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Tachnical  and  Bibliographic  Notaa/Nota*  tachniquaa  at  bibliooraphiquaa 


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I     I   Colourad  maps/ 


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Encra  da  couiaur  (i.a.  autra  qua  blaua  ou  noira) 


I     I   Colourad  platas  and/or  illustrations/ 


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Tight  binding  may  ceuse  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  reliure  serrAe  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  la  long  de  la  marge  IntArieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
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II  se  peut  que  certaines  pages  blanches  ajouttes 
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Commentaires  supplAmentaires: 


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L'Institut  a  microfilm*  la  meilleur  exemplaira 
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sont  indiquAs  ci-desaous. 


|~~|   Colourad  pagea/ 


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Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagAes 

Pages  restored  and/oi 

Pages  restaurtea  at/ou  palliculAes 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxet 
Pagea  dtcoiorAas,  tachatAes  ou  piquAea 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  dAtachAes 

Showthroughy 
Transparence 

Quality  of  prir 

Qualit^  InAgaia  de  I'lmpression 

Includes  supplementary  materii 
Comprend  du  material  suppiimantaira 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Mition  diaponibia 


I — I  Pages  damaged/ 

|~~1  Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 

r~pr  Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 

I     I  Pages  detached/ 

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Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'erreta,  une  pelure, 
etc..  ont  4tA  filmAes  A  nouveau  de  fa^on  A 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  possible. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  film*  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu*  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

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12X                            16X                            20X                            24X                            28X                            32X 

The  iopy  fiim«d  h«r«  has  b««n  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  ganarosity  of: 

Library  of  the  Public 
Archives  of  Canada 


L'exemplaire  filmA  f ut  reproduit  grAce  k  la 
gAnArositA  de: 

La  bibiiothdque  des  Archives 
publiques  du  Canada 


The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  considering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  keeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  Illustrated  Impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  Illustrated  Impression. 


Les  images  suivantes  ont  At6  reproduites  avec  ie 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  at 
de  la  nettetA  de  l'exemplaire  film*,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  orlginaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
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darnlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'illustratlon.  soit  par  ie  second 
plat,  selon  ie  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
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pramlAre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'Impression  ou  d'illustratlon  et  en  terminant  par 
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The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^  (meaning  "CON- 
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whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaftra  sur  la 
dernlAre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  Ie 
ces:  Ie  symbols  — »*  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  Ie 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN". 


IMaps.  plates,  charts,  etc..  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
fllmAs  A  des  taux  de  rAduction  diff Arents. 
Lorsque  Ie  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  11  est  fllmA  A  partir 
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illustrant  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

American  Explorations 


ts 


The  Ice  Zones. 


I?; 


1 


THE  EXPEDITIONS  OF  DeHAVEN,  KANE,  UODOEKS,  HAYES,  HALL,  SCHWATkA, 

AND  DeLONGjTHEUKLIEP  VOYAGES  FOK  THE  JKaNNETTE  BY  THE 

U.  S.  STEAMERS  CORWIN,  UODOEKS,  AND  ALLIANCE ;    THE 

CKUISES  OF  CAPTAINS  LONO  AND  liAYNOU 

OF    THE    MERCHANT    SERVICE: 

WITH   A  liRIEF  NOTICE  OF 

THE  ANTARCTIC  CRUISE   UNDER   LIEUTENANT  WILKES,  1»40, 

AND  OF  THE  LOCATIONS  AND  OBJECTS  OF  THE  U.S. 

SIGNAL  SERVICE  ARCTIC  OBSERVERS. 


^TcpatcD  (!ri)tefls  from  (IDStial  Sources 

BY  PROF.  J.  E.  BOURSE,  U.S.IS^. 

EDITOR   OF    "HALL'S    SECOND    EXPEDITION." 


bosto:n^: 
d.  lothrop  and  company, 

Franklin  Street. 
LONDON  :    TRUBNER  &  CO.,  LUDGATE  HILL. 


.1 


I 


I  ;>   t 


Copi/ri;/lit, 
Ev  D.  Iaithuop  and  Company. 

18H4. 


C.  J.  PETERS  AND  SON, 

ELECTK0TYPRR3  AND  8TEREOT1PEB8, 

US  TllOlf  Stkit. 


i  '\^ 


/  'V 


TO 

THE   AMERICAN    EXPLORERS, 

NAVAL,  MILITARY,  AND  CIVIL, 

AND 

TO  THE  MEMORY  OF  THE  GALLANT  SPIRITS 

WHO  OPENED  UP  THEIR 

PATHWAY. 


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Lady 
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TABLE   OF   CONTENTS. 


im 


im\  ■ 


■1\ 

4 


CHAPTER  I. 

Tlie  Arctic  rcRions,  sea  and  land  —  Comparison  of  the  ice  zones  of  tlie  North  and 
the  South— Tlie  problem  of  the  Pole  and  the  Northwest  Passage— Chief  attempts  for 
its  solution—  Participation  in  these  attempts  by  the  American  Colonies— American 
voyages  resulting  from  the  Franklin  Expedition,  and  their  renewal  in  1850     .    .    . 

CHAPTER  n. 

The  Grinnell  Expeditions  —  Reviving  Arctic  exploration  —  President  Taylor's 
message  to  Congress  transmitting  correspondence  with  Lady  Franklin  —  Resolution 
authorizing  the  expedition  approved,  May  5, 1850— Mr. Grinnell' s  memorial  supported 
by  Clay,  Seward,  and  Pearce,  in  the  Senate  —  Officers  of  the  First  Expedition  —  In- 
structions of  Secretary  Preston  to  UeHaven,  who  sails  from  New  York,  May  22, 1850 

—  Dispatches  from  St.  Johns  and  the  Whale-Ship  Islands  — Dellaven's  report  of 
the  graves  found  at  Beechey  Island  —  lie  arrives  at  Griffith  Island  —  Drifts  north- 
ward—Geographical discoveries  —  Eastward  into  Baffin's  Bay  — Freed  from  the 
ice,  June  10,  1851  —Again  released,  Aug.  18  — Sails  from  Holsteinborg,  Sept.  6  — 
Arrives  at  New  York,  Sept.  30 

CHAPTER  in. 

THE  SECOND   GRINNELL  EXPEDITION,   1853-55. 

The  expedition  designed  by  Kane  —  Contributors  —  Paper  read  before  the  Geo- 
graphical Society  of  New  York — Assistance  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy — Officers  of 
the  "Advance" — Fiskernaes  —  Crossing  Melville  Bay — The  "Advance"  moored  to 
an  iceberg — Rensselaer  Harbor — Provision  depots  for  spring  explorations  —  The 
observatory  —  Daily  ship  life  —  Morton's  reported  Polar  Sea  —  The  brig  fixed  in 
the  ice — Attempt  to  reach  Beechey  Island  —  Nine  of  the  company  leave  for  the 
South ;  their  return  —  Scurvy  —  The  brig  abandoned  —  Boat  and  sledge  journey 
southward  —  Rescue  of  Kane  by  Captain  Hartstene  at  Disco  —  Arrival  at  New  York 

—  Reports  to  the  Department  —  Summary  of  results  —  Appreciation  by  the  British 
Government  —  Publications  of  the  narrative  —  Kane's  failing  health  —  Request  of 
Lady  Franklin  to  him  to  undertake  a  new  expedition  —  He  sails  for  England  — 
Return  voyage  —  Death  —  Funeral  honors  at  Havana,  New  Orleans,  Cincinnati, 
^olumbus,  Baltimore,  and  Philadelphia  —  Kane's  religious  confidence 


pAoa 


n 


41 


i'. 


i-ii 


66 


8  TAHI.K   OK   (;<)NTKNTS. 

(^HAPTEIl   IV. 

EXPLORATIONS  OF   LIEUTENANT  JOHN   KODOERS,  U.S.N. 

Tlip  Exploration  of  llu'  "Vincpiuu's"  a  pari  of  tin;  Unilt'd  States  Kxpodition  uiidor 
Coiimianiler  KinpiKolil  — Appropriation  by  ( 'oii^rt'ss  — Objects  —  .Secretary  Kennedy's 
instructions  —  Sickness  of  ("oniniandcr  Kini^f^old  —  Lieutenant  Kodfjers  succeeds  to 
the  conunand  —  Loss  of  the  "  I'orpoise  " — The  "  Vincennes  "  leaves  Hoii!;  Kong 
for  her  Arctic  cruise  —  Arrives  at  I'clropaulovski  —  Condition  of  the  town  —  Enters 
llerinR  Straits  —  Leaves  a  party  under  Lieutenant  Hrooke  at  (ilassenapp — Habits 
and  customs  of  the  natives  —  The  "Vincennes"  in  the  Arctic  Sea  —  Anchors  in 
latitude  72^' ')'  North— .Sails  over  the  tail  of  Herald  Shoal  and  locates  Herald  Island 

—  Can  see  no  tr.ace  of  Plover  Island  —  Approaches  Wranj^ell  Lantl  —  Returns  to  St. 
Lawrence  Bay  and  (ilassenapp  for  Lieutenant  Brooke's  parly — Arrives  at  Sat>  Fran- 
cisco, Oct.  i;j,  1855 —  Suggestions  for  the  publication  of  the  full  narrative  .     ...       108 

Cn.MTKU   V. 

EXPLORATIONS  OF  DR.  ISAACS  1.   H.WES,    1800-01. 

Design  of  Dr.  Hayes  for  a  new  exploration  suggested  while  on  his  lirst  voyage  with 
Kane —  His  plans  supported  by  the  Smithsonian  and  other  iuftitntions  —  Sails  from 
Boston  with  Sonntag,  July  7,  1800  —  Arrives  off  Priivou  on  the  twenty-fourth  ilay 
out  —  Adds  to  his  ship's  company  and  supplies  at  Upernavik  —  Crosses  Melville  Bay 
in  tifly-tive  hours  to  Cape  York  —  Winters  at  Port  Foulke  —  Observatory  set  up  — 
Observations  made  —  Experiences  of  the  season  —  Death  of  Sonntag,  Hans'  accoiuit 
of  it  —  The  Arctic  night  described — .\ttempts  to  launch  the  boat  on  the  Polar  Sea 

—  Highest  point  reached  —  Belief  in  the  existence  of  the  open  sea  conlirmed  —  Ex- 
l>oriences  of  recent  navigators  compared  with  this — Explorations  and  surveys  made 
on  the  return  voyage  to  the  United  States  —  Purpose  of  a  new  expedition  —  Recep- 
tion of  the  gold  medals  from  abroad —  Volumes  published 132 


CIIAPTKK   V^I. 

THE  ORINNELL  AND  HAVEN  EXPEDITION  OF  C.  F.  HALL— THE 
FIRST  OF  HIS  THREE  VOYAGES,  1800-02. 

Hall's  motives  for  his  lirst  voyage  —  Arctic  study  —  Limited  resources —  Reasons 
for  believing  that  some  of  Franklin's  men  still  lived  —  Circular  endorsed  by  leading 
men  of  Ohio  —  Generous  aid  by  Mr.  Grinneli  and  by  Williams  and  Haven  —  Sails 
from  New  London —  Buries  his  native  companion,  Kud-la-go  —  Visits  Holsteinborg 

—  The  kayaks  —  The  belted  and  the  gothic  icebergs — Arrives  at  Cornelius  Grinneli 
Bay  —  First  impressions  of  the  natives  —  Destruction  of  the  "Rescue"  and  the 
expedition  boat  —  First  acquaintance  with  Ebicrbing  and  Too-koo-li-too  —  Inland 
excursion  —  Ex{)lorations  in  the  spring  following  —  Discovery  thiit  Frobisher 
"Strait"  is  a  b.iy  —  Finding  of  the  Frobisher  relics  confirmed  by  Barrow's  history 

—  Explorations  in  the  spring  and  summer  of  iS&2  —  Notes  of  Eskimo  dress,  habits, 
and  superstitions  —  Return  to  the  United  States  with  the  two  natives  and  their 
child  . 


161 


TAHLK  OK   CONTKNTS. 


CIIArTKK   VII. 

nAIJ;s  SKCOXD  ARCTU;  KXI'KDITION  — UKSIDKXrE  AM()\(J  THK 

ESKIMOS,   IH(M-(M). 

Propamtory  Inbors  —  Paper  bcforo  t\w  AiiHTioan  (JcoKraphiral  Society  —  Pro- 
hiHlxT  relics  sent  to  Loiuloii  and  lo  thf  Sinitlisoiiian  —  IjccIuivh  —  IMaiis  for  lln'  new 
voyanc  —  Sailing  of  tiio  "  Monticcllo"  —  Landin};  at  \Vhal«'  I'oiiit — First  inter- 
course with  the  natives — KcastinK — Ankooting  —  The  Key-low-lik —  'A'alrus  Imnt 

—  New  Year's  Day— Sealing— Hall's  first  prize— (^aptine  of  a  whale— Winter  quar- 
ters at  Fort  lIop<!  —  Hall's  daily  life  —  Auroras  —  Kefraction  and  parlielia  —  Native 
mapping  —  Unsuccessful  advance  westward  —  Franklin  relies  —  Journey  lo  Cape 
Weynton  — Journey  to  Fiu-y  and  Il«!cla  Straits  — A  nuitincer—  Journey  to  Igloolik 

—  Visit  to  King  William  l,and  —  Franklin  relics  —  Capture  of  the  third  whale  — 
Keturu  to  the  United  States 


f*4  ! 


ItW 


(IIAITKIt   VIII. 

HALL'S   V()YA(JK   IN   THK   "  I'OLAUIS." 

Karly  design  to  reach  the  pole  —  Lectures  in  Washington  —  Appropriation  hy 
Congress — The  "  Polaris"  sails  from  New  York  —  Arrives  at  Fiskernaes  —  U.  S.  S. 
"Congress"  at  (Jodhavn  —  Hans  Hendrick  —  Tessuissak  —  North  water  reached 

—  The  "  Polaris"  beset  at  HS'  10'  —(Consultation  —  Drift  to  the  South  —  Anchored 
to  I'rovidcncc  llerg  — Winter  quarters  —  Sledge  journey  —  Deposit  in  the  cairn — 
Hall's  death  and  burial  —  Winter  of  1871-7-'  —  Auroras—  Ileturn  of  the  sun  —  The 
"Polaris"  leaves  the  harbor  —  Drifts  South  — The  separation  —  The  ship  leaking 

—  House  o.i  the  floe  —  Drift  of  the  tloe  party  and  rescut;  —  llelief  siiips  sent  for  the 
"  Polaris"  —  DeLong's  cruise  —  Rescue  of  the  Polaris  party  by  the  "  itavenscraig" 

—  Hall's  memorials  —  Medal  awarded  —  Tablet  put  up  by  the  English  Kxpedition 

—  The  Eskimos  Kud-la-go,  Joe,  Hannah,  Ou-se-gong,  and  Abbot  —  Craves  at 
Groton,  Conn 269 


<! 


CHAPTER   IX. 

SLEDGE  JOURNEY   OF  LIEUTENANT  SCHWATKA,  U.S.A. 

Reports  from  Hudson's  Bay  which  occasioned  the  journey  — Sailing  of  the 
"  Eothen  "  — Arrival  at  Depot  Island  —  The  true  story  of  "  The  Spoon  " — Decision 
to  cross  to  King  William  Land  —  Meeting  with  the  Innuits;  their  stories  —  Visit  lo 
the  cairn  —  Remains  of  Lieutenant  Irving,  R.  N.,  identified  —  Journey  to  Cape 
Felix  —  No  records  found  —  Relics  of  Franklin's  Expedition  —  Camping  out  and 
sledge  journey,  October,  1879,  to  March  4,  1880  —  Return  to  the  United  States  — 
Award  of  a  medal  by  the  Geographical  Society  of  Paris  —  Recognition  of  the  work 
by  Congress — Renewed  search  for  the  records  and  journals  of  the  Franklin  Ex- 
pedition   ;i4o 


:5N 


10 


TABLE  OF  CONTENTS. 


CHAPTEU  X. 

LIEUTENANT  DeLONGS  EXrEUITION  TOWARD  THE  POLE,  187(V-8L 

Tho  t>xpu(lition  DcLong's  own  prompting—  Mr.  liennctt  uiuiertukes  It  — Selection 
of  the  route  —  Theories  —  DcLoiig's  plan  —  The  "  Jcaiuiette  "  eoiiiiuissioned  —  Re- 
port of  the  HoartI  of  Inspection  at  Marc  Isluntl  —  Ofllcers  and  Crew  —  Sailing  from 
San  Francisco —  Arrival  at  St.  Michael's  —  Reports  of  Nordenskiiihl  —  Passing  the 
Straits  —  Attempts  to  reach  Wrangell  and  Herald  Islands  —  Frozen  in  the  Pack, 
Septcmherfl  —  Chlpp  attempts  the  crossing  to  Herald  Island  —  The  "Jcannette" 
drifts  northwest  past  Wrangell  Land  —  Pumping  begun  —  Lieutenant  Dancnhowcr 
disabled — The  return  of  the  sun  —  Experiment  of  the  windmill  pump  —  DeLonR 
abandons  the  theory  of  the  currents  —  ScientlHc  observations  kept  up  —  The  frozen 
summer  —  Auroral  phenomena  —  Continued  drift  northwest  —  Discovery  of  Jean- 
nette  and  Henrietta  Islands  —  The  "  Jeannette  "  crushed  —  Landing  on  the  floe  — 
Discovery  of  liennett  Island;  descrli)tion  of  it  by  Dr.  Ambler  — The  three  boats  — 
Their  separation  —  The  whaleboat  party  land  on  the  Lena  Delta  —  The  first  cutter 
under  DeLong  —  Sufferings  —  DeLong's  last  entries  —  Danenhower's  search  — 
Melville's  search  —  The  dead  ten  found — Their  burial  —  Return  of  Lieutenant 
Dancnhowcr- Search  begun  by  Lieutenant  Ilarber  — Engineer  Melville's  return  — 
Appropriation  to  bring  the  bodies  home  —  Their  expected  arrival 363 


CHAPTEH    XI. 

RELIEF  EXPEDITIONS  FOR  THE  "JEANNETTE  "—THE  TWO  FIRST 

CRUISES  OF  THE  "CORWIN"— THE  CRUISES  OF  THE 

"RODGEltS"  AND  "ALLIANCE." 

The  "  CoBwiN's  "  Fihst  Ckuisk,  1880. 

The  missing  whalers  —  Instructions  of  Secretary  Sherman  for  their  search  and 
for  the  "  Jeannette  "  — The  ship  relilted  at  San  Francisco  —  Arrives  at  Ounalaska, 
June  7th  —  Nipped  in  the  pack  off  Cape  Romanzoff,  June  10th  —  Enters  the  Arctic 
Sea,  28th  —  Last  sight  of  the  "Mount  Wollaston"  and  "Vigilant'' reported  by 
Captain  liauldry— Visit  to  the  cave  dwellers  on  King's  Island  — The  coal  vein  East 
of  Cape  Lisburne  —Within  seven  miles  of  Herald  Island  —  Wrangell  Land  in  sight 
—  Land  seen  to  the  North  —  Return  of  the  "Corwin"  — Captain  Hooper's  notes 
of  the  ice  —  Of  the  habits  and  customs  of  the  natives  on  the  shores  of  the  Arctic 
and  Bering  Sea 428 


Second  Cuuise  of  the  "  Corwin." 

Instructions  of  Secretary  Sherman  —  Officers  —  Sailing  from  San  Francisco  — 
Onalga  Pass  —  Ounalaska  —  St.  Lawrence  Island  —  Reports  of  the  missing  ships  at 
Cape  Serdze-Kamen  —  Arrival  of  the  "  Corwin  "  —  Sledge  party  to  search  tlie  shore 
—  Plover  Bay  —  Return  to  Cape  Serdze  —  Landing  on  Herald  Island  —  Character  of 
the  Island  —  Landing  on  Wrangell  Land  —  Discovery  of  this  land  by  Captains  Long 
and  Raynor,  1867  —Visit  to  Point  Barrow  —  Return  to  San  Francisco  —  Tribute  to 
DeLong 447 


TABLE  OF  CONTKNT8. 


TnK  CmrisK  ok  tiik  *'  KonoBns." 


u 


r*  litions  to  Confltress  for  relief  of  the  "  Jcannctte  "  —  Appropriation  granted  — 
Selection  of  vessel  —  The  "  Mury  and  Helen"  purchased  —  A  Naval  Uoard  con- 
vened for  advice  in  regard  to  the  search  —  Its  oftkers  —  Suggestions  —  Testimony 
of  8hii)-captains  and  exjM'rts — Instructions  to  Lieutenant  It.  M.  IJerry  —  The 
**  Uodgcrs"  equipped  and  eonunisHioned  —  Ilor  ottlcers  —  Arrives  at  St.  Lawrence 
Uay,  at  I'ctropaulovski,  Wrangoll  Land  —  Finds  a  harbor  and  explores  the  island 
—  Kcaches  lat.  7:5^^  44'  —  Arrives  at  Caini  Scrdzo  and  lands  a  party  to  search  for  the 
missing  crews  —  The  "  Hodgers  "  burned  —  Master  Putnam  lost  on  the  ice  —  Lieu- 
tenant Berry  searches  the  coast  —  Joins  Engineer  Melville  at  Yakutsk  —  Learns  the 
orders  to  Lieutenant  Ilarber  and  returns  home 473 

The  CiirisE  of  tiik  U.  S.  Steamku  "  Alliance,"  June  16  to  Oct.  11,  1881. 

Fitting  out  of  the  "Alliance  " — Instructions  to  Commander  Cooper  and  to  Com- 
mander VVadlelgli  —  Arrival  at  Hcykiavik  —  Description  of  the  "  Jeannette  "  circu- 
lated—  The  harbor  of  Ilammerfest,  Norway  —  Green  Uay,  Spltzbergen  —  Tidal 
marks  established  —  Cruise  in  lat.  7U° — The  ico  barrier  —  lieturn  to  the  United 
States  under  orders 486 


CHAPTER  XII. 

THE  ANTARCTIC  CRUISE  OF  LIEUTENANT  (LATE  ADMIRAL) 
CHARLES  WILKES,  U.  S.N.,  1830-40. 

The  Antarctic  region  a  terra  incor/nita  —  Object  of  Its  explorations  compared 
with  explorations  in  the  Arctic  —  National  aid  required  —  Earliest  American  dis- 
covery—  Foreign  explorations,  private  and  national — Wilkes'  cruise  a  part  of  the 
plans  of  the  exploring  expedition  of  18;J8-42  —  Organization  of  the  squadron  and  its 
route  —  First  cruise  towards  Cook's  Nc-plus-uUra  — Cruise  along  the  ley  barrier — 
Reported  discovery  of  the  continent — Award  of  the  gold  medal  by  Rcyal  Geographi- 
cal Society,  London  —  Discoveries  of  Ross  —  Scientific  results  —  Collections  in  the 
National  Museum,  Washington 489 


CHAPTER   XIII. 

SUMMARY  OF  THE  EXPEDITION,  BENEFICIAL  RESULTS. 

The  American  Arctic  Expeditions  —  Highest  points  reached  —  Value  of  Arctic 
explorations  endorsed  by  Weyprecht,  Maury,  Henry,  IJache,  Barrow,  and  Osbom 
—  Meteorological  stations  in  the  ice  zones  —  Their  purpose  distinct  from  the  Polar 
problem  —  Lieutenant  Weyprecht's  proposition  —  Stations  under  the  International 
Commission  recommended  by  Professor  Henry  —  Preliminary  voyage  of  the  "  Flor- 
ence"—  Sherman's  and  Kiimlien's  reports  — Signal  Service  Station  at  Lady  Frank- 
lin Bay  —  Unsuccessful  attempts  for  relief — Signal  Service  Station  near  Point 
Barrow  —  Preliminary  reports  —  Geographical  discovery  —  Benefits  to  the  whale 
fisheries  —  Small  number  of  lives  lost  in  the  expeditions  —  Further  explorations  .    .      525 


ii;, 


iV 


■j' 


ii 


'Mlpl 


Ivili! 


ERRATA. 


Page  330.    Title  of  Cut.    For  "Tyson's  crew  sighting  the  * Ravenscraig '  off  Labra- 
dor," read  "  Biidingtou's  cre>,  sighting  the  '  Ravenscraig.'  " 
Page  3r)3,  line  20.     For  "  1881 "  read  1818. 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTRATIONS. 


%   ! 


CiKCUMPOLAK  Map Pocket. 

Map  op  Alaska  and  the  Strait Paga    470,471 


W&aoti  lEngrabtngd. 


Paok 

In  the  Pack Frontispiece. 

Scaling  an  Iceberg 19 

Barometei'  of  Franklin's  Expedition,  38 

The  Crow's  Nest 55 

The  Three  Graves 58 

Portrait  of  Kane*  (to/ace)      ...  65 

Harbor  of  St.  Johns 69 

An  Arctic  Moonlight  Scene  (to  face)  87 

Godhavn 90 

The  Kane  Medal 105 

Portrait  of   Admiral    Rodgers   (to 

face) 108 

Portrait  of  Dr.  Hayes*  (to  face)  .     .  132 

Belted  Iceberg 134 

Upernavik 135 

Foiilke  Fiord 143 

The  Best  Part  of  a  Sledge  Journey,  140 
Unfurling  the  Flagij  ("Tlie  Open 

Polar  Sea,"  J  R.  Osgood  &  Co.),  148 

A  Snow  Village 156 

Chart  of  Smith  Sound  ("The  Open 

Polar  Sea,"  J.  11.  Osgood  &  Co.),  159 

Vignette  of  Sir  John  Franklin    .    .  164 

Governor  Elborg  in  his  Oomiak  169 


Paob 

170 


Eskimo  Woman  and  Ciiild     .     . 

Kyak  Somerset 171 

Gothic  Iceberg      .......  172 

Loss  of  the  "  Rescue  " 175 

Nik-u-jar,  the  Boat  Steerer    .    .    .  170 

Eskimo  Dog 177 

Eskimo  Lamp 178 

Storm  Bound 179 

Passing  through  Lupton  Channel  .  183 

Indian  Summer  Village     ....  184 

One  of  Frobisher's  "  Gold  Mines,"  185 

Eskimo  and  Seal  Dog 192 

Seal  Hole  anil  Igloo  ....      194,  195 

Too-koo-litoo,  Hall,  and  Ebierbing,  197 

Eskimo  Lamp 198 

Sir  Martin  Frobisher 201 

Frobisher  Bay  and  Grinnell  Glacier  207 

Polar  Bear  of  Hudson  Strait  ...  208 

Snow  Partridges 212 

Hall's  First  Igloo,  Grourd-plan,    213,  214 

Game  of  Cup  and  Ball 216 

Key-low-tik  and  Ken-toon ....  217 

Playing  the  Koy-low-tik    ....  219 

Sek-koons 220 


•  From  "  The  Jeauiiette,"  by  Capt.  Perry.    Kewinan  &  Coburn  Publishlug  Company. 


14 


LIST   OF   ILLUSTKATFONS. 


A  Walrus-IIunt 

A  Walnis  Ilciul 

Grouiul-plan   of  New  Year's  Day 

Igloo 

Ground-plan  of  Igloo   Built  on  a 

.Ioiirn«ry 

Arrowtar . 

Ebierhinj;  Going  out  Sealinj;      .     . 

Capturing  a  Wliale 

Too-koo-litoo  (Hannah)  .... 
Ar-too-a  l>rowno(J  in  his  Kia      .     . 

Iniuiit  Ilcad-Uniarnent 

Now- Yarn  Harbor 

Aurora  Sketchotl  by  Hall  .... 
Papa'.s  Sketch  of  Tond  IJ.iy     .     .     . 

Franklin  llelics '_'47, 

IJone-Charms  and  Knife     .... 

The  Tenting- Place 

Monument  and  Coast-LirK;     .     .     . 

Hair.s  lioat-Log 

Snow  Village 

Setting    out     for     King    Willia 

Land 

Hair.s  Tablet-Covers      .... 

Ivory  Kniv(!s 

Pago  of  Hall's  Note-Book  .  .  .  . 
Sir  John  Franklin's  Desk  .... 
Hannah's  Musk-()x  and  Deer  Horns, 

Fiskernaes 

liiehtenfels 

Tessnissak,  or  Tessiussak  .... 

Shooting  Walrus 

"Polaris"    Passing    Fitz-Clarenc(! 

Ro(;k 

Working  through  the  loo  .... 
"  Polaris  "  in  Thank-God  Il.irJior  . 
Landing  Stores  on  the  Ic((       .     . 

Shooting  a  Musk-Ox 

The  Cairn 

Funeral  of  Captain  Hall  .... 
The  "  Polaris  "  Adrift 


223 
224 

22G 

227 
228 
2.'5() 
2;}3 
2'M 
237 
2;J8 
2.19 
211 
212 
248 

2r,i 

2,J4 
2ri5 
2r>7 
2rj8 


0 


.1 
202 
2(;.'5 
2(',C, 
208 
272 
274 
277 
279 

281 
283 
285 
287 
290 
291 
299 
301 


.328 
330 
3.33 
338 
342 

31.'i 
350 


Fastening  to  the  Berg 303 

Mock  Moons .309 

"  Polaris  "  rounding  tlus  Berg     .     .     311 

Boat  Camp 313 

House  on  the  Floe 314 

Before  Stsparation ^ITi 

The  Separation 317 

Polaris  House,  Life-Boat  Cave   .     .     319 
Landing  on    Northumberland    Isl- 
and    

Sijrhting  the  "  Bavenscraig"       .     . 
Hall's  Medal  from  Paris     .... 

Hall's  Grave 

Ou-se-gong  and  Kud-lui)-[)a-nnme  . 

Lieut(!nant  Schwatka  ("  Sehwalka's 

S(!arch,"  Scribner's  Son.s),  to  Jure 

Franklin's  Spof)ri 

The  March  SoMlbward  ("Schwatka's 
Search,"  Scribncr'-  Sons)    .     .     . 

Cold  Weather 

Eskimo  Needle-Case 

Lieut(!nant-Conimandcr    DeLong,* 

{I  o  face.) 

Lieutenant  Chi])p* 

(iieutenant  Danenhower*  .... 

Engineer  Melville* 

Siu'geon  Aiiililer* 

An  Arctic  Boat  Journtiy     .... 

The  D(!lta 

TheCro.ss* '11.5 

The  Tomb* 117 

The  "Corwin  "  in  a  Nip    ....      131 

II(!rald  Island 435 

Oomiak 445 

Ar(;ti<!  I'avine 454 

Wrangell  Island    .     , 405 

Map  of  Wrangell  Island     ....     479 
The    Penguins   ("Wood's    Natural 

History,"  Porter  &  Coates)      .     .     504 
The  Albatross   ("Wood's    Natural 
History,"  Porter  &  Coates)     .     .    607 


355 
357 
302 

303 
374 
370 
379 
382 
404 
409 


•  From  "  Tlie  .Tcannetle,"'  by  Capt.  I'erry.     Ncwiiiun  &  Cuburn  I'ublishlug  Company. 


Tins  volniiic  iini[)osrs  to  accredit  the  work  of  American  explorers  in  a  region  toward 
wliich  tlie  worl<l  still  looks  with  intensst  and  unsatisfied  inquiry.  Arctic  exploration  will 
not  soon  be  abandoned.  IIowev(!r  uuich,  in  this  a.i;e  of  unprecedented  advance  in  the 
more  directly  practical,  it  may  mtc.m  to  some;  to  (hsservt;  place  with  the  visionary  only,  it 
confessedly  (smbraces  problems  of  hifjh  value.  The  ,t,'eographer  would  gladly  exchange!  his 
dotted  and  broken  lines  for  dflinit(!  i)oiuiilari(!s;  the  ethnologist  and  the  Christian  have 
rpiestions  to  ask  of  this  region  bearing  on  the  imity  and  the  development  of  the  race;  and 
the  scientist  awaits  from  the  sea  of  the  far-off  North,  revelations  tlie  key  to  which  Nature 
has  as  yet  hidden  from  him. 

A  third  of  a  ccjntury  has  passed  since  history  cordially  admitted  to  her  domain  tlie 
records  of  I)e  Haven  and  Kane;  Hayes  and  Hall  gave  to  her  their  work  of  the  succeeding 
decade;  our  younger  officers  —  iJe  Long,  Chipp,  and  their  associates  —  have  elosecl  with 
their  lives  the  latest  Arctic  records. 

The  volum<!S  from  Kane's  ()en  cannot  he  founil  on  the  slx^lves  of  a  large  number  of  our 
increasing  libraries,  while  the  publications  of  tlie  Uniti^d  .Stales  (iovernnu^nt,  in  ollicial 
form,  are  too  bulky  for  the  convenience  of  the  general  reader.  It  is  the  desir,'n  of  the 
publishers  of  the  vohnne  now  offered,  to  bring  togeih(!r  within  the  reach,  especially  of  the 
young,  th(!  lal)ors  of  each  American  explorer,  and  to  tiiis  desire  the  mosi  cordial  r"sponse 
is  ma<le  from  a  re-study  of  these  labors,  each  o"  which  reflects  honor  upon  our  country. 
The  chapters  which  follow  embrace  brifif  notices  of  the  expedition  for  the  Northwest  pas- 
sage under  .Sir  John  Franklin,  the  voyages  of  Li(Mit,enant  I).;  Haven,  and  of  Dr.  Kan(!,  of 
the  late  Admiral  I'odgers.  Dr.  Hayes,  the  three  expeditions  of  ('.  F.  Hall,  the.  nsmarkable 
sledge  journey  of  three  thousand  miles  by  Lieutenant  Schwatka,  U.S.A.,  the  cruis*;  and 
loss  of  the  "  Jeannette,"  and  th(!  relief  expeditions  sent  out  for  Do.  liOng  by  the  Treasury 
Department  under  Captain  Hooper,  and  by  the  Navy  Department  under  Lieutenant  JJerry. 
To  these  is  added  a  notice  of  the  first  expedition  sent  out  by  the  United  States  for  scitsn- 
tific  purposes,  that  of  lH;{,S-42  under  Lieutenant  (late  Admiral)  Wilkes;  the  volume  closes 
with  a  statement  of  the  positions  and  objects  of  the  Arctic  Observers  under  the  U.  S. 

Signal  Service. 

J.  E.  N. 


Wahminoton,  Dec.  1,  1883. 


1  ■  'r 


THE  1 
ZON 
POL 
SOLI 
COL 
EXP 

r 

Alaskf 
in  the 
paralle 
produc 
Pole,  1 
re  marl 
Arc 
storm}? 
surrou 
receivi 
qiiarte 
the  Wi 
yet,  sh 
ice;  be 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS 


IN 


THE    ICE   ZONES. 


I  ';4^ 


CHAPTER    I. 

THE  AHCTIC  REGIONS,  SEA  AND  LAND. — COMPARISON  OF  THE  ICE 
ZONES  OF  THE  NORTH  AND  THE  SOUTH. —  THE  PROBLEM  OF  THE 
POLE  AND  THE  NORTHWEST  PASSAGE.  —  CHIEF  ATTEMl'TS  FOR  ITS 
SOLUTION.  —  PARTICIPATION  IN  THESE  ATTEMPTS  BV  THE  AMERICAN 
COLONIES.  —  AMERICAN  VOYAGES  RESULTING  FROM  THE  FUANIvLIN 
EXPEDITION,   AND  THEIR    RENEWAL   IN   1850. 

THE  field  of  Arctic  exploration  includes  a  section  of  the  earth's 
surface  not  strictly  coincident  with  the  Arctic  circle  of  the  geog- 
raphers. Countries  such  as  South  Greenland,  Labrador,  or 
Alaska,  in  the  western  hemisphere,  or  the  region  around  Lake  Baikal 
in  the  eastern,  though  situated  as  low  as  the  sixtieth,  or  even  the  liftieth 
parallel  of  north  latitude,  have  a  decidedly  Arctic  climate,  with  its 
products;  while  others,  as  the  coast  of  Norway,  lying  far  nearer  the 
Pole,  but  under  specially  favorable  inlluences,  enjoy  in  midwinter  a 
remarkably  mild  temperature. 

Arctic  exploration  has  of  necessity  employed  itself  both  upon  the 
stormy  sea  and  upon  the  snow  and  ice-bound  land.  The  great  oceai 
surrounding  the  Pole  drains  the  northern  slopes  of  three  continents, 
receiving  the  waters  of  an  estimated  area  of  more  than  four  and  a 
quarter  millions  of  square  miles,  and  its  river  systems  exceed  those  of 
the  West  Atlantic  coast.  Within  this  great  basin  the  Pole  itself  is,  as 
yet,  shut  out  from  access  by  an  investing  zone  of  probably  permanent 
ice ;  beyond  this  zone,  theory  still  places  an  open  sea. 

17 


'ri. 


, 


air 


•lit  ; 


,i  if 


IH 


AMKItlCAN    KNI'LoltATlnNS    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZONlvS. 


I 


Til'  iiiMliscovi'icd  poliir  ri'^inii  is  limited,  at  most  points  on  the 
American  and  Kunqiean  sides,  l»y  about  the  eighty-second  parallel;  on 
the  north  of  Asia  tlie  limit  is  as  low  as  the  seventy-fourth  degree.  T(» 
the  inner  basin  there  arc  l)Mt  tliiee  possible  ways  of  entrance :  the 
estuaries  of  Hudson's  and  IJal'lin  IJays,  north  of  America;  the  space 
between  (Jrceidand  and  Norway,  north  of  Europe;  and  liehring's 
Straits,  between  America  and  Eastern  Ivussia. 

The  lands  of  tlie  Arctic  region  are  naturally  divided  into  two  well- 
marked  zones,  —  the  forests  and  the  treeless  wastes.     In  America  the 

hiltcr  arc  the  well-known  "barrens,"  or  "barren  grounds,'*  which  yield 
a  scanty  subsistence  to  the  suffering  natives,  and  were  traversed 
with  so  much  luirdshi[)  by  Franklin  and  by  those  who  sought  for  him 
by  land  in  tlie  explorations  hereafter  to  be  noted.  In  the  eastern  con- 
tinent they  bi'ar  the  name  of  the  "tundra,"'  often  showing  nothing 
UKU'e  than  boundless  morasses  (..•  aiid  wastes,  tracked  by  the  feet  of 
^Siberian  exiles  and  arctic  explorers,  including  the  perishing  ones  from 
the  "  Jeannettc  "  and  its  suivivors  in  their  search  for  the  lost.  Over 
such  scenes  many  weary  sledge-journeys  have  been  nuide,  to  the  extent 
of  more  thaji  a  thousand  miles  each.  A  narrative  ol'  Arctic  exploration 
leads,  therefore,  not  only  to  the  well-furnishcd  ship,  or  even  to  her 
deck  when  housed  for  the  winter  storms,  but  to  perilous  journeys  over 
tracks  at  tinu'S  scarcely  distinguishable  by  the  most  cx[)erienccd  ;  over 
icc-lloes  and  lissurcs.  n'(|uiring  the  scaling  of  the  rough  and  dizzy 
crests  of  the  bergs.  The  cliici'  scene  of  Arctic  exploration,  however, 
is  upon  the  icnipcstiu»us  sea.  with  its  cl(»sing  ni])s,  and,  at  times,  (M|ually 
dangerous  and  sudden  openings  on  the  scanuin.  The  mysterituis  waters 
hold  a  fascination  possesseci  by  no  other  region,  creating  and  keeping 
U{t  an  indesciibable  longing  for  adventure,  in  which  daring  spirits  liave 
found  all  that  makes  traxcl  exciting. 

The  ice  /.ones  of  the  south  [U'csent  no  such  allurements.  No 
continents  there  ap])i'oaeli  the  ocean's  shore,  while  a  glance  at  the 
Wi  lid's  map  shows,  in  the  nortli,  a  i)reponderam'(>  of  land,  s|)read- 
inu  out  in  such  almost  unbi'okcn  continuity  as  to  tempt  some  to 
•ii"    theory    111, It     nearer    llic     I'olc    the   hnid    masses  arc   M'jaraled   bv 


ARCTIC    AM)    ANTAI.'TIC    KK(iH)NS   COMrAIU:!). 


19 


a  (;liaiii  of  isliinds  only.  Tliis  essontial  (lirfercuee  in  tlie  laiul  sur- 
faces accouiits  ill  part  for  the  rxtrcnic  (lil'fcrence  in  llic  sumnicr  teiu- 
peratures  of  the  two  zones.  Tho  ice  barrier  of  the  south  lias  lu'cn  but 
once  jtenet rated  beyond  the  seventy-eighth  degree.  And  whiU',  even 
in  Sjtit/.bergcn,  vegetation  aseends  the  mountain  slopes  to  a  iieight   of 


pi- 


tfo 


■  ■  t 


SCALLNG   AiS    iCEliEUG. 

Kroin  (.'aptiin  ll^U's  "Arctic  lUscirvlieiji"  publiahcd  L)>  Uaritir  \  llru^. 


three  thousand  feet,  in  every  land  within  or  near  the  .Vntarctic  cirele 
ihu  snow  line  descends  to  the  waters  edge.  Not  even  a  moss  or  a 
lichen  has  been  observed  beyoiKJ  south  latitude  (!4^  12'.  In  S[>itz- 
hergen  the  thermonu'ter  has  risen  to  08.^^  but  during  the  summer 
months  s[>ent  by  Sir  .James  Uoss  in  the  Antarctic,  tln'  temperature  of 
the  air  never  once  exceeded  41°  .V.  Xo  hunters  there,  like  the  Eski- 
mos, chase  the  seal  ov  the  walrus:  no  h(M'dsmen,  like  the  La])ps,  follow 
the  reindeer  to  the  ocean's  edge;  not  a  single  land  ([uadru[)ed  exists 
beyond  ;")(}'  :  all  is  one  di'cary,  uninhabital)le  waste.  In  the  nculh, 
coasts  and  valleys  at  equal  distances  from  the  Cipiator  are  green  with 
vegetation  ;  in  the  south  they  are  wastes  of  ice  and  snow. 

Tlie  spread  of  the  northern  lands  ])oints  us.  as  has  been  said,  chietiy 


1-1 


li:  j 


I     , 


Ml 


20 


AMEKICAN    EXI'LOUATIONS   IN    THIO    ICK  ZONES. 


to  tlie  causes  of  this  difforence.  The  philns  of  Siberia  and  of  Northern 
Aineriea,  warmed  by  the  sunuuer's  sun,  become  centres  of  radiatinj^ 
heat;  but  the  Antarctic  lands,  of  small  extent,  isolated  in  the  midst  of 
frigid  waters,  and  chilled  by  the  cold  sea-winds,  act  as  constant  refrige- 
rators. In  the  north,  icebergs  are  found  iu  a  few  mountainous  coun- 
tries only ;  upon  Antarctic  lands  they  are  more  continuous,  tower 
much  higher,  and  their  vast  fragments  perpetually  maintain  the  low 
temperatures  of  the  sea,  detached  bergs  luiving  been  met  with  as  near 
the  equator  as  the  mouth  of  the  La  Plata.  In  the  latter  regions  n(» 
traces  of  warm  currents  have  been  observed  beyond  the  fifty-fifth 
degree  of  south  latitude ;  but  in  the  north  the  well-known  gulf  stream 
carries  its  powerful  influence  as  far  as  Norway,  Spitzbergen,  and  Nova 
Zembla,  thus  making  the  northern  zone,  by  comparison,  an  attractive 
scene  of  exploration  and  adventure.* 

Arctic  exploration  may  be  said  to  have  had  at  first  but  one  purpose  : 
to  reach  the  Pole,  and  cross  it  from  continent  to  continent;  and  this, 
indeed,  has  been  the  chief  element  in  the  polar  problem  for  the  last 
threi  and  a  half  centuries.  It  is  the  purpose  of  this  volume  to  refer 
briefly  to  the  events  giving  rise  to  this  problem,  to  the  persistent  efforts 
for  its  solution,  and  to  the  beneficial  results  secured  by  these  seemingly 
useless  labors.  The  Pole  has  not  been  reached,  and  may  not  be,  and 
the  short,  navigabh;  route  is  demonstrably  impracticable.  But  the 
incidental  results  of  exploration  have  far  more  than  compensated  for 
every  expenditure  of  thought  and  money,  for  all  of  exposure  and  dis- 
appointment. For  lessons  in  i»atience,  self-sacrifice,  and  heroic  en- 
durance, few  clearer  exam[)les  can  be  drawn  from  the  world's  history 
than  those  to  be  found  in  the  baffled  attempts  to  reach  the  Pole.  And 
yet  the  world  has  learned  from  these,  that  Providence,  which  shapes 
the  destinies  of  men  and  nations,  ordains  that  while  men  may  fail  to 


*  The  remarkable  plienomenon  of  the  ijreat  difference  between  the  two  zones  is  ac- 
counted for  by  the  meteorologist.  :Mr.  froll.  on  the  ground  that,  in  long  lapses  of  time, 
their  climates  alternate,  through  the  change  in  the  eccentricity  of  the  earth's  orbit,  in 
combination  with  the  precession  of  the  eciuinoxes.  In  both  regions  extensive  fossil  re- 
mains prove  that  a  tropical  or  semi-tropical  climate  formerly  existed.  Our  age  is  that  of 
excess  of  cold  in  the  Antarctic  zone. 


EARLY    SKAUCH    FOK    A    PASSACJK    T< »   (^ATMAV. 


21 


attain  their  first  and  i)orliai)s  less  valuahle  aims,  a  larger  reward  often 
awaits  their  unrelinciuished  efforts. 

The  problem  of  the  Pole  and  the  northern  passaj^e  had  its  birth  at 
the  great  era  of  the  discovery  of  America  and  of  the  new  way  to  the 
Indies  by  the  Cape  of  (Jood  Hope;  discoveries  which  snatched  mari- 
time commerce  from  its  old  seat  in  the  Mediterranean  and  gave  to  the 
Si)aniards  and  the  Portuguese  its  almost  exclusive  control.  These 
nations  claimed  not  only  the  newly-dis('(»vered  countries,  but  the  right 
to  the  exclusive  navigation  of  the  ocean  between  them;  and  as  the 
attempt  by  any  other  nation  to  enter  those  seas  involved  a  war  with 
either,  or  both,  Spanish  and  Portuguese,  the  northern  maritime  nations 
began  seriously  to  think  of  some  shorter  passages  to  the  Indies  which 
would  give  them  commercial  superiority.  For  the  East,  as  the  region 
of  barbaric  pearl  and  gold,  ever  loomed  up  before  the  mind  as  the 
hmd  of  unimagined  riches,  and  a  readier  j)assag(»  to  it,  as  a  feat  of 
daring  but  of  sure  renown. 

England  led  the  way.  "Having  then  no  anticipation  of  becoming 
the  sovereign  of  Ilindostan,  she  hoped  for  a  peaceful  intercourse  by 
a  nearer  avenue  to  southern  Asia."  Of  this  the  old  navigator, 
Sebastian  Cabot,  said,  "When  the  news  Mas  brought  that  Don 
Christoval  Colon  had  discovered  the  coasts  of  India,  by  his  fame 
and  report,  there  increaseth  in  my  heart  a  great  tianie  of  desire  to 
attempt  some  notable  thing ;  and  understanding  by  reason  of  the 
sphere  (globe)  that  if  I  should  sail  by  way  of  the  northwest  I 
should  by  a  shorter  tract  come  into  India,  I  thereupon  caused  the 
king  to  be  advertised  of  my  device."'  At  the  later  date  of  loGO,  Martin 
Frobisher,  "being  persuaded  of  a  new  and  nearer  passage  to  ('ataya 
(Cathay)  than  by  C.ipo  d'buona  Speranza,  which  the  Portng.dles  yeerly 
use,  began  first  v/ith  himselfe  to  devise,  and  then  wlih  his  friendes  to 
conferre,  and  layde  a  playne  platte  inito  them,  taat  that  voyage  was 
not  oidy  possible  by  the  northwest,  but  also,  as  he  coulde  prove,  easie 
to  be  performed."  It  was  "the  only  thing  left  undone  in  the  world 
whereby  a  notable  mind  might  be  made  famous  and  fortunate." 

The  voyages  of  the  Cabots  established  the  well-known  right  of 
England  to  the  possession  of  the  North  American  coast,  securing  for 


■I'!;; 


^1  .;! 


i,)i: 


oo 


AAIEKICAN    I:X1'I.()1:ATH>NS    in    TIIK    ICK   ZONKS. 


«t 


(lio   cmiiiiipf  j^cnuratioiis   tluiir  j^rcut  homo  til"   rrucdum,  wliilo  French 
cxploraliiMi    iiiidcr    V'erniz/iiiii    iiml    Curticr   secured   u  like  cluiiii  lor 


France  on   llie  reiiitdis  north  oi'  the  St.  I.ii\vi'eni;e 


a  claiui  afterward 


happily  ahsoihed  nnih'r  the  domain  of  ICnylish  hiw.     A   (piarter  of  a 
centnrv  alk-r  ('al)ol*s  day,  thice  aitcmj)ts  lor  the  passage  of  the  north- 


\\'( 


8t  hi 


ivin<r  heen 


tiied 


in  vain,  a  nortlieast  conrsu 


to  A 


sia  was  sonylit 


hy  the  licet  (d'  WiUojgldn-  and  Chancclloi',  which  was  to  reach  Catliay 
l>v  donltling  the  noithern  [»romontory  of  l^apland.  The  aihnirals  fate 
was  tragical.  In  liis  hopi'(l-f(ir  shelter  in  a  La|tland  harhor  he  was 
found  dead  in  his  cahin,  and  his  ship's  company  ''dead   in  various  parts 


() 


f  ll 


le  vessc 


alone  or  ni  uroui)S. 


IJut  ids  second  i>lllicci',  C'hanuellor, 


lirst  for  the   I'^nglish,  enti-red  the  harhor  of   Arcliangel.     It  was  "'the 
discovery  (d'  IJnssia,""  or  as  a  Spanish  wiiter  says,  "a  discovery  of  Xc 


w 


Indies, — the  connnenc<>ment  of  maritime  commerce  lietwcen  i^ngland 
and  Ivussia,  then  (»ne  *>(  the  oldest  and  least  nn.\c(l  nations  in  I^nrope, 
iiui  which  was  awakening  fro)u  a  long  lethargy  to  emerge  into  p(»litieal 
distinction." 

The  vovages  of  I)a\is  <  l.")S.")-S(i ),  on   tju'  third  of  which,  when   1 


n 


lat. 


<•> 


he  was  "  ni  a  >''icat   sea   Ircc   Irom   ice,  neither  was  there  anv 


ici'  toward  the  north,  hut  a  sea  iVee,  large,  aii'!  very  salt  ano  hhu.',  and 
of  unsearchahlc  depth,"  added  nothing  to  the  discovery  of  the  passage 
beyond  the  renewed  conxiction  ol'  that  ilay  that  the  way  toward  the 
north  was  without  impediment.  I'hc  same  remark  may  be  ai>plied  to 
the  vovages  id"  Uarent/.  and  Hudson  and  J>aflin:  the  two  last  being  nuide 
in  the  lirst  (piartcr  of  the  century  following.  Vet  the  ex[)eriences  of 
the  sturdy  navigators  on  the  northern  Asiatic  coast,  and  the  opi'uing 
up  on  the  north  of  America  of  the  great  inland  sea  and  of  the  estuaries, 
Smith's,  Lancaster,  and  Whale  Sounds,  were  further  induirincnts  lor 
prosecuting  the  search. 

Outside  of  tlio  direct  object  named.  large  bcuclicial  icsults  were 
secuicd.  'I'he  whale  lisherics  became  the  great  object  for  which  several 
natio'.is  comic'.cd;  and  the  charts  of  Hallin  and  the  voyages  cd'  Hudson 


led  the  w 


w 


II  this  for  the  Dutch,  and  aficrwartl  for  the  Fnuiish  mer- 


chant.    But  from  this  date  little  oi'  Arctic  exi)loration  for  the  North- 
west passage  was  entered  ni)on  for  a  i-entury. 


FIltST    i.KPOUTKn    AMKIMCAN    VOVAOKS. 


'S.\ 


The  entorpriso  first  attracted  ntyal  attention  in  the  third  ([uarter  ol'the 
ei^hleenth  ccnlnrv;  (Jeorpfe  III.,  at  the  instance  of  tlic  IJuyal  Society 
of  the  Adminilty,  sciidinir  out  on  expedition  un(h>r  Captain  I'iiipps  and 
titward  the  regions  nmth  ot  Spit/.l>cr<;'en.  In  his  ".loninal  of  a  \'oy- 
iige  to  the  Ncnth  i'oh',"'  tht?  eaptain  entered  the  sea  "dnrin;^  a  snni- 
nier  allordinjjf  th(!  I'nUest  exaniiiuition ;  hnl  (lie  Wiill  of  ice  between 
hititn(h's  (SI)'  iind  ML'  showed  for  more  tlian  twenty  (h-j^recs  not  (lie 
Mnalh'st  ap[)earanee  (»!'  any  oi)enin_i;'."  In  tills  expedition,  Nelson,  then 
hilt  lii'teen  yeais  of  ii^'e.  e\iril)ltc<l  a  luiucry  and  cool  c((iira;^e  proplietie 
tif  his  sul)se(inent  career. 

Three  years  later,  in  July,  1770,  Captain  Cook  salh^d  lor  the  Sontli 
Sea  to  make  discoveries  in  the  I'aeillc,  and  to  relnrn  to  I'^ni^land,  as  he 
ho[ied,  hy  IJehrinj^'s  Strait.  For,  although  the  I'onte  (o  India  hy  tho 
Cape  and  the  monopoly  <d'  commerce  once  enjoyed  hy  Spain  and 
INntn^al  had  long  before  fallen  into  I'higlish  hainls,  tlie  northern  jias- 
sa,L>e  was  still  songht,  as  jn'omising  a  shorter  and  less  ex|)ensive  nnite; 
ami  an  act  was  jtassed  by  parliament  offering-  X-0,000  to  any  vessel 
which  shonld  make  the  i)assage  from  continent  to  continent  in  either 
direction.  Cook's  ships  were  wholly  nnlitte  1  to  contend  with  northern 
ice.  He  discovered  the  Sandwich  Islands  and  explored  J5(^hring's  Strait, 
but  was  speedily  driven  back  by  the  ice  aftm-  reachini;'  Icy  Cai)e.  Fr<»m 
this  date  Arctic  (exploration,  with  the  ex(te]>tion  of  the  discoveries  of 
Mackenzie  ami  llearne  by  land,  the  laudable  efforts  of  the  Anu-rican 
eohuiists,  and  the  attempts  of  the  Russians  to  double  their  northern 
coasts,  was  again  nearly  sus[)ended. 

It  is  t(»  the  credit  of  the  provinces  of  Virgiida  and  Pennsylvania, 
and  possibly  of  Khode  Island  and  (d'  Massachussetts  at  a  still  earlier 
date,  that  the  enterprise  was  not  lorgotten.  The  lirst  note  of  these 
efl'orts  here  given  does  not  belong  to  tho  region  of  authentic  history, 
but  is  referred  to  as  exhibiting  indications  of  at  least  a  more  than 
l)robable  knowledge  of  and  sym[)athy  with  the  object.  The  exix'di- 
tions  of  the  middle  of  the  eighteenth  century  show  that  the  colonies, 
even  in  their  disjointed  and  feeble  state,  and  in  advance  (»f  the  royal 
countenance  of  the  undertaking,  contributed  their  full  share  to  it.  It 
will  be  remembered  that   the   Lon(h)n    Company,  as   early   as   1007, 


WKi 


'!  t  ■  ■ 
.  '■("■■- 

i 

FT     f^i 

u 


AMKRICAN    KXIM-OUATIONH    IN   TIIK   ICK  ZONES. 


iiistnictud  tin;  Virginia  colonists  to  H(;oi<  a  coniniunioition  with  tlie 
South  Sea,  and  the  fiiiMous  (/aptuin  John  Smith  was  taken  [)ri8()ner  in 
liiH  ascent  of  the  Cliickahoniiny  for  that  object.  It  was  clearly  the 
jturpose  of  the  ccdonists  to  find  a  water  route  to  Asia  if  possible. 

In  the  letter  which  follows  these  notices,  the  odd  reference  to  "the 
j)nrson  "  may  perha|)s  be  accounted  for  i)y  remendterinj^  the  ohl  antag- 
onisms between  the  (^luiker  and  the  ollicers  ol"  the  Church  of  England. 


KAKLV   AMKlilCAN    VnVACiKS. 

I.   A  VoYAfJK  Kki'outioi)  to  havk  ukkn  madk  from  Boston  in 
1639.  —  Ellis,  in  his  ''Voyage  of  the  Dobbs  and  California"  says:  — 

"A  Mr.  (Jroiseleiz,  an  inhabitant  of  Canada,  a  bold  and  enterprising 
man,  and  one  who  had  travelled  much  in  those  parts,  reached  the  coasts 
of  Hudson's  liay  from  tlie  French  settlements.  On  his  return  he  pre- 
viiiled  on  his  countrymen  to  fit  out  a  bark  for  perfecting  the  discovery 
by  sea  ;  which  lieing  (h)ne,  and  he,  landing  on  the  coast,  Avas  amazed  to 
find  that  some  of  his  company  had  discovered  an  English  settlement 
near  Port  Nelson.  On  his  arrival  there  he  found  a  party  who  told  him 
they  were  part  of  a  shij)'s  erew  from  Boston ;  that  they  were  set  on 
shiU'e  to  look  for  a  place  where  th(!  ship  might  winter." 

To  this  statement,  which  is  a  condensation  of  Ellis'  narrative,  he 
adds  in  substance,  — 

"It  is  impossible  to  say  whether  this  was  the  ship  in  De  Fonte's 
ac(!ount ;  but  if  it  was,  or  if  we  should  be  wrong  in  this  conjecture,  it 
will  still  remain  an  incontestible  proof  that  some  attempts  were  made 
fr(»m  Jioston.  when  they  were  laid  aside  and  forgot  at  T^ondon  and 
Bristol." 

De  Fonte  was  the  Spanish  admiral  spoken  of  by  Thomas  Jefferys 
in  his  "Great  Probability  of  the  Northwest  Passage,  1768  "  as  having 
been  sent  out  to  intercept  the  reported  voyage  of  the  ship  from  Boston, 
as  a  violation  of  Spanish  right  at  the  time  when  Spain  enjoyed  the 
exclusive  route  to  the  Indies.  Snow,  in  his  "  History  of  Boston,"  treats 
th«^  story  of  the  admiral  as  a  myth.  The  voyage  was  probably  for 
trading  purposes. 


HKN.IAMIN    KUANKMN  S    KXI'KIMTION.  W 

II.  A  trace  of  u  hetter  uutlionticatcd  t'XiuMlition  is  tbiind  in  tin- 
*'fi('iillenu'irs  Mii^iiziiu',"  London,  Nov.  1772,  wliicli  Hays:  — 

"  By  a  letter  tVoni  .lames  Wilder,  captain  of  the  Diligence,  titte<i  out 
in  Virginia  by  subscription,  with  u  view  to  the  discovery  of  the  long- 
sought  Northwest  passage,  it  appears  by  the  (tourse  of  the  tides  there 
is  a  passag*',  but  that  it  is  sehhuu  or  never  o[ien,  iind  he  believes 
impassable.  lie  sailed  as  high  as  •iU"  11',  and  discovered  a  large  bay." 
I'o  this  voyage  the  "American  Quarterly  Review"  of  1H2H,  as  well  as 
S(!oresby  in  his  "A(!count  of  the  Arctic  Regions,"  and  Macpherson  in 
Ills  "Annals  of  (%)nuHerce,"  \'ol.  III. .refers  at  s(»nu'  length. 

III.  An  Eakliku  and  also  Undisputed  Account.  —  The  nar- 
rative of  most  interest  is  that  of  the  effort  made  under  the  auspices 
of  Dr.  Franklin,  whose  letter  below  notes  it:  — 

Piiii.AnKMMUA,  Feb.  28,  175!}. 
.  .  .  "I  believe  I  have  not  before  told  you  that  I  have  provided  a 
subscription  here  of  jEloOO  to  fit  out  a  vessel  in  search  of  a  Northwest 
l)assnge.  She  sails  in  a  few  days,  and  is  called  the  Argo,  comnuinded 
by  Mr.  Swaine,  who  was  in  the  last  expedition  in  the  California,  and 
author  of  a  Journal  of  that  voyage  in  two  volumes.  We  thiiik  the 
attempt  hiudabhs  whatever  may  be  the  success.  If  she  fails,  'magnis 
tauuMi  excidit  ausis.'         With  great  esteem, 


Hkn.i.  Kuan  KLIN." 


Mr,  (;ai»wai,ai»kk  Coi.den,  N.Y, 


Of  this  voyage  the  "Pennsylvania  Gazette."  "printed  for  Benjamin 
Franklin,  postmaster,  and  I).  Hall,"  November  15,  1753,  says:  — 

"  Sunday  last  arrived  here  the  schooner  Argo,  Capt.  Charles  Swaine, 
who  sailed  from  this  port  last  spring,  on  the  discovery  of  a  Northwest 
passage.  She  fell  in  with  ice  off  Cape  Farewell ;  left  the  eastern  ice 
and  fell  in  with  the  western  ice,  in  lat.  58°,  and  cruised  to  the  north- 
ward to  lat.  63°,  to  clear  it,  but  could  not ;  it  then  extending  to  the 
eastward.  On  her  return  to  the  southward,  she  met  with  two  Danish 
ships  bound  to  Ball  river  and  Disco,  up  Davis  Straits,  who  had  been  in 
the  ice  fourteen  days  off  Farewell,  and  had  then  stood  to  westward  and 
assured  the  commander  that  the  ice  was  fast  to  the  shore  all  above 


AMEIIICAN    EXPLOIIATIONS    IN    TMK    ICi:    ZONES. 


Iliidson's  Straits  to  the  (listiiuee  of  forty  dci^rees  out:  and  lliat  there  had 
not  been  such  a  severe  winter  as  the  last  these  twenty-four  years  that 
they  had  used  that  track':  they  had  been  nine  weeks  from  C"o[>enha_L«en. 
The  Aro-o.  liudin^'  she  eould  not  get  round  the  ice,  pressed  through  it 
and  got  into  the  snail's  mouth  the  2(ith  of  June,  and  made  the  Ishnid 
Kesohition,  but   was   htreed  out  by  vast  ([Uanl  itics  of  (hiving  iee,  and 


got  into  a  clear  sea  the  first  of  .lulv.     On  tiie  14(ii,  cruisi 


n<j 


tl 


le  n-e 


for  an  opening  to  get  in  again,  she  met  4  sail  of  Hudson's  IJiiy  shi[)s 
end('av(ning  to  get  in,  and  continued  with  them  till  the  l!Hh.  when 
they  parted  in  thii-k  weather,  in  hit.  i')2°  and  a  iialf,  whicii  weather 
continued  until  the  7th  of  August.  The  Hudson  Hay  men  supposed 
themselvi's  4(1  leagues  from  the  western  land. 

"■The  Aigo  ran  down  the  ice  from  (lo^  to  i)l°  oO',  and  after  icpeateiL 
attemj)ts  to  enter  the  straits  in  vain,  as  the  season  for  discovery  on 
tlu'  wcstt'ru  si(h' of  the  liay  was  over,  she  went  on  the  Labrador  coast, 
and  discovered  it  iierfectly  from  Twr  to  i),')^,  linding  no  less  than  six  inlets. 


to   the   licads  of  all  of  which  th 


<?y 


AV 


cut,  and  of  which  we  h 


car 


tl 


lev 


iiavi;    made   a    very   j^ood   chart,   and    have    a    better   account   of    the 
country,  its  soil,  produce,  etc.,  than  has  hithei'to  been  i»ublished. 

"'I'he  c'iptain  says  't  is  much  like  Norway,  and  that  there  is  no 
connnunicatittn  with  Hudson's  Hay  through  Labra(h)r  where  one  has 
lieretofore  imagined,  a  high  ridge  of  mountains  running  n>uth  and 
soutii,  about  fiftv  leagues  within  the  coast.  In  one  of  the  harbors  ihcv 
lound  a  deserted  wooden  house,  with  a  brick  chimney,  which  iiad  been 
built  by  some  I'>nglish,  as  appeared  by  sunchy  things  tlu'y  Icit  be'.iind: 
and  afterwards  in  another  harbor  they  met  with  Captain  (lolf  in  a 
Snow  (a  tlu'ee-masted  vessel,  the  third  mast  abaft  tiie  mainmast, 
carrying  a  trysail)  from  London,  who  informed  them  that  tiie  same 
Snow  had  been  there  last  year,  and  landed  some  of  the  .Moravian 
Hrethren,  who  had  built  that  liouse  ;  but  the  natives,  having  decoyed 
the  then  captain  of  the  Snow  iind  live  or  six  of  his  hands  in  tlieir 
boat  round  a  point  of  land  at  a  distance  from  the  Snow,  under 
pretence  of  trade,  and  carried  them  all  off  (they  having  gone  impru- 
dently without  arms),  the  Snow  after  waiting  sixteen  days  without 
hearing  of  them,  went  home  and  was  obliged  to  take  away  the  Mora- 


I'lONNSVLN  ANIA    AND   THE    NOIITH-WKST    I'A-SAC  ii:. 

villus   to    lu'l[)    to    work    the   vessel.     Part  of   the   business  this  ye 


-I 


was  to  inquire  after  those 


/esse 
men 


ir 


Cajdain    Swaiue   diseovi'rcd    a    tine 


hmg 


bank,  whieh   Hes  but  six   h'au'ues  off  the   eoast,   and   extcnch 


from  lal.  oT"  to  r)4°,  sui)i.<)sed  to  be  the  same  hinted  at  in  ('ai»lain 
Davis's  sei-ond  voya^'c.  X(»  bad  a('('i(hMil  lia]i])ened  to  the  vessel, 
and  the  men  kejjt  in  perfeet  health  during  the  whole  voyage  aiid 
returned  all  well/' 

Not  satistied  with  the  restdts  of  this  attemjit.  Captain  Swaiue  again 
saih'd  in  the  ''Argo"  the  following  spring,  and  the  •'Pennsylvania 
Journal  and  Weekly  Advertiser"  of  Thursilay,  C)et.  '24,  1T")4.  \)\\\>- 
lished   in   Philadelphia,  says  :  — 


On  Sunday  last  arriveil  here    the   schooner   Argo,  ('ap 


wanic 


who   was   litted  out    in    the    spring  on    the   (lisco\ciy   of    a    Northwest 


tiissau'i' 


but  havino-  ijnee  of   his  men   killed  on   the    Labradc 


)r    coast 


returned  without  sueeess. 


Tiie  "  ( Ja/.etle  "  also  says :  — 

"On  Sunday  last  arrived  the  sehooner  .\rgo  from   a  second  attempt 


>f  a  di 


)f  the  North 


>t 


au'i 


)iit  without  sui 


liscover; 

In  regard  to  this  voyage,  the  Penn  papers  of  iIh,'  library  of  the  lii>- 
torieal  Society  of  Pennsylvania  furnish  the  following 

'•^  Letter  from   Will.  Alleit.  merchant,  amU  at  a  Inter  (/<if<\  Chief  Jiistiee 
of  the  Province  of  Pennsi/lvaiiia,  to  the  Proprietnrji,  Thomox  Peiiv." 

IMiiLADia.i'in A,  Novfinhci  Is,  IT'iJ. 

Sii;,  —  As  1  am  assured  that  everything  that  regards  the  interest 
and  reputation  of  the  Province  of  Peinisylvania  will  ever  be  reg.irded 
by  you,  I  therefore  beg  leave  to  solicit  your  favor  in  ln'half  of  myself 
and  many  other  merehants  of  this  plaee.  Notwithstanding  the  re- 
peated attempts  of  gentkunen  in  li^ngland  to  discover  the  Northwest 
passage  without  sueeess,  yet  there  has  appeared  among  us  a  spirit 
to  umlertake  that  noble  design,  Avhich,  if  efiVcted,  will  redound  to 
the  honor  of  your  ])rovinee,  and  to  the  advaidagc  of  us.  the  under- 
takcu's. 

By  the  enclosed  papers,  over  which  you  will  be  jtleased  to  cast  your 
eye,  you  will  perceive  that  last  year  we  had  intended  to  put  our  design 


ri 


I 


I 


■m 


m 

,■  I 

;  (  ■       ' 

X 

I 


1;  ^1 


•N  illJ 


*2S 


AMKUILAN    EXI'LOUATIONS    IN  THE    ICE   ZONES. 


in  execution,  but  hy  the  oxtiemity  ot"  the  winter  and  other  accidents  it 
was  })()stp()ned  to  the  next  year,  at  which  time,  as  we  have  bought  a 
vessel  and  all  other  material,  and  t  igaged  a  navigator  and  mariners 
here,  we  shall  jtroceed  in  the  affair  and  despatch  the  vessel  from  here 
tiie  latter  end  of  March,  and  are  in  great  hopes,  by  avoiding  mistakes 
of  former  attempts,  and  pursuing,  as  we  think,  more  projjer  measures, 
to  be  able  to  efl'ect  the  discovery  of  the  passage,  or,  at  least,  put  it  out 
of  doubt  whother  there  is  one  or  no.     We  have  been  the  more  encour- 
aged in  this  attempt  by  the  consideration  that,  in  case  our  search  for 
the  passage  should  be  fruitless,  we  might  strike  out  a  lucrative  trade 
with  the  coast  of  Labrador ;  but  we,  to  our  great  surprise,  are  informed 
we  are  like  to  be  dei)rived  of  the  proposed  trade  by  means  of  a  scoun- 
drel of  a  parson,  one  James  Sterling,  who  last  summer  took  his  passage 
to  London,  and  there  represented  the  advantage  of  the  trade  to  the 
Labrador  coast   in  such   a   light  to  Messrs.  Hanbury,   Buchanan,  and 
others,  that  it  is  said  they  hiivo  applied  to  the  Crown  for  an  exclusive 
[tatent.     This  same  Sterling,  who  is  a  Church  of  England  minister  at 
Newtown,  Md.,  was  concerned  with  us  in  the  original  undertaking,  and 
subscribed  to  bear  part  of  the  expense ;  but  after  he  had,  by  frequent 
conversations,  extracted  from  the  person  we  chiefly  depend  upon  for 
executing  the  design  all  or  chief  part  of  the  intelligence  that  he  could 
give,  he  has  been  base  enough  to  endeavor  to  circumvent  us.     As  a 
proof  of  that  I  assert,  I  here  enclose  liis  original  letter,  wrote  with  his 
own  hand,  to  Mr.  benjamin  Franklin.     We  have  also  here  our  paper 
of  subscription  for  the  carrying  on  of  the  undertaking,  signed  by  the 
said   Sterling;   notwithstanding  which,  as  I  said  before,  he   made  a 
voyage  to   London,  and  for  his  discovery  and  the  proposals  he  laid 
before  tlie  above  gentlemen,  he  has,  though  a  parson,  been  rewarded 
with  the  collectorship  of  the  customs  at  the  head  of  the  bay.     We  con- 
ceive ourselves  very  ill  used  by  this  false  brother ;  have  therefore  pre- 
sented a  petition  to  his  majesty,  which  comes  hercAvith,  praying  that 
no  patent  for  an  exclusive  trade  be  granted,  which  is  humbly  sub- 
mitted to  your  consideration  ;  and  I  am  desired  to  recjuest  that  you  will 
please  to  get  it  presented  if  you  judge  it  will  answer  any  good  end. 
The  expense  attending  the  solicitation,  etc.,  I  will  take  care  of,  with 


SIR   JOHN    FRANKLIN. 


21> 


thanks  to  discharge.  Your  kind  interposition  in  our  behalf  will  confer 
a  favor  on  many  of  the  most  consideral)le  merchants  of  this  place,  and 
particularly  on  Your  most  obedient,  humble  servant, 

Will.  Allen." 


Mr.  Bancroft,  in  his  ''History  of  the  United  States,"  Vol.  IV., 
p.  141,  indorses  the  fact  of  the  voyages  last  named.  In  Jeft'ery's  vol- 
ume of  1768  will  be  found  the  statement  that  a  Captain  Taylor,  in  a 
sloop  of  about  thirty-five  tons,  was  met  with  July  9,  1758,  in  about 
latitude  50°  north,  which  sloop  had  been  lifted  out  in  Rhode  Island  to 
go  in  pursuit  of  a  northwest  passage  and,  if  not  successful,  to  come 
down  on  the  coast  of  Labrador. 


i: 


a 


llENKWAL   OF   THE   SEARCH. 

The  exidorations  suspended  by  the  ill-success  of  past  efforts  and 
yet  more  by  the  existence  of  the  long  period  of  the  wars  in  Europe,  were 
renewed  four  years  after  the  peace  of  1815.  Its  history  from  that 
date  is  so  closely  connected  with  the  name  of  Sir  John  Franklin,  the 
search  for  whom  occasioned  its  revival  in  the  United  States,  that  it 
will  best  evolve  itself  in  the  story  of  his  career.  The  efforts  of  Kane 
and  Hall  for  the  rescue  of  the  lost  explorer,  and  the  noble  seconding 
of  these  by  Mr.  Henry  Grinnell,  of  New  York,  under  the  auspices  of 
the  U.  S.  (rovernment,  hold  a  place  among  the  deeds  of  humanity 
which  the  world  lionors. 


Sir  John  Franklin,  the  youngest  of  fo\ir  sons  of  Willingham 
Franklin,  merchant,  was  born  April  16,  1786,  at  Spilsbv,  Lincolnshire. 
His  father,  designing  him  for  the  church,  gave  him  a  classical  and 
mathematical  education,  but  the  first  sight  of  the  f  cean  so  vividly 
excited  the  boy's  imagination  that  he  determined  to  be  a  sailor.  His 
father,  thinking  that  this  childish  caj)rice  would  be  cured  by  a  taste  of 
sea  life,  shipped  him  on  a  merchant  vessel  to  Lisbon,  but  on  his  retuvn 
found  him  more  thjyi  ever  a  lover  of  the  sea.  He  obtained  for  him  a 
midshipman's  warrant   on    the  "  P(»lyi)iiemus,"   of  seventy-four  guns, 


'I 


a(» 


AMKllK  AN    KXI'LOKATIONS    IN    TIIK    ICIO   ZONKS. 


<ii    \ 


cf»ininan(lc(l  by  ('ai>tiiiii  Liiwford,  under  wliuin  the  yomifif  offieer  took 
I)urt  in  the  btitth'  of  Copenhagen,  1801. 

Iji  1808,  he  was  attached  to  the  '"Investigator,"  on  the  survey  of  the 
coasts  of  New  Holland,  setting  out  on  his  return  from  which  cruise 
he  was  shipwrecked,  with  his  brotlier  officers  and  crew,  on  a  desolate 
sand-bank,  scarcely  four  feet  above  the  water,  and  rescued  at  the  end 
only  of  fifty  days'  suffering.  At  the  battle  of  Trafalgar,  where  he 
acted  as  signal  officer  on  the  "  liellerophon,"  he  was  distinguished  for 
his  coolness  and  intrepidity  in  the  hours  of  greatest  danger,  when  sur- 
rounded by  the  dead  and  wounded.  The  remainder  of  his  active  ser- 
vice was  on  the  coast  of  Portugal,  on  the  Brazil  station,  and  in  the 
(Julf  of  jNlexico.  His  ship  in  1808  carried  the  royal  family  of  I'or- 
tugal  to  Brazil,  when  forced  into  hasty  exile  from  Lisbon.  In  the  war 
between  the  United  States  and  (Jreat  Britain,  at  the  battle  of  New 
Orleans,  he  was  slightly  wounded  while  in  command  of  the  "  Belford's  " 
Itoiits.  and  for  his  brilliant  conduct  in  this  action  was  made  first  lieu- 
tenant of  the  "Forth."  This  ship,  at  the  restoration  of  the  Jiourbons, 
carried  the  long-exiled  Duchess  d'Angoideme,  daughter  of  Louis  XVL, 
back  to  France. 

From  this  date  his  talents  Avere  ehieflj'  enlisted  in  the  field  of  Arctic 
exploration,  which  connects  itself  with  this  history.  English  efforts 
to  icarli  the  Pole  and  find  the  Northwest  ])assage  were  about  to  be 
ic\  ived.  'J'he  rejjorts  made  by  Scoresby  of  the  existence  during  the 
two  preceding  years  of  ui)en  water  to  the  extent  of  two  thousand 
s(|uare  leagues  in  llic  (Jrceulaiid  Sea,  between  the  seventy-tun itli  and 
ciglitieth  degrees,  north  latitude,  with  like  reports  of  the  breaking  up 
oi'  the  ice  barrier  on  the  north,  excited  the  attention  of  navigators. 
Tlie  Admiralty,  inlinenceil  by  the  suggestions  of  Sir  John  liarrow,  and 
of  Sir  .biseph  Banks,  who.  as  a  scieutilic  man,  stood  high  with  the  gov- 
ernment, prepared  two  new  ex])editions.  and  Sir  Joseph  lianks  desig- 
natei.i  Franklin  as  second  in  command  of  one  of  these.  Both  expedi- 
tions were  unsucct'ssl'ul.  finding,  after  r(>ac]iing  tiie  eightieth  degree  of 
north  latitude,  in  ])laco  of  tin;  o])en  Polar  sea,  through  which  it  was 
hojied  they  could  nu'ke  a  siiort  journey  to  Behring's  Strait,  an  im])en- 
etrable  line  of  ice.     After  their  live  months'  eruist'   the  -  Dorothea" 


sill    JOHN    FHANKLIN  S    LAST    EXPEDITION. 


81 


i 


and  the  "Trent"  returned  iv  Oeptford,  Oet(.l)er  22,  1818.  Admiral 
lieechey,  who  liad  served  with  Franklui  in  the  *  Trent,"*  has  given  a 
vivid  account  of  the  strong  desire  of  Franklin  to  eontinue  the  eruise, 
even  after  the  receipt  of  very  serious  injury  to  his  ship. 

In  the  year  following,  he  left  (xravesend  on  a  merchant  ship  of  the 
Hudson  Bay  Company,  for  a  land  journey  to  the  northern  shores  of 
Ameriv-a,  which  he  was  to  ei:i)lore  in  co-operation  with  Parry,  who  was 
despatched,  with  two  vessels,  to  Lancaster  Sound.  The  whole  north- 
ern coast  at  that  date  had  been  explored  at  but  two  isolated  points, 
the  moutljs  of  the  Copiiermine  and  the  McKenzie.  Accompanied  by 
Dr.  Kiciiardson,  Midshipmen  Hood  and  Back,  and  a  few  Orkney  men, 
he  reached  York  Factory,  from  the  city  of  New  York,  August  18,  and 
thciire,  l)y  a  journey  of  seven  hundred  miles,  arriv.u  at  Fort  Cumber- 
land in  October,  and  wintered  the  lirst,  year  on  the  Saskatchewan, 
and  the  second  on  "the  barren  grounds";  in  the  following  summer  he 
<iescended  the  C-oppermine  River,  and  surveyed  five  hundred  and  fifty 
miles  of  the  sea-coast  eastward.  From  York  Factory  to  the  return  to 
it  by  land  and  water,  the  journey  was  one  of  live  thousand  five  hun- 
dred and  fifty  miles. 

In  his  second  land  expedition,  1825-27,  he  descended  tlie  McKenzie, 
and  traceti  the  coast  line  througli  thirty-seven  degrees  of  longitude  to 
near  the  one  hundred  and  fiftieth  meridian.  The  English  government, 
aj)preciating  the  services  of  one  who,  through  great  danger  and  suf- 
fering, had  carried  these  expeditions  over  nine  thousand  nnles.  and 
added  to  the  charts  twelve  hundred  mil(>s  of  tlu;  northern  coast-line, 
knif^hled  luni  in  \X'2\K  He  also  received  tiie  honorary  degree  of  D.C.L. 
from  tlie  Cniversitv  of  Oxford,  was  awarded  the  great  fiold  medal 
from  the  Fieiich  (Teographical  Society,  and  was  elected  u  n\ember  of 
the  Academy  of  Sciences,  Paris. 

As  governor  of  Tasmania,  188(5-43,  he  aecomplislied  much  for  the 
ailvaneement  of  the  colony,  —  among  other  benefits  founding  the  K(tyal 
Society  oi"  Tasmania  at  Hobart-Town,  the  meetings  of  which  were  held 
in  the  (iovi'rnment-house.  and  the  papers  printed  at  his  ex])ense.  P)y  a 
singular  coincidence,  among  the  Antarctic  oxpcMlitions  visiting  the  col- 
(i!iv  he  had  occasion  to  welcome  the  "  I-h'cbus  "  and  "Terror,"  the  shijis 


■  ) 


V!: 


t 


32 


AMKUICAN    EXPLOHATIONS    IN    THE    ICE   ZONES. 


with  wliifli  his  ov/n    name  was  afteiwards  to  he  so  pathetically  con» 
nected. 


FI5ANKLIN  S    LAST  EXPEDITION. 

On  his  return  to  England,  in  1844,  he  found  the  Admiralty  exercised 
on  the  subject  of  a  new  Arctic  expedition,  proposed  by  the  Hoyal 
Society  at  the  instance  of  Sir  John  Barrow.  He  claimed  the  com- 
mand, and  was  appointed.  On  this  occasion  the  first  lord  of  the  Admi- 
ralty had  said  to  Sir  Edward  Parry,  "  I  see  that  Franklin  is  sixty  years 
of  age;  ouglit  we  to  i^ermit  him  to  go  out?"  to  which  Parry  replied, 
"He  is  the  ablest  man  I  know,  and  if  you  do  not  send  him  he  will 
certainly  die  of  despair."  Franklin  himself  said,  when  asked,  "  Can 
you  not  repose  on  the  laurels  won  in  such  good  service  for  your  coun- 
try?" "My  lord,  I  am  but  fifty-nine."  "He  appeared,"  says  La  Ro- 
(^uette,  "as  jealous  of  a  few  months  of  his  age,  when  it  was  a  question 
of  exposure  to  great  danger,  or  of  executing  a  work  of  dithculty  or 
suffering,  as  a  woman  would  be  of  being  thought  older  than  the  parisii 
register  showed."  The  prestige  of  Arctic  service,  and  of  his  brilliant 
experiences,  brought  around  him  a  crowd  of  volunteers  for  the  new 
exjjedition  in  search  of  the  Northwest  passage,  and,  supported  by  a 
body  of  olHcers  conspicuous  for  talent  and  energy,  and  a  crew  largely 
chosen  from  the  whaling  service,  he  left  England,  in  comnumd  of  the 
"Erebus"  and  "Terror,"  May  19,  1845.  In  his  judgment,  the  solution 
of  the  problem  of  the  passage  was  now  to  connect  Parry's  furthest 
westing  of  113°  48'  22",  made  in  1819,  either  with  liehring's  Strait  or 
southward  with  Simpson's  Strait.  Franklin's  instructions  were  framed 
(in  conjunction  with  Sir  John  Barrow,  and  upon  his  own  suggestions) 
by  the  eminent  explorers  with  whom  liis  former  work  had  closely  con- 
nected him.  The  experience  of  Parry  made  it  evident  that  a  fresh 
attempt  to  force  ships  through  the  heavy  ice  seen  by  him  to  the 
southwest  of  Melville  Island  would  be  futile,  as  has  since  been  fully 
proved.  On  the  other  hand,  Franklin's  surveys  of  the  north  coast  of 
America  had  long  before  satisfied  him  that  a  navigable  passage  existed 
along  it,  from  the  Fish  River  to  Behring's  Strait.  Of  the  western 
entrance  co  Simpson's  Strait  he  had  been  accustomed  to  say,  "If  I 


*  ,-■■/ 


«^-= 


/    "' 


■m- 


\ 

1 

.1 

;  \  ;; 

m 


II 


32 

•vviili   ■«% 


,S  H 


I      tiiv'     ('i>ti« 


I; 


v~. 


t       •    '      I . 


»-  X 


1   ;  .  'I 


.li.    VV' 


t:r-'  ■  ii 


l    ■!     1.--1. 


t:'-.l   i' 


>'  u'.}'  ("\ircif!o.(l 

-     .•  :    i>\    t  iti.    K  iv.il 

■ '  •   '  -  <v,n»''*    I  ;i!     ;  ;.!n- 

^->ir     -n!  'I?'  {}!<>  A<liiii- 

•    ,    !    .-ikltn  i'-  sixty  vciUN 

^^•>i.  h    "aiJ-y  n;!''ii.'d. 

,!.'■  i(.-i    .-"'  >'  '.uit  hf    ^  :ii 

•!•■  .  \vii'M>  1*  \«  ■,«,  i  {jiit-snii)' 
'  >>f  ii  W'-ck  «(jr  ^  ilii'Utiv  «»! 
. ..  rlU  oUi'-r  iL. :,  lilt'  i-aci^li 

:.:;  ^•!«'«'.  ii  --i    ;   i'    ill'-     luiliivUit 


'SUH! 


r.".  i'jy   tht.i  jiin\- 


s*    •      t;      «Mti!!i'n 


;.;ie 


\-U.      f, 


W  lis     'iOVV      i.' 


111      1--1. 


,  ivii;    or 


•(•     ii.iPI'Mj 


M^'liCr^tiOii.-.  ) 


.1    .lusrl 


'  1  „    '  ' ' : .  1  i 


- ».    f 


\  '-n- 


•  H  i<n 


1    I  in 


a'-t.  or 


Vt.-icil 


•f  ,■•, 


4  »! 


Ui'il 


iiV::-<'!"  ,■    '■■■!  ?  ' 


In    v.iv       ■  !i 


1 

4 

s 

flH 

^ 

Itilii'itii,   Kiiui;i\iiiu  .V   I'liiiliiM 


I  \ 

I  i 


!  i 


Iff 


a 


LKTTEUS    FUOM    Sill   .lOHN    FRANKLIN.  B8 

could  only  get  down  there  my  work  is  done;  it  u  all  plain  sailing  to 
the  westward." 

The  ex])edition  of  lH4o  consisted  of  the  "  Krebiis,"  three  hundred 
and  seventy  tons,  screw,  Captain  Sir  J.  Franklin  eonnuanding,  with 
('i)iuniander  J.  Fitz-Janies  and  Lieuteiwint  (i.  (iore;  and  the  "Terror," 
three  hundred  and  forty  tons,  screw,  Captain  F.  U.  M.  C'rozier  and 
Lieutenant  K.  Little. 

It  conii)rised  in  all  one  hundred  and  thirty-four  olheers  and  men, 
with  a  transport  ship  to  carry  additional  stores  to  Disco,  (ireenland. 
The  "Erebus"  and  "Terror"  were  victualled  for  three  years,  and  fur- 
nished with  every  appliance  of  that  day;  much  of  the  provisions,  how- 
ever, i)roving  at  a  later  date  to  have  been  of  a  (luality  most  unfortu- 
nate for  the  success  of  the  enterprise.  Within  the  second  week  of 
July  the  transport  took  on  board  lor  her  return  the  last  letters  ever 
received  from  officers  or  crew.     Fi-ankliirs  last  was  as  follows:  — 

"WuALK  Fisii  Island,  Uay  of  Disco,  11th  July,  184.'). 

"My  Dear  Sister, —  .  .  .  The  a])pearance,  dress,  and  manners  (»t 
the  Esquimaux  bespeak  that  care  is  taken  of  iliem  by  the  government. 
Several  of  them  can  read  the  liible  with  ease,  and  1  am  told  that  when 
the  families  are  all  collected  the  children  are  obliged  to  attend  school 
daily.  I  looked  into  one  of  the  huts  arranged  with  seats  for  this  pur- 
pose. When  the  minister  comes  over  from  Disco  he  sui»erintends  the 
school ;  at  other  times  the  children  are  taught  by  a  half-caste  Esijui- 
maux.  How  delightful  it  is  to  know  that  the  gospel  is  s})reading  far 
and  wide,  and  will  do  so  till  its  blessed  truths  are  disseminated 
through  the  globe.  Every  ship  in  these  days  ought  to  go  forth  to 
strange  lands  bearing  among  its  officers  a  missionary  spirit ;  and  may 
God  grant  such  a  spirit  on  board  this  ship.  It  is  my  desire  to  cultivate 
this  feeling,  and  I  am  encouraged  to  hope  we  have  among  us  some  who 
will  aid  me  in  this  duty.  We  have  divine  service  twice  on  each  Sun- 
day, and  I  never  witnessed  a  more  attentive  congregation  than  wo 
have.  May  the  seed  sown  fall  upon  good  ground,  and  bring  forth 
fruit  abundantly  to  God's  honor  and  glory. 

"Ever  your  affectionate  brother, 

John  Franklin.  ' 


»m 


!  ^  III  if 
!  '  W  i 


34 


AMKIIICAN    KXI'LOUATIONS    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZONKS. 


H 


Two  iluys  be  tore,  he  hiul  writteti,  "  I  hope  that  my  (Uuir  wife  and 
daughter  will  not  he  iiiixioiis  if  we  should  not  return  l)V  the  time  they 
have  iixed  upon.  .  .  .  Without  suiieess  in  our  object,  even  after  tlie 
second  winter^  we  should  wish  to  try  some  other  eliannel,  should  the 
state  of  our  provisions  and  the  health  of  our  crews  justify  it." 

The  fullest  anticipations  of  success  were  indulged  in  by  ollicers  and 
men.  Some,  in  their  letters  home,  went  so  far  as  to  speak  of  answers 
being  directed  to  them  to  ports  on  the  Asiatic  coast.  Lieutenant  Fair- 
holme,  of  the  "Erebus,"  wrote,  "On  board  we  are  as  comfortable  as  it  is 
possible  to  be.  I  need  hardly  toll  you  how  much  we  are  all  delighted 
with  our  eaptam.  He  has,  I  am  sure,  won  not  onl}-  the  respect,  but 
the  love  of  every  person  on  board  by  his  amiable  manner  and  kindness 
to  all ;  and  his  inlluence  is  always  employed  for  some  good  purpose,  both 
among  ollicers  and  men.  lie  is  in  much  better  health  than  when  we 
left  England,  and  looks  ten  years  younger."  The  gallant  Fitz-James 
had  also  written  to  Mr.  John  Iiarri)w,  Jr.,  "I  am  convinced  that  he  is 
the  most  capable  of  all  men  of  commanding  an  expeditioji  which 
demands  profound  judgment  and  large  experience." 

From  tlie  date  of  these  letters  no  direct  news  from  th<?  ships  was 
ever  received,  except  the  reports  of  (ya[)tains  Dunnet  and  Martin,  of 
the  whalers,  " Prince  of  Wales"  and  "Enterprise,"  who  spoke  them, 
July  2(5,  of  the  same  year,  in  Mt'iville  Bay,  north  hititudd  77°  48',  east 
longitudt>  6()°  13'.  On  that  day  "everything  was  going  on  well; 
ollicers  and  men  busily  shooting  the  birds  —  the  auk?.  —  which  sur- 
round(-d  them,  to  a(hl  to  their  provision  stores,  augmyiiting  these  by  a 
full  supply  f(n'  nearly  two  years." 

KELIEF   EXPEDITIONS. 

Although  no  real  public  anxiety  as  to  the  fate  of  the  vessels  was 
felt  in  England  for  the  two  years  following,  preparations  began  to  be 
made  for  the  possible  necessity  of  succoring  the  explorers ;  and,  time 
still  passing  without  tidings,  expedition  after  expedition  was  des- 
patched in  quest,  regardless  of  cost  or  hazard.  Sir  John's  heroic  wife 
taking  in  these  such  a  part  as  to  ennoble  her  name  for  all  time.     The 


UKLIKF   EXI'ICIUTION.S. 


36 


I!     I'i. 


AiJUMiciiii  o\pl(»ratii)ns  of  Kiuii!  and  lliiil,  which  arc  chtsely  coiiiicL'ted 
with  the  ohjtict  «»t"  tht'so  exjjcditioiis,  are  iiHiludod  in  thi;  tollowiiijT 
tiihlea.  The  lines  of  search,  and  the  cliiel  h)calitie8  examined  may  be 
(raced  on  eircnm-pohir  ma[>  No.  1  (pocket).  Tlie  tables  have  been 
arranged  to  show  that  the  search  for  Franklin  was  carried  on  by  expe- 
ditions which,  within  aliont  the  same  p(U'iods,  visited  the  northern 
coasts,  some  from  Hehrinji;"s  Strait  and  sonn»  from  Mallin's  Hay,  snpi)le- 
nicnli'd  by  land  explorations,  chielly  along  the  middle  section  of  the 
continent.  The  i)rivate  expeditions  closed  the  search  (Table  IV.)  by 
McClintock's  voyage  in  the  "Fox." 


iij 


■i 


Table  I. 

ENQLisa  AND  Ameuioan  Exi'Knmoxs  fok  thk  Ukmkf  of  Siu  John  Fkanklin, 
1848-1859.    FitOM  tuk  West  Tinsouciii  Heiikino's  Stuait. 


Years. 


Vessels. 


ComiiiHiiilers. 


Line  of  Search  and  Coasts  F.xuiDiiied. 


1848-52 


1848-49 


1850-55 

1851-52 

185.3 

185:5 

18.53 

1854 


Plover 


Herald 


Enterprise  . 
Investigator, 
ISniipli/  Shijis. 
Dieiialus 
Aniiiliitrite, 
Ivattlesnake, 
Diligence    . 
Trincomalee, 


Coinnianiler  Moore 
Captain  Magnire  . 


Captain  Kellett 


Through  Hchring'sStniit,  beyond  Point 
Harrt)vv.  to  lal.  Tli'Sl',  N.  long.  1(>;P  4S' 
W.,  with  a  boat  expedition  from  the 
'  Plover  np  tlu;  Mackenzie  River,  and  east 
to  Cape  Hathnrst;  Mr.  K.  Sheddon  in 
his  yacht  "Nancy  Dawson"  rendering 
assistance. 


Discovered  Herald  Island,  and  visited 
'  <^  and  named  a  part  of  the  land  reported 
by  Wrangcll. 


Captain  CoUinsoii 
Commander  McClure, 

Captain  Wellesley 
Captain  Frederick 
Commander  Trolloiir. 
Lientenant  Elliott 
Captain  Houston  .     . 


Coivst  of  North  A  nierioa,  from  Bell  ring's 
.Strait  to  Deasc  Strait  and  coast  of  lianks' 
Land.  Investigator  abandoned  Jinie  :{, 
18.V),  in  the  Bay  of  Mercy,  on  the  north 
coast  of  Hanks'  Land.  Commander 
McClure  crossed  on  the  ice  to  Dealy 
Island  to  the  Hesolnte  anil  Intrepid,  and 
returned  across  the  Atlantic  to  England. 
Parliament  gave  1*10,000  to  him  and  Lis 
_  orticers. 


^}]  i 


86 


AMKUICAN    KXI'LOUATIONS    IN    TMK    ICK   ZONES. 

Tahlk  II. 

Fl{<)M    TUK    K.VST  TIlKOliUI    DAFI'-IN's    HaY. 


Years. 


1848-4'.» 


is4i  )-:>(> 


IS.JO- 


lfe50-ul 


) 850-51 


Vessels. 


Eiiteri)rise   . 
Investigator, 

Xortli  Star  . 
Suppli/  s/tip. 

L'y  V  aiiklin, 
Sopliia     .     . 

Kosoliite  .  . 

As.si.slaiice  . 
Pioneer   . 

Intrepid  .  . 

Advance.     . 

Rescue    .     . 


I8:f2 


1853 


Assistance 
Hesohite  . 
Pioneer   . 
Intre()i(l  . 
Nortli  IStar 


( '(iiiiiiiaiulors. 


Sir  J.  ('.  IJoss  .     .     . 
Captain  Bin  I .        .     . 

Master  Sannders  .     . 

Captain  Penny  .  .     . 
Cai)tain  Stewart    .     . 

Captain  Anstin     .  . 

Captain  Oniniaiiey  . 

liientenant  Osliorn  . 

Licntenant  Calor  .  . 

Lientenant  Dellaven, 

Master  GrilHn,U.8.X. 


Line  of  Search  uud  Cuusts  Examined. 


':  Xorth  and  west  coast  of  North  .'^oiihm  - 
[set;  north  sliores  of  IJarrow  Strait  and 
'  tlie  sliores  of  Prince  Itegent's  Inlet. 

i  Landed  provisions  on  one  of  the  Wol- 
I  laston  Islands. 

I      Coasts  of  Cornwall  is  Island  and  shores 
of  Wellington  Channel. 

Sonth  coasts  of  Parry  Islands,  and  the 
l)assages  between  them,  north,  west,  antl 
east  coast  of  Prince  of  Wales  Island  to 
lon^'.  Wy  W.,  lat.  Ti'-'X. 


(  First  Grinnt'll  exiiedit 
}  Wellington  Channel;  disc 
(  Land. 


ion :    shores    of 
iscovered  (Jrinneli 


Sir  E.  Uelcher  .  . 
[  Cai)tain  Kellet  .     . 

liientenant  Oshorn 
!  Lient.  McClintocU 

Captain  Pnllen 


Phenix    .     . 
Breailalbane, 


1853-u.")     Advance 


liSo4 


1855 


Phenix 
Talbot 

Release 

Arctic 


Cominand'r  Inglefield 
Lieutenant  Fawckner 


Dr.  Kane,  L'.S.N. 


Command' r  Inglefield 
Commander  Jenkins, 

Lientenant  Ilartstene 

u.s.x. 

Lientenant  ."imnis  . 

r.s.x. 


Shores  of  Wellington  Channel  and  the 
coasts  of  Melville  and  Prince  Patrick 
Islands;  the  Assistance,  I!esolu;e,  and 
I'ioneer,  and  Intrepid  ai)andoned  Aug. 
20,  isr)4;  the  Pesolute  picked  ni>  at  sea. 
lat.  (54-"  40',  long.  01°  30'.  Sept.  II,  IS")."), 
by  Capt.  James  Bnddington,  of  New 
London.  Conn.,  brought  to  the  I'^nited 
States.  andi)resented  to  England  by  joint 
resolution  of  United  States  Congress  of 
Aug.  L'S,  1S.")();  delivered  to  Queen  Vic- 
toria by  Couunaiuler  Ilartstene,  I'.S.N., 
Dec,  10,  of  the  same  year. 

Shores  of  Wellington  Channel;  landed 
stores  at  Cape  Hiley;  retiu'ned  with  part 
of  McClure's  connuand;  LieiU.  JJellot,  of 
France,  perished  in  the  ice  Aug.  17,  18.');5; 
the  ship  lost  at  Cape  Riley  Aug,  LM,  lS'>'-\. 

Second  Crrinnell  e:,pedition,  Smith's 
Sound,  lat,  82°27'N, 


Ketiuned    to    Ijigland   from  Hecchey 
I  Island,  with  part  of  \?elclier's  and  Mc- 
Clure's command. 

Ships  sent  out  for  relief  of  Dr.  Kane; 
'  found  him  on   his  return  at  Lievely  or 
Godhaven,  (ireenlaiul. 


KELIKF    EXI'EDITIONS. 

Table  III. 

Land  Expeditions. 


8T 


1848-4i>- 


Sir  John  Richardson  and  Dr.  Rae  searched  the  coasts  of  North  America 
between  the  Maolvcnzie  and  tlie  Coppermine  Rivers.  (Dr.  Rae,  under  the 
Hndson  Bay  Company,  in  1840-47  made  a  voyage  of  discovery  from  Fort 
Churchill  to  the  Gulf  of  l}oothia,  surveying  the  gulf  to  Fury  and  Hecla 
Strait  on  the  east,  and  Lord  Mayor's  Uay  of  Sir  James  Ross  on  the  west, 
determining  there  an  isthmus.) 

1S4!»  —  Dr.  Rae  reached  Cape  Krusenstern. 

lS4lt-51  —  Lieut.  W.  J.  S.  PuUen  from  the  Plover.     (See  Table  No.  I.  for  boat  expedition.) 

IS.")!  — Dr.  Rae:  coasts  of  Wollaston  Island  and  east  coast  of  Victoria  Laud,  to  lat. 
70^  N.,  long.  101-'  \V. 

lS.")3-54  —  Dr.  Rae:  coasts  of  Roothia  Istlunus;  obtained  relics  of  Franklin's  expedition. 
(Rewarded  by  vote  of  Parliament.) 

I>s5ii  —  J.  Anderson  and  J.  G.  Stewart:  west  coast  of  Adelaide  Peninsula. 


Table  IV. 

PiuvATE   Expeditions   Organized    under  Subscriptions  by  Lady   Fi!axki,in, 
Captain  Ross,  Lieutenants  McClintock,  Young,  and  others. 


Years. 


Vessels. 


Conuiianders. 


Line  of  Search  and  Coasts  Exainhied. 


1850-51 


1850 


1851-52 


kS52 


1857-59 


Felix 
Mary 


Prince  Albert 


Sir  John  Ross  .     .     , 
Commander  Phillips , 


Commander  Forsyth, 


P-incp Albert    ^apta^i"  Kennedy, 
P.uice  AlDcit    Lieutenant  Bellot , 


Isabel , 


Fox 


Command' r  Inglefield, 


Captain  McClintock 


A  portion  of  Cornwallis  Island.  (Dr. 
E.  A.  Goodsir,  brother  of  the  surueon  of 
the  Erebus,  in  tho  whaler  Advice  in  1849 
also  searched  Baffin's  Bay  and  Lancaster 
Sound. 

Found  Barrow  Strait  and  Prince  Re- 
gent's Inlet  blocked  with  ice;  coasts  of 
Prince  of  Wales  Island  and  North 
Somerset. 

Shores  of  Prince  Regent's  Inlet  and 
Bellot's  Strait.  Lientenam.  Bellot  of 
France  was  second  in  command. 

Westenholme,  Whale.  Smith's.  Jones', 
and  Lancaster  Sound"  and  Baffin's  Bay. 
(Captain  Kennedy,  in  '*<'>3,  sailed  in  the 
Isabel  for  Behring's  Strait,  voyage  aban- 
doned at  Valparaiso. ) 

Completed  survey  of  North  Somerset, 
Prince  of  Wales  Island.  Boothia,  Felix 
Peninsula,  and  King  William  Land, 
finding  many  relicr-  of  Frai.klin's  CApe- 
dition,  and  obtaining'  at  Point  Victory 
the  only  record  as  yet  discovered. 


This  last  expedition,  under  McClintock,  brought  from  the  cairn   it  Point  Victory,  on 
King  William  Land,  a  tin  cylinder  containing  the  record. 


!■« 


,'  ,ij 


.  t: 


. '    I' 
'it 

'  'fir 


WK^ 

•  !\*r  "' '!' 

f:||l|| 

88 


AMEUlC^yS    EXPLORATIONS    IN    THE    ICE   ZONKS. 


The  finding  of  this  paper  ami  the  expedition  itself,  were  the  result 
of  Lady  Franklin's  last  effort  to  discover  the  fate  of  her  husband. 
To  this  object  slie  dedicated  all  her  available  means,  and,  aided  by 
sympathizing  friends,  had  purchased  and  fitted  out  the  "Fox,"  in 
Avhich  McClintock  sailed.  The  paper  was  found  by  Lieut.  Hobson  in 
a  cairn  twelve  miles  from  Cape  Herschel,  and,  with  a  large  number 
of  relics  obtained  at  this  and  other  points,  it  was  deposited  in  the 
Museum  of  the  United  Service  Institution,  Whitehall  Yard.  Tlie 
discovery  of  this  paper  first  definitely  made  known  the  fate  of  the 
party,  —  an  issue  generally  apprehended  in  England  from  the  time  of 
Rae's  discoveries  in  1854,  for  the  relics  which  in  that  year  he  had 
brought  from  the  Eskimos  were  articles  of  personal  property  of  (he 


HAKOMKTKIi   OF   FRANKLIN'S    EXPEDITION. 

Fouiul  by  C.  F.  Hall,   on  King  William  Land,  in   1869. 


oflficers,  including  Sir  John  Franklin's  own  star  of  the  Order  of  Merit,, 
with  the  motto,  ''Nee  aspera  terrent,''  G.  R.  IIL,  MDCCCXV. 

Notices  of  the  earlier  relics  discovered,  traces  of  the  missing  ships^ 
and  of  the  relics  afterward  recovered  from  the  Eskimos  by  Hall  and. 
Sohwatka,  will  api)ear  in  their  proper  places  in  the  Narrative.  It  will 
be  sufficient  here  to  state  the  results  of  the  expedition  and  the  accred- 
ited aAvards. 

At  the  meetnig  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  of  London, 
May  28,  1800,  the  president.  Earl  de  Grey  and  Ripon.  presenting  the 
founder's  gold  medal  to  Lady  Franklin,  expressed  the  decision  of  the- 
Society  in  the  words :  "  It  is  now  demonstrated  that  the  '  Erebus '  and 
'  Terror '  ascended  Wellington  Channel  to  the  seventy-seventh  degree 
of  north  latitude ;  that  the  two  ships  were  navigated  round  Cornwallis 
Land,  which  was  thus  proved  to  be  an  island;  and  that  finally,  steering 
from  Beechy  Island  to  the  southwest,  they  were,  on  the  12th  of  Sep- 
tember, 1846,  beset  in  the  ice,  in  wlntli  they  Avintered,  in  latituue 
N.  70°  5',  and  longitude  W.  98°  23',  having  reached  a  position  never 
before  or  since  attained  by  any  other  ship." 


Ig 


% 


FRANKLIN   DISCOVERS   THE  NORTHWEST  PASSAGE. 


39 


"In  placing  the  'Erebus'  and  'Tenor,'  in  1.^10,  in  this  position,  it 
is  clear  that  the  Franklin  expedition,  whoso  commander,  with  others, 
liad  previously  ascertained  the  existence  ol'  a  channel  along  the  north 
I'oast  of  America,  with  which  the  tro2,en  sea,  wherein  he  was  beset,  had 
!t  direct  conuiiunication,  had,  in  a  geographical  sense,  firmly  established 
the  existence  of  a  Northwest  passage." 

At  the  same  meeting  the  Patron's  Medal  was  awarded  to  Captain 
(now  Admiral)  i'.  L.  McClintock,  the  President  saying  for  the 
Society,  "All  the  devotion  of  a  Lady  Franklin,  and  the  efforts  of 
the  Bnfsh  nation,  might  well  have  failed  in  unravelling  the  fate  of 
the  'Erebus  "and  'i error,'  had  not  such  a  "ommander  been  selected 
for  the 'Fox.'" 

A  monument  costing  two  thousand  pounds,  erected  in  Waterloo 
Place,  London,  bears  the  inscription :  — 


FKANKLIX. 

To  the  Great  Navig.ator 

and  his  brave  Companions 

who  sacrificed  their  lives 

completing  the  Discovery  of 

The  Northwest  Passage, 

A.D.  1847-48. 

Erected  by  the  unanimous  vote 
of  Parliament. 


This  statue,  voted  by  the  nation,  was  unveiled  in  the  jjrpsence  of 
the  first  lord  of  the  admiralty,  Sir  J.  Packington,  and  of  the  distin- 
guihhed  Arctic  explorers  and  geographers,  Collinson,  Onrmaney,  Srbine, 
Murchison,  Osborn,  and  Kawlinson,  Mr.  John  Barrow,  Mr.  Arrow- 
smith,  and  others,  with  Lady  Franklin,  who  declared  the  likeness  of 
her  husband  excellent  and  characteristic.  He  is  represented  as 
informing  his  officers  and  crew  that  the  Northwest  passage  has  been 
discovered.  A  panel  represents  Crozier  reading  the  funeral  service 
over   Franklin  in  1847. 


■ 

i 

^     '  ^flflf! 

>          i.t.lf.:lsl 

, ,;,  i,:, 

f^MH 

'   kli 

f  Sf'flRHI 

m 

ill 


"i 


I 


*i 


40 


AMKIJK'AN    EXPLORATIONS    IN    THK   ICE   ZONES. 


Ill  1875  a  boautifiil  iiioiiuiuont,  ordered  by  Lady  Franklin,  who 
inispeeted  it  shortly  hdorc  her  <leath,  was  plaeed  in  Westminster 
Aiibey.  It  is  ol'  Caraia  marble,  having  in  bas-relief  an  iee-bound  ship, 
and  the   inseription,  — 

"O  ye  frost  and  cold!    ()  yo  ice  ami  snow! 
IJless  ye  the  Lord!" 

Followed  by  Tennyson's  lines:  — 

*'  NDr  here:  the  white  Xorth  has  thy  bones,  iiiui  llioii, 
Heroic  Sailor  Soul, 
All  i>assing  on  thy  happier  voyage  now 
'I'owanl  no  Earthly  I'ole." 

And  (H)iu'luding  witli   tli(»   words:  — 

'•  Erected  by  his  widow,  who,  after  long  waiting,  and  sending  many  in  search  of  him, 
herself  departed  to  find  him  in  the  realms  of  life." 

The  facts  which  these  and  other  memorials  eoiuinemorate  being 
unknown,  as  has  been  said,  until  the  year  1851),  America  heartily  joiiu'd 
in  the  relief  expedition  of  1850,  to  which,  in  connection  with  subse- 
({iient  American  explorations,  this  narrative  now  turns. 


CIIAPTHIl   ir. 

TIIK  (JUINNELL  KXI'KDITIONS.  —  T.EVIVINC  AFJCTIO  EXl'LOHATION. — 
PWKSIDKNT  TAYLOU's  iMESSAiii-:  TO  '(L\(:H»:SS  TI! ANS.M1TTIN(}  (JOK- 
ItKSroNDENCK  WITH  LADY  KUANKLIN.  —  RESOLUTION  AUTHOUIZlN(! 
THE  EXPEDITION  AIM'KOVED  MAY  5,  IKA).  —  MR.  GRl^NELLS  MEMO- 
RIAL SUIM'ORTEI)  IIY  CLAY,  SEWARD,  AND  PEAROE,  IN  THE  SENATE. — 
OKEICERS  OF  THE  FIRST  EXPEDITION.  —  INSTRUCTIONS  OF  SECRETARY 
PRESTON  TO  DeHAVEN,  WHO  SAILS  FROM  NEW  YORK  MAY  22,  isno. 
—  DISPATCHES  FROM  ST.  JOHNS  AND  THE  WHALE-SHIP  ISLANDS. — 
Di  haven's  report  of  THE  (JRAYES  FOUND  AT  BEECHEY  ISLAND. — 
HE  ARRIVES  AT  ORIFFITH  ISLAND.  —  DRIFTS  NORTHWARD. — GEO- 
ORAPHICAL  DISCOVERIES.—  EASTWARD  INTO  BAFFIN'S  BAY.  —  FREED 
FROM  THE  ICE  JUNE  10,  IS")!. —  A(JAIN  KELFASED,  AUG.  18.  — SAILS 
FROM    HOLSTEINBORG,  SEPT.  (5.  —  ARRIVES   AT  NEW   YORK,  SEPT.  30. 

TIIK  records  of  the  State  and  Navy  Departments  show  that  each 
of  tliese  voyages  in  search  of  Franklin  is  to  be  credited  to  the 
special  and  long-cheiished  interest  of  Mr.  Henry  Grinnell,  of 
New  York,  who,  to  the  very  last,  entertained  a  hope  of  the  safety  of 
the  missing  navigators.  I^ady  Franklin,  in  two  letters  dated  April  4 
and  December  11,  1849,  respectively,  had  addressed  President  Taylor 
soliciting  the  aid  of  the  United  States  (Government  in  the  search.  In 
the  lirst  letter  she  expressed  her  gratification  at  the  respect  and  cour- 
tesy received  on  her  visit  to  tlie  United  States  three  years  previously, 
and  esi)ecially  at  the  interest  which  she  had  found  to  be  felt  in  the 
enterprise  in  which  Sir  John  was  known  to  be  engaged.  Referring 
also  in  brief  to  the  British  expeditions  sent  out  since  the  year  1847  in 
proof  that  her  own  (Tovernment  "had  not  forgotten  the  duty  to  brave 
Mien  sent  on  a  pei'ilous  service,"  Lady  Franklin  adverted  to  the  fact 
tliat  the  Admiralty  reward  of  twenty  thousand  pounds  for  any  ellicient 
assistance  had  been  offered  too  late  for  the  British  whalers,  who  had 
then  already  sailed.     She  therefore  looked  "with   more  hope  to  the 

41 


I  n 


\  \ 


I\ 


42 


AMKIMCAN    EXl'LOHATIONS    IN    THK    ICK   ZONES. 


whalers,  both  in  the  AtUintic  and  Pacific 


imencan  wlialers,  both  in  the  Atlantic  and  I'acitic,  as  competitors  for 
the  prize,  being  well  aware  of  their  strength  and  bold  spiiit  of  enter- 
prise." She  added,  " I  venture  to  look  even  beyond  these:  I  am  not 
without  hope  that  you  will  deem  it  not  unworthy  of  a  great  and  kin- 
dred nation  to  take  up  the  cause  of  humanity  which  I  plead,  in  a 
national  spirit,  and  thus  generously  make  it  your  own."  Cherishing 
the  hope  that  the  Russian  Government  would  send  out  exploring  par- 
ties from  the  Asiatic  side  of  Behring's  Strait,  she  said  :  "  It  would  be 
a  noble  spectacle  to  the  world  if  three  great  nations,  possessed  of  the 
widest  empires  on  the  face  of  the  globe,  were  thus  to  unite  their  efforts 
in  the  truly  Christian  work  of  saving  their  perishing  fellow-men  from 
destruction." 

To  tills  letter  the  Secretary  of  State,  Mr.  Clayton,  replied  for  the 
President,  that  the  appeal  was  such  as  would  strongly  enlist  the  sym- 
patliy  of  the  rulers  and  the  people  of  all  portions  of  the  civilized 
world. 

"To  the  citizens  of  the  United  States,  who  share  so  largely  in  the 
emotions  which  agitate  the  public  mind  of  your  own  country,  the 
name  of  Sir  John  Franklin  has  been  endeared  by  his  heroic  virtues 
and  the  sufferings  and  sacrifices  which  he  has  encountered  for  the 
benefit  of  mankind.  The  appeal  of  his  wife  and  daughter,  in  their 
distress,  has  been  borne  across  the  waters,  asking  the  assistance  of  a 
kindred  people  to  save  the  brave  men  who  embarked  in  his  unfortunate 
expedition ;  and  the  people  of  the  United  States,  who  have  watched 
with  the  deepest  interest  that  hazardous  enterprise,  will  now  respond 
to  that  appeal  l)y  the  expression  of  their  united  wishes  that  every 
proper  eflbrt  may  be  made  by  this  Government  for  the  rescue  of  your 
husband  and  his  companions. 

"To  accomplish  the  objects  you  have  in  view,  the  attention  of 
American  navigators,  and  especially  of  our  whalers,  will  be  immedi- 
ately invoked.  All  the  information  in  the  possession  of  this  Govern- 
mert,  to  enable  them  to  aid  in  discovering  the  missing  ships,  relieving 
their  crews,  and  restoring  them  to  their  families,  shall  be  spread  far 
and  wide  among  our  people  ;  and  all  that  the  Executive  Government  of 
the  United    States,  in   the  exercise  of  its  constitutional  powers,  can 


effect 


PRESIDENT   TAYLOR  S    MESSACJK 


4a 


effect  to   meet   this   requisition   on   American    enterprise,   skill,   und 
bravery,  will  be  promptly  undertaken. 

"The  hearts  of  the  American  people  will  be  deeply  touched  h\ 
your  eloquent  address  to  their  chief  magistrate,  and  they  will  join  with 
you  in  an  earnest  prayer  to  Him  whose  spirit  is  on  the  waters,  that 
your  husband  and  his  companions  may  yet  be  restored  to  their  country 
and  their  friends." 

In  addition  to  the  reward  offered  by  the  Admiralty,  Lady  Franklin 
Jiad  herself  offered  the  sum  of  three  thousand  pounds,  or  a  proportion 
thereof,  according  to  the  services  rendered,  to  such  ship  or  ships  as 
should  afford  effectual  relief  to  any  portion  of  the  expedition.  In  her 
second  letter  of  December  11,  at  which  date  Sir  James  Ross  had 
returned  without  the  discovery  of  even  a  trace  of  the  expedition,  she 
again  appealed  to  the  President  for  his  recommendation  of  national 
assistance,  with  the  plea  that,  "  until  the  shores  and  seas  of  the  frozen 
regions  had  been  swept  in  all  directions,  or  until  some  memorial  should 
he  found  to  attest  their  fate,  neither  England,  who  sent  them  out,  noi- 
even  America,  on  whose  shores  they  had  been  launched  in  a  cause 
which  had  interested  the  world  for  centuries,  would  deem  the  questinn 
at  rest." 

January  22,  1850,  President  Taylor,  in  a  message  to  Congress, 
transmitted  the  correspondence  Avliich  has  been  here  named.  The 
President  said  that  he  had  anxiously  sought  the  means  of  affording 
assistance,  but  was  prevented  from  accomplishing  the  object  in  conse- 
([uence  of  the  want  of  vessels  suitable  to  encounter  the  perils  of  a 
proper  exploration,  the  lateness  of  the  season,  and  the  want  of  an 
appropriation.  All  he  could  do  was  to  cause  the  advertisements  of 
reward  promulgated  by  the  British  Government,  and  the  best  informa- 
tion he  could  obtain  as  to  the  means  of  finding  the  lost  sliips,  to  be 
widely  circulated  among  American  whalers  and  seafaring  men.  The 
propriety  and  expediency  of  an  appropriation  was  submitted  to  Ci  in- 
gress. A  board  appointed  by  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy  had  reported 
to  him  that  no  ships  were  ready  for  such  an  expedition  or  could  be 
equipped  in  season,  and  that  there  seemed  to  be  no  constitutional 
power  to  authorize  an  equipment. 


Ill 

i 

'If 

If 

;:-J|' 


f' 


M I 


I  !'• 


'  I 


i 


44 


A.MKltlCAN    KXPLOliATlONS    IN    TIIL:    ICK   ZONKS. 


TIk!  iiit'ssairo  of  the  President,  referred  in  the  House  to  the  Naval 


( 


lilt  fi 


the  eh 


Hon.  F.  r 


nan  of  that  eomniittee, 
Stanton,  a  favorable  report  in  the  form  of  a  Joint  Resolution,  by  which 
the  President  was  authorized  "to  aecept  and  attach  to  the  navy  two 
vessels  offered  by  iieniv  (Jrinnell,  Es(|.,  to  be  sent  to  the  ^Vrctic  Seas 
in  search  of  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  companions,"  and  to  "detail 
from  the  navy  such  connnissioned  and  warrant-ollicers  and  seamen  as 
may  be  necessary  for  said  expedition,  and  who  may  be  willing  to 
engage  in  it.  The  said  oflicers  and  men  shall  be  furnished  with  suit- 
able rations  for  a  period  not  exceeding  three  years,  and  shall  have  the 
ust'  of  such  necessary  instruments  as  the  departments  can  provide. 
The  said  vessels,  officers,  and  men  shall  be  in  all  respects  under  the 
laws  and  regulations  of  the  Navy  of  the  United  States  until  their 
return,  when  the  vessels  shall  be  delivered  to  Henry  Grinnell.  Pro- 
vided that  the  United  States  shall  not  be  liable  to  any  claim  for  com- 
pensiition  in  case  of  tlie  loss,  damage,  deterioration,  use,  or  risk  of  the 
vessels. 

The  Resolution,  reported  April  25,  was  passed  by  the  House  on  the 
following  day,  and  by  the  Senate  May  1 ;  it  was  approved  by  the  Presi- 
dent May  o,  1850. 

Lady  Fraidclin,  on  her  visit  to  the  United  States,  had  been  the  guest 
of  Mr.  (xrinnell,  whose  interest  in  Arctic  explorations  had  been  first 
aroused  by  a  letter  from  her  to  a  citizen  of  New  York,  asking  whether 
something  could  not  be  done  in  the  United  States  towards  the  rescue, 
and  had  been  increased  by  frequent  letters  subsequently  received 
from  her. 

In  the  early  s})ring  of  1856,  assisted  by  the  hearty  good-will  and 
personal  labors  of  Lieutenant  M.  F.  Maury,  U.S.N.,  Suuerintendent 
of  the  then  "  National  Observatory,"  he  presented  the  following 
memorial  to  Congress :  — 

"  The  interest  felt  in  the  fate  of  the  Franklin  expedition  is  not  con- 
fined to  tho  country  under  whose  flag  it  sailed.  Commerce  and  science, 
not  less  than  ])hilanthropic  benevolence,  are  deeply  interested  in  the 
efforts  now  making  for  the  discovery  of  the  missing  navigators.  While 
so  deep  and  generous  a  sympathy  pervades  the  civilized  world  on  this 


1 


m 


lM?l! 


.^m 


IIKNIiY    (iUINNKLL  S    MKMillMAL. 


4/ 


•> 


d 
it 

g 


suliji't't,  yciiii'  iiu'iiioiiiilist  t'ccls  stron^lj  dt'siroiis  tlnit  sonic  cllnit  he 
iiuide  by  his  country  to  signalize  its  zeal  in  mwAi  a  cause.  Kntcitaining 
ii  confident  helict'  in  tiu;  safety  of  the  expedition,  and  that  tlu;  gallant 
men  who  have  so  nobly  risked  their  lives  iii  the  cause  of  go;)grai)liieal 
science  may  yet  be  rescued  and  restore<l  to  their  country  and  their 
families,  the  earnest  desire  of  your  memorialist  is  to  contiibute  sonic- 
thing  to  so  lienelicial  a  result.  Moved  by  these  consideiati(»ns.  he  has 
prepared  and  is  now  fitting  out  two  vessels  of  the  ]»roj)er  size.  an<l  with 
ilie  needful    apj  ointments    to   j)rocecd   with   all   dispatch  to  the  ]»olar 


regions. 


"lie  has  l)een  i)ermitted  to  call  on  the  oflicers  of  the  Xavy  for  vol- 
unteers to  take  charge  of  this  expedition.  This  call  has  been  aiiswere(l 
with  a  zeal  and  nobleness  of  s[)irit  beyond  ])raisi',  without  the  jnomise 
or  hope  of  reward;  Lieutenant  Dellaven,  assisti'd  by  I'asscd  Mid- 
shipman (Jrifiin  as  second  in  command,  has  been  selecte<l  to  take  com- 
mand of  the  expedition. 

"It  is  the  opinion  of  this  othcer  and  of  others  that  it  is  of  the  first 
importance  that  the  ex})cdition  be  ])laced  under  naval  laws  diiriiig  the 
term  of  its  service.  Your  memorialist,  therefore,  prays  for  the  needful 
legislation  at  an  early  date,  in  order  that  time  may  be  afforded  for  the 
necessary  action  conse([uent  ujioii  it. 

"Your  memorialist  has  from  his  own  resources  provide<l  for  the 
principal  expenses  of  the  exi)odition.  It  would  strengthen  his  hope  of 
ultimate  success,  and  facilitate  greatly  the  object  in  view,  if  the  act  of 
Congress  should  authorize  the  word  to  be  i)assed  in  the  navy  for  vol- 
unteers among  the  men,  as  veil  as  the  oflicers,  limiting  to  fifteen  the 
numlxr  for  each  vessel.  Should  the  pay  and  naval  rations  be  deemed 
insufficient  by  the  crew,  your  memorialist  wishes  to  give  from  his  own 
purse  such  additioiud  sums  as  may  be  proper  and  satisfactory  to  the 
volunteers. 

"The  two  vessels  now  purchased  and  fitting  out  are  of  ninety-one 
and  one  hundred  and  forty-four  tons'  burden  respectively.  Every 
proper  means  will  be  taken  to  insure  strength  and  durability,  and 
power  to  overcoiiie  all  obstacles  in  the  way  of  success.  Tlie  paramount 
inducement  to  this  expedition  on  the  part  of  your   memorialist   is  the 


1! 


^l 


'I  i 


•  I 


^!  I   .^ 


4t; 


AMKKICAN    KX1M,()I:ATU)NS   IN    THK    KMC   ZONKS. 


rescue  of  Sir  Joint  l*'i'iiiikliu  aiul  h'm  coinpuiiioiis,  but  lie  shull  think  it 
<luo  U)  scieui'.o  t(t  instruct  the  oflicers  in  command  to  use  all  (liligeuec 
and  /oal  in  the  exi»loratiou  of  the  frozen  region  to  whi(^h  they  are 
hound. 

"There  are  <^ood  grounds  for  believing  this  to  be  a  propitious 
season  for  such  an  exploration,  and  he  shall  not  easily  r(!lin(iuish  the 
hope  of  his  being  in  some  degree  instrumental  in  solvijig  the  long- 
disputetl  (iU((stion  of  the  Northwest  i)assage  frcuu  the  Atlantic  to  the 
Piicilii!. 

'•  ll(»|)ing  tliat  your  hoiKirable  body  will  give  the  subject  an  early 
and  favorable  consideration,  your  memorialist  will  ever  pray,  o.Ui. 

(Signed)  "JIknuy  (iJilNNELL." 

Henry  Cliiy,  in  prc^senting  the  memorial,  which  secured  the  passage 
of  this  resoluiion,  said  of  Air.  (Jrinncill,  "I  am  })roud  of  the  numner  in 
which  the  mercantile  i-lasses  of  our  country  administer  in  all  great 
entorj)rises  the  wealth  wliich  they  have  ac(juired  in  the  |)ursuit  of 
business.  Among  the  most  eminent  of  these  merchants  stands  the 
gentleman  whose  petition   1   prt>sent. 

"1  am  very  ninth  afraid  that  the  unfortunate  person  and  his  coni- 
])iinions  whose  fate  Mr.  (ninnell  and  the  world  are  so  anxious  to  learn 
will  be  iound  to  be  no  more.  J5ut  if  the  enterprise  should  fail  to  dis- 
cover their  existence,  or  even  their  fate,  the  attempt  will  be  gratifying 
to  the  whole  world:  and  if  nothing  whatever  is  discovered  in  respect 
of  thein,  useful  discoveries  may  be  made,  which  will  add  to  the  amount 
of  information  we  ])ossess,  and  amply  repa}'^  any  expenditure  that  may 
be  incurred  by  our  granting  the  praj'er  of  the  petitioner." 

To  the  objections  made  by  Senators  King  and  Foote,  that  it  is 
inconsistent  with  the  dignity  of  the  Government  to  mix  itself  up  thus 
with  a  private  enterprise,  and  that  it  W(»uld  be  better  for  the  United 
States  to  send  out  its  own  expedition,  it  was  replied  by  Senators  Mil- 
ler and  Seward  that,  owing  to  the  lateness  of  the  season,  this  was  not 
practicable,  and  that  the  vessels  would  become  national  vessels  for  the 
time  in  which  they  would  be  engaged,  naval  discipline  being  asked  for 
by  the  memorialist  as  a  necessity ;  further,  that  all  our  enterprises  are 


propcM" 
u|iinioii 
this  (i( 


THK   "ADVANCK"    and  TiriC   ''ItKSClTK. 


47 


more  «»r  lc«s  oaniod  into  execution,  not  by  the  direct  action  of  the 
(Joveinnient,  l)ut  hy  lending  its  aid  and  conntenanee  to  individuals, 
corporations,  states,  eoHej^c  .,  or   r.niversities. 

To  the  objection  raised  by  Senator  .lelb-rson  Davis,  that  it  is  im- 
proper to  a[)propriate  money  for  the  purpose,  of  the  (M'ror  of  wiiieh 
opituon  he  said  he  "couhl  only  l)e  (ionvinced  by  its  being  shown  that 
this  (lovernment  is  not  a  corporation  forvuil  hy  the  Stat.en,  with  limited 
iiowcrs  and  lor  speciiic  jjurposes,"  no  reply  a|)pears  to  hav(;  been  made. 


Sailing  ov  tiik  Kiust  Expedition,  May  -J^,  IHi'iO. 

On  the  I5th  of  May,  1850,  Secretary  Preston  gavi'  to  Lieutenant 
Dcdiaven  his  instructions.  The  lieutenant,  in  expeiitation  of  the 
]»assago  of  the  resolution  by  Congress,  had  becm  in  New  York  for  sev- 
eral weeks,  and  had  been  closely  occn[)ied  in  fitting  out  the  two  shij)S 
olTered  by  Mr.  Grinnell.  'i'he  expedition  consisted  of  the  brigantines 
"AdvaiKie,"  144  tons,  and  the  "Kescue,"  of  91  tons  burden.  It  was 
the  opinion  of  experienced  otlicers  that  vessels  of  about  these;  dimen- 
sions, drawing  not  above  ten  feet  of  water,  would  answer  as  well  as 
larger  shifjs  the  purpose  of  a  careful  search.  They  were  ollicered  as 
below:  — 

^''Advanec.'" 

Lieutenant  Edward  J.  Del  Liven,  connnanding  the  expedition. 

Passed  Midshipman  William  11.  Murdaugh,  tirst  ollicer 

Midshipman  William  J.  Lovell,  second  ollieer. 

E.  K.  Kane,  M.I).,  passed  assistant-surgeon. 


■':U 


^'^f 


\i 


1 


Acting  Master  Samuel  P.  Griflin,  commanding. 

Passed  Midshipman  Robert  11.  Carter,  acting  master  and  first  officer. 

Boatswain,  Henry  Brooks,  second  ofHcer. 

Benjanun  Vreeland,  M.D.,  assistant-surgeon.* 

*  Officers'  Record.  —  E.  .J.  DoIIaven  entered  the  navy  as  midshipman,  Oct.  2, 
1829;  promoted  to  be  passed  midshipman,  .July  o,  1835;  lieutenant,  Sept.  8,  1841;  retired, 
Feb.  n,  18()1 ;  died,  May  1,  18(5r).     Samuel  P.  (Jrirtin  entered  the  service  as  midshipman, 


!  i.    * 


IS 


AMKIMC  AN    r.\l'l,(ti;ATlnNS    IN     IIII,    K  i;    /.uNKS. 


Liciil.  Del  l;i\('ii    liml   seen    iifjiih    l\\ciit\    vciiis'  iia\  iii    scrx  i 


('•' 


illK 


Ii.kI   |i;issri|  lliinl|n|i  SdincI  liiliu'  of  ii   like  ('\|M'li('M(t'  willl  tli;il    srciiiiiiyl  v 
iinw   ImI'iiic   liiiii   when    in   ((UiiniaiKl   ul'  1  lie  '•  l'"l\  iiii;    l-'isli."  one   nl'  ilu- 


vessels    t>r    tlie    I   iiiled    Slat* 


(lit 


.r    IS.'IS 


.S.'.S.    Ill    Hie 


•sseis    HI     (lie    I   iiiieii    r^unes    explurnin'    cxiiedii  inii    ni 
Alitiiretie  Oeeaii,  iiiitler  Lieiil.  (liile  Admiral)    Wilkes. 

Ill  the  iiislruelioiis  I'loiii  the  Na\\  J  )e|»arhiieiil  Inr  llie  ex|i(Mli(inii, 
Seei'etaiv  I'reslun  siiyLj'esleil  as  llie  outline  of  its  eomse  tliat  tlie  sliips. 
alter  |tassiiio'  Haiiow's  Straits,  slimild  ttini  tlieii'  atteiitii>ii  northward 
to  Welliiintoii  Cjiaimel.  and  westward  to  Cape  Walker,  and  should 
then  he  i;dverned  hy  eireiinistaiiees,  -  sailiiin"  either  in  eonet-rl  or  sepa- 
lately.  They  were  to  enter  and  search  every  headland.  |iromontory, 
and  eons|iieiious  |ioiii(  for  siyiis  or  records  ol'  the  niissinii'  party;  hiil 
on  no  account  was  the  safety  of  oHiceis  or  .sliijis  to  he  ha/ar(h'd  hy 
niiiiecessary  exposure.  Should  laeuleiiant  Dellaven  lind  it  iini)ossilt|e 
to  reaeli  Mairows  Straits,  he  was  to  turn  his  attention  to  Jones'  aii*l 
Smith's  Sounds;  and  if  tliese  weie  found  to  he  either  closed  or  impeii- 
I'trahU'.  and  hi'  sliouhl  fail  to  secure  any  tiace  of  ihe  uiissiui;  expedi- 
tion, he  must  return  to  New  York,  as  the  season  would  prol>al)ly  he 
llii'ii  too  far  ;ii!vaiieed  for  any  further  attempt  to  he  made.  A  like 
]irovision  for  avoidiiii;'  a  second  winter  in  the  Arctic  reiyitMis  in- 
structed him  tliat.  if  after  eiitcriiiin'  llie  strait  he  should  he  iinahle 
to  penetrate  suiliciently  far  into  the  unexplored  regions  to  oain  a 
position  from  which  operations  could  he  fav(uahly  couinu'nced  in 
the  season  of  ISal,  he  was  ttt  iMideavor  t(»  escape  from  the  ii-e,  and 
return. 


Si'iil. ',1.  IS41:  promoted  to  lu-  lassod  iniilsliipiiiiin.  \\v^.  UK  1S4T.  William  Miinlaiiiili 
iMittMVii  tli(>  scr\  it'o  as  luiilsliipmaii.  Si'pt. '.'.  IStl:  promotoil  to  ln'  passfii  miil^liipiiian. 
Aui:.  10.  1S47:  uiastor.  Scpi.  14,  is.-).');  iitniliMiant.  Sept.  1(>,  IS.V);  n'siiiiiftl,  April.  IStil. 
William  J.  Lovoll  tMitonMl  the  scrvico  as  miilsliipman,  Nov.  S,  1S47;  pronioloil  to  ho 
passed  midshipman.  .Iiiiie.  IS.").!:  master.  S(>pt.  1.').  IS.m;  lieiUenaiit.  Sept.  1(5,  IS.'i.');  ro- 
si<;ned.  May  ;l.  IS.V.).  |{.  ]{.  Carler  entered  the  serviee  as  midshipman.  March  :>().  1>*4'J; 
promoted  to  he  passed  midshiimian,  Ausi.  1.").  1S4S;  master.  Sept.  1"),  1S.">.");  lieutenant. 
Sept.  10.  18").");  resiijiied.  May.  ISiil.  Dr.  E.  K.  Kane  entered  the  service  .is  .issistant- 
.snrsxeon.  .Inly  21.  1S4:);  promoted  to  be  jassed  assistant-siirueon,  Sept.  14,  1848;  died  in 
Ilav-ina.  Feh.  It!.  18,")".  Dr.  1>.  Vreeland  ent<>red  the  serviee  as  assistant-surgeon.  May 
0.  18.")0:  promoted  to  be  passed  assistaut-surgeon,  Mareh  ;!().  18.")7;  surgeon,  April  'M, 
18(il;  died.  Mareh  2().  18(5(5. 


Til. 
I'Vaiikl 
every 
route  t 
meet. 
lie 
hut    no 
III     vie\ 
the    tlu 
ill   whie 
lions  ha 
lie  possi 
dent  to 
self  in  { 
the    Will 
were    ini 
facility. 
Dellavei 
should    f 
cfleelual. 
At  till 
way  of  e 
addition 
liie  e.\p(M 
selves  I)r 
Arctic  se: 
hrio-  witji 
heing  eov 
iron  e.xtei 
water-tigfl 
rit'r  was  e 
"  Forw 
feet  from 
sides,  an  e 
Icet,  so  an 


I»>;HAVKN  H     INMTKlMTInNS. 


Il» 


Tilt'  rliicl"  ((hjccl  of  llic  rxjuMlitioii  (lir  st'iirt'li  lor  Sir  .Inliti 
Kniiikliii  n>(|iiirc(l  diiit  lor  this  lie  slioiild  use  all  (lili^cncc,  and  iii;ik(' 
rvt'ry  exertion,  nlVeriii^  iissistiinee,  and  eoniniiuiiciitin;.;  Iiis  plans  and 
route  to  any  llrilisli  parties  enj^fa;^tMl  in  a  like  search  wIkuu  he  nii;^dit 
meet. 

lie  was,  h(»wev(>r,  to  pay  attention  to  sulijeets  (»!'  sttiiMitilie  intiuiry.. 
hut  not.  to  allow  such  att(Mition  to  interfere  with  the  main  olijeet. 
In  view  of  the  I'aets  elicited  by  Lieutenant  Maury  in  supptut  of 
the  theory  of  a  i'olynia,  or  "open  sea,"  heyiuid  th((  icy  harrier, 
in  which  invest i<4;at ion  liieutenant  Dellaveii  had  shaicd,  his  instruc- 
tions had  in  view  the  hope  of  an  eutran(u>  into  that  basin.  And  shouhl 
he  possibly  |)enetiate  beyond  the  barrier  so  far  as  to  niakc!  it  more  pru- 
dent to  go  on  than  to  turn  back,  he  was  to  push  forward  and  put  him- 
self in  tu)mmunii'ation  with  any  of  the  I'liifed  Staters  forites  servinj^'  in 
ilie  waters  of  the  l*a(;itic,  o'  in  China.  The  ollicers  there  stationed 
weic  instructed  to  be  ri'ady,  in  such  event,  t<»  cdlei'  t(»  him  every 
facility.  Notwithstaiuliu<^  his  instru(!tions  on  these  and  otluu-  points, 
Dcllaven  was  j)erniittod  to  depart  from  th( m,  if  on  arrivinj;-  out  la; 
should  tind  that  by  so  (U)in<^'  his  search  wtudd  probably  l)e  mo)»! 
effectual. 

At  the  Brooklyn  navy-yard  the  cxj)odition  received  every  aid  in  the 
\\;iy  of  e(|uii»ment  usually  furnished  from  special  naval  stores,  and  in 
addition  Mr.  (Jrinnell  provi<led  far  more  for  the  object  and  cond'orts  of 
the  expeditit)n  than  was  asked  for  by  its  otticers.  The  vtisstjis  them- 
selves Dr.  Kane  has  described  as,  periuijts,  more  thorouj^ldy  ada})ted  for 
Arctic  service  than  any  prc^viously  fitted  out.  The  hull  was  dmiljle,  a 
brig  within  a  brig,  an  outer  oak  sheatliing  of  two  and  a  half  iiu-hes 
being  covered  with  a  second  of  the  same  material,  stri])s  of  heavy  sheet- 
iron  extending  from  bow  to  beam.  The  decks  were  double,  and  made 
water-tight  by  an  interlined  packing  of  tarred  felt,  and  the  entire  intt;- 
rior  was  ceiled  with  cork. 

"Forward,  from  kelson  to  deck,  was  a  mass  of  solid  timber  for  seven 
feet  from  the  cutwater;  and  tt)  prevent  the  ice  from  ft)rcing  in  her 
sides,  an  extra  set  of  beams  ran  athwart  her  length  at  intervals  of  four 
feet,  so  arranged  as  to  ship  or  unship.     From  the  Samson-posts,  shores 


I J 


,l! 


\ 


I        . 


5U 


AMKIMCAX    KXIM.OKATIONS   IN    TlIK    ICK    ZONKS. 


divoi-god  ill  ovi'i'v  direc tioii,  Mith  as  luaiiy  hauging  and  (»bli(iue  oaken 
kiio'\s  as  tho  space  jjerniitted.  The  rudder  could  be  taken  on  board 
and  rei)la<'ed  agiin  in  four  minutes.  In  all  respects,  everything 
about  the  two  vessels  bore  the  marks  of  intelligent  foresight  and 
unsparing  expenditure."' 

Of  tlie  n.iutical  equii)ment,  the  chronometers  were  especially  aj)- 
l)rov('d  ;  several  of  them  having  been  carefully  tested  at  the  Observa- 
tory, one  under  charge  of  i*assed  Midshipuum  INIurdaugh  varying  on 
the  cruise,  from  May  18,  1850,  to  October  <},  1851,  10  min.  45  sec.  By 
the  aid  of  Professor  Loomis,  Kane  had  collected  some  instruments  for 
thermal  and  magnetic  registration  ;  his  jirivate  journal  furnisues  a 
meteorological  abstract  of  more  than  thirty  pages  for  his  narrative 
of  the  expedition.  The  two  shi[)s  left  the  luxvy-yard  May  22,  crowds 
upon  the  wharves,  and  clieers  from  ferry-boats,  steamers,  and  sliips 
showing  the  ])opular  syn.pathy  until  the  Hattery  was  passed.  Off 
Saiu'-  Hook  friends  on  'ward  left  for  home.  Mr.  (Trinnell  and  his 
sons  continuing  to  bear  company  with  the  shij)S  in  a  pilot-boat  to 
a  point  reached  on  the  ii5th.  seventy-five  miles  further  east. 

The  commander  said,  in  his  farewell  report  to  the  Department,  that 
all  were  well,  and  s(>cmingly  inspired  with  the  right  s;  i'it  for  the  suc- 
cess I  if  the  exjiedition.  Otlicers  and  crews  were  volunt  ers ;  and  it  is 
to  their  lastinsj  credit  that  the  late  Admiral  Sherard  Osborn,  one  of 
the  most  distinguished  of  Hritish  Arctic  navigators,  should  have  been 
able  to  say,  '"I  was  charmed  to  hear  that  before  sailing,  oflicers  and 
men  had  signed  a  bond  not  to  claim,  under  any  circumstances,  the 
.£20,000  reward  A\hich  the  liritish  government  had  offered.  We,  1  am 
sorry  to  say,  had  acted  differently."  The  "-Advance"  reached  St. 
Johns,  Newfoundland,  June  8,  and  DeHaven  reported  that  the  east 
winds  and  several  giiles  had  occasioned  slow  progress ;  he  had  not 
unwillingly  parted  with  the  "  Kescue,"  whose  slower  sailing  qualities 
had  a(Mitionally  detained  him.  The  Whale-fish  Islands  were  to  be  the 
rendezvous.  Arriving  at  these  on  the  29th,  he  reported  that  on  the 
east  coast  of  Newfoundland  many  icebergs  had  been  met,  in  striking 
against  one  of  which,  in  lat.  49°  3',  the  '"Advance"  had  lost  a  jib- 
boom,      ['"roni  that  date  he  had  a  cl(>ar  sea  within  one  hundred  miles  of 


^4 


ili(>  isla 
i4)eig 
Fn)ni 


ic(4)eig 


hy    the 
search  ; 
Island, 
New   V 
The 
in    till' 
detail  ii 
(lition. 
rach  exj 
gular  qv 
brief  sk( 
Mlder,  0 
Horn 
lit  ted  fo 
ii    will  I 
:i  degree 
cxercisin 
Seemi 
Ills  sixte( 
\'irginia 
:nid,  dur 
lessor  U( 


range. 


universit 
;it  the  I 
class  in 
.'■j)ecial  sii 
I)]-.  Ki 
year  saih 
niodore  I 
under  the 
the  oppo] 


le 
111 
t. 

St 

es 

10 

w 


of 


'  4 


KANKS    KAKLY    LIKK 


51 


ilu^  islands;  tliu  "•  Uoscue,"  by  steering  I'mllier  east,  had  seen  but  tew 
icebergs. 

Kroni  the  ishmds,  ollieers  and  men  onee  nioro  sent  home  their  letters 
liy  the  storeship  of  Commodore  Austin's  squadron  there,  out  in  the 
search ;  their  next  and  last  were  sent  from  Port  I^eopold,  Beechey 
Island,  August  liJ},  no  furtiier  opjjort unity  ollering  vnitil  tludr  return  to 
New  York,  October  4,  I80I. 

'riut  history  of  the  expedition  from  the  date  of  August  29  appears 
ill  the  report  ol'  the  commander,  made  on  his  return,  and  more  in 
(h'taii  in  Dr.  Kane's  narrative  of  the  first  United  States  (Jrinnell  expe- 
dition. To  Dr.  Kane  the  world  is  indebted  for  the  graphic  history  of 
i'-.u-h  expedition,  as  well  as  for  his  brilliant  services  in  both.  His  sin- 
gular qualilications  for  each  calling  iire  best  referred  to  in  the  following 
luief  sketch,  drawn  chielly  from  his  biography,  written  l)y  Dr.  William 
l'>]der,  of  Philadelphia. 

Born  in  Philadelphia,  February  20, 1820,  he  early  developed  a  frame 
litted  for  athletic  exercises,  but  showed  tendencies  to  disease  which, 
ii  will  be  seen,  manifested  themselves  throughout  his  whole  life  to 
;i  degree  which  would  have  shut  out  from  active  dutv  anv  one  not 
exercising  the  iron  will  exhibited. 

SetMuingly  nnajipreciative  of  the  value  of  systematic  study  until 
his  sixteenth  year,  he  then  distinguished  himself  at  the  University  of 
\'irginia  by  his  pursuit  of  an  elective  course  in  the  natural  sciences, 
and,  during  tlie  short  period  which  his  health  })ermitted,  aided  Pro- 
lessor  Rogers  in  his  investigation  of  the  geology  of  the  Blue  JNIountairi 
range.  A  long  and  severe  illness  caused  him  to  withdraw  from  the 
university,  but  on  his  recovery  he  entered  on  the  study  of  medicine 
at  the  University  of  Pennsylvai  ia,  graduating  at  the  head  of  his 
class  in  his  twentieth  year,  with  the  honor  of  having  his  theme,  on  a 
special  subject  in   medicine,  recpiested  for  publication  by  the  Faculty. 

Di'.  Kane  entered  the  naval  service  July  21,  1843,  and  in  the  same 
yt'ar  sailiul   on   board   tlu^  United  States  frigate   '  Brandywine,'   Com 
niodor<^   Parker,  as  surgeon   to  the  Ignited  States  embassy  to  China, 
luider  the  late  Mr.  Caleb  ('nshing.     Touching  at  Rio  Janeiro,  he  had 
the  opportunity  of  examining  the  geological  eliaracter  of  the  eastern 


'Tlli 

Bh 

■'■ff 

:'  ,;|| 

^'''':  S 

'       Nliifl 

^  m 

^ 


,1!  i; 


:ii 


1 


i)'J 


AMKIMCAN     KXI'I.OUATION.S    IN     rillO    U'l')   /OMvS. 


Andes,  1111(1  oil  llu'  iiniviil  of  llic  ship  iil  I{oinl)iiy,  of  visiliiiy;  fli(' 
tiiiiKuis  cavciiH'tl  l('m|»I('s  ol"  l"]lt'|>liiiiilii,  aiiil  (»!'  crossini;'  iUv  (Jlianls  wl 
Kiiiidiiliili,  and  cxplorinj;'  the  cave  tcnijtlcs  of  Kaili,  |»aHsin,i>'  llicncc  to 
('('vion. 

lie  I'tMnaincd  in  ('((nnccliou  with  (lie  embassy  until  llie  el(kse  of  i(s 
work  bv  the  treaty  of  .Inly,  1SII,  and  thi>ii,  [troeurinj^  a  snhstitute, 
crossed  to  the  riiili|)|)ines,  traversed  the  island  of  liii/oii  IVoiii  Manilla 
to  the  I'aeilie  eoast,  and  deseende(l  (he  voleaiut  ol"  Tael  a  feat  Init 
onee  before  attempted  by  ,•  I'oreiyner.,  and  then  without  sneeess.  l\\ 
this  d(>seenl  he  subjeeied  i  imsell"  tr.  an  ene(»nnter  with  (he  natives, 
who  eonsidenMl   it   a   prolaiiii  'on. 

Alter    three    and    a    hall"      ears'    private    |>raetiee    as    siirncdi    at. 


W 


liampoa,  on  his  recovery  Iroiii   the  riet>    fever,  he  sailed    in   .laniiary 


ISI."),  for  SinyapoiH*,  and  thence  Irr  Alexandria,  visi(iii<;'  some  of  (he 
wonders  of  l\«xyp(.  He  was  si'ized  widi  the  playiu*,  on  reeoveriny'  from 
which  he  made  a  ri>s(orative  foo*  journey  in  (Jreece,  and  later  exam- 
ined tlu'  glaciers  of  tlu>  Alps  of  Swit/.erland,  to  whi»'h  ho  afterward 
iiad  occasion  t(t  maki>  lii'(|uent  references  in  his  ici"  theories  of  the 
Arc-lie   reuioiis. 

In  May  l"ollowin«;-  he  was  a^'ain  on  board  slii|>,  under  (U'ders  for 
the  coast  *d"  Africa,  «)ii  which  voyage  -  all hcMigli,  when  (he  fever  had 
broken  out  on  board,  he  had  wriKcii  of  his  t;-oo(l  lieaUli  —  he  was 
stricken  down,  and  S(>n(  home  invali.ted  by  Dr.  Dillard,  the  siiro'con 
o\'  the  tlet^t. 

When  i'onvali^si'(Mit.  he  was  an  early  a,-i)licant  for  duty  in  Mexico. 
The  war  between  (he  rnited  States  and  that,  country  had  witnessed 
the  snrrtMider  o(  (he  capital.  Or.  Kane  was  selected  by  I'ri'sident 
l\)lk  to  b(>  (lu>  bi>ar(>r  oi'  an  oral  dispa(cli  to  tlu>  <j^eiu>riil-in-e.hiof,  which 
had  three  times  failed  in  its  delivery  from  the  War  Department.  He 
was  oi'dered  alsd  to  make  sj)ecial  iuv(  sti<;"ations  of  facts  relating'  (o  (he 
(leld  and  liospital  organizations  of  the  vVmerican  army  for  the  War 
Dejnirtment. 

Tlireadint?  his  '.vay  throup;h  the  Mexican  ciuintry,  he  reccMved  a 
sever '  lance  n'ound  in  an  encounter  with  a  party  of  Mexicans,  frtuii 
the  etVect  o\'  which  he  lav  ill  until  Julv  followini^  in   IMiiladelphia.     In 


common    v 


OIUMOIJS  rn  in{.  kank 


I'l'hniiiiv,  1M1!>,  lie  WHS  iii;jiiii  (»M   iKiViil    service   on    hoiiid    llie   Hloiesliip 
■  Sii|)|)lv/'  and    retMi'iie<l    tu    IMiil!iilel|iliiii    IVoni    the    Medilettiineiin    in 
Scpleniher.      His  next   service,  \\h'   yvar   i\)\\*)\\'u\fj;,  was  aj^ain   on    the 
Mexican  eoasi,  on  duly   I<m'  the   Ihiilcc!   Stales  Coast.  Survey. 

Mis  apjilication  loi'  duty  on  the  lirst.  (Jiiniudl  exp«Mlition  was  lon^,' 
nnanswer<'(|,  probably  from  the  I'ccord  of  his  |tasl  iVe(|nent.  sev(!re.  i!l- 
iirsses;  hnt,  at.  the  moment  ol"  , 'it ire  (h'Spon(hMi(^y,  he  was  placed 
under  orders,  in  tlu^  ni;inner  wliicli  he  himsell'  best,  describes  as  lol- 
liiws:  "On  the  12lli  <d'  May  I  receive<l  one  (d'  those  courteons  lilth; 
epistles  from  Washington,  which  tlie  elect  ii(^  tcleeijiph  h;is  made  so 
iMiniliar  to  naval  oHicers.  It  detachccl  me  IVom  the  Coast  Survey,  and 
oidcreil  me  to  proceed  t'orthwith  to  New  Voik,  lor  <luly  on  the  Arctic 
(•\|ie(lition.  Seven  and  a  hall"  days  later  I  had  accdmplished  my  over- 
liind  journey  of  thirte(>n  hundred  miles,  and  in  iorty  hours  more  our 
s(|Uadi'on  was  bey<uid  the  limits  ol"  the  llnited  Stales.  The  Depart- 
ment. ha<l  (^alculaled  my  travelliun- tinie  to  ii,  nicely."  Il  was  ccrlaiuly 
llif  exhibition  (d"  most  exceptional  cliaiacteristics,  thai  one  who  had 
I  lie  ev(U-|)rosenl  c(tusc.iousness  ol"  liability  to  pidslration  by  dis(!as(; 
should  a.])ply  Tor  and  entci'  with  such  alacily  (Ui  duty  within  the  rigors 
ol"  the  Arctics  zoue.      lint  il  was  a  service  citniicnial   \r,  ins  nature,  and 


in    l<eepiu<;'  with    his  varied   experiences 


in   oilier   reuii^us.      His   rului(! 


records  will  show  with  what  skill  he  turned  all  those  exp(!riences  to 
t;(.(t(l  account,  iipplyinjr  (he  resourcM^s  gaiuc^d  from  the  natural  scienc(!S, 
and   from   exj)hnii(ioiis  in   other  /ones,  to   the  vvidely  dirfereut   lir(!  on 


WlU( 


h   1 


w   now   entertMi. 


June  17,  is')!),  wIkui  the  ships  drew  !iear  Davis'  Straits,  they  !'!>und 
lliemselves  near  Cape  Farewell  on  the  east,  and  I'^robishcu's  M(da 
lucojjfiiita  on  the  Atnericau  side.  The  Arctic;  days  Ix'^an,  (Ik;  ther- 
mometer beiijo-  read  at  ui^lit  without  a  lantorn,  and  the  sun  settin*^'  at 
leu,  to  rise  again  before  two.  On  ihe  24th  the  sun  did  not  |)ass  behiw 
llu>  horizon.  'I'he  words  ni<flil  and  day  benan  to  be  meanin<:jless,  and 
llie  soothini*' iulluence  ol"  darkness  was  mif^sed  at  th<!  berl-hour.  liut 
I  he  ref]jnlar  i-alls  tor  risino-  and  for  meals  were;  steadily  observed.  In 
common   with  all   others  resident  or  voyaging   in  the  Arctic  regi'us, 


I .« 


it 


. 


i  . 


i 


.>  !    i! 


,,Ms^      I 


w 


54 


A.MEIMCAN    KXPLOIIATIONS    IN    TIIIO    ICK   ZONKS. 


oHiccis  and  crew  now  found  within  thonisolves  tiie  power  ol"  Jidapta- 
tion  to  tlieir  niiw  (jircunistiinces ;  without  this  power,  light  and  dark- 
ness duriii<if  the  j)eriods   of  the;  zone  ('(jidd  not  he  endured. 

From  th(!  Whale-iish  Ishinds  the  passage  to  Lancaster  Sound  was  to 
be  made  by  on*,  (jf  the  three  crossings,  —  tiie  south,  the;  michlle,  or  tlie 
northern. 

Hy  the  first  of  these,  vessels  reach  the  American  side  south  of  (IS". 
It  is  l)iit  llie  alternativf!  for  whalers  when  I'ailing  to  cross  {\n\ 
North  Water.  Attempts  of  the  mi(hiie  passiigc;  iiic  r;ire.  In  1S11), 
Parry  lirst  crossed  it  in  seven  days,  but,  on  rejx'ating  the  (^X[)eriment, 
'uly,  iHii-l,  was  forcMid  to  turn  nortliward,  and  did  not  reac^h  the  o[)en 
water  till  Septend)ej'.  The  north  passage  j)asses  westward  from  tia; 
ic(!  t)f  iMiOville  Bay,  through  a  comparatively  open  area,  known  as  the 
I'orth  Water,  and  through  this,  ships  generally  reach  the  highway  of 
Arctic  seaic'li.  'I'his  (crossing  was  now  the  object  of  the  exj)edition. 
The  bay  itself,  ice-clogged  and  full  of  dangei',  had  been,  since;  its 
ojx'uing  in  1(SlI),  the  sc-ene  of  the  loss  of  two   hun(b'(Ml  and   ten  ships. 

The  time  for  r(!acliing  the  North  Water  varies,  as  Didlavcm  well 
k/ew,  with  the  season.  Parry's  ihslay  was  to  be  contrasted  with  that 
of  the  live  days  of  Sir  John  lioss  in  182t);  Austin,  now  out  in  the 
search,  was  found  to  have  been  kept  back  forty-live  days;  and  it  may 
be  mentioned  here  that  eight  years  afterwards,  McCliidock,  in  the 
" P\)X,"  passed  a  dreary  winter  in  the  pack.  "Nothing,"  Ik;  said,  "is 
more  uncertain  than  ice  navigation ;  one  can  only  calculate  ii{)on  the 
chances."  Avoiding  the  nuddle  passage,  on  the  tith  of  July  Dellaven 
was  in  lat.  72°  54',  ])eating  to  windwai-d,  bcitween  the  pack  and  the 
land;  on  the  8th  he  was  boring  and  sometimes  warping  —  "iielp- 
lessly  fast."  After  an  impristniment  of  twenty-one  days,  during  which 
he  had  made  an  average  northern  })rogress  of  about  a  nule  a  day,  a 
steady  nortli  and  northwest  breeze  began  to  relax  the  ice,  and  on  th(; 
10th  of  August  he  was  crossing  Melvilh;  Hay.  Midday  gave;  them  the 
warm  skies  of  the  Mediterranean,  and  on  the  18th  the  ex])edition 
reached  its  most  northern  i)oint  in  Baflin's  Bay,  latitude  7(5°  25',  the 
next  day  entering  Lan(;aster  Sound.  Crowding  all  sail  for  Port  Leo- 
pold, Beechey  Island,  they  now  had  tlie  pleasant  sight  of  two  of  the 


North 


IN    TIIK    NUUTII    WATHIl. 


66 


relit'l"  sliij)S  of  that  year,  the  "Felix,"  Sir  John  Iloss,  and  (lie  "  I'rincc 
Allx'i't,"  Cajtlain  Foi'syth.  In  ('oM('(!it  with  the.se  ollieers,  the  liist 
traeeb  of  tiie  missing  shi[)S  weie  now  found. 

From  Fort  Leoi)ohl,  Dellaven  repealed  to  tlie  Department  lh;it  lie 
had  fonnd  little  dil'lieulty  in  I'oreing  his  way  to  that  point  nntil  lie  liad 
reached  latitude  74°,  where  the  ice  had  eloscid,  and  was  eontinuons 
along  the  land,  so  that  northward  progress  was  harred,  whilt!  a  clear 
and  wide  opening  to  the  west  tem[)ted  his  course  in  (liiil  direction. 
After  a.  run  ol'  forty  miles,  however,  the  shi[)s  were  \v(;(lged,  and 
iiMuained  so  till  fluly 
•J.[),  when  tlu!  ice  sud- 
(hfuly  oj)ening,  and  a 
southeast  wind  s])ring- 
iiig  up,  liicv  forced 
their  way  into  eUar 
water,  and,  aftcu-  an- 
other detention  in  lat- 
itude 7r>°,  longitude 
00°,  pushed  on  to  Cajjc 
York,  and  on  the  10th 
of  August  were  in  the 
North  Water.  Meet- 
ing soon  afttsr  Captain 
J'enny's  ships,  he  re- 
solved to  touch  at  Port  Leopold  with  them.  Here  he  met  with  an 
unexpected  discovery. 

In  his  final  report  he  says:  "Ou  the  25th  of  August,  1850,  off  Cape 
liiley,  the  'Advance'  was  hove  to,  and  a  boat  sent  ashore  to  examine 
a  cairn  erected  in  a  cons[)icuous  position.  It  was  found  t(»  contain  a. 
record  of  II.B.M.  ship  'Assistance,'  d(!positc;d  tlu;  day  before,  con- 
taining th(!  information  that  Captain  Ommancy,  R.N.,  had  discovered 
traces  of  an  encampment,  and  other  indications  of  a  (!amj)ing-ground 
of  some  civilized  or  hunting  party.  Fragments  of  ])ainted  wood  and 
preserved-meat  cans  were  also  picked  up  on  tlut  low  ])oint  of  the 
Cape.      Our   speculations   at    once    connected    them   with    the    object 


TMK    f'UOW  S    NKKT 


rl 


f"i 


■l.i  p 


I 


r)»; 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS    IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


of  our  search.     Cai)taiii  Griffin,  of  the  'Rescue,'  had  shared  in  these 
discoveries." 

Of  these  traces  Kane  says,  that  although  they  were  meagre  indica- 
tions, the  conciiisi<»n  they  led  to  was  irresistible.  Bird-bones  and  the 
ril)  of  a  seal  were  found  in  a  centre,  around  which  a  party  seemed  to 
liave  sat  eating,  and  with  the  tins  were  other  relics,  such  as  pieces  -ol'  a 
garment,  and  parts  of  a  boat,  a])parently  collected  for  kindling  wood. 
1'iiese  could  not  have  been  the  work  of  Eskimos,  and  Pariy,  the  only 
European  who  before  this  had  visited  the  Cape,  had  not  encamped 
here.  The  indications  were  those  of  a  land  part}'  from  Franklin's 
s(|Uiidron. 

I)e Haven  pressed  onward  along  the  eastern  shore  of  Wellington 
riianncl.  Passing  Beechey  Island,  and  running  through  a  narrow  lead, 
lie  found  the  ice  above  Point  Innes  fixed  and  unbroken  from  shore  to 
slioiv  —  generally  eight  feet  thick,  the  sharp,  angular  hummocks  rounded 
down  by  the  iiction  of  the  weather.  Further  progress  to  the  north 
was  out  of  the  question.  Returning  to  Point  Innes  for  security  until  a 
favorable  change  should  take  place,  he  found  himself,  on  the  27th,  in 
com])any  with  two  English  commands  —  Sir  Jt)hn  Ross's  and  Penny's. 

('aj)ttiin  Penny,  in  company  with  Dr.  Goodsir,  brother  of  an  assist- 
ant-surgeon on  board  the  missing  vessels,  here  reported  that  they  had 
found,  between  Cape  Spencer  and  Port  Innes,  scraps  of  newspapo''  of 
the  date  (»f  1844,  with  other  paper  fragments  bearing  the  name  of  an 
officer,  and  other  small  articles  of  personal  wear.  Consulting  with 
Ross  and  Penny,  a  joint  search  was  tlien  instituted  along  shore  in  all 
directions.  In  a  short  time  one  of  Pennj^'s  men  reported  the  discovery 
or  graves,  and  the  conunanders,  I)e Haven,  Penny,  and  Piiillips,  joined 
by  a  i)arty  from  the  "Rescue,"" after  a  weary  walk,  found  the  three 
memorials  which  follow.  They  were  painted  headboards,  with  inscrip- 
ti(  ns  cut  by  the  chisel:  — 

"  Sacrod  to  (ho  memory  of 

W.   BUAINK,   U.M., 

H.M.S.  EuEBiis. 

Died,  April  'l,  1840, 

iiged  ;!2  years. 

'Choose  ye  this  day  wliom  yo  will  servo.'  —  Joshua  eh.  xxiv.  15. 


n 


'  i 


Th 


THE  THIIEE  (JUAVES.  67 

"  Sacred  to  tho  menioiy  of 
•  JOJl.N  IlAItTNKI.r,,  A.B.,  of  TT  M.S. 

Ehkbl's, 
aged  23  years. 

'  Thus  sailh  the  Lord,  consider  your  ways.'  —  Hiiggai  ii.  7. 

"  Sacred  to  the  memory  of 

John  Toi{Uin(jton. 

who  departed  this  life,  Jau'y  1,  a.d.  i84(>, 

on  board  of 

H.M.  Ship  Ti;i:Koit,* 

aged  2U  years." 

TliL'st'  sad  ineiuorials,  with  ii  serios  of  mounds  lillod  witli  fragment- 
arv  remains  (some  of  them  written  astronomical  and  other  notes), 
and  especially  rows  of  six  hundred  preserved-meat  cans,  ])roved  be- 
yond dispute  that  the  missing  ships  had  made  some  stay  heie.  The 
cans  liad  been  em[)tied,  and  tilled  with  limestone  pebbles,  probably  to 
serve  as  baUast  on  boating  expeditions.  At  Cai)e  Kilev  and  Beechey, 
another  cairn,  found  in  a  conspicuous  position,  was  dug  round  in  every 
direction,  and  between  the  hills,  which  come  down  towards  Beechey 
Island,  the  sear(>hing  parties  of  the  "Rescue,"  and  Mr.  Murdaugh  of 
tiie  *'Advaiu-e,"  lound  the  tracks  of  a  sledge  clearly  defined,  and  unmis- 
takable, both  as  to  character  and  direction,  pointing  to  the  eastern 
shores  of  Wellington  Sound.  Additional  proofs  of  Franklin  having 
organized  sledge  parties  were   found  in   the  tracK,-,  of  sledge  runiiers 


it 


■  M' 


*  In  1858  Lieutenant  McClintoclc  piacfd  ]u'iv  n  iii!irl)le  tablet,  wliicli  liud  been  con- 
slructed  in  ISew  York,  under  the  direction  of  Mr.  (iriiuicll,  by  request  of  Lady  Franklin, 
;nul  which  Captain  llartstene,  U.S.N.,  in  1S.")">.  liad  been  xmable  to  take  to  this  place.  A 
small  tablet  is  also  to  be  found  here,  sent  out  by  Mr.  .Tohn  IJarrow.  in  memory  of  Lieu- 
tenant Hellot.  of  Franci!,  who  went  out  as  volnntecr  in  the  English  expedition  of  IBoo, 
and  i>erished  in  the  i(;o.     Lady  Franklin's  monument  rea<ls  :  — 

"Franki-tn, 

CUOZIEll,    FlTZ.IAMKS. 

anil  .'ill  tlieir  • 

y;all;mt  Ix'otlicr  officers,  uiiil  faitlifiil 

companions  wlio  have  sulVered  and  pevislied 

in  the  cause  of  science,  and  the 

service  of  tlieir  country, 

THIS  TABLKT 

is  erected  near  tlie  spot  wlicn," 

thev  passeil  their  first  Arctic 

winter,  and  wlience  tliey  issued 

fortli  to  eoii(|uer  ditticulties  or 

TO   DIK." 


1. ; 


i-.:.^M 


;l  :,,(U 


h.r 


68 


AMEKICAN    KXl'LOKATIONS    IN    TIIK    K'K   ZONKS. 


still  visible  in  the  limestone  enist  and  u\h)u  snow-slopes;  on  wliiu!: 
Kane  ifniaiks,  "It  was  startling  to  see  the  cvidenees  of  a  travel  nearly 
six  years  okl  jtreserved  in  intaglio  on  so  perishable  a  material.  The 
alternations  ol"  cono'elalion  and  lliaw  give  to  the  Arctie  snows  at  time? 
an  it;e-like  dnrabilily,  Iml  these  *.'\.<.  >  Iiad  1 
snows  ot"  live  winters." 

These  !'cw  menu)rials  ol"  the  n^ivigators,  so  h)ng  h)st  to  history,  v,'{  re 
all  that  told  of  them.     Mot  a  written  memorandum  could  be  found. 


icen   <'i!vered  bv  the  ai'ter- 


or 


[xtinting 


eross,    or    even 


the 


vauuest  in- 


timation ( 


f  tl 


le 


THE  THHEF  GRAVES. 


intentions  en- 
tertained by 
Franhiin  Avhen 
;;t  this  ])oint. 
His  route  was 
to  be  learned 
only  from  the 
explorations  to 
be  made  at  a 
much  later  date 
by  McClintock. 
The  world  can 
never  know  anything  of  the  written  notices  which,  according  to  his 
instructions,  Franklin  was  to  deposit  at  this  place. 

From  the  date  of  these  most  intorebting  disoiveries  DeIIav;n 
endeavored  to  push  westward  and  northward,  reaching  ?^arlow's  Inlet 
September  4,  and  passing  tln-ough  a  lead  along  the  south  side  of  Corn 
wall  is  Island,  where  the  English  searching  vessels  were  descried,  fast 
in  the  ice.  Tliis  western  lead,  however,  closing,  he  was  also  compelled 
to  make  fast,  and  the  ice  being  exceedingly  unfavorable  for  further 
progress,  and  the  season  far  advanced,  after  consultation  with  the  com- 
mander of  the  "  Rescue,"  he  decided  that  according  to  his  instructions, 
as  they  "had  not  gained  a  jioint  from  which  advantageorts  operations 


•3 


(. 


■     ' 


U3 


TirK  sirri's  im'.skt. 


5f» 


could  be  coTmiinncod,"  it  Avas  an  impenitivt'  duty  to  cxtriciitc  I  lie  shi|)s 
and  return  Ijomo.  September  13,  he  signalled  to  the  "Rescue"  to 
cast  off. 

Hut  the  return  within  that  season  was  (luickly  overruk'd  \>\  I'oreos 
.itierly  beyond  control.  iVl'ter  leaving-  their  English  friends,  the  two 
s!iii)S  of  JjieutciuP't  Dellavcn  were  caught  last  in  the  new  ice  in  the 
midst  of  Wellington  Channel,  and  although  the  wind  for  a  short  sea- 
son bore  from  the  north  and  east,  the  drift  I)Cg;tn  stcadilv  .o  set  north- 
ward up  the  channel.  Thr'>noli  the  whole  ol'  October  and  Novenii;c 
the  changing  winds  dvit'ted  ihem  hel[)less  to  and  fro,  but  nevcn*  drove 
them  out  of  the  strait.  From  Decend)er  1,  the  (^astAvard  drift  bronght 
them  by  January  14  into  Ratlin's  liay.  Here  tla^  ice  around  the  ves- 
sels soon  became  again  cemented  and  lixed,  but  the  ships  kept  di-iving 
scmthward  along  with  the  whole  mass  until  the  close  of  the  iirst  week 
in  June.  Cut  out  as  usual  with  saws,  axes,  and  crowbars,  and  with 
the  rudders  again  shipped,  they  then  forced  their  way  into  an  open, 
clear  sea  in  latitude  (')5°  ^50' ;  and  the  "Advance  "  a  second  time  cast 
anchor  at  Disco  on  the  17th  of  Jidy;  tlu;  "Rescue."  which  had  more 
tlian  once  suffered  severely,  coming  in  next  day. 

From  Disco  the  ships  touched  again  at  Proven  and  Tpernavik. 
Alternately  closed  in,  and  then  with  hard  labor  released,  they  fimdly 
left  Holsteinborg  for  New  York  September  6,  1851.  The  commander, 
referring  to  the  instructions,  which  enjoi  led  him  not  to  spend,  if  it 
could  be  avoided,  more  than  one  winter  in  the  Arctic  regions,  had  of 
necessity  resolved  to  give  up  the  search,  "with  sad  hearts  that  our 
labors  had  served  to  throw  so  little  light  upon  it."  His  re])orts  and 
Kane's  narrative  dilate  at  large  on  the  traces  of  Franklin  which  have 
been  described,  and  upon  their  disappointments  at  two  later  dates,  at 
each  of  which  the  hope  of  renewed  efforts  had  lingered 

The  first  of  these  was  at  the  beginning  of  the  wintvT  of  1850-51, 
when  they  found  they  were  not  fixed,  as  they  had  hoped  w  '^e,  in  a 
position  from  which  operations  could  be  carried  on  by  travelling  par- 
ties in  the  spring :  "  the  slups  were  fast  being  set  out  of  the  region  of 
search."  The  remaining  disai)pcintinent  was  at  the  close  of  August  of 
the  second  year,  when  the  ships  stood  again  to  the  northwest  in  the 


*i5l 


1 

i/'i 

1 

.t;;.UiJl, 

m 


AMKUICAN    KXI'LOHATIONS    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZONEH. 


illliid  Sen,  hut  flic  h'iid    \)vi\ 


til 


at  the  disti 


iince  oi  a 

lew  iiiik's,  iiiid  the  ice  iijipi'ariii;^'  as  unlavuruble  us  ever,  they  did  not 
deem  it  prudciil  ttt  run  llic  risk  of  hcin^  af;'aiu  beset,  an<l  eoiisidered 
that  even  it'  sncct'ssru!  in  crossiiig  the  |)iici<,  it  would  be  too  late  to 
attain  ;i  point  as  I'lir  west  iis  liad  bi'cn  reatdied  the  year  previous. 

Jnijtortaut  geoj^iapliical  diseoveries  had  Ix'cu  secMired.  Dr.  Kane's 
jouruid  of  Se|)teiiib('r  -1  ami  'I'l,  at  the  date  named,  reads:  "When  in 
latituiU'  To"  nortli,  the  sky  heinj^'  I'lear,  and  the  position  ol"  the  sun 
t'ii\dr;d)h'.  I  s;i\v  distinctly.  Ix'iiriut;'  north  l)y  west,  a  series  ot'  hilltops 
(not  mountains),  ap|)iircnlly  of  tlic  same  couli<ijuration  with  those 
around  us.  and  sc|)arated  iVom  ("oruwallis  Island  by  a  strip  ol'  low 
bench,  or  l»y  \\iitcr  iind  hind  to  the  north  and  west;  its  horizon  that  of 
low  t^'round.  without  hlufl's.  and  ternnuatin^'  abruptly  at  its  northern 
end.  Still  further  on  to  the  north  vwnw  a  strip  without  visible  land 
a^ain.  with  mountiiin  to])s  distant  and  "rising  above  the  elouds.' "  To 
this  lai'n'e  mass  ol'  land  visible  between  northwest  to  north-northeast, 
which  Dellaven  also  distinctly  observed,  he  gave  the  name  of  Grin- 
nell  Land :  to  the  peak  bearing  north-northeast,  and  distant  about 
forty  miles,  the  name  of  Mount  Franklin  :  and  to  an  inlet  discovered 
by  Acting  ^Master  Grillin.  in  a  land  excursion,  tlie  name  of  Grillin 
lidei.  In  May  of  the  following  year  these  were  seen  and  visited  by 
one  i»f  the  oi'hccrs  of  ('a|)tain  Fenu}'.  On  the  admiralty  charts  and 
those  issued  by  the  Fnited  States  hydrographic  olHce,  Penny's  Strr>it 
and  (iriniiell  Liind  will  be  found  laid  down. 

When  the  .\merican  cx|)edition  had  found  itself  at  Murdaugh  Islet, 
near  Cornwallis  Ishmd,  a  wide  channel  a])i)eared  before  them,  leading 
to  the  westward,  the  frost  smoke  hanging  over  which  seemed  to  indi- 
cate a  large  area  (»f  open  water  in  that  direction,  and  the  signs  of 
animal  life  w'ere  abundant.  To  the  channel  appearing  to  lead  into  this 
su])posed  sea  Didlavcn  gave  the  name  of  "Maury,"  in  remendjrance  of 
the  investigations  on  the  theory  of  "an  open  ]»olar  sea,"  to  which  the 
instructions  of  the  Seca-etary  had  referred  him  as  having  shared  at  the 
Observatory.  The  conjectures  made  by  the  expedition  that  Fraidvlin 
had  passed  u])  this  channel  were  afterwards  eonlirmed ;  his  return 
through  it,  and  southward  drift,  added  nothing  in  favor  of  the  theory. 


("O.MMKNDATION    ()F   TMK    SKCIIKTAIIY. 


61 


It  hud  been  ai.  lulditionul  (li.siippoiutiiUMit  to  Dcnuvcii  and  his  utliccis 
that,  after  sij^ht  of  the  westward  channel  and  its  indications,  he  was 
debarred  from  pressing  forward  in  the  direction  in  whicli  lie  hciii'vcd 
the  greatest  chances  for  success  in  the  search  existed,  and  also  fnnn 
entering  within  the  in^'sterions  basin. 

Tlie  Secrf?tary  of  the  Navy,  in  his  report  of  Novendx-r  -H.  1H,">1. 
said :  — 

"Tlic  exi)edition  nnder  l-rientcnant-Coninianding  Dclliiven  to  tiic 
Arctic  seas,  in  search  of  the  liritish  commander,  Sir  .John  Fianklin,  and 
his  companions,  retnriuMl  to  the  [)ort  of  New  Voi'k  in  October,  having 
discovered  only  supposed  traces  of  the  objects  of  which  it  was  in 
(piest,  and  leaving  in  entire  uncertainty  their  actnal  fate.  The  vessels 
of  the  exitedition  proceeded  in  the  direction  where,  in  the  oi)inion  of 
the  best-informed  ofiKcers,  the  missing  navigators  are  to  be  songht.  and 
(tn  which  the  traces  in  (pu-stion  were  fonnd.  Thongh  failing  in  the 
main  object  of  their  search,  Lieutenant  DeHaven  and  his  ollicers  veri- 
fied by  their  explorations  many  facts  before  unknown  to  science,  l)iit 
indicated  in  the  course  of  investigations  carried  on  at  the  Naval  Obser- 
vatory, concerning  the  winds  and  currents,  and  to  which  reference  w;is 
made  in  instructions  for  the  expedition. 

"  In  this  expedition  tlie  officers  and  men  were  all  volunteers ;  in  its 
prosecution  they  encountered  the  greatest  dangers  and  hardships.  To 
mention  a  single  example :  their  vessel  was  caught  l)y  the  ice  and 
frozen  up  in  the  open  sea,  in  which  perilous  situation  they  were  con- 
fined for  nine  months,  and  drifted  to  and  fro  in  the  ice  for  more  than 
a  thousand  miles.  By  the  skill  of  the  officers,  and  the  mercy  of  a 
sui)erintending  Providence,  they  were  released  from  their  imprison- 
ment, and  restored  to  their  country  and  friends,  not  a  man  having  been 
lost  in  the  expedition.  They  have  received  no  other  pay  than  would 
have  been  due  on  a  cruise  to  Naples  or  the  Levant,  and  I  would 
respectfully  suggest  that  they  be  allowed  the  same  pay  and  bniol- 
uments  that  Avere  granted  to  those  in  like  positions  in  the  last  ex[)edi- 
tion  to  the  South  seas. 

"Mr.  Henry  Grinnell,  the  owner  of  the  vessels  employed  by  l^ieu- 
tenant  DeHaven,  has  generously  offered  them  for  another  cruise  in 


■'.•  ;i 


i  -  '  I  1 


il 


■41 1 


63 


AMEUiCAN    KXri.oUATIONS   IN    TIIK    ICK   ZONKS. 


i 


searcli  ol"  Sir  John  Franklin,  slionid  Coni^rcss  tliink   i)r()p{!r  to  order  a 
sccdiid  ('XptMlilidn." 

No  condensation  can  be  jnstly  nnido  ol"  the  graphic  notices  jonrnal- 
i/.cd  by  Kane  «»f  (he  natural  features  ol'  tlie  Arctic  zone,  its  icebergs, 
iiunnnocks,  and  Hoes,  and  especially  its  glaciers;  of  the  beautiful  dis- 
plays of  refraction  and  tli«'  auroras;  or  of  th(!  fauna  and  llora  exam- 
ined.    'I'lic  I'ornis  of  the  glacier  and  berg,  in  their  fantastic  varieties 


d 


.tly 


hi  to  h 


ami  swilt  translormations  ami  disappearance,  ire([uentiy  orougnt  to  ins 
ndnd  uu-mories  of  the  objects  visited  with  such  pleasure  in  the  Old 
VVoild.     Tliis  will  aj)pear  by  a  single  extract:  — 

'•July  o,  11  i'.M.  A  strip  of  horizon,  commencing  about  8°  to  the 
east  of  the  sun,  and  between  it  and  the  land,  resend)led  an  extended 
l>lain,  covered  with  the  dcbrin  of  ruined  cities.  No  effort  of  imagina- 
tion ^as  necessary  for  me  to  travel  from  the  true  watery  horizon  to  the 
false  one  of  refraction  above  it,  and  there  to  see  huge  structures  lining 
an  aerial  ociean  margin.  Some  of  rusty,  Egyptian,  rubbish-cloggetl 
projjyla,  and  hyptethral  courts;  some  tapering  and  columnar,  like  Pal- 
myra, IJaalbec ;  some  with  architrave  and  ])ortico,  like  Telmessus  or 
Athens,  or  else  vague  and  grotto-like,  such  as  dreamy  memories  recalled 
of  Ellora  and  Carli. 

"  I  can  hardly  realize  it  as  I  write ;  but  it  was  no  trick  of  fancy. 
The  things  were  there  half  fin  hotu"  ago.  I  saw  them,  capricious,  ver- 
satile, full  of  forms,  but  bright  and  delinite  as  the  phases  of  sober  life. 
And  as  my  eyes  ran  round  upon  the  marvellous  and  varying  scene, 
every  one  of  these  well-remembered  cities  rose  before  me,  built  up  by 
some  suggestive  feature  c  f  the  ice. 

"An  iceberg  is  one  of  God's  own  binldings.  preaching  its  lessons  of 
humility  to  the  miniature  structures  of  man.  Its  material,  one 
colossal  Pentelicus ;  its  mass  the  representative  of  power  in  repose ; 
its  distribution  sinudating  every  architectural  type.  It  makes  one 
smile  at  those  classical  remnants  which  our  own  period  reproduces  in 
its  Madeleines,  Walhallas,  and  Girard  Colleges,  like  university  poems 
in  the  dead  languages.  Still,  we  can  compare  them  with  the  iceberg ; 
for  the  same  standard  measures  both,  as  it  does  Chimborazo  and  the 
hill  of  Howth.     But  this  thing  of  refraction  is  supernatural   through- 


out. 

piiantah 

down,  \ 

obelisk^ 

idler  an 

(liiplica 

•VV 

could  n 

t'iintasti 

analysis 

laded  1 

tliey  rea 

Miy  men 

(bleed,  t 

The 

;ibove  hi 

:ill  sense 

instance 

".leannei 

of  Lieut. 

so  many 

lay  in  ob; 

value  in  i 

No  oc 

to   interf( 

and  thes( 

of  1851,  ' 

the  crews 

control  Iv 

cal  office 

and  the  e 

tion  was  i 

down   wii 

painful;  1 


AIM'TIC    PMAXTASMAdOKIA. 


G8 


it 


lit.  The  wildest  I'mlic  <•!'  an  ()i>iiiiii-('iitt'i''s  rovory  is  nothing-  to  the 
pljiinliisiiiiigoria  ol"  tin;  sky  lo-iii^lit.  Kaniaks  df  icr,  timit'd  u[)si(U' 
down,  were  rcistiiig  iijion  the  rainbow-colored  pedestals;  great  needles, 
(.l)(lisks  of  i>ure  whiteness,  sliot  U[)  above  their  false  horizons,  and, 
alU'f  an  honr-glass-like  contraction  at  thi'ir  point  of  union  with  their 
dn|)licated  images,  lost  themselves  in  the  bine  of  the  upper  sky. 

"While  I  was  looking  — the  sextant  useless  in  my  hands,  for  1 
enuld  not  think  of  angles  —  a  blurred  and  wavy  change  canie  over  the 
fantastic  picture.  Prismatic  tintings,  too  vague  to  admit  of  dioptric 
analysis,  began  to  margin  my  architectural  marbles,  and  the  si'ene 
faded  like  out;  of  FresneTs  dissolving  views.  Suddenly,  by  a  flash, 
they  reappeared  in  full  beauty;  and,  just  as  I  was  beginning  to  note  in 
my  memorandum-book  the  changes  which  this  brief  interval  liad  [)ro- 
duced,  thev  went  out  entirelv,  anil  left  a  nearlv  clear  h(»rizon." 


fVllHi!  I 


'IMie  dis[)lay  of  such  weird  and  ever-changing  scenery  mi  the  arch 
above  him,  happily  for  the  time  being,  takes  from  the  Arctic  explorer 
all  sense  of  even  the  extreme  peril  in  which  he  is  placed.  A  noted 
instance  of  this  will  be  found  in  the  experience  of  the  ollicers  of  the 
".leannette,"  as  cited  in  Chapter  X.  of  this  volume.  In  the  case  especially 
of  Lieut.  Chipp,  it  is  some  little  consolation  to  remember,  that  during 
so  many  hours  of  the  fearful  imprisonment  of  the  ship,  his  othcial  duty 
lay  in  observations  of  phenomena  attractive  and  elevating,  and  of  high 
value  in  scientilic  ini^uiry. 

No  occupation,  however,  in  which  Dr.  Kane  engaged,  was  permitted 
to  interfere  with  his  services  as  medical  officer  to  the  ex])edition, 
and  these  were  called  into  most  active  requisition  during  the  winter 
of  1851,  when  the  dreaded  scurvy  assailed  every  officer  and  many  of 
the  crews.  His  commander  reported  that  every  case  was  kept  un<ler 
control  by  th,^  nnw^earied  attention  and  skilful  treatment  of  the  medi- 
cal officers,  and  that  it  was  in  a  great  measure  owing  to  the  advice 
and  the  expedients  recommended  by  the  senior  officer  that  the  expedi- 
tion was  able  to  return  without  the  loss  of  a  man.  Kane  himself  was 
down  with  the  disease,  and  his  old  wound  became  discolored  and 
jiainful;  but  out  on  the  floes  his  energies  were  excited  and  his  blood 


I  ■ 


ii 


i 
Ifl 


64 


AMERICAN    KXI'LOIIATIONS    IN    THK   WK.   ZONKS. 


wanned,  and  he  tramped  away  freely.  The  powers  of  endurance  and 
of  restoration  from  repeated  attacks  of  disease  enabling  him  thus  to 
save  others,  and  to  prepare  himself  for  a  renewed  exploratioji,  were 
those  not  ordinarily  possessed  or  shown  to  the  world.  They  were  kept 
alive,  doubtless,  by  the  iron  will-power  within,  and  by  the  variety  of 
pursuits  of  his  every-day  life,  —  the  observations,  during  all  hours,  of 
the  wonders  of  nature ;  the  pursuit  of  game,  whenever  opportunity 
offered,  and  the  familiarizing  liimself  with  the  movements  of  the  shi])S, 
and  the  duties  of  tlieir  navigation  pertaining  to  the  executive  and 
the  watch  othcer.  Hy  this  last  experience  he  fitted  himself  to  com- 
mand in  person  the  second  expedition,  in  which  he  was  soon  to  awaken 
an  interest  in  the  United  States. 


II 


-.^-^ 


■'•'li 


i» 


'I   ! 


II   '' 


-T?y  >'i^^r;;^ir- 


Hi 


E.  K.  KANE,  M.D.,  SURGEON  OF  THE  FIRST  GRINNELL  EXPEDITION; 
COMMANDER  OF  THE  SECOND. 

Author  of  "The  U.  S.  Grinnell  Expedition  under  DeHaven,"  1850-52;  of  "  Arctic  Explorations," 
185;i-a5.  Assistant  Surgeon  in  tlio  Naval  service,  July  21,  1843;  promoted  to  be  Passed  Assistant  Sur- 
geon, Sept.  14,  1848;  Medallist  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  of  London  and  of  the  Sooi6t6  de  Gtio- 
graphio  of  Paris.    Died  at  Havana,  Feb.  15, 1857. 


ISi 


ciiAPrKP.   iir. 

THE   SECOND   (;i;IN\Kl.L    EXl'KDI  I'lOX    (Is;,;)  .V,). 


T1IF>  EXPEDITION  DESKJNEl)  UY  KANE 


-(^ONTRinUTOIia. 


I'Al'Ell  UEAl) 


liEEOllE  THE  GE()(il!Al'HlCAL  .SOCIETY  OF  NEW  YOKK. —  ASSISTANCE 
MY  TIIESECIJETAKY  OFTIIE  NAVY. — OFFICERS  OF  THE  '^VI)V'AN(M}.''  — 
FISKEltXAES. —  Ci;osSlN(;  .AHCIA^ll.LE  i!AY.  —  THE  "ADVANCE"  :M001;i;1» 


TO  AN    lCEI!Ei;<i. —  KENSSELAElt    HAlMiOi; 


1'1;0V1SI0>,     DEl'OTS    FOK 


SIMMNC   EXPLOltATlOXS.  —  THE    OUSEK VATOIJY. —  DAUA'  SHIl'-MFK.  — 
1\I01;T()\"s  ItEl'OKTED  rOEAU  SEA. — THEHKK!    FIXED    IN    THE    HE. — 


ATTEMl'T    TO     ItEACH     I'.EECHEY     ISLAND. 
LEAVE     FOIL    THE    Sol  Til  ;     TIIEIU     KEITKN. 


NINE    (»!     THE    CO.MI'ANY 


SCIKVY 


AI!AXI)ONi:i).    -  r.oAT  AXD  SLi;D(ii:  .lOCKNlA    SocrilWAIM). 


Till".     P.UIC 

—  KEsrii; 


OF    KANE    I!Y    CAI'TAIN     HAKI'STENE    AT    DISCO. 


Ai:i;ivAL  .\\:  new 


YoiMv.  —  i;ei'oi;ts  to  the  department, 


ii'M>r.\i;Y  OF  i;i:srLTs. — 


APPKECIATIOX     P.Y    THE    IHM'I'ISH    ( loVEPX.M  ENT, 


PrP.I.K'ATloNS    ol.' 


THE    XAPUATIVE.  —  KANES    FAILINC    HEALTH. —  UEQCEST    oF 


ADY 


EliANKLIX    TO    Hl>[   TO  INDEKTAKE  A  NEW  EXPEDPnON. 


HI':    SAILS 


Eoii  EX(iLAND. —  i:Fyri'";x  voyace 


DEA'ML 


FUXEKAL    IIONOKS 


HAVANA.    Nl'AV    0I:LI:ANS,    CINCINNATI,    COUMIUS.     P.ALTI.MolM': 


ND  PHILADELPHIA. 


KANES  KELIClors  CONFIDENCE 


T 


nVS 


1 1 1'i  second  Auicricnn  expedition  in  search  (»!"  the  losl  navii;.ii 
is  to  he  credited  eliielly  to  Dr.  Kane.  It  was  iiuuh'  under  the 
auspices  ot"  the  Navy  l)ei»artinent.  the  Snntlisonian  Instil  iilion, 
the  (Joog'raphical  Society  of  Neu"  "\"ork.  and  the  American  Philosophi- 
cal Society;  with  contributions  from  a  nundicr  ol'  otlier  scientilic  asso- 
ciations and  iViends  ol"  science,  cjiielly  in  lloston.  Nc\\-  \'(irk.  and  I'liil- 
aih'lphia.  Vrofessors  Henry  and  IJache,  and  liieiitenant  Maui\'  aijain 
remh'red  el'licieiit  aid.  Mr.  ( Jrinnell  phiced  the  "  Ad\  aiicc  "'  at  Ivane's 
disposal,  inakinn'  i'nrther  contrihntioiis  in  money  and  sii|)plies,  and  Mr. 
I'cahody.  of  London.  |iaid  (h»\vii  the  sum  of  ten  thousand  (h)llars. 
Kane  Jiiniself  freely  coutriluited  I'rom  his  ])rivate  means  and  from  the 
])rnceeds  of  Ins  lectures. 


v:' 


!■■    i 


m 


A>rERICAN    EXPLORATIONS    IN    THK    WK   ZONKS. 


I  1* 


For  inoiitlis  after  his  icluni  with  Dt'llavcii  hit  had  ofcupied  himself 
in  iiiatuiinj^  the  sclieuie  ot"  a  reiit'Avod  (>l'lurt  to  resiuie  the  missing 
partly  or  at  least  to  solve  the  mystery  ol'  their  fate.  "'The  object  of 
my  jonrney,"  he  sai<l,  "is  tlr;  search  alter  Sir  .lohn  Franklin;  neither 
science  nor  the  vainglory  of  attainin<>'  an  nnreached  North  shall  divert 
me  from  this  one  conscientious  aim."  He  could  not  realize  that  some 
of  the  party  n;i<ifht  not  yet  be  alive;  that  some  small  s(|uad,  or  squads, 
aided  by  the  Eskimos  of  the  expedition,  might  not  have  found  a  hunt- 
ing-ground, and  hiid  up  from  summer  to  summer  enough  of  fuel  and 
food  and  seal-skins  to  brave  three,  or  even  four  more  winters  in  suc- 
cession. Even  at  a  late  date  on  this  second  voyage  he  wrote,  "If  four 
mojiths  ago,  surroinided  by  darkness  and  bound  down  by  disease,  I  had 
been  asked  the  ([uestion,  'Can  they  have  survived?'  I  would  have  turned 
towards  the  bleak  hills  and  the  frozen  sea,  and  responded,  in  sympathy 
with  them,  'isd  !'  IJut  with  the  return  of  light,  a  savage  i)eople  came 
down  upon  us.  destitute  of  any  but  the  rutlest  ai)i)liances  of  the  chase, 
but  fattening  on  the  most  wholesome  diet  of  the  icgion,  only  forty 
miles   from   our  anchorage,  while  ]   was  denouncing  its  scarcity. 

"  In  my  opinion,  th(>  vessels  cannot  have  been  suddenly  destroyed, 
or.  a(  least,  so  destroyed  that  provisions  and  stores  I'ould  not  liave 
been  esUcblislied  in  a  safe  and  convenient  dei)ot.  With  this  view, 
which  all  my  experience  of  ice  sustains,  conies  ihe  collateral  (question 
as  to  the  safety  of  the  documents  of  the  expedition. 

"If  the  natives  renched  the  seat  of  the  missing  ships  (jf  Franklin, 
and  lhei(>  became  i)ossesstMl.  by  pilfer  or  by  barter,  of  the  articdes  sent 
home  by  Kae  and  Anderson,  this  very  fact  would  i'.\])lain  the  ability  of 
Lome  of  the  i>arty  to  sustain  life  among  them.  If,  on  the  other  hand, 
the  natives  have  never  reached  the  ships,  or  the  seat  of  their  stores, 
and  the  relics  were  obtained  from  the  deserted  boat,  then  the  central 
stores  or  ships  are  unmolested,  and  some  may  have  been  able,  by  these 
and  the  hunt,  even  yet  to  sustain  life." 

At  the  meeting  of  the  Geographical  Society  of  I'^ew  York,  De- 
cembei  14,  1852,  he  read  a  })ai)er  developing  his  plan  of  search.  If 
presented  the  inducements  of  term  lirma  as  the  basis  of  operations,  —  ;i 
due  northern  line  to  lead  soonest  to  the  open  ;jea,  animal  life  to  sustain 


DIt.    KANE  S    PLANS. 


()7 


tviivellins'  parties,  aiul  the  co-opomtiou  of  llie  Kskinios.  He  believed 
ill  the  [ji'i)bul)le  extension  of  the  laud  masses  of  (Jrreenlaiid  to  the  liiv 
North;  that  its  liij;hest  protruding-  headland  would  he  most  likely  to 
afford  some  traees  of  the  lost  party;  an(i  that  the  approximation  of  the 
meridians  would  make  the  aeeess  from  the  ])oint  reaehed  to  the  West 
as  easy  as  from  Wellington  Channel,  and  access  to  the  East  far  more 
easy.  The  Northern  point  he  hoped  to  attain  would  be  two  hundred 
and  twenty  miles  north  of  IJeechey  Ishind,  and  seventy  miles  iKcth  of 
the  liighest  tiien  reaehed  in  Wellington  Channel,  lie  would  pass  u[) 
lialhn's  l>ay  to  this  most  northern  [loiiit.  and  then  press  on  towards 
the  i*olc  as  far  as  boats  or  sledges  /ould  carry  a  select  party  of  not 
iiioii'   than   twenty  —  "  a  jjicked  crew." 

In  support  of  his  belief  of  the  I'xteiision  of  (ireenland  to  the  far 
North,  Kane  adduced,  among  other  arguments,  the  analogy  between  its 
iieneral  contour  ami  that  of  the  Southern  Peninstdas  of  the  worhl, 
specially  in  reference  to  their  inward  concave  bend  on  the  Western 
side  —  toward  the  interior.  He  made  a  strong  point  of  the  increasing 
elevation  of  the  Greenland  jicaks  from  South  to  North.  'Hie  basis  of 
his  belief  in  the  existence  ol'  an  Open  Polar  Sea.  as  conlirnuMl  bv  this 
second  exjiedition,  will  receive  subsequent  attention  in  this  volume. 

The  lectures  excited  much  interest.  At  Washington,  the  oflicers  of 
the  (lovernment  had  listened  with  close  attention,  some  of  the  Senators 
cniiimitting  themselves  to  tlu'  snpi)oit  of  a  P>ill  for  an  appropriation  for 
the  voyage.  Put  although  Congress  did  not  fail  to  a]i]ireciate  the 
results  oi'  the  lirst  expedition.  —  [iroviding,  by  an  Act  of  the  latei  date 
of  August  -51,  the  pay  of  tleet-surgeon  for  its  senior  medical  officer,  with 
that  of  the  next  higher  rank  to  others,  ami  additions  to  tlie  comixuisa- 
tion  of  warrant  and  petty  olhcers  and  t'rew,  —  no  a[)propriation  was 
made  for  this  expedition. 

Despairing  of  receiving  aid  from  Congress.  Kane  unfolded  his  plans 
to  Secretary  Kennedy,  to  Avliom  he  had  b(>en  si)ecially  commended 
by  the  Chief  of  tho  Smithsonian  and  the  Superintendents  of  the  Coast 
Survey  and  the  Observatory,  as  possessing  peculiar  qualitii-s  and  varied 
sources  of  knowledge  fitting  him  for  the  Exploration.  The  Navy 
Department  promptly  encouraged  him.     The  Secretary  did  not  hesitate 


1          ,■  ^jTTTrv;     i 

■  ■  i '   i  ^ 

if''       ' 

m 


'■'■m 


lii 


i!l:i" 


I  ; 


J      .  .  * 


1 


I'  ^  > 


1  I  :> 

1      I        ■ 


ii! 


(58 


A.Mi:i;i("AN    KXI'LOItATIONS    IN    TlIK    UK    Z«)M:s. 


i(t  Siiy  thai  lie  would  assist  with  cnciv  means  aiillinri/.cd  ;   hriiinint;'   ilic 

r\|i('(liliou   iiihIci'   the   (-(iiitrol   uT  tiic   ( i(i\  I'rmiiciit    li\    iilariiit;-    iiiii 

siifcial  duty  lo  L'oiiducl  it  iindiT  the  dircctioii  nl'  liic   I  fcpai'tiiiciil.      Ilu 


(li'taili'd  for  liiiii  ten  men   from   tin-    Naval   S 


eixiee.  on    their    usual    |iay 


am 


I  rati 
d  a  J 


Kins,  and  luiuished  sonu'  nautu'al  instruments,  maiis.  and  ehar 


ami  a  Jew  [irovisions. 

In  ills  brief  orders  of  Novemher  liT.  1S.")i\  and  l-'ehruarv  1».  ISo:;.  tlie 
Si'eretarv  referred  to  the  solieilalion  of  Lady  I*'ranklin  that  Kane 
should  undertake  the  Ivxpedilioii  :  and,  plaeiuL;'  him  on  sj)e<'ial  dut\  for 
••  till'  conduct  of  an  o\erlaiid  journey  !Vom  the  upper  waters  of  Uafliirs 
I'»ay  to  the  shon's  of  (he  I'olai'  Seas."  invited  his  attenliiui  to  Scientilie 
in(|uiry,  particularly  lo  (he  existence  of  an  open  sea,  and  to  the  suh- 
jeets  of  teri'estrial  u)aL;iietisiii.  i^'ciicral  mcliMWolouy.  and  natural  liistorv. 
Xo  specilic  instructions,  usual  on  ihe  deparlure  of  Na\al  expeditions, 
were  ofleu  d.  'I'he  Secretary  added.  ••  l(el\  iui;'  on  ycuir  /.eal  and  dis- 
cretion, till'  Dejiartmenl  sinds  yoi;  f(Utli  (Ui  an  undi'rlakiuL;-  which  will 
lie  allci  (led  with  n'rcal  p>rii  ;iid  exposure:  trusting  that  \du  will  he 
sustaine  I  li\-  the  laudalile  oh 


iccl  Hi  view,  and  wishuii;'   \(iii   success   and 


a    sale    rcliiiu 


ill   \dur   Iriciids. 


^fay  :')().  Is.*)."'),  ihe  ".\d\ance"  left   New  ^'ork  on   her  second   cruise, 
haviiiu'  on    hoard   seventeen    persiuis.      Dr.    I.    I,    Hayes,  of  New   York. 

was  the   siu-'eon.    August    Sdulat;'.   its  aslr. mer.  and    Henry   Urooks, 

of  ihe^hrsl    Mxpediiiou,  second   in   couunaml  :  of  the  seamen.  William 
.Morion   also  Iiad    heeii    wiih    DidlaM'ii   and    Ivane.      The  e(iuipment    of 
ihe  Iiiil;' cuusisted  ol'  iinle  more   than  a.  (|uaiitiiyof  ront^'h   hoards   for 
housing;'   ihe   vessel    in    winlci'.  some  ti'iils  of  india-rnhhcr  and   ean\as, 
:"i'l    several    carefully    Imilt    sledj^'es.      Kane    had    some    two    thousand 
[louiids  of  j.cmmicaii  and  a  liheral  supply  of  dried  fruits  and  vcn'ctaliles. 
wilh  the  Usual  iia\\    ralioiis:   a  well-chosen  lil)rary.  furinshed    jiai'tlv  1)\- 
<'"\  I'l  iiiiK'iil    and    pailly    liy    .Mr.    (iriniiell:    a    moderate    wardrobe   of 
woollens:    and   a   nuudier  of  articK's   tor  barter.     At   St.  Johns.   New- 
foundland, lie  made  his  purchase  of  fresh  beef,  to  I)e  uuirled  and   liuno- 
in  the  rio-rrinn-,  and  received  from  (JoNcnior  Hamilton  a   noble  team  of 
Newfoundland  doL;s.     ,Iidy  1,  he  entered  the  liurbur  uf  Fiskornacs,  too 


I 


:,' 


MANS    IIKNDIMK. 


»;!» 


I.ilc  ill  llic  S(';iS(Mi  to  n))(iiiii  llic  iVcsli  stores  iicctlrd   for  llic    l^xpcdit ion, 
lull    scciiriiiL;-   l;cic   the  services  of   lliiiis  ( 'liristiaii  (or   I  lemlrik  ),  llien 


^  ■  I'l'ii ' 


111'.'  ti 


m- 


a 


ill 


,j'";!:  VI 


I; 


lit 


■iiiiii 
•Miil 

■■■<  -4 


01^ 


fililtlii 


^!i!!;' 


'•■■I 


]<<\\\'mf'''-  ''■'  I  '1 


jl:':|li  Si! 


il'll:,' 


'H' 


v^'!'' I'll:'" I-::;:;:  - 


f I 


;i  l)oy  of  nineteen.  ('X|)ert  with  tlie  kiiyalc  and  javelin.  He  proved  so 
uset'iil  an  assistant  as  to  lead  to  liis  I'liture  eiiii'a^'einenls  l>y  Hayes,  Hall, 
;iiid  ('aiitaiii  Xares,  oi'  tlie  l'liiii,iisli  I'-xpedilion  of  iSTo.  Ileaeliini;' 
Melville  llav  on  llu'  liTtli.  Ivane    round   the  shore   ices  so   deeaNcd.  that 


'!"(! 

1 

m 

I 

S^^^^^K^-*" 

I 


1 


I     .  I 


(0 


AMI'.KK'AN     I'An.oi:  \  nt"\:>    IN     I'lll',    III',    /nSIIS. 


lie  tliti  not  ilcciii  il  ;i(l\  isiiMc  Id  ;itu'iii|il   tli('iisii;il  |>;issii<;'r  iilniii;'  I  lu"  I'iisl 


11 


(»t'S  l« 


r  llic  land.  ImiI  sliM>il  din'cllv  lo  tlir  Xurl  liw  ard  and  Eastward,  iiiilil 


ln>  met  llif  nmldli'  |iarl\.      Ilcic  lie  ln'adcd  iifarlx   dirccl   Inr  ('ii|it'  Yoik. 
ilnl\   ■_*•.•,  Icaiiii'^a  lifscl  incni.   lie   ilrcidcd    Id   lastcn    In   an   iccliciL;.  and 


JlI'ltT  tM! 


.•lit    1 


KHirs   w  ariimi;'.  hca  v 


!M!i 


ind  planliiii;  icr-ant'linrs,  sncccct 


Ird 


in    t'lVt'i'liiii;'   it:    luil    lie    had    hardly    a    lircalhiiin'-spcll    hd'orc    he    was 
startlod  bv  a  scl  of  lond  narklin!''  -iiuinds  aliiMc.  w  hih'  small  iVaivincnt  ■ 


u'c  not    lanrc 


tl 


lan 


!>(•;.  in    to   (dt    t  lie    \  .ili'i,  n 


kr    I  he    lir.st 


drops  of  a  snni.ncr  sho' 


r!;t'  indications  wni'  loo  plain  :  he  had 
liarch  tinn"  lo  cast  oft  ocl.  iii;-  ;»t  ■>  of  tlir  hfin'  Icll  in  ruins,  (•rasliinij 
like  ai !  illci  \ .  ()iillii'  :'>  Ki.  w  Jicii  ,oh 'lorcd  to  a  st'cond  Ihmj;',  t  he  roii- 
tiniit'tl  ice  lucssinc  !ii'L;,in  to  alVt'cl  it.  and  il  loidv  np  its  niarch  lo  ilic 
sonlli.  riic  IuIl;'  was  sccnird  to  a  niiirli  laiL;'!'!'  one,  llw  conisf  ot 
wliirli  was  slcadiU  iioiihward.  the  loose  ice  drillinu  hy  on  each  side. 
It'a\ini;'  a  wake  ol  hhuk  water  lor  a  mile  heliind  the  ship.  At  10  I'.M.. 
luing  in  innnediate  danmr.  she  a^aiii  u'ot  oil'  in  a  lead  to  the  northeast. 
jMisliint;' o\  ei'  in  spile  ol"  t  he  di  ill  iii<,;lrash.  "The  niidnin'li!  sun  came 
out  over  the  northern  eresi  of  the  L;real  Ixml;',  kimllitit;'  varionsly- 
I'olortMl  tires  on  e\ crx  part  ol'  its  siiilaee.  and  making'  the  ie(>  aronnd 
ono  i^real  respleiideiiev  ol  u'emwork,  hl.i/ini;'  eai'lmneles.  and  i  nhies. 
and  molten  u'old."  'l"hronLi'li  all  this  jewelry  i  he  hriu  \\t'iit  erniiehiiiL;'. 
anil,  alter  a  torluiuis  progress  of  li\t>  nules.  arrested  here  and  there  hy 
tont;nes  which  riMpiired  i  he  saw  and  tlu>  ici'-ehisels.  titled  hcrseli"  neatly 
in  Itelwceii  twii  lloes.      lie  siui ceded  in  crossinu'  the  l>a\   in  ten  days. 

Aui^iist  7.  tlu>  "  \d\anee""  reached  the  headlami  ol'  Sir  Thomas 
Smith's  Sound,  and  passt^l  heyond  the  liiLi'hest  point  naiiu'd  hy  Captain 
Inu'hMield.  K.N.  Still  too  I'ar  to  the  Sonili  to  carry  on  his  proposed 
stMitli.  Kani>  now  attempted  tlu'  penetration  oi"  a  drirtini;'  jiaid;  which 
met  him.  selectinu'  tirst  a  provision  (h'pot.  and  depositing"  in  il  stune 
supplies  ami  his  lire-boat.  On  tlu>  western  cape  t^\'  Littleton  Island  he 
buill  his  tirst  cairn.  wedu'inL;' a  stalV  into  the  rock  I'ri'vices.  on  which  he 
sjifcad  the  Anu'ricau  llau".  and  phiiinu'  also  near  by  a  beacon,  ol'tieial 
ilosjiatihes.  and  privalt'  letters  o(  larewi'll. 

Knlcring'  the  juuk.  the  ••Ad\auci'""  I'ouml  the  ice  hugging  the 
Amoiican  shuro.  ami  oxtcmling  across  the  chainu'l.     Debai'voil  tVom  liu' 


»;i 


III 


IMONSMKI,  \i;i!    II  MMlOlt 


71 


Nnrllicni  |»iiss;iH(.  nil  Ili;it  siilr,  iil'ln  ii  lriii|iMr;ny  iisy  hiiii  in  ;i  I;iimI- 
Idclvi'd  liiiv,  wliicli  '.n  iiiiiiKMl  IJcrii^ff  lliirltur,  rciiiiii^f  Icsl,  Mm-  rjipidly 
iiilviiiicini^  r  »l(l  ii;ij^lii    j)i(!V('iil    rmllicr  iM-ncliiilinj^,   Kiiiir   wiiipcil  uiil 

,111(1  jiffiiii;  iiia.lc  I'iisl  (o  iiii  icci \^.      Ilcic  tlic  drill  iiiLf  piick  niiisidc  \v;is 

ill  first  iillfi!  iiiipciiclrjililc  ;  iii;iiiy  Imtj^s  \vt  re  di'iriii^'  liiickwai'd  iiiid 
Idiwiirtl  willi  llic  lidfs,  ;,ii(|,  prcssiiiu;  on  the  ice  (d"  llm  does,  hud  raised 
ii|)  hills  '"(K  ,  sixly  (o  .scvciily  Ict'l.  lii,L;li.  Iluviii;^'  net  ;iltciii;ili\ c  ImiI 
cither  to  a  Iviiiicc  nr  discoiit  iiiiic  the  scarcdi,  rclyiii;^'  ii|hiii  Ihr  sticiij^tli 
id'  his  slii|),  and  tli(>  spirit  and  lid(dily  id'  his  (Miiiii'adcs,  he  di'lci'iiiiicd 
ii'  p(issii)h>  ((>  pri'ss  lliiinii;li  the  small  iiilrrspacc  hctuccii  ||i<'  main 
park  and  thcruasl,  an  tdl'ort  attcndcij  with  a.  scrirs  'he  scvrrrst 
ixpcriciii'cs.  Whriicvcr  the  riMcdiii^^-  tides  hdl  didieient  lo  ,  lini^s,  the 
ship  was  oil  her  beam  ends;  twice  it  was  iiii|((issi's,  l,»  ..(  <iii(.  tiu; 
stoves  so  as  (o  prevent,  her  froni  takiiin'  life.  Ai._,M-t  '1>,  when  she 
leaehed  lalililde  7S"  !•'>',  she  had  lost  part  (d'  her  sla-lmaid  liiilwarks,  ;i 
(|:iarter  hoal,  her  jil)-ltooiii,  hest  howcr  aneh  n',  and  .  '  .indred  ratli(»ms 
(it    liaAVS(>i'   Iml  was  liersell'  in  all  essentials  nninjnred. 

Winter  was  now  rapidly  advaneini;,  the  rapid  rninialiiiii  id'  yoiinn' 
ice  mal<in<j;'  it,  plain  that  it  wonld  soon  eenient  ilsell'.  Kane's  ol'licers 
enited  in  a  written  opinion  in  I'avdr  of  reliirniii'4  lo  ;i  more  Soiithein 
liaihoi'.  l>iit  he  was  nnwillinn'  to  lose  adearly  pnridiased  proo-ress,  and 
lie  ri'iiiove<l  from  the  intended  oliser\  at  iinis.  lie  immediatidy  sel  out 
lo  se(d\  a  spot  w  liiidi  nii^ld  he  eli^ihle,  for  a.  start  inL;"-poiiit  I'oi  I'ntnre 
travel.  The  party  al  lirsl  carried  a  wiialo-hoat  and  sled^fc,  hnl  were 
eouijiidled  lo  al)andt»ii  hoth.  'riiey  udvaiictMJ  on  i'ool  lo  a,  point  wdiicli 
the  meridiiui  ohserv.dions  of  the  t  heodolile  |)laeed  in  latitiKh;  7H"  Aii', 
lont;Mtiide  TS'^  41'  West,  where  the,  coast  of  ( Jre((iilaiid  was  round  I'aeino' 
plainly  l(»  the  North.  No  spot,  howev(n',  sccniod  lo  conihiiK!  so  nian\' 
(d'  the  re(|iiisites  for  a  Winter  Ilarhor  as  that,  in  whi(di  the  sjiip  had 
heeii  hd't,  and  on  the  relnrii  of  the  pai't y  she  was  \var|)ed  in  hetween 
the  islands,  in  a  Sjx)!,  "secunMl  against  llie  movinL;'  ic(',  walled  in  lo  sea- 
ward, with  an  anchonigo  oT  a  moderate  deplli  of  watei-,  open  to  the 
meridian  siuilijjjht,  and  ujuarded  from  x\inds,  echlies,  and  drifts," — hut,  to 
remain  near  this  [)oint,  as  will  liereafter  he  seen,  fixed  in  the  same  ico, 
until  the  nnknown  date  al  wliieli.  after  heiii;^'  ahandoiied   1)\   \)i.  Kane, 


i   ■ 

i  ; 


;':! 


'  I 


ii^ 


I  - 


AMKIMCAN    KXI'LOKATIONS    IN    Till;    ICi;   ZONKS. 


siic  was  (lolinvfd.      No   vcstinf   of   li,.i>  cduld   \t^>  seen   on    I  lie    visit   to 
lii'Jissalacr  Ilarhoi'  In   Dr.  Hayes,  Dfcrinhcr,  I  Slid. 

ScptciiiltiT  S,  Dr.  Hayes,  Mr.  Wilson,  and  Hans  were  sent  inland, 
eliielly  lo  delennine  liow  far  a  sn|i|ily  of  i;aine  ini^lil  l»e  lio[)ed  for. 
'llii:    party,  on   the   t'nnitli   day  oi'  a   lahorioiis   IraNcl.  descended    into  a 

a  river  llieii  nearly  dry.      They  speiil  llie 


(let 


|i,  hroad  \  alley,  t  h 


e  lied  (i| 


jii!4'hl  in  their  hiiiralo-skins  on  the  rocks.      ('arr\iii!4'  ea<'li   on    Ids  slionl- 
ders  a  weight  of  alioiil   thirty  pounds,  in   eontiniiaiiee   of  Iheir  journev 
llie\'  elainhered  at  tir^l  o\ 


er  idcKs 


fidiii  which  I  he  snow  had  disajipt'iiri'ij, 
hill  soon  eiiiered  on  a  iiioic  eiili\ cniii;.;'  jirospecL  of  heds  cd'  groeu  moss 
idid  tiiri'.  I'atejies  ol'  androineda  ^a\c  1  Iieni  Ihmc  and  lliere  a  earjiet, 
and    riirnished    I'liel    I'or  l  heir  cook ini;'.      No   evidences   (d'  life,  liowever, 


Were   seen    exccjit    some 


th 


dinar 


siiiall    herns  ot    iciiKJeer.  a   so 


Al  li 


itar\   I'alihit,  and 


Ih 


e  looimarKs  oi  a  Ion.  .\i  liie  emi  oi  a  |oiiriiey  ol  ninety  miles  iiieir 
pro^'rt'ss  wa^  arrested  h\  a  glacier  I'oiir  hundred  feet  hii;li,  e\leiidin<;'  to 
tlu'  North  and  West  a>.  far  as  iliee\('  coiilil  I'each.  It  Mas  midnii-'lit 
when  iliey  approached  it.  Iml  the  sun  was  a  lew  deL;'rees  oiiK'  heiiealh 
till'  hori/on  :  stars  ol'  the  sccoik'  inaj;nit  iide  \\  ere  dindy  visible  in  the 
North:  and  a  hrilliaiil  meteor,  fallinn'  jnst  in  ad\iuiee  ol'  the  travellers, 
H'leatly  hei^hlciHMl  the  err('ct  hy  its  reilected  riL;lit  on  this  wall  (d'  ]mre 
whiteness.  Aloni;'  the  hase  ol'  the  L^laeier  was  a  snowbank  lilt  \  to  six'  \' 
I'eet  in  lieiL^ht,  I'isini;-  at  an  angle  (d"  tliirty  dejjfrees ;  this  was  ascended, 
hut  the  smooth  iee-surl'aee  hal'lled  all  attempts  to  reach  the  summit  ot" 
the  glacier,  which  rose  to  an  elevation  of  one  hundred  and  sixty  feet, 
rounding  gradually  off  as  it  approacdi(Ml  the  ^f(')•  iff  (Ihtce  above. 
With   all    his  dexteritv   llaiis  faik'd   to  secure  an\    '''ame. 


Dr.  Kane's  next  step  was  to  organize  parties  hu-  establishing  pro- 
Ai.^ioii  depot.s  to  facilitate  researches  in  the  Sj)ring.  The  signs  of 
intense  cold  were  hastening;  by  Se])tember  1')  the  tliermometer  had 
fallen  to  14°,  the  floes  aronnd  the  brig  were  cenieiited.  and  an  iceberg 
iiad  been  fi-ozen  in,  to  l)e  the  (>ompanion  of  the  party  dui'ing  their 
whole  stay;  the  birds,  even  the  sea-sw^allows.  had  all  gone  South. 

The  ])rovisions  brought  out  had  not  ineludi'il  liermetically  sealed 
moats,  and  there  seemed  little  ground  of  exploding  game;  the  salted 


TIIK   OMSKItVATOltY 


7.'{ 


|.ri'\  isimis  w cii'  iln'icfoi'r   |iiil    iiiidcr  ii    iiinccss  dl"  IVcslicniiiin"  l)y  iillcr- 
n.iii'  siiiikiii};'  and  IVi'c/iiin'  iiinK'i-  tlic  ice-crust  of  ;i  I'lcsli-WiitiT  piuid. 

Till'  sled  I'm-  the  liist  depAt  ]iiii'tv,  wliieli  was  under  Mc(J;irv  and 
IJonsall,  Mas  ninilelle<|  tVoui  niic  recei\fd  iVnni  the  Uritisli  Adniiraltv, 
mid  measured  thirteen  feel  i>\  I'nur.  It  readily  carried  I'uurteeii  hun- 
dred pounds.  The  ciir^o,  exclusive  <t['  sup|)lies  for  the  jdUi'ney,  was 
icily  jieniiuican,  put,  up  in  winMlen  eases  inid  tinneij  iron  cylinders, 
''""j4''.V  prote(!t('d  tVoni  the  ass;inlts  of  the  hear.      I   pon    the  car^'o  was 


I'M 


lin'ht    india-ru))l)er    boat,  wliii  h    Kane 


lioiicd    could 


I; 


luneiied  on 


i(  aching;' o|ien  wat(  i'.  The  se\eu  nu'u  altached  to  the  sled  hud  eiudi 
his  own  •  I'ue-ia-ddy,"  or  shoulder-licll,  and  his  1  rack-rope,  vary ini;'  in 
Iciiu'lli.  to  pres'cnl  his  inti'rfei  enee  with  another  when  walking'  ahreasl. 
l.caxiuL;'  the  \)V\'j;  Septc:,i1ier  :iO,  they  reaidied  their  hin'liest  latitude, 
T'.i  ■")"'.  niakini;'  \\\\vr  lUijiortanl  caches:  the  third  contained  einht  hun- 
dred piiunds  (d"  peniirican.  Alter  they  had  heen  mil  twenty  days, 
Kane  pushed  out  to  h)ok  I'oi-  them  ;  and  alter  a  venturesome  run  across 
the  ice-l)(dt,  where  his  doi;>  oiu'c  failed  lo  haji  a  clia>ni.  he  met  them 
111!   their   return,  safe  tliou^^h  nearly  i\hau>lcd. 

.Meanwhile,  on  one  of  the  islets  in  IJenss:  laer  Ilarhor.  an  .\stro- 
iiondcal  ()hser\atory  had  been  raised  of  four  walls  of  granite  l)loid<s. 
ctinenti'il  with  moss  and  water  and  the  ni'Ver-l'ailint;'  aid  oi'  frost. 
'I'liey  hoi'c  a  sulistautial  woodc'ii  roof.  The  pedestals  were  a  (ton- 
l^louicrate  of  !^i'a\  el  and  ice  :  theti'ansit  and  theodolite  were  thus  free 
iVoiu  xihration.  A  small  ma^iictie  olistu'Natory  adjoined,  in  whieh 
Kane  had  his  nKinnetomoter  and  dip  instinment  :  and  on  the  ojten  ico- 
lield  was  the  wooden  .Meteorological  ( )l)servatory,  latticed  and  ])ieree(l 
r-holes  to  allow  the  air  to  pass  freely,  its  iinu-r  eliaml)er.  heiiisf 


wii li  an''( 


L;'uardei|    a'. 


ainst   the  drift    hv   a   ser 


ii  -<  ot    screens. 


The  thermometers. 


if  which    there  was  a  n'ood   supjily.  were  of  such  seiisiliilily  that,  wlieii 
landinn'  at   — 40"  nv  — .")()\  the  mere  ai)[)roaeli  of  the  observer  eauscl 


a    0 


erceplihle  rise.  Our  of  them,  a  three-feet  spirit  stanthird  by 
Taulialjue.  n'raduated  to  — 'tO".  was  of  suflieiently  extended  register 
lo  be  read  by  rapid  iiis]tection  to  tenths  of  a  (h-gree.  "The  inlluence 
of  the  winds  I  did  not  wish  al)solutely  to  neutralize;  Init  T  I'udeavored 
to  make  the  exposure  to  them  so   uniform  as  to  give  a  relative  result 


m 


'm 


74 


AMKIMCAN    i:.\IM,(»i;ATlnNS    IN     TMH    i(  I.    ZnNKS. 


l\)V  every  (luarlfr  dl"  the  (M>in]ia> 


A   tid 


('   icuistcr  was  on   Itoaru 


Hie 


1 ' 

n 


H: 


;|.|       1. 


n\is. 


Tlic  value  (if  tlie  wnik  pn  InriiMMl  under  elicunistances  of  sueli 
intens«'  cold  and  sufti'ihif^  was  appreciated,  after  the  itturu  of  tlie 
I'Xpedition,  by  the  SiuitliHoiiiau  Institution,  tlic  '•Catalogue  and  Index** 
of  wliose  pul)ii('ations.  issued  in  ISSi'.  n'ives,  on  pa^c  '■]■],  "I'liysical 
Ohservatituis  in  the  Arctic  Seas,  l»y  I^lisliu  Kcni  Kane.  Made  duriiit;' 
the  Sccontl  (irinuell  I^xjx'dition  in  search  of  Sir  .l(diii  Franklin,  in 
lH');J,  I8r)4,  and  l8o'),  at  V^in  Rensselaer  Harbor  and  oiIk  r  p(»ints()ii  tlu* 
West  Coast  of  Greenland.  Ueduced  and  discussed  l>y  ('has.  A.  Schott. 
Part  I.  —  Masruetisin.  II. —  Mi'teoroloo-v.  III.  —  Astrouoniv.  IV. — • 
Tich-s  (\os.  '.(T"-,  104^'-,  l-JSi""-,  1;'.0'""),  1?^5!m;0.  4to,  pp.  840. 17  wood- 
cuts, 1  map,  <!  plates." 

'i'lie  Nos.  !i7.  etc..  within  tlie  |)aren  t liescs  are  those  of  the  separate 
puhlieattons  which   make   up   this  \dlume.     Appendixes  in   tlie  second 


latei 


th 


ion,  contaui  llie  })relnninary 
notes  from  ^vhich  this  Puhlication  has  been  made.  Appendix  XV^III.  is 
Mr.  Durand's  examiiuition  of  phmts  collected  on  both  ex[)cditions  —  on 
liie  .second  Avith  the  assistance  of  Dr.  Hayes. 

The  latitude  and  loiiyitude  of  tlie  Astronomical  Observatory  are 
o'iven.  "Lilt.  78°  87'  N.,  Lon,u'.  7(P  4(>'  W.  'riic  ishmd  on  which 
the  observatory  was  ))laccd  was  scune  fifty  ]iaccs  bmt;'  l)y  perhajts  forty 
broad,     "^riie  highest  point  of  the  island  was  iibout  thirty  feet  above  the 

mean  tide-level  of  the  harbor." 

« 

November  7th,  darkness  came  on  with  insidious  steadiness:  the 
thermometer  at  mxuiday  oidy  could  l)e  read  without  a  lii^'lit  ;  tiic  black 
masses  of  tlie  hills,  with  their  glaiing  patclies  of  snow,  were  still  visible. 
The  stars  of  the  sixth  mau'uitude  shone  out  at  noon(hiv  ;  the  moon, 
now  at  her  greatest  northern  declination,  swept  round  the  heavens,  at 
the  lowest  partof  lier  curve  14"  above  the  hori/(Ui.  In  the  briu'.  a  mean 
temperature  was  kept  at  60°  below  deck:  above,  under  the  housing,  it 
was  as  liigh  as  the  freezing  [loiut.     AViiiti'r  was  fully  upon  tliom. 

TJie  party  began  to  realize  their  situation.  They  found  it  difficult 
to  keep  up  a  cheery  tone.     Mncu    Hans  was  sorely  homesick  "  until   his 


G 


SKVKIti:    KXl'KUIKNCKS.    -  |s:,4-:). 


I') 


i;  tal^ia  was  treated  lirsl  by  a  dose  ul'  salts,  and  socoiidly  li\  pr(»iiin- 
iiuu."  Ill' had  bundled  mi  his  elollies  and  threatened  a  !L^<)()(1-1)\  e,  "  hut 
>iMiii  bt;eanie  as  ha[»[iy  as  a  tat  man  ()U<ifht  t(»  he." 

The  l)ii<4'  was  now  made  as  cond'ortuhle  as  jt(»s.sihlo  :  the  ileek  Imused 
ill  and  corked  with  oakum,  and  within  a  systom  of  waiinth  and  ventila- 
linn  seemed.  Tlie  arrangements  for  eookin;^'.  ice-melt int;-,  and  washing 
were  minutely  eared  for. 

'I"he  usual  (hiily  Arctii-  routine  was  estahlished.  At  <I  A.  M.  the  decks 
wric  cleaned,  the  ice-hole  (tpened,  the  ice-lal)k's  me;.,  ured,  and  things 
ahoaid  i)ut  to  rights.  At  half  past  seven  all  liamls  washed  on  deck 
iiiid  came  below  for  breakfast,  which  was  alike  for  all,  —  hard-tack, 
|iiiik.  stewed  apples  frozen  like  molasses  candy,  tea  and  coiree,  with  a 
delicate  portion  of  raw  potato.  After  breakfast,  sniokiii;^  till  nine;  an-! 
then  each  to  his  occupation  until  dinner,  when  the  raw  potato  came  in 
anain  for  hygiene.  This  last  morsel  was  anything  hut  jialatable. 
although  its  good  eifects  on  gums  threatened  with  scurvy  were  often 
piiinted  out.  Six  o'clock  brought  suitper,  "with  little  variation  of  the 
(liei  named,  and  then  the  amusements  of  cards,  chess,  and  the  Ma'ja/iM(! 


clieei'ef 


I  the 


(;venin<x. 


The  small  force  of  the  company  had  been  re<luce(l  by  sickness,  and 
the  deck  ofhcers  and  effective  men  had  enough  of  ship's  <luty  to  occupy 
several  hours  of  each  day.  Mr.  Sontag  was  assisted  at  the  (jbservatory 
:ilternately  by  the  Commander,  Mr.  Bonsall,  and  Dr.  Hayes;  on  board 
he  had  his  charts  and  computations.  When  the  season  had  fully 
set  in,  the  last-named  oihcer  had  a  hospital  on  hand,  and  specimens 
in  natural  history  to  prepare,  with  the  meteorological  tables,  the  log- 
hook,  and  othci'  oilicial  records  to  occupy  him.  There  was  no  idling 
nn  board  during    he  one  hundred  and  twenty  days  of  the  sun's  absence. 

Tlie  long  and  dreary  winter  was  exceptionally  severe, — -the  ther- 
mometer registering,  January  IT,  — 49°,  and  February  T),  — 08°,  Tiie 
reduced  mean  of  the  best  spirit  standards  gave  — ()7° :  calo?ic  (ihev 
and  the  oil  of  winter-green  became  solid.  The  intluence  of  .he  long 
and  intense  darkness  was  most  depressing,  and  of  the  ships  <-ompanv 
scarcely  one  was  exempt  from  scurvy.  More  than  fifty  dogs  died  IVom 
an  anomalous  form  of  disease  to  wliich  the  absence  of  lijjht  contributed 


!  .'f 


I  I 


! 


1 

M 
i  t 

■  ! 

f  ■ 

5- 

*  ■ 


T'i 


AMKUK'AN    EXI'LOHATIONS    IN    THK    ICK    /oNKS. 


!l 


ti 


'<■■} 


ii  'I 


as  iiiiU'li  as  the  cxlrcme  cold.  'Plicv  ;ite  voracidiisly.  kept  their  strcn^'tli. 
and  slept  wt'U.  l)ut  harked  fraiitieally  at  iiotlnno-,  and  walked  in  straight 
and  (  iir\('d  lines  with  anxious  and  unwearying  perseverance;  generally 
ihey  |ieiislied  witli  symptoms  resend)ling  lock-jaw,  in  thirty-six  houi.. 
alter  the  liisl  attack,  'i'lieir  loss  inlert'ered  seriously  witli  the  oi'iginal 
plan  (if  search  ;  it  !iad  heen  contemplated  to  employ  them  in  I'olhtwiiig 
tli!'  ro.ist.  hut  now  a  new  system  must  he  estahlishcd.  new  sledges 
liiiill.  and  eiiuipnienls  provideil  suitid  to  larger  parties  and  of  a  more 
[mrtahlc  character. 

.A  I  I  he  opening  of  spiing  the  party  \>as  too  small  i"oi'  an  extended 
syst(un  ol' (ipeiations  :  th.i'  only  hope  oL' continuing  th"  search  was  to  he 
ton  ml  in  a  passage  through  or  (»ver  the  ice-li(Ods  to  the  north.  Alarcii  1  7, 
Kane  was  anxiously  waiting  to  send  out  his  iiist   advance  ])arty.     The 

tliernioniett'r  outside  stood  at 1<)^  hut  from  the  deck  ol' tlu;  "Advance"" 

he  saw  the  promise  oi'  milder  weather.  To  the  northward  all  the  bright 
glare  of  sunset  streamed  out  in  long  hands  of  orange  through  the  vapors 
of  the  ice-l'oot,  and  the  IVost-smoke  exhaled  in  wreaths  like  those  which 
one  sees  curiing  iVoi-f  the  house-ehinnieys  as  he  comes  down  a  nutuntain 
side  inlii  a  \alh'y.  ( )n  the  third  day  following,  the  depot  party  started 
(lui.  lint  the  heavy  gale  frou'.  the  north-novHieast  overtook  them,  their 
tli'iiiKMiii'ier  fell  to  — oT",  and  when  hmnd  hy  a  rescue  j/arty  under 
Kane  they  were  at  the  ])oint  of  entire  exhaustion,  luiving  heen  wilhmit 
sleep  ciulii  \-iiiie  (UU  cf  eighty-four  lionrs..  'l"wo  of  the  men.  Haker  and 
Schuheit.  (Iie(l  net  l"i)g  after  their  return  to  the  hrig  :  all  save  one 
sulTcred  with  temporarily  im])aired  minds. 

As  sddu  as  the  health  of  his  coni])any  justified  it,  Kane  I'enewed  his 
attempts  hy  three  exjit'dit imis  :  in  April  and  Ahiy  under  his  own  gtnd- 
anee,  in  -Iinie  under  Dr.  Hayes,  and  in  Juue-Jidy  under  .Morton, 
aceiMnpanied  hy  Hans. 

The  lirsl  of  t  lu'se  exphirat  ions  Avas  along  the  hase  of  the  great  glacier 
i^^uing  I'roni  the  coast  nf  (JreeuUind  in  Kat.  7U^ — a  glacier  I'cvisited 
anil  surveyed  theyear  Inllowing.  l>ut  the  scurvy  painfully  reapjieared, 
the  snow  deepeiie<l  till  llu'  men  sank  to  their  middle,  the  dogs  .vere  so 
hnricd  that  the  sleds  wer(-  uidoadeil  and  their  cai'goes  carried,  and  the 
supplies  expected  to  he  founil  available   in  the  cache  of  the  previous 


(■nine  hy  ; 
w  here  he 
.hme  It. 

The  io 
I  iicdddlilc 
l)i'.  Haych 
May   li-), 
iKirth  lini 
iiist  ward, 
iiiiicty   mi 
sr\('nty. 
\n\\v  hii'id: 
iliart  was 
liighest  po, 
niu  of  the 

Morton 
.liMie  1  ")  h( 
iiml  li  over 
>i\tli   day 
liciween  it 
il  a  cliapne 
met  with  a 
llic    laud    s 
npcning  to 
tern  were  i 
iiLnllciuoke; 
Io  sea.      Nc 
geese  made 
plain,  show 

.Morton 
saw   auotlu 
ishinds;    th 
ii'ieil  in  vai 
Very  high  c 


■ll 


lis 


(l- 


'(l 


■id 
If 

,IS 


MUliToN  S    "orEN    SEA. 


77 


I'.ill  wen-  found  desti'()3-od  by  the  bear.  Three  <•!'  the  jiarty  were  over- 
ciiiiu'  i>y  ouow-bliudiiess,  and  Kaiie  liiinselL' was  carried  l)a('k  to  (lie  Ijiml;', 
w  Ik  re  ho  lay  ill  with  seiirvy  and  typhoid  i'ever,  unable   to   walU   iiiitil 

.liliiclt. 

I'lif  loeatinii  ol"  the  entire  imrllierii  t'oast  line  was  still  a  blank:  llic 
tiu'iiddlilt'  had  made  Ibr  Iheiii  the  discovery  lluiL  it  Lrendt'd  eastward. 
Dr.  Hayes  renewed  an  attempt  for  its  exploration.  Leaving  the  brig. 
May  '2i\  lie  jiressed  on,  in  conipuny  with  William  ( iodlVey,  on  a  due 
ninth  line,  but,  eiieoniitering  the  S(juee7.ed  iees.  soon  worked  to  the 
iiistward,  following  iin  extremely  tortnoiis  ciPiirse  of  not  more  than 
iiiiicty  miles  in  a  diri'ct  line,  but  of  ai^tual  ti'avi  !  two  hmidrcil  and 
sf\cnty.  The  wIioU'  ti'avel  of  twelve  days  was  one  ol'  not  less  than 
luiir  luindred  miles.  Th(>  new  eoast  line  ad<led  by  this  jonrne}  to  the 
(hail  was  about  two  linndred  miles  in  extent.  His  reliirn  I'roni  the 
highest  point  reached,  latitude  70°  4.V,  became  a,  necH'ssiiy  by  the  giving 
eiit  of  the  ])emmican  and  by  severe  snow-blindness  and  exhaiisiion. 

Morton's  jonrney,  which  followed,  was  a  new  era  in  the  expiditjon. 
,hine  1")  he  reached  tlie  l)ase  of  the  great  glacier,  after  travelling  ilne 
iiurili  over  a  solid  area  choked  with  bt'igs  and  frozen  lields.  and  on  tlie 
sixth  day  after,  made  for  what  he  thonght  a-  cape,  seeing  a  vacancy 
heiweeii  it  and  the  west  land.  On  his  reaching  the  opening  he  fonnd 
il  a  channel,  its  month  covert'd  with  ice.  Al'tcr  turning  the  cape  lie 
iiiel  with  a  good,  smooth  ice-foot  in  the  entering  ciirNc  ol' a  bay,  ^^■l'ere 
(lie  laml  soon  grew  lower,  -a  long,  low  country  with  rolling  hiils 
(i|iening  to  the  \iew.  'I'he  ojtcn  water  was  black  with  doNc-kics.  lie 
icrn  were  nu'iieroiis.  and  Hying  high  o\-cr  head  were  large,  while  bi. 'ds: 
iiinllemokes  weri'  feeding  on  the  water,  and  then  ii\ing  over  it  v.ell  ;>ni 
to  sea.  N(!ver  had  the  birds  been  seen  so  numer'  us.  A  lloek  of  brcnl 
geese  made  ;i  eiu've  out  to  seaward,  and  then  Hew  far  ahead  i  vcr  tin- 
I'hiin.  showing  that  their  deslinatioii  was  inland. 

Ab)rton  walked  over  the  hnniiiioekt'd  ice  on  the  shallow  bay.  and 
^.IW  another  opening,  not  ([nitt'  eight  miles  across,  separating  two 
ishnids;  the  open  passages  were  lil'let'ii  miles  or  more  in  width,  lie 
iiii'il  in  vain  to  pass  entirely  round  this  cape,  inu'  c(;;dd  he  ascend  the 
vcr\   high  cliffs  more  than  a.  few  hundred   feet.      IJut   at   that    hciulil   he 


i\ 


■  1 


I 


I     : 


I!     :'  • 


i      ! 


,^,:| 


78 


AMKItlCAN    K.\I'L(»I;AT1()NS    IN    THE    K'lO   ZONKS. 


hislciii'd  t(i  lii^  w  iilkiiii^-pnlc  tlir  i\;\'j;  wliicli  liad  accdiiiiiiiiiictl  ( 'oiiiiiiodort! 
Wilkes  on  llic  Aiilaict  ic  Ivxpcdil  ion  nl'  |,S;;S— llJ,  and  Dcllavi'ii  in  tJic 
lirst    (irinncll     l">\|H'diii(in.       Ltiokinn'    oiil     u|)()n    tlio    j^rcat    washi    ol' 


wah'is  bidoic  liiiii,  ••not  a  speck  ( 


)l    lee  ((lUld  he  seen. 


1' 


I'oni  a.  Ikml 


•lit 


ol  4iS0  led,  \\  liieli  eoninianded  a  horizon  of  almost    I'oity  miles,  Ids  ears 

were  i^laddencMl    with   the   novel    mnsic  of  dashim;'   waxes;    and  a,  suif 

l)reakin<>'  in  amonii'   I  lie   rocks  at    his    feet    sta\cd    his    I'lirilier   i)ro<''ress. 

This  eheerinL;'  news  conlirmed  at  the  time  all  the  arn'iinu'nts  which  Ivane 


w 


'or 


had  i'evolve(l  in  the  \>;]>l.  in  ravoi'of  an   open    Tolar  Sea.      It  was,  ho 
e\('r,   the   last   achicNcmcnl    which   1  he    Iv\pediiion   could   secure 
the   season    ol'   Ai'clic    travel    had    now     endcil.    and    the    sunnner   wa> 
earini;'  on,  hut    the  ice  did    not    break  u\ 


\\ 


I.  as    was   exiieclcd 


anxious 


th<iu<;'hts  I'oi'  the  connn^'  year  were  inc\  ital)lc.  It  scemcil  as  if  a  second 
winter  must  oNci'take  llic  shi]>  hclorc  she  could  n'el  hall-way  through 
the  pack,  even  d"  warping'  to  the  S(Uilh  sliouhl  l)cL;in  at  the  earliest 
inomeiil  possible.  \r{  the  parly  were  eonrcssedly  ill-llll'd  for  another 
Arilic  season,  haxin^'  neither  health.  I'ucl.  n(U'  pidvisions.  On  the 
other  hand,  to  abandon  the  vessel  si'ciimmI  to  be  inexpedient  if  not 
impracticable,  as  i(  would  invoKc  the  necessity  ol'  carryinn'  sick-ami 
n(>w  ly  amputated  men.  -lUie-haU'  of  ihe  company  beini;'  disabled. 
Kane  thouulit  he  could  not  descil  the  brii;'  while  t  here  was  a  chance 
»d'  saving'  her. 

An  exploring'  iourn(\\  oi'  sixty  unles  conlirmed  his  belief  thai  he 
(U)uhl  not  escape  in  o|ien  boats,  and  he  delernuned  to  makt>  an  (d'fort 
to  communicate  with  Immm'Iu'v  Island,  and  the  I^nu'lish  s(puulrou  tluMc 
uiidei' Sir  Mdwanl  I»elcher.  Settinn'out  on  the  \-\\\  of  July,  willi  live 
volunleei's,  he  I'ound  the  pack  solid  from  Jones'  to  JNlurchisou's  Sounds, 
and  tlu>  ice  still  inxcsiiuL;'  the  American  shore  sonu'  twenty  nules  i'roiii 
<  'a|ic  Isabella.  After  several  attempts  to  bore,  and  an  iitproaeh  within 
ten  miles  to  Cape  I'airy,  the  idiances  o(  further  success  utterly  failed. 
Xo  ('(Uirs(>  was  left  but  to  return  to  the  bri^',  and  look  forward  to  a 
second  winti'r.  In  Kane's  journ;''.  .Vie^iist  IS.  he  writes:  "  ]1\h  ho7'ri/>L' 
—  yes,  that  is  the  wcu'd  to  look  forward  to  another  year  of  disease 
and  darkness  to  be  met  without  iVesh  food  and  without  fuel.      I   should 


niGC 


t  it,  \Mth  a  more  Icmpt'ied   sadness   il"  I    iiad   no  eomra(K's    to    tliinl 


for  and 

lar^^e  sig 
of  (h.sasti 
and  I'ale. 
lookinn-  ( 
llic  w  oi'd 


A  pyi'air 
placed  t  h 
ruck,  a  j_: 
II, lines  (d' 
ix'cn  mad 
('111  ire  des 

Vet   .-■, 
searcliino' 
lit  the  Sol 
])roiiiole(I 
iieilliei'  rii 
duty  of  III 
the   later 
iiiiuht,  he 
any,  he  (hi 
a  st'cond  \ 
mined  esc, 
to  Ihem  I'll 
I'oi'cgo  the 
pei'iuissioii 
of  (he  roll 
siirviN'iu's  1 
with  thcu'r 
clastic  step 
left  beiiiui 


nil 
-.1. 
;i 
hi 
use 
,.1.1 
Ilk 


TIIK   CRISIS,    AIJOUST,    1854.  79 

iiir  iiiid  [>i'ol(H;t."  ilc  (lutennincd  to  pluci^  on  Obscrvaltnv  Isliind  a 
l;n',u(!  sig'iiiil  hciicon  or  caini.  l)mviii;;'  under  il  ddcniiicids  wliicli,  in  ciisu 
(if  (lisastor  lo  the  |>ariy,  Avonld  coiiNcy  iiiicllii^cncc  ol'  tlKjir  prococidint^s 
iiimI  liiic.  lilt'  ln'iicon  was  erected  on  a  eidl',  npoii  a  l)roa(l  faco  of  rock 
1(11  ikiiij;' out  upon  the  icy  <leserl.  On  it  were  painled,  in  larj^U!  UitUirs, 
llie  wdi'iis,  — 

A  I )  \'  A  N  ( !  Iv 

A.  1).   ls:,:;-;)4. 

A  |i\rainid  above  lliis  was  iii,iii\e(l  will  a  ei'oss  ;  undcMiieatli  W(U'e 
|.laee(l  (lie  ('oriins  of  llic  two  de;.(l  sraiiieii.  Neai'  l»y.  in  a  hole  in  the 
luck,  a  i)aper,  eiicloseij  in  o-jjiss,  sealed  in  with  melted  lead,  t;ave  the 
II, lilies  (if  the  snivivois.  and  the  results  of  the  explorations  which  had 
iiceii  made.  The  [>arty  then  ])rej)ait'd  themselves  i'or  the  possibility  of 
(■III  ii'C  desliiiet  ion. 

^'cl  .-  >me  of  lliein,  incliidinj^'  Petersen,  who  had  been  out,  in  the 
sc;ircliiii;4' expedition  with  ("aptaiii  I'eiiny.  now  belie\ cil  that  an  (!sea|)0 
lo  the  South  was  still  practicable,  and  that  the  safely  of  all  would  b(> 
])romole(l  by  withdi'awal  iVom  the  bii<4'.  To  detach  ai:y,  Kanc!  thoUL^'ht 
iirilher  liohl,  in  itself,  nor  practically  safe;  porsonaily,  it  was  a  "simple 
duty  of  honor  to  remain  by  Hie  bri_n' "'  lill  he  had  pro\cd  the  (diect  of 
1lie  latiM'  tiiles;  and  alter  that  it  would  be  too  late.  IWit.  couk!  wdiat 
iiiiiiht,  he  would  share  her  fortunes.  "N'et,  v  :,d(!  he  would  not  (hdach 
;iiiy,  he  did  not  think  he  had  the  moral  lin'ht  to  (haaiii  any  throu«4ii 
a  second  winter.  lie  madt^  a  linal  ins|)ectioii  of  the  ice,  attain  didcr- 
mincd  escape  to  be  impossible,  and  t  hen,  callini;'  all  hands  and  explain ir,n> 
lo  them  I'lilJx  I  ludr  t  I'ue  eondit  ioh,  St  reiiuously  ad\ised  that  they  should 
torego  the  poject  of  ret  uriiiiiL;'  Soul  h,  Init  addid  t  hat  he  would  f reedy  give 
|it>rmission  to  any  who  were  di'siriuis  to  make  the  attempt.  At  tluicall 
<d'  the  roll  each  man  aiiswereil  for  himself,  and  tML^lit  iMit  (d"  the  seventeen 
survivors  rtsoUcd  lo  stand  by  the  brii;'.  On  tin-  iJcSth,  liberally  snp|»ii(>(l 
wjlji  th(dr  portion  of  the  resoiu'ces,  the  (M^ht  otliers  moved  oiT  witli 
elastic  ste|),  under  the  leadership  of  Dr.  Hayes,  leaviujj^  the  littb;  number 
left  behind  to  the   pressure  of  the  thoughts  of  the  wauing  eflieieucy  of 


i!ir 


!      I 


Ai 


! 


w^ 


80 


A.MEIMCAN    KXI'LOIIATIONS    IN     Till:    ICK    ZONKS. 


all,  the  iiii[ii'ii(liiii;'  cold,  dark  iiiL;lil  nl'  w  inter,  ilicii-  pdviMiy  of  rcsoiiiccs 
and  tlu'  dreary  si'iise  of  eoiiiplele  is(tlatioii. 

Dr.  Hayes,  ill  his  "  Arctic!  lioat  .lounioy,"  puhlislied  in  ls71.  jirescnh 
tlie  I'ollowinu'  iiceount  ol"  tlioir  sepiiralioii,  with  liis  reasons  for  leaving 


the   bnu' 


The   ice  in  the  centre  of  tlu!  channel   had   hrokeii   iiii,  an 


had  drilled  down   into   Force  Hay.     Ksca[)e   for   the   I) 


ri!4-  was   liojiele 


S 


I  ted.     VAtU 


II'  could  not  he  liberatect.  iMtlier  ot  two  courses  was  now  ojien  to 
lis,  —  to  leinain  by  the  hv'v^  and  try  in  her  the  chances  of  a  second 
winter,  or  to  si'ck  safety  in  our  Ixials  to  the  South." 

"That  everythiiiL!,'  ])ossilile  luul  been  done  towards  the  attainiuent  ol' 
the  objects  of  the  cruise,  \\'as  not  doubted  by  any  oflicer  or  man  of  the 
brig's  coni|iaiiy  ;  and  certainly  t he  cliaractei' of  the  coniiiiander  niii^'hl 
itself  ha\('  been  r<'lied  upon  by  tlieiu  as  a  suflicient  t;'uaraiilee  of  the 
liopidi'ssness  of  I'uliire  elforts  when  he  had  renounced  them  as  fruitless. 
The  (|Ueslioii  wassinijily  when  we  should  set  out  lioincward  —  whether 
we  should  pa^s  ilie  winter  in  the  \cs.sel  and  start  for  Tpei'mivik  in  the 
SpriuL;'.  or  m,d<e  the  allcni];!  without  further  delay.  In  I'illicr  case  we 
ill  us  I  abandon  all  thought,  cither  of  further  explor.il  ion.  or  of  prcser\  Iul; 
the  briLj,'.  The  recen;  (ibserval ion.-,  of  Dr.  ivane  had  been  such  as  to 
jtrevchl  his  detachinL;'  even  an  e\ jx'rimental  party  to  i!ie  South,  so  ureal 
dill  llie  perils  of  a  journey  in  that  direction  appear  to  him.  <  )n  ilir 
other  hand,  so  uru'ent  were  oiir  lu'ccssities,  and  so  (iiriicull  of  solution 
the  problems  upon  w  liich  de])eiide(l  the  safety  of  the  jiersons  under  him. 
that,  although  his  natural  V;ias  as  I'ommaiider  iiu'liiu'd  him  to  stay  by 
the  \cssel  at  whatever  cost,  yet.  he  rightly  consi(U,'reil  it  unjust,  now 
that  the  cruise  was  in  effect  ended,  to  interpose  t  he  W(  iuht  (>!' his  ol'licial 
anlliorily  to  deterniiiu'  the  choii-e  of  time  for  our  seliinn'  out.   .   .   . 

"•In  addition  to  ;  he  nioii\  cs  which  inllucnceil  the  ri'solul  ion  ol'  others, 
tiiere  were  sonic  which  had  pei  uliar  relation  to  myself  as  medical  olli- 
(■(''•  of  the  l)rii;'.  To  remain  in  her  duriiiL;'  the  coniiiiL!,'  winter,  a'.d  thus 
..t-ee  'oL''  Hi(  ,'  so  lar^'e  a  number  of  jiersons  as  the  entire  company,  in 
(|iiarle',-  '  straitened,  subjected  to  tli(>  worst  causi-s  of  disease,  withoul 
the  m.  t  i'.-^  Ml''.  il  means  eit  .er  of  prevention  or  cure,  would.  I  fell 
.i.-siro  '■  iMi|)\eii  the  bri^'  i.sU)  a  mere  hospital,  where  the  most  depress- 
ing   ,nll  ;   iiee.-i    must   be  e  iji'eudered.     Orij^'iually   prt'|)ared   for  only  a 


' 


single  w 

luindred 

must  bn 

ill   quail 

mainly 

vatiiig  S( 

to  be  fa 

leave  th 

vK'ut  nui 

Those  re 

Kane,  wi 

disease  ^ 

should  J) 

miinerou 

(tf  that  ]i 

ill   the   S 

"Itw 

ill  boats  1 

had  prev 

which  aw 

after  the 

ward,,  it  1 

to  trausjii 

in  Septeii 

which  ori 

selaer  Ba 

"The 

])ect    of  a 

him  to  th 

the  jiack 

and  woul 

esca'pe  to 

a  (lueslioj 

''On   f 

experieiic 


!l|P| 


I 


Till-:   SKPAUATION,    AlKJUST,    1854. 


81 


single  winter,  wo  had  now  completely  exhausted  our  fuel,  except  seven 
hundred  and  hlty  tons  of  coal,  after  the  consumption  of  which  we 
must  break  up  the  ship  ;  and  our  remaining  provisions,  although  ample 
ill  quantity  for  the  'jntire  company  through  the  wintei',  consisted 
mainly  of  salted  meat,  which,  from  its  effect  in  producing  and  aggra- 
vating scurvy,  as  shown  by  the  lust  winter's  sad  experience,  threatened 
to  be  fatal  to  men  in  our  condition.  If  one-half  the  company  should 
hsive  the  vess(^l  to  try  the  southward  joiiiuey  there  would  be  a  sul'ii- 
cicnt  number  (»f  men  in  each  party  to  form  a  complete  cgiinizatioii. 
'['h()S(!  remaining  with  the  vessel  would  have  th(^  })rofessional  skill  of  Dr. 
Kane,  with  augmented  means  of  health  and  comfort;  and  tlu;  cause  ol" 
disease  would  hv  ])roi)ortionally  diminished.  If  the  travelling  party 
should  perish  by  the  way,  the  deaths  would  probably  not  be  mcn-e 
nimierous  than  if  all  should  continue  together;  and  whatever  the  fat(^ 
of  that  ]iarty,  the  persons  at  this  brig  would  l)e  in  improved  condition 
in  the  S])ring. 

"It  was  reniembi'ivd  by  all  ol'  us  that  to  make  a  Southward  Journey 
in  boats  to  U})eriiavik,  rather  than  io  liazard  a  second  winter  in  the  i(;e, 
had  previously  been  re{)eatedly  discussed,  as  among  tlu;  alternatives 
which  awaited  us ;  and  it  was  a  subject  long  familiar  to  all  of  us.  If. 
after  the  com))letion  of  the  Spring  work,  the  season  should  \)v.  l)ack- 
ward,  it  had  been  regarded  as  one  of  oui'  recognized  means  of  safety, 
to  transport  boats  and  provisions  over  the  ice  to  open  m  'r,  and  early 
in  Se[)tend)er  to  push  southward.  This  was  one  of  t 
which  originally  inlluenced  J)r.  Kane  in  favoi-  of  w 
sclaer  JJay. 

"The  failure  of  his  late  expedition  to  lieechey  Isl; 
])('ct  of  an  early  winter  (for  the  young  ice  was  m 
him  to  the  conclusion  which  he  announced  to  his  oflicers,  namely,  that 
the  pack  in  the;  North  Water  which  had  bal'Hed  him  we  ild  still  remain, 
and  wouM  interpose  an  insurmountable  barrier  to  any  attempt  to 
escape  to  the  South.  T]iis„however.  he  submitted  to  our  judgmei'ts  as 
a  (jiu'sliou  u[)on  which  (>ach  of  us  was  now  calliMl  to  H.''ik  for  himself. 

''On   the  other  liand.  it  was  believed  by  Mr.  Petersen,  whose  long 
experience   of  the    movements   of  Arctic   ice   entitled  his   opinion   to 


insiderations 
ing  in   Keiis- 

;,  and  the  pros- 
ig  rapidly),  led 


'% 

"! 

1 

I   M 

i 

I 

il 

.    L 

i» 


I 


82 


AMKIMCAN    KXI'LOIIATIONS    IN    Till':   ICK   ZONliS. 


'/J 


r 


great  rc^i'tct,  tliat  this  Xortli  Water  'pack'  had  never  previoush' 
been  (ihscrNcd;  tliat  it  was  iiicri'ly  accidental ;  and  tluit  such  Avas  the 
raj)i(Hiv  of  ice  ninNcnients,  we  had  excry  I'eason  to  bcdieve  that  it 
woiihl  entirely  disaj)|iear  \\ithin  two  wi'eks.  ^Vgain  :  if  a  party  shunhl 
isneceeii  :ii  the  attempt  to  reach  IJperiiavik  (tlie  distanee  to  whieh  was 
not  _L;i'ealei'  than  that  to  JJeeehey  Ishiiid),  tliey  \\()uhl  there  pass  the 
winter,  and  heint;'  directly  in  the  line  (d'  the  lial'lin  Ba}'  ■\vhalers. 
(which  j^o  annually  within  from  one  hundred  to  one  hundred  and  iii'ty 
miles  of  Smith  Strait),  they  could  n'ive  inl'ormation  ol'  the  condition  ol 
the  "Advance,'  and  by  means  ol'  either  one  ol"  tintse  whalers,  or  of  one 
of  the  small  sloo[)s  known  to  Ix;  at  the  J)anish  settlements,  communica- 
tion could  be  opened  to  Keusselaer  Harbor." 

The  narrowed  eom]»aiuonsliip  of  the  eom])any  reinaiiiiiig  on  the  brio- 
seems  to  lia\c  aionst'd  all  'heir  remaining  energies  in  ])roviding  i'or 
their  daily  necessities,  with  tlie  cherished  hoix'  of  better  things  still  in 
store.  The  niontiis  of  St'[i(eml)er,  ()cte:!>er,  and  November  were  idled 
with  the  occupations  of  taking  care  of  tlie  ship,  and  securing  for  food 
the  bear  and  the  warns;  the  luuneious  Arctic  hares  fed  the  few  doQ's 
which  were  left.  Ivane  himself  found  the  rats  as  an  article  of  diet  less 
invitinu;  but  also  less  hurtful  to  health  than  the  liver  of  tlu'  bear. 
They  were  too  numei'ous  to  ];ernnt  anything  to  be  stowed  below  (h^cks, 
(h'st]'o\ii)'i'  even  the  men  s  beddin<>'  in  the  forecastle. 

At  one  time  in  this  dark  [)eriod  Morton  and  Hans  tracked  the 
Eskimos  to  l^tah,  bringing  l»ack  two  hundred  ami  seventy  ponndii  of 
walrus-meat  and  a  coui)le  of  foxes.  A  party  from  that  settlement  liad 
pre\iously  maile  a  visit  to  the  brig,  committing  a  inimber  of  acts  of 
theft;  but  the  stolen  goods  had  l)een  recovereih  tlu-  thieves  punished, 
and  a  treaty  binding  thelnnuits  that  they  would  not  henceforth  steal, 
uiurid  bring  fresh  meat,  sell  of  lend  their  (higs,  and  show  where  game 
conld  be  I'onnd.  was  now  ratitied,  by  the  Kabdn-nahs,  witli  the  ])rouiise 
thai  they  AN'onld  not  visit  the  Eskimos  with  any  hurt  or  luiscdiief,  would 
make  them  welcome  aboard  shij).  trade  with  thein,  and  make  Ihem 
presents. 

December  8,  Bonsall  and    Petersen,  two  of  those  wlio  luul  left  the 


hrig  more  t 
mI'  the  EsK 
iviurned  li 
lliree  huiid 
\<\v  more  th 
liies  who  ; 
dirierent  se 
I  iiciiisidves 
luity-two  d( 
(■Miiiinnmis 
mocks  in  g( 

Within 
el'  those  ini 
started  to  1 
The  I'eiiiain 
jeiii'ney  in  t 
w  as  moic  th 
ice.  i>y  Se| 
;nid  l>al'lin"s 
liKire  coiufoi 
I  he  \\diale-b( 
away  for  ( '; 
dead  calm. 
Were  oil  ilu 
lliem  on  eve 
lirm  and  sec 
l>ay.  (\im]i 
visited  by  so 
ii|)  their  alxK 
until   their  r 

The  whol 
Dicnt  that  tl 
h'oiii  the  ves 
I'arry.  an  Ei* 
li\fd  almost 


DK.    IIAVKS    KKTIUNS. 


88 


•j;  inoro  tluiii  three  luoutlis  l)efore,  were  brought  l)aek  on   {\w.  sledge 
the    I'^^kiiaos,  and  on  tlie   I'Jth    Dr.  Haves  also   eaiiie   in.      I{ih'\   had 


K  tiinied    live    days    after    li'aviii 

il 


l/r.    llav 


es 


|iarl\-    liad 


l()Uriie\(M 


lire 


e   hundred  and   litlv   nules,  with    llie    llu'rnionieler  at 


■>u' 


ll\  lie. 


r,ir  iiioie  than  two  months  on  fro/en  seal  and  walriis-nieat.  The  l^ski- 
iims  wlio  aeeomjtanied  theiu  on  the  return  l.ad  heen  engaged  i'roni 
(linerent  settlenieiils  on  the  way,  exei'pt  the  voluntecu'S  who  added 
liiciiiselves  as  they  neareil  the  hrig,  till  tliey  numbered  six  drivers  and 
luit v-two  dogs.     The  wdiole  party  of  natives  took  a  sound  sleep  and  ii 


iiiii 


linuous  feed  on  tlie  "Advanec,"  and  passed  off  through   the  hum- 


limek^  m   <J^n^n 


\  Spirits,  stt^althily  earrying  some  kniv(>s  and  forks. 


Within  a  verv  few  davs  after  leavincr  the  brin"  th 


e   courage   ot  some 


(if  those  under  Dr.  Hayes  had  steadily  waned,  a  seeond  man  liaving 
st.irled  to  return,  and  a  third  eoming  very  near  to  a  like  decision. 
The  I'cmaining  eight  ])ersons  attempted  to  continue  their  Southward 


iiirne\'  in  two  boats 


liiit  before   reaehinfr  Littli!^"'-   Island  everv  lead 


w  le 


more  than  once  closed,  and  the  boats  and  c 


I'agged   over  the 


ire.      \>y  September  G  seve.>ty-tive  miles  liad  been  made  in  eleven   days, 
iattiirs   l^ay  0])ene<l   before  them  with  the   delusive  jiromise  of  a 


I    i 


iimre  comfoilable  journey.  (living  three  lusty  (dicers  I'oi'  r])ernavik, 
ihe  \\hale-bo;it  and  the  "  Forlorn."'  now  called  the  "(lood  Ibipe,"  stood 
away  for  ('a]ie  Alexander,  fourteen  miles  distant.  Passing  this  in  a 
dead    calm,   after   a    tt'iiipestiioiis    time,  on   the    8th  of  Septenilier   they 


Were  on  their  way  to  Northumberland  Island,  but  with  a  pa(dv  around 
iliem  on  every  side  at  the  mouth  of  Wliaie  Sound,  the  ice  iKung  iiku'c 
tirm  and  secure  than  it  had  lieen  exi)t'cte<l  to  be  found  even  in  Abdville 
Hay.  (\imi)ing  uext^  on  tlie  shore  of  l)oolh  r»ay,  the  little  ])arty  were 
visited  by  some  I'^skimos  from  \etlik,  and  they  were  coni[)elled  to  take 
ii|)  their  abode  at  iirst  with  them,  and  al'terward  \\ithin  reach  of  them, 
until   their  return   to  the   '•  Advance.'" 

The  whole  story  of  their  absence  has  l)een  siinime(l  up  in  the  state- 
ment that  they  Avere  frozen  up  at  a  distance  of  three  hnndreil  miles 
from  the  vessel,  and,  building  at  liooth  P)ay,  thirteen  miles  below^  Cape 
t'arry,  an  I^skiino  hut  in  the  crevice  of  a  rock,  for  three  uioidhs  they 
li\i'd  almost  without  lire  or  light,  subsisting  upon   such   small  sup[)lies 


84 


A.MEUH'AN    KXIM.OKATIUNS    IN    TIIK    H'K    ZoNKS. 


I     1 


^||!"I 


of  walrus  ineut  as  tlu'j  could  piDcure  from  luitives  living  fifty  miles 
distant.  At  times  tiiis  precarious  supply  utterly  failed  them.  Bein^ 
situated  uj)on  the  most  harreu  part  ol'  this  inhospitable  coast,  the\ 
were  always  unfortunate  in  their  iiuntinif  excursions,  and  at  one  time 
for  three  weeks  had  nothing  to  cat  hut  stone  mo^^s,  scoopt'd  from  the 
snow-covered  rocks.  ForUinalcly  they  were  sjjarcd  the  horrid  alterna- 
tive of  eating  each  other  hy  the  timely  ai)pearance  of  the  Eskimos, 
but  at  last  were  driven  hy  starvation  to  move  back  toward  tlicii 
vessel,  by  I  lie  aid  of  the  l-'.skinio  dogs  and  sledges,  niaking  the  Iohm 
journt-y  hy  /iKinti/ii/ht,  \\'h\[  the  t licrnionieter  never  less  than  70°,  and 
often  85°  below  freezing,  teaching  Cape  Alexander,  the  entering  Cajie 
of  Sni'th's  Strait,  they  fomid  an  open  cracdc  in  the  ice  live  miles  in 
width,  while  numerous  smaller  cracks  broke  up  the  ice  two  miles  to  the 
south  of  it;  and  here,  pushing  forward  at  the  head  of  the  party.  Dr. 
Hayes  attemjjted  to  lca]i  one  of  these  cracks,  but  alighting  upon  a 
piece  of  ice  which  he  sujtposed  to  be  solid,  was  precipitated  intcj  tlic 
Wii^^er,  and  though  rescued  by  hi,;  com|»anioiis,  was.  in  s[)ite  of  his  bear 
and  seal-skin  clothing,  wii  to  the  skin.  IJeaehing  the  opcui  watci'. 
he  found  the  only  chance  to  [)ass  the  Cape  was  on  the  ice-foot  (a  mass 
of  ice  giui'd  ui)  against  the  rocks)  in  places  not  three  feet  in  width. 
This  the  i'^ski.i  os,  accustomed  as  they  were  to  all  sorts  of  peril,  refused 
to  do  until  intiundated  by  Dr.  Hayes's  pistols.  'I'hev  crawled  slowh 
round  this  shelf  of  ice,  clinging  to  the  devices  of  tlie  rocks  with  their 
naked  hands,  the  watt-r  twenty  feet  vertically  below  them  lashing  the 
icy  shore,  the  thermometer  50°  below  zero,  the  blasts  of  wind  raging 
like  the  voices  of  demons  through  vast  caverns  in  the  rocky  wall  that 
towered  al)ove  them,  whirling  down  sheets  of  crisped  snow  upon  their 
heads;  and,  to  complete  the  horror  ol'  the  scene,  the  moon  having  sci 
behind  the  mountains,  the  water  was  l)lack  as  ICrebus  in  the  glooni\ 
shadows,  except  when  broken  by  a  phosi)horescent  wave.  They  had 
to  run  lifteen  miles  after  passing  the  Cape  to  reach  the  nearest  Eskimo 
station,  and  Dr.  Hayes  was  onlv  kept  alive  bv  his  driver 


poi 


i\ 


with  his  whi])-stoek.     As  it  was,  his  body  was  badly  frozen  in  luai 
places.     On  the  brig  he  was  immediately  cai'cd  for  in  the  kindest  man- 


uer. 


Kane  gav?  up  to  him  his  own  bunk. 


Tlie  a 

time  not 

I  lie  good 

Id  compe 

I  .viiihitin 

(if  duty  1 

liiiiistdl'  t 

,.r  IH54. 

.1  sc(;ond 

might  ha 

than  was 

tempting 

which  in 

('\|)editio 

liol :  and 

in  an  enu 

too  havin 

this  expe( 

in   his  ins 

possible,  !i 

and  forcec 

to  strengt 

tliey  couh 

As  the 

the  hope  ( 

seciined  rii 

bisiuiit,  wi 

W(!re  fed  o 

ing  ;  six  o. 

near  losinj 

save  the  d 

the  dogs  I] 

"almost  s( 

Tlie  ev 


'Iv 
'ir 

U' 

lilt 

■ir 

ii\ 

:ul 

11(1 

iiii 

II  \ 

III- 


ANOTIIKU    SLKIKiK    TKII' 


85 


'I'he  ai"gimu'iits  wliicli  liave  been  cited  hud.  (l()u!)tli'ss,  soenicd  at  the 
time  not  oidy  to  justif}  the  (l('i)arture  ol"  this  party,  Imt  l<»  ictiuire  it  for 
I  he  good  of  all,  and  an  iniitartial  review  of  theii-  wli(»l(!  ('(tndition  seems 
III  (compel  tile  jiulgniont  that  the  Conuiiandor  of  iho,  '•  Adviiiiee,"  thongh 
ixhihitiiig  at   all   times  a  most,  conseieiitions  desire!  for  the  performanee 
1,1  duty  to  each  uiie  intrusted  to   his  care,  erred   in   not   taking  U|»on 
liimscdf  the  responsibility  of  a  return  bel'tre   the  closo  of  the  summer 
(if  l(Sr)4.     The   eoMseionsiK^ss  of   an    iiial»ility   to  secure   [)rovision    for 
,1  seeoiid  Arctic  winter,  and  the  diseased  condition  of  the  shi])'s  party, 
iiiight  have  been  miu-h  weightier  arguments  for  deleiinining  his  course 
tlian  was  the  merest  j)ossil)ility  of  saving   the  brig,  or  even   [\iv  more 
iiiii{)ting  inducements  ol'  making' furtluM'  disco\(>ries,     ( 'eitaiiily,  that 
which  in  the  outset  he  liiid   set    before   him   as  the   prime  object  of  the 
expiMlitioM      -the  rescue  of  Krankliii — had    been   taken  out  of  his  con- 
trol :  and  it  was  iiid'oit uiiately  triK!  that  he  had  no  second  vessel  on  which 
in  an  emergency  tit   fall   back   for  supplies,  those  of  the  original  oi>t(it 
liKi  having  been,  as  will   be   remeinberi'd.  very  scanty.     The   history  of 
tlii.s  expedition  strikingly  conhrms  the  judgment  of  Secretary  Preston 
in   his  instructions  to  the  hm  ships  of  the  lirst  exixMlition  to  avoid,  if 
|)()ssible,  a  second  winter  in  the  ice.     On  the  other  hand,  the  suffei'ings 
and  forced  return  to  the  ship  by  the  party  under  Dr.  Hayes  would  seem 
tu  strengthen  Kane's  judgment,  that  if  all  the  rest  had  accomjianied  him 
tliev  couUl  not  hav(i  reached  I'pernavik  lieforci  the  winter  of  1855. 

As  the  year  closed,  Kane  made  one  more  necessary  sled  journey  in 
the  iiope  of  collecting  walrus  beef,  chieny  for  McGary  and  Ibooks,  who 
stunned  rapidly  sinking.  'I'he  only  diet  for  the  trip  was  some  meat 
liiscuit,  with  a  few  rats  cho])ped  up  and  frozen  into  tallow  balls.  Thcchigs 
W(!re  fed  on  tlieir  dead  brothers,  one  of  them  dying  in  the  very  act  of  eat- 
ing ;  six  of  the  eight  soon  l)ecame  useless.  Both  Kane  and  Petersen  were 
near  losing  their  lives  in  a  hut  of  refuge,  and  as  a  forced  necessity  to 
save  the  dogs  and  themselves,  th»\y  returned  to  the  brig  on  foot,  driving 
the  dogs  before  them.  Their  walk  of  forty-lour  miles  in  sixteen  hours, 
-almost  stMidding  before  the  gale,"  closed  their  year  1854. 

The  events  which  filled  the  remaining  time  of  the  expedition,  the 


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A.Mi:i!i('A\  i;\i'r,(>i:.\'n(»Ns  in    i'iik  H'l:  /omcs. 


rt'st  of  the  Winter  iiiid  llic  Spriii^^'  iind  Sniniiicr  iiiontlis  iihlil  tlic  i-flicf 
ol'  tiic  |i;iily  liy  (  iiiiliiiii  I  liiitstcnc,  S('|ilriiilirr  II.  \S.'\.'),  were  of  llic 
most  s()iiil>r(!  cliiiriiotcr ;  tli(.'  (vw  reliefs  in  tlie<liiik  |iieliiif  Iteiiinj  llie 
(»|ili(iil  iiiiily  1)1' ii  second  \  isit  lo  the  <:fi'eiit  noitiiein  t^liiviei'.  now  doselv 
observed  l)y  Kiiiie:  the  pi'esei'vnt  ion  ol"  life  nnder  the  most  nnpromisin;;' 
conditions ;  th(!  Iieroie  fori  it  ndc  shown  l)y  the  men  under  Kane's  leiidino- 
oxiimplu;  and  their  linid  rescue. 

.hiniiary  14,  IH.")."),  Knne  wrote:  -Our  sick-  are  about  the  same.  How 
jjfratel'ul  1  oui;ht  to  be  that  I,  the  weaklin'^'  of  a  year  a^'o,  am  well,  and 
a  helpim;'  man.  Ilnl  the  present  state  of  things  cannot  last.  The  siel< 
ve(|uire  meat,  and  \\(!  have  ijut  tliree  days'  allowance  —  thin  ehip>  of 
raw  walrus,  not  exceeding'  four  ounces  in  weight  for  each  man  per 
diem/'  He  set  out  to  get  help  from  the  lower  Msl^imo  settlement,  but 
again  tlie  doj^'s  faile(l  him,  one  of  the  four  falling  into  frightful  convul- 
sions. Hans,  adventurous  and  buoyant  as  he  usually  was.  cried  like 
a  child,  and  Kane,  sick  and  worn-out,  found  his  own  ('(pianinutv  at 
fault.     A  renewed  attempt  under  Petersen  met  with  a  like  failure. 

A   KELii:F    sun*    I' IM) VI DIM). 

At  the  homes  of  the  explorers  in  the  Tnited  States,  when  the  second 
Winter  set  in  without  bringing  home  the  ••Advance"'  and  her  crew, 
the  most  serious  alarm  for  their  fate  had  been  felt  by  iheir  friends. 
The  ordinary  apprehension  of  danger  in  Arctic  service  was  increased 
by  the  experience  of  the  Winter  which  had  passed,  and  the  deficiencies 
of  the  outfit  for  a  second  season  in  the  ice  were  remembered.  Congress 
was  memorialized  by  the  societies  which  had  encouraged  the  undertak- 
ing, and  the  general  sentiment  of  the  people  pressed  upon  their  Repre- 
sentatives for  a  Relief  Expedition  in  the  coming  Spring.  A  Joint 
Resolution  of  Congress,  api)roved  Fclu'uary  3,  1855,  authorized  the 
Secretary  of  the  Navy  "to  provide  and  despatch  a  suitable  naval  or  other 
steamer,  and,  if  necessary,  a  tender,  to  the  Arctic  Seas  for  the  rescue 
or  relief  of  Passed  Assistant  Surgeon  E.  K.  Kane,  U.S.N.,  and  the 
officers  and  men  under  his  connuand."  This  was  followed,  March  3. 
by  an  appropriation  of  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousaiul  dollars  for  the 
object  named  in  the  Resolution.     The  bark  "  Release,"  of  Boston,  and 


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Hiotographic 

Sciences 
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23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14SS0 

(716)872-4S03 


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llie 
Miiich  li 
>'ii  hoard 
(IdU'd  on 
tliroiitjfli 
iiv  Kaiu; 
Eskimos, 
had  just 
ii'diU'cd 

The  « 
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wt'oks. 

With 
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to  kill  11 
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advance. 

When 
was  at  1 
I'reparati 
crew  wit 
complete 
Kane  an 


SUUVCY    OF   THK   (UIHAT   GLACIEU.  Xi 

"lie  |)r(tp('ll('r  ••  Arctio,"  of  IMiil;i(l('l[)lii;i,  wi-ic  prDciiriMl,  and  I'spcfuiliy 
jiiic(l  and  eiiuipficd  lor  the  service  under  the  sn[»er\  i>ii»n  of  l^ieiiti-iiant 
llenrv  J.  Ilartstene,  t(»  wlwini  tlie  Cdnuiiand  td'  (he  expeilitiou  was 
assiii'ncMl.  Full  rations  and  extra  :)rttvisi()ns  Tor  two  vears,  with  clothinij' 
adajtted  to  an  Arctic;  climate,  were  provided,  ami  otlii(.'rs  and  men 
selected  by  the  CommancU'r  were  delailc<l  hy  tin;  Department. 


The  Secretary  was  not  acting  prematurely,  f(»r  the  same  month  of 
.March  iiad  found  Kane's  party  in  nt)  improveil  ('((udition — every  man 
iiii  hoard  being'  tainted  with  scurvy,  and  the  last  renuiant  of  fresh  meal 
doled  out.  It  was  not  until  the  loth  that  a  fresh  supply  was  received 
through  another  visit  by  Hans  to  Ktah  ;  it  was  renewed  by  a  jourm  y 
liv  KaiK!  himself  to  this  most  northern  Winter  settlement  of  tlm 
Eskimos,  al)out  seventy  nules  from  the  brig.  At  that  time  the  natives 
had  just  began  to  liunt  with  avidity,  after  fanune  and  disi-ase  had 
re(lueed  them  to  the  lowest  state  of  nusery  and  emaciati<;n. 

The  sun  had  come  back,  Febriuiry  21,  from  a  disapjiearanee  of  one 
hun(hed  and  forty  days  below  the  rocky  shadowing  of  tlu^  brig:  Dr. 
Hayes,  through  sickness,  had  not  seen  him  for  live  months  and  two 
weeks. 


':r-^*l! 


With  the  close  of  April  Kane  made  his  last  effort  to  explore  (he 
further  shores  beyond  Kennedy  Channel.  lie  had  but  foiu-  dogs  left 
out  of  sixty-two,  and  his  Eskimo  friends  had  been  obliged  by  fanune 
to  kill  nearly  all  their  own  stock  ;  but  Kane  succeeded  in  securing 
their  assistance  with  three  sIckIs,  and  ])ressed  uj)  higli  enough  (o 
survey  the  great  glacier  so  gra[)hically  described  in  his  second  vohuncK 
but  could  not  prevail  on  the  Eskimos  to  make  a  further  northward 
advance.  ' 

When  May  came,  everything  admonished  the  party  that  the  time 
was  at  hand  v/hen  they  must  leave  the  brig,  and  trust  the  iloes. 
l'rei)arations  for  this  had  been  making  for  sonu;  time  ])ast,  and  the 
crew  with  the  returning  season  had  now  gained  sullicient  health  (o 
complete  them.  On  the  20th  tin;  whoh;  ship's  company  l)rought  t(» 
Kane  an  engagement  reciting  that  they  fervently  concurred  with  the 


' 


14 


I!  .! 


88 


AMKUK'AN    KXPLOKATIONS    IN    THIO    ICK   ZONKS. 


("oninitiiider  in  liis  uttonipt  to  reach  the  South  by  boats;  and  that  they 
had  deteriniucd  to  abide  laithi'uUy  by  the  expedition  and  the  sick,  and 
advance  the  objects  in  view.  Their  hist  visit  was  now  made  to  the  brig, 
the  ilags  were  lioisted  and  tlien  hauled  down,  and  a  statement  affixed 
to  a  stanchion  near  the  gangway,  showing  tiie  necessity  for  abandoning 
the  ship,  to  remain  longer  upon  which  could  in  no  manner  advance  the 
search  i'or  Franklin,  but  only  jjrove  destructive  to  men  who  had  already 
suH'ered  from  the  severe  climate  and  disease.  Her  upper  spars,  bulwarks, 
deck  siieathing,  bulkheads,  and  other  parts  had  already  been  consumed 
for  fuel.  She  lay  upon  ice  nine  feet  in  thickness.  The  party  had  two 
whale-boats,  each  twenty-four  feet  in  length,  and  a  light  cedar  dingy 
ol  thirteen  feet;  these  were  mounted  on  runners  eighteen  feet  long, 
shod  with  hoop-iron,  and  lashed  together  so  as  to  form  a  pliable  sledge. 
The  sick  and  the  reserve  of  provisions  were  transported  on  a  sledge  by 
a  team  of  dogs,  Kane  himself  performing  this  ollice.  The  month  closed 
with  these  occupations. 

On  the  very  last  day.  May,  1855,  ''by  u  coincidence  which  cost  som^ 
effort  to  bring  it  about,"  precisely  two  3-ears  after  the  sailing  of  the 
party  from  New  York,  T-iieutenant  Ilartstene's  Relief  Expedition  of  forty 
oHicers  and  men  sailed  from  the  Brookl^'u  Navy  Yard,  pressing  north 
ward  for  the  lelief,  while  the  disabled  party  were  forcing  their  suffering 
way  South. 


'I..  !; 
I.     ■ 


liy  tlu!  middle  of  June  all  of  Kane's  disabled  men,  and  some  twelve 
hundred  pounds  of  stores,  had  been  transported,  by  journeys  of  in  all 
1,100  miles,  to  Annatoah,  their  first  sick  station.  The  U.  S.  Coast- 
survey  theodolite,  the  a])])aratus  furi'ished  by  the  American  Philo. 
sophical  Society,  and  the  valuable  library  were  left  behind;  the  docu- 
ments of  the  Exi)edition  were  carried  forward.  June  12,  when  the 
boats  and  sledges  had  come  to  a  halt  in  the  narrow  passage  between 
the  islands  opposite  Cape  Misery,  a  message  from  Dr.  Hayes  reached 
Kane  in  the  "Advance"  boat,  informing  him  that  Christien  Ohlsen 
had  died.  The  body  of  this  tried  and  courageous  man,  sewed  up  in 
his  own  blankets,  was  carried  in  procession  to  the  head  of  a  little 
gorge  on  tlie  east  face  of  Pekiutlik,  and  by  hard  labor  consigned  to  a 


B 


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KANE   AND  HAUTSTENE   AT   GODHAVN. 


89 


suit  of  trench,  and  covered  with  rocks  for  i)rotection  from  the  fox  and 
I  lie  hear.     A  small  tablet  of  lead,  on  which  were  inscribed  — 

CIIUISTIEX   OHLSEN. 

Aged  ;J0  yt'iirs. 

was  laid  on  his  breast.  The  Cape  of  Littleton  Islands  that  looks  down 
nil  him  hears  his  iiaiiu>. 

The  Eskimos  of  Ktah  faithfnlly  assisted  the  party  throughout  the 
wliolf  of  this  heavy  transport  over  the  ice  uj)  to  the  margin  of  the  Hoe, 
(III  reat-hiiig  which  the  boats  were  transported  over  eighty-one  miles  of 
uiil)r()ken  ice;  the  party  had  walked  three  hundred  and  sixteen  miles 
ill  thirty-one  days.  F'rom  that  point  the  next  ten  miles  was  run  in  one 
day  under  sail,  when  they  were  again  forced  to  make  alternate  move- 
ments over  ice  and  water.  They  had  perpetual  daylight,  but  halted 
regularly  at  bedtime  and  for  meals.  On  the  lower  part  of  the  journey 
toward  (Jd\)ii  York,  which  they  reached  on  the  21st  of  July,  they  found 
I  lie  birds  in  abundance,  and  they  succeeded  in  drying  on  the  rocks  for 
the  transit  of  Melville  Bay  two  thousand  j)ounds  of  the  Lumme.  After 
Imilding  at  the  Cape  a  beacon  cairn,  and  depositing  the  records  of  the 
i'^xpedition,  the  crossing  of  Melville  Bay  was  effected  with  renew(>(l  sulVer- 
iiig,  the  party  being  consolidated  into  two  boats ;  —  the  third  was  needed 
J'or  fuel.  August  6,  on  the  eighty-third  day  after  leaving  the  "Advance," 
they  arrived  at  Upernavik,  and  were  welcomed  with  characteristic  lios- 
pitality.  Passage  was  immediately  taken  in  the  Danish  brig  "■  Mariane," 
its  Commander  engaging  to  land  them  at  the  Shetland  Islands;  but 
toiu'hing  a  few  days  at  Godhavn  on  the  11th,  when  they  were  on 
the  eve  of  setting  out  for  Europe,  the  lookout  man  at  the  hill-iop 
announced  a  steamer,  and  when  it  drew  near,  the  Stars  and  Stripes  were 
recognized,  the  boat  "Faith"  was  lowered,  with  the  little  Hag  that  had 
visited  both  hemispheres  opened  to  the  breeze  ;  and  as  Kane's  party 
ciimo  alongside  of  the  "Release,"  "Cai>tain  Ilartstenc  hailed  a  little 
man  in  a  ragged  flannel  shirt,  'Is  that  Dr.  Kane?'  and  with  the  'Yes,' 
that  followed,  the  rigging  was  manned  and  cheers  welcomed  them  back 
to  the  social  world  of  love." 

(October   11,  18')/),  Capt.  ILirtstene    re[)orted    to    the    Secretary  of 


■  l' 


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mai!Tsti:m:s  iikpokt.  01 

the  Niivy,  from  New  York,  the  Jiniviil  of  the  lifteeii  survivors  of  the 
i;.\|)('(lhioii  on  board  tlic  two  licliel'  vessels;  statiiij^-  in  his  hrid'  h'ttci 
iliiit  they  hud  been  reeeived  on  board  at  I.ievely,  after  niakint;'  ilicir 
w.iv  (h>wn  the  coast  in  boats  and  sh'd^es  by  unpreeech'nted  enerj^y  and 
(Iclerniination.  The  "Keh'ase"  and  the  ".\rctie"  iiad  both  proved 
iliemselves  all  that  eoidd  l)e  desired,  particularly  the  "Arctic,"  which 
had,  in  addition  to  her  steam  motive-iiower,  the  (piulities  of  ii  j^dod. 
\V(>atherly,  moderate-saiIin;4  vcssi'l.  They  had  been  severely  ni[)[»ed 
and  chafed  l)y  the  ice,  but  were  f^enerally  in  good  eoniUtion. 

The  Commanding  Ollict-r  had  saile(l  '•^  iiiUrammclleil  hij  an]i  »fn'ii- 
i/riif  iiixfi-Hctiotts^^  from  Secretary  Dobbin.*  lie  had  experienced  a 
boisterous  outward  passage  of  twenty-seven  days  to  Disco,  with  indi- 
cations there  of  such  a  state  (»f  the  icy  region  before  them  that  "in 
order  to  avoid  further  risk  of  human  life  in  a  search  so  exceedingly 
hazardous,"  he  had  there  suggested  to  the  T)ei»artment,  '"the  inipro- 
jiriety  of  making  any  efforts  to  relieve  them  if  they  should  not  return. 
—  he  felt  c(ni(ident  of  the  ability  of  his  olVicers  to  accom[)lish  their  own 
release." 

On  the  passage  to  Upernavik  ho  had  met  with  two  Scotch  whalers 
from  Aberdeen,  latitude  GO"  39',  longitude  (JS"  30',  and  at  once  hoped  for 
news  of  Dr.  Kane's  party  from  them,  but  was  disai)point(d.  lie  had 
the  opportunity  of  putting  on  board  a  despatch  for  the  Department, 
with  letters.     I'he  whalers  said  that  Melville  Bay  was  so  [)ac!<ed  with 

*  Xavai,  liKconn  of  tuk  Offici:i!s  of  tiik  IkFi.n:F  Smi's.  —  Homy  J.  Ilartstciic 
ontorcd  tho  Niival  Service  as  Midshipman  April  1,  ISiiS;  promoted  to  be  liieiitenaiit,  Im-I)- 
niary  2ii,  1S40;  to  i»o  Commander,  September  14,  IS.Vi;  died.  ISTl*.  Charles  ('.  Sinmis, 
connnanding  the  *'  Arctic,"  entered  the  service  as  Midshipman.  October  9,  is;]'.);  promoted 
to  l)e  Passed  Midshipman,  .Inly  15,  1845;  to  be  a  Master,  Jannary  15,  1854;  to  be  Lieuten- 
ant, August  12,  1854.  Acting  Master  W.  S.  Lovell  entered  the  s(>rvice  November  8,  1847; 
promoted  to  l)e  Passed  Midshipman,  .June,  18.5.3;  to  he  a  Master,  September  15,  1855;  to 
be  a  Lieutenant,  September  16,  1855;  resigned,  May  3,  18J)'.».  Watson  Smith,  Acting  Mas- 
ter, entered  the  service  October  19,  1841;  promoted  to  be  Passed  Midshipman,  August  10, 
1847;  to  be  Lieutenant,  September  15,  1855.  .1.  P.  Fytfe  entered  the  service  September  9. 
1847;  promoted  to  be  a  Master,  September  15,  18.55;  to  be  a  Lieutenant,  September  1(J, 
1855;  to  be  Lieutenant-Commander,  July  1(5,  1802;  to  be  a  Commander.  December  7,  18t)7; 
to  be  Captain,  January  18,  1879.  Ilarman  Xewell  entered  the  service  September  22,  1849; 
promoted  to  Second  Assistant-Engineer,  February  20,  1851;  to  be  First  Assistant,  May  21, 
1853. 


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AMKItirAN    KXI'liOlJATlONS    IN    THK    K'K   ZONKH. 


ivv  lliiU  all  lisliiiii;-  slii|)s  liiul  tunuMl  hack  in  (lospiiir,  and  that  to 
uHiMnpt  its  passag*'  would  hi'  to  foiilVont  thiiigor  to  no  |mr|)os»\  llart- 
sttMie  and  Siinius  pressed  forward.  Alter  nioorinj;  to  her^s  Tor  some 
days  near  Wed<^<'  Island,  tin'  ict'  without  any  aj)|>arent  canse,  exeei)t 
the  rcniarkahle  njysteiions  eurrents,  disaj>peiired,  leaving  them  to  steam 
nninterruptedly  into  the  elosely-paeked  lloe  ol"  Melville  Hay.  In 
twenty-eiylit  days  more  th(>y  had  erossotl  it,  and  were  in  the  North 
Water. 

In  an  article  written  for  "  Pntnam's  Ma*jja/ine  "  for  May,  iHfitJ,  Dr. 
.1.   I*.   Kane,    Actint;   Assistant  Snrj^^eon   of   the   "Advance."  wlu'n  (\v- 
scrihing  this  crossinj;;.  says:  "  The  navi_Ljation  of  Melville   Hay  is  aftv'r 
its  own  kind  and  no  other.     Sometimes  the  nips  wonld  scineeze  ns  like 
a  shellltark  between  a   paii'  of  nnt-crackers ;  sonu>times  all  hands  were 
ont  on  the  ic*'.  towing'  like  horses  of  a  canal-hoat ;  sometimes  we  wonld 
make  a  hard  mile  a  day  by  [)lanting  anchors  in  tiie  ice  ahead,  and  «h'au^j;inu: 
onrselv(>s  np  to  them  hy  the  capstan,  —  all  liands  at  work,  fi'<nn  the  cap- 
tain to  the  ship's  cook.     At  other  times  we  wonld  get  uj)  steam,  and,  ex- 
<'ept  that  we  might  have  to  hntt  onr  way  throngh  one  or  two  projecting 
tongnes  of  wv.  we  woiUd  have  an  nninterrnptecl  rnn  for  twenty  or  thirty 
miles  on  a  sirt'lch.     All  this  time  Captain  Ilartstene  kept  the  <h'ck  with 
untiring  iMiergy,  conning  the  shijis,  and  selecting  the  most  favorable  leads 
himself.     His  arm  was  in  a  sling,  as  he  had  received  a  seveic  injury  in 
getting  out  coal  in  the  Waigat,  where,  as  usual  with  him.  he  was  bent 
upon  proving  he  cmild  do  more  hard  work  than  any  two  other  men.     At 
hist  he  foil  down  the  ctunpanion-huhler  and  sjirained  his  ankle,  and  some 
of  his  junior  olViccrs  thought  that  now,   at   least,  they  would  liave  a 
chance   to  show  their  skill  in   conning.     Hut   they  reckoned  without 
their  host.     To  the  surprise  of  everybody  he  lim|)ed  on  deck,  onhned 
a  rope  to  be  tied  round  his  body,  and  by  the  aid  of  a  couple  of  sailors 
was  hoisted  to  the  luasthead.  from  which  ])oint  he  gave  his  orders  as  if 
nothing  had  happened.     Perched  uj)  in  a  st)rt  of  tub,  called  the  crow'vS- 
nest,  with   a  bowl  of  soup  sent    up   to    him    to    keep  body  aiul  soul 
together,  there  he  staid  f(n-  thirty-six  hours  on  a  stretch,  with  tlie  ther- 
mometer below  the  freezing  point,  rather  than  risk  the  tt)rture  of  a 
sei'ond  hoistino." 


IIAltTSTKNK  S    CAIUNH. 


98 


Af^aiii  <lisii|»p()int<Ml  by  rnnlinpf  no  tiHct'H  wlmtevrr  of  men  at  Cape 
Alrxaiulrr,  or  al  SntlinlaiMl  Island  near  li\,  llailstmc  U-lt  upon  it 
tlic   following   records,   wliicli,   at    the   later   date   of  Angnst   J5,  1H7»», 


(  ;iptain 


All 


in     lounjjf,    on    Ins    soe(>n(l    voyage    o 


I 


>!'    tl 


le 


I'and 


ora. 


lonnd  in  u  pnl|>y  state  within  a  demolished   eaini.      They  were;  still 
decipherable,  a'.nl  ('ajttain  Yonng  forwarded  them  to  the  United  States 


Slate   Department:  — 


Cai'K  AiJCXANDKit,  Angnst  Itl,  lHr»r). 


"The  United  States  brig  'Arctic'  ileparti'd  from  her  consort,  the 
'  Kelease,'  on  the  morning  of  the  ir)th  inst.,  ofV  Wolsteidiolme  Island, 
iiirived  here  this  day,  and  having  nnide  nnsmuicssful  search  foi-  traces 
nf  Dr.  Kane  or  Sir  John  Franklin  and  thi^ir  associates,  proceeded 
nnmcdiately  on   to  ('a|»e   Ilathcrlon   for  the  same  pnrposc. 

"11.    .1.    IlAltTHTENK, 

^'- Ln'ufnianf-<'(>m)nandinf/  i\  S.  An-tir  K.r/»'t/i(inn. 

"  i^'turned  here  iVom  ('ap(!   Ilatherton  Augnst  18,  having  received 

iMf(»rmation  from  ICskimos.     Dr.  Kane  had  lost  his  v(!ssel,  and  gon«'  in 

his  boats.     I  am  g<»ing  to  liecchcy  Island. 

"  nAirrsTi'Ai;."* 


,  ill 

^Mili 


"  AiTorsT  11>,  18.')'). 
"I  have  returned  from  Cape  Hatlierton,  and  on   my  way  to  rejoin 
you.     If  I  miss  you,  remain  off  Cape  Alexander  till  I  retnrn. 

"  IIautstionk." 

"Unitkd  Statks  Him(j  'Aiictic,' 

('aim-:  Ai.exandeh,  August  IG,  1855. 
"Stij, —  Finding  no  traces  of  the  missing  ones,  I  shall  proceed  imme- 
diately to  Cape  Hatlierton,  in  continuance  of  the  search,  where  you 
will  join  us.  .  .  .  You  will  re-enter  the  record  of  our  touching  here, 
together  with  another  from  yourself  to  the  same  effect,  all  your  records 
to  be  within  seventy-two  feet  north  by  compass,  on  a  cairn  erected  on 
the  most  conspicuous  and  accessible  point.     Respectfully, 

"H.  L.  Haktstene, 
^^  Lieut enant-Commandiny  Arctic  Expedition. 
" Lieut. -Com.  Charles  C.  Simms,  U.  S.  bark  'Kelease.'  " 


1 

[i 

i 

f  1 

1  i 

!    ! 


If 


i.  « 


i        i  ! 


II    rl  \ 


i 


•ii' 


«»t  AMKItlCAN    KXri-OllATlONS    IN   THK    ICIC   ZON'KS. 

Passing  iiiitlicr  iiortliwjird,  lie  (lis('(»v('r('(l  (lie  first  si^'iis  ol"  the 
missing  party  at  IN-lliani  INiint.  Tlu'sc  signs,  liowcvci',  were  IVw  and 
iinini|)(irtant,  proving  only  Kane's  visit  at  tliis  placci  in  \S,')'-].  Deter- 
mining to  push  on  as  far  north  as  possible,  the  ('onimander  roniKhMl 
I  his  point,  hit.  7.S' •)!'':  hnt  was  then  oji[»ose(l  by  a  solid  hummoeky 
lield  of  iee.  withoni  visible  limit  and  interspersed  with  Ixu'gs,  all  drifting 
sonthward.  lie  dro]»|ted  with  this  drift  under  sail,  examining  ('a|te 
Ilatherlon  antl  Littleton  Island,  and  linully  taking  refuge  under  a 
]»rojeoting  point  lifteen  miles  northwest  of  Cape  Alexanch'r.      lli-ri'  \w 


was  liist   hailed  l)\    human  voi 


ees. 


('ondu(!ted  l>v  two   Kskim(»s  who 


liad  come  ashore,  the  jiarty  who  lauded  ])aeed  along  the  borders  of  a 
lini'ly  sheltered  bay  some  three  miles,  over  an  endless  carpet  of  gay 
pojtpies  and  (»ther  wild  Ijowers,  which  forme(l  patterns  upon  tlie  soft 
and  ]iah'  green  grass,  and  canu^  ujton  the  Eskimo  settlement  at  Ktali, 
—  seven  snudl  sununer  tents  eovereil  with  eauvas,  but  l)la(dv  with 
erusted  grease  and  dirt.  The  thirtv  iidiabitants  w'ore  alveadv  assembled 
on  a  green  mound  in  front  of  tlie  village  to  greet  Ilartstene,  Lovell,  and 
Dr.  Kane's  brother,  all  of  them  ei'vinu'  with   one  word,  hullo  I  liuUoI 


» " 


and  then  with  a  nu'asured  a(;eent,  "  Doeto  Kayen  !  Doeto  Kayen 
A  close  examination  of  the  most  intelligent,  aided  b}'  an  Eskimo 
vocabulary,  brought  out  the  repeated  declarations  th.at  the  ice  had 
crushed  Kane's  vessel,  and  he  had  goiu'  south  with  sledges  and  boats. 
IMay-oid<.  the  Eskimo  examined,  swayed  his  body  backward  and  for- 
ward, drew  the  iigures  of  Kane's  boats,  scjuatted  down,  imitating  the 
gestures  and  >  lice  of  a  dog-driver,  and  agreed  with  all  the  others  in 
the  number  oi  th(      artv  which  had  gone  south. 

'I'he  relief  shi[)s  i(>aving  Etah,  stood  over  to  Lancaster  Sound  with 
the  design  of  reaching  lieechej^  Island.  liut  again  the  ice  debarred 
their  course,  ])reventing  the  Commander  from  executing  the  com- 
mission of  erecting  on  the  island  the  monumental  tablet  sent  out  by 
T^ady  Fiaidvlin.  Having  made  the  whole  circuit  of  the  Northern  part 
of  IJatKn's   Hay.  exce])t  the  dee[)  indentation  between  Capes  Comber- 


mere   and  Isabella,   a'  i   having  fruitlessly   examined   Possession   aiu 
Pond's  Hay.  Ilartstene  returned  south  to  Upernavik  and  Disco, 
hitter  place  receiving,  as  has  been  related,  the  missing  explorers. 


1 


at  tl 


le 


In  K; 

llic  \\nr 
western 
7>    in 
l;i';irly  » 
i-  lii(ik( 
1  Mil    isl 
;iii   ;Ut1 
;i-]iccl    o 
l.iiids  fr( 
(.f  pieci| 
Its  geoli 
liiiieston 

>tM||CS      tl 

iirc  in  sei 
iipcks,  an 

"  The 
rested  by 
and  ran  ( 
tiiiii  in  t 
(iivenlau 
mass  ada 
overlies, 
(limlar  fa 

"The 
interest, 
sort  of  es( 
landsca})e 

••  It  WJ 
land,  trer 
Tlic  huge 
glacier  I 
(■mini  r\in 


UKI'OIJT   TO   SKCKK.  .»KY    DOlWUN.  DO 


i!i:roi;ri:i»  i;i:sri/rs  or  tiik  kxphditiox. 

Ill  Willie's  iiiiiil  l{t'|M»rt  to  tlic  Secretary  nl"  tlie  Navy,  he  sninniarizes 
I  II'  wmk  (it'  this  Expedition  l)y  saying:  "•  (iici'iilaiid  readies  its  i'mtliest 
wfslrrii  |Hiiiit  at  Cape  Alexander,  in  llie  neij^lihorliood  (d"  latitude 
'^'  !<•  N.,  and.  alter  j»assiiijf  Innnitiide  70^  W.  of  (Jreeiiw  ieli,  trends 
i.inly  (hu'  east  and  wcsi  (  K.  liO"  N.).  'I'liis  nortliern  lace  (»!'  (ireenland 
i~  liiukeii  l»y  two  lai'_i>;e  bays,  at  the  hase  ot"  which  are  niiiiiernns  ;;rani- 
1  id  islands,  which,  as  you  apjiroaeh  Ion.  (i.V  \V.,  assume  the  I'orin  of 
iiii  archipelai;<  .  I-'il'teen  islands  were  surveyed  and  h)eateil  hen-.  The 
;iv]icct  (d'  the  coast  is  iinposin<^,  ahnttini;'  U[)on  the  watei'-lino  in  head- 
l.iiids  iVoni  eit^ht  hunch-ed  to  fourteen  hundred  feet  hi^h,  and  one  ranj^e 
it  pieci|»iee  presenting  an  unbroken  wall  of  forty-live  miles  in  len<;th. 
Its  i;'eoh)t;ieal  structure  is  of  tlu;  ohh'r  red  sandstones  and  Silurian 
limestones,  overlyinj^'  a  primary  basis  of  massive  syenites.  The  sand- 
^iipiies  to  till'  south  of  TS°  seem  to  form  the  lloor  (»f  tlu*  ba}'.  'J'hey 
lire  in  series,  with  intercalated  greenstones  and  otlie  rejected  plutonic 
lucks,  and  form  the  (diief  f^inh'rs  of  the  coast. 

••The  further  ))ro_nress  of  our  parties  toward  the  Atlantic  was  ar- 
rested by  u  great  glacier,  which  issued  in  hit.  70"  12'  N.,  Ion.  (14°  20'  W., 
and  ran  directly  north.  This  forms  an  insuperal)le  barrier  to  exi)h)ra- 
tion  in  this  district;  it  is  continnous  with  the  >/*t'/' f?t' ///aw  of  interior 
(ireenland,  and  is  the  largest  true  glacier  known  to  exist.  Its  great 
mass  ada|)ts  itself  to  the  eontiguration  of  the  ))asis-coiintry,  which  it 
overlies.     Its  escari)ment  al)utting  upon  the  water  presents  a  perpen- 


dicular lace,  var\ 


ing  from  three  to  five  Imndred  feet  in  lieight. 


••The  lines  of  crevasse  and  fracture  are  on  an  unexampled  scale  of 
interest.  Tlu;  bergs,  which  are  ejected  in  lines,  arrange  themselves  in  a 
sort  of  escalade,  which  confers  a  character  of  great  sublimity  upon  the 
landscape. 

••  It  was  followed  along  its  base,  and  traced  into  a  new  and  northern 
land,  trending  far  to  the  west.  This  land  I  have  named  Washington. 
Tlic  huge  bay  which  separates  it  from  the  coast  of  Greenland  and  the 
lilacier  I  have  described  bears  on  my  chart  the  name  of  our   liberal 


C( 


uiili\  iiiaii.  Mr.  Peabodv 


ill 


if 


i 

.  Ill 

1                     i 

■ 

HI 


\  { 


'  B 


n 


'If  I 


96 


AMKHICAN    KXI'LoltATHtSH    IN   THK   ICK  Z<»NI:h. 


"Tlio  c«»iist»  <»f  this  iii'W  tt'iritniv,  adjoining  I't-ubody  liay,  have  been 
nctnriiti'ly  di'lincated  by  two  juirties,  whose  results  t'onvsjxnid.  Its 
south weHtoi'ii  eiiitc  is  iu  hit.  H0°  20'  N.,  by  ob.scrviiti.Mi  with  Jiitilicial 
horixoii ;  itH  h)ngitudi',  i>y  chronoujoter  uud  bearings,  kiC)'  4'S  W.  ol 
(ii'eenwich.  The  eapt!  was  doubled  by  William  Morton  and  our 
ICskinioH,  with  a  team  of  dugs,  and  the  land  to  the  North  traced  until 
they  reached  tlu;  large  indentation  named  Constitution  Hay.  'IMic 
whole  of  this  liin'  \\as  washed  by  open  water,  extending  in  am  iceless 
chaniu'l  111  the  o|»|iosite  shores  on  the  west.  This  weshMii  land  I  have 
inscribed  with  the  name  of  Henry  (irinnell." 

"The  course  of  this  channel  at  its  southern  (tpcning,  was  traced  by 
actual  surv(!y  in  a  long  horse-shoe  curve,  sharply  delined  against  the 
8t»lid  ice  of  Smith's  Sound,  and  terminating  at  its  extremes  against  two 
iioblo  headlands  about  forty  mih's  ajiart.  'I'he  western  coast  was  fol- 
lowed in  subsecjuent  explorations  to  a  mural  face  of  nine  hundred  feet 
elevati(»n,  preserving  thrctughout  its  iceless  character.  Here  a  lieavy 
surf,  beating  directly  against  the  rocks,  checked  our  future  progress. 

"The  precipitous  headland,  the  furthest  |)oint  attained  by  the  party, 
was  named  (ape  Inde|»endence.  It  is  in  hit.  81°  22',  long.  05°  SA'  VV. 
It  was  only  touched  by  William  Morton,  who  left  the  dogs  and  made 
his  way  to  it  along  the  coast.  From  it  the  western  coast  wjis  seen 
stretching  far  toward  the  north,  with  an  iceless  horizon,  and  a  heavy 
swell  rolling  in  with  white  cai)s.  At  a  height  of  about  five  Imndred 
feet  above  the  sea  this  great  ex{)ans(!  still  presented  all  the  appearance 
of  an  open  and  iceless  sea. 

"It  was  approached  by  a  chainiel  entirely  free  from  ice,  having  a 
length  of  fifty-two,  and  a  mean  width  of  thiit3'-six  geograi)hical  miles. 
"The  coast  ice  along  the  water-line  of  this  channel  has  been  com- 
pletely destroyed  by  thaw  aiul  water  action  :  while  an  unbroken  b«'lt 
of  solid  ice,  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  miles  in  dianu'tcr,  extended 
to  the  south.  A  gale  from  the  northeast,  of  fifty-four  hours'  duration, 
brought  a  heavy  sea  from  that  quarter,  without  disclosing  any  drift  to 
other  ice.  Dark  nimbus  clouds  and  water-sky  invested  the  north- 
western horizon,  and  crowds  of  migratory  birds  were  observed  throng- 
ing its  waters." 


iU 


KANK   ON    TIIK  "  Ol'KN    IMH.AU    SKA." 


97 


"To  111*'  iinitlnist  'lu'  (Mtasts  hcfuiiH'  mountaiiniiis.  risinj,'  in  trim- 
(Mtrd  coiu'S,  likt'  iIm'  Ma^dali'iiii  ( Mill's  (•!"  Siiitzltcrj^cii.  i'lic  rmtlicst 
(li>tiiit'tly-Hi^'litt'tl  point  was  a  lolly  nn»imtaiii,  liL-arinn'  N.  a'  10.  (solar): 
its  lalilii(h',  l>y  cstiinatf  and  intt'isrction.  was  K.  '2"  ."lO'.  Its  lont^itndc, 
;)■>  tlnis  tU'li'i'iuintMl.  would  j;ivi)  M°  \V.  (approxiinalivt!)." 

'•riic  extension  of  the  Anieiican  coast  to  the  soutliwest  was  tho 
\\,irk  ol"  Dr.  Hayes  and  William  (JodtVey,  renewed  antl  conliinied  hy 
iii\selt  in  April  ol'  the  present  year;  it  i-onipletes  tho  survey  (d'  tho 
(diist  as  far  as  the  Cajto  Sahine  cd' Captain  In^^lelield.  The  laml  is  vi'ry 
lull \,  sometimes  rising  at  its  culminating  peaks  to  llu;  height  ^A'  two 
iliiiiisand  live  luunlred  feet.  The  travel  along  the  western  and  north- 
western coast  was  made  lor  Iht;  most  part  upon  the  iee-l'oot.  ()n»^ 
huge  l>iiy,  in  hit.  79°  40'  M.,  Ion.  73°  VV.,  Iiy  estimate,  exteiKh'd  forty 
miles  into  the  interior,  ami  was  tcrnunaled  hy  a  glacier.  A  hirge 
island  occupies  the  southwestera  curvt?  of  that  hay."' 

"The  operations  of  tin*  Expedition  com|)reheuded  the  survey  and 
delineation  (d"  the  U(U*th  coast  of  (Jreeidand  to  its  termiuati(tn  by  a  great 
'^hicier:  the  survey  of  this  glacial  mass,  and  its  extension  uorthward 
into  the  new  huul  named  Washington  :  the  disenvery  of  a  large  ehan- 
iiel  to  the  mirthwcst,  free  from  ii-e,  and  leading  into  au  open  and 
e\|iandiug  area  e(|ually  free,  the  whole  embracing  au  iceless  area  of 
i'diir  thousaud  two  hundred  uiiles ;  the  discovery  and  delineation  of  a 
huge  tract  of  land  forming  the  extension  uorthward  of  the  American 
(uMt incut,  aud  tlu;  com])leted  survey  of  the  Auu'ricau  coast  to  the 
south  aud  west  as  far  as  Cape  Sabine:  thus  connects  our  survey  with 
tile  last-determined  position  cd'  Ca})taiu  luglelield,  and  comi)lctiug  the 
circuits  of  the  straits  aud  bay  heretofore  kuown  at  their  southernmost 
oi)eniug  as  Smith's  Sound." 

As  regards  this  "open  aud  expanding  ieeless  area,"  here  l)ased  by 
Kane  on  Morton's  re))ort,  and  so  often  since  his  day  spoken  of  as  the 
Open  Polar  Sea,  it  is  but  just  to  quote  Kane's  impartial  judgment:  — 

"Beyond  Cape  Constitution  all  is  surmise.  The  high  ridges  to  the 
northwest  dwindled  off  into  low,  blue  knobs,  whicli  blended  finely  with 
the  air.  ... 

"  Au  o})cu  sea  near  the  Pole,  or  even  an  open  Polar  basin,  has  l)eeu 


w 


f^ 


If 


li 


i    I 


r 


li   :li^ 


m 


i?  i 


98 


AMKlllCAN    KXPLOUATIONS    IN    TIFK    ICK   ZONKS. 


a  topic  of  theory  for  a  long  time,  and  has  boon  shadowed  forth,  to  sonic 
extent  by  actual  or  sui)posed  discoveries.  As  far  l)a(!k  as  the  days  of 
liarent/,,  in  lolUI,  without  referrinj:^  to  tlie  earlier  or  more  ancertaiii 
chronicles,  water  was  seen  to  the  eastward  of  the  northernmost  cape  of 
Novaia  Zendia  ;  and  until  its  linnted  extent  was  defined  by  direcl, 
observation,  it  was  assumed  to  be  the  sea  itself.  The  Dutch  fisheimen 
above  and  around  Spitzbergen  pushed  their  adventurous  cruises  through 
the  ice  into  open  sjiaces,  varying  in  size  and  form  with  the  season  aui:! 
the  winds  ;  and  Dr.  Scoresby,  a  venerated  authority,  alludes  to  8ui;li 
vacancies  in  the  iloe,  as  pointing  in  argument  to  a  freedom  of  move- 
ment from  the  north,  inducing  ojien  water  in  the  neighborhood  of  the, 
Pole,  liarou  Wrangell,  when  forty  miles  from  the  coast  of  Arctic, 
Asia,  saw,  as  he  thought,  a  vast  'illimitable  ocean,'  forgetting  for  tlu! 
moment  how  narrow  are  the  limits  of  liumau  vision  on  a  sphere.  So, 
still  more  recently,  Captain  Penny  proclaimed  a  sea  in  Wellington 
Sound,  on  the  very  spot  where  Sir  Edward  Jielcher  has  since  left  his 
frozen  ships ;  and  my  predecessor,  Captain  Ingleiield,  from  the  mast- 
liead  of  his  little  vessel,  announced  a..  '  open  Polar  basin,'  but  fifteen 
miles  otf  from  the  ice  which  arrested  our  progress  the  next  year. 

"All  these  ?7/?<«yry  discoveries  were  no  doubt  chronicled  with  per- 
fect integrity  ;  and  it  nuiy  seem  to  others,  as,  since  I  have  left  the  held, 
it  sometimes  does  to  myself,  that  my  own,  though  on  a  larger  scale, 
may  one  da}'  ])ass  within  the  same  ratri/ori/.'"' 

i'im<:pakati()X  of  his  hook. 

On  Kane's  return  he  wrote  to  his  t)ld  friend,  Hon.  J.  P.  Kennedy: 
'  /ly  health  is  almost  absurd  ;  I  have  grown  like  a  walrus."  He  set  hini- 
^.-'f  immediately  on  the  laborious  task  of  [)reparing  the  Narrative  of 
the  Ex[)edition ;  but  the  change  from  an  active  life  to  unremitted 
sedentary  pursuits  soon  told  upon  his  health.  To  carry  through  in  six 
months  nine  hundred  jiages  of  book-matter,  supervising  also  three 
hundred  engravings  made  from  his  own  sketches,  and  all  this  com- 
l)licated  by  incessant  demands  on  his  time  and  toil  by  crowds  of  letters, 
was,  in  his  own  language,  "no  fun."  In  Sei)tember  he  wrote  to  JNIr. 
Cliilds,  his  ]nd)lisher,  "  the  book,  poor  as  it  is,  has  been  my  coffin."    The 


KANKS    AKCTIC    SKKTCMIKS. 


m 


sales  of  tlic  first  year  of  tlieso  volumes  reached  the  niuiiher  of  sixtj'-five 
tlinusaiid  copies,  realizing  the  sum  of  sixty-live  thousand  dollars  copy- 
riuiit  to  the  author.  A  brief  but  able  review  of  the  work,  written  in 
aiivanee  by  Mr.  Charles  Lanman,  of  Washington,  gave  a  large  impetus 
I'or  the  demand;  thirty  thousand  i)crsons  entered  their  subscriptions 
jx'l'on!  the  publication  of  the  volumes.  The  success  of  their  issue  has 
not  surprised  those  who  have  shared  in  the  wide  interest  of  Arctic 
|'A|>loration,  nor  even  the  general  nsader  outside  of  this  circle.  For 
tin-  volumes  contain  not  a  single  l)age  devoid  of  historical  or  scientific 
iiiicrcst,  and,  although  presenting  the;  form  of  a  journal,  are  unusually 
relieved  IVom  the  rigid  detail  of  an  itinerary.  With  the  transj)arency 
(il  truthfulness  throughout  notes  of  ex^jlorations  of  such  value,  the 
e\|)l<>rcr  and  writer,  by  his  very  constitutional  peculiarity,  embodied  his 
descriptions  in  poetic  prose,  his  jien  sketching  incidents  of  the  day,  as 
liis  pencil  did  the  lights  and  shades  of  scenery  forming  illustrations  of 
I  lie  volumes.  Of  these  sketches  one  of  his  comi)any,  Mr.  II.  Goodfellov/, 
siivs:  '•  They  were  nearly  all  made  on  the  spot,  the  more  elaborate  of 
tlieiii  linished  in  the  cabin.  It  is  dilllicult  to  conceive  that  the  picture 
(if  Sylvia  headland  is  not  engraved  from  a  photograph ;  and  the  por- 
traits o*:  the  Eskimos  ec^ually  excellent."  Hamilton,  whose  artistic  skill 
lar<;ely  increased  their  interest,  in  a  letter  to  Dr.  Elder,  Kane's  biogra- 
pher, comments  specially  on  "the  icebergs  near  Kosoak,"  "the  great 
yliicier  of  Humboldt,"  "Weary  Men's  Rest,"  "Beechey  Island,"  and  the 
"  Tinoe  Brother  Turrets,"  and  "Tennyson's  monument";  saying  gener- 
ally of  all,  that  whether  executed  with  every  appliance  or  with  half- 
thawed  ink  and  greasy  paper,  or  paste-board  accidentally  picked  uj) 
among  the  rubbish  of  the  ship's  store-room,  they  alike  present  the  faith- 
ful record  of  the  most  essential  features  of  the  subject.  The  original 
sketch  of  Tennyson's  monument  is  of  the  slightest  description,  and  in 
lead  pencil. 

'•  Hamilton  adds,  '  Now,  every  one  accustomed  to  study  nature  practi- 
cally is  aware  of  the  extreme  dititiculty  of  rendering  the  peculiar  texture 
;iii(l  tone  of  old,  time-worn,  weather-beaten  rock,  sandstone,  crushed 
debris,'  etc.  Its  successful  rendition  is  one  of  the  most  difticult  achieve- 
ments of  landscape  art.     In  the  sketch  of  the  subject  alluded  to,  these 


■  I! 


I 


lliif 

1^ 


1lf 

I 


,  .'1 


m 


100 


AMKIIICAN    KXPLOKATIONS    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZoNKS. 


qualities  (uolwillislinulinfjf  (ho  (joldiicss  and  sickness  siilVered  at  the  time 
of  exei'iitiiii;'  it,  mentioned  l)vtli(>  lamented  iiaviyator  in  his  journal )  uk 
seeured  t.o  an  extiMit  that  wouhl  he  ereditahh'  to  the  most  skiil'ul  artisi  : 
«'veiy  IVaufment  is  jotti'd  (h>\vn  with  a  |)eree|)(ion  and  I'eeHnt;'  whiidi  sei/r 
the  special  ohariicter  of  the  jninutest  ])article  delined,  and  yet  its  minn- 
tia'  in  no  wav  e(»n11ictiu<''  with  the  i>;iaudeur  of  (he  suhiecl.' 

The  power  of  i;iaj)1ii(!  description  in  the  writcu'  iiimseir,  alread\ 
referred  t(»  in  the  notice  of  the  (irst  Kxpedition,  is  yet  more  marked 
ill  the  two  later  volunu'S.  The  extracts  hei(»  <i;iyen  are  descriptive, 
—  the  first  of  a  perilous  jjass-age  through  the  Hoc,  the  second  of  the 
great  glacier  of  (ireenlaiid  :  — 

"August  •J('»,  IS."):},  ii  l)K'w  a  hurricane.    Wo  had  seen  it  coming,  and 


W( 


re   ready   with    three  good  hawsers  out   ahead  and  all  things  sni 


aboard.  Still  it  came  on  heavier  and  lu>avier,  and  the  ice  began  to 
drive  more  wildly  than  I  thought  I  had  ever  seen  it  before.  1  had  just 
turned  in  to  warm  and  dry  myscdf  during  a  momentary  lull,  when  I 
heard  the  sharp  twanging  snap  of  a  cord:    oin-  six-inch  hawser  had 


parted,  and  wt'  were  swinging  Uy  the  two 


a  lion. 


Hall 


rs,  the  gale  roaring  like 
I 


t  a  nuiiute  more,  and  twang,  I.  >m  ;'Mmt'  a  second  report: 
I  knew  it  was  the  whale-line  by  the  shrilliu  .-•  of  tae  ring.  Our  noble 
ten-inch  mainlla  still  hold  on,  and  the  crew  were  h)ud  in  its  praises. 
We  could  hear  its  deep  anilian  chant  swelling  through  all  the  rattle  of 
(he    runnini'-uear   and   moauimr  *d"   the   shrouds.      It   was   the  doatli- 


song. 


The   strands  o-ayo  way  with  (he  noise  of  a  shot(od  uun  :  and 


in  the  smoke  that  followed  their  lecoil  wo  were  dragged  (tut  by  the 
wild  ice  at  its  mercy.  ... 

"At  seyen  in  the  morning  we  were  cli>se  upon  the  piling  masses. 
We  dropped  our  heayiest  anchor  with  the  desperate  hope  of  winding 
the  brig,  but  there  was  no  withstanding  the  ice  torrent  that  followed. 
We  had  only  time  to  fasten  a  s[)ar  as  a  buoy  to  the  chain  and  let  her 
slip.     So  went  our  best  bower. 

"Down  we  went  upon  the  gale  again,  hel])lessly  scraping  along  ,i 
lee  of  ice  seldom  less  <^han  thirty  feet  thick,  (^ne  tloe  measured  b\  ;i 
line,  as  we  tried  to  fasten  it,  more   than   forty.     One  upturneil  mass 


il 


KANK    KKSCKIIUNC    A    STOIJM. 


101 


idsc  above  our  <;iiii\viil(',  sniiishin^  in  onr  Itulwarks,  and  <U'j)osi(iii{j 
hair  a  ion  of  ice  in  a  lunij)  on  deck,  lint  a  new  cnt'iny  caiiK!  in  sij^lit. 
|)ii('(lly  in  onr  way.  just  beyond  tlie  line  ol"  lloe-iee  against  wliicli  wo 
udf  alternately  sliding;  and  tbunipin^',  was  a  ^^j-oiip  of  icebergs.  Wc. 
had  no  |)nwer  !»»  avctid  them;  and  th(!  only  (inestioii  was,  whether 
\\,  were  to  be  dashed  in  jyieees,  or  whcdher  they  nii_<;ht  not  (dler  S(nn(! 
|iiii\  iilential  nook  ol"  rerni''e  from  the  storm.  .  .  . 

"\  bi'(»ad  scone  piece,  or  low  water-washed  lierij.  came  drivin<.>"  nj> 
IV, mi  the  southward.  'I'he  Ihonoht  Hashed  upon  m(!  ol"  one  of  oui' es- 
(■a|H'S  in  Melville  l»ay  ;  and,  as  the  suones  moved  rapidly  close  aIon«;- 
Abdary  mana<;'ed  to  plaid  aii  anchor  on  its  slope  and  hold  on  to 

\  a  whaledini'.     It  was  an  aiixicms  mouu^nt.     Our  noble  tow-horse. 


MMC 


II     l> 


Will 


tcr  than  the  jiale  horse  whieh  seumc( 


d  to  1 


10  pursuin<>'  us.  liaided  us 


liiavcly  on,  the  spiay  ihishinu^  over  liis  wimlward  Hanks,  and  his  i'oi'e- 
IickI  pluuj4hin*4'  U|»  the  lesser  ice  as  if  in  scorn.  .Never  did  heart-l"eerni<^ 
I  aeknowle(h'(^  Avith  more  <'ratilu<le   their  merciful  delivciance  from 


IIICI 


w  li 


Iflied  death. 


The  <la\  had  its  full  liials.  but  more  were  to  come 


A  llaw  (hove  us  our  shelter,  and  the  ^ale  soon  carrieil  us  beyond  the 
(11(1  t  '"  the  lead.  We  were  anaiu  in  the  ice.  Our  jib-boom  was  sna])pe<l 
(ill  ill  the  cap;  we  carried  away  onr  barricade  and  stanchions,  and 
\\i  re  fori'i'd  to  leave  our  little  *•  ICrie,'  with  three  brave  fellows,  out 
iijidU  the   lloes  behind  us.  ... 


"A  little  pool  (»f  water  at  lenj^'th  received  us.  It  was  just  beyond 
11  lofty  eape  that  rose  up  like  a  wall,  and  under  an  ic(^ber<j  that  anchored 
itself  between  us  and  the  «;ale.  And  hei'e,  (dose  under  the  frowidug 
shdie  of  (rnundand,  ten  miles  nearer  the  Pole  than  our  holdinu-irrouud 
tij  I  lie  morninu'.  the  men  turned  in  to  rest.  .  .  . 


r>  o' 


••  As  our  brij4'.  Ixune  on  by  the  ice.  commenced  the  ascent  (d"  the  ber<^', 
llic  siisjiense  was  ojipressivc.  The  immense  blocks  piled  against  her, 
v.iw'^v  upon  range,  pressing  themselves  under  lier  keel,  and  throwing 
lu'i'  ii|H»n  lu'r  side,  till,  urged  by  the  successive  accumulations,  she  rose 
slowly  and  as  if  with  convulsive  ei'forts  along  the  slojiing  wall.  Shock 
alter  shock,  jarring  her  to  the  very  centre,  she  continued  to  mount 
steadily  on  her  [)recarious  eradh'.  Hut  for  tlie  groaning  of  her  timbers 
Vdii  might  have  heard  a   pin  drop.      And  then  as  she  settled  down  into 


^!M] 


li'U 


'(      ! 


:] 

If' 

i 

) 

' 

1                ' 

i;     .; 

1 

.  1     ■ 

1  'i 

|!  j 

i'  I 

1* 

'■:|   ' 

i   . 


l!*.t^ 


lO-J 


AMKUK  AN    KAriiOI- ATI(>NS    IN    TIIK    WD   ZONKS. 


licr  old  position,  (piicllv  lakiiii,^  licr  |tlii('(>  iimoiiu;  I  lie  InokiMi  inl)l)isli. 
lluM(>  was  a  (loo[)  l)roatliiii|L;"  silence,  as  though  all  were  waitiii};'  lur 
some  sijj^ual  before  the  ihiinor  of  eonjrrat illation  could  hurst  forth." 

TIIK   (JItKAT   <;i,A(IKi;. 

The  gr»>at  glacier  of  North  ({reenland,  apiu'oached  hy  MctJary  ;ni(l 
Bonsall  in  tSoi?,  was  visited  and  surveyed  hy  |)r.  Kane  in  April  nf  tin 


year  foUowini;. 


Mv  recollections  of  this  <j[lacier  are  very  disliuci. 


The  day  was  heautifnlly  clear,  and  I  have  a  nnndter  of  sketches  niinlr 
as  we  drovi>  along  in  view  of  its  niagniliceni  face.  I  will  not  alleiii|ii 
to  do  better  by  llorid  descri|ilion.  Men  only  raphsodi/e  about  Niagar,! 
and  the  oi'can.  My  notes  s])eak  only  of  Ihe  loug  ami  ever-shiniii'.; 
clilf,  diminished  to  a  well-pointtMl  w«'do(>  jn  (lie  perspi'ctive  :  and  again. 
'of  tiie  face  of  glistening  ice.  sweeping  in  a  long  curve  fr(Mu  the  low 
interior,  the  facets  in  front  intiMisely  ilhuninated  by  the  sun."  Ibil  ihi-- 
line  of  clilf  rose  in  solid  glassy  wall  three  huinlred  feet  above  tlir 
water  level,  with  an  unknown  unfathoniabh^  de|)th  bent>ath  it;  ami 
its  curved  i'aci'.  sixty  miles  in  length,  from  Cape  Agassi/,  to  ('a|M' 
Fin'bes.  \anished  into  unknown  space  at.  not  mor(>  than  a  single  da\"s 
railroad  travel  from  the  Pole.  Th(>  interior  which  commands,  ami 
from  which  it  issues,  was  to  the  ey(>  unsurveyed  incr  (/<•  ;ihi('<\  an 
iee  ocean  to  the  t'ye  of  boundless  dinuMisions." 

"  It  was  in  full  sight,  —  the  n\ighly  crystal  bridg(>  which  connecis 
the  two  eontiiuMits  of  America  and  (Jreeuland.  I  say  coutinents  :  I'm 
Oveenland,  however  insulated  it  may  prove  to  be,  is  in  mass  strictly 
eontinuous.  Its  least  possible  axis,  nu^isured  from  the  line  of  this 
glaciiM-  in  tlu>  neighborhood  of  the  SOth  parallel,  gives  a  length  of  moir 
than  twelve  hundred  miles,  not  materially  less  than  that  of  Anstralin 
from  its  northern  to  its  southern  eajie.  Imagine  now  the  centre  ol 
such  a  i'(uitinent,  occupied  throughout  nearly  its  whole  extent  by  .i 
deep,  unbroken  sea  of  iee,  that  gathers  perennial  inerease  from  the 
water-shed  of  vast  snow-eovered  mountains,  and  all  the  precipitations 
of  the  atmosphere  upon  its  own  surface.  Imagine  this,  moving  onward 
like  a  great  glacial  river,  seeking  outlets  at  every  fiord  and  valley, 
rolling  iey  cataracts  into  the  Atlantie  and  Greenland  seas,  and  havini; 


TIIK    KXri.oltATluN    CO.MMKNKKI)    To   CUNCItKSS. 


\m 


ill  hisl  n'iiclu'd  (he  ikmIIktm  limit  ol"  liiiid  tliiit  hon^  it  up,  pouring  out 
II  iiiiij[Ii<y  tcUHMit  into  unknown  Aiclici  space.  It  is  lliuw,Jin(l  only  tliUH, 
tliiil  we  must  I'onu  a  just  contu'ption  of  ii  plicnomcnon  liko  lliis  trjcjit 
nlacicr.  I  lijul  looked  J'or  sufli  an  appeiirjinee,  should  I  ever  lie  I'oitu- 
iiiile  enough  to  reaeh  tho  nortlu-rn  coast  of  (Jieenland,  Imt  now  that  it 
\\;is  hel'ore  me,  I  (m»u1(1  haidly  r(!ali/,(!  it.  I  had  Kjcogni/.ed  in  my  (piiet 
liliraiy  at  home  the  heautil'ul  analogies  whitjli  Foihes  and  Studei'  have 
(IcNcloped  hetwuen  IIk!  glacier  and  tlu;  river;  hut  I  eould  not  at  lirst 
(■iiiii|»rehend  this  eom|»letc  suhstitution  of  ice  for  water.  It.  was  slowly 
ilial  th(>  eonvietion  dawntMl  on  me  that.  I  was  looking  upon  the  counter- 
part of  the  great  river  system  of  Arcti(!  Asia  and  .Ameiica.  Yet  here 
were  n(»  water-feeders  from  the  south.  Kv(M'y  particle  of  m(»istur(!  had 
lis  origin  within  the  j)olar  circle,  and  had  \)vv.n  i;onverted  into  ice. 
There  were  no  vast  allusions,  no  foicst  or  animal  tiiuuis  borne  down  by 
lii|uid  torrents.  Here  was  a  plastic,  n)oving,  semi-solid  mass,  oblitei- 
iiliiig  life,  swallowing  rttcks  and  islands,  and  ploughing  its  way  with 
ii  icsistibl(>  march  through  the  crust  of  an  investing  sea." 


ii* 


■  i;  .1 


'riu>  i)id)lication  of  Kane's  i)r(diminary  Ke|)ort  had  sulliced  for  the 
creation  of  an  innnediate  and  widt^sprcad  interest  in  the  work  which  had 
IxM'U  acH'omplished.  The  Secretary  of  the  Navy  comnmnd(!(l  the  results 
(if  the  exi)l(M-ations  as  worthy  of  the  attention  and  jtatronagc;  of  Con- 
gicss,  and  spoke  of  the  cruise  as  an  advance  in  the  frozen  regions  far 
beyond  those  of  Kane's  intrepid  predecessors;  adding:  "  His  residence 
lor  two  years  with  his  little  piirty  far  Ijcyond  the  confines  of  civiliza- 
tion, with  a  small  bark  for  his  home,  fastened  with  .icy  fetters  that 
(leti(>d  all  efforts  for  emancipation,  his  sufferings  from  intense  cold,  and 
agony  from  dreadful  a])prehensions  of  starvation  and  death  for  that 
sjjace  of  time,  — his  nnraculous  and  successful  journey  in  open  sledges 
over  the  ice  for  eighty-four  days,  —  not  merely  excite  our  wonder,  but 
borrow  a  moral  grandeur  from  the  truly  benevolent  considerations 
which  animated  and  nerved  him  for  the  task." 

Immediately  following  the  annual  Report  from  which  this  language 
is  cited,  a  correspondence  had  ensued  between  the  English  Ambassador, 
Mr.  Crampton,   and  the   State   l)e[)artment,   in    which  Mr.  Crampton 


i  ! 


1   .   ,ti 


1 ,    1 
li    i 


1 


■Ma 


\  -I 


\m 


M'' 


J 

It  I    i 

I'    ' 


104 


AMi:i:i('AN    EXI'LOKATIONS    IN    THE   ICE   ZONES. 


oflcMcd  for  her  M.ijosty's  Cntveniincnt  its  cordial  coiigratuliitioiis  for 
Kiiii(!"s  salt'  ri'turn,  witli  the  assuraiu'es  of  tlio  sincere  gratitude  of  t\\o 
(iovermiiciit  and  tlic  nation  to  iiini  and  to  Mr.  Grinnell  for  their  gene- 
rous exertions  and  their  liberality,  and  the  best  thanks  to  the  Govern- 
ment of  the  United  States  for  affording  aid  to  the  Expedition  in  search 
of  Sir  John  Franklin.  The  furtiier  statement  of  Mr.  Crampton,  that 
her  Majesty's  Government  felt  desirous  to  present  some  aeknowledo- 
ment  1o  Dr.  Kane  and  ^Ir.  (Jrinnell  for  their  generous  exertion^. 
I'esnlted  in  an  Act  of  Congress  permitting  the  reception  of  such  tokens 
as  her  Miijesty's  (iovei'nmeiit  might  see  lit  to  present  to  Dr.  Kane  ami 
the  ofliceis  who  served  with  liim  in  that  Ex[)edition.  The  (Queens 
Medal,  cunimemorative  of  their  services,  was  accordingly  struck  for  the 
ollieers  and  men  of  the  "Advance.*'  To  Mr.  Grinnell  a  laiu'c  and  costlv 
Silver  \'ase  was  j)resented,  'Ms  a  token  of  the  sincere  gratitude  and 
esteem  of  the  IJritish  Government  for  his  exertions  and  munilicence."  * 
The  liesolutioii  of  Congress,  of  a  later  date,  authorizing  the  Secretary  <il 
the  Navy  to  cause  to  be  struck  and  presented  to  the  ollieers  and  men 
such  medals  as  sh(»uld  express  "the  high  estimate  in  which  Congress 
holds  their  respective  merits  and  services,"  was  unhaiipily  accom- 
l»anied  by  no  a])])ropriation  to  carry  it  into  effect,  'i'he  Legislatui'cs 
of  I'eiinvslvaina.  Xew  Jersey,  and  ^faryland  unanimously  voted  hand- 
some acknowledgments,  in  the  form  of  Resolutions  communicated  to 
Congress,  the  Executive,  the  officers,  and  the  patrons  of  the  Expedition. 
In  the  Journal  of  the  Royal  Geograpliical  Society,  for  the  yeai'  18.")(;. 
and  in  the  bulletins  of  the  Societe  de  (ie()gra])hio  of  ISoS,  will  be  found 

*  At  tlie  Uiiitcil  States  Centennial  lieM  at  riiiiaiielpliia.  ISTii,  to  tlie  writer  was 
assi£;ne(l,  l)y  tlu!  iate  Admii'al  Davis,  tlie  iileasini:  duty  of  placini,'  for  the  United  States 
Xaval  ()l)servatory  an  exliiiiit  of  Aniei'iean  Ar(!tie  Exploration.  In  the  Kane  section  of 
this,  anion;;  a  niiinlier  of  other  nieiiientoos  of  the  several  KxptMJitions,  wore  i)laeed  Dr. 
Kane's  sextant,  ride.  furs,  and  kyak  :  copies  of  the  vojiiines  of  the  two  Expeditions, 
with  the  oriLjinal  sjvetehes  tlnished  by  Hamilton,  loaned  by  Mr.  It.  M.  (irinnell:  ilie 
boat  "Faith,"  repaired  at  the  cost  of  Mr.  (r.  \V.  Cliiids;  —  and  photographs  of  the  medals 
awarded,  and  of  the  vase  presented  to  Mr.  Henry  (iriiiiiell  by  the  British  Governnieiit. 
Mr.  Amos  Honsall.  one  of  the  sinvivors  of  the  .Second  Expedition,  loaned  his  medal 
received  from  the  (^neen,  and  .Mr.  ratterson,  the  handsome  marble  l)iist  of  Dr.  Kane. 
The  opportunity  of  he  exiiiliit  was  secured  i)y  the  kindness  of  tliesc?  ami  other  relatives 
of  the  exiilorer.  anion;;  whom  weri>  Mr.  U.  I*,  and  (JeiuMal  and  Mrs.  T.  I'.  Kane,  and  Mr. 
F.  J.  Dreerand  Mr.  II,  J.  Tavlor. 


i 


DECLINING    HEALTH. 


10;-) 


ilir  Awards  of  their  higliest  mtMlals.  The  medal  of  the  London  Society 
was  received  for  Kane  from  Admiral  Beecdiey,  R.N.,  by  United  States 
.Miiustor  Dallas;  that  of  the  Paris  Society  was  transmitted  tit  Dr. 
Katie's  relatives  after  his  death. 


Shortly  after  the  issue  of  Kane's  volumes  from  the  press,  Lady 
Kianklin,  in  a  renewed  eorres[)()ndence,  intimated  her  wish  that  he 
('(|ui|)  another  expedition,  of  which,  by  consent  of  the  Admiralty,  he 
was  to  take  conunand;  bnt,  by  the  advice  of  jMr.  Kennedy  and  other 
friends,  he  reluctantly  declined  the  honor,  saying  of  his  mother's  desire 
tliat  he  should  abandon  it,  "Other  j)ersuasion  I  can  resist,  but  tliis 
settles  the  (question."  In  the  weary  search  for  liealth  he  sailed  for 
Ijinlaiid,  where  he  received  much  kind  attention,  but  almost  immedi- 
ately lotnul  his  strength  ])lainly  on  the  decline.  November  IT,  he 
iitttrtied  to  vVmerica  by  way  of  Havana,  at  which  city  he  breathed 
liis  last,  February  10,  IHoT. 

Perhaps  no  citizen  acting  as  Dr.  Kane  had  acted,  chieily  in  the 
jirivaic  ('a[)aeity  of  an  explorer  and  traveller,  has  received  greater 
tril)nt(!s  of  respect  during  his  life  or  at  death.  At  Havana  his 
tctiiains,  followed   by   more   than   eight  hundred   of  the   military  and 


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100 


AMKItlCAN    KXI'LOKATIONS    IN    THK    ICK   /ONKS, 


citizens,  were  received  by  the  G()veri)t>r  of  the  city  iiixl  his  suite,  and 
escorted  to  tlieir  embarkjitiou  for  New  Orleans,  and  at  that  city,  L(»nis- 
villc,  Cincinnati,  Colunibns,  lialtimore,  and  Phihidel^yhia  i'ull  lionors 
were  rendered  by  very  hui^c  military  and  civic  i)rocessions.  In  the 
last-named  city  the  remains  lay  in  state  in  Independence  Hall  nntil 
the  linal  obsccjuies  at  the  Second  Presbyterian  Church  of  which  his 
parents  were  members,  and  in  which  he  had  been  baptized.  Amoni;' 
the  pall-bearers  were  his  life-long  friend,  Mr.  (irinnell;  Mr.  I'ea- 
body,  also  invited  to  this  duty,  unhappily  had  not  received  his  in- 
vitation. 

Dr.  Kane's  religious  belief  was  not  oidy  decidetl,  but  fre(iuently 
expressed  in  the  most  public  and  fitting  manner.  His  life  was  full  of 
coniidence  in  (iod.  Journalizing  the  incidents  of  a  day  of  severe 
trial,  he  wrote:  "I  never  lost  my  hope;  I  looked  to  the  coming  s[)ring 
as  full  of  responsibilities,  but  I  ha<l  bodily  strength  and  moral  ton(! 
enough  lo  look  through  them  to  the  end.  A  trust  based  on  experience 
as  well  as  on  promises  buoyed  me  up  at  the  worst  of  times.  Call  it 
fatalism,  as  you  ignorantly  may,  there  is  that  in  the  story  of  every 
eventful  life  whic^"  teaches  the  ineiliciency  of  human  means  and  the 
prenvnt  control  of  a  Snjireme  agency.  See  how  often  relief  has  come 
at  the  moment  of  extremity,  in  forms  strarigely  unsought,  —  almost, 
at  the  time,  unwelcome  ;  see,  still  more,  how  the  back  has  been  strength- 
ened to  its  increasing  burden,  and  the  heart  clieered  by  some  con- 
scious influence  of  an  unseen  Power." 

Setting  out  on  the  return  journey  home,  among  the  duties  estab- 
lished by  precise  regulations  were  "daily  prayers,  both  morning  and 
evening,  all  hands  gathering  round  in  a  circle  and  standing  uncov- 
ered." Of  this  exercise  Wilson,  t)ne  of  the  party,  says :  "  While  the 
rest  of  the  party  surrounded  the  sledge  with  uncovered  heads.  Dr. 
Kane  rendered  thanks  to  the  great  Ruler  of  human  destinies  for  the 
goodness  he  had  evinced  in  preserving  our  lives  while  struggling  over 
the  ice-tlesert,  exposed  to  a  blast  almost  as  withering  as  that  from  a 
furnace.  Our  Co..imander  poured  forth  ready  and  eloquent  sentences 
of  gratitude  in  that  lonely  solitude,  whose  scenery  offered  nothing  to 
cheer  the  mind  and  everything  to  depress  it." 


I   If 


I>1{.    KANi:'s    DKATH. 


107 


111  the  noar  approiich  ol"  <k'iith  lio  was  IraiKiuil  and  coiiiposrd. 
Everyday  —  "two  or  three  times  every  day  —  lie  iimst  hear  the  words 
of  lil'e  IVom  the  li])S  ot"  her  who  had  taiij^ht  his  own  t<»  lisp  his  infant 
prayer;"  and  if  Morton's  kind  ()eeu|)ati()!is  around  his  hodsiiUj  in- 
tciriipted  her,  lie  always  expressed  his  fixed  interest  in  his  mother's 
readings  by  saying,  "Go  on,  mother;  never  m.'iid  Morton." 


The  two  Grinnell  Expeditions,  which  1 .  ve  now  heeii  i)resented, 
have  shown  but  little  realization  of  the  hopes  entertaiiu'd  at  their  sail- 
ing, so  far  as  the  relief  of  Franklin  was  j)art  of  their  j)urpose.  J^ieut. 
DeHaven  would  doubtless  have  seeured  further  results  but  for  the 
strange  non-existence  of  any  of  those  documents  which  it  was  to  Ix* 
expected  tiiat  such  an  ofUcer  as  Franklin  would  have  deposited  in  some 
cairn  in  the  Arctic  regions.  If  deposited,  they  were  destroyed  by  the 
I'^skimos.  Dr.  Kane  was  cut  off  from  the  possibility  of  even  crossing 
over  to  the  east  coast  by  the  fickle  ice  and  the  intense  sufferings  of 
disease  and  want.  But  these  overruling  circumstances  detract  nothing 
from  the  worthiness  of  the  original  purposes  of  these  expediti(^ns,  or 
from  the  fidelity  of  the  officers  and  men  engaged  in  them.  Still  less 
can  they  diminish  the  honor  of  the  discoveries  claimed  and  rightfully 
vindicated  by  Kane  and  by  that  faithfid  archivist,  the  late  Col.  Peter 
Force,  of  Washington,  D.  C. ;  or  the  value  of  the  explorations  and 
surveys. 


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CIIAI'TKU     IV 


KXl'I.nlJATlONs  <>l"    LIIMI'.  .inllN    i;(  HXJKI.'S.   I.S.N. 


riii:   r..\ri,<»i;.\i"inN    of    riir. 


VINrKNNK.S        .\     1'.\|;T    <»K    TMK    INITKIi 


si'Ai'KS    KXI-KDirinN     rNI>i;i;    ro.MMANDKl;     i:iN(;(;()|.|).     -AI'IMMH'KIA- 


ri»»N    r.v  ('oN<;i;i:ss. 


(tM.IKCTS. 


si:ci;i:tai:v  kknmcdv  s  in.stim'c 


I'loN."^. 


SITKNK.S.S  or  ro.MMANIH;i:   l!lN(;(;oLI».  —  LlKl'TKN.VNT   liOlKI 


i:i;s  siT('i:i-.i>s  to    I'IIK  commank. 


LOS.^    OK    TIIK 


I'OIM'OISK.     — 


■riii;  ••  \  iNri:NNi:s     lkavhs  iionc;  konc  foi;   iiki:  aimtic  cufisk 


\i;i;iVKS    AT    I'KTItol'AFLoVSKI. 


roNDrnoN   of  tiik    town. 


i:n- 


I'FIIS     l!KIII!IN«i     STIIAFI'S. 


r.i:«»oKF  AT  c 


iSSFNAFI' 


I.KAVi;s    A    I'AKTV     FNDKi;     FIKFTFNANT 
IIAF.ns  ANI»   FFSTOMS  OF    TIIK    N.\T1VKS. 


TIIK  ••  VINCKNNKS       IN  TIIK  A!!('TIC  SKA. 


AN<'ll()i;S    IN    I.ATITFItK 


Noirni. 


SAILS    oVKi;    TIIK    TAIL    OF    IIKi;AM>    SIIOAK    ANI>    L(  »- 


<  ATKS   IIKliALI)  ISLAND. 


TAN  S|;K  No  TIIACK  <>K  I'LoVKK    ISLAND. 


AI'I'UOACIIKS    \Vi;AN(iKLL    LAND. 


i;kt('i;ns  to  st.  lanvi:knck  hay 


AND   <ILASSKNAI'I'     Kol!     LIKFTKNANT     I'.IIOOKKS     PAIJTV. —  AKUIVKS 


A!"    SAN     I'lIANClSCO    o<'To|{i;i;    i:f.   Is.Vi. 
LICATloN    ol'     rilK    FFLL    NAIIKATIXK 


SF(i(;KSTIUNS    FOn    TIIK    I  Ml  J- 


W 


IIII.I^  LicutiMiiiiit  IlartstciU'  was  iiciiriiin'  the  port  of  New 
^^t^k  Willi  ilic  I'cst'iU'd  party  of  Dr.  Kane  on  board  tlic 
"  lii'lcasc."  tin;  "  X'incemu's,"  undfr  ("oiiimaiidcr  .loliii  Hod^- 
ors.  was  rctui'iiiii^'  tVoiii  a  cruise  in  the  Arctic,  Seas  on  tlic  western 
side  ol'  the  (nntinent.  The  shi|)  came  into  San  Francisco  ()ctol)er  lo. 
\S'>').  two  diiys  alter  tiie  arri\al  of  Kane  at  the  lirooklyn  navy-yard. 

Till'  very  important  exi»h)rations  and  surNcys  ma(U'  on  this  cniise 
Wert-  in  the  prosecution  of  th(  orio-inal  phms  of  the  I'liited  States  Sur- 
veyin^'  and  I"i\j)h>rin_i;'  Expedition  which  had  li'ft  tlie  rnitt'd  States 
nnder  ( 'oniniander  ( 'adwahuhu'  JJinp;<^'old.  in  {\\v  year  IS'):}.  For  tliis 
Kx]iediiion.  ("oni^ress.  Ity  a  section  of  tiie  Xaval  A|>j)ropriation  liiH. 
hail  ajijiroprialed  tlie  snm  of  one  hnndred  ,ind  twenty-live  thousand 
dollars,  for  the  Imildiiii;  and  ])iirehase  of  snitahle  vessels,  and  for  the 
prosecntioii  of  a  sni'vev  and  reconnoissanee  for  naval  and  conmiercud 

108 


!  ! 


1 


;  ,! 


I 


i 


I, 


|ilir(»nS('! 
,lll(l     of 

Iradiiiy; 
The 
screw  si 
••,1.  Fen 
tcliiilit    . 

•  IftilL'llL'd 
(    'illlMlitll 

ilially  !■('( 
Iiiinsclf  I 
ilrslcil  <4'| 

iiiiilci'  Li 
Tlic  .< 

(ll)j('('t     ot 

Kniiu'dy, 
iia\  ij^iilio 
l)i'iii<4'  als( 
ill  tlic  iici 
lliii)  oTcai 
of  Nortli 
and    the 
The  Com 
propur,  ai 
part  of  tl 
take   all    ( 
(  xtt'iisioii 
such  rcscc 
<lo^\■ll.  nor 
liiiutcd  ill 
lo  co-opci 
tioiis,  end 
different 
metric,  an 
J'arlielia,  a 


t  i  I- 


(IIUKCTS   ol"   Tin;    KXI'KIHTION. 


I  111* 


|,iir[M»sc>t,  of  siicli  i>ai'ts  ul'  IJcliriiij,' Straits,  of  tlic  Noitli  I'acilir  Oiimii. 
.iiid  <»r  tlic  Cliiiia  Seas  as  arc  fr('(|U»'iitcMl  l»y  Ainciitiui  >\i\\<>  ami 
I  ratling  vi'ssi'ls. 

'I'lie  Kxprditioii  consisted  of  tlic  sloo|M)f-\var  "  ViniM-mu's,'"  ilif 
sciL'W  stfainiT  ••.lolin  llancocU,"  tlic  \nh^  ••  I'or[M>lsc,""  the  sclioonci' 
••J.  Kcnlnioic  ( 'ooptT,"  and  tlic  >ture-sliiii  ••.!.  I*.  Kennedy."  laeii- 
iciiaiit  .Iidin  l{od<^eis,  then  on  dnty  nnder  the  Coast  Survey,  N\as 
ilctaehed  and  ordci'ccl  to  coinniand  the  ••  Hancock,*"  at  the  re(|Uest  of 
(  oiiimander  l{in<^<4dld,  who  accepted  his  (»ffer  as  a  volnntecr.  and  coi- 
ilJMJIy  I'cconinicnded  him  to  the  Navy  Department.  'I'he  ( 'nmmandii' 
liimsclf  had,  from  the  l)c;;inninj;' of  the  proposition  for  the  siiivey,  m;in- 
ih'stcd  y;roat  interest  in  it,  having-  lieen  on  duty  with  the  llxpcdiiion 
under  Lieutenant  Wilkes  in  the  South  Seas,  in  the  years  lM:')S-l,S4:i. 

The  stjuadron  sailc(l  iVom  Norfolk  .June  11.  IH,'):!.  Tlie  primnrv 
ohject  of  the  lv\iic(lition,  laid  down  in  the  instructions  ol'  Secretary 
Kennedy,  was  tlu'  promotion  of  the  <;reat  interests  of  conuiu'rcc  and 
navigation,  as  referred  to  in  the  Act  of  Congress;  special  attention 
heing  also  diroctetl  to  the  increasing  im[tortance  of  the  whale  lishiiics 
in  the  ncighlxnhood  of  Mehring  Strait.  The  thorough  exaniiiiatinn  of 
that  great  outlet  was  ex[)ected,  as  well  as  that  of  the  adjacent  coasts 
of  North  Ami'iica  and  Asia,  im-luding  the  Scah  of  liehring  and  Anadir. 
iUid  the  Aleutian  archipelago,  with  the  east  coast  of  Kamtschatka. 
The  Commander  was  authorized  to  go  as  far  north  as  he  shoidd  think 
|)roj)'jr.  and  devote  as  much  time  to  tlie  complete  i)erformance  of  any 
part  of  the  work  as  should  he  necessary;  hut  was  instructed  also  to 
take  all  occasions  nt»t  inc(uu])atihl<'  with  these  high  ohjects,  foi-  the 
extension  of  the  houndaries  of  scientitic  research.  For  the  conduct  of 
such  research,  and  for  experiments,  no  special  instructions  were  laid 
down.  iKU'  were  the  Naval  Oflicers  or  the  Scientists  of  the  Expt'dition 
liniitc(l  in  these  to  their  respective  special  spheres.  All  were  expccteil 
to  co-operate  harmoniously  in  tlie  prosecution  of  j)hysical  investiga- 
tions, end)racing  those  of  temperature  at  different  elevations  and  in 
different  latitudes,  with  specific  references  to  barometrical,  hygro- 
inctric,  ami  mometric  observations,  and  those  of  the  aurora  borealis.  of 
t'iuhclia,  and  the  miraw.      Hminent  naturalists  were  to  be   attached   to 


i  ' 
Pl 

liii 


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t'  ;'' 


iiiiii 


j'i 


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il[' 


s  ,> 


if 


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I:      ! 


110 


AMKHICAN    KXl'LOItATIONS    IX    THP:    ICK    ZONP^S. 


the  P^xpeditiuii,  uiid  suggestions  offered  by  the  chief  Philosophical, 
Scientific,  and  Litciaiy  institutions  of  the  United  States  made  part  of 
tlie  instructions.  Mr.  William  Stimpson  was  appointed  to  be  the  Natu- 
ralist of  the  Expedition;  Mr.  E.  W.  Kern,  its  artist;  Mr.  C.  Wright, 
botanist ;  Mr.  W.D.  Stuart,  secretary  and  draughtsman  ;  and  Mr.  Anton 
Schoenbt)rn,  instrument-maker. 

In  regard  to  this  Expedition,  as  well  as  Dr.  Kane's,  that  under  the 
connnand  of  Connnodore  Perry,  and  the  expedition  to  the  Paraguay 
waters  by  tlie  "Water-witch,"  under  Lieutenant  Page,  a  distinguished 
Naval  Otlicer,  is  quoted,  in  Tuckerman's  life  of  Secretary  Kennedy,  as 
saying  that  all  were  either  the  inception  of  the  Secretary  himself,  or  as 
liaving  received  from  him  such  intelligent  recognition  and  support  as 
to  have  made  its  impress  upon  not  only  our  own  history,  but  on  that  of 
other  nations.  In  Mr.  Kennedy's  Annual  Report  of  December  2, 1852, 
h(»  had  expressed  his  interest  in  the  relations  of  the  Navy  to  such  objects, 
by  saying  tliat  "the  constant  employment  of  ships  and  men  in  the  pro- 
motion of  valuable  public  interests,  whether  in  defence  of  the  honor 
of  our  Hag  ()!•  the  exploration  of  the  field  of  discovery  and  the  opening 
of  "ew  channels  of  trade,  or  in  the  enlarging  of  the  boundaries  of 
science,  will  be  recognized  both  by  the  Government  and  the  people  as 
the  true  and  proper  vocation  of  the  Navy;  and  as  the  means  best  cal- 
cuhited  to  nurse  and  strengthen  the  gallant  devotion  to  duty  which  is 
so  essential  to  the  character  of  accomplished  officers  and  so  iridispen- 
sable  to  the  effectiveness  of  the  Naval  Organization."  From  the  outset 
of  his  administration  of  the  Xavy  Department  his  journal  indicates  the 
greatest  activity,  and  he  noces  with  obvious  zest  his  arrangement  for 
these  expeditions.  The  outfit,  manning,  and  instructions  were  both 
liberal  and  sagacious,  and  their  respective  Commanders  warmly  ac- 
knowledged their  obligations  for  his  scientific  zeal  as  well  as  official 
courtesy. 

Commander  Ringgold  was  advised  that  the  resident  Russian  Min- 
ister had  tendered  the  assurance  of  an  interest  felt  by  his  Government 
in  the  Expedition,  which  might  expect  assistance,  hospitalities,  and 
refreshments  whenever  needed  within  the  Russian  domain.  An  ex- 
ploring  s(iuadron   from   that   Government  was  announced  as  about 


KOUTE   OF   THE   SQUADRON. 


Ill 


.-tiiiii.n"  out.  Uussiaii  Charts  of  regions  to  be  visited  would  be  eour- 
ic'oiisly  ottered. 

The  ships  iiained  above  proceeded  to  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope,  via 
]\hi(U'ira  and  the  Cape  de  Verde  Isles.  In  the  early  part  of  November 
ihe  ••Hancock,"  the  "Feninioi-e  Cooper,"  and  the  store-ship  sailed  for 
IJatiivia,  and  the  " Vincenncs"  and  "Porpoise"  to  Hong  Kong,  via 
Australia.  After  a  survey  of  Gaspar  Straits  and  other  localities,  in 
.liilv  the  squadron  reunited  at  Hong  Kong. 

In  the  month  of  August  of  the  following  year,  1854,  a  reorganiza- 
ii(Mi  of  the  Expedition  became  necessary,  the  failing  health  of  Com- 
iii(i(l(ir(^  Ringgold  requiring  his  return  to  the  United  States;  the 
(■(iiiunand  devolved  upon  Lieutenant  John  Rodgers,  the  next  in  rank. 
After  his  transfer  to  the  connnand  of  the  "  Vincennes,"  the  complement 
of  his  otticers  for  the  cruise  consisted  of  Acting  Lieutenant  John  M. 
lirooke.  Astronomer ;  Acting  Lieutenants  Francis  A.  Roe,  Thomas 
Scott  Fillebrown,  John  H.  Russell,  and  Fleet  Surgeon  William  Grier, 
Assistant  Surgeon  W.  L.  Nichol,  and  Purser  W.  R.  Roggs;  with  the 
Corjis  of  Scientists  already  named.* 

ll.irly  in  Sei)tendier  of  the  same  year,  the  "Vincennes,"  Commander 
Rodgers;  the  steamer  "John  Hancock,"  Acting  Lieutenant  Henry  K. 

*  •' ViNCENXEs' "  Officeks  Xaval  Kecoki).  —  Lieutenant  ooinnianiling,  .John 
lloiliii'is,  warranted  midshipman,  April  18.  1S28;  promoted  to  be  passed  midshipinan, 
.Iiiiif  14.  1S.>4:  to  be  lieutenant,  .Ian.  28.  1840;  to  bo  eommander,  Sept.  14,  1855;  to  be 
(•:i|ii;tin.  .Inly  10.  18(52;  to  be  eonnnodore,  .June  IT,  1803:  to  be  rear  admiral,  Dec.  31,  1809; 
cliiil  at  Wasliington,  .May  5,  1882.  Acting  lieutenant,  John  ^I.  Brooke,  warranted  mid- 
sliil>inaii.  March  ."5,  184f:  passed  midshipman.  Aug.  10.  1^47;  master  (in  the  line  of 
liroiiioiiun),  Sept.  14.  IS,");  lieutenant,  Sept.  1."),  1855;  tendered  resignation  and  left 
till' M'l  vice.  April  20.  1801.  Acting  lieutenant,  F.  A.  Roe.  warranted  midshipman,  Oct. 
I'.i.  !sH;  passed  midshipman.  Aug.  10,  1847;  lieutenant.  Sept.  14.  1855;  lieuteiuint  com- 
iimniicr.  .July  10,  1802;  conniiander.  .July  25.  1800;  captain,  April  1,  1872;  eonnnodore, 
Nti\.  JO.  isso.  Acting  lieutenant.  .John  11.  Kussell,  warranted  midshipman,  Sept.  10, 
|s^l:  passed  midshipman,  Aug.  10.  1847;  master,  Sept.  14,  1855;  lieutenant,  Sept.  15, 
is.").");  lieutenant  connuander.  .Inly  10,  1802;  commander,  Jan.  28,  1807;  captain,  Feb. 
iJ,  1S74.  Acting  lieutenant.  Thomas  Scott  Fillebrown.  warranted  midshipman,  Oct.  19. 
l"!4i:  passed  midshipinan,  Aug.  10.  1847;  master,  Sept.  14,  1855;  lieutenant.  Sept,  15,  18.55; 
liiMitcnaut  connnander,  July  10,  1802;  commander,  July  25,  1800;  captain,  Jan.  0,  1874; 
rnniiuodore.  May  7,  1883.  Wm.  (Jrier,  assistant  surgeon,  March  7,  1838;  passed  assistant 
Mir^'con,  April  14,  1852:  nn^dical  director.  March  3,  1871;  siu-geon-general,  Jan.  30,  1877; 
ivtiied,  Oct.  5,  1878;  W.  L.  Nichol.  asst.  sin-g.,  Jiuie  2S,  18.52;  resigned  Xov.  21,  1855; 
W.  1>.  Hoggs,  purser,  Xov.  30,  1852;  pay  director,  March  3,  1871. 


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l!i 


ft 


■|      J 


i     : 


\;  i 


I     !i 


112 


AMKKK'AX    KXl'J.OUATIONS    IN    TIIK    UJK   ZONES. 


Stevens;  tlio  "Porpoise,"  Acting  Lieutenant  William  K.  Bridge: 
and  the  "  Feniniore  Cooper,"  Acting  l^ieutenant  William  (Jiltson, 
sailed  from  Hong  Kong.  Tlie  '•'Join;  Hancock '"  and  "  Feniniore 
Cooper,"  sailing  September  !>,  were  sent  t(»  the  Peiiio  Itivcr  in  con 
nection  with  tlie  visit  and  negotiations  of  United  States  Minister 
Mcliane.  Wi)ile  so  engaged,  important  surveys  were  made  in  that 
region.  When  their  presence  was  no  h)nger  rcMpiiri'd  by  Minister 
M{;Lane,   lliey  surveyed  tlie  western  coast  of  Formosa. 

'Die  "  \'incennes  *'  and  "  Por[)oise  "  saiU'd  from  Hong  Kong  on  tlie 
12th  oi'  Septemlier  for  a  survey  of  the  Bimin  Isles,  Ladrone,  I^oo-chon. 
and  the  islands  west  and  south  of  Jai)an,  and  returned  to  Hong  Kong  in 
February,  IHo"),  with  the  exception  of  the  brig  "  I'orpoise,"  which  parted 
company  from  tlm  "Vincennes"  September  21,  lMr)4,  in  mid-channel, 
between  Formosa  and  (^hina  to  the  northward  and  XNCstward  of  the 
l^esi-adores.  The  brig,  with  I'Veiy  soul  on  board,  jx'rished.  She  wiis 
to  have  met  the  '•Vineennes"  at  the  IJoiiin  Isles,  and  Conimandi  i 
liodgers  waited  for  her  there  beyond  tlu;  ai»[)ointed  time.  As  their 
were  grounds  for  apprehension  of  her  safety,  since  both  the  "X'iii- 
cennes"  and  the  "  Poijioise"  had  struggled  together  with  the  storm  of 
the  date  named,  Commander  Kodgers  went  in  search  of  her,  visiting 
the  I  no-choo  and  other  islands  and  places  where  it  was  thought  pos- 
sible she  nnght  have  been  driven  by  the  gale;  and  afterward  the 
"Hancock"  and  "Cooper"  thoroughly  explored  the  island  of  I'or- 
mosa.,  but    without  the  slightest  intelligence  of  the  ill-fated   brig. 

Heferring  to  her  loss  in  his  Report  of  December  2, 18')4,  the  Setnetiiiy 
of  the  Navy  said  of  her  ol'tii'crs:  "They  were  all  young,  energetic,  and 
tidl  of  professional  ])ride.  The  service  in  this  calamity  has  met  with  ;i 
severe  loss."'  Tlie  otlicers  referred  to  were  Acting  Lieuteniints  W.  K. 
Bridge,  Wm.  Heiley,  S.  J.  Bliss,  and  W.  W.  Van  Wyck  ;  Midshipmnu 
G.  F.  Baber;  Assistant  Surgeon  J.  II.  Stuart,  and  Cajitain's  clerk. 
S.  .1.  Potts,  Jr. 

In  Lieutenant  Habersliam's  volume,  entitled  "My  Last  Cruise." 
Lieutenant  Brook(>  will  be  found  to  have  eonuiuuncated  this  account 
of  the  sad  disaster  :  — 

"The  two  vessels  in  com])any  were  struggling  Avith  the  noitliciist 


I/)SS   OF   THE    "'  I'OUl'OISK 


1115 


iiKitisnons  in  tlio  Cliiiia  Sea.  Occasionally  the  vooriii<;f  wind  and 
cliauijjing  barometer  indicated  the  passage  of  a  cyck)ne.  The  iiuMcasiii};' 
I'uiv  of  the  wind,  and  these  indications  governed  the  conrscs  ol'  the 
vessels.  At  lengtli  they  i'onntl  themselves  hctween  Formosa  and  the 
iiiiiiii,  and  dnring  the  night  of  the  'iOlh  of  Sei)teml)er  tlicy  hehl  on 
mar  mid-channel;  but  in  the  morning  the  '  V'ineenni's.'  then  lo  lee- 
ward, bore  up  lor  the  IJashee  passage.  It  w;-s  presumed  that  the 
>  j'(»r{)oise'  would  follow. 

"While  the  'V'ineennes"  was  thus  running  before  the  wind,  towing 
hawsers  astern  to  break  the  sea  shonld  she  cross  the  banks,  the  •  l*or- 
])oisc '  was  enveloped  in  a  driving  mist  and  lost  to  sight.  This  separa- 
tion was  regarded  as  of  little  moment,  for  the  brig  was  well-manned, 
and  her  ol'licers,  individually  and  collectively,  were  men  of  the  lirst 
aliilily  and  courage:    you  knew  them  all. 

"ll  is  generallv  understood  by  seamen  that  sound  vessels  are  safer 
aliiue  than  in  company;  for  the  whole  attention  of  the  conunancUn-  may 
he  devoted  to  the  care  of  his  vessel  without  thos*.  modilications  of  plan 
rciliiired  when  acting  in  concert.  In  those  seas  the  obscurity  of  the 
iiiglit  rendered  it  dillicult  to  distinguish  light,  and  the  sound  of  cannon 
Would  b(!  lost  in  the  roaring  of  the  w'nd  and  waves.  Thend'ore  neither 
siii|)rise  nor  special  anxiety  was  experienced  on  that  occasion. 

"The  '  N'incennes,' having  passed  the  liashee  passage,  enteicni  the 
Pacific,  anil,  until  h(;r  arrival  at  the  Bonin  Islands,  ex])erienced  line 
weather.  The  arrival  of  tin-  •  I'orpoise  '  —  a  duller  sailor  —  was 
daily  ('X[)ected.  Meanwhih'  there  came  on,  at  v</////^  one  ol"  those  char- 
aclcristic  storms  of  the  Bonin, — a  hurricane!  or  cyclone.  It  came 
mdu'ralded,  exce[)t  by  the  slightly  im-reased  sound  of  the  surf  on  the 
outer  rocks;  and  it  was  not  until  the  litful  gusts  that,  by  their  peculiar 
tone  are  recognized  by  those  Avho  have  heard  it.  swept  from  the  hills 
over  the  ship,  that  we  were  aware  of  its  ])roximity.  Nearly  shut  in  by 
niountains.  the  'Vincennes,'  with  lower  yards  and  topm.ists  stru(d<. 
and  four  am-hors  down,  trend)led  from  the  vibration  of  the  masts  and 
rigging.  There  was  no  shrill  whistling  of  the  wind,  l)ut  a  deep  and 
Imllow  roar;  the  crests  of  the  waves  were  caught  uj)  and  whitened  the 
air  with  drift.     The  falling  barometer  and  the  veering  wind  [)resente(.l 


If 


,             .     ■ 

■  '  y  ■  '<}■■ 

;    1      i ) ' 

, 

■ 

'■ 

'!| 


i 


i 


ii ' 


'!!; 


I  4 


114 


AMKHKAN    KXri,«»l{ATH»NH    IN    TIIK    WV.   /ONKH. 


ill!    lli(>    in<liciilions    of   ii    rvfloiic    swt'cpini;'    ltt\viir<ls    \\\v    ikmIIi.       Il 

WHS     IVIMillklMl     l)\     lIlC     JlUh'St      SCilllMMI     of     (lie     '  N'ilKM'lllH's'     that'     slic, 

p)o(l   sca-ltoiil    as  hIic   wan,  would   .scarit'ly    have   Htiivived    tin?    Imni 
caiic  at   sea. 


Ill  the  foiiliiMMl  ( 'liiiia  Sea, 


lu 


aillif  ri'scatlorcM.  Ilic  wind  Idowiii"' 


toward  l!u>  coast  orciiiiia.  it  \\onld  lie  siiij^idar,  indeed,  if  ii(t  vestij^c 
of  a  ship  WHM'Ked  or  hist  ther(>  shouhl  he  lonnd.  It  is  not  pr(d>altl(' 
that  the  'Porpoise'  was  h)st  until  she  reached  th(>  vicinity  of  the 
llonins.  "She  hore  the  character  of  a  sj^ood  seadioat,  hut  was  short 
and  deep  in  the  waist.  thiM'el'ore  liahh'  to  hroach  to,  or  to  he  hroiinlil 
In   the  h'c  to  till  and  I'oiiMchM-." 

In  March,  ISo.').  the  i-ApCihtion  ayain  hd't   lloni;'  Koii^-  lor  snrveviii!; 


loses. 


Alter  siirvcviim"  t  li(>  west  coast  of  Forniosa,  the  "■  X'incenn 


es. 


l^nri 

th(>  "  Cooper,"' and  \\\c  ''.lohn  Hanco(d<  "  jtrocceded  to  Loo-choo,  where 
the  three  vessels  t<\i;'etlier  bcuan  tli(>  snrv(\\s  l)(>tween  that  island  and 
thipan.  rassiiiy^  (ni  to  Sinioda,  .Ia]tan,  the  surveys  were  continued;  the 
"  (\>o]hm"  cNploriui;"  thewi^sleru  coast  o\'  Ni|)liou,  and  the  "  \'inceuiies" 
and  the  "llain'ock"  that  j-.artof  the  sea  lyiny;  in  tln>  jiatli  of  vessels  near 
the  cast  coast.  whih>  tlu>  laiimdi  of  the  "N'incennes"  under  liieiilcnaiil 
Hioid<(>  niatlc  a  runninu"  survey  of  the  (>oast  fnuu  Siinodii  to  llakodadi. 
From  llakodadi  the  "llancmk"  jiroccMMJed  to  survey  the  Ochotsk  Sea. 
and    the    "■  (\n>p(>r "    to   explore   the    luutheru    .)apan(>se   and    l"'ox    and 


Alcniian    is 


tl 


UMU't^     \\CV 


Avct 


ri 


le 


mcenues 


ailoil    for  Kamchatka   to  In 


'111  1 1 


ic   cruis(^ 


THK    AlK'TH'    I'Ari.OUArioN. 


(>f  the  most  important  and  permaiuMitly  valiiahh>  work  of  the 
ntutluM'u  cruise  bv  the  "  Vincennes,"  it  remains  as  vet  a  matter  of 
universal  regret  that  no  oHicial  or  other  narrative  lias  been  publislnMl. 
In  the  rejiort  o(  Secretary  Toueey  of  Deeember,  1857,  lie  said  :  "The 
work  of  }iublishiu>jj  the  survey  of  the  late  Ex|)edition  to  the  North 
Paeilic  and  Hehrir-:^  Straits  under  Commander  Hodo^ers,  is  rapidly  ad- 
vaneiuLT :  engagements  have  been  made  with  eminent  professors  in 
the  variinis  branches  of  natural  histtuy,  describing  the  nuist  important 
specimens  l>rought   luune  by  the   Kxpedititui.     A  portion  of  the  liycbd- 


iil 


MHItVKVH    MY    TIIK    "  VI  NCKN  N  KM. 


llJ 


.ipIlK 


;il  work  is  in  (lir  liiiiidH  (»!'  IIk;  iMi^iiiver,  tlui  rest  is  in  a  hIuIc  of 


,1  uiirdncss. 


riir  Iiv<lronriii|)liic  work  licrc  mIIikIciI  to  is,  iKtwcvcr,  iill  lliat  lias 
;,|,r„Mr('(l.  Tlic  cliiiils  issHdd  liy  llic  l'nil(M|  Stiilcs  I  ly<lio^iii|iliic.  OIVkmi, 
\\'.isliiii^lon,  iirc  incnioriiilM  worlliy  ol'  llic  ciiiisr,  of  llic  Niivy,  iind  of  \\w 
i.riiccrs  who  rxccnlcd  llic  snrvcys.  OI'llic  IJod^n-iH  cliinl,  {\\r  (rack  of 
llii  "  \'in(  rniirs."  iind  Iter  roiitci  lliroiioli  I'^'liriii^  Scfi,  and  tlu!  ArvA'n: 
Oc    iin  (  No.  «!H  ol' (lu!  cliiirlM  of  Ww  llydro^niij'liic,  OIVk!*- ),  —in  liis  (riW- 


IIM' 


to  (lie  liilo  Admiral  Hodf^^crs,  Secretary  l'\»l^er  sit; 


lie  I 


ore  sit: 


lit- 


III' 


WrJinu'ell  Liind,  lie  wiis  niel  l>y  Hie  ice  Wiirriers,  Jind  willi  wis(!  prn- 
,|,  nee  I  Mined  liis  |»i'(»w  lioniewiird,  lieaiiii^f  liis  Wiiy  liiick  iit^fiiinsl,  liead- 
wiiids.  mid  reiieliiiiL,'  (lieSliiiits  in  lime  lo  j^n-t  tliron^di,  Itiil  niiirkint; 
liis  /iu/.ii^'  t'onrse  l»y  !i  line  of  Koiindinj^s  on  Ilii!  (^luirl  of  '  IJeliiin;^ 
Sell  iiiid  (lie  Arctic  Occiui,'  jmblislied  l)y  tlie  (Jovernment.  over  liis 
niinic,  wliieli  is  still  tlic  best  iuitliorlty  to  those  who  follow  after  him, 
ami  to  which  mncli  liiis  licen  added  by  those  who  liiive  imitattid  his 
(■aiclMl  metiiods,  hut  from  which  nothing  has  hcen  taken."  ["In 
Mciiinriiim,"  Treiisury  Document,  No.  277.] 

Tlie  chiirts  (d'  the  list  of  the  I lydrof^raphic  OlVice  are  : — 

No.  ;")!,  ""  IJiiy  of  Avatidia,  Kamtchatkas  and  approaclKss ;  Nos.  H  and 
;")."i.  ''  Aleutian  Arehi|ieliigo,"  — in  two  sheets;  No.  r>7,  "  TIk;  Straits  of 
Sciiiiiiviiie  in  Hcdirin^  Scji ; "   N(».  (50,  "St.  L;iwreiicc  l>ay." 

No.  (>H  (as  named  al»ove)i  Hehriii}^  Sea  and  the  Aictic  Ocean. 

Tills  niimher,  as  reissued  by  (Commodore  .!.('.  I'.  I)(d\ral't,  llydi'o- 
'jrajilicr  of  tlie  liureau  of  Navij^ation,  ^ives  an  ext(nision  of  the  Nitrthern 
Asiatic  coast,  westward  to  Ion.  IT);")"  K. ;  also  the  iraciks  and  the  hij^diest 
|i(iiiit  reached  by  the  "  Hodt;'ers,"  under  liiciilenant  K.  M.  Berry,  Sept.  IH, 
ISSl,  lat.  1')"  44'  iN.  This  position  and  that  of  the  iinfrutunatc!  ''.Joan- 
iicfte"  when  crnsluMl  by  the  i(^e,  June  1'»,  1HH1,  with  other  indications  of 
recent  Arctic  Kxplorations,  will  be  found  laid  down  on  the  (;ircum[)olar 


in 


lip  (i»ock<^t  of  this  volume). 


It  has  not  been  found  pra(!ticabl(!  to  furnish  a  reply  to  the  many 
iii(|uirics  which  have  been  made  as  to  tlie  deferring  of  tlie  publication 
cf  the  full  narrative  of  this  Exploring  Expedition  of  1853-55,  or  of  its 


':! 


' 


1 1 


4      ii 


■  :U 


lU) 


AMKItirAN    KXI'LDItATIONS    IN    TlIK    ICE   ZONES. 


Arctic  cruise;  a  lair  iiil'crcnec  may  Ix'  drawn  from  the  history  of  lik( 
cases,   tliat    the   iioii-appearanec  of   the   text    lias   been    caused    by   tin 
want  of  a  suflicient   apiiropriation   for  its  issue  by  th(!   Navy   Depart- 
ment.    The  brief  notie(>s  whicli  I'ollow  would  have  been  most  giadl\ 
extended  or  have  <;iven  i)laee  to  a   fuller  history,  if  such  liad  uj){)eare(l. 
They  are,  however,  derived   from    the  letters  of  the  Commander,  tin 
Ship's  loo',  and  the  lieports  of  the   Secretaries  of  the  Navy,  with  soim 
notes   of  the    eami>iny   on   shitre    at   (ilassenapp,  by  the    Jiarty   under 
Lieutenant   IJrooke,  tlrawn   from  his  courteously  loaned  memorandum 
books. 

THE    NOI.'THEIiN   CRUISE. 

July  <S,  ISo").  —  The  "  N'ineennes"  arrived  at  Avatcha  Hay,  Siberia, 
in  whicli  lies  the  Port  of  l*etro})auIovski.  The  bay  was  found  to  be  as 
described  in  the  sailint>-  directions,  laroe  and  alfordini''  •iood  anchorairc. 
'I'he  village  presented  a  sino'ular  ap})earance,  its  houses,  about  one  hun- 
dred in  nundier,  bein^-  built  of  logs  hewn  S({uare,  many  of  them  luiviii;^ 
red  roofs:  tlu'  better  class  covered  with  sheet-iron,  the  red  lead  beini^- 
probably  designed  as  a  protection  from  rust.  The  village  is  situated  at 
tiie  head  of  a  land-locked  basin,  formed  by  a  high  ridg(;  of  land  curving 
out  and  rounding  from  the  main,  and  then  running  parallel  to  it.  A 
low  sand-spit  forms  a  breakwater  across  the  entrance,  (^n  i.Le  shoulder 
of  the  si)it  and  on  the  promontory  of  the  ridge,  were  seen  tlie  ruins  nl 
batteries  from  which  the  guns  had  been  removed. 

A  boat  came  off  with  a  Mr.  Case,  an  Americaii  residen't,  who  reported 
the  town  deserted,  and  that  the  public  property  had  been  destroyed, 
and  that  of  private  persons  wantonly  injured  by  the  French.  On  a 
visit  by  the  ofiicers  of  the  "  Vincennes,"  the  burned  houses  presented 
a  mournful  aj)pearance,  and  the  deserted  mansion  of  the  (Tovernm 
scarcely  less  of  discomfort.  This  dwelling  also  was  of  logs  caulked 
with  oakum,  and  lined  with  painted  canvas  ;  its  heating  had  been  from 
Russian  stoves,  which,  as  massive  squares  of  brick-work,  maintained  a 
constant  temi)erature.  A  stream  of  clear  \vater,  supplied  from  the 
melting  snow  of  the  hills,  formed  a  small  cascade  in  the  garden,  wheic 
gooseberr}'  bushes  were  just  shedding  their  blossoms,  and  the  straw- 


SKAIM'II    KOIi    A    \V1IALKI{ 


117 


l„vrv  beds  woro  verdanl.     In   the  streets  niaiiv  (l<)<>s  were  WiinderiMir 


•jtlioiit  masters,  t(t  die  >){'  starvation. 


l-ri(Mlt 


enant  Hrooke  entered    in 


lijs  iKiti's  (»!'  the  visit,  that  the  hhu-k  enihers  »i|'  the  hurned   liuii 


ses  were 


;i  so 


hiT 


uvenir  of  the  J''.ni;lish  and  the  l-'reneh  eonlHet,  the  niort'  niournt'ul 
ause  the    severity  of  the   climate  and  the  eohl  asj)eet   ol"  X\\v  moiin- 


,iin^ 


wonld  iiu'lim;  one  to  tliinh  that    into  siieli  a  eonntry  num  shouhl 
incly  carry  the  ernelties  of  war.     ••  iJiii  the  Freiu-h  piohahly  reniem- 


hcrc< 


I  iMoseow."     In  tiie  ealm  ol"  tlu'  eviMiiny;  the  sceneiv 


was  very  line, 


(\sentin_L|;  from  one  ])oint  tlie  wide  waters  of  the  hay.  the  chisi',  cahn 
rhor,  the  distant  and  majestie  mountains,  and  the  iinht-iuied  ve^-i'ta- 
iiK  waving'  with  every  ze|)hyr.     \'ioU'ts  and  heartsease  were  naijicred 


'I'  liiiiiie 


li,nii('< 


letters.     Durinn'  tlie  al)sen( 


c  of  llie  olhi'crs  the  seine  had  been 


h  l)rin,<>in,y'  up  one  hund.cd  and  I'orty  salmon  with   tront:  a  kin<;'- 
.>;ihiioii  \vei_nhe(l  .sixty  j)onnds:  tlie  lin'htcst.  ten  pounds. 

TIk^  s(;ho(UU!r  "■  Fenimoi'c  ( 'oojx'r  ""  came  in  I'rcnn  a  cruise  to  Aetku, 
one  of  the  Aleutian  Islands,  which  she  had  visited  hy  ordeis  of  Coni- 
iii;mder  I{od!4'ers,  under  instructions  from  tlie  Navy  I)c|iartment,  to 
iii;ike  in(]uiries  for  the  fate  of  the  ollicers  and  crew  of  the  wlude-shi]) 
••  Moiioiii^ahela,"'  which  was  lost  in  the  autunui  of  IS,"):),  jn  iittem[)tint>' 
111  make   iier  seventy-second  |iassae'( 


in  Ion.  ITii  west.     Diliucut  search 


u;is  made,  and  tlie  Islands  of  Sc^oiim  and  .Vmo^hta.  which  lie  on  each 
side  ol"  the  passage,  v.'ere  tho'roiiehly  examined.  .\t  Actka  were  found 
several  water-casks.  sup])osed  to  have  h'dono'ed  t(»  the  missing'  vessel, 
liiit    no  ti<linns  of  the  oflicers  and  crew,  all  of  whom  are  su[)])osed  to 


ha 


ve  p(M'ished  with  the  ship. 

A  visit  to  the  "■  Viucennes  "  was  made  by  Captain  ^lartineff.  of  the 

IkUssiau  Army,  who,  with  another  oflieer.  had   been   sent    out    l)y   the 

Russian  (Jovernment  to  nuH't  Commander  l{iu<j;e()ld  and  brini;'  liussian 

charts.     On  his  journey  from  St.  Pcjtersburi'',  made  in  se\cnty  days  by 

iiiivso  and  doo-,  he  had  at  one  tinu'  been  dtdayed  six  days  in  the  snow 

liout  lire.      Ilis  dogs  had  been"  driven  by  a  slightly  curved  stick. 

On  the  SUh,  an  American  ship  with  a  cargo  consignc'd  to  this  port, 

riived  from   New  York  ria  \'al])araiso.     On  the  loth,  the  Comuuinder 

•f  the   '' Viucennes"  sent  as  a  ])resent  to  the  (iovernor  of  Siberia  a 

il\er-uu)un.cd  Siiarne   Kille  with  amnuuiiticui :  the  '•  Vincenucs  "  ran 


\\  I 


•^ 

1 

f 

t 
t ,  ■ 

■ 

i  t^ 

i 

■'r  -'1' 

I 


I        i 


I    il 


I      ■■'   : 


118 


AMEHirAN  EXl'LOHATIONH    IN  THE   ICE  ZONES. 


((H    I 


out  to  sen,  taking  as  an  interpreter  an  old  Cossack  sixty-seven  years 
of  age.  The  "  Cooper"  engaged  for  the  same  olliee,  for  a  n(!W  visit  to 
tlie  Aleutian  group,  a  Mr.  Fletcher,  for  twenty  years  an  inliabitant  ol 
Kamchatka. 

F^ieutenant  Brooke  found  his  first  watch  on  deck  in  hit.  52°  f)!)'  N.. 
made  very  jileasant  by  the  beauteous  phenomena  witnessed,  'i'lir 
calm  and  complete  stillness  was  broken  only  bj'  the  flapping  of  a  sail  m 
the  occasional  breathing  of  a  seal.  "The  sky,  near  the  lir>riz(»n,  \\ii> 
orange  and  violet,  the  distant  land  brraking  into  the  arch  of  cnlois  was 
dark,  and  in  bold  relief  tinged  with  purple.  As  the  sun  came  u|),  all 
changed  to  crimson  and  gold,  and  the  light  clouds  aloft,  even  in  the 
west,  were  warm  and  beautiful.  To  the  west  rose  the  gray  land  (tvcr- 
towcred  l)y  the  snow-cai)ped  [)eaks,  cold  as  could  be.  The  waterfowl 
were  reflected  in  the  mirror-like  sea,  and  their  images  were  seen  at 
every  undulation  of  the  smooth  waves;  hardly  perceptible,  long,  wav- 
ing lines  diverged  on  either  side  as  they  advanced  toward  the  shi|). 
Seaward,  a  thin,  low  haze  obscured  the  sky  and  sea,  which  faded  like  a 
mirror  beneath  the  cloud." 

July  10.  —  The  ''Vincennes"  encountered  thick  weather,  but  with- 
out rain  ;  at  noon,  when  it  lightened  up,  Behring  Island  was  seen 
bearing  S.  E.  The  Commander  regretted  that  he  was  unable  to  wait 
for  clear  weather  to  locate  the  island,  which  is  found  differently  placed 
on  the  Russian  and  English  charts.  From  this  date  up  to  the  close  of 
the  Uionth,  adverse  easterly  winds  prevailed,  with  the  exceptional  calms 
accompanied  by  the  usual  fogs.  On  the  28th,  when  Lieutenant  Brooke 
sounded  for  deep-sea  dredging,*  Saxton's  thermometer  was  l>ent  to  the 
lead,  and  sent  down,  all  quills  included  ;  at  nine  hundred  fathoms  only, 
it  reached  bottom,  the  shot  detached  itself,  and  both  the  quills  and  bore 

*  In  Sir  C.  W.  Thomson's  "  Deptlis  of  the  Sea,"  page  211,  will  bo,  found  the  fol- 
lowing:— 

"  About  the  year  1854.  Passed-Midshipnian  J.  M.  Brooke,  United  States  Navy,  \s\w 
was  at  tlie  time  doing  duty  at  the  Observatory,  proposed  a  contrivance  by  wliich  the  shot 
might  be  detached  as  soon  as  it  reached  the  bottom,  and  specimens  brought  up  in  its  stead. 
The  result  of  the  suggestion  was  Brooke's  '  Deep-Sea  Sounding  Apparatus,'  of  which  all 
the  more  recent  contrivances  have  been  to  a  great  extent  modifications  and  iniprovoments, 
retaining  its  fundamental  principle,  the  detaching  of  the  weight."  The  last  of  these 
remarks  will  be  found  confirmed  by  the  Reports  of  the  Naval  Officers  engaged  in  the  work 


THE   "VIN'CENNES       IN    HEHI{IN(i   STUAITS. 


119 


of  the  rod  were  hauled  up  full,  ii  p^reeiiish  sediinent  revealinj^  iiiidrr 
the  microscope,  living  iininuils;  as  on  a  previmis  day,  when  the  sound- 
iii<i-  had  been  one  thousand  seven  hundred  lathonis,  the  infusoria  were 
pi  lived  to  have  eonie  from  the  lowest  depth  by  the  selection  of  a  por- 
tion of  the  sediment  from  the  middle  Urndy-packed  section.  The  ani- 
iiiiils  in  this  section  were  the  most  abundant. 

August  1.  —  Behring  Straits  were  entered  after  ])assing  between  St. 
bawrence  Island  and  Cape  Tchaplin  in  a  thick  ['n^r  without  seeing  hind. 
'I'he  ship  hauled  in  for  Semiavine  Straits  on  the  Asiatic  side,  where  the 
(  (iiniiiander  had  determined  to  leave  a  ])arty  under  Lieutenant  lirooke 
to  make  astronomical  and  other  observations.     In  the  afternoon,  land 
was  suddtiuly  seen  close  aboard,  without  the  jxisition  of  the  .-,hii)  being 
well  known,  as  they  had  no  observations.     Lieutenant  lirooke's  notes 
and  Commander  Kodgers'  letters  say:  ''There  never  was  a  more  gloomy 
vdvage  as  far  as  the   absence    of   the    sun    is   concerned;    as  to  ilay- 
liu'lit,  we  have  ei^ough  of  that,  for  the  night  is  only  from  eleven  till 
one."     The  "  Vincennes  "  heading  N.  by  W.,  going  six  knots,  expected 
hv  noon  to  make  the  land,  but  the  continually  rising  and  never-clear- 
ing fog  entirely  shut  out  the  distant  horizon.     After  several  attempts 
t(»  gain  the  harbor,  frustrated  by  losing  sight  of  the  ship's  track  o]j 
which  eyesight  was  necessary  for  safet}^  by  the  help  of  Lutke's  chart 
and  that  of  an  intelligent  Tcliuktchi,  August  4,  anchorage  was  found  in 
(il'issenapp,  lat.  65°  N.,  Ion.  172°  85'  W.     Tiie  Hag  of  Lieutenant  Rus- 
sell, who  had  gone  forward  in  the  boats,  was  already  up.     From  the 
deck  some  mound-like  structures,  the  huts  of  the  Tchuktehis,  were 
seen,  with  what  appeared  the  framing  of  others,  —  eight  or  ten  whale-ribs 
set  upon  end  close  together.     A  large  number  of  the  men.  with  their 
women  and  children,  crowded  around  the  ship  in  their  baiihini,  skin- 
boats;  they  were  all  dressed  in  furs,  generally  with  coats  of  deer-skin, 
and  pantaloons  of  seal-skin,  over  which  they  wore  looser  frocks  made 
of  the  intestines  of  whales  or  other  sea  animals.     They  were  tall  and 


I  )  I}' 
I 


!!   'u 


i  ''I 


^  m 


lini 


t 


of  Sounding,  the  latest  being  those  of  Lieutenant-Commander  C.  T).  Sigsbee,  and  Lieu- 
tenant-Commander J.  K.  liartlett,  United  States  Navy,  of  the  work  done  on  the  "  Blake  " 
in  tlie  Gulf  of  Mexico;  the  modifications  used  by  them  being  chiefly  the  use  of  the  wire 
ami  of  Sir  W.  Thompson's  improvement  of  the  valve  invented  by  Sigsbee. 


Ir 


ii  A 


1 1 

!:1 


!!■    ' 


120 


AMKKirAN    KXI'LOUATIONS    IS    Till:    K'K   /ONKH. 


IiikI  liirj^'c  lit'iids;  the  lliitiicss  of  tlifir  riuics,  relieve. I  only  I>y  |)r<»iuin<'iil 
elieeklxiiies,    iiiiikiiiLj'   tlieiii   iipjx'iir  siiii,'uliirly   heavy.      Tli 
sIkiiii,  except  a  l)i(>ii(l  ridj^c  over  the    loichead.      "'I'l 


leir   hail'  was 


le  women  wer(^  no' 


i'^!'')'' 


some   ol'  thorn  (piile   pretty,  partii'ulaily    w  iieii 


thev 


smileil 


and 


when  askint;'  lop  anythinii;'.  they  pnt  on  so  winninij'  an  air  and  smiicMl  sn 
sweetly,  an(i  were  so  iireh  and  annisinn',  the  ol'lieers  eoiild  not  resisi 
them.  Some  had  their  I'aees  sli<;litly  tattooed  with  hine  lines  IVoni  tin 
lower  lip  to  the  chin,  or  on  the  cheeks:  their  hands  and  I'eet  wiM'e  vei\ 
(h'licately  i"orme(l,  hut  not  clean.  They  wore  tlu'ir  haii-  lon<jf,  plaited  in 
t-wo  ptMidants,  adorned  with  little  stiiiiy's  of  red  and  white  heads.'' 

'I'he  ol'lieers  of  the  ship  were  much  surprised  to  see  jicrsous  ol'  such 
fair  c(unple\ions  and  otherwise  aureeahle  appearance  liviiiL;'  in  such  ;i 
country  and  suhjecteil  to  such  ex])osure  'I'he  parly  made  read\ 
excliaiii>'es  of    walrus   teeth,    lances,   and   liar|M)ons   made   of   the    ivor\ 


ol     the    moose 


lor    needles. 


II 


iread 


sil 


and 


like    art  icles  ;    tohacco 


IxMlc''   cliiell\'  desircf 


I.      All   could   either  smoke  or  chew,  and  Wn'  hall' 


\>\u'^  of  the  weed  lliey  \\  illim;ly  i;a\('  wea])oiis  which  must  iiuvc;  cost 
them  wei'ks  ol'  patient  labor.  They  imniired  I'or  n'roy",  ol'  which,  how- 
ever, vei\-  little  was  oiveii  to  iheiii.  This  rai-e  are  sjxtken  ol"  in  the 
lettiu's  ol"  ( 'omiuauder  l{od,L>'ers  ''as  a  line-looking'  set  of  iiieu,  of  free  and 
Ixtld  heariii^'.  Of  all  the  Asialie  races  inliahitint;'  Siberia,  they  onl\- 
have  not  submitted  to  the  tribute  ol"  ]ielli'ies  demanded  by  the 
Russians.""  *      'l'houi;h  still  in  a  t;'i'eal  measiu'c  Nomad.-;,  they  have  fewer 


iJjlJi'j 


I 


*Jiiciil.  IIovij;iiiinl,  in  his  "  .N()nl('iiski(")l(ls  Voyau'o."  i^p.  117-111),  Siiys  of  this  ra«'o  : 
"  When  Yfiiiiak  'riiiidfcy.'lf,  thf  Kossack  chief,  in  l.JT'.',  flfd  and  crossed  (;ver  tlio  Ural 
Mountains,  lie  ;ind  liis  snceessors  snlidaed  in  th<'cnin-se  of  a  cenlnry  nearly  all  tlie  tcrriloiy 
whicl)  \v(>  call  Siberia;  hiil  in  the  outlyiii'.;  northeastern  jiart  of  IheOid  World,  a  small, 
eoiua^eous,  bnl  sava.i^e  race  of  iieojile  kept  the;  rest  loss  conijnerors  at  hay.  This  was  (lie 
(Jlniekchcs. 

"  Bofore  the  con'|iiest  of  Sihi>riii  th(>  Chuokclios  lived  in  ahnosl  coiislant  ivarfare  with 
the  otlier  rae(>s  in  tin;  norlheastcrn  disiriels,  in  consofiuencc!  of  the  raids  of  ono  tribi;  u]k)ii 
another.  'I'he  ("Inickches  -were  j^enerally  tlie  victors  in  these  wars,  ami  gainod  great 
renown  for  bravery,  and  weie  considered  alnujst  invincilde.  In  the  middle  of  tlu;  last 
century,  however,  I'avla/.ki  made  a  suc.'essfnl  inroad  into  their  coiuitry.  and  aftor  several 
defeats,  and  considerable  losses,  they  retreated  into  their  inhospitable  nioimtaiu  regions. 
where  (he  victors  conld  Jiot  jmrsiie  them  \ithout  great  ditrK'ulties  and  endless  dangers. 

"The  liussians  were  satislied  with  subduing  the  smaller  and  nearest  tribes.  A  long 
time  elapsed  before  they  succeeded  in  entering  into  any  friendly  connuunicatiou  or  cstai)- 


li^liiiig  any 
lirst  tliey  on 
;il'iei'  ihe  ,.x| 
:t|i|M'ared  to 
ili.'ir  womei 
IToijtiihli!  ir 
l.'iis^lans  wa 
'lies,  and  th 
"The  h 
:d-n  hei'ii  gi 
tlie  .\m(!ri(  a 
paiiy  from  S; 
:iiid  similar  ; 
i\i  li.nin'e  ge: 


MKIT.    lUtOOKKS    I'AUTV    ON    SlKlltK 


1-21 


•Ii;iriU!l(!iisti('s    ii('cnin|);inyiii;^'   lluil    mode   of    life   tlimi    llic  WiiiHlcriii;^ 


'rmitjiif 


It 


iiiiiv    lie    icnicinlx'ii'il    tliiit     tlicv    were    Sfivicciiltlc    In 


Ciiiiliiiii    Mnurc,   of    II.  I).  M.    slii|»    ••  I'lnvcr,"  of   the    l''r;iiikliii    liclicf 


.XIKM 


lilinli,    ISlS-"):.*,    ulicii    he    iiiiclinicd    in-iii'    llu'lii. 


I'lio  C^)iniiiiiii(lt'i'  nl'  tlic  '•  N'iiicciiiirs,"  (III  .u'l'iiin-  ;i.s|ioi(.  with  Licu- 
h  niuif  IJi'dokc  t(t  select  a  pusilioii  I'ur  the  ciiiiiiiiiiL;'  of  the  oliseiviiiLf 
h.irtv  l('feri'«!(l  tt»,  Inlllid  tlie  lints  Id  he  iiiimK'  nl'  liide.  |iatelied  uvel' 
ri;iiiie\V(trl<s  (if  Wdod  mid  w  lialelKHie.  Tliey  were  small,  S(|nare  (ir  rec- 
1, insular  a|iartiiieiits,  with  inner  I'ddtiiin'  (if  furs  fdr  slee)iiiin'-()liU!es. 
'I'lie  ciilinai y  and  dther  utensils  were  susjien(le(l   IVoiii    the   iddf :  in   tlie 


ceiill'C!   w 


as  a  Hat    stdiie,  dver  which    hun!>'  iron   kettle 


Tl 


le   'Mound 


\V,IS    s 


trewii   with    Ixmes  of  tlu!  moose 


TIk!  hesitancy  on  tlu;  part  of  Commaudcr  J?()(l<(('Vs  to  leave  the 
(ilisiTviii'4'  party  at  this  place  was  overcome  liy  the  |)r()ni|)(  desires  of 
llic   Lieutenant    to   secure    results   which    the   unl'a\(iialile  w  cat  her   had 


!lll- 


iir  cdiitinudush   fdrliiddeii.      ( )n  the  oih,  at  an  ear 


Iv  I 


idur. 


<un 


hinini;'  cheerfully,  and   scaicelya   lireath   df  wind   st  irrin^,  t  he   trausit- 
iiii>e   was   lan(le(l,   with    twd    tenls.   and   spars,  and    sails  as    materials 


Ml'  liiiildin^'  a  cdmnid(lidus  lidiise 


I. 


ieutenant    iii'ooke   dlilaiiied    iiioni 


allilndes  and    one  al    meridian,  liesi( 


e  se\cral 


near   it.   with   which 


las!  i>l)servalidiis  Liculenant  Kiisseirs  au'i'ee(l.  'riie  station  was  on  the 
-hdii'.  al  the  head  of  llie  Iii^ht  which  this  little  liay  fdrms.  Trdxisidns 
Were  laii(le(l  for  eleven  persdiis  for  two  uidiitlis,  and  the  ]iarty  were 
lliordii^'iily  equippeil   f(ir  defeiice,   by   the   ^'uii    of  llic   launch,   tw(dve- 


!i^liiii<;- any  tvmW  witli  tlio  Cliiicliclics.     Tlioy  wore  still  suspi( 


oi'  llic  liiissians,  anti  at 


lirsl  tlicy  (inly  sliowcd  tlxMiisclvi's  in  ^^rcat  luinili 


and  fiillv  aiiiu'd.  (in  the  hordcr.- 


(in 


:iliiT  llic  cNiicricncc  nt'  many  ycai-s,  and  many  jii'dofs  of  the  sincerity  of  the  Knssiaiis,  tlicy 
ajilicaicd  lo  fed  more  and  inort^  sccnre,  and  In  Wi'angclfs  time  they  came  fearlessly  wil.li 
ili.ir  \tonien  and  eliildi'cn  to  the  distant,  Itnssian  fairs  over  the  liorders.  nntil  a  mntually 
I'l'dlitaliU!  trade;  was  developed.  Another  important  resnlt,  of  this  Intcreonrse  with  the 
i.iH-ians  was  the  softening  imluenee  of  the  habits  of  civilized  Knrop(\ans  npon  the  <'linclv- 
■lies.  and  Ihoir  foinn^r  savaj,'ery  viinishcd  to  a  ,t;rcat  extent. 

■■'rii(!  hostih^  feelini;  has  now  completely  died  out,  and  of  late  years  the  natives  have 
;il-o  l)e(>n  gr(>atly  inlluenccd  liy  their  interconrse  with  tlie  Ain(!ricans.  'J'hey  d(i  not  like 
the  AnuMican  whalers,  as  they  iiiterf(rc  with  their  seal  and  walrus  hunting;  but  a  com- 
pany from  San  Francisco  sends  every  year  some  ships  to  barter  with  them  for  walrns  teetli 
iiiiil  similar  articles,  and  these  traders  tlie  riinckehes  look  uimn  as  i;ooil  friends,  as  tlnsy  in 
i\(  li.in>;e  get  biandv.  tobacco,  clotii,  etc." 


U   iiK.  I     '    !  ' 


M' 


J 


0m 


.  ;!il 


'f: 


■ :  I 


:    i 


ii 


/  1 


)i«|! 


h  ,  I 


ill 


i  ! 


122 


AMKItU'AN    KXI'I.OItATIONS    IN    THK    ll'K   ZONKS. 


|H»uii(lei-    howit/.rr,    lifty-tliico     roiuidH    dl'    canister    mid    hIioII,    thin 
ciirltiiu's,   llirco    iiiuskets,  ami    tUvvv,    lilies,  witii    al)<)iit    oiio    tliousaiid 
eaitridj^fes   and    their  a|)piirtenanees.      A    wluih'hoat-hiiilt    (Mittei   was 
also  h't't,  ill   which  to  escape  in  case  of  acei(h'iit   to   the  sliipi 

At  the  time  of  lauding",  the  natives  came  aiomid  them  in  cro\V(U. 
tiic  ehihh'cM  canviiii;'  many  thinj^'s  from  the  hoat,  and  tlms  assistint;  in 
|)hicin<4  the  stores  under  shelter.  l>rook(?  did  not  fear  the  peopU',  whn 
seemed  to  he  honest  and  indepemh'nl.  ('onimamh'r  liod^ers  ami 
Lieutenant  Fillehrown  took  some  observations  from  the  hi^diest  pciil, 
of  the  islands,  and  Mr.  E.  I{.  Kiiorr,  now  of  the  llydro<fraphie  OHicc, 
Washinjfton,  ineasiirod  a  iiase  line  on  the  iteninsnla.  On  the  next  dav 
a  clear  sky  permitted  liieutenant  linxike  to  j^'et  a  very  i^ood  set  d 
e(pial  altitndes,  and  in  the  oveninfjf,  hy  the  Planet  .Inpiler,  he  got  tin 
♦ransit  a|»proxiiiuitely  into  the  meridian.  On  the  7th  the  Commander 
of  the  "  N'inceiines"  came  asliore  to  see  that  the  party  wei'c  not  in 
want  of  anythinj;',  and  t(»  bid  farciwoll ;  lie  informed  tlu^  chief  of  tlir 
villaj^fe  that  the  itarty  would  remain  on  shore  until  the  rcftmn  ol'  tin 
ship,  and  that  lie  would  reward  him  if  they  were  kindly  treated,  bin 
punish  any  offenders.  The  chief  answered,  "All  is  very  fjfood."  'I'heie 
was,  however,  little  eneouragement,  so  far  as  supplies  of  game  or  rein- 
deer might  be  needed,  and  there  were  indieations  of  insinecirity.  Mm 
Lieutenant  iirooke  had  no  ai)prehensions.  The  '  Vincennes"  got 
under  way. 

The  LieuteuiUit  found  himself  located  on  a  Peninsula,  w  hich  was 
filmost  a  meadow  land,  luxuriantly  carpeted  with  grass,  and  blue, 
white,  and  yellow  blossoming  flowers.  The  harbor  itself,  level  and 
containing  several  square  miles,  is  formed  by  a  low  and  sickle-shaped 
Peninsula,  covered  with  grass;  its  shores  gravelly.  High  mountains 
rose  on  the  in-shore  side;  snow  and  ice  lay  in  the  hollows,  but 
were  beginning  to  melt,  and  the  pools  of  fresh  water  stood  upon  the 
plain. 

The  party  under  the  Lieutenant  consisted  of  two  of  the  naturalists 
of  the  surveying  expedition,  Messrs.  Stimpson  and  Wright,  Mr.  Kern. 
the  artist,  three  marines,  and  five  sailors,  one  of  whom  was  the  (M 
Cossack.     Commander  Rodgers  ""had  in  the  marked  j)rudence  and  tiiiii- 


m\  V 


Tin;   TCIIUKTCHIS. 


\'2'.i 


iir<s  (if  their  Cliicl'  the  stroii^f  iisHiiiaiuc  that   he  wmild   I'lid   them  sulV 
(,ii  his  return  from  thu  Niu'th." 

The  month  «lurin<^  which  they  remiiinecl  at  this  station,  awaitinj^  the 
Kiiirn  of  the  "Vineennes,"  was  ocuupieil  l»y  the  res|iective  olheers  ioi' 
eljservinj^  purposes  as  ehisely  us  the  unfavorahh'  weather  permitted,  and 
ii  is  j^niitifyint;  to  h-ai-n  that  their  work,  with  that  of  t)ther  portions  of 
the  llxpcdition,  has  been  eaUed  for  i)y  the  Smithsonian   Institution   for 
pr(ililal)le  use.     Friendly  intercourse  with  tiiu  natives  who  visited  the 
(iiinp,  and  with    their  \ina<''es,  was   almost    continuously    maintained 
without   diHieulty;    the    only    exceptions  were    those    of   (tiic    or    two 
occasions  on  which  a  native  had  hec^n   freely  indul>^in^  from   the  sup- 
plies   of   rum    which    had    b(!en    so   iniixcusahly    i'urnished   by    traders 
previous  to  this  visit.     The  party  under   Lieutenant   Brooke  had   IVe- 
(jiieiit  opportunities  of  witnessini;'  the  habits,  customs,  and  manneis  of 
tlie  natives,  their  nu-ans  of  obtaininj;'  their  food,  their  manufacture  of 
articles  for  sale  to  tlie  traders,  and  their  varied  anuisements.     The  last- 
named  of  these   presented  S(»Mie  characteristic  <lill'crences  from   those 
ovMcrally  described   by  explorers  in  other   Arctic;    regions.     In    their 
anuisements  of  ruuniuf^  and  wrestling,  the  good  humor  which  |»revailed 
is  spokciu  of  by  Lieutenant  Brooke  as  remarkable,  the  contests  ending 
with  a  smile  from  both  victor  and  vanquished. 

In  perforuumces  of  an(»ther  and  very  singular  charactter,  it  seemed  to 
liiiu  that  what  was  done  was  in  imitation  of  thi'  antics  of  wild  beasts, — 
hears,  Avalrus,  and  seals.  In  his  jouriuil  he  says:  "Ea-ack-til-ha  treated 
us  with  an  exhibition  singular  enough,  and  Avithal  very  theatiical ;  he 
stood  out  before  us,  and,  throwing  back  his  head,  seemed  in  an  agony  of 
strangulation ;  his  eyes  upturned,  squinted  and  rolled  in  their  sockets 
like  evening  lightning ;  all  his  muscles  were  rigid,  and  he  trendded  as 
if  galvanized.  A  noise  was  heard  like  that  of  a  drowning  man,  —  a  gur- 
gling sound,  but  loud.  He  slapped  his  hands  violently  against  his  head, 
then,  extending  his  arms  by  his  side,  fell  like  a  log  upon  his  back. 
Then  his  feet  went  up  in  the  air,  and  rolling  on,  he  seemed  to  spring 
up,  feet  foremost,  his  head  upon  the  ground.  He  was  dressed  in  fur, 
aiul  the  long  hair  about  his  neck,  with  the  savage  character  of  the 
•  lecorations  of  his  person,  produced  an  extraordinary  inq)ression  ;  one 


:'t 


lii 


Nfi 


1^  i 


124 


AMioiMcw   i:\iM,(>i:,\'i"i(tNs  IN    rill';  \(i\  z(»ni;s. 


ciiiild  hiii'illv  i'(';ili/r  lliiil  lir  Wiis  tlic  siiiiic  in, in  wiio  ciinic  smiling'  to  ns 
iil'icrwiinis,  iiiid  cxcliiinircl.  ■  M<  l-lrhl nL- l\<i !'  " 

Tlic  .skin-lniiits  nscd  in  liiintin^'  the  wnliiis  ;iii(|  llir  seal  iirc  man 
iiU'cil,  like  lliosf  (if  (iIImt  Arclic  iialivcs,  l»v  the  skill  ol  ^nt'  wliu  sils  in 
llic  niiddlc,  in  a  nnind  hole,  jiisl  lari^i'  rnonn'li  In  pcnnil  v;\s\  ^^cdinn 
ii|>  and  iliiwii.  When  ndliiiL;'  in,  nrrat  cart'  is  taken  hy  r\cii  Ihc  iikisI 
<!X|iriicii(rd  to  |ir('\<'iil  an  n|isi'l.  In  all  tlic  Imals  scal-skins,  hhtwii  n{> 
like  small  Uallimns.  ai."  used  as  himys.  Iirr-|iirs('i'\  ers,  ur  lenders  uliilc 
linn  I  in''. 


Tlie  '•  N'iiiccmies,"  in  liie  |irusecii(iun   nl'  ( '(ninmiiider   Ijod^crs'   plan 

il"  iiei'    N(i|  I  lieili  eiiiise,  ciilered   I  lie   A  rel  ic  Sea    AilL^ilsl    II.      ileliadlinl 

■xpeeled   lo  aMeiii|il   a  Viiyai;e  lo  llie  j'ai'   N'lnili.   llie  Held  nf   lalior,  as  lie 

\|i|-essed  il   in  liis  Idler  In  llie  I  )e|iail  nieiil,  Iteiii''-  rallier  to  llie  Soiilli- 


•\  an 


I  (pT  Cajie   I'/ist   I 


lan  I II 


llie  N'lnl  h   of  il.      il 


was   III  I  ell  y  impussili 


111  expeel  lo  wiiiler  ill  a  lii^li  lalilnde,  llie  sliiji  had  Iml  I'diii-  immllis 
pi'dvisioi  and  I'liel.  and  I  lie  ( 'i)iiiiiiaiider  was  '•  desirous  lo  reliirn  ti 
Hie  work  n\'  llie  siir\c\s  al   llie  earliesi  dale  eoiisisleiil   willi  I  l*e  visiliin 


lo    I  he    laiMl    III    ahoiil 


II.    1-r    N..    I' 


III.    I  (■) 


\\ 


as 


plaeiMJ     upon     the 


Adniirally  eliails  riom   the    jfeport  of   II. I'.. M.  I'ri'^ale  'Herald/  ('aplaiii 
Kellell  :    with  eNaniinin'.^   Ilerald   Island,  seen   hy  the  same  ^hip,  Itiil   not 


exiiJoriMi 


anil    llie   I 


iidea\(ir    to    rea 


•h   W 


I  anu'e 


and    as  deseniied    |i 


l/ieiileiiant  W  raiiL;eirs  eompaiiion,  \)\.  Kvher.on  his  I'olar  Ivxjiloial 


loll 


of    ISiil. 


he   ship    was    I'aNoied    willi   a    slidiiw'   l»ree/e,   liiil    llie    wealiiei' 


wa.s 


ihiiK    and    loweriiiL;' ;    she    ran   on    iimler  all   sail,   n'elliii<;  a   east,    IVoiii 
II"'   lead    eveiy    hour.      Aiil;iisI    II.   she  eneoiinlered   a   stream  nl'  dril'l- 


W 


*  III  III''  \:iri:iii\c  of  his  I'ixipcilil  iim  lo  |)ii'  I'olnr  Srji,  IsiiiMo  Isi'i;,  liy  laculciiiinl.  Voii 
i;iiiu"li,  of  Mil'  i.assiaii  Niivy,  on  \M'z,r  I'A-J.  (Sfiliiiir,  'Jd  cililion,  isll),  will  l»c  foiiiid  lli'' 


loiiow  111''  :  — 


Sonic  of   III,,  cliiffs  of  llii'  'rcliiiklcjii    liijii's  of   lliis  comsI    Ii;ii|   s|)o1<('II    liiiicli    lo   I)i 


siiiii'  on  very  <'li';ir 
lolcnililv  fin-iiin 


Kylicrof  ;i   moii'   noitliiTii    I.iihI.  Hk-   loflv  nioiinliiins  of  wliidi  wcicvi 
-l.iys  from  Ihc  yV.wv  whii'li  Ihcy  culled  .liik;iii.  :iiid  v.hich   llicy  dcsciihcd 

'<'''i"li''ll.V-      I'''' Ii''ii'  il''-<Ti|ilioii    il    ;i|)|Msiivd    ih;,t    .hikiiii    l;iy    lo   Ihc    I'liisi  \v:ird   of  onr 

prcscni.  posilion,  :inil  I  dciciinincd  lovjsilii.  On  (hi'Slh  of  Aiiril  (  |sl' | ),  I  he  wciilhcr 
\V!is  ciciir.  iind  the  |..,n|ici;iliiic  -f-l.'.")^' in  Ihc  nioinin-  iind  even  inu'.  and  -f :!()''  al.  noon, 
Al'U'i-  following  I.Ik!  <'oiisf,  wliicli  whs  sixty  tVct  lii^li,  for  .seven  ver.sis,  we  eaiiin  to  a  ni'k 


li  III  her, 
sli''  iiad 
I  Ih'Iii. 
ci'Jileel 
lippe.il'e 
hciaiiie 
the  posi 
(■;iiie    II 

171    ST' 
{M'i'iiliar 
clear  I  III 
MJ    land 
c\e    coll 
ai;aiii    111 
[iioposei 
Clew    cdi 
the  nii^li 
and   uf    I 
uliieli  il! 
ohsel'Val 
llie    seci 
made  Ir* 
piisil  ion 
lieili;^'    \'\) 
Hide  \V. 
Iinrns  he 
pearaiiee 
llie  liori/ 


|i|o|eetiii^'  1 
''"li'-isi  illL; 

l''''ily.  Ill  II 
Kvher  of  (' 
'■'''■Koiiiii!,',  I 
III!'  Iioii/,on 

Mitllheni   |;i| 

si'c  iiolhin;. 


TIM'K    I'OSITKiN    OK    IIKl:AM>    ISLANK. 


l:.") 


liiiilici'.  some  nl'  tlic   hers  of  wliicli  were   so   liiij^c   iiml    imiiKMniis   tliiit 
vln>  had  IVrfi  iiciil  ly  •<>  iillci'  licf  (•(dirsc  t)\'  seven  kiiiils  Id  iivnid   sliikiiie- 
iIh'Iii.      She    I'liM   over   the    tail    of   lleiahl    Sliual,    which    had    h'ss   lliaii 
ciMhleeii    lathdins    watei',    and    (tn    the    l;»th    |iasse(|    tlie    ishnid,    which 
;i|,|icarcd   dindy  Itelween    the   cjnnils  as  two   small  ones.      Tiie  weather 
lircanic  i'oe-;4'y,  and  the  ship  stood  Tor  the  North    nntil   she    ran    thi-oiie'h 
tiic  |i(tsition  «d"  tli((    land   as  j^iveii    on    the  Admiralty  cjiarts,  U.N.,  and 
(■line   to   anchor   in    lorty-lwo   ralhoms,  in    lalitnde   72";"")'  N'.,  loneit  nth; 
171    S7'  \V.      in    a    few    honrs    the    I'oi^    lil'teil,    and    a    sudden    ehaiin-e, 
jiccidiar  to    the    Northern    re;4ions,  Hashed    across  the   scene;  it  was  so 
clear  that  t  lie  hori/on  appeared  wilhont  linnt.      No   land   or  ap|)earance 
nl    land  conid  i»e  seen  from  the    royal   yards.      'The  water,  as   lar  as   tli(^ 
i\c  could    rea(di,   was  entirely  l're(i   Irom    ice,  but.   tlii!  weather   heeanie 
;ii4ain   ro[,f;4'V.     ( 'onimandei'   Hodi^'ers,  liavinj^  accomplished  what  he   had 
prtiposed,  and    heine'  assni'ed  that.  a.  lonj^c^r  exposure  <d'  iiis  ollicers  and 
cicw  could  icsidt  in  injuiy  only,  returne<l    towanl    Herald    Island.     <  )n 
llir  ni^ht  of  the  1  It  h,  t  Ik!  surf  was  heard  sullenly  hreal<ine- (m  the  shore, 
;nid   at    two  in   the   nioi'uin^^  an   avajanche   thundered  down   the  island 
which  had  not  heen  seen.      At.  sir   A.M.,  two  Itoats  lei'l  the  ship  to  make 
iiliservalions   I'or   positii>n;   the  weat  her,  however,  unhappily   prevented 
ihe   scciirine'  ol"   satisl'actory    results    uidil     lurthei'    ohserval  ions    were 
made  from  on  hoard  the  ship;    hut  these  jilaced  the  island  in  a  dil'lerent 
|insilion    Irom    that    f.^iven    i)y  Captain    IveUetl,   tlie   Sout heasteiri    point 
licin;^   lixed    hy  the   ••  X'incenncs  "  in  71'  lil'  latitude   N.,  17r»"  'JO'  ioni^i- 
liide  \y .     'I'he  island  was  i'oinul    to  have   the    form  of  a    hali'-moon,  its 
liurns  heini;' connected  hy  a  less  elevated    isthmus,  which   eave   the  ap- 
|ii  araiice  ol'  ( here  hein^'  t  W'o   islands,  i"(M'   the    isthmus   nnelil    he   below 
liie  hoii/ou,  while   liu!  extremes  arc;   above    it.     Tiie   sides  were   louiid 


I  .ir 


I 


I'liiicciiii;^' somd  way  intd  I  lie  sea,  hclilii.l  wliicli  the  sliorc  hikIiIciiIv  bi'coiiws  Idw  ;mil  ll;il. 
'■iiii^isliii','  of  Ljravl  iiinl  wcallirrcd  rrMi^iiiciils  ol'  i-ock.  'I'lic  iihicc  ('niri--i)oii(liil  piT- 
I'lclly,  ill  llii'sc  ami  oilier  rfsiici'ts.  widi  tlic  (|i'scri|ilinii  wliidi  (lie  chicrs  li;i<l  i;ivrii  In  Dr. 
KvImt  of  ('ape  .Fakan.  I  ileleniiiiiecl  its  l.ililiide  (id  "  IL";  iiiid  lis  loiiiilliide  is  IT'l  :!i;' liy 
nTkoiiiiiir,  depeiideiil,  on  oiir  oii-^crvalioii  the  diiy  lirfore.      W'c  ^ii/.ed  loii;^  .'iiid  eanieslly  on 

llii'  Iliili/OII  ill  llOpC'H,  .'IS  llie    allllO'^plieli'  \v;i^    eji'iii',  of    disccniillL;   some  .nipeiiriime  of    the 

MditJK  III  liiiid,  wliieli  llie  'l'(;liiikl<'liis  alliiiii  they  have  seen  from  tliii  phiee,  hut:  we  could 
sec  iiolliiiiir  of  it." 


t   ■ 


III 


I  i 

I.  !1 


I,, 

!  ^ifi'l.    I 
'  il 


j       1 
i 

■ 

■1           .'.i' 

' 

,1 

1 

1        |: 

i 

4 

hi    f 


1  -H] 


AMEKKJAN    KXl'LOKATIOXS    IN    THK    ICE   ZONES. 


very  stee|)  and  full  of  diuifjor,  nearly  causing  the  loss  of  life  of  an 
ollicer  who  endeavored  to  clinib  them,  a  piece  of  rock  giving  way  under 
his  foot ;  the  frost  iiad  broken  up  the  friable  material  of  the  rocks 
and  earth.  John  Watts,  an  active  man  of  the  boat's  crew,  and  witli 
good  eyesight,  succeeded  in  reaching  the  summit,  but  no  land  could  be 
seen  in  any  direction,  although  the  horizon  was  excellent,  and  Com- 
mander Kodgers  w'as  comi)el)c(i  to  write  :  "It  would  be  far  pleasanter  to 
confirm  the  discovery  of  otiicr  land  than  Herald  Island,  than  to  believe 
that  Commodore  Kellett  was  mistaken  in  his  views ;  yet  we  were 
convinced,  however  unwillingly,  that  appearances  had  deceived  him. 
Several  times  land  was  reported  to  us  by  the  man  at  the  masthead, 
which  eventually  proved  to  be  only  clouds,  and  sometimes  where  I 
knew  no  land  could  be  seen,  since  we  had  passed  through  the  position 
on  which  it  was  said  to  be.  On  the  15th  we  ran  for  Plover  Island. 
The  air  was  clear  and  bracing,  but  when  half  way  to  the  position  of  the 
land,  as  placed  on  the  chart,  we  were  stopped  by  a  barrier  of  ice.  At 
but  half  the  distance  tl'  •  Herald  '  had  been,  nothing  from  the  royal 
yards  in  the  favorable  weather  we  had,  could  be  seen,  and  I  am  forced 
to  the  conclusion  that  Plover  Island  does  not  exist.  Captain  Kellelt 
could  only  give  his  honest  conclusions,  and  it  would  have  been  wrong- 
to  omit  the  notice  of  such  palpable  appearances;  for  any  navigator,  under 
the  circumstances  which  controlled  his  acts,  must  have  followed  his 
course  in  giving  his  convictions,  and  then  have  left  the  matter  to  the 
investigations  of  time  and  the  confirmation  or  rejection  of  those  who 
should  have  better  opportuni<^'es  for  ascertaining  the  truth  of  what  he 
saw  as  probable." 

The  log  of  the  "Vincennes"  at  this  jjcriod  presents  a  number  of 
items  of  special  interest,  some  of  which  are  here  presented:  "August  18, 
at  7  A.  M.,  the  fog  lifted.  Sent  lookouts  to  the  royal  yards,  and  took 
a  careful  look  around.  Could  sec  no  appearance  of  land;  horizon  to 
W.  N.  W.  and  N.  good  and  clear  for  a  radius  of  thirty  miles.  Nothing 
in  sight.  A  lu'ight  lookout  for  land  and  ice  ahead.  Tiie  'Vincennes' 
at  anchor,  hit.  72°  Go-  27"  without  current ;  72°  02'  27,"  allowing  a  cur- 
rent <if  one  knot  per  hour.     Southeast  by  E.,  Ion.  174°  37'  15"  W" 

Tlie   log  of  the  1-lth  has   the  minutes,  "from  eight  to  meridian, 


THE    "  VINCKNNKS'"    LfKi. 


12T 


siiumled  every  hour ;  each  time  j^ot  huttoin  with  forty-three  fathoms; 
l)(itt()in  hard.  Fired  a  gun  for  the  purpose  of  ascertainiug  by  echo  our 
(lisiiiiice  from  land; — heard  no  echo.  At  8  a.  M.,  the  weather  very 
clear  and  light,  a  pink  and  rose-colored  l)and  of  light  rested  over  the 
soutliern  horizon  at  an  altitude  of  about  live  degrees,  embracing  an 
aiii|tlitiule  from  S.  S.  W.  to  N.  K.  From  meridian  to  four,  fired  two 
^iiiis  to  i)erceive  echo.  It  was  believed  to  be  observed  at  both  trials. 
Current  running  north  by  west." 

The  log  of  the  15th.  '-At  1  A.m.,  fog  lifting,  made  Herald  Island. 
'11  It'  bay  of  Middle  Point  covered  with  ice,  which  extended  to  N.  W. 
liv  X.  Different  portioiis  of  the  island  covered  with  snow  and  ice. 
|)i])th  of  water  at  4  A.  M.,  twenty-fuii.  fathoms.  Two  boats  left  the 
slii|)  to  land  on  Herald  Island  to  take  observations.  No  other  land  in 
sinlit.  Small  Hoes  of  ice  drifting  to  the  north.  The  boats  returned, 
Itriiiying  s[)ecimens  of  plants  and  minerals  and  of  l>irds,  whicli  were 
txcci'dingly  numerous  and  so  tame  as  to  be  caught  by  the  hand.  At 
iiiioii  Herald  Island  about  three  miles  distant.  Xo  other  land  in  sight 
I'lijin  royal  yard,  with  a  clear  horizon  to  north  and  northwest.  Lati- 
tude observed  71°  21'  3(3"  N." 

The  log  of  the  16th.  "  Distance  from  Herald  Island,  per  log,  lOO^ 
miles.  Ice  seen  from  deck  from  S.  to  VV.  b}'  N.,  packed,  and  as  ffr  as 
♦.lit  (y(!  can  reach  from  the  top  masthead.  At  8.80  tacked  ship,  a  bar- 
riti'  of  ice  extending  from  S.  to  N.  W.  Sent  lookouts  aloft ;  weather 
char.  Could  see  a  radius-'  of  thirty  miles;  no  laiid  in  sight  except 
Herald  Island." 

The  log  of  the  17th.  "Latitude  68°  45'  20".  From  eight  to  merid- 
ian soun(^ed  every  hour ;  twenty-eight  fathoms ;  bottom,  soft  mud  and 
shells.  Found  the  surface  current  .584  knot  per  hour,  N.  W. ;  at  two 
i'athonis'  de[)th  .642  knots  per  hour;  at  five  fathoms'  depth  .817  knots 
licr  hour,  N.  W. ;  at  fifteen  fathoms'  depth  .758  knots." 

The  log  of  the  18th.  "Passed  a  large  log  of  drift-wood;  water 
whitish-green  color.  At  6.05  A.M.  made  the  coast  of  Asia,  distance 
forty  miles;  high  volcanic  cone;  land  in  view  along  the  southern  board, 
ail  elevated  pi'onn)ntory,  supposed  to  be  C'ape  North.  A  large  number 
ol'  birds  of  different  species." 


1 
it  1 

1  ■ 

M 


w 


V 


r:ii 


If 

: 

n 

1  '  ': 

l' 

; 

■ 

\'.\ 
■■':■] 

'             f 

'i 

i 


( 
i 
i 

!'' 

;,■ 

^1 

■'     1 

:       1 

i 
i 

p  'll 


I   ! 


128 


AMKUICAN    KXI'LOUATIONS    IN    THE    ICE   ZONES. 


'riic  •■  Niiici'iiiK's""  iKAV  rail  lor  VVraiigoll  Land.  On  tlio  lOtli  tlnj 
weatlitT  was  lon^v,  masses  ot"  iee  floated  near,  ami  a  wall-like  buriici' 
was  heloie  the  sliip.  She  was  within  ten  miles  of  the  position  of 
Wriin,<;ell  Land,  in  tiie  ie[ioi'ted  Polynia,  or  open  sea.  in  hit.  70°  41'. 
Ion.  177°  '2\'  W.,  wlien  thus  arrestecL  No  land  eoiild  In-  seen,  though  ii 
was  thought  the  vision  extended  six  or  eight  miles  in  every  direct  inn. 
Tlie  ("ominander  "had,  with  some  reluctance,  stood  lor  this  land,  Irom 
an  unwillingness  to  take  so  much  time  from  the  ])eeuliar  duties  ot  the 
Expedition;  hut  he  had  known  that  no  keel  had  j)eiietrated  where  lie 
proposed  to  go,  and  that  a  knowledge  ot"  the  depth,  the  tem^ieratuic. 
and  the  currents  would  he  ol"  value  ii"  land  should  not  he  diseovereil. 
He  had  attained  the  limits  which  he  had  ])roj)Osed  for  his  cruise,  and 
penetrated  further  than  anyone  in  the  direction  selected."  He  gaxc 
orders  to  return,  ('(tntinuous  adverse  head-winds  from  the  northeast 
permitted  the  rounding  of  J'^ast  Cape  on  the  81st  only,  on  which  daw 
with  evi'iy  ap[)earaiiee  of  a  gale,  the  '••  Viiicennes,"'  making  eleven  and 
a  half  knots,  ran  into  St.  Lawrence  Hay,  after  making  a  survey  of  whi(  li 
hay,  she  again  headed  south  on  Sei)teniber  8.  and  on  the  r)tli  airivi  d 
at  Semiavine  Straits,  where  slie  t"ound  tiie  Ohserving  I'arty  left  tlicic 
in  ^August,  safe  and  in  good  health. 

On  till'  day  ])revious,  while  l^ieuteiiant  IJrooke,  accompanied  hy 
several  of  his  party,  were  in  pursuit  of  a  bear,  on  tlie  Island  Thirkl.)()k 
ill  (xlasenaj)])  Harbor,  from  the  heiglit  of  a  si)ur  of  the  mountain  Ihcy 
had  been  delighted  Avilh  the  sight  of  a  shi]t  at  such  distance  as  id 
appear  like  a  baidar,  but  with  all  her  sails  identifying  her  as  the  sloo]!- 
of-war.  At  night  he  made  the  usual  rocket  and  other  signals.  On  the 
6th  two  guns  were  lired  to  assure  Commander  IJodgers  of  the  safety  nf 
the  iiarty;  the  "  V^incennes,""  rounding  the  point  with  her  broad  pen- 
nant Hying,  answered  a  salute  of  thirteen  guns  from  the  camping  pai'i\. 
Commander  Kodgers  on  landing  fulfilled  his  promise  to  the  Cli:<r. 
Caroorgar,  by  a.  liberal  number  (d"  jiresents,  including  rice,  molasses,  ;im1 
bread,  and  adding  others  for  the  villagers.  When  tliese  had  conic  \<i- 
getlier,  Caroogar  took  some  of  the  rice  and  molasses  from  each  pun. 
and  scattered  it  to  the  northeast  and  southeast;  then  shading  his  cy-^ 
with  his  hand,  and  looking  right  at  the  sun,  offered  a  portion  to  that 
luininarv. 


\ 


DIFFK.'ULTIKS    ol"    THE   SUUVEV.  129 

A  supply  of  greens  was  inueh  needed  on  board  the  ship,  on  vvliieh 
more  than  twenty  men  were  still  on  the  sick-list  with  scurvy,  but  the 
lateness  of  the  season  prevented  the  gathering  of  anything,  exee])t  a 
.^iiiull  quantity  of  sorrel.    A  moderate  quantity  of  venison  was  obtained. 

RETUnX   TO    SAX    FItAXCISCO. 

September  IT.  —  The  shore  i)arty  having  returned  on  board,  and  the 
>urveys  of  the  harbor  being  completed,  a  line  of  soundings  was  run  at 
ilic  entrance  of  the  Strait,  and  its  outward  passage  exanrliied  by  Lieu- 
tt'iiints  Brooke  and  Fillebrown  and  Mr.  Knorr.  On  tlie  24th  the  pas- 
>w^e  through  the  Aleutian  chain  was  made  by  night,  through  the  Straits 
<il'  Anioukta.  This  passage  was  found  to  be  excellent,  "the  widest  and 
jirobably  the  best  through  these  seas."  Nothing  of  special  interest  oc- 
( iirring  on  her  return,  October  13th,  the  "Vincennes"  anchored  in  the 
luirhor  of  San  Francisco,  which  she  would  have  more  readily  made  if 
the  Light-house  Register  had  not  shown  thri'c  liglit-houses  as  built,  and 
all  alike,  when  one  only  was  there.  The  "  IlaiuHtok  "  and  the  "  Feni- 
iiKue  (yooper"  arrived  in  port  the  day  following. 

In  communicating  to  Secretary  Dobbin  the  results  of  the  cruise,  the 
("onimander  regretted  the  recurrence  of  the  unfavorable  weather  which 
had  so  fre(|uentl3'  })revented  the  observations  of  the  character  he  desired. 
S(M»n  after  leaving  Ilakodadi,  in  Japan,  he  had  entered  into  a  region  of 
tngs,  which  extende<l  far  into  the  Arctic  Seas.  "The  general  observation 
of  the  land  and  (»f  the  heaveidy  bodies  renders  surveying  results  at 
such  times  comparatively  meagre.  The  Russians  complain  that  a  ship 
may  cruise  a  whole  season  without  doing  valuable  work,  and  the  reason 
is  plain;  for  the  currents  make  it  impossible  for  her  to  hold  for  any 
length  of  time  a  position  near  tlie  land  which  is  invisible:  and,  when 
opjjortunity  for  observing  comes,  the  laborer  finds  himself  in  a  place  far 
(lillcrent  from  the  one  he  desired.  When  he  regains  his  position  the 
fog  may  have  liidden  everything.  A  steamer  manifestly  is  the  only  fit 
vessel  for  such  seas,  but  the  '  Vincennes  '  is  a  sailing-ship." 

It  was  natural  that  (^ommander  Rodgers  should  express  his  sensitive- 
ness on  the  point  of  his  success  in  tlie  surveys,  which  he  did  by  adding 
to  this  the  words:  "We  have  reason  to  congratulate  ourselves  if  our 


ii 


s 


}ii. 


1^  -! 


i^ii 


B  ' 


1:50 


AMKinCAN    KXI'I.OIIATIONS    IN    TIIH    ICH    /ONKS. 


icsiilts  sliould  i)i'(tvo  viiluiihh^  (ir  siitisfaetory.''     TiuMr  worth  lias  hecii 
aliciMi}'  slinwii  ;  the  Admiralty  (charts  actkiiowU'dgc  it. 

Ck)i3ely  I'ollowiiit;"  liiis  Kcport  to  the  Sccictary,  ('oimiiaiider  Rod<:r,.is 
forwarded  to  the  Xavy  DcpartiiK'nt  a  scries  of  re(;oiiiiiKMidatioiis  suli- 
iiiilled  by  Aetiiij^'  Lieiiteiiaut  Stevens  of  the;  "  Ilaneock  "  for  furtli(  r 
surveys  in  llio  Pacilic.  Heferriiij^  to  the  Kurile  Islands,  that  oflici  r 
sii_!4<4'ested  their  thoroii<>h  examination,  the  Southern  Jsles  I)eing  very 
incorrectly  charted;  some  of  them  re[K)rted  l>y  whalers  to  be  a  dearie 
furtlicr  cast  than  their  true  positions.  The  noith  side  of  .lesso,  or 
Matsmai,  also  rc(|niri'd  survey.  If  possible,  a  [)ort  should  \h'.  opened  -f(»r 
the  whalers,  since  they  i)ass  alon^'  its  shores,  and  mi_<;ht  ivceivo  supplies 
not  available  on  the  Kamtsehatka  coast,  their  next  stoppinj^'-placo.  Ijotli 
the  ap[)roaches  to  the  Amoor  Kivei-  were  recommended  for  exaniiim- 
tion  ;  and  that  the  river  itsell'  be  visited,  not  so  much  for  the  valu(^  of 
its  channel,  so  continually  chan_t;'in<4'  and  uni)ro(itable,  as  to  learn  the 
resources  of  the  country  and  the  wants  of  the  people,  with  whom  ;i 
useful  connnerce  might  be  established.  It  min'ht  beconu^  one  ol'  llic 
links  in  our  tiade  with  China  and  .Ia[)an  :  ''The  I'ertility  of  the  soil  of 
the  Amoor  is  almost  prolitless  to  the  Uussians  throuL;'h  their  want  of 
laborers;  but  every  want  can  Ix^  suftplied  fiom  the  I'nited  States  more 
readily  than  from  the  interior  of  Uussia.  And  as  the  country  produces 
nothing  to  make  up  a  return  cargo,  tlu^  money  received  for  goods  fiom 
a  trader  might  be  laid  cut  with  advantage,  and  in  a  very  short  time  in 
purchases  in  Japan  or  China."  A  new  survey  was  recommended  for  the 
Ishantee  Islands,  of  which  the  Russian  charts  were  found  insuilieicnt : 
further  examinations  also  of  the  Clulfs  of  .lamsk,  .lijiginsk,  and  the 
harbor  of  liolcharltsk,  hit.  h'!"  50'  N.,  Ion.  lot)  E.,  near  which  the  right 
whale  is  sought.     Numerous  iVmerican  vessels  annually  cruise  there. 

These  suggestions,  with  others  from  the  oHicers  of  the  s  |Uadroii, 
were  made  in  answer  to  the  very  careful  instructions  given  to  each  by 
Commander  Rodgers,  in  which  he  never  lost  sight  of  the  origin;!! 
purposes  of  the  Expedition,  —  those  of  survey's,  of  imiuiries  for  hai- 
bors,  for  the  stcpplies  of  the  mercantile  marine,  and  especially  fur 
the  localities  in  which  coal  could  be  found.  It  would  seem  that  he 
anticipated  at  that  day  the  rapid  substitution  of  steam  for  sail  \\  itliiii 


^'■' 


TH1-:  UNi'L'i5Lisiii:i)  uKi'oirr. 


131 


tlir  iiiercantilo  iiiariiic,  iiiid  to  this  tlu;  exi)erieiu'i'S  (if  the  Kxjicditioii 
iiiii>l  havi!  IimI  thr  thoughts  of  liis  otlii'ers. 

Oil  the  return  ol"  the  Coinuuinder  to  Washii!<jftoii,  arrano'einents 
ncrr  JiuuU)  tor  the  pre[)aratioii  of  a  full  Ueport  of  tlie  Expedition,  and 
il  is  with  a  renewed  expression  of  surprise  and  regret  that  it  is  again 
said  here  that  these  arrangements  were  arrested.  vVs  the  papers  of 
the  olVicers,  except  tliose  of  the  naturalist  (most  unfortunately  de- 
stroyed by  fire  ut  Chicago),  and  the  paintings  and  sketches  made  by  the 
Artists  and  Draughtsmen  are  preserved  by  the  Government,  and  as 
several  of  the  oilicers  of  the  I'^xpedition  are  still  available  for  preparing 
a  full  Narrative,  ma}'  it  not  be  hoped  that  Congress  will  make  the 
itKiderate  appropriation  needed  to  enable  the  l)e[)artment  t(  place 
Ix'fore  the  Naval  and  Mercantile  Marine,  and  the  Scientific  and  Liter- 
arv  World,  the  record  of  valued  labors,  made  with  outlay  by  the 
(iovernment.  In  the  Summary  of  these  presented  to  ('ongress  after 
the  return  of  the  Expedition,  it  was  stated  that  the  "  Vincennes,"  in 
order  to  accomplish  the  surve}'  in  the  limited  ])eriod  during  which  the 
Arctics  Sea  is  open,  found  it  necessary  to  carry  all  the  sail  sh(»  could 
hear,  through  fog  and  mist,  incurring  the  danger  of  wreck  on  shoals, 
hergs,  and  rocks.  All  that  portion  which  is  available  for  whaling  ])ur- 
pdses  was  carefully  ex[>l(U-ed  and  sounded,  while  the  scurvy  had  attacked 
the  majority  of  ofiicers  and  men.  On  her  return,  encountering  an 
obstinate  east  wind,  it  was  for  days  doubtful  that  she  could  make  her 
escape  before  the  rapidly  gathering  ice  would  imju-ison  her,  —  an  event 
bringing  certain  destruction.  With  a  reduced  complenuMit  of  oilicers, 
the  lalxn-  of  the  surveys  was  [jcrformed  in  addition  to  the  duties  of 
actuid  sea  service  in  those  regions  of  tempestuous  character. 

In  connection  with  such  a  record  it  would  have  been  giatifving  to 
find  in  the  "  Statutes-at-Larg(! "  the  passagi;  of  a  Hesolution  similar  to 
tliose  by  which  ('ongress  declared  its  a])[)reciation  of  like  services  by 
other  Expeditions.  The  ])recedents  for  such  action  seem,  however, 
to  have  been  in  this  case  ignored. 


H!:^ 


'     'W 


I        :( 


iii 


ii  ■! 


C  U  A  V  T  E  K   V. 

EXPJ.OKATIONS  OF   DiJ.    ISAAC  1.   IIAYKS.     (ISCiO-lSOl.) 

DESIGN  OF  DK.  HAYES  FOR  A  NEW  EXI'LOHATION  SUGGESTED  WTIILK  ON 
HIS  FIRST  VOYAGE  WITH  KANE.  —  HIS  PLANS  SUTM'OltTEl)  RY  Till; 
SMITHSONIAN  AND  OTITEP.  INSTITUTIONS.  —  SAILS  FROM  ROSTON 
WITH     SONNTAG,    JULY    7,     18(50.  —  ARRIV^ES     OFF     rH(>VEN     ON      Till; 

twenty-fourth  day  out.  —  adds  to  his  ship's  company  and 
supplies  at  upeknavik.  —  crosses  melville  bay  in  fifty-fivi, 
hours  to  cape  york.  —  winters  at  pout  foulke.  —  observa- 
tory set  up.  —  observations  made.  —  experiences  of  tiih 
8eason.  —  death  of  sonntag,  hans'  atjcount  of  it.  —  tiih 
arctk;  night  descuiibed.  —  attempts  to  launch  the  boat  on 
the  polar  ska.  —  iirjhest  point  reached. —  belief  in  thk 
existence  of  the  open  sea  confirmed.  —  experiences  of 
hecent  navigators  compared  with  this.  —  explorations  and 
survey.,  made  0>,  the  return  voyage  to  the  united  states.  — 
purpose  of  a  new  expedition.  —  re(.'eption  of  the  gold  medals 
from  abroad. — volumes  published.      • 

Tlll'j  next  Aint'iicun  Arctic  Ex])l()rati()ii  on  the  Northeiistorn  coast 
was  effected  by  Dr.  Hayes,  surgeon  of  the  second  Grinnell  Ex])e- 
dition.  A  new  voyage  had  suggested  itself  to  him  during  even 
the  severe  experiences  of  his  former  cruise  in  the  "Advance  " ;  but  it 
did  not  become  practicable  until  the  si)ring  of  the  year  1800. 

His  plans  included  an  extensive  sclienie  of  discovery.  The  proposed 
route  was  again  to  be  by  way  of  Sniith's  Sound,  and  his  objects  wei'c  to 
('oinplete  the  survey  of  the  north  coasts  of  Greenland  and  (Jriimcll 
J>.and,  and  to  make  further  explorations  towards  the  Pole,  in  order  '  . 
verity  the  existence  of  the  re[)orted  oi)en  Polar  sea,  and  carry  forward 
investigations  in  the  different  branches  of  scientific  inquiry.  On  the 
former  voyage  he  )iad  traced  (irinnell  Land  beyond  the  eightietli 
parallel,  and  he  now  ho]ied  to  push  a  vessel  into  the  ice-belt  there, 
and  thence  transport  a  boat  over  it  into  the  open  water  of  the  great 
basin  which  he  hoped  to  find  beyond. 
132 


tl ' 


DK.  ISAAC  I.  HAYES,  SUIUiI':ON  OP  TUK  SKCONM  (iUINXELL  EXPEDITION, 
COMMANDKU   OF  THE  EXPEDITION   OK   ISGO-Cl. 


Author  of  "Tlni  Opoii  Polar  Sea,"  "An  Aretii;  Hoa  Jdiirney,"  "The  Land  o*  Desr>la- 
tion,"  etc.  MinhvUist  of  the  Koyal  Geographical  Societ  •  of  l.oiuloii,  and  of  ilie  SociM  de 
Oiogmphie  of  Paris. 


.  !, 


hi 


!  I 


u 


yvfl^ 


'I'lie  I 
('(liist  Sii 
Sliitcs  ;   \ 
ils  siicce.^ 
I  lie  Ivoyjl 
t'roin  the 
lii  KNxiuei 
lixiteditii 
tidiis  wer 
wise  plan 
use  lior  st 
Tl.c  fo 
three  tons 
"I'liKed  ^ 
who,  sinct 
work  ill  JVi 
Dudley  01 
lie  was  tli 
criiitse.     1 
From  t 
I'iiir  e(niipi 
from   Mr. 
cldtliing,  } 
Kane's  in 
July  7, 
the  outer ( 
day  out,  ii 
at  one  tini 
the  schoon 
On  the 
salute  and 
a  day  had 
Hooded  ch( 
After  h 
except  the 


HAILlN(i    OF   THK    "INITKI>    STATES. 


m\ 


The  Kxj)e(liti()ii  received  the  siiitpcirt  of  tlic  Siiiitlisoiium,  i\w  U.S. 
Coast  Siuvcv,  and  the  seieiitilic  societies  ot'tlie  lirst  liiiik  in  the  United 
Suites;  wiiilc  from  iiluoad  v;\uw.  tiie  wiirniest  ('X[)n'ssions  t)f  rcf^fiird  for 
its  success,  coniinunical('(l  hy  Sir  Uoderiek  1.  Mnrchison,  l*r('si(h!nt  of 
ihf  Uoyal  (Jeof]^rai)hicul  Society,  l^ondon  ;  with  a  lil)eral  contribution 
iVoiii  the  Vice-President  of  tlio  Societd  de  (i^ographit;  of  Paris,  M.  (h>    > 
la  Uoqiiette.     Through  the  interest   manifested  by    tlic  friends  of  the 
lOxpedition  in  New  York,  PiiiUulelphia,  IJ(»ston,  and  All)any,  contribu- 
tions were  secured  sullicient  to  equip  one  vessel; — the  original  and 
w  isc  i)hui  of  Dr.  Hayes  to  have  two,  one  t)f  them  a   small  steamer,  to    , 
use  licr  steam-power  only  in  the  ice,  was  found  impractical)]e. 

Tlic  fore-and-aft  schooner  "S[)ring  Hill,"  of  one  hundr(!d  and  thirty- 
three  tons,  was  purchased  at  Boston,  her  name  being  changed  to  the 
'•Tnited  States";  a  change  legalized  by  Congress.  Mr  August  Sonntag, 
\vli(;,  since  his  return  with  Dr.  Kane,  had  been  engaged  in  scientific 
work  in  Mexico,  declined  an  appointment  as  Associate  Director  of  the 
Dudley  Observatory,  Albany,  to  be  the  astronomer  of  the  Expedition, 
lie  was  the  only  educated  person  on  whom  Hayes  could  call  on  the 
cruise.     T]Jie  party  numbered  in  all  fifteen  persons. 

From  the  Smithsonian  and  the  Coast  Survey,  ITayes  had  received  a 
fair  e(piipment  for  scientific  investigations,  su})j)lemented  by  additions 
from  Mr.  Tagliabiie  and  Mr.  Green  of  New  York.  The  outfit  of 
clotiiing,  provisions,  and  ammunition  was  far  better  than  that  of  Dr. 
Kane's  in  180.3.   . 

July  7, 18()0,  the  ship  sailed  from  Boston  haibor.  Uj)()n  her  course  for 
the  outer  Capes  of  Newfoundland,  inside  of  Sable  Island,  on  the  second 
(lay  out,  a  dense  fog  settled  down  for  the  anxious  term  of  six  days, — 
at  one  time  the  black  wall  of  the  breakers  closing  f,ist  upon  her,  until 
the  scliooner  came  round  to  the  wind,  aiul  a  steady  helm  saved  all. 

On  the  30th,  the  crossing  of  the  Arctic  circle  was  celebrated  1)V  a 
salute  and  a  display  of  bunting :  the  average  run  of  one  hundred  miles 
a  (lay  had  been  made  for  twenty  days;  at  midnight,  sunlight  still 
Hooded  cheeringl}'-  the  cabin  of  the  "  United  States." 

After  her  first  heavy  Arctic  experience,  the  loss  of  all  her  canvas 
except  the  mainsail  while  passing  through  Davis  Strait,  by  August  3 


'"'.'Mil 


^f:!' 


rrV 

1  1 
;■•  i      'i 

1 

'1       ! 

1              i 

hi  r 

\ 

\ 

i     ■  ! 


m ' 


*^! 


l:U 


AMKltHAN    KXIM.OltATlONS    IN    TIIK    Mi:    ZdNKS. 


she  Aviis  hilt  loi'ty  iiiilcH  iVoiii  I'riivcn,  mid  Hiiycs  iiidulgrd  the  iilcusin.; 
Iii)|)(!  (>r  ill!  early  laiidiiii;  ;  Imt  the  wind  suddenly  diitd  mil,  keepinij  Ini 
oil"  thu  hind  till  the  Iweiity-rntiith  day  ol'  llieii-  voyai^'e,  when  llu;  harhm 
was  entered  ;  the  U)'^  then  lil'tin^',  ( Jreenland,  with  its  hroad  valleys,  (le(|i 
ravines,  nionntains,  and  I'ntwninin'  lilael<  and  desulate  elilTs,  was  iti  t'nll 
sit^ht,  and  ieeheri^  after  ieeberu' hurst  into  view  like  castles  in  a  lairN 
tale. 


IJELTED    ICEHKUCi, 

A.s  sei'ii  by  ('.  V.  Hull  on  his  Urst  exiic(liti(Pii.  Isil".     (Harper  Urotliers.i 

"  It  seemed,"  says  Hayes,  "as  if  we  liad  hoeu  drawn  hy  some  unseen 
liand  into  a  land  of  enehantment ;  here  was  the  Valhalla  of  the  sturdy 
N'ikings,  here  the  city  of  the  Sungud  Fryer, —  Alfheim  wdth  its  ellin  eaves, 
and  (tlitner  more  hrilliant  than  the  sun,  the  home  of  the  hai)|iy: 
and  there,  piercing  the  clouds,  was  Ilimnhorg,  the  celestial  mount."  At 
midnight  he  wrote  in  his  diary:  "The  sea  is  smooth  as  glass,  not  a 
I'ipple  hreaks  its  surface,  not  a  hreath  of  air  is  stirring.  The  sun  hangs 
close  upon  the  northern  horizon  ;  the  fog  has  hroken  up  into  light 
clouds;  the  icebergs  lie  thick  about  us;  the  dark  headlands  stand 
boldly  out  against  tlie  sky  ;  ajul  the  clouds  and  bergs  and  mountains 


IIAVKS    AT    ri'KIINAVIK. 


!:!;> 


;iiv  liatluMl  in  :iii  iitinosphcrc  of  i-iiiiisoii  iiixl  ^^oM  iiinl  ])nr|il('  most 
M  .'^iilai'ly  l»'iiutil'iil.  Tlic  mIi-  is  wnnii  iiiiiiost  as  a  siiiniiicr  iiinlit  at 
liiiiiKS  iilid  \»'t  tlicic  aic  the  icfltciHs  ami  the  lilcak  iiioiiiitailis.  Tlic 
sky  i^i '"''K'''t»  ^""' '""'  iiis|)iriiii;' as  ilic  skies  of  Italy;  the  hcii^'s  lia\c 
lost  their  cliilly  apitcaraiicc.  aiitl.  ;^litt(>riii^'  in  tiic  l)la/.(>  ol'  tlu'  Inilliani 
liiaVL'iiS,  Bt'cni  in  the  distanci  like  masses  cil'  huiiiislitMl  metal  or  solid 
llanie.     Nearer  at  hand  they  are   h\igo  blocks  ol'  Parian   marhle,  inlaid 


I  1'i;i;navik. 

\  isiicil  liy  the  r.S.  S.   •'.luuial.i,"'  Ciiiil.  I'.riiiiii',  .Inly  ;il,  1.->T.'!.  , 

Willi  mammoth  n'ems  of  pearl  and  jn'oM.  'I'lie  lorm  oL"  one  is  not  unlike 
tlint  of  the  Colisenm,  and  it  lies  so  i"ar  away  that  iialt' its  height  is  buried 
lieneath  the  blood-rod  waters.  The  sun,  slowly  rolling'  alono;  the 
li(iri/.on.  passed  behind  it,  and  it  seemed  as  it'  the  old  Roman  ruin  had 
>iiddenly  taken  lire."  In  the  enjoyment  of  su(di  views  the  exph)rers 
liuried  their  temporary  disa[)|>ointment  at  not  landing'  on  the  new 
hi'.ids;  the  twenty-fourth  day  brought  them  into  Proven. 

At  L'])ernavik  the  ship's  company  was  increased  by  the  addition  of 
six  persons:  Jensen,  n  Dane  who  had  lived  ten  years  in  (ireenland, 
eidisting  as  an  interj)reter,  three  natives  as  hunters  and  dog-drivers, 


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ri 


136 


AMERICA.^    EXl'LOUATIONS    IN    THE  ICE  ZONES. 


and  two  Danes  as  sailors.  J^etteis  being  committed  to  the  care  of  Dr. 
Rudolph,  the  retiring  chief  trader,  who  was  about  to  return  to  Denmark, 
and  would  transmit  them  to  tlie  L'nited  States  through  the  American 
Consul  at  Copenhageii,  the  ship  again  left  the  coast,  heading  north. 

Tessuissak  —  '■''the  place  where  t^o.re  is  a  hay''  —  was  reached  on 
the  21st,  where,  as  at  t'^e  phices  previously  visited,  the  Danish 
of'Hccrs  extended  every  facility  in  tiieir  power  to  the  ship's  company. 
Arctic  clothing  and  dog-teams  were  furnished,  the  number  of  the  teams 
being,  however,  small,  in  consequence  of  a  recent  prevalent  disease 
among  the  dogs. 

On  the  23d.  Melville  Bay  was  entered  in  a  thicj<  snow-storm,  but 
the  crossing  was  effected  without  encountering  much  ice; — a  confirma- 
tion of  Llie  lemarkable  diversity  of  experience  in  this  water  so  often 
adverted  to  by  Arctic  explorers.*  The  passage  to  Cape  York  was  made 
in  lifty-iive  hours.  When  nearing  tiie  Cape,  and  keei)iiig  a  lookout  for 
the  appearance  of  natives,  very  soon  some  were  seen  running  down  to 
the  sea,  among  whom  was  Hans  Ilendrick,  who  jiromptly  recognized 
his  old  companions,  Mayes  and  Sonntag.  and  desired  to  join  them. 
With  his  wife  and  babe  he  was  taken  on  board ;  but  to  prepare  the  new- 
party  for  the  wearing  of  the  dress  of  civilization,  the  sailors  soon  ser 
upoi.  :hem  with  the  use  of  tubs  of  warm  water,  soa[),  scissors,  and  th^ 
coml). 

*  "  Tlu'  whalers  liave  long  called  by  the  iiaim'  of  Melville  Bay  the  expansion  of  Balliii 
Bay  which  begins  at  th"  south  with  the  "mitliUe  ice,"'  and  tonninatcs  at  the  north  with 
the  '*  Nonh  Water."  The  North  Water  is  sometimes  reached  near  Cape  York,  in  httitiidi' 
76*^,  but  more  frequently  higher  up,  and  the  middle  ice,  which  is  more  generally  known  as 
the  "pack,"  sometimes  extends  to  the  Arctic  Circle.  The  pack  is  made  up  of  drilting 
ice-floes,  varying  in  extent  from  feet  to  miles,  and  in  thickn<>ss  from  inches  to  fathom-*. 
These  passes  are  sometimes  pressed  closely  together,  and  having  but  little  or  no  o\h^\\ 
space  between  tlu^jn.  and  sometimes  they  are  V(;ry  widely  sciiaiated,  depending  upon  wind 
and  time.  The  pem^tration  of  this  barrier  i«  usuiilly  an  undertaking  of  weeks  or  months, 
and  is  ordinarily  attended  with  nnich  risk. 

The  "Fox,"  under  the  command  of  Captain  F.  L.  McClintock,  IJ.X.,  was  caught  ;n 
the  pack  on  the  18th  of  August,  IS.^)?.  in  latitude  7.")'  17'  N..  longitude  62''  10'  ^V..  and 
was  not  liberated  until  the  25th  Ai^ril,  1858,  an  interval  of  two  hundred  .and  fifty  days, 
during  which  period  the  vessel  drifted  to  latitude  (i;}"47'X.,  longitude  . '56°  3(5' W.,  1,1!M 
geographical  miles  to  the  southward.  —  per'iaps  the  longest  drift  recorded  up  to  date. 
[The  drift  of  the  floe  party  of  the  I^.S.S.  "  Polaris  "  under  Tyson  was  from  latitude  77°  '^>'> 
N.,  to  latitude  U2,°  .30'  N.,  —  a  distance  of  over  1,200  miles  in  190  days.] 


'lh^l^:« 


m 


WINTER  QUARTERS. 


^:^r 


The  cDast-line  now  presented  the  reappearance  of  the  traj)  I'onnatiou 
of  tlio  island  of  Disco,  and  showed  a  h^fty  ragj.(tMl  front,  brctkcn  hy  din')) 
nijigos  of  picturesque  view,  numerous  streams  of  ice  bursting  throngh 
tlicin.  At  Cape  Athol,  on  the  soutiiern  side  of  Wostenholme  Sound,  the 
igneous  rocks  give  i)hice  to  lines  of  calcareous  sandstone  and  greenstone. 

August  20,  the  ship  reached  a  point  a  little  to  the  north  of  the  i)osi- 
tidii  of  the  old  seaman,  JJallin,  in  1610,  and  of  Captain  Ross,  U.K..  in 
1H18.  twenty  miles  south  of  Cape  Alexander,  the  entering  Caj)t'  of 
Smith's  Sound.  At  the  mouth  of  this  strait  an  ice-pack  forbade 
(•iiUiiuce,  a  second  ut+empt  being  entirely  frustrated  by  a  gale  which 
(hdve  the  ship  off.  A  lodgment  was  secured  only  at  the  close  of  the 
sixth  day.  It  was,  however,  a  disappointment  of  the  most  serious 
character  to  Hayes  to  find  that  he  could  not  hojje  to  cross  the  Sound, 
for  he  had  expected  from  the  first,  as  has  been  shown,  to  make  a  mnr«i 
siRcessful  advance  from  the  western  side  than  Kane  had  been  able  to 
(■ITcct  from  Rensselaer  Bay.  In  a  little  harbor  of  ila; tstene  Hay,  lati- 
tude 78°  17'  41"  N.,  longitude  72°  30'  57"  W.,  ten  miles  northeast 
(if  (ape  Alexander,  and  twenty  south  of  Kane's  harbor  in  1854-5"), 
winter  quarters  were  of  necessity  prepared.  The  position  was  mimed 
Pdit  Foulke,  but  from  Foulke  Fiord  the  chances  of  a  successful  ad- 
vance in  the  succeeding  si)riug  were  much  <liminished. 

The  preparations  for  the  coming  season  were  much  the  same  as 
those  made  by  Dr.  Kane,  and,  indeed,  b\-  all  Arctic  vessids,  and  nerd 
not  be  repeated  here.  A  house  was  built  on  shore  for  stores,  and  an 
Observatory  erected,  furnished  with  a  pendulum  apparatus,  the  beats  of 
which  numbered  3,007  in  3,000  seconds  of  time. 

On  removing  the  pendulum,  October  12,  1800,  a  unifilar  magiiet- 
iiiuclcr  was  mounted,  the  scale  readings  of  which  were  recorded  evt-ry 
seventh  day  hourly,  and  three  times  daily  during  the  interval  lioni 
Niivemberto  the  month  of  March,  1801.  Four  (dasses  of  magnetic  obscr- 
viitions  —  for  declination,  deilecti(Ui,  vibration,  and  dip  —  were  made: 
ilie  series  of  all  the  observations,  including  those  of  a  later  date,  being, 
iifier  the  return  of  the  Fxpedition,  red'iced  and  discussed  by  Mr. 
('.  A.  Scliott  of  the  U.S.  ('oast  Survey,  and  published  as  Volume  X\'.  of 
the  "Contributions"  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution. 


:    i.ft 


I! 


Ml- 1  \^ 


If 


138 


AMEKICAX    EXrLOUATlONS   IN   TllK    ICK   ZONKS. 


The  thermometrical  observatiDiis  of  the  series  show  very  interestin^r 
pomis  of  the  temperatures  of  the  regions  visited  at  that  season.  'J'lic 
vveaLher  was  unlike  that  experienced  by  Kane ;  nortlieast  winds  fic- 
ijuently  were  very  strong,  and  kept  the  water  constantly  open  out- 
side of  the  harbor.  The  lowest  temperature  registered  at  Port  Foulkc 
was,  however,  only  —29°,  while  at  Rensselaer  Harbor,  only  twenty  miles 
further  north,  on  the  same  diiy  with  this  record.  Dr.  Hayes,  on  a  visit 
there,  I'egistered  —08°  F. 

A  visit  to  "Brother  John's  ( i lacier  " —^the  one  referred  to  in  the 
explorations  of  Dr.  Kane,  and  so  caHed  by  him  alter  his  brother,  J)r. 
J.  V.  Kane  —  was  nuide  in  the  vVutumn  by  Hayes,  in  eonip;-iy  with  jNlr. 
►Sonntag-;  a  survey  of  this,  renewed  after  a  lai)se  of  eight  month>. 
showeil  a  downward  movement  of  the  glacier  of  ninety-four  feet.  A 
Journey  upon  it,  and  upon  the  3L;r  de  Crlace  to  the  east.v'ard,  carried 
the  explorers  about  tifty  miles  iidand,  revealing  a  surface  at  iirsc 
broken  and  irregular,  but,  as  tlu'  ]>arty  advanced,  smooth  and  Avitli  a 
regular  ascent.  Tiieir  angle  of  ascent  in  tiavelling  was  at  the  outset 
six  degrees,  decreasing  graduidly  to  two.  The  elevation  reached  was 
about  live  thousand  feet;  but  with  the  winter  had  come  tlu;  UMial  iiiid 
\('ry  serious  misfortune  of  the  loss  of  the  teams,  on  which  any  explor- 
ation depended  for  success. 

TIIK    DKATH    OF    ,MK.  SON ^■  TAG. 

Far  more  distressing  than  this  was  the  deatl;  of  Mr.  Sonntag,  wlin 
perished  in  the  ice  on  his  way  w'ith  Hans  to  visit  the  Es^*inios  at  or  near 
Whale  Sound,  in  order  to  purchase  dogs  or  to  bring  the  natives  to  the 
shi{».  where,  for  the  service  of  their  teams,  they  could  be  fed,  and  the 
prospective  wants  of  the  ship's  company  be  also  looked  after. 

December  22,  as  there  was,  in  Hans'  opinion,  a  probability  that  the 
Eskimos  would  be  congregating  about  Cape  York,  and  that  some  of 
them  might  be  at  Sorfalik,  or  at  other  stations  on  the  north  side  ol' 
Whale  Sound,  the  two  travellers  were  on  their  way,  hoping  that  they 
wcjuld  find  natives  without  going  as  far  as  Northumberland  Island,  but 
pre])are(l.  as  the\  sui)posed,  to  go  e\-en  th.it  far.  Their  provisi(uis 
were  nuide  \i\)  but  for  twelsc  days,  and  they  took  no  tent,  intending  to 


HANS     ACCOUNT  OF   SONNTAti  S   DEATH. 


1:^9 


iclv  (»n  the  siiow-liut,  with  tlie  construction  of  which  Hans  and  Sonn- 
iai;  were  both  tuiniliur.  The  hitter  hud  his  sleepin<:f-bag,  and  was  in 
lii^li  spirits  at  the  prosi)ect  of  a  few  days'  adventin-e. 

The  night  following,  Hayes,  whether  from  a  natural  anxiety  for 
their  safety,  or  from  this  in  connection  with  the  small  prospect  now 
left  of  success  if  they  should  return  without  assistance  from  the  natives, 
luul  a  singular  and  foreboding  dream,  which  may  be  placed  to  tlie 
iiccoiuit  of  like  coincidences  so  fre([ueiitly  arising  out  of  the  conscious- 
ness of  uncertainty  in  times  of  serious  solicitude,  but  without  the  pos- 
>il)ility  ot  one's  being  able  to  account  for  the  foreshadowings  vhicli 
tli(.'V  jirov(!  to  have  been.  He  thought  he  stood  far  out  on  the  frozen 
sell  with  Sonntag,  when  »uddeiily  there  came  a  crash,  and  a  crack 
(i|itiiiiig  between  them,  Sonntag  sailed  away  upon  the  rough  waters, 
lie  last  saw  him,  as  he  thought,  sharjily  outlined  against  a  streak  of 
Iii4lit  on  the  distant  horizon  ;  but  he  was  gone. 

On  the  last  day  of  the  month  Hans  came  in,  but  aecompanietl  only 
li\  liis  wile's  brother,  who  had  assisted  him  on  the  journey.  His  sad  st(»iy 
tu  the  doctor  soon  told  all.  They  had  rounded  Capo  Alexander,  and, 
without  halting,  had  reached  Sunderland  Island,  made  their  own  snow- 
hut,  ac  Sorfalik,  and  proceeded  ou  their  way  to  Northumberland  Island; 
liiit  there  the  Astronomer,  growing  a  little  chilled,  sprang  off  the  sledge, 
;iii(l  ran  ahead  to  warm  himself  by  exercise,  when  suddenly  Hans  saw 
him  siidving  througli  the  thin  ice  upon  which  he  had  come,  which 
(ovcrcd  :i  recently  opened  tide-track.  He  drew  him  out,  but  the  chill 
was  too  severe  for  Mr.  Sonntags  life. 

In  the  "Memoirs  of  H.ms  Hendrik,  translated  from  the  Eskimo  by 
Dr.  Rink,  Director  of  the  Greenland  Board  of  Trade,"  Hans  gives  his 
nwii  moi'c  full  account  of  this  calamity:  — 

•'In  winter,  just  before  Christmas,  the  Astronomer  and  1  undertook 
a  .lomiiey  by  sledge  to  look  for  natives.  We  crossed  [passed  by?]  the 
Liri  at  glacier,  and  travelled  the  whole  day  [of  course  only  twilight, 
thcie  being  continual  night]  without  meeting  with  any  people.  A 
string  wind  sprang  up  from  the  north,  and  caused  a  thi(tk  drifting  of 
siidw,  while  we  mad6  our  snow-hut  and  went  to  sleep.  On  wakening 
(he  ii('.\t  day.  it  still  bUnv  a  gale  and  the  snow  drifting  dreadfully,  for 


j 

tP^n^MI 

1  5  ;■  j    ^r  PI 

Ml     5 

I  ;: 


i         I 
'1         1 


.r  :i. 


j{* 


140 


AMERIPAN    EXPLOItATIONS    IN    THK    ICK   ZONES. 


■which  reason  we  resolved  to  return.  While  we  proceeded  homewiuds 
the  ice  began  breaking  uj) ;  so  we  were  forced  to  go  ashore  and  con- 
tinue our  drive  over  the  beach-ice  [ice-foot].  We  arrived  at  a  small 
firth  and  crossed  it,  but,  on  trying  to  proceed  by  land  on  the  otlu  r 
side,  it  proved  impassable,  and  we  were  obliged  to  return  to  the  \rv 
again.  On  descending  here  my  companion  fell  through  the  ice,  whicli 
was  nothing  but  a  tliick  sheet  of  snow  and  water.  I  stoojjcd,  but  was 
unable  to  seize  him,  it  being  very  low  tide.  As  a  last  resort,  I  remem- 
bered a  strap  hanging  on  the  sledge-})oles  ;  this  I  threw  to  him,  and 
when  he  had  tied  it  around  his  body  I  pulled,  but  found  it  very  dilli- 
cult.  At  length  I  succeeded  in  pulling  him  up.  but  he  was  at  tli. 
point  of  freezi  g  to  death  ;  and  now  in  the  storm  and  drifting  snow  lie 
took  off  his  clothes  and  slipped  into  the  sleeping-bag,  wIu'reuj)on  I 
placed  him  upon  the  sledge,  and  repaired  to  our  last  resting-[)lace. 

"Our  road  ueing  very  rough,  I  cried  from  despair  for  want  of  licln  : 
but  I  r'^ached  the  snoAV-hut,  and  brought  him  inside.  I  was,  however, 
iniable  to  kindle  a  fire,  and  was  myself  overpowered  with  cold.  My 
comjjanion  grew  still  worse,  although  ])laced  in  the  bearskin  bag,  Imi 
with  nothing  else  than  his  shirt.  Hy-and-by  liis  breathing  gicw 
scarcer,  and  I  ioo  began  to  feel  extremely  cold,  on  account  of  now 
standing  still,  after  having  perspired  with  exertion.  During  the  wlmle 
night  my  friend  still  breathed,  but  he  drew  his  breath  at  long  intervals. 
and  towards  morning  only  very  rarely."  .  .  . 

After  detailing  his  own  severe  sufferings,  and  his  return  to  tlie  brii;-. 
and  the  assistance  given  him  on  the  way  by  some  friends  and  relatives. 
Hans  continues:  — 

"On  my  arrival  I  found  my  dear  wife  tolerably  well ;  but  I  could 
not  be  lia[»py,  since  I  left  that  friend  of  mine  who  had  loved  me* so 
kindly,  and  who  also,  some  winters  before,  when  we  spent  three  yeais 
together,  had  treated  me  with  such  goodness.  Our  (^ommander  Ese, 
[Hayes]  was  gladdened  by  my  arrival,  as  he  had  believed  me  to  l)e 
lost.  He  inquired  where  I  had  left  my  friend.  I  replied,  'On  leaving- 
him  I  covered  him  entirely  Avith  snow;  now  I  will  soon  go  to  fetch  his 
corpse.'  But  he  said,  'When  the  days  grow  longer  thou  may'st  go  lor 
it;  but  now  first  try  to  get  some  reindeer;  we  are  longing  for  reindeer 
meat." 


i 


HANS     MKMOIHS   OF    HIMSELF. 


141 


'•  I  then  remained  several  days  to  await  a  brigliter  season.  The  first 
(lav  I  went  out  shooting  I  got  a  large  rein-buck.  Afterwards  I  hunted 
cu'iy  day,  sometimes  bringing  home  two  deer,  sometimes  three.  At 
last,  when  bright  sunshine  had  begun,  a  sledge  arrived,  which  was 
I'l Imaged  to  accompany  me.  We  also  got  the  ship's  mate  for  our  com- 
liaiiioM.  When  we  arrived  we  dug  among  the  snow,  and  brought  forth 
the  (lead  man,  still  enveloped  in  his  bag.  I  feared  the  foxes  might 
liave  eaten  the  body,  but  even  the  bag  was  quite  untouched.  We 
deposited  him  in  my  sledge,  the  mate  folh)\ved  with  my  comrade, 
and  wo  came  back  to  the  ship  in  the  evening.  They  brought  the 
corpse  into  the  Captain's  cabin  for  him  to  thaw.  The  next  day,  wiien 
I  saw  our  Commander,  he  said,  '  I  thank  thee  for  thy  liaving  taken 
care  (d   linn.      * 

The  simplicity  of  the  narrative  of  Hans,  shown  throughout  his 
wliole  story  of  the  four  Expeditions  in  which  he  was  engaged,  seems 
I'ully  to  justify  tlie  conclusions  at  which  Dr.  Hayes,  after  much  anxiety, 
arrived,  as  to  the  fidelity  of  the  native  in  this  matter.  At  iirst  there 
sctMued  ground  for  the  suspicion  that  the  object  of  the  i)ro])osition 
w  lien  it  came  from  Hans,  to  visit  the  Cape,  was  in  reality  to  visit  his 
ichitives  there,  and  bring  them  up  to  be  near  him  ;  for  now  three  of 
iluMu  were  on  board  ship.     Nor  was  it  at  all  satisi'actory  to  have  had  no 


*  raptaiii  Nares  says  of  Hans,  wlicu  employed  by  him,  "  He  provetl  to  be  an  admirable 
liiintcr  and  an  excellent  doj^-driver.  When  a  lad  of  nineteen  years  (in  IS.");])  he  joined 
Dr.  Kane's  e.vpedition.  After  rendering  invaluable  services  to  his  eonipanions  during 
their  two  winters'  stay  at  Rensselaer  Harbor,  Sniitli  Sound,  he  married  Merkat,  the 
(lauiilitor  of  Shangliu,  one  of  the  '  Aretie  Highlanders,'  who  tended  him  while  lying  sick 
at  llartstene  IJay.  He  remained  behind  with  his  wife  when  Dr.  Kane  abandoned  his 
ves.'^cl  and  travelled  south  to  Upernavik  in  boats. 

"  In  1800,  after  he  had  passed  five  years  with  the  'Arctic  Highlanders,'  Dr.  Hayes,  find- 
in;^  Hans  at  Cape  York,  took  him  and  wife  and  child  on  board  his  vessel,  the  '  United 
States.'  On  the  homeward  voyage,  in  1801,  he  was  landed,  with  his  belongings,  at  llper- 
iKivik.  In  1871  he  joined  Ciiptain  Hall,  in  the  'Polaris,'  taking  his  wife  and  three  chil- 
(hcn  with  him.  He  was  one  of  the  party  who  was  separated  from  th(>  '  Polaris'  in  'i  gale 
of  wind,  and  drifteil  during  the  long  winter  of  1872-7;}  from  .Smith  Sound  to  the  south- 
w;inl  of  Hudson's  Straits.  During  this  time  he  and  Joe  —  another  Eskimo  —  preserved 
the  lives  of  their  companions  by  their  indefatigable  and  noble  exertions  in  hunting  and 
Iifocnring  seals." 

"  Hans'  Memoirs,"  translated  by  Dr.  Piink,  and  edited  by  Dr.  Stevens,  is  a  cm-ious  pro- 
diK'tion,  interesting  by  its  simple  native  expressions,  some  of  which  could  not  bear  precise 
tr;iiis!atloii.     The  visit  to  New  York  and  Washington  will  anmse  the  reader. 


l:'M 


-ni 


if 


14  J 


.MKl;l<AN    FAI'LOItATIoNS    IN     IIIK    ICK    XoNK 


'!  1 


iiiii' 


iiicss;i!4C  I'ldiii  the  Ast idiioiiicr,  or  t(i  think  tli;il  lie  Wdiild  have  travelled 
live  iiiilfs  ill  wet  ddlliiiii;.  especially  as  lie  was  acc(iiii])airK'<l  by  one  w  Ik. 
was  'aiiiiliar  w  it  li  |irii\  isioii  lor  such  iieccssil  ics.  and  who  cdiihl  lia\i 
made  him  iniinediati'ly  cunilnrtaltle  in  the  slee|iiiin-l)an'  iinlil  he  hail 
drietl  ihe  clothiiiL;'.  \'el.as  \\;\u<  constantly  repeatt'd  ideiilieally  t Ik 
same  slory  in  a  straight  rorwaiMJ  way,  and  as  it  was  at  all  times  i'or  hi^ 
own  inierest  to  lie  t'ailhl'nl  to  the  one  who,  oi'  all  on  the  slii]),  was  his 
hesl  IVieiid,  Di'.  Hayes  settled  into  the  assiiraiici'  that  it  was  a  triic 
account  which  had  heeii  m'iveii,  and  that  it  would  he  iinre.isoiiahle,  as 
well  as  unjust,  to  siis|)ect   Hans  of  desertion. 

Ill  the  middle   of  the   month   lollowint;',  when   the  season   j)erniittei| 
it,  the  hodv  was  recovered  l>v  the  assistance   of  Mate   Henrv   Dodiic;  oT 


th 


le  ship,  who  went  down  to  .SorialiK  with  two  doy'-leanis,  one  driven 
hy  Hans  and  one  hy  a  native  who  liad  come  into  the  shij).  Ilaiis 
without  (lifliculty  recoo-nized  the  locality  by  a  rock  lu'ar  hy,  but  the 
remains  were  disinterred  with  extreme  labor,  the  winds  haviiii;-  piled 
up  the  snow  to  the  complete  buriid  of  the  hut.  'I'lie  tlieriiioiiietcr 
stood  at  I'oiiv  desi'rees  below  zero. 

i\[r.  Soiiiitan'*s  body  was  placed  'v\  the  Observatory,  'mvIkm'c  his  tine 
mind  had  been  intent,  a  lew  weeks  btd'ore,  on  [iiirsnits  tlie  dcdij^ht  of 
his  life, '"  until  a  j^rave  was  dug  ill  the  iVo/.en  lerrat'c:  then  the  burial 
service  was  read,  and  al'terward  a  neat   mouml  raised,  with  a  chiselled 


inscription 


Al(;isr    SOXNTAG. 

J)ii:i),  l)i:(  HMiiiaj  i-'S,  1808, 

Aufd  "JS  vciirs. 


A  cr(jss  surmounted  the  monument. 


!i! ; 


The  ex[iericace  of  the  weary  Arctic  night  of  months,  in  place  o\' 
the  days  which  the  inhal)ilaiit  of  happier  (dimes  enjoys,  has  been  spread 

*  la  llic  vt'slil)uU'  of  the  Diulli'v  (Hisci-vMidry,  Alliaiiy,  liaiiu's  ii  iKirtriiit,  (if  llic  ymiim 
astrniioiiicr.  I'ndcr  it,  arc  the  sad  words,  "  rcrishcil  in  llic  ici;  at  I'ort,  Foullic,  iatitiiilr 
78M7'  14"  X.,  t)ciHMiilicr-_'S.  ISC.O."  On  llic  faded  T'liiti'd  States  lla;;-  drajied  aliove  tlie 
vouiiij;  iiian's  lu'ad  are  llie  Wdids.  •■  l-'ruiii  his  class  in   Alliaiiv    Female   Acadeinv,  .June, 


I  S(  ;().■■      .M; 


I>r.  !■: 


Mill    licssels 


and  .Mr.  I!.  W.  D.  IJrvan,  of  the  I'.  S.  S.  "  I'uhiris 


wlie/i  visiting;  I'ort  Foiilke.  found  the  Astroiicnicr's  t,'ravc  despoiled  liy  the  t'skimos,  fm' 
the  sakf  of  tli(>  wood  of  liis  cofliii.  The  travellers  reiikieed  th(3  reniaius,  relilled  th(!  grave. 
and  reset    the  hiadslmiL'. 


IJ 


1  ; 

:  i! 

1 

:      1- 

i 

I  i 


■I 


I  I 


144 


AMEUICAN    KXPLOUATIONS    IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


II 


V  the  records  of  all  Arctic  explorers;  and  the  wonderful  power  of 
al  adaptation  in  luau  to  the  slrange  circiunstances  in  which  he 
ilnds  himself  when  in  the  new  regions  of  darkness  —  the  peculiar  scii- 
tinients  which  such  changed  relations  inspire  —  ai<5  most  forcibly  and 
happily  expressed  in  the  volume  from  which  most  of  the  precedimr 
narrative  is  drvwn.  A  citation  from  Hayes'  cournal  will  be  api)ro- 
ciated:  "January  10,  18(il.  Our  eyes  now  turn  wistfully  to  the  Soutli. 
eagerly  watching  for  the  ti[)  of  Aurora's  chariot,  as  the  fair  goddess  of 
the  morning  rises  from  the  sea  to  drop  a  ray  of  gladness  from  her  rosy 
tinj.  ris  int(/  Lhis  long-neglected  world.  It  is  almtjst  a  month  .;ince  we 
passed  the  darkest  day  of  winter,  and  it  v»ill  be  a  long  time  yet  bel'mv 
we  have  light;  lat  it  is  time  for  us  now  to  have  at  noontime  a  faint 
flush  upon  the  horizon.  A  faint  Lwilight  tiush  mounting  the  southern 
sky  to-day  at  the  nuM-idiau  hour,  though  barely  ^xMccptible,  was  a 
cheering  sight  to  all.  We  feel  that  the  veil  of  night  is  lifting,  thai  tlic 
cloud  is  passing  away,  that  the  load  cf  darkness  is  being  lightened.  .  .  . 
"The  people  liavi;  exliausted  their  means  of  am.isement;  we  long 
for  the  day  and  for  Avork.  Talk  as  you  will  of  piuck  and  of  manly 
amusement,  this  Arctic  night  is  a  severe  ordeal.  It  is  a  severe  trial  to 
the  moral  auf"-  the  hitellectual  faculties.  The  cliec^'ing  influences  sif 
the  rising  sun,  which  invite  to  labor;  the  soothing  influences  of  tlic 
<!vening  twilight,  which  invite  to  repose ;  the  change  from  day  to  niglit 
and  from  night  to  day,  which  ligiitens  the  burden  to  the  weary  mind 
and  the  aching  body,  is  withdrawn ;  and,  in  the  constant  longing  tor 
light,  light,  the  mind  and  body,  weary  with  the  changeless  progress 
of  the  time,  fail  to  find  repose  where  all  is  rest.  The  grandeur  of 
Nature  ceases  to  give  delight  to  the  dull  sympathies;  the  heart  Ionics 
for  new  associations,  new  objects,  and  new  companionships;  l.ie  dark 
and  drearj'"  solitude  oppresses  the  understanding;  the  desolation  wliiili 
reigns  everywhere  haunts  the  imagination;  the  silence  —  dark,  dreaiy. 
and  profound  —  becomes  a  terror.  I  havj  gone  out  into  the  Antic 
night,  and  viewed  Nature  in  her  varied  aspects.  I  have  rejoiced  with 
her  in  her  strengtli,  and  communed  with  her  in  repose.  I  have  valkcd 
abroad  in  the  darkness,  when  the  winds  were  roaring  thrr  ugh  the  hills 
and  crashing  over  the  plains.     I  have  wandered  far  out  in  upon  the 


THK    AlUTIC    NKillT,  14"> 

I'ln/.fii  son,  and  listened  to  tlif  voice  of  tlu;  icebergs,  bcwailinpf  their 
iiii|,ris(»nnient ;  along  the  glacier,  where  forms  and  falls  the  avalanclie  ; 
ii|,  nil  the  hill-top,  where  the  drifting  snow,  coursing  its  M'ay  over  the 
Micks.  >^i\ng  its  plaintive  song;  and  again  I  have  wandered  away  to  the 
,li.>i;iiir  valley,  where  all  these  sounds  were  hushed,  and  the  air  was 
...lill  and  solemn  as  the  tomb. 

"And  here  it  is  that  the  true  spirit  of  the  Arctic  night  is  revealed, 
w  hcic  its  v.'onders  are  unloosed,  to  sport  and  play  with  the  mind's  vain 
iiiia"inings.     The  heavens  above  and  the  earth  beneath  reveal  only  an 
tiidk'ss    and  fathondess  quid,    there   is  nowhere  evidence  of  life  or 
iiKttion;  1  stand  alone  amidst  the  mighty  hills  ;  their  tall  crests  clind) 
ii|i\\ard,  and  are  lost  in  the  gra}^  vault  of  the  skies,  their  dark  cliffs, 
standing  against  their  sloi)cs  of  white,  are  the  steps  of  a  vast  amphi- 
theatre.    The  mind,  finding  no  rest  on  their  bald  summits,  wanders 
nitd  si)ace;  the  moon,  weary  with  long  vigil,  sinks  to  her  repose:  tiie 
IMeiades   no    longer   breathe    their   sweet   inlluencciij    Cassiopeia    and 
Andromeda  and  Orion,  and  all  the  inliiute   host  of  the  unnuml)ered 
constellations,  fail  to  infuse  one  spark  of  joy  into  tliis  dead  atmosphere  ; 
they  have  lost  all  their  tenderness,  and  are  cold  and  pulseless.     The 
eye  leaves  them  and  returns  to  earth,  and  the  trembling  ear  awaits 
something  that  will  break  the  oppressive  stillness.     But  no  footfall  of 
living   thing   reaches   it,  no   wild  beast  howls  through   the  solitude. 
There  is  no  cry  of  bird  to  enliven  the  scene;  no  tree  among  whose 
hranches  the  winds  can  sigh  and  moan.     The  pulsations  of  my  own 
heart  are  alone  heard  in   the   great  void;  and,  as  the  blocd  courses 
through  the  sensitive  organization  of  the  ear,  I  am  oppressed  as  with 
discordant  sounds.     Silence  has  ceased  to  be  negative ;  it  has  become 
endowed  with  positive  attributes.     I  seem  to  hear  and  see  and  feel  it. 
!l  stands  forth  as  a  frightful  spectre,  tilling  the  mind  with  the  over 
i>owering  consciousness  of  univers-j  death,  —  proclaiming  the  end  of 
all  tluiigft  iuid  heralding  the  everlasting  future.     Its  presence  is  unen- 
durable.    I  spring  from  the  rock  upon  which  I  have  been  seated ;  I 
plant  my  feet  heavily  in  the  snow,  to  banish  its  awful  presence,  and 
the  sound  rolls  through  the  night  and  drives  away  the  phantom. 

"  I  have  seen  no  expression  on  the  face  of  Nature  so  filled  Avith 
terror  as  thk  Silence  op  the  Arctic  Night." 


1:; 


ii) 


iil 


a    = 

V3       ^ 


•J3      - 


I:;    the 

IllllliliiT  III 

4tli  -f  Ap 

('(|iii{iiiieiit 
jiici\  i.-iuiis 
I'liiiricL'ii  (I 
til  ilir  L-asI 
(Miir  "f  ice 
iiiipnssible 
ul'  jiiisliiiig 
]i;ill\.  wiii 
Hill  with  t 
IdWid  liy  h 
tiiiif.  riitei'i 

11    [inilit    toi 

shnic,     lie 

aliM'iKe  of 

fniiitceii  hi 

iiiiiiii'  (if  Cii 

Fniiikliii  B 

\V:l-  >f(Mi,  t( 

( )ii  Cajx 

l.^til.  he   u: 

cariit'd  in  i 

ll:iv('ii  and 

IiiiIl^'cs  in  X 

-Mr.   Suimta 

•  iliii'^ation  t 

11  i^  icroi'd  ( 

I^'Tf    i'oulk( 

;:lass  vial  1) 

rii''  stay 
M;i\.  a  pen-io 


FfAVKS     IIKiUKST    POINT. 


147 


III  the  early  Sitriiig-  tho  Kskiim  s  iciilenished  the  dog-teams  to  the 
iiuiiilM-r  of  twenty.  Several,  howevei-,  died  as  bet'oi-e.  With  the  rest  a 
liin\  i>ioii  dei»ut  for  the  Summer  use  was  soon  estalilished,  and  on  the 
4tli  it  April,  1801,  Hayes,  with  twelve  ollieers  and  men,  started  out  on 
|ii>  pihicipal  and  long  and  still-eherished  journey  to  the  North.  His 
(■i|iii|iiiient  consisted  of  a  metallic  life-boat,  mounted  on  runners,  with 
|)in\i>ions  for  seven  persons  f(,r  five  months,  and  for  six  [)ersons  and 
1(1111  iriii  dogs  for  six  weeks.  He  was,  however,  again  compelled  to  keep 
t,i  till'  L-astern  shore,  and,  consequently,  encountered  the  same  experi- 
eiHv  of  ice-hummoeks  with  which  Kane  had  met;  and  finally  finding  it 
iiiijKKsible  to  transport  the  boat  brought  out  in  the  fond  antiei[)ation 
ol'  iiiishing  it  out  on  the  Polar  waters,  he  sent  it  back  with  the  main 
pariv.  while  he  continued  the  journey  with  two  companions  only. 
liui  w  ith  these  he  reached  the  west  coast  by  nearly  the  same  track  fol- 
li.ui  il  hy  him  in  1854,  corrected  some  errors  of  the  chart  made  at  that 
tiuir.  entered  Kennedy  Channel,  and  on  the  16th  of  the  month  attained 
a  }iiiiiit  forty  miles  further  north  than  Kane's  highest  on  the  opposite 
sIkuc.  Returning  in  the  same  track,  he  reached  his  vessel  after  an 
aliMiKu  of  iiftv-nine  days,  and  a  journey  of  comings  and  goings  of 
fduitceu  hundred  miles.  To  the  highest  point  reached  he  gave  the 
iiaiur  of  Cape  Lieber.  To  the  north  lay  the  excellent  bay  named  Lady 
Franklin  Bay.  In  the  far  distance,  north  of  Cape  Beechey,  a  headland 
wa>  -cell,  to  Avhich  he  gave  the  name  of  Cape  Union. 

Ou  (.'ai)e  Lieber,  latitude  81^  35'  N.,  longitude  TO''  30'  W.,  May  18, 
Isill.  he  unfurled  the  United  States  boat's  ensign  which  had  been 
oanit'd  in  the  Antarctic  Expedition  of  Wilkes,  and  in  those  of  De 
llavtii  and  Kane,  with  several  other  flags  intrusted  to  him  by  Masonic 
1( lilacs  ill  Xew  York  and  Boston,  and  one  presented  to  the  lamented 
^h.  Sduntag  by  the  ladies  of  the  Albany  Academy,  being  "under 
(iMi.:aiinii  to  unfurl  all  these  at  the  most  northern  point  attained." 
Hi-  record  of  the  visit,  recounting  his  journey  of  forty-six  days  from 
Vnn  Foulke,  with  his  companion,  Mr.  Knorr,  Avas  deposited  within  a 
<;'lass  vial  beneath  a  cairn. 

riic  stay  in  Kennedy  Channel   was  from   the   12th   to  the  23d  of 
Ma\.  a  pwiod  of  the  year  six  weeks  earlier  than  the  time  when  Morton 


H 


h't 


rn^ 


!ii 


I 
(Ems 


14H 


AMKItUAN    I:X1M.<H:ATI<>NS    in    TMK    ICK    ZONKS, 


rcportcil  lo  Kline  an  ii|i('ii  sea  in  this  cliiinncl  and  imrtli  of  it.  l)r. 
ilaycs  (lid  not  lind  dpcii  water,  l)iit  niiieli  deeaye(l  and  thin  iee.  and  ih 
f«ime  [liaees  piMtls  ol'  water;  in  iiiie,  a  llo(i<  (if  wateilowl,  —  the  /  . /./ 
(h'i)lltii\  Dovekies.  He  (»hserve(l  sdiiie  indications  of  "the  reyinn  in 
^ii((  northward  heing  annually  o|)ened."  'I'lie  coast  on  the  west  >idc  ni 
''ieiuiedy  Channel,  esjiecially  where  e\|Mised  to  tho  northeast,  was  iIih  i| 
with  ii  heavy  ridi^e  (d'  ice,  which  had  been  t'orced  up  under  the  inllu- 
eiice  id'  L;'reat  [iressiire.      Many  of  the  masses  wore  as  niiicli  as  >i\i\ 


••L'NFlltLINO   'IIIK   I'-i-AOS.' 

feet  in  iieioht,  anil  they  were  lyiuti'  iiio'li  and  dry  upon  the  l)eacli.  'I1i.' 
pressure  necessary  to  occasion  this  result  could  not  possibly  be  creatCMJ. 
lie  thought,  by  ice-fields  moving'  over  a  narrow  channel,  and  he  lielieviMJ 
the  result  to  liave  been  produced  by  ice-fields  of  great  extent  coihIiil; 
down  under  the  influence  of  winds  and  tlie  current  from  a  vast  o|'ii: 
area  to  the  northward.  As  during  his  vo5'age  with  Kane,  and  afrci- 
ward  upon  this  exploration,  as  well  as  tlirough  the  rest  of  his  life.  In' 
remained  the  steadfast  advocate  of  tlie  existence  of  '"tliis  Open  Pohir 
Sea,"  entitling  tlius  tlie  volume  in  wlii(di  lie  gave  to  the  world  tin- 
account   of   this   vovagc    of    18G0;    fre(iuentlv,   also,   bv   lectures  ainl 


HAVKSON    AN    Ol'KN    TOLAU   SKA. 


14U 


MlH't'lt' 


clico     . 


tliiMii^li  tli«3  press,  ui»li(»ltliiij;  tluj  theory,  it  will  not  he  out  of  |pliice  to 
iiirifilil  him  iimic  i'wWy  with  his  iirn'miients  in  his  own  laiij^nii^t'.  His 
couvii'lioiis  will  \h^  i'()iiij»iU('(l  hy  tlu;  rriider  with  tho  experi- 
iikI  views  <»!'  hiter  ex]>lori?rs,  t'Spi'cially  those  of  Hall  ami 
r.iidiiii^ton,  of  the  "Polaris,"  and  of  ('ai)tain  Nun^s,  of  tlu*  Knj^lish 
li\|iiMlition  (»f  IhTA,  to  which  a  fuller  reference  is  invited. 

Ill  ('lia|i.  XWII.  of  the  volume  just  cited,  after  rcfci'rim;'  the  reader 
I,,  liic  ilircc  hi'caks  iu  t!'.e  lout;'  line  of  Northern  coast  through  which 
ih,    wains    of   the    Atlantic   and    I'acilic   Oceans  enter   the   Northern 

If  oiu'  trail's  the  currents  on   the  map,  and 


li;i>lii, 


Dr.   llav 


cs  savs 


()     ()\\S 


the   (Julf   Stream   as  it   Hows   northward,   [)ourin<f  tl 


le   warm 


\;ii(r>  of  the  Tro[)ic  Zone  through  the  broad  gateway  east  of  Spitz- 
II  ri>cn.  and  forcing  out  a  return  current  of  cold  waters  to  the  west  of 
^liii/lx  rgen  and  through  Davis  Strait,  he  will  very  readily  comprehend 


\Mi 


\.  in  this  incessant  displacement  of  the  waters  of  the  i'ole  by  the 
w, Iters  of  the  Equator,  the  great  biuly  of  the  former  is  never  chilled  to 
witliiii  several  degrees  of  the  iVee/iiig  point  ;  and  since  it  is  |)robably 
I-  dee]),  as  it  is  almost  as  broad,  as  the  Atlantic  between  iMiropo  and 
Ameiica,  he  will  be  prepared  to  understand  that  this  vast  b(»dy  of 
w.iter  tempers  the  whole  region  with  a  warmth  above  that  "wliich  is 
lihriw  iM'  natural  to  it;  and  that  the  Almighty  hand,  in  the  all-wise 
ili>|iensation  ol"  His  ])ower,  has  thus  placed  a   bar  to  its  congelation: 

I  lie  will  read  in  this  another  symbol  of  Nature's  great  hiw  of  circn- 
lioii.  whicli,  giving  water  to  the  parcliv:!d  earth  and  moisture  to  the 
moderates  as  well  the  temperature  of  the  Zones  —  cooling  the 
ie  with  a  current  of  water  from  the  Frigid,  and  warming  the 
I'ligid  with  a  imrrent  from  the  Tropic." 

•'  bearing  these  facts  in  mind,  the  reader  will  perceive  that  it  is  tlie 

liire  water  only  which  ever  reaches  so  low  a  temperature  that  it  is 


Jill 


;iil', 


I'liii 


-111 


I  ii;iiiged  to  ice;  and  he  will  also  perceive  that  when  the  wind  'moves 
tlic  smlace  water,  the  jjarticles  which  have  becon.e  chilled  by  contact 
witli  the  air  mingle  in  the  rolling  waves  with  the  warm  waters  beneath. 
iiml  lieiice  that  ice  can  ./idy  form  iu  sheltered  ])laces,  or  where  the 
vater  of  souu'  bay  is  so  shoal,  and  the  current  so  slack,  that  it  becomes 
"hilled  to  the  vcrv  bottom,  or  where  the  air  over  the  sea  is  uniforndy 


) 

1 

1 

'!! 


ill 


I    i; 


!f 


t     ( 


4 


•Mi 


m 


1  ' 


150 


AMKHICAN    KXPLOItATIONS    IN    THE    ICK   ZONES. 


calm.  He  will  remeiubor,  however,  that  the  winds  blow  as  ticicclv 
over  the  Polar  Sea  as  in  any  other  quarter  ot"  the  world;  and  he  will. 
therefore,  have  no  ditheulty  in  coraprehendino-  that  the  Polar  ice  ((ivns 
but  a  small  part  of  the  Polar  water;  and  that  it  exists  only  wlieiv  n  is 
nursed  and  protected  by  the  land.  It  clings  to  the  coasts  of  Siberia. 
and  springing  thence  across  Behring  Strait  to  America,  it  hugs  di,. 
American  shore,  fills  the  narrow  channels  which  drain  the  Pujar 
waters  into  Baffin  Bay  through  the  Parry  Archipelago ;  crosses  thciuc 
to  Greenland,  from  Greenland  to  S[)itzbergen,  and  from  Spitsbergen  td 
Nova  Zembla,  —  thus  investing  the  Pole  in  an  uninterrupted  land- 
clinging  belt  of  ice,  more  or  les«  broken,  as  well  in  Winter  as  in  Sum- 
mer, and  the  fragments  ever  inoving  to  and  fro,  though  never  widelv 
separating,  forming  a  barrier  against  which  all  the  arts  and  en.'rgies  df 
man  have  not  hitherto  prevailed.'  .  .  . 

"With  the  warm  flood  of  the  Gulf  Stream  pouring  northward,  iind 
keeping  the  waters  of  the  Polar  Sea  at  a  tem[)erature  alxixc  ilie 
freezing  }»oiut,  Avhile  the  winds,  blowing  as  constantl}'  luider  ihc 
Arctic  as  under  the  Tropic  sky,  and  the  eeascless  curri-nts  of  the  >,.;! 
and  the  (ide-llow  of  the  surface  kee[)  the  waters  ever  in  I'loveuieni.  ii 
is  not  p()ssi])le  that  even  any  considerabU'  [xjrtion  (d'  this  extensive  -la 
can  be  frozen  over.  At  no  point  within  the  .Vrctie  Circle  lias  iluic 
been  found  an  ice-belt  extending,  either  in  Winter  or  in  Sunnner.  niniv 
than  from  fifty  to  a  hundred  miles  from  land.  And  even  in  the  nar- 
row channels  sej)arating  the  islands  of  tlu;  Parry  Arehiiiela^o.  m 
Baffin  Bay  in  the  North  Water,  and  the  mouth  of  Smith  Siuind.  — 
everywhere  \\ithin  the  broad  area  of  the  Frigid  Zone,  the  watei>  will 
not  freeze  except  when  sheltered  by  the  land,  or  when  an  ire-|iai'K. 
accumulated  by  a  long  continuance  of  A\inds  from  oui;  ([uarter.  iill'"'!- 
the  same  protection.  'I'hat  the  sea  does  not  close  except  when  ai  i'>i. 
I  had  abuiulant  reason  to  know  during  the  late  winter:  Inr  at  aii 
times.  e\('n  when  the  temperature  of  liic  air  was  below  the  iVei/ui:; 
point  (d"  mei'curv.  I  I'ould  hear  from  the  deck  of  the  schooner  the  real 
of  the  beating  waves." 

Influenced  'hielly  by  such  indications  as  these,  additioiialh  i" 
his  strong   conlidenee   in   the   extent  of  the  open   watci'  repeated   li\ 


.^^ 


NARKS   OX    AN    OPEN    POLAK    SEA. 


l.')! 


'l! 


Mmton,  and  by  the  observ.itions  made  by  more  than  one  Exph)rer  of 
the  migrations  of  animal  life  Northward,  Dr.  Hayes  felt  himself  justi- 
ticd  ill  affirming  that  an  open  sea  exists,  and  that  both  it  and  the 
N'.rtli  Pole  may  be  reached  with  steam  vessels  by  pushing  through  the 
ii(-l)('lt,  either  through  Smith's  Sound,  or  by  a  I'oute  west  and  north  of 
Sjiitzbcrgen.  In  this  conviction,  he  entertained,  after  his  return,  the 
hdpo  of  going  back  in  the  early  part  of  the  following  Spring,  and 
roacliing  the  Open  Sea,  if  not  in  one  season,  in  the  next.  His  j)lans 
for  this,  however,  were  suspended  instantly  on  his  landing  at  Boston, 
1)\  the  news  of  the  existing  conflict  against  the  Government,  to  which 
he  iiiuiiediately  offered  his  services  and  his  shii). 

It  will  not  be  out  of  i)lace  here,  Avhile  according  the  highest  esti- 
mate of  Dr.  Hayes'  ability  and  of  his  reasonings  and  convictions,  to 
hring  beside  this  nnich-discussed  question  of  the  Open  Sea,  the  consid- 
eration which  it  has  received  by  two  of  the  later  explorers,  Nart'S  and 
Koldwey.  The  exjjerience  of  the  "  Polaris,"'  under  Ca^jtain  Hall,  will 
lie  stated  in  the  notice  of  that  American  Exploration. 

In  tlu^  Introduction  to  the  "Narrative  of  the  ICnglish  Expedition  of 
1X7-"),"  under  Captain  Nares,  Captain  Richards,  Ilydrographer  to  the 
.\(hniralty,  says:  "The  latter-day  theory  of  an  o^jcu  Polar  Sea  I'ests  on 
III)  l'!)undation,  practical  or  philoso})lii('al.  Even  if  it  could  l)e  sliown 
that  ii  somewhat-higher  mean  temperatui'o  is  theoretically  due  in  that 
;ircii  where  the  sun  is  for  six  consecutive  months  above  the  horizon, 
;iii(l  for  a  similar  periotl  Ix'low  it,  this  W(»uld  avail  nothing;  for  the 
ilissohition  of  the  Winter's  ice  is  not  (h'[)en(U'nt  on  tlie  iniluence  of  the 
Siiiiinier's  heat  alone;  otherwise  the  diflicnlties  of  Arctic  navigation 
wiHihl  (lisai)pear,  at  any  rate  for  some  sliort  period,  during  every  season. 

"A  variety  of  other  ehMiients  ;ire  e([ually  as  important.  Chief 
aiiKUig  them  is  tlie  action  of  ilie  winds  and  ti(h'S  to  break  up  tiio 
ilccaying  lloes.  l)ut  ]»in'amount  almve  all  others  is  the  iiei;essity  for  sufli- 
cieiit  outlets  for  the  eseajte  of  the  ice  so  broken  up  throughout  tlie 
vast  area  of  tlie  Polar  basin.  These  outlets  we  know  do  not  exist  :  an 
iiisignilicant  jioint  of  land,  moreoNcr.  w  ill  act  as  a  \\C(lge,  or  the  preva- 
lence of  an  unfavorable  Avind  for  a  few  days  at  the  critical  period  will 
>iiriici'    to    decide    the   (|Uestioii    whetlu'r    such    inlets,   so    impoftaiit    as 


,.'ti[J 


'ii 


■i^ij 


V  i 
li    * 


II      \i 


■.i'L.   ;, 


llf 


i  I 


lAli 


AMEItlCAX    EXPLORATIONS    IN    TMF.    KJH   ZONKS. 


W't'lliiii^toii  Cliiuiiicl  or  Smith  Soniid,  will  he  closed  or  opoii  <lurin^'  a 
sciisdii.  From  a  sliij)'s  masthead  or  a  moniitai?i-summit  the  visible 
hoi'i/oii  is  liiiiitcfl  by  the  curvature  of  the  earth,  and  tiiose  Avho  ha\i' 
uavi'H'atcd  in  thi'se  ren'ions  will  well  remeiid)er  how  one  short  hour  has 
carried  them  iVom  an  apparently  open  sea  to  a  dead-lock,  with  iin 
streak  of  water  in  sijj^ht.  VV^ater-skies  are  delusive;  an  iusig'uilicani 
crack  oi-  lane  in  the  ice  will  produce  them,  and  the  only  admissible 
evi(h'nce  of  a  Polynia  or  navigable  Polar  basin  must  be  the  fact  that  a 
shi])  has  sailed  through  it." 

Such  a  voyage  may  now  be  assumed  as  impracticable,  and,  in  regard 
to  a  lengthened  journey  over  the  Polar  pack  ice  with  a  sledge  paity 
etjuipjied  with  a  boat  tit  for  navigable  pur])oses,  this  also  is  aflirmed  1)\ 
('a])tain  Nares  on  the  experience  of  Markham,  I'arry,  and  ^.Veypreclii 
to  be  e([ually  impossible  at  any  season  of  the  year. 

There  may  be  further  cited  at  this  jjoint,  in  relation  to  the  problem 
of  the  "OiKMi  St'a,""  th(>  suggestion  of  Captain  Nares,  recorded  in  his 
Journal  of  June  22,  18','():  "It  would  appear  that  the  sun,  miassist(Ml 
by  other  causes,  is,  after  a  cold  winter,  not  sui'liciently  powerful  to 
])ri»(luc(.  a  tliaw  on  a  siu)w-clad  ground  until  it  attains  an  altitmle  (if 
about  30°;  if  this  is  the  ease,  then  at  the  XortI)  ]*ole  it  is  d(ud)triil 
whether  the  snow  ever  becomes  melted;"  antl  fui-ther,  the  opinions  of 
(\il)tain  Feild(Mi.  the  naturalist  of  the  Expedition,  and  his  comrades, 
that  animal  and  vegetable  life  "specifically  and  numerically  nmst  rap- 
idly decrease  with  every  degree  of  northern  latitude  after  passing  the 
eighty-second  parallel."  Captain  Feililen  adds;  "If,  however,  there  ite 
an  extension  of  land  to  tiie  northernmost  part  of  our  globe,  I  see  iio 
icasoii  why  a  few  sp(  eics  of  bii'ds  should  not  resort  there  to  l)rce(l. 
There  would  still  bt-  sufMcit-nt  summer,  if  such  a  term  nuiy  be  used,  fiU' 
the  period  of  incubation  ;  and  from  what  I  have  seen  of  the  transport- 
ing ]iowers  of  the  wind  in  drifting  seeils  over  the  frozen  exjianse  ol' 
the  Polar  Sea.  1  cannot  doubt  that  a  scanty  llora  exists  at  the  Fole 
itself,  if  there  be  any  land  tliiTe,  and  that  the  abundance  of  insect-lilc 
which  exists  as  high  as  the  eighty-third  degree  will  be  i»res(,'nt  at  the 
ninelieth,  suflicient  to  provide  for  a  lew  knots,  sanderling's,  and  turn 
stones."     'I'o   tliis  may  be   added   the  rc'uark   of  Captain    Koldwey,  <if 


GREENLAND  GLACIERS. 


153 


the  Nftrtli  Geniuui  .Vrctii^  Ex[)e(liti(iii  of  18()0-T0,  that  "the  existence 
,,i  ;iii  open  sea  is  founded  on  iippearances  which  prove  nothing  more 
tli;iii  the  fact  of  a  patcli  of  open  water." 

I)i{.    HAYES    ox   THE   GLAClElt    SYSTEM    OF    CniEENLAXD. 

In  ('lia|)ter  XI.  of  his  vohnne,  "Tiie  Open  Pohir  Sea,"  I 'r.  Hayes, 
iilhr  detailing  the  incidents  of  his  visit  to  " My  lirotlier  John's  (ihi- 
cici,""  in  Chester  Valley  (discovered  by  Dr.  Kane,  in  1855,  and  so 
ihiiiifd  ])V  him  from  the  name  of  his  brother,  the  assistant-surgeon  of 
Iliutstene's  expedition),  enters  into  a  general  discussion  of  the  Glacier 
>\si('ni  of  Greenland.  lie  prefaces  the  discussion  by  the  statement 
thai  his  journey  had  been  the  first  successful  attemjjt  till  then  made  to 
|MMictrale  into  the  interior  over  the  Mer  de  Glace,  the  vastness  of 
wliich  inii)resscd  him  still  more  than  on  a  previous  visit.  Ih^.  then 
>a\s:  "(ireenland  may  indeed  be  regarded  as  a  vast  reservoir  of  htr. 
('|iiiii  llic  slo])es  of  its  lofty  hills,  the  downy  sn(jwllake  has  become  the 
liai'dcned  crystal;  and,  increasing  little  by  little  from  year  to  year  and 
111  nil  century  to  c(Mitury,  a  broad  ek»ak  of  frozen  vapor  has  at  length 
ruinpletely  overspread  the  land,  and  along  its  wide  border  there  jiour  a 
ili(iiisaii(l  crystal  streams  into  the  sea.  [Coniirmed  by  Nordenskiold 
ill  188:}.] 

''The  manner  of  the  glacier  growth,  beginning  in  some  remote 
(■|i()('li.  when  Greenland,  nursed  in  warmth  and  sunshine,  was  clothed 
\\  iiii  vegetation,  is  a  sul)ject  of  much  interest  to  the  student  of  i>hysi- 
cal  geography.  The  explanation  of  the  phenomena  is,  iiowever, 
greatly  simplilied  by  the  knowledge  which  various  exi)lorers  have  eon- 
iiiliiitcd  from  the  Alps,  —  a  (juarter  having  all  the  value  of  (lu;  (ireen- 
land  iiioiintains,  as  illustrating  the  laws  which  govern  the  formation 
ami  movements  of  numntain-i  ;e,  and  which  ])ossesses  the  imi)ortant 
advantage  of  greater  accessibility.  ...  It  was  easy  to  ])erceive  in  tlu; 
L^'i.iiid  old  bed  (yf  ice  over  wliich  1  had  travcdled,  those  same  ])hysical 
markings  which  had  arrestecl  the  attention  of  Ajjassiz  and  Forbes  and 
Tviidall.  and  it  was  a  satisfaction  t(t  have  coniirmed  by  actual  ex|»eri- 
iiu'iii  in  the  ii(dd  the  retlcctioiis  of  the  study  —  to  be  able  to  inake  a 
iniiip  irisitn  between  the  Alpine  and  the  Grei'iiland  ice." 


1 

■       1-      ^^ 

i'i 


ii  t 


i . 


'\l  i 


V'r. 


.  •:: 


f!;i    ., 


'\l\ 


i.i  V 


r 

;:  h 

,:, .  ^^ 

h 

, :? 

■'t 

''  '  1 

1      .' 

■ '     '■' 

1              i 

! 

'ii   !N 

m 

ii||i 

* 

154 


A.MKUICAN    KXPLOK  (VTIONS    IN    TFIK    ICK    ZONKS. 


In  drawing  out  this  c'uiui)aris(>n,  Dr.  Hayes  cites  the  (»])ini(tns  of  M. 
Le  Chanoine  liendii,  Bishop  of  Annegy,  wliose  lifetime  had  b(>eii  spent 
among  the  rugged  crags  and  ice-clift's  of  the  Aljjine  mountains,  ainl 
the  results  of  whose  investigations  are  to  be  found  in  the  Memoirs  n\' 
the  Ro3'al  Academy  of  Sciences  of  Savoy.  The  Abbe,  in  his  ossii\. 
"comes  to  the  very  rational  conclusion"  that  the  glacier  and  the  risci 
are  lU  effect  the  same;  that  between  them  there  is  a  resemhlanec  so 
comj)lete  that  it  is  ^'mpossible  to  tind  in  the  latter  a  circinnstiinee  wiiic  h 
does  not  exist  in  the  former;  and  as  the  river  drains  the  irafrrx  whicli 
fall  nj)()n  the  hillsides  to  the  ocean,  so  the  glacier  drains  the  /'•'■  wliidi 
lorms  from  the  snows  on  the  mountain-sides  down  to  the  same  level. 
And  he  closes  his  argument  with  declaring  the  law : — 

"The  conserving  will  of  the  Creator  has  employed  for  the  ]hmiii;i- 
nence  of  Ills  work  the  great  law  of  circulation,  which,  strictly  exaie- 
incd,  is  found  to  reproditce  itself  in  all  parts  of  Nature."  'I'd  wliieh 
citations  Dr.  Hayes  adds:  "A  gl.uMer  is,  in  effcel.  but  a  llowing  stre;nii 
ot  frozen  water;  and  the  rirer  .si/stc'iitH  ol"  the  Temperate  and  l^(|iiat(i- 
rial  Z(ines  become  the  glaeu'r  systems  of  the  Arctic  and  the  Antardir. 
The  iceberg  is  the  discharge  of  the  .Vrctic  river,  the  Arctic  river  is  ihc 
ghicier,  ami  the  glacier  is  the  ai'cumulatiou  of  the  frozen  vapors  (•!  ihe 
au'.  ?.Ioving  on  its  slow  and  steady  course  Frnm  the  distant  hill>.  ,ii 
length  it  reaches  the  sea,  which  tears  fnuu  the  slotiiful  strv'am  a  iiimi- 
sti'ous  fragnuMit,  taking  back  to  itself  its  own  again.  Freed  from  liie 
shackles  which  it  lias  borne  in  silence  through  nuuuud)ered  centuries, 
this  new-b(ir]i  child  of  the  ocean  rushes  with  a  wihl  boiuid  inln  iIm' 
arms  of  the  parent  water,  wher<>  it  is  caressed  by  the  surf  and  miiM'i 
into  life  again  :  and  the  crystal  (lro[)s  r<'ceive  their  long-lost  iVi  i- 
(lom,  and  lly  away  on  the  huighing  waves  to  catcii  once  more  ili.' 
sunbeam,  and  to  run  auaiu  their  course  through  the  long  cvch' ( if  liic 
ages." 

^\n(l   tiiis   hu'hiTji  has  more  signilicance   than  the  great  ilood  whicu 
the    glacier's    southern    sister  —  the    broad    Airazou  —  ])oui's    intn    tin 
ocean    from   the   slojies  of  the   Andes   and   the    mountains   of    Iba/.il. 
Solemn,  stately,  and  erect,  in  tempest  and  in   calm   it  rides  the  deep. 
The  restless  waves  resound  through  the  broken  archways  and  tlnunKi 


U' 


THE   ETAH    ESKIMOS. 


1  ,')0 


a'_;iiinst  its  adamaritine  walls.  Clouds,  impenotrablo  as  those  wliicli 
sliiclded  the  graceful  form  of  Avethusa,  clothe  it  in  the  nioniiiii;  : 
iiii(h'r  the  bright  blaze  of  the  noonday  sun  it  is  armored  in  glittering 
silver;  it  robes  itself  in  the  gorgeovis  colors  of  evening;  and  in  the 
silent  night  the  heavenly  orbs  are  mirrored  in  its  glassy  surface. 
Drifting  snows  whirl  over  it  in  the  winter,  and  the  sea-gulls  swarm 
around  it  in  the  summer.  The  last  rays  of  de[)arting  day  linger  upon 
its  lofty  spires;  and  when  the  long  darkness  is  past,  it  eat(.'hes  tin* 
first  gleam  of  the  returning  light,  and  its  gilded  dome  heralds  the 
coniing  morn.  The  elements  <'ombine  to  render  tribute  "to  its  match- 
less beauty.  Its  loud  voice  is  wafted  to  the  shore,  and  the  earth  rolls 
it  from  crag  to  crag  among  the  ichoiug  hills.  Tiie  sun  steals  through 
the  veils  of  radiant  fountains  which  flutter  over  it  in  the  summer 
winds,  and  the  rainbow  on  its  ])allid  cheek  betrays  the  warm  kiss, 
'i'lic  air  crowns  it  with  wreaths  of  soft  vapor,  and  the  waters  iirouud  it 
take  the  hues  of  the  emerald  and  the  sai»phire.  In  t'ulfilmeiit  of  its 
destiny  it  moves  steadily  onward  in  its  bhie  piitliway,  llirdiigli  the 
viirying  seasons  and  under  the  changerul  skies.  Slow  Iv,  as  in  ages  \>>u<j; 
none  bv,  it  arose  from  tln'  broad  wateis.  so  does  it  sink  back  into  tlieni. 
Il  is  indeed  a  noble  synd(ol  of  tlie  law, — a  nionuuient  of  Time's  >l(iw 
changes,  more  ancient  tiian  the  l\gy]>tian  pyramids  or  the  dlielisk  ol" 
llelioj)olis.  Its  crystals  were  dewdrops  and  sucnvllakes  long  before 
the  human  race  was  born  in  Kden. 


'';■!   t 


I 

illiiiiiMii 

r'''r'. ''3. 


■4 


mm 


To  return  from  this  digression  :  -The  Summer  of  bSOl  was  passed 
1)V  Dr.  Hayes  in  the  conduct  of  ex[>lorations  and  survi'vs  in  the  iiiiiiie- 
(liate  vicinity  of  Port  Fonlke,  IFartstene  l>ay.  spoken  of  recently  li\' 
Nares  as  the  best  wintei'  station  on  the  north  coast  of  (freeiilaml. 
The  established  routine  of  observations  was  eoulinutMl  at  the  \(>m'1. 
and.  in  addition,  a  delicate  tidal  apparatus  was  constructed,  the  read- 
iiiU's  of  which  were  made  to  tenths  of  a  foot,  and  at  intervals  of  ten 
minutes.  Flayes  was  joiiu'd  by  a  tribe  of  Kskinit>s.  living  on  the  coast 
liftween  Snuth  Strait  and  Capi  »  Oik,  and  st'veral  niendxMs  of  the 
trihe  continued  with  him  until  late  in  the  stnnnier.  This  singular 
IK'Dple    numbered    about    eighty    souls.      They    li\('d     in    snow-hoiises 


!   ', 


f 


i 


!)' 


d    ^  ' 


m 


'•'''  AMKIJM'AN    K.\I'l,Oi;.\l'lnNs    IN    TMK    ICK    ZONKS. 

jilxmt    tlic  liiiibui',  ami   iniiiiiliiiiicil   llicinsclvcs   l>y  limitiiij;-   llio  walrus 
and    the    seal.     Tlio  chief  (d"  this  Ktali  tiihc  was  atjaiii  iVieiidlv. 


""^^'"■■^  H.ii  nicHOL'.iial 


A   SNOW    \  ll,|.A(Ji:. 


IIAVKS     KKTriJN    T( »    TIIK    rNITKl>    S'l'ATKS. 

Till'  schc,  (ler.  liaviiiu'  Ixhmi  pri'parcd  t'oi'  sea.  was  broken  out  ol'  llie 
ire  (Ml  tlif  lOtJi  of  .luly.  and  sailed  from  her  winter  liarhor  on  thi  l-llli. 
Alter  nnieh  diflienlty  and  two  trials,  sh(>  reached  the  west  coast,  ten 
mill's   below   Cajie   Isabella.     That    cajie  she   was   unable   to   [)ass,  but 


•ip  '^ 


COlil.KCTIONS    IN    NATTKAL    IIISTdltV. 


•  >t 


Ml 
11 


ll.ivcs  HUcceedcd  in  iniikiii;jf  its  iioitli  side  in  .i  \vliiilc-l)i>iit,  iiiid  l"n»in  iin 
«^|i'\;ilit»ii  ot"  iibitiit  six  liimdrcd  Icct,  obtaiiictl  ;i  view  to  tlic!  Norlli- 
w  11(1.  Ill  that  dirt!cli(»ii  IIh;  ice  \v;is  cvfrvwhcic  iiidndkcii  ;  and  as  it 
did  not  ii|>|)e<u'  ]>r(>l)al)U!  that  li(!  conld  (ti)lain  I'nr  thf  schooner  a  nioic 
iMiitlii'in  harhor,  and  as  \\v.  had  now  only  live  don's  rcmaininn',  withoui 
iiiciiMs  \)(  obtaininu^  a  new  sn|)|ily^  he  (h'ci(h'd  to  abandon  tiic  iicid,  ami 
to  return  homo,  triistinj^',  as  has  been  intiniatiMl,  to  be  al)lu  at  an  early 
da\  t(»  renew  the  attempt,  with  a,  small  steamer. 

Mnterini^  W'liah^  Sound,  Ik;  had  an  excellent  opjiortunity  I'or  de- 
lincatinn"  the  shore-line  of  that  reniai'kable  iidel.  'riiiou^h  a  clear 
;il  iiiospherc!  he  could  traci;  the  land  around  iVoui  Mm;  North  to  tlu; 
Sdiilli  sIku'c,  thus  [)rovinn'  llu;  inlet  to  be  a,  dee|»  <4uli",  which,  mit,  of 
respect  to  ih(!  enlerprisinj;'  navij^'ator  who  iirst  ]ienetral<'d  its  waters,  he 
(lesinuate(l  as  the  (Jidf  of  ('a[)tain  In^'hilield.  I'^or  two  jirominent 
points  on  the  northern  side  »l'  tla;  ^ull'.  mistaken  by  Intjlelicdd  for 
islands.  Dr.  Hayes  retained  tlu;  names  which  he  had  usi  d.  He  lound  a 
colony  ot  I'iskimos  on  tlu;  south  side  o['  Whale  Sonnt  ,  and  icmained 
loni,^  enoU!4'h  with  them  to  become  lannliar  with  their  habits  and  lo 
obtain  som(!   |>hoton'raphs. 

Alter  leavint;"  Whale  Sound  lie  c(»ntinue(l  down  the  c(»ast,  and. 
inuhn'  I'avorabU;  circumstances,  compleicd  the  survey  ot"  the  shore, 
iiicludiny;  ('adogeu  and  Talbot  Inlets,  as  far  south  as  Claicncc!  Ifead. 
Here  he  came  upon  a  lioiivy  ice-[)aek,  and  A\as  obliged  to  hold  to  the 
Eastward. 

l)urin<jj  this  period  of  t!ie  cruise  every  eflort  was  made  to  obtain 
collections  of  specimens  of  natural  histoiy  ;  but  in  this  department,  as 
well  as  in  many  others,  he  had  fre([uent  occasion  to  ro<>'ret  tlu?  small- 
ncss  of  hia  corj)S  of  workej's.  He  succeeded  in  obtainint;'  some  valua- 
ble collections,  ond)racin;4'  dredj^inn's  from  the  vari(tus  points  visiicfl, 
plants  from  several  tdfferent  localities,  skins  and  skeletons  of  the  ]irin- 
cipal  mammals,  skins  of  many  (tf  the  Arctic  birds,  and  a  lar^'e  nund)er 
of  skulls  of  Eskimos.  His  hunters  ca|)turcd  upward  of  two  hnn(lre(l 
reindeer.  Walrns  and  seal  of  different  varieties  wer(>  found  in  abun- 
dance. Durinjv  the  sunnncr  several  s])ecies  of  Avaterfowl  swarmed 
upon  the   islands   and   cliffs  about   the    mouth  of  Smith   Strait.     The 


J, 


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1i" 

j  ^           ! 

1  '  : 

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i    f 

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I    i 
i 


l.Vs 


A.MKItlCAN    KXIM/tUATIONS    IN     I'lIK    ICK    7.0NE.S. 


iiiosi  miiiR'roiis  ol'  llu'sc  wero  tlu'  little  auk  (^Uriu  uUc)  and  the  Eider 
<liu'k  (Soiiiateiiii  Moli^.sima),  several  lmii(lr«'(ls  (tf  wliieli  were  cai)ture(|. 
From  tiiese  sources  he  hud  no  diliieulty  in  eonslantly  supplying"  his 
])arty  with  iVesh  food,  and  to  this  he  altrihnted  in  a  great  measure 
their  entire  exem|ition   from  disease. 

('ontiuuin_n'  his  voyage  southward,  he  completed  tin;  survey  of  the 
Masti'rn  Coasl  of  North  Uatlin  liny,  I'rom  (',[\)v  Alexander  (o  (Jranvillc 
l>ay  :  a   snrvi'V  made   independently    d'  the     hai  s  (d"  his   predecessors. 

•icU',  .1   ]K)i'tioM   of  winch   is 
!iS       lies,  and  on    the  western 


he    sli(ire-Iru.     snrv(>V(  ( 


I    on    J 


ir    C 


new  (lisc(i\('r\,  e» 


mail 


etl  ahout    six    'ur 


nion    on   tlu; 


side.   Itelwcen   Clarcm'c    Head   on    the;  suiith   Ki    '   Cape    I 
north,  about   thirteen   hundred  miles. 

It  was  with  rej.'ret  that  he  turned  his  hack  uiicn  the  seem;  of  his 
year's  lahors  ftnd  entered  Melville  iiay,  and  alter  boring  through 
tile  "pack"  lor  one  hundred  and  lifty  uuh'S.  entered  the  Soidhciii 
W'atei'.  and  reached  riicrna>ik  on  th(>  14th  <d"  August,  and  Disco 
Island  Sepiendx'i'  1.  The  voyage  from  (Jo<lhavn  soutliward  was  very 
stormy.  Off  Halifax  the  ship  received  such  injury  :is  re(|uired  her  to 
jiut  iiiio  port  for  repairs.  Leaving  this  harbor  October  10,  l)''  Hayes 
arrived  in  lioston  on  the    '2'-)(\,  after  an   al)sence   of  hfteen   months  and 


thirl 


ecu   (lavs 


hn 


A  just  appreciation  of  his  labors  has  been  shown,  not  only  by  the 
llatlering  rece])tion  accorded  on  Ids  return  by  the  friends  of  Exploiii- 
lion  .ind  the  Societies  which  had  encouraged  his  enterprise,  but 
abro;i(l  by  the  awards  of  the  gold  uu'dal  of  the  Koyal  Society  of  L(;n- 
don.  ;ind  of  the  Societe  de  (Jeographie  of  I'aris ;  the  iirst  of  these 
being  icceived  for  Inm  ^hiy  •J7.  ISdT,  by  Hon.  (".  F.  Adams,  United 
Siaie>  Minisier  to  St.  James,  and  the  st'cond  by  (nuieral  John  A.  I)ix, 
Tnited  States  Ministci'  to  Paris,  in  18(i9.  The  citations  from  his 
^■nrrative  and  (^harl  ma(U>  in  the  Ueports  of  Captain  Nares  are  aeconi- 


iianiiMi   h\-  the  (»xi)rcssion  "  o 


f  undoubted  authority. 


To  Ids  two   Arctic  volunu's,  ''The   Arctic  Boat  Journey "  o 


f  18 


and 


The  Open  Polar  Sea"  of  18t30,  lie  added  a  narrative  t)f  a  thir(: 
visit  to  Oreeidand  in  ISdO.  made  in  ihe  Steam  Yacht  "  Panther,"  the 
])ruperiy  of  ihe  Artisl.  Mr.  William    Ibadford.     This  vcduine  bears  the 


'I  ■  I 


'.III 


From  the  "  Open  Pnlar  Srn,"  ropuWi«l\cil  tiy  .1.  R-  Ovind  St  Co.,  \^',. 


m 


'^^Jii 


!=t 


f 

I'll 

■ 

i 

1     < 

j 

i 

;  i! 

*'  ' 

\P 

■    ( 

;         ) 

160 


AMKKICAN    KXPI.OItATlONH    IN    TIIK    ICIC   ZONKS. 


titl(!  of  '' Tlic  Land  ol"  Di'Sdlatioii,"  ii 


iiimio  if-apijlU'd  iVdin  the;  cliion 


llMl 


l(!     oh 


cU's  of  (»kl  .loliii  Davis.  On  (lie  visit,  devoted  cliielly  to  tin-  shid\  ,,| 
the  |iietiires(iue  rather  than  tiio  scieutilie,  Hayes  had  the  renew rd 
l»leasMre  of  o!)serving  the  formation  of  the  (ireenhmd  glaeien 
ieehei'us,  as  well  as  of  visiting  the  sites  of  the  colonies  of  tl 
Northmen  tliere.  The  range  of  the  eoasl  along  whieh  the  "f'anthci  ' 
sailed  was  more  than  a,  tli(»nsand  miU-s,  terminating  u  good  wa\  heyoml 
the  lasl  ontpost  (»f  eivilization  on  the  glohe,  and  in  the  midst  of  the 
nnu'h-dreaded  iee-paek  of  Melville  liny. 

As  an   Honorary  Mendier  of  several   Seientitie    JSoeieties  of  Kninpc 
id  A 


and  AnuM'iea,  with  an   observing  eye   upon   each   of  the   later  Arctic 
Expeditions,   he   eontribnted    to    the    press    inimerons  articles    on    h 


IS 


lie 


w 


avoilte  theme,  even  amidst  the  busy  oeeupations   of  his  political   1 
bih'  a   nuMuber  (»f  the  Legislature  of  the  State   of  New  York,  niinii- 


taiiiing  a    deep  interest    in  Arctic  diseovery  until    his  death   in  l>i71. 

NoTK.  —  Tlw  Annual  Txoport  of  the  Board  of  Rosonts  of  tlic  Sniillisonian  Institntc  ii 
the  year  iSCil  contains  a  liOctuiv  dolivt'i'cd.  by  Dr.  Hayes  in  the  hall  of  the  In.slitulion.  n 
his  ExiuMJition  of  ISCiO.  This  IJcporl  contains  also  Professor  Henry's  vahialdc  SnniiiiMi 
of  Dr.  Kane's  Exjilorations.  In  his  {{eport  to  tlie  Itenents  for  the  year  IS().">.  ProfesM 
Henry  devotes  a  |iUi;e  space  to  a  r(>\  icw  of  Dr.  Hayes'  seientitie  work  in  the  North,  n  i,  i 


rin^j;  in  his  review  to  the  aiireenient  of  the  resnl 


,ilh  tliose  of  Dr.  Kane  as  due  lu  il 


fact   tliat  in  both   !"Apedltions  the  larger  part  of   the  Observations   were  made  by  'In 
hiniented  Sonntau. 


i:IN' 


II- 1 


llir 


hL-fiiNiim  iV  I'liiiiiii-j. 


'  II  \  \  n.v  \  1.' 


(I  !i\vi:n  i  ^^^,lt!•^l('^  i>f  >;.  K  H..I  (.  -i '•i  '!'ni 


I  ti 


III.-    TllKtiK    ^t.^•\t.l;s.    'vMi...l!< 


It',    >   FOi;    IMS  J''l/;t5T  N<'»A<rK        ,.Vl;t  TM'   8J('I>\.-      !. i^u!"r■■,^ 

..  —  i!:..Voi»Ns  Mm  liiTH'.xiNu  riiAi'  m':k  'U''  I'ij -.  ^  m.;n'.v 


.IVEl'.    -  • 


ii;<'i  LAJ:  KNr»'»J'RKi'  nv  M'..mhn«.  Mi  s  --i  ".ii<». 


■  v-,  Al!)    UV  Mj..  eilliSM'.T.I    AM»U\    W'KLIAMH    Wl*    nWI.X, 

"<»>(    .nkv   uu.mjo.n.  —  I'T'hu'.s   his   v\ri\;:  i'oMi«A\;nv. 

..•iTfiic    u  Ki.Kiui.s.       AUUlVi  ■.   Ai    ri  :.M.i..r.>  iJI.P'm  n. 
:,*.T    LVrUl'SR'"  '■•<    <'F     FHh    ,V.\  IT."  l-'-s, -—  Di.- I  I'l  t '  i  ;  i  i.s      M-- 


>..    AND  T>« K  KX i'r:nrne»>  m - »  p. -  •  i- 1 nsr  \'  i.^t  \ 


t    \  "•  t  •" ! . 


.,„.•«   »N   'ii'i:    ,)m:in»:   jmj.j.<  •  vi.NG. — T.!»n'nVf':u\   'iHA  i       ;;"- 

.  \^\  "   i:^  \  i>\\.'  ~    ItNi'jN'.    f«l-    Thf:    H!"H!SIIK1-    :;!.•;     • 
t:v  HAl.nnn'v-i  ilisrt'UA.—    l.Xi\.' >U.\Tli 'V-      n  'IhL  •■^n'\,. 


—    liKf    I;n      l*  •      !  1) 
;>  III'  ir  <Hil  t 


K    -i  \iJ..     '•  1)  r     'Hi:     *'. 


' '•■    ;i   tV"\V  WPrl.R.  ol'   !i:i'  s-tiliiij.j  *•!    Ih     l'i\<:'s   t.  'ill    I'..., roil 


i       I'v,  t)tiii'a'  I'l' 


iu"    t'l'i''     pi"    'V 


III!'  '..  <  '(Uiin-<-'  'i' 


n 


(  t'*'^ '"''"'■ 


tlni    r.ur    "!'   KlMiikli'i    ii:.vi    Ui'  iili;(l    IM     >'".  <   .    i'     lliil 


Cliliiusrisiii    li,;-    tlH!    MMf  li    -»!lI 

iii  uiih  with  •;'"  •  liie.     Tii!'<"!'!    : 


i  '     f !  ;      .\  i.i" 


I'ilt  If  ..1 


to  f 


■!•>!  1  lie!  iultS  CO  !  :<MU''-r)M 


D.'ll. 


.(••  nr    ,    > 


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tfl   !.l     I  i: 


I' -'ix.    r.M'u 


.r.ci 


Ill- 


IP   I'. I      oMM'l  <■■ 


.jCfl 


til-,,  -.'uilv  '•'!'  1-. .  .it   ir.i;.,hl   \>"   iImji-'   j. '• 


Tr    i'.     '■!. 


Hi 


I  ■,      I'li^il  i,"(l 


•\il--     OuVilt! 


H    ;m 


rt'       ''S  .    ii'^H  .(1      l/V       i  i; 


■"f    all    f-rtiri;i.\-*'r ;    du,    Ir     '"Mi 


\\  111, 


,t.wl 


irtun  (if  !iii:-  •  h;;.iK 


Tt  "  iiiic  ir'>i:.  i  1"^  V     ••   nt  Hti;  ■■  v 


In    ii!t'iM' 


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>h.u    '.V    \|-.,t'-.    t 


1     i>  I'  > *     * 


.-!■  ("T. 


! •  k iiov.  ••(I'jriii  !it-  ,ii'i    I'ii'  M''>;.-.f.s.  li 


,r  •,.,.  n 


i  111-    i>  tjlXli' 


•ij   .it'  Ml.'  Sjoond    !iii!  .if  t'   '   riihi'    Fv;i  ■!  al',>!i  i'    '!i,.  :ie,j   iiJ.ai't.-r,  ..    !u.!- 

i'l.ViVi    f..     •■   tti.    tlilii.::!    !  Vn)    )■-  .t'i  i  f    HI  ,  I  S|-l.  :i.l 


i".  lii;.'  In'iii  ..  ii.a-- 1- 


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TIIK  CA 

hai.l's 

IIESOI 
MEN  { 
—  (!E 

Kun-i 

AND 
HAY.  - 

THE  " 
WITH 

HIS  HE 
CONFI 
AND  .^ 
TEIIST 
NATIV 


w 


syiiipatli 
Ciiiciiimi 
which  fa 
issue  ot' 
Hritisli  \ 
S|iai'o  hoi 
means  w 
(hilly  hih 

*  Tim  1 
I'liit'lly  as  I 
N.  v..  lS(i:, 

Tho  lii> 

ill;,'  -.line  St 


n 


UK  GHINNELL 


CHAPTER    VI.* 

AXI)   IIAVEX   EXPEDITION   OE  G.  F.  HALL.— TlIP:   FIRST 
OF   Ills   TIIUEE    VOVACJES.   1860-02. 


HAl.LS  MOTIVES  FOR  HIS  FIRST  VOYAGE.  —  ARCTIC  STUDY.  —  LIMITED 
UESUURCES.  —  REASONS  FOR  BEL1EVIN(;  THAT  SOME  OF  FRANKLIN's 
MEN  STILL  LIVED.  —  CIRCULAR  ENDORSED  BY  LEADING  MEN  OF  OHIO. 
—  (lENEROUS  AID   BY  MR.  GRINNELL  AND  BY  WILLIAMS  AND    HAVKN. 

SAILS    FROM    NEW    LONDON.  —  BURIES     HIS    NATIVE    COMPANION, 

KUD-LA-GO.  —  VISITS    HOLSTEINBORG. THE    KYAKS.  —  THE    BELTED 

AND  THE  GOTHIC  ICEBERGS.  —  ARRIVES  AT  CORNELIUS  GRINNELL 
1;AY.  —  FIRST  IMPRESSIONS  OF  THE  NATIVES.  —  DESTRUCTION  OF 
THE  "RESCUE,"  AND  THE  EXPF^DITION  BOAT. — FIRST  A('(iUAINTANCE 
WITH  EBIERBING  AND  TOO-KOO-LI-TOO. — INLAND  EXCURSION.  —  EX- 
ILORATIONS  IN  THE  SPRING  FOLLOWING.  —  DISl'OVERY  THAT  FRO- 
lilSHER  "strait"  is  A  BAY.  —  FINDING  OF  THE  FP.OBISHER  RELICS 
CONFIRMED  BY  BARROW's  HISTORY. — EXPLORATIONS  IN  THE  SPRING 

AND   SUMMER    OF  1862. NOTES   OF   ESKIMO    DRESS,   HABITS,  AND    Sl- 

I'ERSTITIONS.  —  r'eTURN  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES  WITH  THE  TWO 
NATIVES  AND  THEIK  CHILD. 


w 


'rrHIN  a  few  weeks  of  the  sailing  of  Dr.  Hayes  from  Boston, 
an  Arctic  voyager,  without  companions  for  his  exploration, 
left  the  port  of  New  London,  Connecticut.  The  prevailing 
sympathy  for  the  fate  of  Franklin  had  kindled  in  Mr.  C.  F.  Hall,  of 
('iiicinnati,  an  enthusiasm  for  tlie  search  and  for  Arctic  Exploration 
whicli  failed  him  only  with  his  life.  Througli  the  nine  years  from  the 
issue  of  the  instructions  to  Lieutenant  Dellaven  to  the  return  of  the 
iiiitish  Yacht  ''Fox,"  under  McClintock,  he  had  steadily  devoted  ev(My 
spiue  hour  to  the  study  of  what  might  be  done  for  the  rescue.  His 
means  were  very  limited;  he  Avas  earning  a  bare  livelihood  by  the 
daily  labor  of  an    engraver ;    but   he   found   friends   who    assisted    in 

*  The  preparation  of  this  chapter  has  been  mado  from  a  review  of  Hall's  lirst  voyaiio, 
I'liit'lly  as  narrated  by  hiiiiself  in  liis"Aretlc  Researches."  published  by  M(!ssrs.  Harper, 
N.  v..  ISC).").     Acknowledgments  are  due  Messrs.  Harper  for  tlu;  use  of  the  Woodcuts. 

The  history  of  the  Second  and  of  the  Third  Expedition  in  the  next  chapter,  includ- 
iii;,'  -.iMie  statcMii'ni>  here  found,  has  Itcen  derived  from  theOnicial  Papers  and  C'orrespond- 

161 


I? 


m 


■ 


r  ;i 


i  ■ 

! 

!'■ ' 

!  1 

■         '■, 

;■  '  !!( 

1 ' 

i 

\&2 


AMEltlCAN    EXl'LOllATIONS    IN   THE    JCE   ZONES. 


sec'uiing  intelligence  ot"  what  was  done  by  the  different  Expedition:* 
already  named  [('liaj).  I.]  ;  and  1)>'  the  i-cindness  ehielly  of  ("oIoik'I 
Lupton,  President  of  the  Mercantile  Library,  he  was  supplietl  with  lue 
fullest  Arctic  literature. 

In  l<sr)4  the  IJritish  (iovernment  had  felt  itself  no  longer  justified  in 
sending  out  expeditions  in  search  of  the  "Erebus''  and  "Terror,"  hut 
llalTs  iiiteiest  does  not  seem  to  have  in  any  degree  languished.  The 
British  Jiclicf  Ship  ••({esolute"  had  been  abandoned  in  the  ice,  ]>;rluil 
up  at  sea-  by  ('a[>tain  .lames  Hudington,  of  New  London,  Connectiiiit. 
and  ])rescuted  to  England  l)y  the  I'uited  States  Congress.  Hearing' 
that  she  hiid  been  disnianllcd  and  laid  U[)  as  a  hulk  in  the  ]\Ie(l\\;i\. 
Hall  secured  the  signatures  of  (iovernor  Chase  and  oilier  leading  mm 
ol'  Ohio  to  a  petition  to  that  Covernment  for  a  loan  of  the  ship,  in 
which  he  might  go  out  to  join  ^IcClintock  in  his  expedition  of  18o7--"iH. 
The  return  of  the  "l-'ox"'  anticipated  action  on  this,  but  he  still  uigril 
that  the  cxjihu'ations  ma<le  by  that  slii[),  though  eminently  succcsslui. 
had  U'fl  much  oi'  value  to  be  securecl ;  that  they  had  been  maile.  hv 
necessity,  in  the  mouth  of  Ma}',  when  the  laud  was  still  (tovered  with 
snow:  and  that  interviews  with  the  10skim«  s  had  been  found  piiidi 
cahle  with  ddached  parties  only,  and  through  an  interpreter  w  hn. 
JNIcCliiilock  laid  said,  '•did  not  well  understand  them."  His  patiiuiii' 
sentiments  were  stimidated  by  the  results  of  the  First  (irinnell  I'!x|i('- 
dition  :  and  since  I'higland  had  left  the  held,  "'the  Stars  and  Slriiic-," 
he  thought,   "shoidd  enter  it.'' 

Nothing  seems  to  prove  more  fully  the  sincerity  and  depth  of  cdn- 
victions  —  at  times  insecurely  based  —  thiiu  this  expectation  of  hiidin'^ 
officers  or  men  of  Franklin's  party  still  alive.  The  ])aper  found  ;ii 
Point  Victor}-  in  185U*  showetl  that  Ca[)tain  Crozier  had  left  the  slii) -^ 

ence  of  Hall,  whicli  were  hoforo  the  tuitlior  when  proiiuriiiu  fo.'thc  SimkUc  the  "  Xiur;iti\" 
of  the  ISeroiul  Arctic  Expcilitioii."'  and  when  iissisliiiir  the  late  Admiral  Davis  in  the  invii- 
aratioii,  for  the  Xavy  Department,  of  '*Tlie  N'mth  Polar  Expedition  of  lS71-To,"  —  iIh' 
voyage  of  the  "  I'olaris, "'  No  copy  of  either  of  these  two  xol nines  is  now  availalilr  I'ni- 
di.stri()ntion  by  Cong'^eKs,  the  Xavy  Department,  or  tlu^  Naval  Observatory. 

*  Lieiitenanl  irol)son.  of  MeClintoek's  party,  had  found  on  Kin;:  William's  Laml.  in 
a  tin  cylinder,  within  a  cairn  or  stone  jtile,  a  paper  on  which  was  written:  — 

"28th  May.  iS4('.  If.  M.  Ships  '  Erebus'  and  "terror"  wintered  in  the  ice  in  lai.  Te- 
0.")'  \.,  Ijni;.  !)S"  2;}'  \V.     ilavinii  wiiiiered  in  lsiti-7  at  Ueechey  Island,  in  iat.  74'  -CI  i'^  ' 


il 


THE   ONLY    JlECOUlJ    KVKk    TO    IJi:    KOTM). 


l(i:5 


on  ihcir  abiindoiuiieut,  with  a  wcaki'iuMJ  party  and  witli  the  ii'iiiinint  of 
iiciliaps  (tri^'inally  ill-suppliud  jji'ovisioiis,  to  liiid  his  way  lowaid  the 
(K'siihitf  regions  of  liack's  or  (ireat  Fish  river.  Tii"  iiresiimption  in 
llic  minds  of  nu)st  men  was  entirely  against  tlu;  |irol);il)ilily  of  extended 
Ufe  in  a  single  ouv  of  the  survivors  named  in  tliat  Iierord. 

lUit  all  difficulties  in  the  ease  were  overuome  or  lost  sight  of  in 
Hiills  reasonings,  and  ia  iiis  imi)ulse  to  bear  relief.  Froin  iixjuiries  of 
till'  whalers  who  yisitcil  Cumherland  Sound,  l{i'[inlse  Hay,  and  other 
iKUtliern  loealitics,  ho  learned  that  the  exjH'rienee  of  some  wlio  had 
livi'il  for  months  as  Eskimos  with  the  Eskimos  iiad  Jiot  been  seNcre; 
iiiiil  from  one  of  Dr.  Kane's  jjarty,  .Mr.  Wilham  Jliekey,  he  rec(ivc'(l 
as^lll■ane(»  that  when  lie  and  others  of  that  piirty  had  so  lived,  ihey 
riMiiv  rred  from  all  siekni'sses  tiiid  maintaiiu'd  their  health,  llali  i-ou- 
clinled  that  some  of  Franklin's  survivors  might  be  still  enjoying  a  h-aso 
:\i'  Hie  among  that  not  iidiospitable  [)eople.  an<l  he  IiojxhI  that  by  his 
Lading  out  and  living  ])atiently  among  them,  he  could  draw  out,  through 
fiiitlifiil  interpreters,  ihe  hnal  clue  to  tlie  fate  of  the  shijis.  the  men, 
ami  the  records  of  the  E\[»edilion.     Other  reasoiungs  leading  liim   to 

N..  1(1111,'.  01"  30'  l.J"  W.,  aftor  liaviiig  asrondod  Wellinglon  Channel   in  lat.   u'\  and 
iciiiiiird  by  thn  west  sidt^  of  CornwallLs  Island. 
"Sir  .lolin  Franklin  (.'onnnanding  the  E.^iiodition. 
•■All  well. 

•'  Tail y  (■unsi>tiiig  of  two  oflioors  and  six  men  left  llio  Slii]i  on  Monday,  24tli  IM:, .'.  lS-t7. 

•■  (i.   M.  (;<)i!i:,   I.iciil. 
••('iiAs.   V.   Dks  '.   Ki  \.  Matf." 

Aniiiiid  llio  margin  of  this  paper,  upon  whiili.  in  ls4T.  those  words  of  hopi'  and  ;iniiii- 
i^f  were,  written,  the  following  words  had  snhsequiuitly  been  faintly  traced:  — 

"•April  2').  1S4S.  Ii.M.  Sliips  'Erebus'  and  'Terror'  were  deserted  :)n  tin;  li'Jd  .\i)ril. 
."i  li'iigne:,  \.\.\V.  of  this,  having  ix'eii  lieset  sinee  l-Jth  St>ptr..  IS4(!.  The  oHieers  and 
iTi'ws.  consisting  of  14")  soids,  nnder  the  conunand  of  Cant.  E.  TJ.  ^f.  Ci'ozier,  landed  hercr 
ill  lat.  C.'.)^  :iT' 42"  \.,  long.  9s^' 41'  W.  Sir  .John  Eranklin  tiled  on  the  lllh  .luiie,  IS4T: 
and  the  total  loss  by  deaths  in  the  Exiiedition  has  Ijeiiii  to  this  date-  i)  ollicer.>  and   I.")  men. 

(Signed)  Ja.mks  Frr/.iAMi;s. 

'•F.  K.  l\r.  f'KoziKi!,"  Captain  II.M.. S.  •  Erel/iis.' 

"Captain  and  Senior  Officer, 
"and  start  on  to-morrow,"  2flth  for 
"Back's  Fish  Itivcr." 
In  Admiral  ^leClintoek's  "Voyage  of  the  Fox,"  the  date  of  tlic  year  of  Fraiikliirs 
wintering  at  Heeehey  Island  is  corrected  from  IS4()-7  to  lS4.'j-0, —  a  correction  which,  ;i>  li,> 
states,  is  proved  by  a  glance  at  the  top  ami  the  boltmn  of  i'Mlzjam.s'  Paper. 


iU  I 


VV'''\ 


i  i  ; 

i  a 


i;::,! 


li     i       i' 

ill!  I 


"i-. 


u 


i  ! 


I  ■ 


164 


AMEIUCAN    KXl'LORATIONS    IN    THK    ICK   ZONES. 


believe  that  some  of  the  party  still  survived,  were  that  uo  Arctic 
Exj^lorer  had  ever  understood  better  the  necessities  of  a  good  su])])ly 
of  fresh  provisions  for  his  men  than  did  Sir  John  Fraidcliu,  and  tiiiit 
lie  had  made  provision  for  such  necessities.  In  proof  of  this  Hall  liad 
found  in  the  oiheial  papers  that  a  full  complement  of  fresh  provisions, 
l)reserved  meats,  soups,  vegetables,  and  ten  live  oxen  were  on  board 
the  "Erebus"  and  "Terror;"  and  further,  that  Franklin  had  told 
Captain  Martin,  of  the  whaler  "Enterprise,"  when  off  the  coast  of 
Greenland,  thut  he  had  provisions  for  five  years,  and,  if  necessary,  could 
make  them  spin  out  to  seven;  he  would  lose  no  opportunity  of  killintf 
game,  and  had  already  secured  a  large  quantity.  There  was  every 
reason  to  beli(;ve,  too.  that  animal  life  was  found  in  abundance  by  his 
men  on  the  shores  of  Wellington  Channel,  especially  in  the  neighboi'- 
hood  of  Baillie  Hamilton  Island,  and  that  Franklin  must  have  sent, 
hunting  parties  to  great  distances  v;ith  sledges;  for  the  tracks  of  these 
sledges  were  seen  six  years  affer  by  Kane,  DeHaven,  Onimaney,  and 
Osborne.  Hall  could  say  with  truth  that  his  expectations  of  rendering 
relief  were  liased  on  years  of  careful  study  and  examination  of  \\\y,\\ 
had  been  written  on  the  subject:  and  his  a])})eid  was  ])lain  and  strong: 
"Why  should  not  attem])ts  be  renewed  agabi  and  again  until  all  the 
facts  ail'  known  ?  " 

On  the  8th  of  February,  18(50,  lit;  issued  a  circular,  in  the  nattire  of 
an  a])])eal  to  his  fellow-citizens  for  aid  in  his  pi'oposed  iindertakinn', 
which  read  as  follows:  — 

'"This  is  to  memorialize  all  lovers  of  man,  and  of 
geography,  history,  and  science,  to  co-o])erate  by  all 
methods  and  means  in  their  p>>wer  to  facilitate  and 
assist  our  fellow-countryman,  Charles  F.  Hall,  of  Cin- 
cinnati, Ohio,  in  the  formation  of  and  iitting  out  an 
American  Expedition,  in  search  of  survivors  of  .Sit 
J(  bn  yraiiklin's  Exploring  party,  consisting  of  one 
hundred  and  thirt ;.  •<-;j;'ht  ].;:rsons,  only  twenty-seven  of  whom  are  known 
to  be  dead  :  '.•ieco.ully,  for  .'atisfactorily  settling  and  completing  the 
historvof  ihr  la  *  F'i'nklJn  Fxpedilii'u;  and  thirdly,  to  promote  and 
benefit  the  c;.:i,-,e  cf  geogriphy,  navigation,  natural  history  and  science. 


hall's  i'LAns.  105 

'•Siu'li  Hii  cxpoditioii,  with  proper  vessels,  witli  a  t'oinpeteut  iiuil 
(.x|,i  ricnueil  eoinaiunder,  otlicers,  aiul  crow,  witli  a  complete  outtit  iind 
iiKivisioiis  ft)i' Ironi  two  to  three  years'  cruise,  to  embark  I'rom  an  east- 
ern port  of  the  United  States,  and  proceed  vUi  Davis'  Strait,  liallin's 
|;;i\.  Lancaster  Sound,  and  Barrow's  Strait;  thence  from  the  north 
ciiast  of  Bootiiia  to  commence  the  search,  extending  it  to  King  \Vil- 
]i;i Ill's  Land  and  the  adjacent  regions,  nntil  a  thorough  and  satist'a<;torv 
iiL\('stigati(ni  shall  have  been  made  of  all  that  jjortion  of  the  Arctii; 
^Vllrld.  and  the  humanitaxiun  object  attained  for  discovering  some  sui- 
v'.vor  of  the  lost  compani(;ns  of  Sir  John  Fraidclin,  or  of  ascertaining 
the  ultimate  fate  of  the  nu;mbers  of  that  expedition,  who,  up  to  this 
(hiv,  remain  unaccounted  foi',  being  no  less  than  one  hundi'cd  and 
eleven  souls,  whoso  history  the  loud  voic(!  of  mankind  from  all  gcn- 
(Ttuis  natures  demands  shall  not  remain  forever  shrouded  in  oblivion 
wliilc  energetic  intelligence  and  American  ent(;rprise  can  liojx;  to 
ivscuc  a  single  survivor,  or  furnish  the  so'ution  of  ilicir  ultimate 
histoi'v."  This  appeal  "was  emhu'sed  by  a  number  of  tlie  public  men  of 
ilic  Slate,  among  whom  were  its  (iovernor,  \V.  Dennisoii,  Lion.  S.  I*. 
Cliasc,  and  the  jNIayor  of  Cincinnati,  Jlon.  K.  AL  Jlisho]). 

I'roceeding  to  the  i^astern  States.  Mr.  Hall  \isitc(l  l,)r.  Hayes  and 
tlic  relatives  and  iVicnds  of  Dr.  Kane  in  I'hiladclpliia,  and  thence 
itturning  to  New  York,  met  with  much  personal  encouragement  from 
Mr.  Henry  (Jrinnell,  and  in  New  L.ngland  from  Messrs.  Williams  and 
li'ivcii,  of  ^»ew  London.  ^\t  a  meeting  of  the  .Vmei'ican  (.ieograjilii 
Siicicty  of  New  York  he  explaiuecl  his  plans,  which  wei'c  in  suhstai  rj 
lliat  lie  would  (iist  in  tlii^  North  ae(|uire  a  knowledge  of  the  langn.in'ti 
and  life  of  the  Eskimos,  and  then  visit  tlu;  lands  of  King  Will  n, 
lluiiiliia.  and  \'ictoria.  He  would  take  witli  him  a  native  inter]"'  .fr, 
and,  liming  his  sojourn  in  the  North,  employ  a  crew  of  nati  ■>  to 
iic(i)!ii|)any  liini.  i\v  would  tirst,  on  reaching  Xortliuiiiberland  in  ct, 
jiincccd  up  one  of  its  arms  Avliich  runs  \\('st  \var<l.  and.  crossing  I  .a 
|i(iitage,  travej-se  this  lake  t')  its  onllet,  which  is  rc|i(ii'led  by  the  i".->ki- 
iiins  as  being  a  navigable  river  cniptying  into  l''o\  Cliamud.  Arriving 
ill  "Fox's  Furthest"  (Lat.  Cil^oO'  N.,  Long.  77°  n.V  W.),  he  would  pio- 
cct'd  on  tli(!  east   side  of  tlu^  (diannel  to  the  Strait   of  the  "  Furv  *  and 


.!■    ' 


i: '   1 


!     -J 


Y:.  f 


I  'm 


1  ( it  i 


AMERICAN    EXPLORATIONS    IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


"Ilc'C'lii"of  Piirry,  tlms  connecting  Parry's  (liscovci'ics  of  1821  with 
those  of  Fox,  iniulc  in  ir»ol.  SuccecMling  in  tiiis,  lu;  wonld  liopc  t,, 
winter  among  the  friendly  natives  of  Igloolik,  and  ])r()ceed  either  souili- 
ward  to  the  east  coast  of  Melville  Peninsula,  or  jmsh  his  way  ac^dss 
the   (iulf  of  Bf)otliia  to  Victoria   Harbor. 

Duiing  the  winter  and  spring,  sledge  jourin^ys  AVoidd  be  made  to 
ascertain  the  ehief  object  of  his  voyage,  and  to  ae([iiiri!  a  thoroii^li 
kiiouii'dge  of  the  country.  It  A\as  evidently  in  his  nund  that  prepai'a- 
tory  work  of  a  serious  character  would  be  neeessai'v  belong  much  could 
be  hoped  for  iu  the  matter  of  ascertaining  even  this,  and  as  certaiulv 
ill  the  A\av  of  securing  any  furthei' additions  to  the  knowledge  of  llic 
Eskimos  and  their  land. 

Mr.  (irinnell,  who,  at  tli(>  date  of  this  entorjirise,  and  even  much 
later,  retained  the  latent  ho]ie  of  there  being  yet  a  possibility  n\' 
finding  anuuig  the  natives  sonu;  of  Franklin's  nuMi,  sent  Hall  a  stnui^ 
letter  of  encouragement.  Th;  wrote  that  ])robably  no  one  was  nioiv 
desiious  than  hims(df  to  ascertain  the  fate  of  the  Franklin  J'iXpedi- 
tion.  and  he  beJicNcd  that  some  of  the  one  hundre<l  and  live  men  who 
wei-e  ali\c  oil  till'  '2'){\\  day  of  Ajiril,  1848,  might  still  be  found  anioiin' 
the  inhabitants  of  !>ootliia,  N'ictoria,  or  Prince  Albert  Lands,  lie 
advised  a  visit  to  the  grave  of  J'^ranklin  and  to  those  of  some  of  his 
oflicers.  which,  if  searched  for  in  the  nnuitlis  of  -Inly,  .Viigust.  and 
Se[)tcnil»ci',  might  lie  discoveicd.  and  AVould  reveal  some  records  of  I  he 
e\pediti(Ui:  adding,  '"the  course  yni  jirojio-^e  to  pursue  is  entirely  a 
new  and  important  one.  and  I  see  not  why,  with  the  exercise  of  your 
best  indgment,  you  may  not  ultimatidy  accomjilish  all  that  coiihl 
be  desired  in  satisfactorily  di'termining  many  oi'  the  unsettled  ipics- 
tions  indicated  above,  as  w.'ll  as  increasing  our  geogiaphieal  knowl- 
edge <d'  that  portion  of  the  Arctic  regions  oNcr  which  you  propose  Ui 
pass. 

••  \'ou  have  my  earnest  wishes  I'or  the  acecunplishnient  of  the  iiulijr 
(d)ieci  y<ni  liaNc  in  \ie\\.and  I  will  (dieerfully  contribute  towaids  the 
requisite  funds  to  cai'rv  it   out." 

The  lirm  of  Williams  and  Haven,  of  New  London,  made  the  lnl- 
lowing  geueituis   [)i(»j)osal  : 


DKATIl    OF    Kri)-LA-<;(». 


107 


•  As  a  testimony  of  our  personal  regard,  and  the  interest  we  I'eel  in 
ill,  iii'oposed  expedition,  we  will  eonvev  it  and  its  recpiired  outtit, 
Iip;iis.  sledges,  provisions,  instruments,  otc,  fn'f  <>f  c/itii\'/r,  in  the 
Iiiii.|iie  "(ieorge  Henry,"  to  Nortliund)erlaiul  Inlet,  and,  whenever 
(K>iifd,  we  \»'ill  give  the  same  tree  passage  honi"  in  any  of  our  ships.'" 

.\h»y  -\K  18(J0,  after  spending  some  weeks  of  preparation  in  New 
Vm  k  and  New  L(jndon,  Hall  left  the  latter  city,  Searing  with  him  the 
|;i>i  cordial  larewells  of  Mr.  (irinnell,  Mr.  llavei;,  and  Mayor  Harris. 
'j'lir  "(ieorge  Henry"  was  aecompanied  l)y  the  "Amoret"  sehooner,  foi'- 
iiM  1 1\  known  as  the  '' lleseue "  of  Aretic  eelebrity,  the  ollieers  and  crews 
(il  ihe  two  vessels  luunbering  in  all  twenty-inne  persons.  Hall's  only 
(■(.iii|ianion  was  the  Eskimo,  Kud-la-go,  whom  ("ajjlain  Hudington,  of 
ilic  ■■(xeorge  HeniT."  had  brought  to  the  Uiuted  States  on  his  voyage 
(il'ilic  pi'eeeding-autumn.  The  outfit  which  the  explorer  could  call  his 
nwii  consisted  of  a  boat  built  for  him  by  Rogers,  the  builder  for  De- 
ll;,\fii.  Kane,  and  lliirtstene;  one  sledge;  some  twelve  hundred 
pnimds  of  pennnican  and  meat  biscuit;  a  small  supply  of  a-  iniMution, 
and  a  few  nautical  instruments  and  thermometers.  The  diui  nsions  of 
the  Ihiat  were:  length,  twenty-eight  feet;  beam,  seven  feet;  depth, 
tuciiiy-nine  and  one-half  inches;  the  thicki.ess  of  her  cedar  i)laid<ing, 
.sc\ cii-eighths  of  an  inch.  Loaded  with  stores  and  a  cri'W  ol'  six  per- 
Mill-.,  she  drew  but  eight  inches  of  water,  had  one  mast  for  a  jii)  and 
main  sail,  a  heavy  awning  for  shelter,  and  lockers  at  each  end  large 
ciin!i'4h  f(ii'  a  comfortable  sleep  by  one  person.  With  an  outiit  no 
i;u,Licf  than  this.  Hall  could  hardly  avoid  saying  on  his  return  that,  had 
he  iailed  in  the  great  undertaking  his  mind  had  led  him  to  embark  in, 
it  might  have  been  excusable  under  the  circumstances. 

Progress  toward  Greenlaiul,  owing  to  calms  and  head  winds,  was 
s(i  laiitalizingly  slow,  that  a  i\)Uith  week  jtassed  while  tlie  shi[)  was 
yet  a  eonsideral)le  distance  from  Holsteiuborg.  She  did  not  ancht)r 
thcic  until  .Inly  7.  the  fortieth  day  ol"  a  jiassagx^  usually  made  in  thii'ly. 
1  he  ••  Rescue  "'  was  another  week  behind.  On  the  voyagi;  Hall  had 
thi'  usual  iii'st  ex])erieiice  of  a  landsnum  —  sea-sickness:  recovering 
iVnni  which  his  journal  entries  were  those  of  enjoyment  of  the  phe- 
nnniciui  of  the  lengthened  day,  the  aurora,  and  the   ieebi'rgs.     He  met 


i  \ 


;  ! 


ill  r 


168 


A.MEUICAN    KXI'LOUATIONS    IN    Tlli';    ICK   ZONKS. 


liis  first  and  serious  loss  in  tiie  di-atli  of  Kud-la-go  bcl'ore  entering  ih.- 
harbor.  Apparently  in  good  liealtjj  when  leiiving  Mew  London,  tiu' 
native  had  contracted  a  severe  disease  wliilst  passing  tluongh  tlie  lo^s 
on  the  Newl'oundhmd  banks,  and  i'a})idly  failed  in  liealth.  His  la^t 
words  wert',  '•''  Teik-ko-neko?  Teik-ko-aeko?''''  (Do  you  see  iee?  Do  yoii 
see  ice?)  'i'liis  he  incessantly  asked,  thinking  he  uiiglit  be  near  his 
home.  He  died  about  three  luiiuh-ed  miles  from  it,  and  was  buried  in 
the  sea  in  latitude  08°  N.  Having  shown  considerable  intelligciici' 
while  in  New  York,  Hall  had  hoped  that  he  wctuld  render  liiiu  iiiin  h 
service  throughout  his  journeys. 

From  Governor  Elborg,  of  liolsteinborg,  some  items  of  interest  wen- 
learned.  The  total  luunber  of  buildings  was  twenty-nine;  the  popula- 
tion in  the  Holsteiid)org  district  one  hundred  iind  ninety-seven,  onlv 
ten  of  whom  were  Europeans.  In  the  preceding  year  the  followiiii; 
amount  of  animal  products  had  been  secured,  chiefly  for  exchange 
will.  Ilie  nuither-country,  Denmark:  Of  reindeer,  three  hundr<'(|  : 
of  seal  blubl)pr,  five  thousand  pounds;  blue  fox-skins  and  white,  twn 
humlrcd  and  iil'ty;  eider  down,  five  hundred  pounds;  and  unsaltcil 
codiish,  four  thousand  pounds.  The  Holsteinborg  district  was  one  nl 
the  five  Danish  divisions  of  Southern  Greenland,  the  total  i)opidaii(iii 
of  the  five  being  six  lunu  >  'd  and  sixty-three  souls. 

The  harbor  of  Holstehiliorg,  called  by  the  English  ships,  "'WyHe 
Fiord,"  is  an  important  place  for  whalers,  being  well  land-locked, 
though  small.  The  I'ise  and  fall  at  spring  tides  of  about  ten  Icti 
affords  every  facility  for  repairing  the  damage  caused  by  the  ice  t" 
shijis.  Landing  is  not  possible  at  all  tinu's  of  tide,  for  "at  high-watii 
mark  a  broad  fringe  of  ice  margins  the  shore,  to  which  it  is  tiniil\ 
frozen,  and  is  convenient  to  step  on  to  from  a  boat;  but  at  low  wadr 
this  'ice-foot'  is  several  feet  above  uiie's  head,  and  the  rocks  new 
exposed  are  worn  smooth  and  slippery  by  the  constant  attrition  of  ice." 
McClintock,  from  whom  this  note  of  the  lauding  is  cited,  had  nindreil 
the  *•  Fox,"  two  years  before,  by  hawsers  to  the  rocks  on  each  side  of  the 
yacht:  yet  his  anchor  lay  in  seventeen  fathoms.  He  found  the  nicun- 
tainous,  rocky  scenery  around  magnificent,  but  remarks  that  a  little 
more  animal  life  would  have  made  it   nutre  pleasing.     \qx\  few  rein- 


suri'Kii  WITH  (i(>\  i:i;n(»i;   klisoik;. 


!»;{> 


(Ifi  r  cniild  Ix'  seen  at  the  time  oi'  his  visit,  and   the   live  hmuln-d  skin? 
only  of  the  year  pi'evious  were  in  ^.*^r()ng  contrast  with   the  thrcr  tiioii 

sail* 


^  -^  . 


■■*  . 


<5ovp:unou  klbouo  in  jus  oo.miak-. 

Frum  McCliiitttck  s  '■  \  .<vu;;i  o!  tin-  Ktjx.  ' 


of  ordi- 
ii;ii\  seasons. 
Till'  little  wood- 
en houses  of  the 
Danish  (iov- 
iTiioi'  and  resi- 
dents were 
i'dund  to  he 
seru  pulously 
neat  and  clean. 
'•  The  men  and 
lads,"  says  Mc- 
Cliiitock,  "em- 
ploy themselves 

ill  hunting  and  fishing;  they  are  too  digiiilicd  and  lazy  to  lahor  in 
idwiiiy;.  so  it  is  among  the  disposahle  young  women  one  must  look 
for  a   boat's   (M'CW." 

In  an  u[)[)er  room  of  the  Governor's  house  overlooking  Davis'  St i aits 
and  the  islands  of  the  harbor,  Hall  found  the  apothecary's  slin|t.  the 
contents  of  which  the  Governor  hims(df  dispenses  when  rctpiircd  :  also 
51  (piantity  of  eider-(U)wn,  like  that  from  which  Dellaven  and  Kane 
had  received  supplies  for  their  beds.  At  supper  he  was  served  to  du(d\, 
salmon,  trout,  eider  ducks'  eggs,  white  flour  bread,  Avitli  butter  and 
Aiiierican  cheese,  Yankee-brewed  rye  li(^uors,  and  good  tea.  Wo  was 
jiresented  with  a  valuable  collection  of  Cirreenland  rock  specinuMis.  and 
ullossii  lish  —  cai)elin  —  (Mallotus  JIUochh),  called  by  the  Greenlanders 
Angmarset;  l)v  the  Danes,  Sild ;  and  by  the  English.  Capelin.  'The 
fish  is  about  six  inches  long,  of  a  l)luisli  biown  (-(dor  on  the  baidc.  and 
silver  white  on  the  belly.  The  fossils  were  found  about  one  Imndred 
miles  up  a  fiord.  McClintock  s[>eaks  of  those  he  had  obtained  as 
heing  of  unknown  geological  date.  The  eartlKpiake  shocks  of  whicdi 
111'  speaks  as  having  been  felt  near  this  harlxtr.  Hall  tlnAight  were  in 
reality  only  the  results  of  the  freezing   in    tli(>   rock   crevices  of  ilie 


I 


t 


Mi 


m 


■  h 

1 

i. 

li^jj  1 

KSKl.Mo   \V(»MAN  AM)  CHILI). 

K.;c-siinilf  (if  u  Woodcut  drawn  uud  i'Mj;raved  by  tlie  Urefidaiider  "Aaron." 

JTU 


TIIK   CKKKM-ANI)    KAYAKKlt 


171 


lllnll 


iitiiiiif 


II 


(>     lio 


tict'd 


scveriil 


ai<it'    rocks, 


tl 


lOUSillK 


Is  (.r  t 


t»iis   m 


\\,it.''lit,  that  had  evident Iv  lallcii  from  the  tops  of  two  lofty  nioiiiitaiiis. 
'rill'  (li'tarht'd  portions  (•orn'S[»oiuh'(l  in  shape  t(»  the  parts  vacated. 
■•Tlic  tremendous  woikinj^s  of  iiatnre  in  these  mountains  of  (irceii- 
IiiimI  diiiin<4'  the  Arctic  winter  often  result.""  he  says,  "  in  what  many 
,,i   \\\o  iidialiitants  think   to  he  cartlKpiaUcs."' 

I'.il'ure  Icavinjn-  the  liarhor,  liall  purchased  six  dotjfs,  selecting  tliem 
;ii  ihe  advice  ol'ljie  (Joveriior,  and  |tayin<;'  for  them  ten  Dainsh,  or  live 
Aiiicrican  dollars;  for  their  food  lie  paid  tweiity-Hve  cents  for  two 
lHi>liels  of  small  drie(|  lisli -- Capelins.  Kayaks  in  lar^c  nundjcrs 
iliiiiccd  aroniid 
the     hoats     of 


American 


;il(pie 


Th 


lii'CC 


I   and   th( 


;ill  o 


f  the  K 
th 


minis  HI   Tlit^St 


\\i 


re  matter  of 


-II  I'prisc 
ker  si 


the 


;i\ii 


nine 


low- 


Ill  mse 


to    ont- 


siii|)     ovcry- 


iiii' 


|)ossil)lo 


KAYAK   SO.MKUSKT. 

Krciin  IIiiir«  "Amii'  Ui'scnrclif*.  "     Iliirpci  Urcitlii 


III      1 


he    idwinq;  of   l)t)ats,  outsich'    of  the    Arctic    reu'ions. 


wo    lare 


sights  were  witnessed.  One  of  the  Eskimos  turned  somersets  in  the 
water  seated  in  his  Kayak.  '"Over  and  over  lie  and  his  Kayak  wx'iit 
lill  he  heard  the  cry,  'Enough,"  and  yet  //*'  /i','f  onJi/  hi.^  hrmJx  ainl 
fm-r .""  The  feat  is  performed  only  hy  a  few:  retjuiring  great  skill  and 
strength  to  do  it.  One  misx  in  the  stroke  of  the  oar  as  they  ])ass  from 
I  he  centre  (when  their  head  and  body  are  under  water)  to  the  surface, 
terminate  fatally.  No  one  will  attem])t  this  feat,  however,  nn- 
iiupanioii  in  his    Kavak  is  near.     The  wetting  of  tlie  hands  and 


iiii'i'iit 


U'ss  a  CI 


ace  on 


ly  is  the  result  of  the   close  littinp;  of  the  sealskin  dress,  which 
■xteiids  from   ahove   the    shoulders  to   the    round    hole  in  w'liich  the 


3 


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1 

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) 

IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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Hiotographic 

Scioices 

Corporation 


33  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M5B0 

(716)  S72-4503 


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1*72 


AMERICAN    EXPLORATIONS   IN    THE    ICE   ZONES. 


Kayaker  sits,  so  thut  no  water  can  enter.  The  first  sight  of  this  Imil 
caused  the  expression  of  McClintock,  "  it  is  wonderful  to  see  imw 
closely  a  man  can  assimilate  himself  to  a  lish." 

The  other  feat  witnessed  was  that  of  a  native  runnitig  his  Kayak. 
while  seated  in  it,  over  another.  Getting  some  distance  off,  he  strikes 
briskly  and  pushes  forward,  and  in  an  instant  is  over,  having  struck 
the  upturned  peak  of  his  own  Kayak,  nearly  amidships,  and  at  riulu 
angles  of  the  other.  The  spectators  rewarded  these  feats  with  a  few 
plugs  of  tobacco.  The  ships'  companies  enjoj-ed  a  cordial  welcome  in 
the  harbor  during  the  seventeen  days  of  their  stay ;  on  the  27th  thcv 
were  in  a  heavy  snow-storm  at  sea  with  many  icebergs  in  sight. 

Two  of  these  came  before  Hall's  fancy  as  belted  and  Gothic  towers. 
The  first  of  these  seemed  like  the  ruins  of  a  lofty  dome  about  to  tijll,  a 

portion  of  its  arched  roof  al ready 
tumbling  down.  "  Then  in  a  shdit 
time,  this  was  changed  to  a  picture 
of  an  elephant  with  two  large  cir- 
cular towers  on  his  back,  and  Coi- 
inthian  spires  springing  out  boldly 
from  the  broken  mountains  of  ahi- 
baster  on  which  he  had  placed  his 
feet.  The  third  view,  when  at  ;i 
greater  distance,  made  it  like  a 
lighthouse  on  the  top  of  the  piled- 
up  rocks,  white  as  the  driven  snow. 
It  took  no  great  stretch  of  fanry 
to  finish  the  similitude  when  the  sun,  for  nearly  the  first  time  duviiit: 
a  week,  burst  forth  in  all  its  splendor,  bathing  with  its  flood  of  li.c 
this  towering  iceberg  lighthouse  !  " 

Of  the  other  iceberg,  the  side  facing  Hall  had  a  row  of  completi- 
arches  of  the  true  Gothic  order ;  and  "  running  its  whole  length,  were 
mouldings,  smooth  projections  of  solid  ice,  rivalling  in  the  beauty  of  all 
their  parts  anything  I  ever  saw.  The  architecture,  frieze,  and  cornice 
of  each  column  supporting  the  arches  above  were  as  chaste  and  accu- 
rately represented  as  the  most  imaginative  genius  could  conceive.   Here 


GOTHIC  ICKBERG. 
From  Ilall'i  "Arctic  Researches."    Harper  Brothen. 


FIRST    IMlMiESSIONS   OF   THE    INNUlTvS. 


173 


;iiii]  tluMe  a  matcliless  perfection  di8j)laye(l  itself,  in  the  curvature  of 
lint  s,  and,  springing  out  from  a  rude  recess,  at  a  vast  height,  appeared 
;i  delicate  scroll  quite  in  keeping  with  Hogarth's  line  of  beauty." 

.Inly  30,  the  "George  Henry"  was  within  three  miles  of  "Sander- 
sdii's  Tower,"  on  the  west  side  of  the  entrance  to  Northumberland 
JiilL't;  August  8,  the  barque  reached  her  anchorage  at  Ookoolear,  the 
Kskimo  name  for  what  has  been  since  known  as  Cornelius  (irinnell 


liilV. 


I'x't'ure  entering  the  b.ay,  a  runawiiy  bojit's  crew  from  the  whaler 
"Aii.-jcll  (Jibbs,"  of  New  Bedford,  was  hailed  on  their  southward  course 
jioiiio.  They  stated,  that  on  account  of  bud  treatment,  they  had  de- 
serted from  the  ship,  at  Kingaite  in  Northumberland  Sound,  and  had 
niii  the  distance  from  that  place  two  hundred  and  fifty  miles,  in  less 
tliaii  three  days.  Captain  Budington  relieved  their  extreme  hunger, 
;iii(l  ill  pit}"^  for  the  necessities  of  the  desert(!rs  furnished  some  supplies 
Idi  their  })erilous  voyage,  which,  according  to  information  received  two 
veins  afterwards,  they  succeeded  in  effecting  to  the  Labrador  coast. 

The  first  impression  made  by  the  natives  around  the  bay  was  of  a 
liivorable  character,  especially  in  reference  to  their  good  nature.  In 
noting  his  impressions.  Hall  quotes  from  the  reviewer  of  an  Arctic 
Ik  ink  a  reference  to  the  Eskimo  race,  as  being  "singular  composite 
lieiiigs,"  —  a  link  between  Saxons  and  seals,  —  hybrids  putting  the 
se.ils"  bodies  into  their  own,  and  then  encasing  their  skins  in  the 
seals,  thus  walking  to  and  fro,  a  compound  formation.  A  transverse 
section  would  discover  them  to  be  stratified  like  a  roly-poly  pudding, 
(inly  instead  of  jam  and  paste,  if  their  layers  were  noted  on  a  perpen- 
dicular scale,  they  would  range  after  this  fashion:  first  of  all,  seal, 
—  then  biped-seal  in  the  centre  with  biped  —  then  seal  again  at  the 
liiittoiii.  Yet,  singularly  enough  these  savages  are  cheerful,  and  really 
seem  to  have  great  capacity  for  enjoyment.  Though  in  the  coldest  and 
\iu»t  uncomfortable  dens  of  the  earth,  they  are  ever  on  the  grin,  what- 
ever befalls  them.  When  they  see  a  white  man  and  his  knick-knacks, 
they  ijfrin.  They  grin  when  they  rub  their  noses  with  snow,  when 
they  blow  their  fingers,  when  they  lubricate  their  hides  inside  and  out 
with  the  fat  of  the  seal.     The  good-naturedness  referred  to  here  was 


•I 


j^l 


^  1 

i  ■  i 

,  t' 
1 1 

i 

;  ■■ 
1  '  ■ 

lililiii 

h  i 


y 
} 

i: 

1* 

\ 

iM 

174 


AMKItK  AN    KXI'LOKATIONS    IN    TIIK    M'K   ZnNKS. 


(>ii(l()rs(Ml  l)y  ilall  iVniii  the  itiitsct  of  liis  ii(-(|(i:)iiitiiiH'('  wiili  the  iMti\i'v: 
I  licii' (itlicr  j^dod  jMiiiits  its  wi-ll  its  (Iflfcls  were,  iis  wniild  lie  r.\|K(it(|. 
iiii|prrss('(|  upon  liiiii  witli  dillriiiij;'  cxin'iiciuts  iiml  iiidniinMits  tlircii^ii- 
•  iiii  his  years  ol'  sdjuiini.  (^iiitc  a  iiiimhci'  of  the  |n'n|il»'  |'i('(|ii('iiti  i| 
the  Iiai(|tic  :  aiiioii^  tlielii  the  wile  dl'  Kud-la-n'o,  w  ho  had  lieaid  on  shoii 
ol'  her  liusliaiid's  (h'atli,  and  whos--  'nars  tlowcd  t'asl  wlicu  she  saw  ili.- 
treasures  whieh  the  dei-easi'd  had  ^allieii'd  in  the  States,  lor  her  ami 
his  little  child. 

()li  the   Itltii,  the  t\V(t  ships  sailed   lor   NM-L;iiiii-liii-ulse,  their  iiileiMlnl 
inter  quarters.      lUd'ore  sailing',  two  other  whalers,  the  '•  IJlack   !• 


w 


a''li- 


til 


iiii 


ll'lc 


and  tiie  "( leori^ianna  liad  eonie  in  lioiii  another  wiialiiiL'"-<;roiiiii| 
'I'lie  harhor  enterr-d  hy  the  "(Jeor^'e  Henry"  was  not  easy  ol"  ar<  iv^ 
hut  safe;  Ilall  i^'ave  it  the  new  name  of  (yriis  \V.  I""ield  IJay.  whiil 
it    retains. 

( )n  t  lie  lilst,  the  "  licseue  "  was  s<'nl    liy  the  captain   to  examine  I  in 
availahility  lor  a  tishiny'  depot  oriiii  inlet  on  t  he  other  side  of   ihc  o,i\ 
and  Ilall  accompaiiiecl  it.  making'  his  liist  \  isii  to  the  scene  ol'  the  1: 
iiiL^s  of  the  voyagers   under  old   Sir   Martin    I-'rohisher,  three   eeiiti 
before.       Here    lie    made    discoveries    of    value:    and    here    he    lost    lii^ 
"  I^\pe(litioii    l)oat,""   tin;  only   means  on   which    he  could  icly    for  ilic 
prosecution   of  his  westward  jiuirueyin^s. 

The  L^ale  wliicli  ln'oiiy'lit  these  disasters  was  a  severe  one.  'riiici 
vessels,  the  '"  IJarciue,"  the  *' IJescue,"  and  the  whaler  "  ( Jeorn'ianii.i  ' 
were  anchored  near  each  other  in  the  liay  Se|)lemlier  "27,  when  tin 
storm  hcuaii :  it  increased  hy  11  i*.  M.  to  a  hurricane.  The  "  Kt'sciie  ' 
after  draii'n'iiiL>'  l'(U'  scuue  hours,  daslied  upon  the  hi'cakers.  a  {(tt;i 
wreck:  the  "•  (ietuuianna  "  struck   heavilv  »»ii  the  lee-shore. 


_   /  -^ 


:     -3 


/ 
/. 


r    I 


Tin:  i:xim;i)1ti<>n  hoat  lost, 


1 1 


Tlall's  boat    was  driven   liiiii   upiui   the  rocks,   nothint;"  hoiny-  after 
ward  found  of  her,  except  lier  stern-post:  hut  Itehire  the  howl  of  tin 
tempest  ended,  lie  was  askintj;"  of  ('a|)tain  J)udin<ftnn  the  loan  of  a  whali 
boat  to  replace  his  loss:  he  was  nnal)le  to  secure  one. 

With  a  party  of  Eskimos,  he  visited  Captain   Parker  of  tlie  "Tiui 
Love,""  an  old  whaler  of  fort\-li\i'  vears"  Aretic  ex!)erienee,  and.  exi»laiii 


it 


J:' 


■  i '  ■ 


■i.  i 


]l 


i  . 


(.1 


.      4 
•      t 


17«i 


AMEIUCAN    EXPLOIIATIONS    IN    TMK    ICE   ZONES. 


iiijr  to  liiin  his  plans  jiiid  the  loss  ot"  his  ex])i'<iition  boat,  iccoivefl  tlic 
ju'oinise  of  one  iuhlitiomil  to  the  whalehoat,  which  he  hoped  to  get  tmiu 
the  "  (jieorge  Henry  "  for  his  westward  voyage.  'J'he  party  were  piloted 
through  a  passage  from  whieh  no  oj)ening  to  the  ship  could  be  m cu 
l)V  the  woman  Nik-u-jar^  who,  knowing  every  channel  and  inlet  within 
two  Imndred  miles  of  the  anchorage,  and  seated  on  the  loggerhead  of 
the  boat,  with  her  pretty  infant  in  her  hood  at  the  back  of  her  mck, 
steered  directly  to  the  spot.     Unfortunately  tiie  'True  Love,"  a  few 

davs  afterward, beiny  (h iv- 
en  from  her  anchorage  liv 
a  gale,  went  off  to  sea,  ami 
Hall  was  thus  disajtjx tint- 
ed both  in  the  loan  nl'  the 
boat,  and  even  in  the  op- 
])ortunity  of  sending  let- 
ters home. 

His  original  plans  \\(nt' 
linally  arrested,  and  his  at- 
tention was  given  dmiuLj 
the  stay  of  the  "Bartpn'"" 
only  to  the  language  and 
habits  of  the  peoj)!!',  tn 
observations  of  natiiial 
phenomena,  and  to  the  dis- 
coveries (d'  the  Frobisher  remains,  and  the  location  of  the  old  attempted 
settlements  under  that  explorer.  The  story  of  these  is  spread  out  in 
an  easy  but  exceedingly  diffuse  style  in  his  "Arctic  Uesearches,'"  the 
thread  of  which  will  now  be  followed. 

Within  the  month  following  +  ',  loss  of  the  boat,  the  native,  V}w- 
bing  (afterward  called  Joe),  with  his  wife,  Too-koo-litoo  (Hannah). 
came  to  the  cabin  of  the  wlialer.  Joe  had  recently  piloted  to  the  Hay 
the  "True  Love"  and  the  "Lady  Celia,"  through  a  channel  more  tiian 
one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  long,  behind  a  line  of  islands  facing  the 
sea.  Too-koo-litoo  at  once  im])ressed  Hall  with  an  expectation  of  vahi- 
able  assistance  from  her,  as  she  as  \\v\\  as  her  husband  appeared  to 


NIK  r.IAI!.  TIIK   lioAI-STKKHKU  AM»  I'M.OT. 

Fioin  llall't)  "Arctic  Hcsoarclu'S."    Harper  Hri)tlu'r>. 


TKMri:i:A  rritr.s  in   NnvKMi»i:i; 


1 


1 1 


|„    iiilclli'^ciil    ;iii(l   spukc    1-jiirlisli   (|iiii('   lliifiilly.      'I'lify  liad  iic(|uiri'(l 
tl;-  1111111  ;i  rt'siilfiicc  I'f  iwciil  y  iimiit  lis  in  I1ii'l;1:iiiiI.      II;iiiii:iIi  itroinpllv 


•I   III 


imU"  Id  Ifiiniiii^  to  icjid  midfr  IliilTs  Icin-liiiij 


\M\ciiil>('r  II*.  the  i'f  IVolil    tlic    lifild  of   tlif  l»il\    l)f<j;ili   to  l)c;ir  dnwii 


m-'i 


I  llu'  ship,  iiiid   Itv  tlir  tiili  111'   ilic  iiioiitli   fnlluwiiin'  slir  w  as   .x'tiilt'i 


KSKlM'i   I"»; 


le 


ill  winter  (luartei's.  'I'lic  tciiipciiitmc  was.  liowcvci'.  +">'.  and  tl 
uciitlicr  niodcrato  and  clear.  Tlie  tcniiicratnrc  of  the  sea-water  No- 
\iiiil)er  :i4tli  was  20°,  and  of  tlie  air  1S^:  tlie  liaroiiieter  i-ead  :2t>-")"). 
Dectinher  <S,  llie  tlionnunieter  was  nt  zero  ;  on  tl-e  iMli  it  was  47"  l)el(»w 
tlic  fre(!/in;4"  point.  The  iei;  was  so'.d  aronnd  llie  sliip,  the  season  not 
uiiiumfortahle.  ])econd)er  20.  the  thonnonieter  I'ead  —V:  on  the  21st, 
-\--lV:  on  the  22d, -"2°  T/.  IJain  on  the  last  of  these  (hiys  destn.yed 
iiiiich   of  the    native   coveriii'''   of  the    /</lnt,.s    ( snow -huts ).  and    the-   ux- 


]f™™ 

)  ! 

\ 

1 

1 

ill 


's'^i 

ir 

1 

( 

•i 

J 

1 

i 

'i 

i 

■'" 

1 

1 

f  ^' 


11!  J'- 


i  1 

i! 
i  i 


'il! 


178 


AMKItK'AN    i:XI'L<»l!ATI(>NS    IN    TMK    ICK    ZONKS. 


t  riionlinarv  niildiicss  of  the  season  prevented  the  usual  liunts.  Tin; 
natives  sullered  iur  supplies.  Januaiv  .*>,  the  theiinonietei'  re^isten d 
(iU°  below  the  freezing  judnt. 


LAMP. 

The  iiit'iiiliiiK  dmii'  hy  Kskinioa. 

sions,  and  sleeping  conitorts;  his  teleseo[)e,  sextant,  therniometcr. 
and  marine  glass;  a  rille,  with  aninmnition ;  and  a  Howditch  Nantiial 
Almanac,  and  other  books.  Too-koo-litoo  at  first  led  the  wa}',  tracking 
for  the  d(tgs,  which  l^bierbing  numaged  well;  but,  on  nearing  tlic 
frozen  waters  of  the  ocean,  where  it  was  necessary  to  lower  the  sleiloc 
to  the  ice.  the  dogs  were  <letaehed,  while  the  woman,  whip  in  liaiul. 
held  on  hy  the  traces,  which  were  from  twenty  to  thii'ty  feet  loiiy. 
The  diilicnlty  of  the  outgoing  tide  being  overcome,  the  party,  under 
the  sanu'  leader,  again  made  some  six  miles  over  the  ice,  and  tindini^ 
good  material  for  building  a  snow-house,  encamped  at  five  V.M.  Tlir 
lifting  up  of  the  igloo  —  always  the  work  of  the  igloo  wife  —  was 
done  by  first  i)lacing  the  stone  lamp  in  its  proi)er  position,  tiiin- 
ming  it.  and  setting  over  it  a  kettle  of  snow;  then  placing  boards 
u])on  the  snow-])latforms  for  beds,  and  sjireading  over  them  the  canvas, 
containing  some  of  a  dry  shrub,  gathered  for  this  purpose,  and  on  tins 


AN     Hi  LOO   <»N    THi;    K'K 


17!» 


the  tiifc-too,  or  roin<leor-skiiis;  over  the  lirc-liuni)  the  wet  clothiii;^  Wiis 
III  lit,'.  l<»  1>('  turned  (luriii<j  the  iiij^ht  by  the  wife's  Wiitchtuhiess.  Fruni 
ilif  raligue  of  the  (hiy  IIiiH's  liist  night  was  iiasscd  in  sunnd  sNu'p, 
(Mil  after  a  dinner  of  raw  salt  pork.  At  nine  the  next  inorniiig  ho 
was  icady  for  a  new  start. 

riic  second  advance  was  one  of  hut  five  miUis,  at  the  end  of  which 
a  new  igU)o  was  built  on  the  'wo,  on  which,  however,  a  strong  gale 
(jctiiined  them   nianv  hours,  and  threatened  destruction  to  the  whole 


STOKM   BOUND. 

Krom  IlaH'B  "Arctic  Krscarihrs."    Harper  Brothers. 


[larty  by  breaking  up  the  floe.  On  the  morning  of  the  third  day  an 
opening  with  a  snow-knife  through  the  dome  of  the  igloo  showed  a 
clear  sky,  but  the  ice  was  moving  in  every  direction,  and  the  snow 
vt  ly  deej).  Travel  became  very  difficult,  nearly  exhausting  them  by 
two  P.M.;  but,  on  finally  reaching  the  shore  ice,  the  party  was  able  to 
encamp  on  Rogers  Island,  alongside  of  another  igloo,  Avhere  refresh- 
ment was  obtained.  In  the  morning  a  lookout  on  the  bay  showed  that 
all  the  ice  on  which  they  had  been  camping  liad  gone  out  seaward. 
Tlicy  had  been  saved. 


■i 


^ 


\ 


'«      I 


v\: 


■     i: 


i  t      ' 


,  i 

1 

i 

i        1 

,1; 

! 

;              i 

1 

i 

! 

; 

1 
1 

ii  k4  i 

H^B' 

1  <i!ili 

m 

SLini^ 

180 


AMKKK'AN    KXI'l.uKATlnNS    IN    TIIK    K'K   /ONKH. 


Tlifi  severity  of  tlie  sinison  which  hud  now  overtaken  him  prevented 
th(!  I'mther  explonitionH  whieh  Hull  hojied  to  make,  and  this  lirst  of  iii> 
i\nti('  rx|)erienee8  ontside  of  the  (Mynlorls  of  the  shi])  proved  to  be  ;i 
siiar))  cliseipline.  Uurinj;  the  forty-three  <hiys  thus  spt!nt  he  snlfcnd 
seveiely  fioin  the  Wiuil  ol"  fond,  as  well  as  from  ex|)osure.  On  llic 
null  he  sii|ip('d  on  niw,  frozt-n  whah'-hide,  the  next  id^ht  all  that  Im 
had  in  eal  was  l»la(d<  whale-skin,  and  he  lonjfcd  rvcii  Inr  more  of  I  In 
hlaekeiHMl  si^raps,  saved  lor  the  d^<^^s.  i)nt  whieh  were  swall(»wed  wlailc 
hy  ii  nativtMvoman.  lie  kept  himself  at  times  fr(»m  free/injjf  only  l»v 
silling  in  IxmI  with  niiieh  fur  around  him.  and  yet  lie  wrote  his  juuinal 
with  the  thermometer  at  zero  inside  the  i<;h>(),  outside  at  — lio"  to  -i)'!'. 
I'artial  relief  eanu!  by  supplies  received  through  I-^hicrbint''  from  the 
ship  and  from  a  seal  eaught  by  him.  His  iirst  atten)|)ts  at  a  return 
to  the  ship  were  arrested  by  his  extreme  weakness,  for  the  Arctic 
ex|)osure  of  his  life  thus  far  had  bef:;un  to  tell  uj)on  him,  but  on  tlir 
21st  he  sueceeded  in  jjetting  on  board.  Tie  considered  that  his  sojouin 
had  i;iven  him  valtiable  exju'rience;  and  lookin<;'  baek  (»n  it  al'tn- 
ward.  he  says  "he  enjoyed  it,  being  as  ha[)py  as  eireumstanees  wouM 
j)ermit.'" 

On  his  return  to  the  "(xeorge  Henry,"  the  iirst  night  was  a  slee]tl('ss 
one,  the  change  from  the  ])ure  atmosphere  of  the  sn(tw-bouse  to  tlic 
eonliiH'd  air  of  the  cabin  bringing  to  him  "a  sweating  ])rocess,"  with 
suffering.  On  his  recommendation  to  send  two  ol"  the  crew,  seriously 
alllieted  with  scurvy,  to  stay  with  the  Inniiits  and  live  exclusively  on 
fresh  meat,  walrus,  and  seal,  Ca])tain  Hudington  sent  them  to  the 
fiiends  whom  Hall  had  made  at  Oopungnewing,  seventeen  miles  dis- 
tant. Hut  the  two  men  soon  tired  of  igloo-life,  and  at  their  first  relitl' 
from  sickness  set  out  to  return  to  the  barque :  one  of  them,  persistently 
holding  on  his  course  and  leaving  his  Tnnuit  companions,  lost  his  way 
in  the  snow,  and  after  a  long  search  Avas  found  frozen  dead. 

SPRING    EXCURSIONS. 

April  22,  1861,  the  extreme  severity  of  the  season  having  passed. 
Hall  set  out  on  a  second  excursion  to  explore  the  land  on  what  was 
marked  on   the    charts   as    Frobisher's    Straits.      His   companion   was 


TIIK    PISCOVKKV   OK    l-lCnlUSIIKU    UAV, 


ISl 


Kiiojcssc,  ii   iiiilivc    well   iic(|iiiiiMtcil    with   llir   ciiiiiitiN .   ulio   liad   iiiiulc 
III    liiin  oiic  1)1   tlic  aliiinst   iiivaiiiilily  iiiriinitr  iiiili\r  ( 


liiiiis.      As  til 


ii:i\fl  was  to  Ix' oil   loot  ovcf  tlic   iff.  llalTs  li_t,'lil   (Miiiipiuf iit    lor  tlif 
|,,iiiiicv  was  atlaclu'd    to   liitii    by  a   siia[»   jiassing   «i\i-r  liis  shouMfis 


iitross 


his  Ill-cast,  and  down  th(^  hack 


was 


'I'lic  tiiivellt'iH  crossed  Field  Hay,  thence  ov(M  a  t'ati^uinj;  inoiiiitaiii 
|i;iss  tliroujjjh  a  niaj^nilicciit  }4<»rj;'e  liclwceii  hi<;h  rocks,  and  thciici!  aloii^ 
;i  siiiall  inlet  of  the  Countess  of  W'aiwick  Sound,  where,  n|ion  an 
iiliiii|)t  turn,  they  cau»^ht  si<fht  of  the  water.  In  the  distaiicc  were  the 
[icaks  of  J7«'^(  7*«('y///<<7a.  The  natives  ht'ie  lirst  told  Hall  of  the  t ra- 
dii ions,  that  white  nu;n,  a  lon^  time  a^'o,  had  masted  a  ship  at  this  spot. 
Tliis  first  intimation  of  the  times  of  old  l-'roliishei',  three  centniies 
111  lore,  was  excitinj;';  still  more  so,  liowcver,  was  the  demonstration 
I  lie  day  following;,  that  the  so-t-allcd  strait  was  in  reality  a  hay.  lie 
hiid  expected  to  pass  throu<jfh  this  opening'  westward,  in  the  pi'<isecution 
(li  his  original  plan  for  the  search  of  Franklin's  men  ;  but  helore  his 
f\fs  lay  the  open  waters  of  a  hay,  its  surface  dotle(|  over  with  lloating 
liKikcn  ice.  A  week  further  was  passed  in  making  further  invest iga- 
limis,  ma)i[iing  the  locality,  and  afcinatfly  placing  on  recurd  all  that 
su[)i)ose(l  to  bear  on  Krobishers  Fxpedition,  the  time  being  spent 
cliiclly  in  u  sn  'W-village  of  ••  pun;  while  igloos." 

During  the  next  month  a  larger  number  of  traditionary  items  were 
(ihtained  from  tlie  natives,  in  regard  to  the  old  Kx[)edition;  chielly 
ridiii  the  age(l  grandmother  of  Ebierbing,  wliose  name  was  Ookijoxky- 
Ninoo.  Too-kcjo-litoo  was  the  inter[)reter  In^tween  Hall  and  this  native, 
the  sulistance  of  whose  statement  was,  that  fre([uently  in  her  lifetime 
she  had  seen  on  the  neighboring  island  of  Ni-onn-tilik,  coal,  bric^ks,  and 
huge  ])ieces  of  very  heavy  stone,  black,  siudi  as  no  Innuits  had  ever  seen 
lief(>re :  that  she  had  heard  from  old  Innuits,  that  "  many,  many  years 
ago,  "shiiis  had  oome  with  Kod-lu-nas  aboard,  two  lirst  coming,  then  two 
er  three,  and  then  very  many;  that  five  white  men,  cajitured  by  Inniiit 
pcojile,  had  lived  among  them  till  the  next  opening  season,  and  then 
left  the  eountry  in  a  large  boat  which  they  had  built  with  masts  and 
sails;  and  that  the  Kod-lu-nas  had  killed  sonu;  Innuits  and  carried  off 
(ithcrs.     The  very  heavy  stones,  of  which  the  old  woman  spoke,  Hall 


ii 


Ji 


. 


i:Hl., 


lilli 


l|.l 


ill 


ISi' 


AMi;i:ir.\N  kxi'I-huations  rs  nii;  ki:  zonks. 


at  uiict'  iliiiiiu|||  iiiiisi  lie  irnii.  ami  i''il)ici'l)iii;4' and  Too-koo-littM)  tlioiii^lit 
s(»  Ion.  'I'licy  wcrt'  the  only  Inmiits  who,  liaviii^  visit«'(|  Mnj^laml,  it.  ■ 
ntriii/.cil  till'  ItrjrUs,  and  liad  tlicinsclvrs  .scrii  lliciii.  'I'liis  inroniiat ion. 
drawn  iVoni  a  woiiian  a|>|i(  ariii^r  to  Itc  at  least;  a  liiindr«'d  years  of  a<^< . 
siilllieed  lor  Hall's  deteiniiiiat ion  to  visit  Ni-otin-tilik.  It  set  liis  iniinl 
npoii  I  he  |iossil)ilily  of  valiialile  discoveries  in  a  land  wliere  he  h.i'i 
idread\  ''olleeted  a  ehail  ol' its  waters.  I  le  was  astonished  at  the  |MiW(r 
of  iiieiiioiy  and  the  reiiiarkahle  way  in  which  the  |ieo|ile  of  the  icv 
North  could  |)reseive  history  iVoin  one  ;^'eiieiat  ion  to  another,  withoiil 
a  written  lan<;'iiaL!'e.  Me  was  also  coiilirnieij  in  the  lieliel'  that  he  coiijil 
cerlaiiny  learn  I'roni  such  |ieo|ile  the  late  of  the  lost  I'olar  l^xpedition. 
.\s  he  had  iiow  luit  little  hope  of  seciirino'  on  this  voyage  a  hoat  Imi' 
Kin;;-  WilliaiiTs  Land,  or  at  least  of  scttiiiii;'  out  westward  until  lai.- 
in  the  season,  he  deteriiiine(|  to  visit  the  waters  which  he  justly,  iVoin 
that  date,  names  only  as  l-'roUislicr  l>ay. 

e  set    out    Iroin  the  ship  with   dot;s  and  slcdp'.  aceom- 


Mi 


IV  -J* 


II 


panied  In  I'llticrhin^'  and  two  of  the  native  women,  and  on  this  lirsl  ni' 
a  seiio  of  shoit  journeys  to  the  hay,  toiiiid  senile  additi(»nal  links  to  the 
l*'rol)islier  I'Apedition.  lie  als(»  heard  one  story,  his  report,  of  whiili 
reaching  the  I'liitiMl  States  was  al'terwards  rej^rctted  l>y  hinisell"  ami 
otheis.  It  seemed  to  iiidii-ate  the  wreck  of  I'^rankiin's  ships  in  this 
region.  l)nl  was   the   true   ae<'oiint   of  the  wreck   oi"  a    liritish  whaler. 

DmiiiL;'  the  imnitli  of  .Inne  a  second  exciirsicMi  was  made,  on  which 
Hall  \i>ited  the  north  Fcncland  of  I-'roljisher ;  and  in  .Inly,  the  ship 
having'  Icit  her  aiichora^'c  in  search  of  whales,  he  took  up  his  ahodc 
with  l""d)ierltiii!4'  on  shoi'c,  and  with  him  I'cnewed  his  explorations  ol'  the 
countiy.   lindinn"    '*"    ''••'^    irip.s  pieces    of  sea-cual,    furtlicr    contirmiiiL; 


the  old  Iraditiot 


IS, 


To  satislV  liiiusolf  more  riuidlv,  lie  duu'  down   inii 


the  centre  of  a  coal-heaj),  "aroniid  and  l>eiioath  clods  of  tliickly-inattc(l 
^rass,  around  and  beneath  stunted  willow,  and  'erowberry'  slirnhs. 
around  and  beneatli  mosses,  and  wherever  ho  made  tliese  examinations, 
be  found  coal.  Many  places  overo-rown  with  yrass  be  examined,  dii;- 
gino-  down  a  dej)tli  of  several  incbes  and  overturnino-  sods  exliibitiiii; 
coal  at  tbe  base,  tben  a  layer  of  sand  and  coal,  then  unotber  layer  of 
two  or  tbree  incbes  of  sand  overlapped  by  interbicked  roots,  whence 


1  ,' 

I! 


W 


PASSINti   TIlKOL'tiH    I.^PTON    <'II  \NNK 
friMii  Hull  i  •Arilii:  lU'Scurchta. '    IlariKT  Urotlicrii. 


1 


i 


,   *   V, 


iii^ 


hi  I 


I    ■  'f 

,      r 


184 


A.MKIMCAN    l-:Xi'L(»i:ATl()NS    IN    TUK    |CK    ZONKS. 


exteiuU'd  tlirii'ty  grass.  The  roots  oi"  the  stunted  willow.  Iiiilf  an  in,!, 
ill  (liaiiieter  at  the  l)ase  of  the  tniiik,  pierced  down  into  the  sand  ami 
theiue  into  coal!  On  examination  of  many  ]tieees  of  eoal,  bedded- 
some,  iu  grass,  some  in  sand,  and  some  in  moss  —  the  u\)\h-v  side  .  \. 
posed  to  the  air,  was  found  to  be  covered  witii  ])ellicles  of  black  iii.is>, 
such  as  one  iinds  upon  the  rocks  of  ages." 


INHIAN   SUMMER   VILLAGE. 
From  nail's  "Arctic  Researches."    Ilo'iicr  Brothers. 

Tliis  convinced  him  that  tliis  coal  had  lain  there  for  centuries ;  and 
by  other  strong  indications  he  was  justified  in  referring  it  to  the 
Frobisher  voyages  of  looT-looO.  During  the  month  of  August,  he 
completed  the  survey  of  the  bay  he  had  now  discovered. 

An  interesting  boat-voyage  was  made  on  this  exploration.  He  ieti 
the  ship  Avith  three  natives  and  their  wives,  encountering  at  first  nuuli 
ice  driven  in  from  the  Straits,  and  u  thick  fog,  and  in  the  eveninu 
reached  the  entrance  of  Lupton  Channel,  through  wliich  a  strong  tide 
was  running  into  Field  Bay,  "foaming,  whirling,  roaring,  and  boilinu 


stnngs  str 


NKW    KIsroVKIMKS. 


IH.") 


Ha^fc^MP*^ 


-I^^Mpa^; 


|il<,  I  liiiildroM  ; '"  l)y  (lint  of  liurd  |»nlliiiLr  tlic  boat  j^ot  tlin»n<;li.  In 
;i  iii|.ik  on  shore,  after  i  good  sn|>|)fr  on  seals,  dncks.  and  colVec. 
(•(Kikt'il  with  wood  from  the  wreekt-d  ship  " 'rravcMer,"'  the  jKUty  weic 
cldsilv  jtucked  for  the  nii;ht. 

W'hiU?  passino-  throngh  iJear  Sonnd.  Hall  witnessed  a  novel  nKMlr 
(iT  securing;  dneks.  Whenever  one  of  the  lloek  which  had  dived  on  ihc 
watrr  poj)ped  up  its  head,  the  Innuits  made  a  great  noise  throwing' 
;i'iiiut  their  hands  and  arms  to  frighten  tlie  bird  down  again,  and  re- 
|ic;itnig  this  same  noise  and  frantie  gestuiH's  withont  a  moment's  breatli- 
iiii^-tinie  for  the  terrilied  dnek,  until  in  about  seven  minutes  it  eame 
tn  ihe  stu'laee 
11 1 1  (■  r  1  y  e  X- 
liiiiisted,  and 
\\;is  easily  ea])- 
lured.  I»ylhis 
|i  r  (» (■  •'  s  s  o  i 
(I  r  (I  w  n  i  n  g 
iliirks.  (piite  a 
iiiiiiiber  were 
scciiicMl  amid 
tilt'  boisterous 
iiicrriiiiciit  of 
llie  natives,  whleh  was  eehoetl  from   the   roeks  of  the   Sound. 

At  a  native  summer  village  visited  on  the  route,  the  women  were 
t'ouiid  busily  ooeui)ied  in  sewing  up  skins  to  make  a  /cui.  The  covering 
(if  the  boat  was  hung  over  a  pole  resting  on  the  roeks,  everything  being 
k(>pt  wet,  while  the  women  worked  their  sewing  by  large  braided  thread 
(if  white  whale-sinews.  Venison  and  seal  meat  were  lumg  to  dry  on 
strings  stretched  along  the  ridge  of  eaeh  tupik  ;  at  tliat  season  [)rovis- 
iiiiis  were  abundant. 

In  September,  the  most  interesting  discoveries  were  made.  On  the 
top  of  liishop's  Island,  from  which  the  whole  coast  could  be  seen,  were 
tnuiid  the  ruins  of  u  liouse,  which  had  been  built  of  stone,  cemented 
with  lime  and  sand,  every  part  of  it  being  covered  with  old  moss,  and  on 
tlie  north  side  of  the  Island  was  found  an  excavation,  wliich  was  called 


TllK  TKENCII.  ONK  "F   F1!01USIIKKS   "(ioI.O   .MINKS." 

Kriiiii  U:ill's  ".Xn  til-  |{r»iiiirlii'«."     Il'irpi  I' lirnlliiTS. 


'11 


1 


n 


i     ! 


ih(; 


AAlEiaCAX    EXPLORATIONS    IX    THK    ICE   ZONES. 


ji  shii/s  trench,  for  the  Jniuiits  said  that  was  where  a  shij)  had  been 
built  by  white  ineu.  It  had  been  dug  out  of  stone,  whiiJi  was  of  sucli 
a  nature  as  to  yield  to  the  persevering  use  of  piek-axe,  sledge-haiinnei', 
and  the  crowbar.  The  bottom  of  the  trench,  which  was  one  huinhcd 
and  ten  feet  in  length,  was  an  inclined  plane,  running  from  the  siirl'iicc 
of  the  ground  to  a  depth  of  twenty -five  feet  at  the  water's  edge. 

From  what  Hall  saw  he  was  fully  convinced  that  very  many  yours 
ago,  men  of  civilization  did  live  on  this  island,  called  by  the  Innuits 
Kodlunarn^  and  that  they  built  a  vessel,  probably  a  schooner,  tluiv. 
The  trcjich  b}  the  shore,  on  the  inclined  plane,  was  such  as  is  used  in 
building  a  ship  on  stocks  ;  there  were  ruins  of  three  stone  houses.  Ix'sidcs 
coal,  ilint-stone,  fragments  of  tile,  glass  and  pottery,  and  large  niassus 
of  iron  pyrites  or  bisulphide  of  iron.  The  finding  of  this  and  its  signi- 
ficance can  be  gathered  from  the  following  facts:  Of  the  one  huiKJitd 
men  sent  out  from  Enghxnd  with  Frobisher  in  1578,  the  majority  weic 
•'miners,"'  sent  for  the  express  purpose  of  digging  for  the  "rich  on'" 
of  which  Frobisher  had  carried  specimens  home  on  his  return  ridiii 
his  second  voyage, — the  ore  being  supposed  to  be  very  valuable,  tlic 
miners  made  proofs  in  va  •  '-  parts  of  the  regions  then  discovcicd. 
It  was  some  of  these  pro  V:  "^h.^'^h  had  now  been  found,  and  lluy 
showed  that  Hall  had  bee.«  jn  the  precise  spot  of  the  Countess  of 
Warwick's  mine.  Delighted  with  these  discoveries,  and  gatluMino- 
up  as  many  relics  as  he  could  carry  in  his  old  stockings,  mittens. 
luit,  and  everything  that  would  hold  them  safely,  he  labelled  each 
article  and  returned  to  his  companions  in  the  boat,  on  tlie  "27tli. 
regaining  the  shij)  in  Parker's  Bay.  The  company  were  warmly 
welcomed,  as  both  the  ship's  crew  and  Innuits  had  scarcely  exjiected 
his  safe  return  in  the  leaky  whaleboat  of  their  journey.  Hall  liiid 
with  him  Sir  John  Barrow's  "Chronological  History,"  which  gave 
him  in  substance  tliis  account  of 


i 

i- 

1 

■ 

■ 

,1 

i 

1        !  ^^^1  i 

iMi  ' 

iiy|Un|Li .  h 

frorlsher's  three  voyages. 

In  tlie  year  157r).  by  tlie  countenance  and  assistani^e  of  Dudlcv. 
Earl  of  Warwick,  and  a  few  friends,  Frobisher  was  able  to  fit  out  two 
small  barks,  the  ''  Gabrie^  "  of  thirty-five,  and  the  "  Michael  "  of  thirty 


fkohisher's  "fool's  gold. 


187 


tons,  tof'ether  with  a  i)iniiaee  of  ten  tons.  With  this  little  squadron 
li,.  iiiciiared  to  set  out  on  his  important  expedition,  and  on  the  8th 
of  Juno  passed  Greenwich,  where  the  court  then  was,  "'id  Queen 
Kli/,;il)i'th  bade  tliem  farewell  by  shaking  her  hand  at  them  out  of  the 

Avillili'W. 

.Inly  111  1570,  the  ships  came  in  sight  of  Friesland,  rising  like 
piuuiicles  of  steeples,  and  all  covered  with  snow.  This  islaml,  whose 
posifiiiH  has  80  greatly  puzzled  ffeogra})he7's,  could  not  be  the  Friesland 
of  Zeiio,  but,  being  in  61°  of  latitude,  was  evidently  the  southern  part 
(,f  (iit'cnland.  The  floating  ice  obliged  Frobisher  to  stand  to  the  south- 
west, till  he  got  sight  of  J^abrador,  along  the  coast  of  which  he  then 
>t(i(iil  to  the  westward,  but  could  neither  reach  the  land,  nor  get  sound- 
iii(fs  on  account  of  the  ice.  Sailing  to  the  northward  he  met  with  a 
(ricat  ishitid  of  ice,  which  fell  in  pieces,  making  a  noise  as  it  a  great 
(liifc  had  fallen  into  the  sea.  After  this  he  entered  a  strait  in  lat. 
ii:r  .*>'.  This  strait,  to  which  his  name  was  given  from  his  being  its  first 
(lisiovcrer,  is  the  same  which  was  afterwards  named  Lumley's  Inlet, 
Imt  Krobisher's  Strait  was  for  a  long  time  supposed  bg  geographers  to 
hiirr  cut  off'  a  portion  from  Old  Greenland^  till  Mr.  Dalrym[)le  and 
(ithcrs  showed  the  fallacy  of  such  a  supposition.  .  .  . 

Frohisher  set  sail  for  England  and  arrived  at  Harwich  on  the  2d 
of  October,  'highly  commended  by  all  men  for  his  greate  and  notable 
atrcni))!,  —  but  si)ecially  famous  for  the  great  hope  he  brought  of 
the  passage  to  Cathaia.'  That  hope,  however,  would  probably  have 
(lit'd  away,  but  for  an  accidental  circumstance  which  had  been  dis- 
iVL;ai<k'(l  during  the  voyage.  Some  of  the  men  had  brought  home 
tlowi'is,  some  grass,  and  one,  a  piece  of  stone  'much  like  a  sea  cole  in 
cnlor.'  merely  for  the  sake  of  the  place  from  whence  they  came.  A 
I'itci'  (if  this  black  stone  being  given  to  one  of  the  adventurers'  wives, 
liy  uliance  she  threw  it  into  the  fire,  and,  whether  from  accident  or 
curiosity,  having  quenched  it  while  hot  with  vinegar,  '  it  glistened  with  a 
liiight  marquesset  of  golde.'  The  noise  of  this  incident  was  soon  spread 
aliroad,  and  the  stone  was  assayed  by  the  'gold  finers  of  London,'  who 
iv|iortod  that  it  contained  a  considerable  (quantity  of  gold.  A  new 
Voyage  was  immediately  set  on  foot  for  the  following  year,  in  which 


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188 


AMKKICAN    EXPLORATIONS    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZONKS. 


we  are  told  by  Master  George  Heste,  Frohisher's  I^ieutenant,  that  the 
Captaine  was  specially  directed  by  coininissioii  to  search  for  nioir  of 
the  j?old  ore  rather  than  for  the  Northwest   l*assa<:fe. 

SK<'ONI)    VOYACJK,  (loTT). 

Frobisher  was  now  ojienly  coiintcnaiieed  l)v  (^ueeii  Klizabctli.  iml 
on  takiii"'  leave  for  his  Second    Voifatje  had  the  honor  of  kissing;  Ik  r 
majesty's    hand,  who  dismissed  "him  with  gracious  countenance  and 
comfortable  words.      1I(!  was  besides  furnished  with  one  tall  shi|)  ni 
her  Majesty's,  named  '  y"  Ayde  '  of  two  hundred  tuiinc.  or  thereabouts; 
and    two    other  Utile    barks   likewise,  the    one    called    the   •(J:d)ri(ll. 
whereof  Master    Fenton  was  Captaine :    and  the   other  the  '.MiuJiatl. 
whereof  Master  York,  a  otMitleman  of  my  Lord    Admirall's,   was  (\i|,- 
taine,"  those  two   vessels    weic   about   thirty  tons  each.     On  the  27(li 
May  (1577),  having  received  tlm  Sacrament  aiul  pre))ared   thcul^(■lv(-^ 
"as  good  Christians  toward  (iod,  and  resolute  mcii   foi-  all   rorinncs." 
they  left  (iraveseiul.  and  after  a  long  passage  fell   in  with  Frieslaiid,  in 
lat.  00^°,  on  the  4th  of  'hdy,  the  mountains  covered  with  snow,  and  ww 
coast  almost  inaccessd)le  from  the  great  (pumtity  of  drift  ice.  .  .  . 

Four  days  were  here  spent  in  vain  endeavor  to  land,  after  which 
they  stood  for  the  strait,  discovered  by  them  the  2>i"eceding  year,  flicy 
arrived  oft"  the  nortli  foreland,  otherwise  Hall's  island,  so  called  alter 
the  man  who  had  picked  up  the  golden  ore,  and  who  was  now  niastei 
of  the  "  Gabrielle."  They  proceeded  some  distance  up  the  Strait. 
when,  on  the  18th  of  July,  the  general  taking  the  gold  finers  with  him. 
landed  near  the  spot  where  the  ore  had  been  picked  up,  but  could  imi 
find  in  the  whole  island  "a  piece  as  bigge  as  a  walnut,"  but  all  the 
neighboring  islands  are  stated  to  have  good  store  of  the  ore.  On  the  loji 
of  a  high  hill,  about  two  miles  from  the  shore,  "they  made  a  cohnime 
or  crosse  of  stones,  heaped  up  of  a  good  height  together  in  good  sort. 
and  solemidy  sounded  a  trumpet  and  saide  certaine  prayers,  kneeliiiijf 
about  the  ensigne,  and  honored  the  place  b}''  the  name  of  Moiiiii 
Warwicke.  .  .  .  They  now  stood  over  to  the  southern  shore  of  I'ln- 
bisher's  Strait,  and  landed  on  a  small  island  with  the  gold  Hneis  tn 
search  for  ore  ;  and  here  all  the  sands  and  eliffes  did  so  glister,  auu  hiul 


WIJEC'K    OV    Fll0131SllI<:i;"s    KHiET.  189 

so  bnulit  a  inarquesite,  that  it  seemed  all  to  be  golde,  but  upon  tryall 
iiiiiil  ,  it  proved  no  better  than  black  lead  and  veritied  the  proverbc  :  — 
•  all  is  not  golde  that  glistcreth.'  "... 

As  the  season  was  far  advanced  and  the  General's  commission  directed 
liii.i  1(1  search  for  gold  ore,  and  to  defer  the  further  discovery  of  the 
|),iss>i'4t'  till  another  time,  they  set  about  the  lading  of  the  ships,  and  in 
ilii;  spiice  of  twenty  days,  with  tlie  help  of  a  few  genthMuen  and  soldiers 
ndt  oil  board  almost  two  hundred  tons  of  ore.  On  the  22d  of  August, 
alter  making  bf»iifires  on  the  highest  mount  (Ui  this  island,  and  tiring  a 
vull(\  lor  a  farewell  "in  honor  of  the  Right  lion.  Lady  Anne  Countess 
,ii  W'arwicke,  whose  name  it  beareth,"  they  set  sail  homewards,  and 
alit  1  I  stormy  jtassagc,  llu-y  all  arrived  safe  in  different  ports  of  (Jreat 
liritain,  with  the  loss  of  only  n\n>  man  by  sickness,  and  another  wlu) 
was  washed   overboard.   ... 


;;i! 


THIltl)   VOYAGE   (18o7). 

'llic  (^iieen  and  her  court  were  so  highly  delighted  "in  finding  that 
tiif  matter  of  the  gold  ore  had  appearance,  and  made  show  <»f  great 
riches  and  profit,  and  the  hope  of  the  passage  to  Cathaia  by  this  last 
vnya'^'e  greatly  increased:"  that  after  a  minute  examination  by  Com- 
iiiissioiiers  specially  appointed,  the  voyage  was  determined  to  be  higlily 
wmiliy  of  being  followed  up.  The  Queen  gave  the  name  of  Meta 
hi(  iiuiiita  to  the  newly-discovered  countr}',  on  which  it  was  resctlved  to 
(■>uil)lish  a  eolony.  .  .  .  The  fleet  sailed  from  Harwich  the  olst  May, 
1"i7n.  and,  on  the  20th  of  June  discovered  West  Friesland,  which  they 
iinw  named  West  England.  .  .  .  Thc}^  found  the  Strait  choked  up 
\\\\\\  ire,  and  the  l)ark  "Dennis""  received  such  a  blow  with  a  rock 
(if  i<('  that  she  immediately  sank,  but  the  i)eople  were  all  saved.  A 
violent  storm  now  came  on  and  the  whole  fleet  was  dispersed.  .  .  . 
Tlioy  all,  however,  arrived  at  various  ports  of  England  about  the 
1st  of  October,  with  tlie  loss  by  death  of  about  forty  persons. 

NEW    HOPES. 

Ihe  investigations  which  Hall  had  now  made  in  connection  with  the 
tniditions  received  iV(»ni  the  natives,  were  a  large  compensation  for  the 


■\  ^ 


itil 


!  ■ 


y 


S  f 


,y:  t. 


Win 


UH 


190 


AMEinCAN    liXI'LoHATIONS    IN    Till',    l(  T,   /.OMOM. 


(lisappniutnu'Mt  of  his  (irst  plmiH.  Ilo  hogaii  lo  (liiiik  (hut  li«<  mii^Ih 
\v\  hope  t\)r  the  rcjiliziitittii  of  those  oiirlicr  (hvsigns,  iiii<l  (lia(  llicsc  ,||s. 
covciios  would  assist  liini  toward  seeming  (lie  iiieaiiH  for  their  jtrKsc,  n. 
lion.  The  whaU'r  inlemh'd  lo  nMiirn  lo  the  I'lutcd  Stales  on  the  Jotli 
of  Oetoher.  hut  a  solid  pack  being  se<Mi  in  Davis"  Strait  siie  found  Ik  i  .  || 
iee-iniprison(>d  for  the  wintef.  Captain  lludington  expressed  his  tii, inks 
to  Hall  for  his  diseoverv  of  this  pack,  without  the  kn<iwledge  cif  wlmli 
he  had  Ihmmi  ahout  lo  weigh  anchor,  iid  woidd  have  heen  eaught  m  ih,. 
paek  wilhiMil  the  power  o\'  retreat. 

The  remaining  months  of  the  autumn  of  iSdl  ami  the  winter  follow. 
ing  (Muhraeed  the  usual  routine  of  Arelie  life  of  the  season.  Mall  li.id 
opp«U'tuniti(>s  «»f  adding  to  the  Iradilionarv  information  he  had  galln nd 
on  this  point  of  st»  mueh  histoiic  interest.  AeeustonuMl  I»y  this  lime  lu 
the  exposures  of  an  Arelie  wintei',  and  ha\ing  made  sulheient  ad\;iii(i' 
ii\  his  us(>  o(  Inuuit  words  to  put  (piestions  to  the  natives  and  nihlci- 
staud  many  o\'  their  i'epli(>s.  his  dilVunilties  h>ssened,and  his  oecup.iiiniis 
brought  to  him  ineri'asing  interest  and  value. 

'I'lu^  ship's  eompany  w»M'e  not  fully  supplied  with  |)rovisions  l.ii  n 
seeond  wint(M-.  but  uere  ma(h>  eond'orlable  by  the  labors  of  the  Iniiints 
in  lh(Mr  hunts  of  th(<  s(»al  and  the  walrus.  On  th(>  oe«'asions  of  tliciitrn  ,il 
performauees  on  board,  the  Innuits  crowded  in,  freipicnlly  aiuusinL;  ilic 
erew  by  their  pcu'forniances  o\\  the  Key-low-tik,  and  the  superstitions  o\' 
the  Au-ge-ko  —  customs  which  will  be  described  hereafter. 

In  the  middle  of  Dej'cndier,  the  tlKM'ininnettM-  being  20°  below  /cni. 
Hall  made  an  excursion  of  a  week  to  the  point  named  .lon(>s'  ('ii|ii'. 
He  notes  a  singular  incident  oci'urring  to  his  dog-team.  "When  iIkv 
}mt  their  feet  into  the  snow  and  seu-waler,  it  was  like  sh'pping  inic  ii 
Hood  of  molten  gold,  and  the  phos|>hoveseent  light  thus  produced  was 
not  c«uitined  to  the  s]xice  beneath  the  dogs  and  the  sleds,  but  spn  ad 
itself  around  and  continued  for  several  seconds." 

The  season  was  not  without  an  experience  of  suffering  by  the  natives 
rliomselves:  several  dying  from  the  disease  of  ej)nsnmption,  and  a  num- 
ber of  their  toils  and  hunts  being  made  without  success.  Tiny  re- 
ceived among  them  at  different  limes  one  or  two  of  the  ship's  new" 
sent  to  recover  their  health  on  ii;loo  food. 


NATIVK    III  T-IUMMHN«J. 


191 


III  llirnirly  pari  orilic  s|iriii,i,Mir  lHtl2,  Hall  ititwciI  liis  cxiilnriilinnH 
ill  .iiiij  iu'oiind  tlic  liai'lM)!',  iiiiil  ii|)<mi  Koil-lii-narii  i|isci>vt>r<'il  :i<lililioii)il 
icjiis  III"  ihr.  h'rohisliri'  l'lx|MMlilinii,  ntid  (lie  tiiiccs  ol'  nM  Idarksiiiillis' 
I'lini.ii  rs  imkI  rui|rcs.  /\|iril  I,  lie  liail  ii^rain  Irl't  tlir  sliiji  in  ('iiiii|)aiiy 
willi  Iniir  nl'  liiM' crew  and  Unw  IniniilH  in  ii  wli'drliniit,  liaviii;^^  wliidintr 
;i|i|i,ii;il  MS  laslicd  In  ii  sled,  wliicli  a  ijnud  Irani  nl'  nineteen  dujrs  was  lo 
(|r;iM.  ijeaeliin^  (li<'  native  village  no|>nn}^iie\vin^  in  nine  liimis,  tin  y 
rniiml  siiiiie  (»r  tlie  wlialei's  crew  livinLJ  there,  iind  in  i^ntod  liealtli,  and 
II, ill  liiiiiMeir  remained  tlieie  fur  some  days.  I{esnniin<^f  Ids  tii|i  lie  went 
mil  on  lliesea-iee,  making  ^ood  advanee  willi  ii  wled  heavily  laden  witli 
/,,-//•  (  wall  ns-hide  ),  and  at  lonr  r.M.  tested  in  an  if^lno. 

lll'ILMIN<i    AN    lULOi). 

'I'lie  natives'  mode  of  hnildinj^f  these  was  as  lullows:  —  '*  They  first 
sdiiiided  or  '  prosjiecteir  the  snow  with  IJieir  seal-spears  to  find  tluj 
iim.st  suitahle  for  that  |»nrpose.  TIkmi,  oik?  coniiniMced  sawin.^^  r»nt 
siinw-hhieks,  usin;^  a  liand-saAV,  an  inipl(;inent  now  in  ^reat  demand 
Miiiniii;  the  Inimits  for  that  jmrpose  llie  lil(»el<s  haviiii^^  heeii  ent  IVotn 
llic  space  th(!  i^loo  was  to  oeenpy,  llie  other  Innilit  proceeded  to  hiy 
ihc  i'oundatioii  tier,  wliic^h  c(jiisisted  of  seventeen  blocks,  each  three  recit 
Idiin',  ei<^ht('en  iiichcH  widi;,  and  six  inches  thick.  'I'licn  commenced 
llic  N/^/'/vf//////,  iillowin^  eiudi  tier  to  Tall  in,  dome-sha|ied,  till  the  wliole 
was  completed,  and  the  key-stone  of  th(!  dome  or  arch  diopp(!d  into  its 
jilaoe,  the  builders  hein^  within  dnrin^  the;  ojieration.  When  the  i^doo 
WHS  linisjied  two  Innnits  were  walled  in;  then  a  s(|iiare  openin*^  \\,is 
(lit  III  the  rear  of  tlio  dwelling,  ami  tliron<^h  this  Smith  and  I  pas.se(| 
sonic  snow-blocks,  wiiieh  we,  had  sawed  out.  These  Sharkey  and  Koo- 
jcssc  chijijied  or  niineed  with  their  snow-knives,  while  Tu-nuk-der-Iien 
and  Jennie  trod  the  fragments  into  a  liard  b(!d  of  snow,  forming  the 
couch  or  the  dais  of  the  ighto.  This  done,  tlie  women  quickly  erected 
on  the  right  and  left  the  lire-stands,  and  soon  liad  fires  V)lazing,  and 
snow  melting  with  which  to  slake  our  thirst.  Then  the  usual  shrubs, 
kept  for  that  purpose,  were  everdy  s[)read  on  the  snow  of  the  bed- 
place  over  which  was  laid  the  canvas  of  my  tent ;  and  over  all  were 
spread  tuktoo  furs  forming  the  bed.     When  the  work  had  been  thusi 


M     ,A. 


'   I 


I'H: 


^ :! 


1 
i 

'  i  ! 


11>2 


AMKUICAN    EXl'LOUATIONS    IN   THE   ICK   ZONKS. 


far  advaiiced,  the  iiiiiin  door  was  cut  out  of  the  crystal  white  wall,  uud 
tlic  walrus-ineat  and  others  wore  pass*  ( I  in.  Then  both  openings  were 
sealed  up,  and  all  within  were  made  hajipy  in  the  enjoyment  of  com- 
forts  that  would  hardly  he  dreamed  ol  by  those  at  home." 

IJut  from  the  '2'Id  of  the  month,  for  nearly  ten  weary  days,  Hall  liud 
tt>  remain  encamped  on  the  main  ice  oft"  the  land,  an<l  the  natives  were 


ESKIMO  ANI>  HIS   SKAI,-nOO. 

From  Hull  s  "Arctic  Kesi'aRlic'8."     Ilurpur  UmchiTs. 

unsuccessful  in  every  attempt  lo  secure  either  the  seal,  the  walrus,  the 
white  whale,  or  any  c^ame.  The  only  food  within  the  igloo  was  the 
kow  (walrus-hide)  with  the  hair  on ;  their  lamp  was  without  oil,  and 
without  it  they  could  liave  no  fresh  water.  The  capture  of  two  seals 
at  last  brought  relief. 

Again  jji-essing  forward,  he  completed  a  lengthened  exploration  of 
nearly  two  months,  arriving  at  the  George  Henry's  anchorage  May  -I. 
The  details  of  this  journey  and  of  his  survey  occupy  a  large  space  in  the 
volume  of  his  "  Researches."   His  corrections  of  the  charts  of  the  lociili- 


NATIVE   DKESW. 


193 


tiis  txainincd  have  been  of  value  to  the  wliaHng  fleets,  which  have 
fiMiiinued,  though  with  less  frequency,  to  visit  them. 

His  ('Xi)eiience  of  Eskimo  life  and  forced  self-adaptation  to  it,  hfgun 
(III  this  voyage,  seems,  strangely  enough,  to  have  carried  its  attractions 
tliidiiLjh  the  second  visitation  and  residence  of  five  years,  which  is  yet 
to  lie  described.  His  acc^uaintance  with  the  inside  life  of  the  degraded 
iiiid  tlic  superstitious,  and  with  their  modes  of  obtaining  their  supitlies, 
will  be  best  portrayed  by  selections  from  the  records  of  liis  later  resi- 
(U'licf;  what  here  follows  may  show  his  first  impressions  correilcd  by 
those  experiences. 

As  regards  the  appearance  of  the  Innuits,  as  he  justly  prefers  to  call 
them,  without  noting  their  average  low  stature,  so  well  known,  even  in 
coiiiparison  with  that  of  those  on  the  northwestern  American  coast. 
Hail  notes  that  the  women  were  found  generally  tattooed  on  the  fore- 
head, cheeks,  and  chin.  The  process  for  this  is  simply  the  drawing  of 
ii  soot-blackened  reindeer-sinew  thread  under  and  through  the  skin 
by  a  needle ;  the  tattooing  is  done  from  principle ;  the  lines,  as  they 
believe,  will  be  regarded  in  the  next  world  as  a  sign  of  goodness. 
Neither  for  the  females  of  this  region  nor  for  those  around  Hudson's 
Bay  does  he  express  liimself  in  any  connnendation  of  an  attractive 
personal  appearance,  thus  indicating  a  contrast  between  these  and 
the  natives  of  Greenland,  of  whom  each  Arctic  voyager  has  spoken  in 
praise. 

The  native  dress  for  winter  is  of  reindeer-skin  ;  for  summer,  of  the 
seal.  The  round  jacket  without  opening  in  front  or  behind  is  slipped 
over  the  head,  is  close-fitting,  comes  as  low  as  the  hips,  and  has  sleeves 
reaching  to  the  wrists.  It  has  a  liood  at  the  back  for  covering  the  head 
in  euld  weather,  or  carrying  the  children  (see  page  176),  and  is  often  very 
elaborately  ornamented.  The  wife  of  one  of  the  natives  hor'  tier  jacket 
trimmed  thus:  Across  the  neck  a  fringe  made  of  eighty  pendants  of 
red,  blue,  black,  and  white  glass  beads,  forty  on  each  string ;  on  the 
Hap  in  front,  bowls  of  Britannia  metal,  tea  and  table-spoons ;  on  the  tail 
reaching  nearly  to  the  ground,  six  pairs  of  federal  copper  cents  pendant 
down  the  middle  ;  and  a  huge  brass  bell  from  some  old-fashioned  chjck  at 
the  top  of  the  row  of  cents.     In  winter  two  jackets  are  worn,  the  inner 


•it! 


H'ii 


Ji! 


'    I 


.1- 


194 


AMKISICAN    KXlM.oirATIONS    IN   THE    ICK   ZONES. 


one  with  tlio  hair  next  tliu  l)o(ly.     Tlicir  brcecheii  reach  below  tlie  kin'o, 

and  arc  lasteiied  witli  a  strinj;  drawn  tij^htly  around  the  lower  ))ari  of 

tlie  waist.     Those  worn  by  the  women  are  put  on  in  thi'  e  pieces,  (mcIi 

le^  and  tlie  body  forming  separate  parts. 

'riie  t'nll  winter  dress  consists  of:  first,  long  stockings  of  reindeer  I'm', 

with  the  hair  next  the  iierson;  second,  socks  of  liie  eider-duck  skins. 

with  the    feathers   on   and    inside:    tiiird,  socks  of   sealskin,  with  tlio 

hair   (Hitside;    fourtii,  kumings    (native  boots),   with   legs  of   tuktud, 

the  fur  outside,  and  the  soles  uf 
ook-gook.  All  wear  mittens, 
though  the  women  generally  wear 
only  one,  and  that  one  on  the  i  ii^ht 
hand;  the  left  is  drawn  witliin 
the   sleeve. 

The  mode  of  capture  of  the  licar. 
the  reindeer,  the  whale,  and  iIk- 
walrus  will  be  noted  in  the  ac- 
count of  the  Second  Expeiliiidn, 
Hall,  at  an  early  period  of  his  lii>i 
voyage,  noticed  two  remarkahlc 
qualities  in  the  native  character. 
wliich  have  a  strong  bearing  u|i(iii 
their  success  in  obtaining  a  liveli- 
hood. One  of  these  is  the  accu- 
racy with  which  they  sketcli  the 
lines  of  coast  and  the  ice-font,  aid- 
ing their  journeyings;  outlines  ui' 

marke<l  correctness  were  made  for  him.     A  sketch  of  superior  accuracv. 

as  endorsed  by  the  charts  of  distinguished  Arctic  navigators,  will  be 

found  in  the  Narrative  of  the  next  voyage. 

Of  the  Innuit  sagacity  in  gaining  lessons  of  value  from  the  liahits  df 

the  animals  he  says  that  they  observe  how  the  seal  constructs  its  dwu 

igloo,  and  model  their  own  winter  dwellings  from  it. 

Sectional  view  No.  1  shows  a  seal's  hole  and  igloo  with  a  i/oimfi 

one  lying  within  and  a  mother  coming  up  to  visit  it.     The  horizontal 


.SKAI.-niil.l':   AN1>  SK.AL-IOI.OO.  — Xo.  1. 

Fidiii  Mull's  "Arctic  Ucsuurchus."    Ilurpcr  llrutlicrs. 


KTIMKINCJ    FOU    A    SKAL 


111." 


liii,s  ill  the  t'ii<jraviii<;,  ami  tlioso  across  tlie  scal-lioU',  roproscMit  s«'a- 
\v;ih'r:  lilt'  pcriiendicular  lines,  ice.  I)_v  the  tiiiic  the  sun  has  melted 
.,11  I  lie  SHOW  coveriiij^,  destroviii.!;'  the  (hum',  the  yoiiiii;-  seal,  for  which 
thi,  home  has  been  made  hy  its  pros[»ective  mother,  is  ready  to  take 


I'.iii'  I 


il"  itself.     The  season  for  their  hiiildiiij;'  is  ahoiit  April  1, 


I'll  capture  tlie  seal  the  native  always  needs  his  «lo^',  who,  liowev(M'. 


(iiilv  sc( 


nts  the  iijloo,  leavino-  his  master  to  uatcii  the  i^aiii 


Tl 


le  sealer 


IS 


awaitiiij^'    the    seal's    blow,    for 
hich  he  has  sometimes  to  watch 


d 


iiidlionless  two  or  three  days  ant 
nights.  At  the  point  indicated 
liv  liis  dog,  he  thrusts  down  the 
.spindle  of  his  steel  spear,  to  find 
through  the  snow  the  breathing- 
hole  of  an  inch  or  two  in  diam- 
tter;  then,  withdrawing  his  spear. 


^i\\\< 


OS    it    au'ain     unerrinj; 


th 


e    snow,    eighteen    to 


tlirou^li 

twenty-four  inches,  to  the  seal's 
jieail.  'I'he  animal  dives  and  runs 
out  the  full  length  of  the  line  in 
tile  sealer's  hand,  but  he  soon 
(haws  out  his  prize  from  the  hole 
which  he  lias  enlarged  with  his 
icc-cliisel. 

When  a  seal  is  taken,  a  few 
drops  of  water  are  sprinkl(;d  on  its  head  before  it  is  cut  up ;  if  no  water 
is  to  he  had,  snow  is  heUl  in  the  hand  until  a  droji  is  squeezed  out- 
Woincn  are  not  allowed  to  touch  the  lirst  seal  of  the  season,  even  to 
press  uul  its  oil  for  others. 


SKAI^HULK.  —  No.  2, 


Ml 


lii 


,;ft; 


t" 


■\  M 


!l' 


m 


FIRST    IMPRESSIONS. 

The  Jpuuits,  as  is  well-known,  eat  voraciously.  Hall  says  on  one 
occasion  he  was  comjielled  to  say  to  himself :  "  What  monstrous  stom- 
achs these  Eskimos  have."  They  had  been  cutting  up  the  knoit^  (whale- 


f 

I  H 

'■I  ' 


ill 


m 


M 


'     i 


iw 


A.MKIMCAN    i:\ri<(H;AT|().-S    IN    TIIK    M'K    ZONKS. 


iiiciit)  into  Iiiij,'t'  slices  iiiul  sciidiiij^  it  to  the  vilia<^u  tor  (Icposil.  hut  .ill 
(lay  loiiy'  iis  ilifv  \vorl\('(l  they  iit»'.  '* 'I'ho  (luaiility  taken  on  one  il.iv 
seenieil  enunuh  for  many."  IJefore  this  whale  liad  heen  l»ron^lit  alcn^. 
side  till!  "(ie<»rgt'  Henry,"  they  had  ealeii  twenty  stjuare  leet  ni  Un- 
law skin. 

'I'he  lanifiiat^e  of  tlie  natives  of  Northund)erlaiul  Inlet  is  a  di.ili  1 1 
unch'rstood  with  great  dilheulty  hy  natives  wiio  eonio  t"r(»n»  the  Nniili 
and  West,  an<l  is  still  more  ditlieult  for  the  people  of  (ireenlamh  Tlir 
Innuits  of  Hall's  lirst  ae(piaintane(!  could  not  count  lieyond  tin  li\ 
W(»r(ls;  l)y  sij^ns,  that  is  hy  throwing  open  the  lingers,  they  could  .jii 
further. 

Their  religious  ideas  and  ohservances  are  chielly  under  the  inlhiciir,. 
of  their  An-ge-kos,  whose  husiness,  like  those  of  the  Medicine  Man  n\ 
\\\c  S/i<n)iHi<ins  of  the  Western  coast,  is  to  minister  for  the  sick,  and  I'm 
the  community  in  general.  His  mode  t)f  ])rocedure,  when  called  in  Inr 
the  siek  or  for  any  case  of  sup[)osed  special  relief,  is  lirst,  to  dt  inand 
immediately  his  pay,  and  then,  with  the  family  around,  to  hegin  ini  nu- 
tations or  what  sounds  like  a  ju'cdonged  su]>plication  with  formulas 
responded  to  hy  tlie  company.  The  An-gc-ko  is  employed  also  in  an- 
kooting  for  success  in  the  hunts,  for  the  disappearance  of  the  ice,  ami 
for  a  good  season.  On  more  than  one  occasion  he  was  found  to  he 
graspingly  covetous  and  otherwise  immoral,  hut  is  almost  uidvci sally 
feared  and  obeyed.  The  name  An-gc-ko  was  rcjiorted  to  mean  ••  he  i> 
very  great." 

RETUKX   TO   THE    UNITKI)    STATES. 

Hall's  return  from  this  first  voyage  was  now  compelled  hy  the  it- 
lease  of  the  ship,  the  whaling  season  of  the  year  having  ended.  He  liad 
acquired  some  useful  knowledge  of  Eskimo  life  and  language,  iIk' 
further  in  which  he  advanced  the  more  he  hoped  to  turn  it  to  advan- 
tage on  a  renewed  voyage.  August  9,  the  "George  Henry"  took  a 
final  leave  of  the  inmates  of  the  bay,  a  crowd  of  whom  surrounded  her 
in  their  Kias  and  Oo-miens,  waving  their  partings  and  shouting  tlicir 
Ter-hou-e-tie  Cfarewell).  In  his  Journal,  three  months  before,  he  lia<l 
written,  "  Ebierbing  and  his  nuliana,  Too-koo-litoo,  will  accompany  uic 
to  America,  and  on  a  future  Expedition  to  King  William's  Laml.    I 


TOO-KOO-LI-TO),   ir.VLL,   AVI>   EinKIlKlNO. 

From  Hull's  "A»iti.'  Itcsciircliis. "     Ifiirinr  lirutlum. 


\' 


I 


1  1 

1 

1 

- 

'    ( 

i 


hi 


198 


AMKItlCAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


hope,  lU'ter  what  I  have  done  here  in  the  North,  I  shall  have  no  insiir- 
niountable  obstacle  to  overcome  in  preparing  for  that  voyage.  Tliat 
the  Innuits  are  still  living  who  knew  all  about  the  mysterious  termina- 
tion of  the  Franklin  Expedition,  1  have  not  the  shadow  of  a  douhi. 
What  is  requisite  is  to  visit  those  regions,  get  acquainted  with  ihc 
Innuits  there,  become  familiar  with  their  language,  and  thon  learn  the 
liistory."  The  two  natives  had  expressed  a  desire  to  go  to  the  United 
States,  fearing  oidy  that  their  child  might  die  on  board  ship;  at  an 
hour's  notice,  with  their  cliild  and  their  sealnlog,  they  were  on  Unir 
way  to  the  barque  from  their  hut,  seven  miles  distant. 

Af*^^er  working  through  the  ice  for  twenty-four  hours,  the  banpir 
was  fairly  at  sea.  Without  any  special  incident  except  their  falling 
short  of  provisions  and  their  inability  to  obtain  relief  from  ships  met 
with,  the  "George  Henry"  reached  St.  John's  August  23,  and  New- 
London  September  13,  1802,  —  Hall  thus  ending  his  voyage  and  exi>l(i- 
rations  of  two  years  and  three  and  a  half  months  in  and  about  tho 
Arctic  Seas.     But  he  was  already  planning  a  Second  Expedition. 


:ii 


ESKmO  LAMP. 


CHAPTER    VII. 

JIALL'S   SECOND    ARCTIC   EXPEDITION.  —  RESIDENCE  AM()N(;    THE 

ESKIMOS   1804   TO    IKOit.* 

I'Kl.l'AIlATOUY  LABOIJS. — PAPER  BEPORK  THK  AMERICAN  GKOCIIAPHI- 
CAI.  SOCIKTV.  —  FROIJISHER  RELICS  SENT  TO  LONDON  AND  TO  THE 
SMITHSONIAN. —  LECTURES.  —  I'LANS  FOR  THJ:  NKW  VOVAOK. — 
SAILINO  OF  THE  "  MONTICELLO."  —  LANDING  AT  WHALE  PoINT. — 
FlItST  INTKRCOUUSE  WITH  THK  NATIVES. —  FEASTING.  —  ANKOOT- 
IN(i. — THE  KEY-EOW-TIK. — WALJtUS  HUNT.  —  NEW  YEAW's  DAY. 
—  SEALING. — hall's  FIRST  PRIZE. — CAPTURE  OF  A  WHALE. — 
WINTER  QUARTERS  AT  FORT  HOPE. — HALL's  DAILY  LIFE. — AURO- 
KAS.  —  REFRACTION  AND  PARHELIA. — NATIVE  MAPPIN(!. —  UNSUC- 
CESSFUL ADVANCE  WESTWARD.  — FRANKLIN  RELICS.  — JOURNEY  TO 
CAPE  WEYNTON. — JOURNEY  TO  FU!:YAND  HECLA  STRAITS.  —  A 
MUTINEER. — JOURNEY  TO  IGLOOLIK.  —  VISIT  TO  KING  WILLIAM's 
LAND.  —  FRANKLIN  RELICS.  —  CAPTURE  OF  THE  THIRD  WHALE. — 
UETUI'.N    TO    THE    UNITED    STATES. 

PREPARATORY  LABORS    (18C2-C4). 

HAIwL'S  preparations  for  his  second  Expedition  occupied  a  period  of 
two  years.  Tlie  labors  of  those  years,  by  showing  the  successful 
results  of  his  first  voyage,  and  by  the  interest  created  through 
the  publication  of  his  "Arctic  Researches,"  secured  his  secoiul  outfit. 
The  residence  among  the  Eskimos  which  followed  gave  him  a  longer 
Arctic  experience  than  that  of  any  other  explorer. 

The  purpose  of  the  first  voyage,  defeated,  as  has  been  shown,  by  the 
Idss  of   his  boat,  was  but  strengthened  by  defeat.     Of  this  he  gave 

*  The  Narrative  of  this  Expedition,  and  that  of  Hall's  third,  —  tlie  "  North  Polar  Expe- 
dition of  1871,"  — have  been  drawn  up  from  tlie  material  placed  before  the  anthor  while 
on  dnty  on  this  subject  at  the  U.  S.  Naval  Observatory.  To  the  oflicial  records  and  corre- 
siiondencc  of  these  Expeditions  then  furnished,  favorable  opportunities  offered  themselves 
for  supplementing  some  of  Hall's  Journals  by  the  receipt  of  his  correspondence  with  his 
i'li()i(!e  friends,  Mr.  Henry  Grinnell,  Mr.  J.  C-  Brevoort,  of  New  York,  and  Captain  Buil- 
iuiitou  and  Mr.  J.  J.  Copp,  of  New  London.  Conn.  For  the  use  of  some  of  the  illustra- 
tions acknowledgments  are  due  to  Prof.  Baird  of  the  Smithsonian,  and  Dr.  E.  Bessels. 

169 


.1 


■ 


Hi 


'■ 


'  iliiil: 


• 


. 


■r 


I    r 

I 


1! 


m 


'•'.■\ 


ill 


n  i 


I  i 


200 


AMEUICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE   ICE   ZONES. 


renewed  proof,  before  reaching  the  United  States,  by  a  telegram  fiom 
St.  Johns,  Newfoundland  —  a  dispatch  which  began  with  the  words  "I 
am  bou)id  for  the  States  to  reneio  voyaije^''  and  which  reads  througliuut 
more  like  news  from  an  excursionist  than  from  one  who  had  been  li^lit- 
ing  his  way  through  two  Arctic  winters.  The  fortitude  into  which  \w 
had  been  discii)lined  will  be  seen  to  nave  shown  itself  steadily  throuyh 
the  two  succeeding  years  of  working  and  waiting. 

On  his  arrival  in  New  London,  placing  the  Eskimos  under  the  eaic 
of  Captain  IJudington,  he  made  a  short  visit  to  Cincinnati.  While  tlicrc 
his  letters  evinced  much  concern  as  to  the  opinions  which  the  Eiijf- 
lisli  i)eople  might  form  from  the  reports  in  the  press  of  a  hasty  impros- 
sion  received  iVoni  him  that  he  had  probably  determined  the  fate  of  llic 
two  boats'  crews  of  Franklin's  Expedition.  He  had  been  led  into  tliis 
error  1)}^  a  party  of  Sekoselar  Innuits,  but  promptly  corrected  it  in  lliu 
columns  of  the  New  York  press,  and,  afterwards,  more  fully  in  a  pa]i('i' 
read  before  the  American  Geographical  Society,  and  in  the  "Arctic  lu- 
searclu's."  His  apprehensions  were  that  before  the  first  corrections 
could  reach  England,  the  error  would  prejudice  the  English  against  tlic 
genuineness  of  the  discoveries  he  had  been  making  in  the  region  vis- 
ited. The  apprehension  proved  to  have  been  groundless.  It  however 
induced  Hall  to  decline  lecturing  in  Cincinnati,  and  to  entertain  a  new 
idea  in  regard  to  the  proper  disposition  of  the  relics. 

He  naturally  set  a  value  on  Ids  late  explorations,  and  had  reason  to 
suppose  they  would  interest  the  English  people.  He  believed  that  tlic 
account  given  by  Frobisher  himself  was  so  indefinite  that,  for  nearly 
three  hundred  years,  the  civilized  world  had  been  in  doubt  of  the  pri'- 
cise  localities.  Up  to  the  time  of  this  visit  of  1861  no  opportunity 
had  been  embraced  for  identifying  them,  or  for  confirming  other  ac- 
counts which  Frobisher  had  given.  The  Admiralty  chart  of  1858, and 
that  furnished  by  the  volume  of  DeHaveu's  Expedition,  still  had  u})()ii 
them  tlie  so-called  "Strait,"  which  was  supposed  to  be  a  passage  west- 
ward to  the  further  part  of  Hudson's  Bay;  but  navigators  liad  always 
chosen  Hudson's  Straits  in  passing  to  and  from  that  bay.  Had  any  one 
attempted  the  passage  through  what  was  laid  down  on  their  charts  as 
Frobisher's  Strait,  they  must  have  failed  to  pass  through.      He  IkhI 


SrU   MAUTIN. 


'201 


rca-'iii  for  desiring  to  prove  the  genuineness  of  his  discoveries,  and 
li,  ,  \-i)ressed  a  wish  to  place  his  proofs  before  a  committee  that  might 
lie  iiii)ointed  in  London  to  examine  liis  notes,  his  relics,  and  himself. 


MAUTINUS   FUOBISHKUUS   EQUKS  AUUATUS. 

From  "  Tilt!  Tliree  V.iyuj!c8  i>f'  Frobisher,"  editi'd  by  the  lite  Ailmiral  Collinson,  R.  N. 

Sir  Martin's  name  was  that  of  one  of  the  first  Englishn.en  to  sail  in 
(|ucst  of  the  passage,  and  it  was  one  of  no  loss  fame  under  Drake  and 
llnward,  for  in  1588  he  was  knighted  for  service  under  tlie  High  Admi- 
ral Howard  against  the  Armada. 


'i? 


-:) 


\i 


it 


i 


' 


Hi 

i^M 

w 

r        ■' 

1'   ■; 

i  aiji 

'',       ■  i 

1  Id 

ill     ' 

1  Hj 

SKflf 

i 

H 

1  i^'^ 

'  '  it' ■ 

' '  ■■- 

il'l 

'  1  ii 

: 

'  1  ' 

1    "l 

:'  iittj-' 

>■- 

''  i: 

i 

1  ! 

!  I 


■iJi" 


I   .  I 


1 

5     ■ 

l' 

■1 

;       t 

!■  .|t 

:■  1 

'    ' 

1= 


{^J 


202 


>MEUICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE   ICE   ZONES. 


Hall's  enthusiasm  prompted  him  to  say  that  the  age  of  his  ix'li(  s. 
and  the  remarkable  circumstances  attending  them,  stamped  tlioni  as 
worthy  gifts  for  Queen  Victoria.  Barrow  had  taught  him  that  tlie 
expeditions  of  Sir  jNIartin  were  among  the  favorite  objects  of  Elizahcih. 
who  had  shown  her  favor  by  throwing  around  his  neck  a  chain  of  t;nli|. 
Conferring,  however,  with  Mr.  Grinnell,  in  New  York,  he  (U'ciilcd 
to  send  the  relics  out  to  England,  in  place  of  exhausting  his  own 
means  and  delaying  his  plans  hy  a  visit  to  London. 

At  a  meeting  of  the  American  Geographical  Society  of  New  Yuik. 
introduced  by  Mr.  Grinnell,  he  made  a  report,  which  will  be  iniiiid 
noted  in  their  "Proceedings"  of  the  year,  under  the  title  of  "An  Ab- 
stract of  a  Paper  on  some  Arctic  Discoveries."  In  this  paper,  alter 
referring  to  his  statements  before  the  Society  made  two  years  previ- 
ously, he  re-stated  in  full  the  original  purpose  of  his  late  voy.ige  to 
visit  King  William's  Land  and  Boothia,  and  there  spend  two  years,  if 
needed,  in  gathering  materials  for  concluding  in  a  more  satisfaeliirv 
way  the  history  of  Franklin's  Expedition ;  to  recover  the  logs  of  the 
ships  "Erebus"  and  "Terror,"  with  all  other  manuscripts  belongiiio  to 
that  Expedition ;  and  especially  to  rescue  some  lone  survivor  or  sur- 
vivors, that  peradventure  might  be  found  living  with  the  Eskimos. 
He  then  gave  an  account  of  Messrs.  Williams  and  Haven's  generously 
free  conveyance  to  Northumberland  Inlet,  of  himself  and  his  Eskimo 
companion,  Kud-la-go,  with  his  boat,  provisions,  and  stores;  of  his  lioat 
being  wrecked ;  and  of  his  long  residence  with  the  natives,  (luriiio' 
which  he  had  ingratiated  himself  with  them,  adopting  their  s^yle  of 
dross,  living  in  their  snow-huts,  and  feeding  on  their  raw  whale-skin. 
walrus,  and  seal-meat. 

With  some  exultation,  he  said  that  in  Sei)tember,  18G1.  he  had 
landed  on  an  island  which  the  Innuits  and  their  ancestors  from  time 
immemorial  had  called  Kod-lu-Narn^  or  White  Man's  Island,  from  the 
tradition  that  strangers  had  lived  there  and  tried  to  escape  from  it : 
that  on  this  island  he  had  found  remains  of  stone  houses,  coal,  ivoii, 
and  glass,  all  covered  with  tlite  moss  of  ages ;  and  that  he  had  visited 
every  accessible  i)lace  named  by  the  Eskimos  as  connected  with  the 
fate  of  the  strangers  there,  "many,  many  years  ago."     He  added  his 


DISCUSSION    OF   THE    RELICS. 


203 


eoiivittions  that  he  had  thus  been  the  tirst  to  revisit  the  precise  locali- 
ties lit"  Frobisher's  expeditions,  quoting  from  TIakluyt  and  other  works, 
ill  w  liich  the  materials  taken  out  by  Frobisher  for  the  erection  of  stone 
/////(.sr.s'  and  everything  necessary  for  the  colony  of  one  hundred  men  are 
(lotailcd ,  and  he  exhibited  the  specimens  which  he  had  brought  from 
tlio  ruins,  asking  the  Geographical  Society  to  inspect  them  rigidly  in 
eviilciice  for  or  against  his  statements. 

lie  then  showed  that  during  his  two  years'  northern  residence  he 
had  explored  over  one  thousand  miles  of  coast,  making  as  careful  a 
suivcy  as  his  means  and  instruments  permitted,  and  proving  that  the 
water  which  had  for  three  centuries  been  calUid  Frobisher's  Strnit  was 
a  wide  bay ,  adding,  "  Inasmuch  as  I  have  failed  in  the  great  object  for 
wliicli  I  went  out,  it  is  my  intention  to  try  again  in  the  following 
spring." 

Donations  of  the  relics  were  sent  to  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  and 
a  i)art  of  the  geological  collections  presented  to  the  New  York  Lyceum 
(if  Natural  History  was  the  subject  of  Reports  by  Mr.  R.  P.  Stevens 
anil  Ml'.  Thomas  Eggleston.  .  A  discussion  of  another  part  of  the  col- 
lection by  Professor  Emerson  of  Amherst  College,  endorsed  by  Pro- 
fessor White  of  the  United  States  Geological  Survey  of  the  Territories, 
forms  Appendix  3  of  the  volume  of  "Hall's  Second  Arctic  Expedition," 
published  by  the  United  States  Senate  in  1879.  With  the  relics  sent 
to  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  was  a  carefully  prepared  outline 
sketch  of  the  bay,  and  three  diagram  maps,  one  of  them  tlie  Countess 
of  Warwicke  Sound. 

Commander  Becher,  R.N.,  of  the  Admiralty,  who  had  written  elab- 
orately of  these  old  voyages,  wrote  to  Hall,  "I  have  no  doubt  of  5'our 
relics  being  those  left  by  Frobisher's  party."  His  correspondence 
abroad  produced  also  a  valuable  incidental  result,  the  is^uo  of  a  new 
volume  of  the  "Hakluyt  Series,"  in  which  the  late  Admiral  Collinson, 
R.N.,  the  well-known  Arctic  explorer,  of  the  relief  ship  "  Enterprise  " 
(sec  Table  II.,  page  29),  has  given  a  rare  edition  of  the  Frobisher 
voyages,  cordially  dedicating  it  "to  Henry  Grinnell,  of  New  York,  as 
a  tribute  of  respect  and  admiration,  not  only  for  his  conduct  and  gen- 
erous co-operation  in  the  search  for  Sir  John  Franklin  and  his  com- 


lliiji 


m 


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J, 


I      !    >     I 

(  >  }     1 


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ni 


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il',. 

:- 

i 

1 

:    ■ 

204 


AMUinCAN    KXPLOIJATIONS    IN  THE    ICE   ZONES. 


panioiis,  but  for  the  iutorest  ho  had  shuwu  in,  iind  the  aid  ho  liad 
uttonkul  to,  Pohir  oxi)h)iatioii   in   tho   present  day." 

'J'he  iV(huiral  gives  an  extended  eataU)gue  of  Hall's  relies,  wiiich 
uere  to  be  ileposited  in  London  with  the  Franklin  relies  brought  back 
by  J{ae  and  MeC'lintoek.  C'ajjtain  Heeher  eourteously  forwarded  alsci 
to  Hall  the  eharts,  whieh  he  might  Iind  useful. 

He  now  entered  on  a  eonrse  of  lectures  for  securing  aid  toward  the 
Second  Kxi)edition,  and  for  his  own  su[)j)ort  and  that  of  the  l^skiiims. 
tlelivering  these  to  large  audiences  in  Providence,  Norwich,  Ilaittuiil. 
New  Haven,  Hudson,  Klniira,  and  other  cities;  exhibiting  on  his  maps 
the  routes  of  the  old  voyagers,  Frobisher,  Davis,  liallin,  and  otlnis. 
and  his  own  recent  explorations.  The  Eskimo  family  were  alwavs 
objects  of  much  interest,  Too-koo-litoo  showing  an  unex[)ected  know]. 
edge  of  the  geography  of  lier  country,  and  reminding  Arctic  stu(l('lll^ 
of  tho  native  woman,  I-lig-li-uk,  and  lier  chai't  drawn  for  Parry.  Tin. 
lecturer  could  not  claim  polish  or  ease  of  oratory,  but  secured  ilusc 
iittention  by  the  tact  and  enthusiasm  of  these  conversational  dis- 
cussions. His  friends  regretted  that  under  its  general  rule  against  |)av 
lectures,  the  Smithsonian  Institution  could  not  tender  the  audieino- 
room  to  whieh  Kane  and  Hayes  had  been  invited,  for  he  had  hoped  to 
interest  the  ollicers  of  the  governnuMit  at  Washington  in  an  appro[iria- 
tion  by  Congress  for  a  new  voyage.  Tho  proceeds  of  his  lectiucs 
secured  but  little  beyond  the  necessary  expenses ;  they  made  IVii'inls 
for  him,  but  as  to  pecuniary  gain,  he  "was  worse  off  than  when  lie 
started  out."  Yet  he  pushed  forward  his  plans.  To  the  credit  of  his 
sincerity  and  intelligent  thoughtfulness,  it  should  be  noted  that  lie 
kept  his  mind  under  the  iniluence  of  the  counsels  and  the  example  df 
leaders  who  had  themselves  i)assed  to  success  only  through  dishearten- 
ing trials.  In  his  private  note-books  are  to  be  found,  underscured 
almost  word  by  word,  such  maxims  as  these:  "Our  greatest  glory  con- 
sists not  in  falling,  but  in  rising  every  time  we  fall."  "The  question 
is  not  the  number  of  facts  a  man  knows,  but  how  much  of  a  fact  he  is 
himself."  He  remembered  that  Henr}',  the  revered  Secretary  oi  tiie 
Smithsonian,  had  said  he  had  "freely  given  to  the  world  the  results 
of  his  labors,  expecting  only  in  return  to  enjoy  the  consciousness  of 


I; 


WHALES  TO   BE  CAITURED. 


205 


Iiiiviiiuf  added  to  the  sum  of  huimiii  happiness."  And  Sinithson  hud 
wiiiU'ii,  "Every  iiiaii  is  a  vahiahle  member  of  society,  who,  by  his 
olisiivations,    researches,    and   experiments,    procures    knowledge    for 

IIR'II."" 

NEW    PLANS. 

On  the  17th  of  March,  1803,  an  anxiously-awaited  conferencje  wan 
jicM  with  Mr.  (Jrinnell,  and  Mr.  R.  II.  ('hai>ell,  of  tlm  lutuse  of  Wil- 
li;ii  IS  and  Haven,  New  Lon(h)n,  at  which  Hall  presented  the  notes  for 
his  Srcond  Kx])edition,  the  chief  of  which  included  the  followinj^ 
ideas,  under  the  head  of  his 

"  Proposed  Expedition  to  Boothia  and  Kin<^  WiUiam's  Land,  for  the 
final  determination  of  all  the  mysterious  matters  relative  to  Sir  John 
Franklin's  Expedition." 

A  vessel  of  about  two  hundred  tons  to  be  furnished  and  ])rovisioncd 
lor  two  years  and  six  months;  the  same  to  be  under  Hall's  command. 
Tlic  vessel  to  be  fitted  out  for  whaling,  the  object  beiniif  to  have  the 
whole  expense  of  the  Expedition  paid  by  the  proceeds  of  whalebone 
and  oil;  to  gc  on  or  before  the  1st  of  June  of  the  present  year,  and 
make  direct  for  the  north  side  near  the  entrance  of  Frobisher's  Bay  ; 
there  to  take  aboard  three  or  four  Eskimos,  with  their  wives,  also 
sledges  and  dogs ;  then  to  make  for  Hudson's  Strait ;  thence  to  Hud- 
son's Bay,  west  side,  south  to  Southampton  Island;  thence  up  the 
channel  of  Sir  Thomas  Rowe's  Welcome  to  Repulse  Bay. 

If  whales  were  found  on  the  wa}',  to  secure  as  many  as  possible, 
yet  no  further  delay  to  be  allowed  than  would  admit  of  getting 
into  Repulse  Bay  by  or  on  the  1st  of  September  of  the  same  year 
ius  starting. 

If  it  were  found  advisable  under  certain  contingencies  for  the  vessel 
to  proceed  at  once  to  other  whale-grounds  than  that  of  Repulse  Bay, 
she  must  do  so  after  having  landed  him  and  his  party  and  outfit  for 
land  service,  to  wit,  for  his  expedition  from  Repulse  Bay  to  King 
William's  Land. 

A  cheap,  portable  frame  house  was  to  be  constructed  in  the  States 
iuid  landed  at  the  Bay,  to  be  used  there  for  storing  provisions  therein, 
and  also  as  a  residence. 


'r 


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i-l 


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Hi 


Hi. 


20G 


AMKIMCAN    KXI'LOIIATIONS    IN    TIIK    UK   ZONKS. 


l>y  csliiMisliiii^'  lic;i(l(iiiiiit('i's  at  tlie  Itay.  Iiaviiit;-  llu'ie  a  wlialc'iniit 
strongly  ('(instnictcd.  aiul  liaviun'  llicrt'  also  Krohislicr  IJay  I^skiiiK,^. 
llit'if  in'c(l  l)f  no  liiii(U'raiicc  to  the  I'orcc  t'liiployctl  on  lliu  vt'sscl  tii.in 
jiioscciitiiiL;'  to  till'  I'lillcst  cMciit  tlicir  wlialiiii;'  business. 

Till'  whole  cxpi'iisc  ol'  tlic  I'^xju'ditioii  to  Itc  paid  iVoin  the  iirocciK 
of  the  wlialiiiif  l)raiu'li.  [)rovidiii<;'  the  aiuoiiiit  waiiaiits  it. 

Mr.  (irimicll  and  ^Ir.  Cliaiicll  approved  the  ideas  ol'  this  jihin.  hiit 
at  the  date  named,  during' the  reverses  oi'  tlieAvariiotyeteiided.il  \\;i, 
no  time  lor  either  eoiiiniei'eial  lioiis>'  to  take  the  risks  ol'  snecos  jn 
Mhalini;'  juirsuits.  ]Mr.  (irinnell  hail  already  exiJcnded  on  iVretie  e\|M'- 
dilioiis  hetweeii  one  hundred  thousand  and  one  liiindred  and  tiltv 
thousand  dollars,   and   had   mot   with    reeeiit    losses. 

After  tlie  study  of  otlu'r  jilans,  involvinj;'  essentially  the  same  idciis 
of  the  emphtyment  of  a  sliij)  and  of  eonipanions  on  his  ])ro|)osed  jonr- 
uev.  and  lindint;'  each  of  tln'se  impra('lieal)le  for  Avant  of  J'unds.  Hall 
aeeepteil  a  ])ro]>osition  I'roin  Mr.  C'hapell  to  go  out  on  a  free  passa^^e  in 
a  Avhaler  with  his  two  Ivskimo  I'rieuds  onlv. 


1:1!  i 


IIAI.L   SAIT.1N(J    IN   TIII^.    "  ."MONTK'EIJ.O." 

July  1,  1S()4.  the  "  Moiitiei'lJo,"  ii  wlialor  of  three  liuudred  and  iifly- 
six  tens  register,  eommaiided  hv  Captain  K.  .\.  ('ha])el  of  Hudson.  New 
York,  sailed  from  ^'ew  London,  aeoonii)anied  by  the  tender  '"Helen  !•".."' 
of  one  hundi'ed  tons.  HalTs  liome  eorrespondeni-c  was  closed  on  lioiinl 
l)y  his  acknowledgments  to  Messrs.  Harpers,  his  publishers;  forwardiii'^ 
to  tlii'm  his  last  cori'ccted  itrooi-sheets  of  the  vohnue  of  the  •■  Ijc- 
seaichcs."'  Arriving  at  St..Iolins,  he  received  from  U.S.  ("oi.sul  l.cacli 
and  other  citizens  many  t(d<ens  of  kiinbiess  and  assistance  to  his  onilii. 
Till'  ••  Moiiticello "'  sailed  again  (tn  the  ISth. 

( )ii  the  "JSth  Hudson's  Straits  were  eutered,  and  tlie  shij)  shaped  In  r 
course  for  Kesolutiou  Island.  Her  delay  in  passing  through  uiiuli 
lloating  ice  was  available  for  taking  the  bearings  of  the  pi'oiiiiiifiii 
headlands  along  the  shores  of  the  old  Meta  Licognita  of  Quei'u  Lli/a- 
beth  :  across  the  strait  lay  the  (dd  Frobislier  region. 

'I'lie  ship's  log  of  each  day  for  a  time  showed  much  the  same  varying;' 


hltv- 


N 


I'W 


iKiaru 


I'diiiu 


.(■;ii- 


)nilil. 


Ill  III 


llllr 


lllirlll 


hzii- 


!   M 


/Villi. 


Il; 


*  1 1 
i  \  I 


208 


AMKIMCAN    KXI'LOUATIONS    IN   THE   ICK   ZONES. 


rccorcl ;  for  a  lew  hours  she  moved  t'orwtinl  under  a  favorable  hic/.e, 
or  else  it  was  taek,  tack,  tlie  wind  dead  ahead ;  she  bored  hei  w  ay 
through  the  i>aek,  or  meetinj^  an  iiui)assal)le  barrier  made  fast  to  an  icf- 
berg.  August  1,  her  iron-plated  bow  struck  so  heavily  on  the  lniiii- 
mocks,  that  her  crew  were  in  waiting  to  juni[)  from  her  for  their  li\ts. 
Walruses  were  more  than  once  seen  basking  in  the  ice;  undislin  lud, 


POLAR  OF  HUDSON'S   STRAIT. 

they  raised  their  ferocious  heads  as  the  ship  swept  by,  and  then  lollod 
over  into  the  sea. 

August  3. — A  huge  Polar  was  captured.  On  the  chase  of  iliis 
animal  by  a  boat's  crew,  Bruin  soon  scented  his  pursuers,  and  wliin  a 
mile  off,  jie  shuffled  to  and  fro  on  the  ice,  shook  his  head,  showed  his 
tusks  and  roared  furiously  at  them;  then,  dropping  stern  foremost  into 
the  sea,  began  a  swim  at  the  rate  of  fully  six  knots.  Ebierbing's  rille.  at 
the  distance  of  fifty  yards,  brought  him  a  lifeless  carcass  on  the  water, 


HALL   LANDS   ON    DEPOT    ISLAND.  209 

jiikI  ill  thirty  nnmites  tVoin  the  beginning;  df  the  chnse  it  uas  on  hoard 

^|ii|,.     Some  of  the  iiieiisureinents  of  Ninoo  No.  1  were:  — 

Kstiiimloil  wi'ight l,UH»llts. 

L»'iij,'tli  from  snout  to  t'lul  of  tail t<  ft.  .'iA  in, 

Ciiriimforoncc  of  tht-  niiildio 7  ft.  4  in. 

Lcnjilh  of  front  teetli,  iNicli 7  in. 

'llic  Eskimo  had  seiireely  iiuished  cuttinjj  up  this  I'ohir,  w  hen  he 
\viis  I'll  lor  a  second  one  wliich  was  seen  aslee[)  some  two  mik's  from  the 
ship,  iind  he  secured  the  prize  after  twelve  shots,  the  twelfth  piercing  the 
brain.  The  number  of  sliots  is  not  unusual,  a  bear  sometimes  set-ming 
to  hiive  tlie  fabled  lives  of  the  cat. 

I'ohir  No.  1  was  immensel}'  fat,  his  paunch  was  empty.  'V\\v  skin, 
the  I'at,  and  the  meat  were  saved.  The  meat  was  eaten  and  p.irtially 
relished  by  the  crow ;  the  inwards,  except  their  fat  covering,  were 
thrown  away,  as  unhealthful.  From  the  two  bears  over  seventy  gallons 
of  good  oil  were  secured;  in  the  paunch  of  the  second  bear  were  found 
about  six  gallons  of  seal  oil. 

The  ship's  course  across  the  bay  was  ended  on  the  20th  by  her 
anchoring  at  Depot  Island,  hit.  63°  47'  N.  Ion.  89°  51"  W.  The  English 
name  of  the  island  had  been  giveu  to  it  by  Captaiu  Chapel  on  a  former 
voyage,  the  Eskimo  name  being  Pik-e-u-la. 


■ 


UNFORTUNATK   LANDINGS. 

But  the  landing  here  was  again  a  grievous  disai)[)ointmcnt  to  the 
explorer.  He  had  hoped  to  do  some  good  surveying  work  on  Marble 
Island,  the  original  destination  of  the  two  ships,  and  perhaps  to  discover 
the  remains  of  the  most  unfortunate  Expedition,  under  Knight  and 
Barh)w,  which  perished  there  in  1719.  Mate  Chester,  who  accom[)anied 
the  party  to  the  island,  estimated  the  weight  of  IlalTs  boat  and  outfit 
at  only  one  thousand  four  hundred  pounds.  It  was  twenty -eight  feel. 
long,  with  a  five  feet  ten  inch  beam,  and  of  but  twenty-six  inches  (h-pth, 
wiii'u  fully  loaded. 

The  whaler  left  the  harbor  on  her  first  cruise  of  the  season,  and  Hall 
began  his  five  years'  Arctic  life;  a  tent  was  erected  and  some  ol)serva- 
tions  made  for  position.  The  game  secured  on  the  22d  footed  up  nine 
petuhirks  aud  one  wild  goose. 


(• 

i 

.  \ 

1: 

)!  i 


210 


AMKKK^AN    KXI'LOUATIONS    IN   THE   ICE   ZOXES, 


lie  had  nou  the  olVer  uf  an  iissistiint  in  a  Mr.  ilu(h)li)h,  one  oi  i||^ 
crew  of  a  whaU'r  which  had  come  in;  and  as  the  man  had  spt-iii  mit. 
winter  anionj;  the  Innuits,  was  recommended  by  the  mate  of  the  sliii,. 
and  (U'(.lared  liimsell"  ready  to  go  on  the  proposed  jonrney,  two  or  tlirtc 
years  inhmd,  he  was  ac(!epted  altt'r  i)elng  fully  told  the  (hirkest  m(|,. 
of  the  experience  ho  might  he  (iulhtd  to  puss  through.  On  the  J'.ttli 
the  tender  ''Helen  F."  sailed  with  the  l)arty  (»f  four  for  Wager  llivci. 
and  the  next  day  the  captain  landed  at  "  Whale  Point,"  whicli  \\f  h,.. 
lieved  on  the  river;  by  Hall's  observations  afterwards  it  proved  Im  \u- 
forty  miles  south  of  the  point  of  the  captain's  reckoning.  This  wms  a 
second  and  yet  more  grievous  disappointment,  and  it  caused  the  loss  oi 
a  whole  yar  to  the  objects  in  view;  for,  had  the  landing  l)een  <iii  th, 
river,  the  journey  to  Repulse  Bay  could  have  been  easily  made  helurc 
the  season  closed,  and  winter  quarters  secured  there  with  i)reparatiniis 
for  the  si)ring  journey.  Hut  there  was  no  correcting  the  error.  Ueaih- 
ing  a  little  harbor,  Hall  and  Rudolph  went  waist-deej)  in  the  water  to 
haul  the  boat  "Sylvia"  ashore,  and  a  cache  was  soon  made  for  st(»ro!>. 
The  position  of  this  "first  encampment"  was  lat.  04°  35' N.,  Ion.  S7 
83  W. 


M 


iiM' 


A  single  white  man  as  leader,  with  a  compi-.nion  who  soon  provcil 
useless  as  an  assistant,  a  desolate  region,  and  winter  almost  at  hand! 
But  here  was  a  man  of  brave  heart  .and  of  experience.  Up  the  shallow 
Welcome  of  Sir  Thomas  Rowe  the  little  craft  .  )W  coasted,  piloted  Iiv 
the  Eskimo,  Ebierbing  (Joe),  on  whom  the  party  were  for  a  long  season 
to  be  dependent  for  their  steersman  as  well  as  hunter.  Hall  wrote  in 
('ha[)ol  that  American  whalers  who  had  opened  up  the  fishing  within 
the  currents  and  eddies  <if  the  Welcome  must  be  good  navigators; 
for  the  "Sylvia,"  drawing  about  eighteen  inches,  often  tomdied  on 
her  course,  and  no  channel  could  be  found.  After  an  ailvainc  n( 
but  a  few  miles,  Joe  sighted  a  tiipik  (skin-tent),  and  soon  afterward  ,i 
native  came  toward  the  boat,  gun  in  hand.  A  sharp  pull,  and  a  lta|i 
from  the  bow,  and  Hall  had  made  his  first  new  friend  in  Oiahi,  ;i 
native  more  than  once  to  be  hereafter  referred  to  in  the  story  <'!'  this 
and  of  later  vovages. 


TUACKH   OK    l-'KANKI.INM    MKN. 


211 


grKSTroNs  as  tc  kkan'kmn. 

At  a  tcntiiij^-place  (Noo-wook  )  close  ut  liaiid,  Oii-t'-hi,  ciiUod  by  llic 
whiicrs  All)ort,  Ar-too-a  (tlioir  Anj^cko),  called  Frank,  and  Ar-iiiou,  the 
Willi',  and  tlieir  jjeople,  wero  at  onee  (juestioned,  tlironeh  'I'on-koo-litod, 
altiiiil  Franklin's  lost  men.  'J'huir  story  was,  that  years  a^<»  there  \v«'re 
two  ships  lost  near  Neit-ehi-Ue,  and  that  a  j^reat  many  Kod-lu-nas  died. 
Sniiie  starved,  and  sonu;  wt^re  frozen  to  death  ;  hnt  there  were  i'onr  that 
dill  not  (lit-.  With  the  enthnsiastic  desire  to  eateh  what  he  eould  of 
.siK.'li  new.s,  Hall  as  promptly  accepted  this,  and  his  conlidencc  was 
strengthened  by  the  natives  ])ointing  ont  on  the  vVdmiralty  chart  not 
only  liepulse  Bay,  but  the  track  of  Dr.  Kae,  whom  they  professed  to 
jiuvc  seen.  Ar-too-a  gave  him  an  account  of  Ou-lig-buck,  one  of  Uaii's 
iiiterpret<?rs,  and  of  his  wounds  received  in  the  hunt,  his  story  corre- 
sponding with  the  record  given  by  Uae  himself  in  his  expedition  of 
184t;-47. 

All  the  natives  advised  Hall  that  he  could  not  reach  Repulse  I'ay 
at  that  late  season  of  the  year;  that  he  would  not  find  any  Innuits 
there,  as  they  always  spent  the  winter  elsewhere  to  kill  the  seal  and 
walrus;  and  that  if  he  coidd  get  there,  he  would  be  too  late  to  kill 
any  Tuk-too.  They  would  go  themselves  to  the  bay  next  season,  and 
then  to  Neit-chi-lle,  and  if  he  would  spend  the  winter  at  Noo-wook, 
they  would  give  him  all  the  Tuk-too,  walrus,  seal,  and  bear-meat 
iio(!(led,  reindeer  furs,  and  assistance.  He  decided  of  necessity  to  stay 
with  them. 

'fhe  l^tli  of  Septeniber  was  a  day  of  gale.  The  Welcome  was 
hislu'd  into  fury  by  the  north  wind,  which  drove  far  inland  everything 
like  game.  The  moon  was  full  at  Oh.  Om.  Greenwich  time.  On  the 
*;()ing  (K)wn  of  the  sea,  Hall  and  his  new  man  Friday,  with  Ar-too-a 
and  .Joe,  went  out  in  swift  jjursuit  of  an  ook-gook  (^Plmca  harhata) 
which  had  been  seen  drifting  down,  seemingly  asleep;  but  the  cautious 
soal  waked  at  the  sound  of  the  oars  and  disappeared. 

With  the  rapid  change  of  the  season  the  nights  began  to  be  cold, 
ice  was  forming  on  the  fresh-water  lakes,  and  there  were  signs  of  an 
apitroaching  snow-storm.     A  sheltered  place  for  the  tui)iks  became  a 


>' 


Mii^l 


I 


'   f 


01  o 


AMEIIICAN   EXI'LOIIATIOXS   TX    THE   ICE   ZOXES. 


necessit}'.  On  the  18th  Tlairs  journal  says:  "It  lias  been  nioviiif^^-dnv 
with  us,  and  an  interesting  picture  might  have  been  seen,  —  the  Inn  nits 
and  tlie  two  Kod-lu-nas,  with  packs  on  our  backs,  tramping  ahmcr 
towards  our  destined  new  home.     Ohl  Motlior  Ook-bar-loo  had  for  her 


Hh 


^  ^vS^^5>i>"''~''■^"^'^^'^^^/^s^v 


i 

■;  i 

1 

<l 

i 

'l:i.«iii 

SNOW-l'AUTUlDGES. 

pack  u  monstrous  roll  of  reindeer-skins,  which  was  topped  with  kettles 
and  pans  and  various  little  instruments  used  by  Innuits  in  their  dn- 
iviestic  affairs,  while  in  her  hand  she  carried  spears  and  poles  and  otlicr 
things  that  need  not  be  mentioned  here.  Ar-too-a  had  for  liis  iunk 
his  tent  and  ])ole,  his  gun  and  et  ceteras  in  liis  hand.  His  wifi'  Ii;h1 
a  huge  roll  of  reindeer-skins  and  other  things,  much  of  the  characUr 
of  Ook-bar-loo's.     Tlie  dogs  had  saddle-bags,  and  tojjping  them  wi'ir 


A    "COMFOKTARLE    HOME.' 


213 


pannikins  and  such  varied  things  as  are  always  to  be  found  in  In- 
miii  use.  Ebierbing  had  for  his  pack  our  tent  and  some  live  or  six 
ttiit-iioles,  while  in  his  hands  he  carried  his  gun.  Charley  Rudolph 
hail    a    large    roll    of    reindeer-skins,    carrying    also    numerous    tent- 


c 
c 


lip 

111,  li  li.'l',  !■  1,1;.'.   ,     ..i!(   \il.  y;I|  ,/ 


i|l!|il  ilii'Tl'' 


l!|!lt 


ii' vwv,vf:i!i'if:;i!Mi: 


Indies.  Too-koo-litoo  had  deerskins,  and  in  lier  hands  various  things. 
1  canii'd  on  my  shoulder  two  riHes  and  one  gun,  cueh  in  covins; 
iiiuh'r  one  arm  my  compass  ti'ijtod.  and  in  one  hand  my  little  l)ask('t, 
winch  held  my  pet  AVard  chronometer,  and  in  the  other  my  trunk 
tif  instruments." 


,   I 


; 


H 


1 


■  i 


hi:: 


il 


'ihii 


3!! 


il:  llitt' 


214 


AMKHICAN    KXPLOIIATIONS    IN    THE   ICK   ZONKS. 


The  Iiiimits  then  brouglit  out  IVoin  their  deposits  the  reindeer-skins 
cached  in  the  suninier.  The  weight  of  tliese,  borne  by  the  women. 
was  as  niueh  as  one  hundred  pounds  to  each.  At  their  distributidii 
the  women  were  allowed  to  choose  the  best. 

The  ground  was  now  covered  with  snow,  the  lakes  bore  a  ntairs 
weight,  and  the  heavy  weather  on  the  coast  drove  the  game  inhind. 
Flocks  of  the  Ptarnmjan  (snow-partridges)  were  found  after  ciu  h 
snowfall.  In  midwinter,  at  a  distance  of  ten  feet,  they  are  scarcely  dis- 
tinguishable from  the  snow. 

By  the  help  of  Ou-e-la,  Armou,  and  Joe,  Hall  established  himself  in 
his  first  Avinter  quarters.     He  says  of  his  igloo,  of  ten  feet  only  in 

diameter,  that  his  house 
was  a  building  without  w 
corner  and  without  props 
ir  braces;  the  wall,  rool'. 
and  door  a  unity,  yet  si> 
strong  as  to  defy  the  pow- 
er of  the  fiercest  Arctic 
gales.  Two  months  aftei- 
ward  he  wrote :  "  I  ex- 
changed ten'  for  snow- 
house,  and  have  been  all  the  time  as  comfortable  as  I  ever  have  been  in 
my  life.  You  would  be  quite  interested  in  taking  a  walk  through  my 
winter  quarters;  one  main  igloo  for  myself  and  Eskimo  friends,  and 
three  others,  all  joined  to  the  main,  for  storehouses.  A  low,  crooked 
passage-way  of  fifty  feet  in  length  leads  into  our  dwelling." 

From  this  date  until  near  the  first  day  of  the  year  following,  his  suji- 
plies  of  food  and  his  visits  and  intercourse  with  the  natives  continued 
to  be  without  serious  discomfort.  His  experience,  however,  even  of 
this  first  season  began  to  correct  some  of  the  impressions  of  the  quali- 
ties of  the  p]skimos,  on  whom,  in  his  first  volume,  he  frequently  be- 
stows the  epithets  "noble  and  generous,"  "simple  and  freehearted." 
In  common  with  all  Arctic  voyagers  lie  could  not,  indeed,  have  faile(l 
to  be  offended  at  the  outset  by  the  constant  witness  of  their  un- 
cleanly habits,  and  had  written  in  his  notes,  two  years  before,  tliat 


GUOUNn-PLAN  OF   HALL'S   FIHST  KU.OO. 


UNCLEANLY    HABITS 


215 


win  II  II  white  man  for  the  tirst  time  enters  a  tupik,  lie  is  nauseated 
with  ('verything  lie  sees  and  smells  —  even  disgusted  with  tiie  looks  of 
the  iiiitives.  He  would  see  a  company  of  what  you  would  call  a  dirty 
set  111  human  beings,  mixed  up  among  masses  of  nasty,  uneatable 
llcsli.  skins,  blood,  and  bones,  scattered  all  around;  and,  hanging  over 
ii  loiii;'.  low  flame,  the  Oo-koo-sin  (stone-kettle)  black  with  soot  and  oii, 
(ii!;;!  with  black  meat,  swimming  in  a  smoking  Huid,  as  if  made  by 
hdiliii;'"  down  the  dirty  scrapings  of  the  butcher's  stall,  while  the  disluis 
,iut  III'  which  the  soup  is  taken  would  turn  his  stomach,  especially 
wiitii  he  saw  the  dogs  wash  them  out  with  their  tongues  before  he  used 
iliciii.  He  had  added  to  this  that  there  was  no  alternative  but  to  sub- 
mit to  tlieir  customs  and  be  one  of  them.  On  this  second  voyage  his 
tirst  i>atient  was  one  from  whose  face,  by  perb.'asion,  he  sponged  off, 
with  soap  and  water,  a  thick  coat  of  primitive  soil.- 

His  companionship  at  the  feasts  was  now  not  more  satisfactory,  as 
rt'giuds  these  native  habits.  At  a  general  invitation,  October  21),  the 
entertainment  was  held  in  two  connected  igloos.  In  one,  the  women 
sat  Turk-fashion  on  a  snow-bench  bed,  around  a  huge  pile  of  raw 
frozen  venison  and  tood-^ioo  (reindeer  fat) ;  in  the  other,  the  men 
crowded  close  together,  the  f^now-walls  of  both  echoing  with  the  Babel 
(if  tongues  and  laughter.  To  begin  the  feast,  a  large  piece  of  venison, 
hehl  between  the  teeth  of  one  of  the  parties,  wa^i  sawed  off  by  the 
knife  close  to  his  nose,  stuffing  his  mouth  full ;  the  main  piece  was 
then  passed  around  for  the  same  process  by  each,  and  the  tood-noo  fol- 
lowed suit.  Then  from  a  dish  of  reindeer  heads  and  necks,  boiled  in 
the  blood,  each  guest  took  a  sup  till  all  was  gone ;  and  when  the 
women  of  the  igloo  had  licked  the  pot  clean,  and  stuffed  the  children 
to  suffocation,  each  one  scraped  the  grease  from  his  face  into  his  moutii, 
and  licked  his  fingers.  A  self-adaptation  to  such  habits,  prolonged, 
too,  through  the  period  of  the  five  years,  seems  explicable  ordy  in  con- 
nection with  Hall's  own  statement,  that  to  keep  his  health  and  acccm- 
[ilisli  anything,  he  must  live  like  this  people.  He  exchanged  frequent 
visits,  and  soon  ate,  drank,  and  slept  as  did  the  natives,  and  he 
wrote  that  the  stronger  the  venison,  even  if  putrid,  the  better  lie  rel- 
ished it.     The  immense  quantity  of  food  swallowed  by  the  Iimuit  at 


11^ 


!  r 


I    : 


pr/:\ 


'«Tl  I  i 


216 


A]ME1UCAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


the  feasts,  which  usually  fuUow  their  privations  of  the  season,  were  nu 
matters  of  surprise.  Like  all  rude  tribes,  they  were  ijrovident  duiintr 
the  open  season,  but  in  a  time  of  enjoyment  excessively  and  thought- 
lessly wasteful.  In  the  month  of  September,  Hall  thought  they  Imd 
several  hundred  reindeer  cached  within  a  circle  of  twenty  miles  in 
diameter,  but  before  December  closed  scarcity  had  begun  to  set  in. 

More  than  one  occasion  was  found  for  the  superstitious  business 
of  An-koo-ting.  On  one  of  these  the  An-ge-ko  (Artooa)  entered  tlie 
crowded  igloo  with  three  men  and  an  old  woman,  asking  immediately  thut 


OAMK  OF  VXV  AND   HALL. 

(Leuriied  probably  from  tbc  Whaltrs.)  —  Siiiilbsonian  Institution. 

the  light  at  the  table  where  Hall  was  seated  to  take  notes,  should  be  put 
out;  the  wick  of  the  lamp  was  then  thumbed  down,  giving  just  light 
enough  to  make  the  scene  gloomy  and  cold.  Then  taking  off  liis  boots 
and  standing  on  the  bed-place,  he  made  a  speech  of  about  ton  minutes, 
his  hoarse  voice  at  times  shaking  the  dome,  and  contrasting  strongly' 
with  the  musical  voice  of  the  women  and  with  Joe's  crying  out  from 
time  to  time,  atee,  atee,  good,  good,  g(»  on.  Among  the  antics  he  dis- 
played, he  grappled  with  two  of  the  strongest  Innuits,  throwing  them 
with  seemingly  supernatural  strength.  The  clmnt  was  low  and  monot- 
onous, while  the  grim,  swarthy  faces  of  the  audience,  sjjectrally  illumi- 
nated by  litful  beams  of  the  lamp,  and  their  dark  bodies  swaying  awk- 


INNUIT   AlklUSEMENTS. 


217 


wan  11 V  to  and  fro  and  keeping  time  with  the  barbarous  music,  made  up 
;i  uihl  and  unearthly  scene.  Not  one  of  the  natives  were  free  from  the 
iiilluonce  of  the  rite,  Joe  and  Hannah  not  excejjted.  Tiie  tribe  showed 
tlie  iiiitnral  love  of  amusement,  —  checkers,  dominoes,  and  the  cup  and 
ball  lu'ing  their  favorite  games. 

A  serio-comic  diversion  was  their  performance  on  the  Kej'-low-tik, 
the  ( 11)1  V  musical  instrument  found  among  them.  The  drum  is  made  of 
a  iiicci'  of  deerskin  stretched  over  a  hoop  made  of  wood  or  bone  from 
tlic  I'm  of  a  whale,  by  the  use  of  a  strong  braided  cord  of  sinew  passed 
ariiiiiid  a  groove  on  the  outside.  The  instrument  weighs  about  four 
p,iiiii(ls.  The  Ken-toon  or  wood- 
en drumstick  is  ten  inches  long, 
and  three  in  diameter. 

••  When  the  Key-low-tik  is 
played  the  performer  holds  the 
drum  handle  in  the  left  hand, 
and  strikes  the  edge  of  the  rim 
o])posite  to  that  over  which  the 
skin  is  stretched.  He  holds  the 
drum  in  ditt'erout  positions,  but 
k('C]is  it  in  a  constant  fan-like 
motion  by  his  hand  and  by  the  blows  of  the  Ken-toon^  struck  alter- 
nately on  the  opposite  sides  of  the  edge.  Skilfully  keeping  the  drum 
vibrating  on  the  handle,  he  accompanies  this  with  grotesque  motions 
(if  the  body,  and  at  intervals  with  n  song,  while  the  women  keep  up 
their  cwn  Innuit  songs,  one  after  another,  through  the  whole  per- 
formance. 

At  the  first  exhibition  which  Hall  witnessed  some  twenty-five  men, 
Avomen,  and  children — all  who  could  leave  home — assembled  to  see 
the  skill  of  the  performers  who  would  try  the  newly-finished  instrument. 
As  usual  the  women  sat  on  the  platform,  Turk  fashion ;  the  men,  be- 
himl  them,  with  extended  legs.  The  women  were  gayly  dressed.  They 
wore  on  each  side  the  face  an  enormous  pig-tail,  nnide  by  wrapping 
tlieii'  hair  on  a  small  wooden  roller  a  foot  in  length,  strips  of  reindeer 
fur  l)eing  wrapped   with  the  hair.     These  were  black   and  white  for 


KEY-LOW-TIK   AND  KEN-TOOX. 


"'::    i» 


!^ 


! 
! 

y 

1  •      :^ 

f 

i                        ; 

. 

li 

i 

i 

i  ■     ' 

.     !! 

■.          1 

t 

'  a  ■ '      1 

.J. 

1 

■ 

!    «    5  . 


218 


AMKIUCAX    KXl'UUtATlONS    IN    THE    ICK    ZONKS. 


tliose  who  had  sons,  and  bhick  only  for  those  wlio  liad  none.  Sliinii  ._r 
ornaments  Avere  worn  on  the  head,  and  on  tlie  breast  they  had  Masdnii'. 
like  aprons,  tlie  groundwork  of  wliieh  was  of  a  flaming  red  eolor,  oi  na- 
niented  with  glass  heads  of  many  colors.  The  women  thus  presenic  1 
a  pleasing  contrast  with  the  dark  visages  of  the  men  in  the  backgroiiinl ; 
while  their  naked  infants  were  playing  here  and  there  in  a  mother's  la]» 
or  peering  out  fro'ni  their  nestling-place  in  the  hood. 

Ook-bar-loo,  Jr.,  was  the  first  performer.  This  young  man  was  a 
son  of  Ever-at,  named  in  Parry's  narrative  of  his  second  voyage  as 
helping  to  draw  one  of  liis  charts.  When  he  tired,  the  women  struck 
up  a  song  for  the  second  performer;  then  stripping  off  their  jackets  to 
be  naked  from  their  loins  up,  the  men  alternately  dealt  each  other's  iirms 
such  fearful  blows  that  Hall  thought  their  very  bones  must  be  broken. 
and  seemed  to  feel  his  own  shoulders  ache.  The  one  who  had  played 
the  Key-loiv-tlk  the  longer,  now  struck  his  blows  without  mittens,  and 
Ook-bar-loo  ere  long  gave  signs  of  surrender.  The  times  varied  fidm 
ten  U)  thirteen  minutes  each. 

Ar-too-a,  Ar-mou,  and  Ou-e-la  followed  as  performers  at  short  intervals. 
one  of  them  making  as  high  as  one  hundred  and  sixty  strokes  in  a  miiime 
with  the  Ken-toon  ;  when  Nu-ker-zhoo,  getting  his  hand  under  the  Key- 
low-tik,  and  dealing  rapid  blows  first  on  one  edge  and  then  on  the  other, 
by  this  jugglery  kept  it  vibrating  in  the  air,  and  brought  out  from  it  the 
same  sounds  as  when  played  in  the  usual  way.  Hall,  being  then  called 
out  by  the  house,  tried  his  hand,  but  in  less  than  three  minutes  tlie 
Key-low-tik  was  on  the  floor,  his  arm  and  wrist  aching  from  the  weight, 
Jind  the  whole  igloo  convidsed  with  laughter.  Joe  was  called  for,  Imt 
was  too  weak  from  recent  sickness  to  perform.  Before  this  part  of  tlie 
exhibition  closed,  the  performers  showed  up  the  differences  in  playinj^ 
as  practised  by  the  neighboring  tribes. 

The  meeting  now  changed  its  character.  Ook-bar-loo,  when  he  re- 
sumed playing,  instantly  extinguished  the  lights,  leaving  only  the  dim 
moon  to  creej)  in  through  the  fresh-water  ice  window  of  the  igloo.  He 
then  commenced  his  talk  with  the  spirits,  accompanied  by  clajipingcf 
ha.rds,  jumping  up  and  down,  sidewa_;S  and  forward,  and  then  backini^ 
out  from  the  igloo  and  retunung.     Dining  all  this  an-koo-ting  one  and 


HALL   AN-KOO-TED. 


210 


aiinilni'  of  the  audience  kept  rei)catin(:j  "words  wliicli  seemed  not  un- 
like iliiise  of  a  penitent  giving  in  his  experience  at  a  revival  meeting." 
Tlic  iiitrv  into  new  igloos  in  November  was  celebrated  by  like  per- 
il,iiniiiccs.  The  An-ge-ko  made  use  of  three  walrus  s]»ears,  one  of 
\vlii(  li   lie  thrust  into  the  wall  of  the  snow-house,  and   then  having  a 


PLAYING   THE    KEY-LOW-llK. 

wrestling  match  with  four  men  on  the  outside,  and  coming  again  into 
ilic  central  igloo,  he  commaiuled  the  lamps  to  be  relit,  and  showed  the 
iieiiiis  of  his  spear  covered  with  blood.  This  he  licked  off  and  then 
Ikstiiii  his  incantations,  addressing  first,  with  head  erect,  the  great 
i'dwer  above,  and  then  with  his  head  on  the  lloor  the  spirit  below. 

Ill  a  time  of  sickness,  in  which  Hall  suffered  from  the  breaking  out 
of  hnils.  he  had  been  prevailed  on  to  be  himself  an-kno-ted.,  and  had  con- 
^dwW^.  to  obey  the  An-ge-ko's  order  that  he  should  never  again  wear 


■ll? 


■iiil 


in 


i   ,. 


■j  ■  i 


220 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE  ICE  ZONES. 


certain  garments,  but  should  burn  them.  So  far  as  h  consenting  to  like 
seemingly  harmless  decrees  his  notes  show  that  he  subjected  himself  to 
their  wishes.  When  he  had  exi)ressed  a  desire  for  a  change  of  food  from 
walrus-meat,  he  received  the  solid  frozen  head  and  neck  of  a  reindeer ;  but 
as  to  put  this  on  the  floor,  or  among  the  other  kinds  of  meat  on  thu 
platform  would  have  prevented  the  catching  of  another  walrus  throiioh- 
out  the  year,  or,  perhaps,  of  taking  any  more,  he  had  to  cut  this  uj), 
watching  closely  that  every  chip  flew  westward  and  not  one  on  the  floor, 
and  he  then  ate  it  soaked  in  rancid  and  stinking  seal-oil,  Innuit  customs 


I  ' 


>\l 


! 


SKK-KOONS. 
Skin-scrapcrs,  half  size,  deposited  at  the  Smithsonian. 

forbidding  the  use  of  any  other.  The  neck  only  could  be  used,  not  the 
head  until  after  the  walrus  season ;  still  he  said  that  he  had  gotten 
so  far  along  in  Innuit  taste  as  to  like  this  very  much ;  but  a  very 
short  time  after,  on  receiving  seasonable  supplies  from  the  whaliiiLf 
shiji,  he  wrote  :  "  What  a  glorious  supper  we  had  to-night.  A  chaiifjc 
now  and  then  in  his  food  is  what  a  white  man  likes.  Even  an  Inmiit 
loves  civilization  food." 

A  more  pleasing  experience  was  that  of  observing  the  Innuit  prc]iar- 
ation  of  the  reindeer  skins  for  dresses  and  bed-coverings;  in  this  the 
women  assisted  the  men.  The  processes  were,  first  to  scrape  the  skin 
by  an  instrument  called  sek-koon,  a  rough  tool  about  six  inches  long 
including  the  handle,  made  of  a  peculiar  kind  of  whet  or  oil  stone, 


■i. 


A    WALHUS-UUNT. 


221 


or  else  of  a  musk-ox  or  reindeer  boue,  or  of  sheet-iron.  The  second 
stt'[i  is  to  dry  the  skins  thoroughly  ;  the  third  to  scrape  again  with 
s(k-k(t(ins,  taking  off'  every  bit  of  the  flesh  ;  the  fourth  to  wet  the  flesh 
si(l(;  and  wrap  it  up  for  thirty  minutes,  and  tlien  again  scrape  with  the 
sek-k(»on  ;  which  hist  operation  is  followed  by  chewing  the  skin  all  over, 
ami  iigain  scra{)ing  and  cross-scraping  witli  the  instrument.  These 
lii!)(iii<»us  processes  Hall  describes  as  resulting  "in  the  breaking  of  the 
ykiii.  making  the  stiff'  hide  soft-linished  like  the  chamois-skin."  The 
whole  work  is  often  completed  witiiin  an  hour. 

The  following  account  of  a  walrus-hunt  is  one  of  several  like  notices, 
largely  condensed  from  the  journals :  — 

At  eight  in  the  morning  Hall  left  his  igloo,  leading  by  a  long  tr.?,ce- 
liiio  one  of  the  large  dogs  which  were  to  be  employed  in  dragging  the 
v/alrus  home ;  several  other  dogs  were  led  by  the  Innuits,  but  by  far 
the  larger  number  were  allowed  to  run  loose,  preceding  or  following 
the  hunters.  The  distance  to  the  walrus-grounds  had  been  for  some 
time  constantly  increasing  as  the  land-floe  widened,  and  the  aninuils, 
accordingly,  shifted  their  feeding-grounds  to  the  new  ice  or  to  the 
iissures  near  its  edge.  Having  crossed  the  half-mile  belt  of  very  rough 
ice  near  the  coast,  and  advanced  about  six  miles,  Hall  came  to  this 
edge.  A  breeze  from  the  north  was  drawing  the  floe  to  the  southward 
at  the  speed  of  a  quick  walk,  and  as  it  j^ressed  heavily  on  the  edge  of  the 
fixed  ice,  the  noise  was  so  terrible  that  he  was  at  times  forced  to  draw 
himself  back  several  paces  from  the  point  to  which  he  had  ventured. 
For  scores  of  miles  to  the  north  and  south,  the  drifting  floe  was  grind- 
ing its  uneven  face  against  the  firm  but  jagged  front  on  which  he  stood. 
.Mounting  a  high  ridge,  he  saw,  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach  seaward 
and  up  and  down  the  Welcome,  a  boundless  field  slowly  moving  on- 
ward toward  the  south,  but  ciushing  to  atoms  miles  and  miles  of  mass- 
ive ice ;  now  rearing  up  mountains  on  mountains,  now  ploughing  up 
acres  into  high  ridges. 

Ou-e-la,  who  had  joined  him,  was  unable  to  reach  a  large  walrus, 
which  rose  in  a  small  water  space  five  fathoms  off,  for  the  "s([ueezed, 
rolling,  craunching  mass  "  was  working  between  the  floes.  He  gave  a 
qui(.'k  signal  to  those  on  the  drifting  floe,  and  Ar-mou  and  Ar-too-a  ran 


t: 
I 


-Ml' 


m 


^  1 


.'I 


1^'! 


U 


i! 


I  I 


222 


AMKIIICAN    KXI'LOKATIONS    IX   'VUV.    UK   ZONKS. 


miiidly  towanl  tlic  wulnis;  hut  just  as  Ar-iiidii  liad  liis  liai'[)<»(iii  i  lisi.l, 
till!  animal  (lisa|»ji('ariMl  iji  the  water.  Hall  and  Oii-u-hi  tliun  ilii.ttcil 
tlicir  slcjis  tiiwai'd  tin;  luosc  ]iacls  wjiicli  tiu;  (ttlicrs  had  alicadv  l;,iiiiii|. 
to  rrach  wliifh  ihi;  shai'|)  vya  <»!'  tliu  I'lnnii  (piickly  discjoNcii'd  tin'  i.iilv 


1' 


ihl 


(ossihlc  d'ossinuf. 


A 


(]ni(!k  run,  a  lew  Hti'[)S  ovi'i'  slnd^c  and  jxtwilrii  (| 


i(;(>,  a  hsij)  IVoni  this  tnndtlintr  l)l()(-k  to  tliat  one,  and  a  linal  leap  lo  the 
drivini,^  lioc,  luuunht  the  two  satVly  ovt-r.  Walruses  could  now  hf 
soon    in   eveiy  direction;  sonu^  hultiniLj  up  i<'i!  iVannients  iVoin  the  soljil 


II 


lain;  some  with   their  lieads   thiouuh  tlu;   l)Utted    holes;  soin 


e  Willi  ;i 


largo  j»art  ol'  the  hody  ahove  the  ice.  Thu  hunters  were  l)usily  al  work. 
In  one  direction  two  Innuits  weic  un(U'r  full  run  for  tlu;  same  hlnwiiii^r 
walrus,  the  dogs  running  around  them.  All  at  once  these  liiiiiicrs 
stoj){»ed,  lor  the  animal  had  taken  the  ahirm  a.id  gone  <(own.  In  an- 
othiiv  direction  an  excited  grouj)  were  seen,  one  throwing  the  l.tinc, 
another  h(tlding  on  a  line,  one  jumping  this  way  and  another  lliai, 
for  a  walrus  a|)i)eared  to  he  a  secured  prize.  With  some  ditilieulty  I  hill 
gained  tliis  s|)ot,  hut  found  only  one  Innuit  remaining,  while  the  icd- 
<h>ned  ice  and  the  iiole  showed  a  sevei'(!  coiilliet.  Shoo-slie-ark-iinnk 
had  harj)oniicd  a  very  large  walrus,  and  he  and  l^hierhing  (.lot  )  had 
hmced  it  until  it  was  almost  (h^ad.  The  harpoon,  however,  sliji])e(| 
and  the  animal  escajjed,  Joe  losing  his  lance-head. 


out 


A 


n    extensiv(!    Hoe   o 


.f  tl 


wa 


Iru 


sing  lee 


was  uow^  seen  sinKiinii 


ov(!r  tlu!  ice  on  which  they  stood,  and  advancing  from  the  north  at  tlu' 
speed  of  a  moderate  walk;  its  tliickness  was  two  inches,  the  same  as 
that  on  which  they  stood.  They  were  two  miles  from  the  land-lliu'. 
upon  ice  which  ])ont  like  leather  at  every  step,  often   yielding  two  or 


iree  mclies  wi 


thout  a  fracture,  and  it  would  not  do   to  remain   al   rest 


on  such  ice.     They  were  compelled  to  he  eonstantl}'  in  motioi 
situation  demanded. 


1  as   i  he 


ilall 


lasteiied  to  a  stM-ond  urouooi  Innuits,  who  were  as 


f  Ii 


l)iisil 


V  (U'cll- 


j)ied  as  the  liist.  and  in  a  few  moments  found  himself  pulling  away  wiili 
others  on  a  line  which  was  last  to  a  large  walrus.     After  a  lew  pulls. 


c  \\:i^ 


the  half-killed  animal  came  iij)  in  a  flouncing,  tumhling  way.      11 
furiously  mad.  for  he  had  not  only  heen  harpooned  hut  lanced  and  linni'd 
again  and  again,  so  that  at  every  blow,  quarts  of  thick  dark  Wood  wciu 


IIAM.S    SKillT 


NVAMMS. 


'im 


II   ii|>,  sciitttM'in«4;  itself  iihrnit,  |);iiiitiii;4  tin-  icf,  the  «ln<^rs,  aiid  tli 


\   \\i 


til  ii  ciiiusoii  liiu;.      L<M»l<iii<;  oil  the  scnif.  Hall  urott":  — 


"What  a  liorribk'-lookiiiL^  (Meat lire  a  walrus  is.  especially  in  the  I'aee  ! 
It  Iwuks  wicked,  (U'testahly  had.  Indeed,  a  devil  could  not  have  a  uku'o 
ivjiiiNive  look  to  Tui'k  or  Christian.  A  hard  death  did  this  one  die. 
II  ■  louuht  desneratelv,  but  steel  and  sinewv  arms,  under  the  control  of 

O  1  *  ' 


;i; 


224 


AMEIlIfAN   EXI'LOUATIONH   IX   THK   U'K  ZONKS. 


t!(M»l  c(>iirii^(M)iis  liciirts,  liiiiilly  (toiHiucrtMl.  As  ol'tcii  us  In-  cuiiic  ii|i  t,, 
IddW,  111!  was  iiH'l  hy  tlic  Uiuv.o  of  the  Imipooiicr,  who  thrust  i(  i|iih  !< 
uimI  (U'fp  into  (he  heart  anil  rhunud  away  until  thu  walrus  wiilnli,  u 
by  ilivin^'  iimlur  the  ii;i!  anil  flippcring  away  to  thr  h-n^Mh  of  thr  Im,.. 
Tiicn,  at  (Mich  now  appearunco,  ho  wouUl  fasti-n  his  long  ivor\  insk 
(one  hail  hoon  hvokon  olV,  probably  in  sojuo  liglit)  upon  thi'  cilgc  i.f  i||,. 
ice,  anil  turning  his  eyes  arounil  would  spenil  his  fury  on  the  lirsi  ol  his 
enemies  who  approached.     lie   then  again  llipi)ereil  back,  and,  as  ilii> 

uplifted  lance  was  poisi-d,  moved  vinlmilv 
forward  and  upward,  throwing  lurwaid 
his  head  with  a  circling  sweep,  as  il  to 
drive  his  tusk  to  the  very  heart  ol  his 
assailant. 

"  What  a  terrible  blow  a  walrus  can  (hal 
witb  his  hi'ad  and  tusks,'  When  he  raiiu^ 
up  to  breathe,  which  he  did  several  liiiics 
through  dil'fercnt  holes,  resting  with  his 
tusk  hooked  on  to  the  edge  of  the  ice,  at 
every  breathing  he  expelled  through  liis 
white-walled  uu)uth  u  frightful  streniii  of 
hot  life-blood,  and  as  the  hungry  (hii;s 
rushed  up  fearlessly  to  the  very  fountain 
whence  the  luscious,  savory  gore  issued, 
the  dying  walrus  quickly  raised  his  head 
and  struck  it  forward  with  trenieii<hiiis 
force,  though  to  little  purpose,  as  the  dogs  were  too  (piiek  (hi<l^iiiif 
the  blows.  Shoo-she-ark-nook  at  last  cut  a  gash  in  the  neck  with  his 
peloud  (long  knife)  and  thrust  the  point  into  the  very  marrow  ol"  the 
spine." 

A  fresh  opening  was  now  made  in  the  ice,  and  to  this  the  caicass 
was  towed,  "^riieu  the  line  made  fast  to  the  tough  skin  on  the  iinse 
was  taken  to  the  i)oint  of  the  hummock  five  fathoms  distant,  and  liiiclc 
again  through  a  hole  in  the  same  tough  skin.  With  this  purchase,  live 
of  the  party  pulled  away  on  the  line,  gradually  sliding  the  carcass  upiiii 
the  ice.     It  weighed  about  two  thousand  two  hundred  pounds. 


A  WALurs  lIKAn. 

From  the  slii|)pinL'-li<iiiHe  i>t  Williaiiii  &  Ilavrn, 
New  Lundoii. 


m:w   vKAi;  s  i>,\v 


•J  2.') 


'I'liis  (li)iic.  ciicli  liiimil  s|ii'aii^'  to  llif   task   dl'  culling  optMi   llic  cai- 
(•ii»  liDiii  liciid  to  tail,  that  it  iiii^'lit    t-n\('i'  as   lai'^c  an  aiiui  as  |Missi)>U> 

nil  llir  i*'*';    yi't'  tllc  IlKiliicllt    tlity  t'dllllliclicrd    In    liaill    U|),  tilt'   i(;('  Ix'^'iUI 

In  111  ml,  and  by  tin-  time  tlu'  Wiiliiis  was  (lisciiihfivvcllrd,  tlir  water  tov- 
ii  six  iiiclii's  <Icc|i.      lie  was  now  ml   np,  lon^it ndinall_> ,  inlo  liner 


cir 


|i;iii^.  w  illi«nit.  lM!in;4'  skinned,  and  while   this  enttiiii;'  was  Muino' (m,  th«' 
(Id-  >  jrted  J  ike  so  many  devils,  and  il  was  ini|iossil)le,  even  w  it  h  a  speai'. 


Ilieni  awav  li'oni  the  lildoii  and  llesli. 


Th 


le   liaekhone.  I  lie   liirhl; 


iiiiil  ;i  small  |)ol"tioii  oi"  the  entrails  oidy  wer((  thmwn  away.      The  edycs 
,i|'  ihe   ltin<;it  ndinal    parts    wfic   then    placed    toj^ether   l»y  lines,  l<i   ^ive 
cai  II  mass  a  ronndetl  shape, 
•h 


I  he  panne!)  aeeitleiitally  lell  mi  Hie  watei',  disiipp(tint iii^  Mali,  who 
wiis  iliinkin^' ol"  a  elain-feast.  lie  had  expected  to  find  tlu!  panncli  well 
lillnl.as  nsnal,  with  clams,  clean  <d'  their  shells,  and  Hiivs  that  rarely  is 
;iii\  part  of  a  shell  lart;-er  tiian  a.  dime  i'oiind  within  the  animal.  Ilav- 
iii'^  iirieii  picked  np  a  single  shell  close  l»y  a  \valriis-h(de.  he  helieved 
ihiil  the  habit  o|'  tlu;  anim:i  is  to  dij;-  imi  one  clam  at  a  time,  and 
ilii'ii  come  np  to  l)l(»w  and  expel  the  shell,  lb*  woiuUns  how  it  opens 
ihc  clam  so  skillully  as  not  to  rracliiic  the  shell. 

The  homeward  journey  was  attended  with  the  nsnal  ti(Mibies  in 
ciiissiiii;'  tissnres  and  renainin^'  the  land-lloe.  I»nt  at  4.o<l  I'.M.  tin;  party 
nnclicd  the  iijlonx.  The  do^s,  divided  into  three  teams,  drew  the  wal- 
rus-rolls, whi(di  slid  aloiii;' over  the  ron^^'h  ice  more  rcNidily  than  a  slerl. 
The  supply  ol"  provisions  from  this  animal  and  iVoin  the  riMiidcer 
(lr|i(isits  visited  as  occasion  re(|nire(l,  snlliced  lor  Hall  and  his  IViends 
ilnoiinh   the   rciniiunder  (d'  the  year. 

.laiiiiary  1,  l8i!r>,  was  a  day  of^ah!  and  drift;  the  day  following;-  Hall 
(vichralcd  as  New  Year's  Day.  Fie  lioisted  the  lla^^  on  liis  own  i,t;Ioo. 
:iiiil  set  a  table  for  bis  luitive  guests,  twenty-five  feet  in  lenjiftb  ext(;nd- 
iii^  into  the  liuts  of  On-lc-a,  Ar-nioii,  and  Nu-ker-zboo.  Il  was  made  of 
M:i-(liests,  and  its  seats  were  snow-blocks  (tiishioned  witb  deerskins, 
lie  treated  to  vegetable  and  pemmican-soiip,  and  sea-bread  with  coffee, 
isinglass  jelly,  and  raisins  for  dessert ;  ami  bis  twentv-one  frown 
persons,  when  rising  from  tiie  table,  i)Ut  Ibeir  hands  over  the   places 


Ml 


:l 


i 


m 


I) 


i  I 


At} 

t   ;i 


226 


AMElllCAN    EXPLfHIATIONS    IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


where  they  had  stowe^l  the  good  things  and  cried  out  "Good,  very 
good  I  "  Giving  notice  through  Joe  that  he  had  a  speech  to  make,  he 
eiideavored  to  impress  them  with  his  confidence  that  he  expected  lliem 
t(;  go  with  him  next  spring  to  Neit-clii-lle.  Too-koo-litoo  told  him  tlmt 
they  were  all  much  pleased. 

But  within  a  few  days  he  had  reason  to  apprehend  that  his  (U)nfi. 
dence  rested  on  a  frail  basis,  for  he  learned  that  the  larger  number  of 


NEW  YEAR'S  DAY  IGLOO. 
I,  entrance ;  II,  central  igloo  ;  B,  bed  platform;  F,  floor;  Ii,  lamp. 

this  people  were  expecting  to  visit  again  the  whalers  in  the  bay,  and 
remain  there  too  long  to  move  forward  seasonabiy  with  him  in  the 
spring.  His  journal  says,  "  Innuits  are  a  strange  peo})le  to  deal  with ; 
a  white  man  to  get  along  with  them  must  have  the  patience  of  a  ,)vh." 
He  must  go  down  himself  with  a  small  party  only  to  the  ships. 

Well  supplied  with  venison  and  walrus-meat  and  blubber  and  rein- 
deer furs  for  traffic,  his  party  of  seventeen  left  their  igloos  on  throe 
sledges,  drawn  by  twenty-two  dogs,  the  tliermometer  registering'  72° 
below  freezing  point.      Following   mostly  the  southward  track  nf  a 


IGLOO    UriLDlNO    OX    A    .lOUUNKY. 


227 


fniiiicr  visiting  party,  they  spent  their  first  night  in  one  of  its  old 
ijrlods,  seventeen  miles  from  Noo-wook,  finding  it  necessary  first  to 
elfiir  itut  the  snow-drifts  and  build  two  smaller  snow-huts. 

The  work  upon  these  is  thus  described:  "While  one  of  Ou-e-la's 
^iv.s  shovelled  out  the  snow-drift  from  the  main  hut,  the  other  in- 
eicasi^il  the  thickness  of  its  walls  by  banking  up  more  snow  on  the 
,,utsiil<^.     Hall's  offered  assistance  to  the  women  in  this  work  of  using 


GROUND-PLAN  OP  IGLOO  BUILT  ON  A  JOURNEY. 

the  por-kin  (snow-shovel)  was  refused  by  the  husband.  The  drift 
l)eiiif;  thrown  out  of  the  way,  Ou-e-la  then  entered  and  made  a  bed 
platlnrin  on  each  side  of  tlie  igloo,  dividing  two  by  a  trench  a  foot  in 
(k'ptli. 

riic  women  and  children  having  then  crowded  in,  made  up  the  beds 
liy  si^cading  over  the  ])latf()rms  their  furred  deerskins,  and  lit  the 
three  liie-lamps  to  melt  snow  for  the  thirsty-  The  men  on  entering 
'arefully  beat  their  jackets  ariu  korflln  (outside  breeches),  witli  their 
(irrcir-fars,  to  prevent  th^^  warmth  of  the  igloo  during  the  night  from 


in 

ifflR 

llilili 

■ 

III  11 

-:    i 

11  ii 

; 

p 

H       H 

; 

if       II 

11          Ii 

■ 

1    i;lillHEI 

§ 

J 

■  '■ 

r 

'1 1 1 

'     1    H 

■l  ' 


lli-l 


ii- 


t 


!  j 


■  K 


•      3 


»r 


;  M 


b 


II 


i 


M 


OO 


T2H 


VMI'.IJU'AN    KXI'I.OI!  ATIONS    IN     rill';    UK    '/nNi;s. 


inciting  llic  snow   ii|iiMi  llifiii:   I'nr  il'  it  iii;;iiii    Ww/v  ti|iiiii  lliciii  ii  \v,,ii|,| 


mukc     (he    ',;;u  incuts     li(';i\\    iis    well     iis    co 


I.I. 


Iiis    I  lioiniioh    I. 


:ili: 


r«<(|iiir'.  (I  ;'i  lull  liiili' liiM'i'.       riic    l.'iii|M'i';ihir(>  williiii    llic  liiii,  imhIi 
inlluciicr   ol'   llic    Iiiiii|is  mikI    of   llic   crow  ij.  (|iii('KI\    rose    tVoni    II 
Wils    ;ic;iiii    lowered    l»\    the    \«'iiisoii    in    tlie    (reiieli,    wliieli,    when    | 
l>rtMi!;lit   in.  smoked  ;is  if  on  tire.       To  |ire\eiit   the  loni;iie  iind  li|..  ii,,,,, 
IxMiie    iVo/eii    111    the    lirst    l;isle   i^\'   the    nieut.it  w  iis  held,  I'or    ; 


!•   Ilu 


llsl 


inents  in  inillened   liiinds.  :inil  luciithed  niion.  I  he  eliildi 


en  s  sliMi 


w    llh 


1     IliMli. 


>li|    Mwliih'    in    their    | 


>;irenls    nio 


iiths.       .\l    it    r.M.    tl 


e     w  hoi 


Ml\ 


hloih 


liliddled  looethcM'  Tor  (he  ni^lil,  >inu\i<    e(nii|ielled   to  sit    ii|trij;li( 

I  he    hMijv    iionis   (»r   sh-ep.      S(>\eii(eeii    lireMl  hers  were  sejiled  up,  wilh 


Avvy  snow  l»loel\.  in  i!  Inn    Inil 


Ml    leel     r-    ( 


M  ISl  I  I'    Ml 


liiiineter  !    (  )n  op| 
ol  the  lioueh,  nine  wen*  on  the  philloini  iind  eii;ht  on  the  otiiei  .   .  \(i\ 


one.  Inniiil   t';ishi(ni.  haviiiu'  the   he;id   towai'd   the  (reneli.      In  ll 


e  niMi  ll 


ing\  l»etW(>en  the  hours  o(  three  and  lour,  the  men  wa!\«'d.  ale  a  ipi;iuiii\ 
o(  deiM'-meal.  siiudved.  and  aeain  went  to  sh'ep.  .\l  \\\i\  the  wlii'li 
pjU'tv    \\(M(>   amused    to    Iind    that    the    laiup-suioke    liati    crxcieci    iluiu 


\\ 


itli   soot,      llall    \\akt'(|  with   '*  a    severe   headache    tVoiii    llie  i-\i 


carlxuiu'    acid    Lias.   c'lMUMaled    l>v    the    Ihrcc    lire-li''lils   and    se'.cnhrii 


mill's.  Ill 


]>oii]^l(\"      .\t  tlu>  chisc  ol' a  sec.'iiti  dav's  journeN  of  twenty-six 
th(^   ieloo   iu^\t    huilt.slaUs   ol"  I'ro/tM!  walrus-hide  were   liuiiu'  on  ^pr.n- 
oriiss\\is(>  near  th(>  to'pol'ihe  hut.  and  I'roiu  these  slahs.  part  iall\ 
In   lh(^  tii'(^-hiiups.  the  (htes  were  \\h\.     On  llic  cNcninn'  of  the  six 
a  v-clcimiiiiL:-  signal  iVoin  the  mast  ol'  llu>  "  Moiilicello  "  caught  tliriu 
.\  month  was  now  spiMit  w  illing'ly  amono'  llu>  olViCiM's  and  crews  ni 
tliiswhahM'  and  tliost^  of  four  others  anchored  near.     The  iiatixcs  iclisli 


I  IlilWi'il 


111  il,i\. 


lU'lS 


lllllj- 


ino:  their  stay   viM  th(^  more,  left    llall  luit    half  his  nmnher  of  he 
fin'  his  velum  ti>  N"iH>-wook  :  lie  1.  id  failiMl  to  l^iM    the  iu-tmiist>  of  a 
tonni   (or  his  spviuo-  journey,  ami  on   his  return  trij)  he  was  liiuilid  liy 
iiis  uati\e  liieiid  tlici;uide  ami  sled-owiier,  to  the  uiipalalablc  feet!  nl 


('(•i,ii  AMI  inN(!i;i{. 


ili(>  wiilnis  iiidr.  TIic  sMinc  mil  i  vc,  SlKiu-slic-iiik-iinnk,  iilsu  slidwcd  si^iis 
,,|' iitsiiHcro  <l(';iliii<;',  in  liis  ;il  lrin|il(Ml  |i(>rsii;isiniiM  In  liis  cMiiiiniiiiniiM  in 
|i,;i\,.  \\\r  wliito  Hiiiii,  iiiid  in  liis  ii|i|iin|ii  iiil  in^  l<i  liis  own  use  summ' 
i|.|j,.|i  ,  iViiin  llillls  i^lim.  ( 'niirnlciicf  cniild  not  well  lie  ni:iililiMniMl, 
I  \i'\  llif  k<i(llnn:i  vv:is  wliolly  dcprndrnl  nn  lliis  lUHcrlinn  |irii|i|<'. 
'I'lir  scvnity  nl'  (lif  cnld,  iind  llic  ruiis(M|iicnl  slinrtminj^  of  |»in- 
,,  now  Itrniiii  III  |)i'(»vt>  Vfiy  snicMis.  Scid  liinils  were  liiirlv 
.liil.  ;ind  \\\v  \v;inl  id'  Idnliln-.'  I'nr  li^lil  iind  lien!  i^iivr  ^irjil 
'I'lir    inMiMMl    111     M;m'l;    II    s;ivs:    "liow    cliccrlcss    is  our 


;I1H 


MSIilir 


■<iiri' 


IIIUM^'IMI'S- 


,„|,i(i'  Tlu'  ntoss-wiidv  of  oiir  l;ini|),  \\lii<li,  wlicn  \\r  liiivc  oiii'  'nil 
siipi'h  "I'  Idnltltrr,  t^iv's  ii  coiilinnily  oi'  ii:iiii('  of  I  w  o  I'rrl  sis  in(dics, 
!>;  ii;ii  I'lW  I'd  down  lo  ii  siMi|ili'  \vi(l\-|ioiii|,  iind  niiikcs  tlic  <;looiii  iiioir 
lliiin  tolal  diirkiirs-;.      I/oiim- Mmj  cnsl-dou  n  Intrs  iirc  now  riiinllv 


lisin.il 

,,.('11,  lli.il    <d  licrwisr  wo 


iild   111-  \cilt'(|   IVoni    lis.      (  )iir  lints  iirc  siid,  oiir 


.ici's  iilniosl  liiislii'd  !      Iliil  ;i Wii y,  !i w;iy,  tlioii  liciid  of   [)cs|»nirl     Tliif 

llir  cliildrcii  of   ||o|ic,  JMiiycr,  iind  Work 


III)  Ihhiii'  lor  \(iii 


W 


r  ;irr 


(ii'ij    1^    o 


iir    l'';il  licr.  ;iiid    lirilcr    liiiics   will    coiih'."      Tlirv  riiiiic   in    tli 


lii'MmnM'.'  I 


T    ,\l; 


\  onl\,  wlirii.  iiltrr  nini>  W('iir\'  monllis   IVoni    I 


ic   nine 


nl  Ills  lir>.|  hiiidiiiL;.  Iliili  loiiiid  liinisrH' ('nciiiiiix'd  on  Ijii'  Wnorr  Uivcr, 
,  ■•  wliii  li  lie  li;nl  lio|M'd  III  1)1'  srI  iisliorc  IVoni  tlir  wliiiliTs.  Tlic  liisl 
(i.i\s  111  Apiil  iiiitl  jiiil  his  |i;iriy  inlo  Inils.  mi  llic  ic"  oi  Ihc  livrr  in 
l,il.  (l.'»     I'.*'.       'I'llt'    lclll|H'r;il  llic    \\;is    slill    ;is    low     iiS     111"    Iit'loW    IVcc/.illJf 

|nUllt. 

!>iii  s,';diii^'  now  l»rL;;iii  lo  Iti-  siirri'ssriil.  N ii-kcr-ziioo  willi  one 
^irnkc  li;ir|iooiird  ;i  iiiotlicf  ;iiid  licr  |in|i;  lisc  iiioit  sciils  wcir  tlic  next 
jiri/f ;  ,iiid  ll;iM,  iiiiiid  llic  ron^Tiil  iiliit  ions  (d'  llic  unlives.  iii;idc  liis 
<<\\\\  lirsl  .'.iiiliiic.  lie  liiid  Iciiriicd  sonic  id"  llic  ininiil  si  r;ilii'_;ciiis.  iiimI 
wilii  llirir  lii'lp  |iiil  llicni  in  |>kiy.  (ioiii^-  mil  willi  \iid<ci-/,lioo  o,i  ins 
liiiiil.  lie  liiid  walclicd  for  sonic  limns  willi  liiin,  and  aflcrwards  on 
ninllicr  liiinl   willi  i'-l»ici'l»inir.      Nn-kcr-/.lioo*s  w  alck  was  a  niai'.i'd   one. 


\i  ;i  scal-liolc  llircc  miles  mil   iVmii  llic 


shore,  wlicrc  he  had   (|isco\ cicl 


1  M'al-liii 


Ic.   lie    liad    liiiill    lor    liis    iirolcclimi    from    llie    wind    a,   si 


inW- 


w.iH.  Ii\c  I'cel  in  diamclcr  and  live  I'eel  liieh  on  llic  nmili.  a  loot 
•ml  ii  liair  only  on  llic  south.  Inlo  this  hole  he  ran  a  whalelx  nc  lod, 
wliii  h.  hy  sliikin}^'  ice,  showed   thai   some   lime  had   passed   since  the 


'»• 


■  :  '•. 


I 

: 


•j;;<( 


.\MKI!IC.\N    KXI'l-ni{y\TI(>NS    IN    TIIK    ICK    ZONKS. 


Ill'     \\llN- 


!'■   hill 


seal   liiid  Itt'cM   (Iicrc;  (li'iiwin;^-   out    (lie   in«|  iind  snirlliiii;'  it. 
|kM(mI,  *'/(■/»/(/"  (sliiil\-l)ull  scul).      lU'lmiiiiin'  llir  rod  l(»  (lie  siin 
lidlr,   lie   ciiicrullv    sciiipcd    the   siinw    I'ntiii    iirniiiid    llic    rnd.  sn    ;is   i, 
leave  only  alxuil  six  inelies  Mhove  (lie  seid-liiilc.  and  llieii   di'cw  .mii  i!,, 
rod,  and    |>lared    the   end    nj"  tlie   w  (i(((l-|tarl    iA'  his  ",i-iiiir  *\\\i'<\\\  n\ 
the  ittd-hiile.      Ilnjdini;-  this  |tei|iendieidaily  with  tnic  hand,  he  ii-ii|  i 
other  in  paeiun!;'  snow  around  it  till  he  had  retnined  the   ten    iniln-- 


{■]■ 


snow    ovei'    the    seal-h< 


'!'•     Wlllrli 


111'  had  sei'a|ie(|  away.     Tin  i 


I  III)- 


leai-handle  was  lil'ted  in 


I   UVIll- 


l\,    \\liieli     lel't     an     i 


lirll-M|||;||, 


hole  ;    wliicii  was  to  he  lii>  nuii. 


an(i    finite    lor    Ins    liar|i(Mi; 
st  liUiiij;'   tiie  seal    as  simii   ,; 


I   III 


siio 


nid  hear  it.     lie  tliei 


I    I'illl    llic 


little     rod     down     throii^li    iln' 
doiiic  oi"   t  he  seal's  liollse  {  ni.  ,l^ 


It    niav  lie    eailiM 


I,  '/'//' 


'",     111]        11     |v 


reallv  a   siiiail    snow-liiil  ), 


tei'inint>    t  he    <le|it  li    of   1 1 


ir    ^liM\\ 


o\('r   It 


ir   it    was  oil   ilii^  hi- 


were  to  rest  while  w 


llrlilli' 


!\|ieet  iliL^'  to  spend  llic  w 


nii'ht    in  silence 


he  t 


I  ITU     i|(i\\  II 


a  pieee  ol"  l'iirre(l  deerskin  Im 
a  eiisliioii.  pre\('iit  iiiii'  ;iUii  llir 
s!i<j'filest    noise    iVoni    lii>    !ihi\r- 


KHIKUlUNci  ,101;)  UOINli  Ol   I'  SllAL-lUMi: 


iiieiiis:    t 


o    Kee 


Ins    led    w.iriii 


and   elose  to^'etluM'.  he  drew  on  a  short  Iiai;'  of  reindeer  skin.  Iiir  in^iiir, 


and  tied  Ins  le^'s  (ot;'et liei',  and  wrappeil  Ins  iroek-tail  elose  aroiiinl  jnn 
His  t)()-)i(ir.  \vitli  liarpoon  and   line,  wort'  placed  on  two  jieos  a 


llllc 


advanee.  so  that  whon  beiidini;'  loiwai'd  lie  eonid  touch  his  speai.  Willi 
these  (iiiiet  prejiarations  he  bade  Hall  u'ood-ni^ht.  sayinn"  tjiat  hy  lii-  hav- 
ino-  the  ./-//"o  (lie  seal  would  think  no  one  was  left  Itehind.  His  pivniii- 
tioiis  were  not  useless,  for  he  had  failed  in  a  previous  wateh  just  wlu'ii 


.\ri'i;nA«ll    OK   HCMMKi: 


■l:\\ 


;,| I    III   shikr    liis    |iri/,r,   the   wiiiy   .sciil    being   iViglitciKMl    oil   1»\    the 

lull  I'l'  :i   iiiillcii   IVoiii    Ills  liclr. 

()i)  j''J»i('rl»iiig's  wiiliji,  lie  liiid  ciil  duwii  into  tlic  snow  to  siilisl'y 
hiiiiM'H  ))V  irpciilcd  snicliings  tliiit  llic  scjil  liiiij  itccn  t  licrr,  :imiI  tlicn 
lie  M  lajicii  iiwiiy  llir  (Milsiilr  snow  down  to  tlic  lliin  icv  rrust,  tlic  hcuTs 
Idciii  hiiiu-liolc.  Making  tlifu  ;i  cfnlrid  downward  cnl,  and  i'(!nioviiig 
iVdiii  ii  a  siililarv  liaii'  IVoin  liis  ontcr  IVocIs,  lest  IIk;  seal  slioidd  "■Hnicli 
liiiii  (jiiick,"'  lio  set  u|i  over  I  lie  liolc  a  snow-Mock,  ol"  wliicli  ultont  I  lirci! 
iiicliis  was  above  tlic  snow,  for  a  mark  for  liis  liai|)ooii,  and  passed 
till'  walcli  ol'  ii  whole  nigiit,-  not  an  niiiisiial  length  of  wailing.  I'oi'  at 
(iiiKS  lie  had  passefl  IVoni  Iwenly-rotir  to  roity-eight  hours  on  siudi 
weary    work. 

Halls  watch  was,  jia|i|iily  for  him,  thai-  <d'  an  hour  only,  lie  siie- 
(•(•(■(liil  in  making  a  telling  blow  with  the  s|iear,  and  in  holding  on  lo 
his  line  until  the  seal,  on  e(miiiig  iip  to  blow,  was  des|iatehe(|  by  Nii- 
k('i-zlioo*s  long  knil'e.  Mall  was  the  lirst  white  man  who  had  caught  a 
seal  ill  I  hat  ciuint  ry. 

The  iii'st  lisli  cauglit^  by  a  new  hand,  'Ik!  tirsi  oik;  of  the  season 
cauglit  by  wali'liing  over  an  ice-hole,  and  the  liist  caught  in  open 
walcr,  are  limes  of  joyiuis  demonst  rat  ions,  in  which  usually  all  share 
except  those  who  have  been  arilicled  by  death  in  their  lamilies  during 
the  year.  IWdore  the  middle  (d"  May  as  many  as  ten  were  taken  in  one 
(lav,  and  almost,  "iitii'cly  devoiireil  as  last-  as  brought  in.  ( )!'  the  (|ual- 
ily  and  elTects  of  the  meat  Hall  remarks,  that  to  lixc  upon  it  alone  is 
fxi-essi vely  constipating  on  the  white  man,  old  walrus-meat  a.Hecling 
the  system  much  in  the  same  way.  'I'oo-koo-liloo  thought  thai  tli(! 
icasiiii  the  Innuits  ol"  that  I'ciiion  were  so  dark-colored  was  t  heir  eat  in'*' 
so  iiiiicli  raw  seal-meat  and  lilood.  It  seems,  iiide(M|.  surprising  that 
llicy  can  so  readily  make;  way  with  such  huge  (|uaiitities  of  animals, 
weighing  each    two   hundred  pounds  and    upwards. 

The  lirst  live  davs  of  June  were  in  mai'ked  contrast  with  the  spring 
tiioiiths.  The  rapid  advance  (d'the  warm  seas(iii  had  re(|iiii'(:d  a  change 
t'loiii  the  snow-huts  to  the  tuplloi  (skin-tonts),  which  were  set  up  on  an 
island  along  tlie   shore  of  the   Wager.     Tlu;   (k'serted   Kununongs,  or 


'    \ 

1  ! 

r 

'" 

; 

:; 

i; 

■ : ', 

,'■ 

1  ' 

' 

Ii 


J 


M 


m 


:   i 


!  '(  I 


lit 


I 


4> '-{>.) 


AMKKICAN    KXl'L()KATIO>;S    IN    THE    ICE   ZONES. 


luilf-siiow-lioiises,  luid  become  uiiteiuintable  In  llie  siiow-drippinns,  a,,,! 
the  reiiiiiiiis,  when  broken  ilown,  presented  a  strong-  fontrasL  n,  tin 
beantilul  arelied  and  sulid  domes  spoken  ol'  b_v  Hall  in  the  i)irvi(,ii.> 
iiulunm.* 


'11 


le  su 


mniev  ;.i;;!iths  <>i"  I8i)5  were  spiMit  by  the  natives  ii 


>  seciiiin 


the  game  lor  their  s  d)sistenee  (hiring  the  coining  winter,  the  sue 
eessfnl  hnnts  ol"  Jidy  alone  footing  np  twelve  seals,  nine  <i<>/i-,/,„./,s 
thirt 


y-s(\('n  deer,  a  bear,  and  some  diieks.     ('om[)elled   to  await 


l'\C|| 


through  another  winter  his  chainres  of  moving  westward  toward  Kino 
William  Land,  Hall's  ehief  oecnpation  was  limited  to  sneh  obsciMi- 
tions  for  the  coast-lines  of  the  Hay  as  his  instruments  permitted  liim 
ti)  make.  lie;  had  further  opportunities  of  witiusssing  the  mitivc  wavs 
of  making  use  ol"  the  seal,  the  walrus,  and  the  deer  for  food,  and  in 
the  manufacture  of  useful  things.  For  making  lines  from  the  skin  of 
the  (i',/{-i/i)n/r  I'oi-  uses  in  the  hunt,  the  Innuits  cut  the  skin  into  l()ii(4' 
strij)s.  which  they  sti'ctclied  between  the  rocks  by  a  block  and  tackle 
which  lliey  obtained  fmni  the  whalers:  these  strips,  made  soft  ami 
pliable   by    nd)bing   and    chewing,   were    verv'  strong'    for    sled 


ii'e   trac- 


ings ami    laslunL;s  and 


lor  seeming  a    walrus. 


'/)( 


To  sa\('  the  blubber  of  the  seals  for  de[)osit  for  winter  use  in  a 
7/'%  the  natives  stored  it  in  seal-skin  ifnii/x  (bags)  made  from  the 
skin  of  the  animal,  unbroken  eNce|)t  by  a  small  opening  about  ihc 
head.  To  get  the  blubber  out,  the  knife  was  thrust  in  longitu.!ii 
to  separate  it  from  t  he  skin,  the  fore-llipper  was  jointed,  and  tli 
then  Worked  out  bv  the  hole  made  at  the  head. 


lallv, 


e  seal 


icr 


When  making  the  deposits  of  the  reindeer,  the  custom  is  to  pi 
upon  and  around  *he  carcass  the  hea(k  legs.  shoiildiTS  and  saddle,  c 
ering  the  whole  with  a  heavy  ])ile  of  stones.      When  this  is  done,  as  is 


(IV- 


ii: 


(aiiliiin    [.yon.  in   liis  .loiinial  of   I'.iii-y's  Scfond   ^'o\•a^l'.    tsiil- 


;iivs  of  ;i  lik 


SCiMHV 


I    liail    several    t 


line 


in    my  I'amhles   tliroimli    the  world,  seen   huts  wli 


imagined  eoidd  not  \w  p(|nalled   in  wi'eteliedness  of  a])pearance:  hut   I  was  yet  to  hiun 
that    of  all   miserahlft  places   on   earth,    a    snow   village,    feeently  disserted,    is    tiie   inosi 


U'loomv. 


'i'iie  roofs  nndted   into  icicles  and   coated   with   smoke;  arches  hrokcn  .iml 


fallini:  from  decay:  tlio  snow  scats,  floors,  and  partitions  covered  with  every  kind  ni  lihli 
and  ruhhish — bones,  liroken  utensils,  and  scraps  of  skins — form  allouoth(M'  the  aie^l 
deph)rah]e  picture,  while  the  uema'al  air  of  misery  is  auiiniented  tenfold  by  the  stmiii,' 
i^laro  of  liuht  which  shoots  tlirouL;h  a  hole  once  occupied  hy  a  window. "' 


A    WHALE   CAU(JMT. 


.)•>•> 


Mill! 


,1.  in  the  hiliT  pari  of  tlu'  season,  tlic  whole  mass  sonii  beconi'-s  .so 
1  with  ice,  that  it  can  lie  o})ene(l  only  with  oreat  force,  the  natives 


usni'4  lo 


r  this  |)ur|)ose  heavy  wed^e-shaped  atones. 


'riie  first  opportunity  now  ol'I'ered  itself  for  the  successful  issue  of 
one  (if  the  important  elements  in  the  oi'ig'inal  plan  jiresented  to  tho 
liitiiils    of    the    exjiedition    in    New    Vork    in    \^&1  —  the    capture    of 


CAl'Tri;lN(i  A  WUALK 


\\  ii 


lies,  wliicii  Would  repay  in  jiart  the  advances  made  for  the  outlit. 
M'icr  a  nund)er  of  cruises  in  the  hoats  witlutut  heini;'  ahlc  to  conic 
i|i;iii'  within  strikiufj;  distance.  Au^'iist  -W.  Hall  was  couo-vatnlalcd  hy 
;i!l  liis  Innuit  friends  for  the  success  of  tho  day.  With  his  party  of 
ii!cu  and  hoys  he  left  the  tupiks  at  four  A.M.  to  liuid  a  whale  which  had 
lufii  for  some  time  previous  hlowini;'  around.  His  hoats,  the  "'Sylvia" 
ami  the  "  I^ady  Franklin."  sjfave  swift  chase  to  the  westward,  hut  after 
a:i  imur's  cruise,  during'  which  ihe  whale  made  several  rising's,  they 
Were  uuahle  to  t>,"et  close  eiiou^n'h.  altlioUi^h   ihey  came  almost  upon  it 


i.H 


m 


! 


If 


fit  ft' 


'J;>4  AMi-l!I('AN    KXI'LOKATIONS    IN    TIIF,    HK    /(»M;s. 

\\\wi\  rowint;'  iVoiii  an  (»|i|Mtsite  diivi'lion  iirouiid  an  islet.  A  scimhi] 
wliiik'  was,  liowovor,  almost  iimiicdiatt'lv  scni  liall"  a  mile  to  the  m.ii|||. 
west,  wluMi  tlu!  sails  were  (jiiii'Uly  set,  and  [)ad(lli's  and  oars  vig.n.Mi^U 
plied  l»_v  tlir  crews  of  both  boats,  "each  of  wliicli  ran  down  tlie  Ir-  di 
a   \',  the   whale  at   its   joininj;'  point."     ()u-e-la,   IVom   the   how    ol   ili,. 


Ladv    Franklin,"   which   reai'hed    tl 


Svlvia,""  threw   a    w  hal 


ie  ji'oal   a   few    seconds   het'oii 
del 


es   iiarpooii,  to   winch  was   attaciicd   a    hiir  n|' 


twenty   fathoms,  having  at  it  >  end  two  drngs  (floats).     One  of  il 
was  (he  forward  part  of  an  (Kik-i/nnk  skin,  the  covering  of  the  head 


icsc 


.1111 


flippers  being  as  i-iil  ire  as  w  hen  n[)on  the  living  animal,  with  the  e\i  rp- 
ii<»n  cf  the  transverse  scam  ;  the  other  was  the  entire  skin  of  a  urli- 
/'.     Moth  were  lilleil  with   air,  ccunpressc  I  by  the  stont   lungs  of  im 


/ni 


1 


n:.u\l 


'! 


ill  ir  doubU'  objcc't  w  as 


to  indicate  wheit'  the  whale 


wa- 


:mii| 


to    tire    It    do.vii. 


w 


lien   ()u->'-la's   ir<iii   struck    into    the   back    of  i 


whale,  it  ga\e  one  slap  of  its  tlukes,  and  went  bi'low  the  wh'te.  sccili- 
ing  waters,  at  first  disaitpoinling  Hall,  who  thought  it  was  now  losi  : 
hv  had  furnished  ()u-e-l..  on  setting  out  with  a  lull  length  of  line,  and 


was  not  aoquaintoil  with  this  Innuii  use  of  floats.  Hut  while  ilic 
boats  lay  to.  watching  for  a  reai)i)eariMU'e,  the  drugs  were  seen  tin  oiii 
ill  the  bay  flying  over  the  waters,  tl  ough  vvitli  decreasing  speed,  nnd 
<!;■  the  whale's  eoniing  wp  again  to  bix>w.  it    received  a  harpoon   fiom 


lew 


iiiil 


^*'ud<er-7.hoo,  at  the  bow  of  the  "Sylvia.""  and  ()u-e-la"s  iron  ( 
The  whale  again  turned  flukes  for  soundings,  taking  out  with  liiui 
of  the  "Sylvia's"  whale-line:  it  then  immediately  si  ruck  sr.iwuril. 
dragging  the  boat  through  the  water  with  great  speed,  but  on  it^  c lin- 
ing up  and  blowing,  Ou-e-la  lanced  it  from  the  "Lady  Franklin."  Il 
died  within  one  hour  from  the  first  attack. 

The  aiu'hor  was  drojtped  from  the  "Sylvia."  the  corner;-  d  ilic 
whale's  flukes  were  cut  td'f,  its  mouth  tied  n[),  and  ilu'  tins  taken,  (mc 
iuto  each  boat.  The  towing  of  the  animal  to  ii  floe  was  made  villi 
slow  progress  against  head  tide,  but  at  one  r.M.  the  prize  w;is  taken 
into  a  small  core  near  the  tiip-kf-.  Hall  had  breakfasted  on  raw  nml,- 
txik  as  soon  as  the  wluile  was  killed.  The  Tnnnits,  Hiongli  equally  fond 
of  the  skin,  could  not  join  him,  because  they  had  already  eaten  took-ta  ■: 
in  obedience  to  a  like  superstitiouo  idea,  ti.i'ee  days  uiust  elapse  after 


ir.MJ-  AT  in;.  UAK  s  I'oirr. 


2^r, 


llic  ciii)!!!!!'  of  ii  wlialc  hd'orc  iiiiy  work  (imhl  he  dniic.  On  the  tliiv 
Idllowiiii;',  tlic  c'iirciiss  wiis  cut  up  iiiid  cdr/wil  amid  scenes  of  feasting-; 
lit'ieen  hundred  pounds  of  the  Ixme,  (h'sit;-ne(|  hy  Hall  I'd'  tlif  Itenetit 
(if  his  expedition,  weic  securely  depositeij,  to  l»e  a\ailiil)le  on  the 
iiiiirn   of  the   whalers   to   the   hay  in    the   following'   fall. 


\viNTi:i:  (,)rAi;rHi!s  at  i;aks  vnur  iioi'K  (isii.-.-dC). 

On  the  4tli  of  Se))tend)er  Hall  made  his  twenty-sixth  encampment 
en  the  banks  of  North  Pole  liiver,  near  tin;  Fort  Hops;  of  l)i'.  U  le. 
This  was  to  he  his  wintei  (piarters,  in  which  in;  was  to  pre[)iire  for  his 
sledge  jouriH'y  next  season  to  the  west. 

From  tliis  point  also  he  would  make  a  survey  of  the  bay,  his  obser- 
vations of  the  coast-line  already  made  having'  satisfied  him  that  an  im- 
provement  of  the  (diarts  could  be  maih;   for  the  whalers.     Steadfast  in 
:|ie    purpose   to   siu'ceed    in    tlu;   several   objects   of  his  voyat4'e,  lit;   had 
declined  to  aece[»t  offers   from  the  ulialers  for  a  [)assage   home.      When 
lie  now  set  up  this  iipl/c  tlii'  <;'lor'es  of  a  Ix'autiful  sunset  were  chann'ini;' 
'he  Arctic  lines  of  the  landscape   into  trojtical  warm   (n)lorin_!^,  and  till- 
ing tnc  grayish  cool  atmosjdiere  with  an  unusual  brilliancy.      His  plans 
for  the  next  year  involved  the  securing  the  continued  friendship  of  the 
lunuits  and  tlu;  sttu'ing  of  jirovisions  for  the  long  sledge  journey  as 
well  as  for  tlm  winter  supply.     The  larger  part  of  the  tribe  scattered 
themselves  at  points   some  distance   off,   exchanging   visits   with   him 
dming  the  following  closed  season.      His  two  close  com[)anions,  -loe 
and  Too-koo-litoo  (Hainudi),  remained  in  his  igloo. 

Kxcc[)ting  occasionally  a  few  salmon  or  jx'ihaps  a  dozen  ]»artiidges 
no  |)rovisiou  \vas  available  during  the  severe  winter  months  but    the 
(leer-moat.      To  visit  the  deposits  was  then  a  matter  of  freipu-ney,  and 
often  a  work  of  seveie  ex])osure  and  labor;  nor,  beca  ise  of  the  scar(nty 
of  fuel,  was  it  often  ])racticable  to  liave  much  cooking  done. 

A  very  largo  number  of  deer  had  been  deposited  ;  —  in  Soptember  as 
hiauy  as  ninety-three,  in  the  latter  part  of  which  month  Hall  estrnated 
that  as  many  as  a  thonsand  passed  in  one  'hay;  in  November  iifty  more 
were  cached;  and  a  few  were  seen  as  late  as  January  '21.     They  did 


!!l» 


[i 

I 


il' 


I 


!  .  }■  11. 


J 

i 

1 

1  i  ■ 

;   j  j 

ii 

1 

i 

:i:{<; 


AMi:i;iC.\N    1;.\1'L<»|;a  llnNS    IN    THK    UK   ZoNKS. 


lint  iiifiiiii  apjiear  until  the  end  nl'  .Miircli.  \\  hen  tin-  diics  tlint  ucvc  wiih 
yoiiii;^-  lii'gaii  ilu'ii-  nii^ratidn. 

Hall's  sjiair  ill  tlic  fXixisiirrs,  labors,  and  plivat inns  td'  tlif  sciiMin 
was  a^ain  ot'  a  scncicIv  living  cliaractiT.  ( )n  <nic  \i>it  to  his  lavoiiii- 
4l('(M'-])ass.  wlicrc  lie  liad  l)ccn  acciislonicd  to  watdi  l>chind  astom'\\;il|. 
lie  t'lidcavoicd  willi  Joe  to  ciirlic  lixc  that  thc\  Imd  killed  the  day  pre- 
vious, and   within    tin.'   weary  hours  ol'  jiiliiiL;   ii|i  oNcr   thciii   rork  and 


>toni'    was   oMTtakcn 


i\     a    tierce 


storm   oi   sliar|i,   eultini;.    oliiidi 
snow  on  the  winiis  (d'  the  <'ale. 


Ill' 


(•n(Ui!.'h.  he  said,  to  make  on 


('    e\- 


eia 


ini.  '•  None  hut  devils  should 


doomed  to  siicli  a  |iiiiiislnneiii.'' 
I'aiteiiiig  the  hut  on  their  retiiin 
each  seemed  to  the  other  and  to 
'l"oo-koo-litoo  a  pillar  of  sik'W, 
until  i'or  a  loii^'  time  they  hml 
]ioiinded  and  threshed  their  natixe 
dresses.  ( )n  another  \isit  he  had 
the    mistorluiie  to    liiid    tliat    a   de- 


|iosil  made  six  i'eet  ahoxc  the  ri 


l\  IT 


leve 


had  'heeii  swcjit  hy  a  six-dav: 


^ale  and  stiu'iii.     The  main  su| 


T'y 


food 


must,   lioweNcr.   be    iii'ii 


lloW- 


'I'ou-Koo-l.irod  illANNAUi 


th(>se  deposits.  ,\t  time 
ever.his  store-liouse  was  well  (illed, 
and  a  season  u\'  i'eastinn'  ensued: 
and  as  ol't?n.  tliroiu'li  a   failure  in 


was 


i-eeoxciinn'  the  deposits,  or  tlirou^'h   the  eajii'lee  (d'  tlie  Iniiuits,  hi' 
jilaeed  on  shoi't  rations.     His  .loiirnal  (d' January  lil  tells  the  following 
"  I  arise  usually  between  seven  and  ei'4'lit  in  the  morning',  and  alter  si 


noK- 


\i\'j;  a  little,  cut 


lew  eliips  Iroiii  wliatcNcr 


little  choice  l)loel<  of  venison 
I  mav  hapiieii  to  have,  and  eat  llie  same  raw  and  hard  frozen.  As  eat- 
ing- \enisoii  alone  is  dry  work  unless  one  lias  foad-non,  T  eat  seal  bluh- 
l)ei-.  which  is  idd.  id'  strong  color,  and  »d"  strong  old  checse-tasto.     Al)out 


l"ii| 


l.i.-l 


HALLS    1(MH>. 


:l:;7 


Iniir  ciiiift  s  (if  vciiisdii  iiiid  iiiic  (Hiiicc  ot'  l)liiltl)('i'  iiiiikc  my  lut'iik- 
(■;isi.  Iliul  1  i.liiiiHlaiicc  of  tlic  t'liriiicr.  1  slitnild  cat  nearer  Inui- 
,„,iiii(ls   lliaii    I'l'iir    iiiiiK'c.s,    i'(»i'   it    must  he    ii'iiu'iultcifd   that    it    takes 


Alt-Too-A    DUuWNKI)    IN    Ills   KIA. 

a  t-Toat  <Ieivl  of  tlie  veiiisoii  of  this  (uiiuti'V  to  sujiply  one's  apjic- 
lite  and  necessities  in  the  winter.  Tn  the  neiglil»orlioo(l  ol'  unon 
(really  there  is  no  pavtienlur  time  of  one's  takin.LC  Ins  meals  when  liviiiL;' 
as  till'  Iniuiits  do)  I  dine  on  what  would  be  called  old.  stinkinu'.  nause- 
atiiiji;  whale-skiu  ;  but  to  a  hi)i(/ri/  «"?//  eiwr//  /n'ttcr  f/iiii;/  is  .sv/vr/.  and  I. 
indeed,  find  it  so.     Some  of  the  effects  of  eatin.t;-  the  lirst  few  times  of 


. 


5  ' 


M 


fii 


,!  h:! 


r  i 


i' 


■! 


I  i 


'2:\H 


AMKinCAN    KXl'LOUATIONS    IN'   TIIK   ICK   ZON'KS. 


this  muktuk  (wlialc-skin;  arc  wvs  s('V(3ie  gn|»iii«;-  pimis  in  tlu^  sfoni.u  h 
and  l)()welH,  followed  hy  copious  diarrlncu.  Nearly  every  Iimiiit,  ljii  ;,t 
and  small,  in  the  village,  as  uell  as  myself,  has  siilleied  thus  hv  eat  hi-' 
this  whale-skin.  There  were  seven  i)atients  on  my  hands  one  (hiv  hisi 
week  sutTeringwith  the  above-named  complaint.  For  my  lunch, or  supper. 
I  pick  out  the  fatty  substance  of  a  wlmle-fm,  and  eat  with  it  a  little 
more  of  my  took-too  meat,  about  the  same  amount  as  for  my  breakfast, 
topping  off  with  delicate  slices  of  raw  whale-beef  or  whale-skin,  ami 
go  to  bed  hungry,  but  as  soon  as  I  am  asleep  I  dream  of  friends  and 


INNUIT  HKAD-ORNAMENT. 

better  times  coming.  ...  I  frequently  feast  on  tallow  candles,  whieli 
word  I  use  as  a  figure  for  pure  deer-tallow  (tood-tioo'),  of  which  I  made 
excellent  dip  candles,  and  not  having  use  for  them  have  eaten  them 
with  good  relish." 

The  work  of  preparing  deerskins  for  clothing  chiefly  occupied  him, 
with  the  assistance  of  Toe,  the  wife  being  disabled  by  Innuit  custom 
from  working  on  this,  as  she  was  a  young  mother.  Hall  dressed  him- 
self entirely  in  furs;  Joe  could  make  for  himself  with  the  needle  good 
mittens  and  boots. 

On  a  visit  to  the  village  of  Noiv-yarn  he  learned  the  death  of  Av- 
too-a,  who,  contrary  to  custom,  had  gone  out  alone  in  his  kia.  His 
boat  and  implements  had  been  found,  but  not  the  body.  It  was  thought 
that  while  spearing  one  of  a  band  of  deer  crossing  the  lake,  his  boat  had 
been  struck  by  the  horns  of  the  animal. 


AruoiiAs. 


•2:il) 


( »ii  tlic  rohirii  of  Now  Yt'av's  day  a  l)all  was  lii'M  in  his  i^Mno, 
wliriv  the  moil,  wearinjjf  masks  of  reiiidtHT  skin,  kept  up  tlioir  (hinct-s 
.,i,,|  the  ])erf()rmunri's  of  the  keif-loiv-tik  to  a  hitr  hour.  Wrestling' 
;,ii(l  otlu'V  gymnastic  oxercisus,  sucli  as  tight-ropo  dancing,  were 
vii A   tVcMiuent  in  tiie  vilhigc.     The  women  at  such  times  were  gayly 

He   s))ont  several   days   in 
the  l)usy  work  of  surveying 
Now-yarii  liarbor  and  its  vi- 
cinity, making  also  the  sketch 
cufl     vj  N  "c?    \  ot  which    the  cut  below  is  a 

fae-simile. 

A  clift"  on  the  border  of  a 


\ 


~i 


•-'ttlltuet 


NOW  YAUX   UAUnOll  AND   VICINITY. 


X.^ 


(^  neighboring    inlet    much  interested  him    by   the 

Iniiuit  tradition  with  which  it  was  connected.  Ou-e-la's  story  was 
tliat  years  before,  two  little  girls,  while  playing  about  this  cliff  with 
infants  in  hoods  on  their  backs,  had  gone  into  an  opening  between  the 
rooks,  which  closed  upon  them  before  escape  was  possible.  All  attempts 
at  rescue  were  unsuccessful,  and  the  poor  children,  to  whom  for  a  time 
bread  and  water  were  passed,  perished  in  the  cliff. 

AURORAS. 

Auroras  -vere  frequent  during  the  months  of  November,  February, 
1111(1  March.  More  than  once  on  witnessing  them  Hall  found  the  ques- 
tion arising:  "Why  is  it  that  the  aurora  is  almost  always  seen  in  the 
Southern  heavens?  Why  do  we  not  see  the  same  north  of  us?  I  have 
iSLH-n  the  aurora  at  Wager  Bay,  at  Noo-wook,  at  Depot  Island,  and  from 


1 1 


,  i,  V. 


it 


i-l^ 


*  ii 


;  i 


''■■? 


1  r 


i:  ■  1' 


ril 


,1^ 


240 


AMElilCAN    EXrhOIJATIONS    IN    THE    KK   Z(>NES. 


viiiiuus  pluces  about  IJepiilse  liay,  aiid  almost  uniformly  the  [)lieuoiiii  hmh 
is  seen  southerly  of  tlie  point  wherever  I  happened  to  be.  The  ^auw 
was  true  in  my  previous  voyage  (1800-62)  —  that  the  aurora  was  seen 
soutli.  in  this  (•(•nneetion  1  would  state  that  from  all  I  iiave  been  ;il)l(. 
to  learn  in  the  many  elose  observations  I  have  nuide  durin;^-  theii  dis- 
plays, the  aurora  is  generally  not  I'ar  distant,  —  oft-times. within  u  \vw 
hundred  I'eet,  —  and  continues  witliin  a  stone's  throw  of  one's  head.  Ii 
an  army  of  men  were  elose  together  in  line,  and  extended  from  lure  ii, 
Voik  Factor}',  I  am  sure  each  man  would  see  the  auroral  disphi\s  all 
south  of  him;  and  yet  the  most  distant  disphiys  would  not  exceed  icn 
or  iifteen  miles,  while  the  most  of  the  auroras  would  be  within  a  hall'  tu 
three  miles  of  him." 

[Between  the  parallel  of  lifty  degrees  north  and  that  of  sixty-two 
degrees  nortli,  aur(»ras  during  the  winter  are  seen  ahnost  every  ni^hi. 
They  ajipear  nigh  in  the  heavens,  and  as  often  to  the  south  as  to  the 
nortli.  In  regions  further  north  they  are  seldom  seen  exce])t  iu  i!n' 
south.  —  Prof.  K  JjOOMIs'  "Treatise  on  Meteorology,""  p.  187.] 

November  7,  the  rays  of  an  aurora  shot  horizontally  to  the  ciot- 
ward,  in  the  direction  of  tJie  magnetic  meiidian  ;  and  at  7  P.M.  of  the 
loth  a  third  auroral  veil  covered  tiie  sky,  lasting  twenty  minutes. 

Februaiy  •!,  the  passageway  of  IlalTs  igloo  was  Hooded  with  the 
light  of  an  auiora.  ( )n  going  out  he  saw  a  long  belt  extending  far  casi- 
southeast,  anti'.  fai-  west-norlhwest,  the  centre  of  it  a  trille  south,  hut 
apparently  within  a  ])istol-shot.  ''The  rays  were  all  vertical  and  daiu- 
ing  right  nieri-ily.  'I'his  whole  belt  was  remarkably  low  th)wn, —  that 
is,  apparently  not  more  than  tifty  or  seventy-iive  feet  from  the  earth.  — 
and  ahtng  the  base  of  it,  from  en'd  to  end.  was  a  continuous  stream  nf 
prismatic  lires,  which,  with  the  golden  rays  of  light  jetting  upward  ami 
racing  backward  and  forward  —  some  dancing  merrily  one  way,  uliiK' 
others  did  the  same  from  the  opposite  direction  —  made  one  of  the  u\f>[ 
gorgeous,  soul-ins])iring  displays  I  ever  witnessed.  The  Innuits,  neaiiv 
the  whole  of  whom  witnessed  the  grand  sight,  kept  up,  as  they  al\va\ s 
d(»  on  such  occasions,  their  charming  music  —  that  is.  whistling.  Tlic 
display  lasted  but  a  few  minutes."  The  following  night  something  nf  a 
like  display   was  witnessed  ;   a  single  streak  of  aurora  shot  up  fn m 


1 

^^M, 

1 

^8 

^&^ 

-i^ 

^SJafcSi.'l 

Mi 

^B 

^^^ 

>*"  •■      -i 

Z.--'. 

AUUOUAS. 


•241 


the  SI  mill,  and  in  a  few  moments  the  whole  horizoii  was  alivo  with  the 
(lancing  fires  of  the  north. 

On  the   19th  there  was  a  display  of  aurora  upon  wliich  the  wind 
had  nil  apparent  effect,  althouc^h  a  gale  was  blowing.     On  the  10th  of 


AUKOUA  SKETCHKD  15V  HALL. 

Mairli,  a  wondrous  display  stretched  across  the  southern  horizon  from 
oast-southeast  to  west-southwest.  '^  The  eastern  half  was  in  the  i'orui  of 
an  ni(  li,  with  vertical  rays,  while  the  western  half  was  convolved  in 
such  vast  glowing  circles  that  nearly  a  (juarter  of  the  heavens  seemed 
on  liiv.     The  eastern   half  consisted  of  bosses  or  birch   broom-heads, 


'i'Mili 

1 

'  ' 

"u- 

'  ]' 

i 

■'5 

i 

1 

::M| 

1 

1; 

1 

i 

i  ■  ''. 

i 

'  .  \ 

-li 

'  ';! 

1 

:  ill 

'  1 H 

" }.  11 

■i ' 

1 

J 

i 


V 


:'( 


m 


■'MV\ 


r     ''^ 


'*»!' 


1,^    I         ' 
ill         - 

rl  ! 
if' 

ill  A 


242 


AMERICAN  EXPLORATIONS  IN   THE  ICE  ZONES. 


SKETCH  OF 

PONDS  BAY 

By  tliB  Tnnuii  Papa 
Drfcvmln  Jan.  1869 


THE  NOS.  ON  PAPA'S  CHART  REFER  TO  INNUIT  NAMES  OP  LOCAL  POINTS 

KNOWN  TO  THEM. 


springing  into  life  and  dancing  merrily  to  and  fro  along  the  vortex 
of  the  highest  rays  forming  the  arch.  To  each  broom-head  Mas  a 
complete  nucleus,  well-defined,  about  which  the  rays,  inclined  iibuut 


CHART  DRAWN  BY  AN  ESKIMO. 


243 


forty-five  degrees  to  the  east,  played  most  fantastically.  One  was  quite 
alone  in  its  glory,  for  not  only  had  it  the  embellishments  of  its  sister 
broom-heads,  but  golden  hair  radiated  from  its  head  in  all  directions." 

The  journals  of  November  have  interesting  notes  also  of  refraction 
and  parhelia.  At  10  h.  12  min.  41  sec.  mean  time  of  Fort  Hope  the 
sun's  lower  limb  was  a  half  degree  above  the  sea  horizon ;  Southampton 
Island  by  refraction  loomed  up  from  ten  to  thirty  minutes  of  arc  above 
it,  although  at  no  other  time  visible  from  Hall's  place  of  observation, 
opposite  liae's  Beacon  Hill.  Cape  Frigid,  forty-seven  geo^^raphical 
miles  distant,  was  visible,  and  the  coast-lines  yet  further  south,  while 
a  zone  of  about  five  degrees  in  width  from  the  horizon  upward  was 
of  resplendent  colors  extending  around  the  heavens,  the  half  circle 
opposite  the  sun  being  th.3  more  brilliant.  At  svinset  che  phenom- 
enon renewed  itself.  A  mock  sun  on  the  30th  deceived  the  untutored 
natives. 

During  the  last  of  the  winter  of  1865  and  the  beginning  of  the 
spring  following,  estrangements  from  the  good  feeling  which  had  ex- 
isted between  the  white  man  and  the  natives  showed  themselves  to 
a  degree  producing  disquiet  and  even  some  apprehension  of  personal 
danger.  But  Hall  succeeded  in  preserving  his  own  equanimity  and  his 
control  over  the  restless  spirits  of  Ou-e-la,  Ar-mou,  and  their  people. 
His  chief  dependence  for  fcecuring  this  was  his  known  connection  with 
the  whalers,  whose  return  was  now  again  to  be  expected  in  the  bay,  and, 
next  to  this,  his  frequent  supplies  of  tobacco.  Happily  the  estrange- 
ments were  not  serious.  Both  these  chiefs  had  committed  themselves 
and  their  people  to  the  promise  of  assistance  on  his  never-forgotten 
journey  toward  King  William  Land,  and  he  was  dependent  on  this 
promise. 

Ar-niou  made  lor  him  a  complete  cliart  of  the  coasts  he  had  visited, 
embracing  a  line  from  Pond's  Bay  to  Fort  Churoliill,  a  distance  of  9Gt> 
nautical  miles  —  a  map  rendering  valuable  aid  to  the  explorer.* 

*  In  the  "Fortnightly  Review"  for  September,  1880,  Mr.  Francis  Dalton,  F.R.S.,  in 
an  article  under  the  heading  of  "  INFental  Imagery,"  says:  "  The  Eskimos  are  geographer? 
by  in^^'lnct,  and  appear  to  see  vast  tracts  of  country  mapped  o'.i,  in  tlieir  lieads."  From 
tlie  multitude  of  illustrations  of  their  map-drawing  powers,  I  will  select  one  from  those 


(:i- 


u 


I'l. 'i  "S 


1  '  I 


I  i 


jj 


;     1 


244 


AMERICAN    EXPLOllATIONS    IN    THE   ICE   ZONES. 


FIRST   ADVANCE   TOWARDS   KING   WILLIAM   LAND. 


Hall's  occupations  at  Fort  Hope  had  been  the  preparing  the  neces- 
sary })rovisions  and  stores  for  this  lirst  westward  advance.  IMurcli  :](i. 
18GG,  his  native  friends  Ar-mou, See-gar,  Ar-goo-moo-too-lik,  and  On-c-Ki 
gave  proof  of  renewed  friendship  by  the  loan  of  their  dogs;  Ihis  wms 
the  more  pleasing,  as  during  the  winter  he  had  almost  despiiired  df 
securing  a  team,  his  own  stock  consisting  of  "but  two  female  duos 
equal  to  one  good  dog,  and  two  puppies  equal  to  a  quarter  of  u  good 
dog."  The  price  at  which  one  had  been  held  was  not  lower  than  a 
double-barrelled  gun. 

Ebierbing,  Ar-mou,  and  Nu-ker-zlioo,  with  their  families,  and  the 
young  native  She-nuk-shoo,  made  up  his  party ;  all  the  others  liad 
gone  oif  from  the  encampment.  The  start  was  made  Avitli  tlic  wind 
fresh  from  the  North-northwest  and  the  temperature  00°  below  tiost 
point,  and  the  gale  became  very  severe,  beating  fiercely  and  direct Iv 
in  the  face  of  one  who  was  poorly  i)repared  to  bear  it  from  his  hav- 
ing eaten  little  or  no  food  for  several  daj's.  Li  writing  of  this,  he 
says  there  had  been  before  him  an  al)undance  of  such  as  he  would  liiivc 
relished,  if  he  could  relish  anything;  but  he  had  been  so  busy  in  writ- 
ing and  so  enwrapped  in  anxieties  that  he  had  little  or  no  aitpctitc 


|!,  1       i  -J  1 


H 


includoil  in  tlio  Joiu'iials  of  Captain  Hall  at  page  224,  v.liich  wore  piihlishod  last  yo-dv  by 
the  IT.  S.  Goveniment  under  the  eilitorship  of  Prof.  J.  E.  Xourse.  It  is  the  fao-siniilr  uf 
a  chart  drawn  hy  an  Eskimo  wlio  was  a  tliorough  barbarian  in  tlie  accepted  sense  of  lli.; 
word;  tliat  is  to  say,  he  spoke  no  language  except  his  own  inicoiith  tongue.  Ih'  \v;i< 
wholly  nncducated  according  to  onr  modern  idcis,  and  he  lived  in  what  we  should  call  a 
strange  fashion.  This  man  drew  from  memory  a  chart  of  the  region  over  which  he  liad 
at  one  time  or  another  gone  in  a  canoe.  It  extended  from  Pond's  Bay,  in  hit.  T->\  to  Von 
Churchill,  in  lat,  .58'^  44,  over  a  distance  in  a  straight  line  of  more  than  OiJO  to  \.hM 
English  miles,  the  coast  being  so  indented  by  arms  of  the  sea  that  its  length  is  six  liiiir^ 
as  great.  On  the  eoin]>aring  this  chart  (rougu  Eskimo  outline)  with  the  Admiralty  cliari 
of  1870.  their  accordance  is  remarkable.  I  have  seen  many  route-maps  made  by  travclliis 
in  past  years,  wlien  the  scientific  exploration  of  the  world  was  much  less  advanced  than 
it  is  now,  and  I  can  confidently  say  that  1  have  never  known  of  any  traveller,  wliitc,  luiiwii, 
or  black,  civilizeil  or  uncivilized,  in  ^Vfrica,  Asia,  or  Australii,  who,  being  iuipni\iilril 
with  instruments,  and  trusting  to  his  memory  alone,  has  produced  a  chart  comparMblc  in 
extent  and  accuracy  to  tliis  barbarous  Eskimo.  Their  powers  of  accurate  dnnvin.'  are 
abundantly  testified  by  the  numerous  illustrations  in  Kink's  work,  all  of  which  were  iiuulo 
by  self-taught  men,  and  are  thoroughly  reliable." 


AN-K(H)T1NCJ. 


246 


"The  l;ibnr  of  the  writing  wbicli  1  have  done,  without  speaking  of 
aiiviliiiig  else,  has  been  enough  to  kill  many  a  man  and  has  nearly 
killf'l  nic." 

His  route  was  up  the  North  Pole  River,  north  50°  east.  To  slielter 
hiiiiself  from  the  sharp  wind,  he  held  his  head  at  times  low  down 
behind  the  load  on  the  sled. 

Oil  tiie  way  a  new  souree  of  delay  was  caused  by  the  continued 
ilhiess  of  Too-koo-litoo's  babe,  for  whose  relief  her  Innuit  friends  re- 
ciMimiended  and  practised  different  forms  of  an-kooting.  On  the  4th, 
tlie  aii-ge-ko  put  a  leather  stra[)  around  Ebierbing's  head  while  lying  on 
tlic  la'il;  and  when  he  occasionally  pulled  on  this  strap  the  head  came 
ii[),  (;i'  it  remained  firmly  down,  though  the  lifts  were  hard ;  the  raising 
(if  the  head  or  its  remaining  steady,  indicated  the  different  replies  to 
the  ([uestions  asked  as  to  the  future  of  the  babe.  On  the  7th,  the 
liabe's  hciilth  not  having  improved,  Nu-ker-zhoo  as  "a  newly-llcdged 
aii-yc-ko"  entered  on  his  work  by  pulling  the  strap  around  the  iiead  of 
one  (if  the  women,  and  while  propounding  many  questions  to  the  Sjiirit, 
brought  up  her  head  when  only  an  affirmative  was  made.  For  the  third 
o]ieration,  on  the  8th,  Nu-ker-zhoo  brought  into  the  igloo  a  stone  weigh- 
iiit,'  ten  pounds,  to  which  he  made  fast  a  string  of  ook-gook  skin  which 
lu;  held  in  both  hands,  the  hand  nearest  the  stone  being  used  as  a  kind 
of  fulcrum  as  well  as  for  lifting  power.  Holding  on  to  the  string  he 
])cgim  to  woo  or  call  the  Spirit,  by  repeatedly  calling  out  '•'  Attee, 
Attee;  "  lifting  or  pretending  to  lift  on  the  stone  to  determine  Avhether 
the  Spirit  answered.  In  two  or  three  minutes  it  becamo  immovable  by 
the  Spirit,  as  they  believed,  pulling  hard  down;  and  this  was  a  sign  that 
any  questions  would  be  answered.  Some  of  the  questions  were: 
Should  the  child  take  anj'-  more  of  Hall's  medicines?  or  had  Too-koo- 
litoo  conformed  to  her  people's  customs?  Would  the  child  live?  An- 
swers to  the  two  first  of  these  were  always  negative  ;  to  the  third  it  was 
iu  substance  that,  if  the  mother  would  give  up  the  use  of  the  bread  and 
tea,  or  stay  with  Ou-e-la's  people  the  child  might  live,  but  if  the  parents 
weut  forward  one  of  the  three  would  surely  die.  Such  answers  on  either 
siile  were  indicated  by  the  difficulty  in  lifting  the  stone :  if  the  answer 
was  no,  it  had  its  natural  Aveight  only ;  if  yes,  it  was  hard  to  raise  it 


f'tf 


':\ 


!-     : 


If;- 


H 


i    i 


hi 

it 


h  f 


i 

i    i 

-L.Ai 

J'  1 

246 


AMEUICAN   EXPLOllATIONS   IN  THE   ICE  ZONES. 


the  least  bit.  Hall  could  not  undeceive  the  parents  about  this  liftiiicr 
though  the  an-ge-ko's  work  was  readily  seen  through,  and  on  tiie  l-nh 
Too-koo-litoo  in  her  anxiety  took  her  full  share  in  another  an-koot-incr 
and  tlien  in  despair  agreed  to  a  decree  to  give  away  the  babe  and  tlms 
save  its  life  ;  but,  on  Hall's  remonstrance,  the  child  was  restcjroil  to 
the  mother. 

On  the  13th,  the  long-expected  death  of  the  child  took  place.  The 
almost  distracted  mother,  the  moment  she  found  it  was  really  dead, 
rushed  out  of  the  igloo,  pressing  the  dead  baby  to  her  bosom  and  pniu'- 
ing  out  her  soul's  grief.  Her  leaving  the  igloo  so  quickly  was  in 
accordance  with  Innuit  custom ;  for  if  this  is  not  done  when  any  one 
dies  in  it,  everything  becomes  worthless ;  in  this  case  it  was  considered 
that  the  mother  went  out  soon  enough,  so  that  the  bedding  and  evt  rv- 
thing  else  need  not  be  thrown  away.  In  ten  minutes  she  returned  and 
took  her  seat  on  the  bed  platform,  grieving  for  a  very  long  time  as  a 
loving  mother  only  grieves,  but  at  length  was  persuaded  by  Mam-niark 
to  let  the  dead  baby  be  taken  from  her  bosom  and  wraj)ped  in  a  small 
furred  took-too  skin.  Mam-mark  insisted  that,  according  to  the  custom 
of  iier  people,  the  remains  must  be  buried  at  once ;  but,  on  Hall's  re- 
monstrating and  ui'ging  that  they  should  be  kept  till  at  least  the  next 
day,  a  comi)romise  Avas  made,  and  the  child  that  died  at  twenty -live 
nunutes  past  1  P.  M.  was  buried  at  C.30.  It  was  wrapped  in  a  blanket 
of  took-too  skin  of  long  fur,  tied  with  thongs,  and  having  a  looj)  in 
it  to  go  over  the  neck  of  the  motl.sr,  who  must  carry  the  corijse. 
A  hole  having  been  cut  through  the  wall  of  the  igloo  for  the  pro- 
cession of  four  persons  in  single  file.  Hall,  Mam-mark,  the  mother 
with  the  babe  suspended  from  her  neck,  and  the  father  f(dlowini; 
close,  proceeded  to  the  place  of  burial  on  a  little  hill,  which  Hall  had 
selected. 

Delays  from  other  sources  increased,  the  Innuits  sometimes  pleading 
that  they  must  turn  aside  for  a  musk-ox  hunt,  and  then  rest  the  whole 
of  the  day  following.  The  average  travel  was  scarcely  more  than  IVdiii 
tAvo  to  three  miles  per  day,  the  pfirty  nearing  Cape  Weynton  on  the 
south  side  of  Colville  Bay  at  the  close  of  the  twenty-eighth  day;  —  a 
journey  made  by  Dr.  Rae  in  '54,  without  a  dog-team,  in  five  days. 


NATIVES   WHO   HAD   SEEN   FRANKLIN. 


STRANGE  NATIVES  MET. 


24T 


A  new  era  in  the  history  of  the  journey  now  opened.  Ascending  a 
bei""  uhove  a  floe  to  prospect  the  route  across  the  bay,  Hall  and  his 
two  natives  caught  sight  of  four  strange  Innuits,  who  appeared  to  be 
sealing  some  three  miles  off.  This  was  exciting  to  each,  yet  it  was 
noccssury  to  be  friendly  as  well  as  cautious,  for  some  more  news  of  the 
Franklin  party  might  possibly  be  obtained  from  the  strangers,  and  Hall 
w.is  ever  on  the  look-out  for  this. 
He  (luickly  sent  back  for  the  rest 
of  liis  ])arty,  who  hastened  to  him  ; 
bill  Nu-ker-zhoo  felt  sure  that  he 
was  looking  out  on  old  friends. 
(idiiig  forward,  therefore.  Hall  ar- 
rived at  sunset  near  the  strangers, 
aii<l  encamped  tlv.re  for  the  night ; 
at  dawn  of  day,  his  new  igloo  was 
tilled  with  new  faces,  and  a  story  of 
interest  was  unfolded. 

Kok-lee-arng-nun,  their  chief, 
showed  two  spoons  which,  he  said, 
had  been  given  to  him  by  Aglooka ; 
on  one  were  the  letters  F.  R.  M.  C. 
The  wife  had  a  silver  watchcase. 
T()()-ko()-litO()  learned  also  from 
the  men  that  their  people  had  been,  at  one  time,  alongside  of  "the 
ships,"  and  had  seen  the  great  Eshemutta  (Franklin).  "This  Eshe- 
niutta  was  an  old  man  with  broad  shoulders,  gray  hair,  full  face, 
and.  bald  head.  He  was  always  wearing  something  over  his  eyes,'" — ■ 
"spectacles,"  as  Too-koo-litoo  described  them.  "  He  was  quite  lame  and 
sick  when  they  last  saw  him.  He  was  always  very  kind,  wanted  them 
to  eat  constantly,  very  cheerful  and  laughing;  everybody  liked  him, 
Innuits  and  all  on  the  ship  ;  the}'  on  the  ship  would  always  do  what  he 
said.  The  ship  was  crushed  l)y  the  ice.  While  it  was  sinking,  the 
men  worked  for  their  lives,  but  before  they  could  get  much  out  from 


FiiANKLIN  RELICS 


\    'i'\ 


iJN 


: 


r 


t'l 


]i 


I  i 

r, 


! 

!  i 


iJ 


!l|&]   M 


W    i'l' 


iww 


i   I 


248 


AMKUICAX   p:Xl'L(mATIONS   IN   THE    UK   ZONKS. 


tliL'  vessel,  slio  saiilc.  For  this  reason  Acjlooka  (Crozier)  died  of  star- 
vation, I'of  lie  eould  not  get  provisions  to  cany  with  him  on  his  Imid 
journey." 

The  PcUy  Bay  men  further  said  that  they  had  for  n  lono-  lim,. 
feaied  to  go  aboai'd  the  other  ship,  but  on  seeing  one  man  ulivc  on  it. 
some  of  them  had  gone  and  runnnaged  everywhere,  tahing  out  \\|„it 
they  wanted  for  themselves j  and  that  afterwards  two  boats  had  Ihim 
t'dund  with  dead  men  in  them. 

ITall  obtained  fioni  these  men  ;i 
immbor  of  relics,  of  which  the  cuis 
are  specimens.  JJut  with  the  ex- 
ception of  the  news  received,  and 
of  its  good  indications  of  wliat 
could  be  obtained  of  grciiter 
worth  when  a  visit  should  lie 
made  to  the  region  where  those 
things  had  happened,  there  wiis 
little  advantage  to  be  derived  from 
this  meeting,  or  indeed  from  tlie 
journey  Avhich  had  now  ended. 

The  new-comers  did  not  apjioar 
willing  to  be  friends  ;  they  eiiga<>'- 
cd  in  the  old  an-kooting  business 
with  zest,  spending  their  time  and 
that  of  Hall's  party  in  it ;  and 
they  made  the  party  dissatislicd 
with  the  idea  of  advancing  any 
further  that  season,  frightening  them  from  so  doing.  Nu-ker-zhoo 
said  he  was  not  afraid  to  go  on,  but  the  rest,  at  last,  showed  evident 
signs  of  fear,  and  it  would  have  been  useless  to  attempt  an  advance. 
Hall  most  unwillingly  agreed  to  return,  and  began  to  see  that  a  journey 
as  far  AvestAvard  as  he  contemplated  Avas  not  by  any  means  promisini;, 
if  he  Avas  to  depend  on  the  Tnnuits  alone.  He  resolved,  therefore,  tn 
attempt  it  Avith  the  aid  of  a  party  of  Avhite  men,  Avhom  he  hoped  lie 
could  secure  from  the  Avhalers  in  the  spring  of  the  next  season.     Stui- 


I'lt.VXKLlX  RKLICS. 

The  llsli-liciiil  crest  idenlifies  tlieiii  us  Kraiiklin's. 


-i 


h!-af 


AUUIVAL   OF    WIIALKItS. 


249 


in"'  ii  goodly  quiuitity  of  provisions  lor  such  ii  journey,  he  loft  ("ape 
Wcyntou  with  a  sacklenetl  heavt,  and  on  the  23d  of  May  was  sale  again 
at  his  old  caniping-ground  of  Eeacon  Hill. 

!)I•:L^^vs  AT   KEruLsi':   ijay,  and   mii)-winti:ii   sledge 
jori  ,EV.  —  isou-07. 

Two  full  years  had  nov;  passed  since  tlie  sailing  from  New  London. 
Tilt'  liist  huK^'ng  at  a  mistaken  point  of  the  country  had  cost  a  year's 
(Iflav,  and  the  failure  to  obtajn  trustworthy  native  hel].  had  now 
tiu'ird  Kail  back  from  his  hoped-for  advance  to  King  William  Land. 
The  lirst  j)age  of  his  note-book,  for  March  31,  18G1,  had  upon  it  in  bold 
writing:  "Now  for  King  William  Land!  up  at  four  v.M.,  and  get- 
ting ready  for  a  start";  but  the  notes  of  May  25,  1806.  "ei'  "To-day 
iiiv  King  William  party  is  ended  for  the  present  —  di  >^o'h....'il  hut  not 
ilisi-ititi'd'/cd." 

Yet  he  had  the  full  consciousness  that  at  least  nine  uionlhs  nuist  bo 
passed  before  he  eoidd  again  set  his  face  toward  'i-^  west,  and  that 
he  could  neither  trust  the  Innuits  for  an  advance,  nor  be  sure  of  secur- 
ing suilicient  provisions  and  dog-teams  for  so  long  a  journey.  He  had 
reason  to  desire  to  meet  again  the  Pelly  Bay  men,  for  Sce-pimu-cr  had 
visited  King  William  Land  and  had  told  of  a  Cairn,  seen  there  by  him, 
which  had  been  built  by  the  Kod-hMuu  ;  he  h'd  also  spoken  of  having 
tnimd  papers  within  it,  which  being  good  for  nothing  to  Innuits,  liad 
heen  given  to  children  or  thrown  away  ;  he  had  spent  one  night  near 
this  pile,  wrapping  himself  in  blankets  taken  off  some  banked-up  cloth- 
ing of  white  men ;  a  skeleton  being  found  near  the  pile.  Hall  almost 
persuaded  himself  t)  at  within  that  pile  the  Records  must  be  found. 

But  for  any  asTstance  toward  that  next  journey,  he  must  wait  for 
tlio  coming  in  of  some  of  the  whaling  fleet  of  the  season.  After  an 
occupancy  of  two  months  in  boat  journeys  for  completing  the  survey 
of  the  bay,  and  after  another  long  sufferance  of  the  continued  low  cus- 
toms of  the  'latives,  he  was  gratified  by  the  arrival  of  the  "Pioneer," 
from  New  London,  and  answered  Captain  Morgan's  salutation  in  tears ; 
the  sight  once  more  of  a  friend  from  the  midst  of  home  friends,  was  an 
overmatch  for  all  the  roughness  which  had  been  forced  upon  his  nature 


iliHlti 


IJHIjH 
lilllMI 


\\M 


Hi 


I        '  SI 


Mjil 


u.. 


,; ). 


iiEl 


sN 


Ml 


.J!^ 


250 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE  ICE  ZONES. 


by  the  ignorant  and  degraded.  Several  other  vessels  soon  came  in ; 
the  "  Black  P2agle  "  bringing  him  letters  from  Mr.  Grinnell,  and  fnnii 
Messrs.  Harper,  his  publishers,  a  copy  of  the  "Arctic  Researches,""  the 
proof  corrections  of  which  he  had  returned  from  St.  John's.  Mr.  Giin- 
nell  sent  him  a  letter  from  Lady  Franklin,  in  which  she  had  exjjrcssrd 
the  deepest  sympathy  in  his  work. 

He  was  now  successful  in  securing  a  second  whale,  the  lenglli  of 
which  was  sixty  feet,  and  its  blubber  sufficient  to  yield  sixty  barrels 
of  oil.  By  September,  with  native  heli),  he  had  placed  on  board  the 
"Ansel  Gibbs"  about  one  thousand  five  hundred  pounds  of  boni',  to 
be  sold  on  the  return  of  the  ship  to  the  United  States. 

But  the  whalers  were  not  to  return  that  season,  the  meagre  results 
of  their  cruises  forcing  them  to  await  the  chances  of  a  second  y(;ar. 
From  their  crews,  however,  he  soon  had  volunteers  as  substitutes  tor 
the  natives,  and  he  had  hopes  of  obtaining  a  sufficient  number  of  doos. 
With  the  two  Eskimo  friends,  he  again  set  up  his  tupik  on  Beacon  Hill, 
Dr.  Rae's  tenting-place  of  1847,  and  entered  with  zest  into  the  hunt  foi' 
provisioning  the  coming  winter,  and  in  October,  within  his  igloo,  settled 
himself  down  to  his  plans  and  hopes. 

Yet  before  the  first  month  of  the  New  Year  closed,  he  learned  from 
the  cai)tains  of  the  four  vessels,  that  they  would  not  permit  the  Iniiuits 
to  supply  him  with  a  single  dog  for  the  coming  journey.  They  were 
feeding  this  people  through  the  winter,  and  they  would  need  all  their 
dogs  for  sledding  blubber  and  bone,  at  the  opening  season,  from  tlie 
water  to  the  ships.  Helpless  to  enforce  his  claim,  Hall  determined, 
therefore,  to  make  a  sledge-trip  to  Amitoke,  or,  perhaps,  to  Ig-loo-lik, 
even  in  the  depth  of  winter  to  buy  his  dogs.  The  journey  might  bo 
one  of  more  than  three  hundred  miles,  but  another  vear  could  not  be 
lost. 


JOURNEY  TO  IG-LOO-LIK. 


February  7,  1867,  in  the  judgment  of  the  best  Arctic  authorities 
"two  months  before  any  sledge  journey  should  be  attempted  unless 
to  save  life,"  he  set  out  for  Ig-loo-lik  with  Ou-e-la,  his  wife,  a  boy, 
and  a  half-breed  babe,  as  his  only  companions. 


HALL   BUY8    HIS   DUOS. 


251 


noNK-CllAU.MS  OK   l(i-Lu()-t,IK. 


Tlie  usual  delays  were  experienced.  Oii-e-la  stopped  to  visit  llio 
(fiavt:  of  his  brother,  und  as  at  this  stopj)age  some  of  the  do<,'s  \v»;re 
missing,  a  return  to  the  shi^js  became  necessary  ;  on  the  renewal  of  the 
idiitc,  the  l)abe  began  to  be  both  an  annoyance  and  the  cause  of  re- 
peated iialts,  and  the  dog-lines  at  one  time  be(!am(^  cntanghid,  causing 
them  to  be  detached  from  the  peto^  —  tlie  line  of  walrus-skin  fastening 
tlit'ir  trac(!S  to  the  sled- 
niimers,  its  ends  being 
IkiiiikI    together    by   a 

tdH'n'U'. 

After  the  severe  ex- 
j)('iieii(H>  of  further 
(Ichivs  in  gale-l)ound 
it-ioos,  and  of  extreme 
sciireity  of  food  chali  ig 
(■veil  Ou-e-la's  spirit  I  > 
iiii^t  r,  the  sledge-i)arty 

ill  rived  at  Ig-loo-lik  on  the  night  of  the  20th;  and,  by  securing  the  good- 
will of  the  people  by  presents  of  needles,  beads,  and  other  articles.  Hall 
"haltered  for  fourteen  dogs,  in  as  many  minutes,  setting  his  own  price 
oil  each."  His  articles  of  barter  were,  knives,  tiles,  and  even  pieces  of 
old  hoop -iron, 
and  wood;  but 
he  as  readily 
made  this  pur- 
chase as  Mc- 
Cliutock  had  in 

1859,  when  he  bought  a  reindeer-coat  for  a  knife,  and  a  snow-house  for 
four  needles.  For  food  to  supply  liis  return  journey.  Hall  gave  some 
hoop-iron,  an  old  meat-can,  and  a  stick  of  wood,  receiving  several  thou- 
sand ])ounds  of  walrus-hide.  The  Ig-loo-lik  people,  glad  to  see  a  Kod- 
lii-i:a.  made  him  presents,  the  best  of  which  was  a  warm  fur-eup.  Tlie 
"hone-charms"  were  held  in  high  esteem.  The  bone-handle  knife 
was  s})oken  of  as  having  been  used  to  scoop  out  the  brains  from  the 
skulls  of  some  Innuits  by  others,  who  had  murdered  tliem  to  save 
their  own  lives  when  perishing  on  the  ice. 


KNIFE  WHICH  HAD  BKKN  USED  IN  SKULL-SCUAPING. 


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or,  4) 


AMKUICAN    KXI'LOUATION.S    IN    TMK    ICK   ZONKS. 


Anxious  to  iL'tiini  to  the  buy,  that  lie  iniglit  l)t'giii  liis  wcstw.nd 
joiii'iiey,  lu!  was  jigaiii  duliiyod  by  tho  whiiiiH  of  Ou-e-lii,  but  ini[ii(i\|.il 
tlic  tiino  by  a  visit  to  tbo  spot  whero  Parry  bad  erected  Ids  lliiystift' 
(18^5),  and  hero  be  tound,  with  much  interest,  pieces  of  that  stall  uiih 
cU'ar  indications,  that,  had  the  season  j)eruntte(l,  lie  \vouhl  bav»;  I'miiid 
beh)W  ground  the  written  document  of  I'airy's  (h-posit.  The  tivncli 
made  in  dragging  the  ihigstaff  from  the  sea  to  where  it  was  raised 
scenuid  as  (Ustinct  as  wbtui  lirst  worn  by  it  into  th(!  linu'stonc  On 
the  day  of  tlie  »tart  homeward,  it  was  found  that  ()u-e-hi  had  \>u\  mi 
th(!  sh;d  besidu  li^\vife  a  widow  and  her  ehihl  and  all  her  trajis  :  slic 
was  left  behind  oii^tby  large  bribes  from  Hail.  After  further  un- 
comfortable ('X[)eriencoK  from  the  savage,  whom  he  felt  moic  tliiin 
once  like  shooting  on  the  spot,  —  es[)eeially  when  refused,  while  sick. 
suHicientfood,  while  Ou-e-hVs  family  were  feasting,  —  Hall  again  sighted 
the  ships.  His  journey  had  cost  him  fifty-two  more  days  of  preeinus 
time  ;  and  he  now  found  his  plans  again  utterly  arrested. 

Two  months  before,  when  be  had  his  men  seemingly  secure(K  the 
captains'  plea  had  been  that  they  could  not  spare  the  dogs.  lie  Imd 
now  returned  from  Ig-loo-lik  with  his  own  full  team;  but  the  whal- 
ing season  is  open  and  he  is  behind  time  ;  they  cannot  spare  a  man. 
He  could  punish  Ou-e-la,  as  he  now  did,  by  seizing  all  his  dogs  and 
holding  them  until  he  had  given  penitent  pledges  for  future  goijd  e( in- 
duct, but  it  is  not  surprising  that  for  a  number  of  days  he  hay  sick  and 
alnjost  hopeless  in  his  igloo.  He  was  able  to  punish  Ou-e-la  because 
of  the  presence  of  the  whalers  near  by.  He  seems  to  have  forg(jtten 
that  the  native  had  been  irritated  by  being  prevented  from  briugiiis;- 
home  a  second  wife.  Ou-e-la  afterward  rendered  Hail  mueli  good 
assistance. 

THE  JOURNEY   TO   CAPE   AVEYNTON. 

No  new  jom-ney  to  King  William  Land  I  But  if  this  could  not  be 
in  the  coming  season,  the  caclie  made  at  the  Cape,  the  year  previous, 
must  be  visited,  to  make  sure  of  the  safety  of  its  stores,  which  niiglit 
serve  for  the  year  following.  Hall  feared  that  the  Pelly  Bay  men 
would  carry  them  off.     By  the  assistance  of  three  of  the  whaling  crcv  s 


I 


TIIK  SKAKCH    AT    1(1-L<)<)-L1K. 


2r>3 


lie  -liiited  nortliwiinl  with  tlii'iii  tuid  his  own  two  Eskimos,  May  1,  and 
(U  itiiL'hiiig  his  cache,  (liscovcrt'd  that  all  had  been  uiiiMolested.  ("hang- 
ing ilh-  phifc  of  d{'i)osit  to  oii(>  s('t'inin«fly  safer  and  <»f  ready  access,  he 
■,[>r.i\\\  arrived  at  iJeacon  Hill  mi  the  seventeenth  of  the  month.  Ilis 
liii|ii  fill  conlidence  of  a  jonrncy  still  to  be  niad((  for  the  rec^ords  re- 
iiiiiiiicd  unshaken,  and  the  advance  <!aehe  would  be  a  necessity  f(U"  its 
siicctss.  No  connected  notes  are  to  bi;  found  of  his  occupations  ilurin«5 
the  siunnier  months  which  followed.  In  Se])tcmber  he  went  into  wint(U' 
(|iiiiit('rs  with  some  of  tlie  whalinjj^  (u-ews,  at  a  point  near  the  Heacon 
IJil!  Ill'  Dr.  Rao.     lie  would  endure  another  Arcti(;  winter  in  an  igloo. 


i! 


I!! 


?■■  I , 


\m 


THE   .lOrUNKV    TO   TIIK    STKAITS    OF    I  TltY    AXI>    IIIX'LA. 

Every  preparation  Keeniingly  needcul  was  nnule  for  the  King  William 
Fiiuid  journey  before  the  winter  of  1807-08  had  closed,  liut  Hall  now 
felt  himself  "called  to  search  first  for  the  traces  of  the  missing  navi- 
;4iit()rs  in  a  new  direction."  This  change  of  plan,  he  seems,  witli  reason 
to  have  afterward  regretted;  at  the  time  of  his  decision  to  make  it,  he 
thought  himself  suiliciently  advised  by  the  natives,  to  be  justified  in 
t lie  course.  The  sul)stance  of  the  news  Avhich  governed  his  msw  })lan 
was,  that  white  men  luid  been  seen  within  tlu;  ])revious  three  years  near 
Ig-loo-lik,  and  that  stone  i)iles  had  also  beiMi  found  and  tenting-placcis  at 
jioints  northward,  which  could  not  have  been  the  work  of  others  than 
K(id-lu-mis.  Too  promptly  crediting  these  Innuit  stories,  and  inferring 
fniin  them  that  some  of  Franklin's  men  must  have  been  in  that  region 
(»f  country,  possibly  to  seek  a  homeward  passage  theiu'c  to  England, 
ho  decided  to  explore  the  coasts  of  the  straits  named  above. 

March  23,  1808,  Avith  his  own  two  Eskimos,  one  Avliitc  man,  Lailor, 
and  the  native  Pa-pa-too-a,  lie  left  liis  encampment.  For  a  long  journey 
lie  had  but  a  mall  dog-team  and  a  heavy  load  of  i)rovisions  with  articles 
i'lir  presents  antl  barter.  l>v  a  veturu  of  disease  he  liad  lost  fifteen  dogs, 
hut  happily  succeeded  in  securing  from  the  Innuits  tive  of  tl.'o  eight 
uuly  that  remained  alive  about  the  bay.* 

*  Tlie  nature  of  tlin  Eskimo  dog  disoaso  was  closely  noted  in  t.<e  efperi'^nce  of  the 
Knrrlish  expedition  of  187").  The  following  is  taken  from  the  report  <  I'  FUnst  Surgeon 
15.  \innis.     (Parliamentary  paper.  C.  2170,  1S7S.) 

"Twenty-Hve  apparently  healthy  dogs  were  embarked  on  board  ship  in  the  middle  of 


li  f 


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•* 


254 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


May  20,  ISCO.    Sketdi  looUiuy  Soiilli  and  Kast 
THE  TEXTING-PLA(;E. 


At  the  end  of  the  second  week  he  was  nearing  Ig-loo-lik,  and  IVom 
further  stories  given  to  him  on  the  neighboring  islands,  lie  was  streiij.il,. 
eiied  in  the  belief  of  what  he  had  heard  about  the  white  men  bcincr 

seen  on  the  soutlicin 
shores  of  the  Strait.  !  le 
seems  to  have  really  ex- 
pected that  he  W(»ul(l 
soon  hnd  some  of  Frank- 
lin's men.  The  natives 
told  him  that  stranotis 
had  again  and  aoain 
been  seen  there,an(l  that 
gun  discharges  had  been 
heard  ;  the  clothing  df 
those  seen  was  described, 
—  the  caps  on  the  lioad 
separate  from  the  overcoat,  which  had  a  hood;  the  footprints  seen  had 
been  long  and  narrow  in  the  middle  with  deep  places  in  the  heel ;  and 
the  tread  of  the  steps  had  always  been  outward.  The  last  date  of  these 
stories  was  up  to  the  year  1864;  some  cf  Frank] in's  men  then,  Hall 
thought,  might  have  crossed  over  eastward  to  Parry's  old  region  in  the 

July,  18T.J.  Tliemimbcr  subsequently  increased  to  twenty-seven  by  the  addition  of  iwo 
young  ones.  We  were  given  to  understand  that  feeding  twice  a  week  was  amply  sufficient ; 
that  tlie  worst  possible  personal  treatment  was  too  good  for  them,  and  meat  in  any  sta-e 
of  decomposition  a  perfect  luxury  to  tlieir  fastidious  palates. 

Seven  and  twenty  animals,  confined  to  a  space  which  the  utmost  attention  was  scurccl y 
sufhcient  to  keep  habitable,  constantly  quarrelling  and  fighting  for  dear  life,  exposed  to 
sini,  dew,  snow,  and  wet  generally,  and  without  a  chance  of  a  run  ashore  — it  was  not  to 
be  wondered  at  that  they  began  to  show  signs  of  disease.  The  first  attacked  was  a  vouul; 
female  twenty-five  days  on  board ;  she  had  a  fit  and  died  in  thirteen  days.  Others  liecame 
attacked.  One  was  sunnnarily  shot;  one  I'an  a'vay,  and  was  seen  no  inore;  two  were  acci- 
dentally drowned;  seven  died  from  the  disease;  six  recovered;  one  died  mad. 

Of  the  -whole  number,  twelve  only  were  under  medical  treatment;  one  had  ral)ics  luid 
died,  one  recovered  so  far  as  to  have  two  litters  of  pups,  and  then  died  ten  months  at'tii' 
lier  first  fit  and  two  or  three  days  after  her  last  litter;  two  fell  into  the  water  when  in  Ills 
and  were  drowned;  two  died,  notwithstanding  every  thing  was  done  to  cure  them,  and  six 
recovered  and  Avere  landed  at  Disco.  .  .  .  The  treatment  fotuid  most  beneficial  was 
calomel,  followed  in  some  eases  by  croton  oil  and  solution  of  morphia,  tlie  best  of  waliT, 
and  good  food.  Thos^^  which  were  not  kicked  or  cuffed  behaved  as  socially  and  deco- 
rously as  if  l)rought  up  in  a  cottage." 


TENTING-PLACE  OF   WHITE  MEN. 


255 


JIUNU.MKXT   FOUND   BY   HALL, 
Lat.  C-i)^  47'  5"  X.,  Lon.  fiiT  15'  W. 


forlorn  lioije  of  reaching  a  ship  at 
Cumberland  Inlet  in  Avhich  they 
might  return  to  England. 

But  from  the  top  of  Cape  Ingle- 
field  not  a  sign  indicated  that  white 
men  had  been  there,  nor  could  the 
cache  of  which  so  much  had  been 
said  be  uncovered.  Lailor  and 
Ebierbing,  for  many  hours,  labored 
hard  in  cutting  down  with  their 
iron  snow  -  knives  into  the  spot 
pointed  out  by  the  native,  Koo-loo-a, 
as  its  site,  without  the  least  sign  of 
a  cairn.  A  discovery  of  some  in- 
terest was,  however,  made    in    the 


remains  of  a  tenting-place,  which  the  natives 
assured  him  must  have   been   built   by  white 
ine]i,  for  it  was  traced  by  four  stones  weighing 
eiK'h  from   twenty-five  to  thirty-five   pounds, 
w  hich  had  been  doubtless  used  to   hold  down 
the  tent-corners,  and  by  rows  of  smaller  stones 
ill  places  where  they  had  secured 
tlic   sides.      An   Innuit   tenting- 
place  close  by  had  its  stones  ar- 
vringed    in    the    native    circular 
form.      Both    Hannah    and   Joe 
believed     the     oblong     tent     to 


cP 


D 


Monuiiicii  t  al 
Inlit. 


8lll  Igloo. 
Muiiument. 


HALL'S  SKKTCn  OF  lim  COAST-LINE  XEAK  THE  MONIMKNT. 


mm 

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1 

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256 


AMEIUCAN    EXPLOUATIOXS    IN   THE    ICE   ZONES. 


hiive  been  the  white  man's  work,  and  Hall  left  the  spot,  con- 
vinced that  he  liad  found  a  mouument  and  tenting-place  made  hy 
white    men. 

SURVEY   OF   TFIE   NOItTHWEST   COAST    OF    MELVILLE   PENINSULA. 

From  astronomical  observatioiis  and  compass  bearings  he  deterniined 
the  coast-line  between  Cape  Inglelield,  the  most  western  point  ol'  ihe 
Strait  sighted  by  Parry,  and  Cape  Crozier,  the  most  nortiiern  reached  hv 
Kae  in  1847;  by  which  survey  he  may  be  justly  said  to  have  filled  up 
this  brol\(Mi  line  oi"  the  Admiralty  chart  for  the  northwestern  pail  df 
MelvilK;  Peninsula,  at  and  below  the  western  outlets  of  Fury  and  Ilecla 
Striiit.  This  was,  at  least,  a  liberal  comjjcnsation  for  the  disci])j)()iiit- 
ment  keenly  felt  on  leaving  the  spot  without  records  or  closer  tracies  of 
white  men.  On  the  18th  of  the  month  following  he  visited  Piurv's 
(lil'tbrd  river  for  tiie  objects  already  named,  but  discovered  nothing  nf 
interest  except  some  traces  of  occupancy  probably  by  Parry's  men. 
Returning  to  Ig-loo-lik  he  hastened  his  preparations  for  setting  uj)  his 
tent  again  on  the  bay,  which  he  reached  on  the  20th.  His  Astronom- 
ical Observations  made  at  this  season  are  included  with  those  made  ;it 
other  ]»oints  in  A])pendix  I.  of  the  "Second  Arctic  I'^xpedition,"  jtuh- 
lished  by  the  V.  S.  Senate  1879;  the  notes  introducing  that  appendi.K 
exhibit  the  character  and  C(»ndition  of  the  instruments  employed. 

The  journals  of  the  two  remaining  sunnuer  months  of  1808  are  filled 
with  the  accounts  of  salmon-fishing  and  deer-hunting,  the  unforiuiiato 
sliooting  of  one  of  Hall's  five  hired  men,  and  the  capture  of  anollier 
Avliale.  Py  the  use  of  an  excellent  net  which  he  luid  brought  from  hnnie. 
large  nund)ers  n£  tlii;  salmon  were  caught,  the  full  weight  of  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy-live  captured  on  one  day  exceeding  oiu'  thonsmid 
jiounds.  The  unhappy  nuiii,  Patrick  Coleman,  who  seems  to  have  ])liU'ed 
himself  as  the  leader  of  a  mutinous  party,  lingered  after  Hnll's  fatal  shot 
for  the  space  of  two  weeks,  during  which  time  every  effort  was  made  to 
save  his  life  by  careful  nursing;  the  other  four  hired  men  shipped  for 
home  on  the  lirst  two  whalers  that  came  into  the  bay. 

Still,  even  without  the  companionship  of  white  men.  Hall  deter- 
uiiued   to  pass  another  Arctic  winter  in  the  long-cherished  hope  of 


DISCOVERIES    IN    THE   NOUTHEAST. 


•2i>l 


reaching  King  William  Land.  By  tlu;  close  of  August  be  had  succeeded 
in  the  capture  of  another  whale,  the  ljlul)l)er  of  which  was  cached  for 
fuel  tlie  skin  for  food,  the  meat  for  the  dogs,  and  the  bones  for  renewed 
shi|iiiient  to  the  United  States.  Huring  ibe  month  of  Noveml)er  he  made 
;i  uiurney  to  Lyons  Ldet,  surveying  portions  of  it  ;  having  made  on  the 
t\v(i  journeys  of  the  year,  the  dis('(»veries  of  a  UvW  inlet,  bit.  07°  N.,  Ion. 
S4"  ;',()'  W.,  a  few  miles  north  of  Norman  Creek;  a  bay  on  the  west  side 
,,t'  Fox-  Channel,  lat.  G0°  N.,  Ion.  81°  30'  W.;  a  lake  twenty-live  miles  in 
l,.ii<,'ili,  lat.  08°  45'  N.,  b)n.  82°  W. ;  and  a  second  lake,  in  bit.  i;it°  35', 
iiftv  miles  in  length,  with  its  two 
iiuilrts:  the  lake  running  parallel 
with  Fury  and  Ilecla  Straits.  Also, 
two  islands  ;  one  ncjrtbwest  of  the 
west  end  of  that  strait  and  the 
(ither  at  its  east  end.  What  he 
considered  accom[)lished  of  the  most 
inHiortance  geographically  was  the 
cDiiipletioii  of  the  coast  around  the 
iidilh  side  of  Melville  Peninsuhi. 

The  winter  of  18G8-69  was  spent 
with  more  than  usual  comfort.  The 
natives  were  better  supplied  with 
^;L(ircd    provisions    and   bad    better 

success  in  the  hunt  during  the  intervals  of  '^])en  seasons.  IlalFs  inter- 
course was  not  again  broken  by  estrangements  on  their  [)art,  i>iit  he 
luid  much  to  bear  from  their  too  great  intimacy,  their  frequent  and 
lonif  protracted  visits  to  his  igloo,  which  was  at  times  filled  with  men, 
wdinen,  and  children  to  the  youngest,  all  jabbering,  crying,  liumming, 
lu'g^ing  and  stealing.  They  gave  him  some  compensation,  perhaps  full 
rei'oiu])ense — by  their  suitplies  of  the  walrus  and  seal.  His  visits  to 
tiieir  village  were  frec^uent.  lie  remai)ied  free  from  a  touch  of  scurvy 
as  indeed  he  was  throughout  all  of  the  three  expeditions,  of  nearly 
nine  years. 

By  March  21,  1869,  he  and  Ebierl)ing  had  dried  nearly  two  hundred 
pounds  of  venison,   made    up  new   furs   for   the   spring   journey  and 


iiAi.i/s  no.vT-no(i. 


d 


'ill ' 


llflj 


t ; 


i" 


*  1  ^  \  \ 

IT    If. 

*. 

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. 

'■ 

.  , 

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1 

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l:^     : 

i 

i 

'■1 

A   ini'i'iri'i/r  .roiiiNKV. 


2^)9 


„„,iiI'I('<I  II  I'lill  Hn|)|»Iy  of  iiiniiiniiilioii.  Tlicy  were  hyno  riHiiuis  uHHiufd 
1,1' ihf.  triciidly  (lispositioii  of  (lie  hilxi  itiiim:^  wlioiii  Micy  wcir  (o  hisiicIi 
(',,1  ilic  lost.  liHiurds  iiiid  Iciini  soniciliiii^  ••I"  (li<^  lost,  iiiivi^^iilitrs,  liut on 
llic  JJd  iii;id(!  .'Ill  iKlviiiicc  d('|)()Hil.  lor  tli(i  ik^w  jounify.  Hall  Wiis  riist:- 
Icss  iiiidcr  tlic  drliiy  cmisimI  hy  a  S(!V('rt'  <^id('. 


Tin;    SIM'OKSHKIJL   ,l(»ri!NKY    IlKCl'N    MAIICII 

l,ANI>    ItKACIIKI). 


IH(i!», — KIN«;     WIM.IAM 


dill' 


Now  for  Kiii^  VVilliiim  lyiiiid,"  was  iif^aiii  tli(!  nofo-book  iriHftripiion 
ic  (lay.     'I'lic  pitrly  <•!'  naiivcs  miiiiln'i'cd  (iv(^  iih-ii  and  live  fcinalcH ; 
an    infant   in    llic    linod.      Despite^   tln!   past.  cxpcricncM-s  of  Inniiit 
(Itlavs,  il.  was  ii(»\v  cidiri-  l)y  IIkmi'  help  or  no  adviincc  wliutcvcr. 

'I'lic  loads  of  tiio  sk^ds  wcic,  ol'  nccicssity,  li(ravy,  llic  <^n-oss  \v<'i^iif.  of 
(llic  licii)^  iH^arly  tAV'o  tltoiisand  (tij^lit  ImndrfMl  |)oiinds,  and  of  tin?  otlior 
\\\n  (lioiisiind  livt!  Imndrcd,  and  as  this  woidd  l)o  (!X(^liisiv(i  of  the 
\\(  i'^lil  of  any  of  tli((  J'lU'ty  who  would  ride,  tli(!  do;^fs  would  Ix;  closely 
incsscd.  'I'Ik!  I'uinxu'S  of  tlic  sUmIs  wv.vv.  shod  with  tin;  jawboiKi  of  tlas 
wlialc;  and   (ho   usual   ('Xp(!dients  of  iciii^  wluui  n(U!OSsary,  and  of  siih- 


•ilitiiiinj^  tho  luan-lic.lp  for  Ihci 


'Si 


\v(ao  (!Xj)(!oted  to  liavo  })lat:o  on  the 


route.     The  foot  ^'nr  liad  been  W(dl  ])rovid(!(l. 

On  tho  Hist  wIkmi  tlio  paity  iKiai'iMJ  C'ayic,  liady  i'clly,  iruisk-ox 
trucks  wvw  found  to  ]n:  nuiiiorous.  TIk!  hUmIs  needing  rc-ldwf.  tin- 
iiiixliir(!  was  niadt!  up  of  sn()W-wat(;r  and  ui'in(!,  fonnin;^"  a,  inoi'c  dnrahlc 
imd.     Th(!  caclM^  left:  in  ]H(!H  at  CajK!  VVcynton  w        fouml  iiiidis- 


('iiin|i(ii 


r(^-(l( 


posit 


(Ml 


ird.      Hut  thf 


tinl»c(|  ;  |)a,rt  of  the  stores  were;  usc(l,  tlw!  nniiaiiKhM- 
Inr  the  return  supply.  'Vhv.  journey  uow  was  we 
Iiiniiit  (h^lays  IVoni  this  inonuMit  ren(;we(l  tlieinscilvc 
iiidc  la/ily  on   (he   sle(ls,  one  was  asleep  in   midday.      liall  S(M!Iiic(|    ti 


Hjine  o 


f  tl 


ion 


ive  \V(inder(Ml  Ihat  noiu!  eared   for  his  search,  bui 


tl 


10  same   tun* 


111'    Wdll 


in  Ml  I 


l)illCK( 


inns; 


dered  that,  ili(!  ])arty  ma(l(!  what  advanco  they  did,  as  the,  sle(lfr(.s 
leiilly  sank  'lown   full   six  inches,  and  at  times  ^v{a■o   com|»let('ly 
(1.     The   route   was  with   difliculty  d(;tormined    by  any  obsei  ra- 
dopcndonfMi  was  (liei-efore   necessarily  laid   upon    native  experi- 


ence and  instincts.     At  one  of  the  "oncampments, 
recmd  its  location,  he  wrote:  — 


en  '((jsiniiu''  to 


I 


i'i 


2t:o 


AMERICAN    EXI'LOKATIONS    IX    THE    ICK   ZONKS. 


"It  is  no  woiuler  tlmt  my  dead  reckoning  may  be  faulty  with  Imt 
the  aid  of  a  small  compass  across  the  [)lains  of  an  unknown  ciuniiiv 
snow-clad;  thick  weather ;  much  of  the  tin)c  snowing ;  no  object  \\li;it- 
cvev  in  sight  to  aid  in  nudcing  straiglit  cours(>s ;  large  variation  of  (mu- 
pass ;  no  siglit  of  sun,  moon,  or  stars  by  which  to  determine  latitiidi  i,i- 


Sl.rTlNi;   OUT    I'OH  KINO  WILLIAM   LAND. 


variation  of  the  compass,  —  lean  determine  by  astronomical  obsoiva 
tions  only,  the  errors  which  are  possible." 

On  the  10th  of  April  the  dogs  scenting  new  igloos,  were  iminediatny 
inspirited  to  make  a  very  ra|)i(l  run.  They  overturned  sleds  and  travel- 
lers. The  native  guide.  Papa  Tewa,  became  evidently  alarmed,  but 
Hall  urged  the  party  forward.  Apprehensions  of  a  hostile  meeting  liad 
not  been  wanting,  and  Jerry  was  sent  cautiously  forward,  but  he  soon 
reappeared  Avith  a  signal  of  peace  from  the  newly  found  huts.  From 
one  of  them  an  old  man  and  his  wife  made  their  a])pearance,  aimed 
each  with  a  long  knife,  but  offering  a  welcome:  the  man  proved  to  bo  a 


11 


KIN(;    WllJ.lAM    LAND. 


2(11 


1)11  i  iK'V  of  the  old  cliief  wlioiii  Hall  had  met  two  3'ciirs  hcfore.  In  liis 
lull  wi  Tu  louiid  several  articles  which,  lie  said,  had  cDiue  out  ol'  a  ship 
^1111;,  (111  Kik->'-tt(/i\  Kiii^'  William  Lund.  lie  told  much  the  usual  slor\ 
of  iiie  ship  and  ol"  the  men  wlu)  had  perished. 

'I'lifse  people  were  miserably  wietelieil  in  tliiir  ixivert}'.  They  had 
|ii>!  nearly  iill  their  dog's  by  the  oi't  jirevalent  disease  which  destroys 
tlhin  ill  numbers,  and  had  no  I'oud  whateve)'  except  a  lew  seal  bones 
wiili  putrid  meat  upon  them,  uor  had  they  fuel  for  lire.  Hall's  com- 
jiiiiiv  i)arely  made  out  to  obtain  some  drinking  water  by  the  hel[)  of  a 
little  lire  shrub  (the  Amlromiula  fi'tiuKjoncC)  gathered  from  beneath  the 
.siiiiw.     Hall  fed  the  hungi}-  in  the  hut. 

lUu  from  some  news  eommu- 
iiiciiied  to  Hall's  party,  they  be- 
came yet  more  alarmed,  still  he 
persuaded  them  to  go  forward. 
On  I  lie  18th  of  the  mouth  they 
cncaiii[)ed  on  Simpsc^i's  Lake 
ill  lat.  t;8°  m'  '2-1"  N.,  h,n.  111° 
31/  W.,  where  a  musk-ox  was 
secured  and  a  full  supply  en 
joyed  by  all.  Hall  remarks 
that  the  greater  part  of  what 
was  killed  went  down  the  In- 
uuit  paunch;  "and  as  for  one  of  them,  Nu-ker-zhoo,  he  is  a  regular 
luig,  eating  more  than  any  two  others,  feeding  his  dog  on  the  choicest 
liieees,  and  having  no  shadow  of  regard  for  others." 

May  :5(),  more  igloos  were  seen  and  proofs  of  their  being  occupied; 
ountlier  .idvance  was  made,  further  prejjarations  being  taken  for  dc- 
t'ciici'.  Within  one  hundred  and  iifty  fathoms  of  the  huts,  two  of  the 
]iart\  Wert!  sent  forward,  knives  in  hand:  but  tlu>y  found  the  strangers 
willing  to  be  frit'iids.  'I'lu"  man,  of  whom  Hall  had  more  than  once 
lii'anl.  as  the  one  knowing  the  most  about  the  ships,  Li-nook-poo-zhee- 
juMk.  hastened  to  meet  him. 

The  lirst  (question  asked  was  " Nou-ti-ma  Aglooka?"  fwhere  is  Cro- 
zier  ■'  )  and  the  first  thing  shown  was  a  large  silver  spoon  with  an  eel's 


UALL'S   HK1,T  AXU  TAULiyr-COVKHS   FOK 
HIS  NOTKS. 


m\ 


r  ^'1 


262 


AMEIIICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE  ICE   ZONKS. 


head  crest — Franklin's.  An  cnciunpniunt  was  immediately  made,  the 
natives  cutting  out  their  snow-blocks  for  the  igloos  with  knives  w  liii], 
had  come  from  the  shi[)s.  The  hut  was. full  of  things  from  them,  ami 
Hall  readily  made  his  purchases.  The  old  man  sketched  for  him  tlu; 
hind  lie  was  to  visit,  directed  his  route,  and  fed  him  on  accounts  of  the 
Franklin  men.  Talcing  him  ujion  his  sled,  llall  went  forward  to  lind 
a  place  on  which  some  white  men  were  buried;  the  native  led  him  l,v 
a  straight  course  to  the  desired  spot  on  Todd's  Islands. 

On  one  of  tliese  islets  he  lixed  liim- 

self,  and  immediately  set  out  to  si anh 
for  the  graves,  finding,  however,  part 
only  of  a  Imnian  skeleton.  Crossinir 
the  second  day  to  the  mainhuul,  after 
hours  of  weary  labor  in  digging  down 
into  the  snow  covering,  his  attendauis 
found  one  entire  miburied  skeleton; 
over  this  a  pile  was  built  up,  but  ili(> 
gale  and  the  hardness  of  the  snow  do- 
barred  further  search,  nor  was  greater 
success  the  result  of  continued  search 
at  other  points.  During  his  stay  with 
the  natives  on  this  visit,  he  felt  satis- 
fied that  he  could  now  account  for 
probably  seventy-nine  of  the  one  hun- 
dred and  five  men  of  Crozier's  party  from  the  abandoned  ships.  They 
told  him  that  Ag-Ioo-ka  (Crozier)  had  come  along  near  their  tents,  his 
telescope  hung  about  his  neck,  and  his  men  dragging  two  boats;  he  had 
a  gun  in  his  hand,  but  on  seeing  him  lay  it  down,  the  Innuits  laid  down 
their  spears;  he  told  them  about  the  ice  destroying  their  ship,  and  of 
the  men  who  had  died,  and  said  that  he  was  going  to  IwilUk  (Rejailtie 
Ba}^),  making  motions  with  his  hands  in  that  direction.  They  also 
said  that  the  Innuits  had  left  them,  knowing  that  they  were  starved 
men. 

Hall  reproved  them  .sharply  for  deserting  Crozier.     It  would,  how- 
ever, seem  probable  that  they  did  so  under  the  fear  that  Crozier's  larger 


IVORiT  KNIVES. 


HxVLL8    UNWILLING   RETURN. 


268 


pai'tv  would  starve  them  out;  ami  hero  the  remark  seeuis  to  force 
itsi  11".  that  the  terrible  loss  of  Cro/.ier's  large  party  must  have  been  the 
icsiilt  of  the  t'ailun  to  secure,  bel'ore  the  shijjs  sauk,  enou<;h  of  eon- 
(IciiM'd  provisions  for  their  land  journey,  and  of  his  imt  having  native 
hcliicrs  as  part  of  liis  ei(!W,  on  whom  he  might  have  depended  as  later 


'2^J!^^h^M^'^^i 


FAC-SIMILE  OF  A  PAGK  OF  HALI/S  FIFTY-TWO  NOTE-BOOKS 
OF  THIS  JOUUNFV. 

explorers  have  always  done  for  guidance  and  for  success  in  the  hunts. 
This  success  might  have  been  lo(»ked  for  from  experienced  Innuits  at 
the  season  of  the  fatal  march,  the  middle  of  June. 


•  ) 


f  i 


RETURN    TO    THE   BAY. 


The  final  return  journey  was  now  begun.  All  the  natives  who  had 
yniie  Avith  Hall  were  anxious  to  be  safe  back  at  Repulse  liay,  Nu-ker- 
zhuu  declaring  that  unless  they  started  back  in  four  days,  the  ice  and 


fi. 


li^ 


264 


AMEIIICAN   EXPLOUATrONS    IN   THE    ICE   ZONES. 


siinvv  would  be  off  the  sea,  and  they  would  have  very  L,n('iit  tidi.Me. 
The  journey  to  Terror  liay,  on  the  west  side  ol'  the  Island,  where  ii  w^s 
said  a  tent  had  once  been  found,  tiie  (loor  of  whieh  was  complcltiv 
covered  with  the  remains  of  white  men,  and  even  a  shorter  jourmv  tn 
Point  liiehardson  were  tluucfoie  given  up.  'I'iie  return  party  consisted 
of  fifteen  persons  with  a  team  of  eighteen  dogs,  t)ne  of  these  not  hi  in.r 
jiermitted  to  do  work  for  some  days  for  having  eaten  up  a  biihc  wliich 
a  native  woman  had  thrown  away  on  tinding  it  was  not  a  male.     In- 

iiook-j -zhce-jook  had  proved  so  skilful  a  guide  that  Hall  now  took  no 

aeeounl  of  his  courses,  but  gave  himself  up  to  the  noting  down  ol'  what- 
ever further  accounts  of  Franklin  men  he  could  glean.  The  cut  repre- 
sents a  page  of  these  notes  written  on  the  rough  sled. 

Just  hefoi'c  reaching  (ape  Weynton,  Papa  Tewa  shot  a  mother  (h^ci. 
which  lh'(l,  leaving  the  fawn  to  have  its  life  "footed  out,"  as  the  term 
is,  for  pressing  down  heavily  one  foot  over  the  young  heart.  Vvnwi 
this  point  the  chief  items  of  interest  were  in  the  repeated  and  successful 
hunts  of  the  musk-ox.  The  natives  were  eager  for  the  hunt,  and  Hall 
himself  went  in  with  them,  killing  three  with  two  balls,  whieh  wtic 
found  lodged  in  the  third;  Hannah  killed  four  young  ones. 

The  striking  points  of  these  hunts  are  illustrative  of  Tnnuit  customs 
and  of  the  habits  of  the  ox  when  attacked.  The  fight  was  at  the  plaif 
where  two  bands  were  successively  seen.  When  the  first  of  these  was 
surrounded,  as  soon  as  they  perceived  that  the  dogs  were  sli[)ped,  they 
formed  into  their  usual  one  circle  of  defence,  "a  musk-bull  batteiytif 
nine  solid  battering  heads  and  twice  the  number  of  shai'i)ened  lionis." 
The  dogs  were  quickly  at  these  heads,  barking  and  jumping  back  and 
forward,  while  the  hunters  made  no  haste  to  advance,  for  they  knew 
that  the  bulls  would  stand  their  ground  all  day  if  no  other  enemies 
came. 

"  After  a  few  minutes'  watch  of  the  movements  of  dog  versus  hull 
and  bull  versus  dog,  the  old  hunter,  In-nook-poo-zhee-jook,  went  f(n\\ ard 
to  -vvitliin  twelve  feet  of  a  large  bull,  carrying  a  lance  which  had  a  Hue 
attached  by  which  he  could  draw  it  back  ;  but  at  his  second  throw,  the 
wounded  and  infuriated  bull  nuule  a  fearful  forward  plunge,  from  the 
effects  of  which  the  hunter  and  his  companions  escaped  only  by  a  very 


LKTTKU   TO   MU.   'iUlNNELL. 


265 


tinu'ly  jump  to  tluj  li'Tt.  TIk;  bull  was  soon  ii^'iu  bmujrht,  to  bay. 
On-i-lii  then  pulled  trin'ijcr  on  aiiotlicr  iinl)l(!  bull  of  tlic  circle  ol' 
,l,.|'i  iicc.  and  l*a-pii  shot  tliL'  one  wliicli  had  bcrn  lanced,  when  at  liie 
II, )i-'  nl'  these  guns  the  whole  eirele  bolted  away,  exeejil  two,  who  stood 
tliiii'  n'round,  side  by  side,  long  after  the  whoU-  liuhl  was  ended,  and 
cvi  II  when  the  dogs  were  driven  away  I'roni  them  and  stones  had  been 

tlir^wii."' 

'•Instead  of  moving,  each  of  these  two  l<e])t  thr(n\iiig  liis  massive 
licad  down  between  his  forefee.':,  rubbing  the  ti[)  of  eaeh  horn  againsi 
till'  inii'lcg  as  one  would  rub  u  razor  on  a  strop.  This  is  the  aidnial's 
liiiliii  unless  he  finds  himself,  when  attacked,  near  sonu;  large  stone 
which  h(;  may  use  for  the  same  purpose  of  shar[)ening  his  horns.  The 
Wdik  of  death  upon  the  others  of  this  band  and  upon  the  second  ])and, 
was  completed  by  the  rest  of  Hall's  men  Avith  guns,  spears,  and   the 

liiiW." 

The  number  of  oxen  killed  on  this  return  journey  nund)ered  seventy- 
nine  :  their  skins  weighed  nearly  lune  hundred  pounds.  As  many  as 
ciojiii  .11  deer  also  were  taken,  and  the  sui)ply  of  small  game  was  as 
nodii.  Ilali  felt  prompted  to  write  that  if  Crozicr  had  enjoyed  the 
lucilities  which  he  now  had,  the  lost  men  would  have  been  saved. 
Before  the  close  of  the  month  his  party  were  congratulating  them- 
selves on  the  abundance  laid  up  for  feasting  and  on  an  entire  surrender 
(»f  themselves  to  repose. 

In  a  letter  to  Mr.  (irinnell  to  be  forwarded  if  occasion  oifered  before 
his  own  return  to  the  States,  he  summed  up  the  results  of  this  visit  espe- 
cially as  to  the  finding  of  some  of  the  remains  of  the  luissing  navigators, 
;iii(l  determining  anew  that  the  "Erebus"  and  "Terror "had  indeed 
made  the  long  desired  northwest  passage,  and  had  perished  there. 

The  substance  of  the  letter  was,  that  he  had  intended  to  make  this 
journey  the  season  previous,  but  had  visited  Melville  Peninsula  with 
the  ardent  expectation  of  rescuing  there  some  of  Franklin's  lost  com- 
[lanioiis.  and  that  on  his  late  journey  to  King  William  Land  he  had 
i'muHl  the  following  traces  of  Crozier's  sad  history:  —  that  late  in  July, 
1S48,  with  about  forty  men  he  had  ])assed  down  the  west  coast  near 
Cape  Herschel,  his  party  dragging  two  sleds ;  that  just  before  reaching 


id 


i       !k 


:     \PI 


rv^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


bi|28     |2.5 

|50    ■^~       ■■■ 

u  m    |2.2 
2.0 


1-25  iU   11.6 


Photographic 

Sdeaices 

Corporation 


fV 


•'^ 


\\ 


fv 


■«V' 


O^ 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14560 

(/1 6)  872-4503 


Q^ 


^ 


f 

f: 

1 

M' 

1  ' 

m 


i5 


2G6 


AMERICAN  EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE  ICE  ZONES. 


tlie  cape  he  had  encamped  near  four  families  of  natives  who,  in  tlic 
night,  had  left  the  suttering  party;  that  the  skeleton  of  (ine  ol  the 
party  found  by  McClintock  had  never  been  seen  by  the  natives;  that 
east  of  Pfeffer  Kiver  on  the  sea  shore  two  had  died  and  been  Ituriod ; 
that  five  miles  eastward,  another  had  been  buried;  that  on  'Indds 
Islet  were  the  remains  of  live;  that  on  the  west  of  Point  Uicliardson, 
Poo-yet-ta,  known  to  Sir  John  Ross,  had  seen  an  awning-covered  Imat 
with  tbe  remains  of  more  than  thirty;  and  that  a  little  way  inlaiid 
from  Terror  Bay  a  large  tent  was  known  to  have  had  its  floor  cdvi'ied 
with  remains. 

Hall  further  wrote  that  he  had  tried  hard  to  accomplish  more,  be- 
lieving that  he  could  have  gatli- 
ered  up  the  remains  of  many  more 
of  the  unfortunate  men,  and  iiii^dii 
have  recovered  the  manuscript  rec- 
ords spoken  of  to  him  as  deposited 
in  the  vault  at  Cape  Victory,  but 
that  not  one  of  his  company 
would  on  any  account  whatever 
remain  with  him  for  a  summer 
search,  for  which  refusal,  he  did 
not  blame  them,  knowing  as  he  did  the  character  of  the  strange 
natives.     He  said:  — 

"I  could  readily  have  gathered  great  quantities  of  the  relics  of  tlie 
expedition  for  they  are  now  possessed  by  natives  all  over  the  Arctic 
regions  from  Pond's  Bay  to  Mackenzie  River;  I  had  to  be  satisfied 
with  taking  upon  our  sleds  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  pounds  total 
weight  including  part  of  one  side  of  a  clinker-built  and  copper-fastened 
boat,  a  small  oak  sledge-runner,  piece  of  the  mast  of  the  ship  which 
made  the  passage,  a  chronometer  box  with  the  queen's  broad  arrow  en- 
graved on  it,  a  mahogany  writing-desk,  and  many  pieces  of  silver  plate, 
forks  and  spoons,  parts  of  watches,  and  knives  bearing  crests  and 
initials  of  the  owners.  The  ship  which  made  the  passage  with  live 
men  on  board  was  found  by  the  Ook-joo-lik  natives  near  O'Reily  Island 
lat.  68°  30'  N.,  Ion.  99  W.,  eaily  in  the  spring  of  1849." 


I'AKTS  OF  Sill  JOHN   FKANKLIN'S  DESK. 

Exhibited  at  the  U.S.  Centennial  (deposited  at  the  Sinithaonian). 


TWO  NEW  VOYAGES   I'ROI'OSED. 


AN   ARCTIC   SUMMER. 


267 


The  temperature  during  July  was  high,  and  rains  and  storms,  fre- 
quent, the  storms  conung  generally  from  S.S.E.  and  N.E.  The  lowest 
real  lings  of  the  thermometer  at  night  were  from  40°  to  46°,  and  the 
hiolu'st  at  noon  from  GO  to  71°.  A  storm  on  the  19th  was  accompanied 
bv  >liarp  lightning.  Hannah  told  Hall  that  in  her  country  lightning 
was  always  fatal  to  red  dogs ;  her  people  always  killed  them  when 
vdiiiii;.  The  plains  were  now  purple  with  the  wild  saxifrage  (saxi- 
tra^a  oppositifolia) ;  its  beautiful  flowers,  followed  by  those  of  other 
lldial  tribes, clothed  the  earth  with  carpets  of  gold,  crimson,  blue,  white, 
j)iiik.  and  straw-color.  The  Andromeda  tetraf/ona,  so  often  used  as 
tliti  shrub  fuel,  itself  bore  pretty  flowers.  Hall's  collection  of  wild 
flowers  embraced  a  dozen  varieties.  Mosquitoes  were  very  num- 
erous and  persistent;  a  walk  on  shore  seemed  unbearable,  unless 
every  exposed  part  of  the  body  was  covered  with  a  defence.  Hall's 
was  coal-oil. 

lie  was  now  for  some  weeks  solicitous  as  to  his  return  home.  Con- 
scious that  he  could  accomplish  nothing  further  of  research,  he  purposed 
to  publish  the  results  of  his  protracted  Arctic  experience,  and  then  make 
a  voyage  to  the  Pole,  on  which  subject  he  had  long  meditated ;  then 
iiyaln  to  return  to  King  William  Land.  The  expression  of  such  pur- 
l)oses  conies  strangely  from  one  whose  sledge  journeys  only  during  the 
live  years  now  ended,  footed  up  more  than  four  thousand  miles.  Noth- 
ing but  the  extreme  of  a  strange  fascination  with  an  uncouth  life  can 
explain  this.  He  says  himself  that  whatever  food  the  natives  delighted 
in  delighted  him ;  that  he  had  enjoyed  a  grand  gof)d  feast  on  the  kind  of 
meat  he  had  been  longing  for,  "the  deer  killed  last  fall,  rotten,  strong, 
and  sthiking,  and  for  these  qualities  excellent  for  the  Innuits  and  for 
tlie  writer."  This,  however,  must  not  be  taken  as  an  indication  of  any 
sympathy  with  the  low  and  immoral  practices  he  was  compelled  to  wit- 
ness. Unable  to  restrain  the  demoralization  brought  on  by  large  suc- 
cesses in  the  hunts  when  the  Innuits  ate  three-fourths  of  their  food  for 
the  mere  pleasure  of  eating,  he  was  yet  more  pained  by  the  fact  that  the 
hunts  were  made  occasions  for  promiscuous  concubinage.    This  was  the 


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268 


AMEllICAN    EXPLOUATIONS   IN  THE   ICE  ZONES. 


:n 


T  ! 


constant  pnictieu.  Iliinnuh  said  she  "would  rather  die  right  away  ihmi 
stay  at  the  hay." 

While  he  was  hoping  for  the  sight  of  a  wlialer,  he  succeeded  with 
native  help  in  guniniing  nearly  eight  hundred  pounds  of  bone  from  the 
whale  cached  the  year  previous,  on  the  sale  of  which  and  of  his  musk-ox 
skins  he  was  expecting  to  repay  some  of  the  costs  of  the  vcvam,'. 
But  now  the  question  of  the  possibility  of  his  being  compelled  to 
attenij)t  in  his  frail  boat  a  voyage  to  York  Factory,  Hudson's  iJay, 
without  a  chart,  was  happily  settled  by  the  arrival  of  the  "AiistU 
Gibbs"  of  New  Bedford,  on  board  of  which  vessel  he  took  up  his  (|iuii'. 
ters  with  Eskimo  Joe,  Hannah,  and  her  adopted  child  Pun-im;  at 
Ig-loo-lik  two  years  before  he  had  bartered  a  sled  for  this  child,  to 
console  Hannah  for  the  death  of  her  own  babe. 

The  whaler  left  the  Welcome  August  28th,  passed  through  Hudsous 
Bay  and  Straits  without  the  occurrence  of  any  incident  of  uii usual 
interest,  and  came  into  the  harbor  of  New  Bedford,  Mass.,  SejjtLiiihir 
2U,  18(10. 

When  nearing  the  lighthouse  of  Nantucket,  Mass.,  Hannah  and  her 
child  doffed  their  native  dresses  for  those  of  a  civilized  land.  At  the 
Parker  House,  New  Bedford,  Hall  made  his  last  journal  entry,  So[)t(iii- 
ber  26,  1869,  2  p.m.:  "How  thankful  to  high  Heaven  ought  my  i)n(ir 
heart  to  be  for  the  blessed  privilege  of  again  placing  my  foot  upon  the 
land  of  my  country." 

He  immediately  telegraphed  his  arrival  to  Mr.  Henry  rJiMiuell, 
expressing  his  hope  of  seeing  him  in  a  few  days  in  New  York,  and 
within  the  next  month,  was  at  work  in  that  city  for  his  North  Polar 
Expedition  of  1871. 


noKNS  OF  .MUSK-OX  AND  DKKU  SHOT  HV  UANNAU, 


CHAPTER    VIII. 

THE   XOUTII   I'OLK   EXl'KDITIOX   OF   1S71. 

1IAI,|/S  KAPvLY  DKSIKE  TO  KEACH  THE  POLE  —  LECTl'KE  IN  WASIMNCJ- 
T(»N  —  Al'l'HOPUIATION  HY  CONCiUESS  —  THE  "I'OLAIMS"  SAILS  Vlum 
Ni;\V  VOKK — AKIUVES  AT  FISKEItNAES  —  U.S.S.  "  CONtJKESS"  AT  (J01>- 
IIAVN  —  HANS    HENDlllCK  —  TESSUISSAK  —  NOUTH   WATEIl   llEACHEI) 

—  THE  "Polaris"  ijeset  at  82°  lo'  —  consultation  —  DitiiT  to 

Tin;  SOUTH — ANCHORED  TO  PROVIDENCE  BEIU; — WINTER  QUARTERS 

—  SLED(;E  JOURNEY  —  DEPOSIT  IN  THE  CAIRN  —  HALL's  DEATH  AND 
lUIIIAL  —  ^VINTER   OF  1871-72  —  AURORAS  —  RETUP.N  OF   THE   SUN  — 

THE  "Polaris"   leaves    the    harbor  —  drifts   south  —  the 

SKI'APtATION  —  THE  SHIP  LEAKING  —  HOUSE  ON  THE  FLf)E  —  DRIFT 
OK  THE  FLOE  PARTY  AND  RESCUE  —  RELIEF  SHIPS  SENT  FOR  THE 
"POLARIS" — DkLONC's  CRUISE  —  RESCUE  OF  THE  "  POLARIS  "  PARTY 
I5V  THE  "  RAVENSCRAIG  " — HALL's   MEMORIALS  —  MEDAL   AWARDED 

—  TAI5LET    PUT    UP    RY    THE    ENGLISH    EXPEDITION THE    ESKIMOS 

KID-LA-GO,  JOE,  HANNAH,  OUSE-GOONG,  AND  ABBOT  —  GRAVES  AT 
(lliOTON,  CONN. 

DIJIIING  eiujli  of  Ilall's  two  residences  among  the  Eskimos  he 
repeatedly  spoke  of  his  hope  to  lead  an  Expedition  toward  the 
Pole ;  writing  to  a  friend  as  early  as  1863,  "My  third  voyage  will 
be  to  the  northern  axis  of  the  great  globe."  He  renewed  like  expres- 
sions in  the  notes  of  his  Second  Voyage,  and  wrote  to  the  Committee 
of  IJ.  S.  Senate  on  Foreign  Aflairs,  March  29,  1870,  that  for  years  he 
had  hold  this  in  mind. 

In  the  beginning  of  that  year,  on  a  visit  to  Washington  City,  lie  had 
called  upon  President  Grant,  and,  not  long  after,  lectured  before  him 
in  response  to  an  invitation  signed  by  the  Vice-President  and  members 
of  the  Cabinet  and  of  Congress  then  in  session.  After  a  laborious  and 
anxious  season  of  suspense,  he  succeeded  in  obtaining  an  appropriation 
for  an  Expedition  to  the  North  Pole,  in  the  sum  of  850,000,  by  a  clause 
incorporated  in  the  Legislative,  Executive,  and  Judicial  Appropriation 
Bill,  approved  by  the  President  July  12,  1870.     Eight  days  afterward, 

269 


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270 


AMKUICAN   EXPLOUATION8  IN  THE  ICE  ZONES. 


4,1 


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he  received  a  coimnission  as  Coinmaiuler  of  the  Exi)e(liti()ii,  wliidi 
recjuired  hiiu  to  ie[)oi't  to  the  Secretaries  of  the  Navy  and  of  the  Int.  lior 
Departments  for  detailed  instructions.  The  Act  authorized  tii(!  Si  ( i,.. 
tary  of  the  Navy  to  enijih)y  any  suitable  vessel  in  the  Exi)editi(»ii.  and 
providcil  that  the  scientilic  operations  should  be  prescribed  in  a( ciud- 
ance  with  the  advice  of  the  National  Academy  of  Sciences. 

The  vessel  selected  as  available  for  the  purpose  was  the  stcMincr 
"Periwinkle,"  a  tug  which  had  seen  some  service  in  the  war  ul  the 
rebellion  ;  her  burden  was  three  hundred  and  eighty-seven  tons.  At  in 
being  newly  and  heavily  tind)ered  and  strengthened  in  her  side  plank- 
ing, the  bottom  was  thort)Ughly  calked,  then  double-planked,  calktMl 
and  coi)pered.  Everything  else  deemed  necessary  for  safety  and  ((ini- 
fort  was  also  done  with  such  care  that  "no  vessel,  even  if  especially 
built,  could  have  been  better  adapted  to  the  service."  *  Launched  at 
the  Washington  yard,  April  25,  1871,  she  was  named  by  Hall  the 
"Polaris,"  under  which  name  she  sailed  for  New  York,  June  10,  and, 
after  further  equipment  at  the  Brookl^'n  yard,  proceeded  to  New  l.un- 
don,  June  29,  and  sailed  for  the  Arctic  Zone  July  3. 

Her  complement  of  officers,  including  the  scientific  corjis,  was :  — 

C.  F.  Hall,  commander. 

S.  O.  Budington,  sailing-master. 

George  E.  Tyson,  assistant  navigator. 

H.  C.  Chester,  mate. 

William  Morton,  second  mate. 

Emil  Schumann,  chief  engineer. 

A.  A.  Odell,  assistant  engineer. 

N.  J.  Coffin,  carpenter. 
.     Emil  Bessels,  surgeon,  chief  of  scientific  staff. 

R.  W.  D.  Bryan,  astronomer. 

Frederick  Meyer,  meteorologist. 
The  crew  consisted  of  fourteen  persons,  and  the  two  Eskimos,  Joe 
and  Hannah,  were  again  Hall's  companions. 

*  This  endorsement  of  the  fitness  of  the  "Polaris"  for  Arctic  service,  quoted  from 
the  late  Admiral  Davis,  is  a  sufficient  answer  to  the  contrary  representations  mado  iiy 
some  of  the  under  officers  of  the  ship,  and  on  that  authority  only  copied  in  foreign  pul)- 


HALLS    INSTUUCTIONS. 


271 


Secretary  K<)l)e8on's  instructions  to  the  Commander  advised  him 
tliiit  iu'  might  expect  additional  supplies  through  a  transport  which  he 
wouM  meet  at  Holsteinborg,  or  at  Disco,  and,  that  after  receiving  these 
111  >liituUl  proceed  across  Melville  Bay  to  Cape  Dudley  Digges,  and 
tlitiici'  make  all  possible  progress  with  vessel,  boats,  and  sledges  toward 
till'  Nuith  Pole,  using  his  own  judgment  as  to  the  route  and  the  loca- 
tion of  his  winter  quarters.  The  operations  of  the  Scientific  Depart- 
iiH'iit  being  recjuired  by  law  to  be  in  accordance  with  the  advice  of  the 
National  Academy,  he  was  furnished  with  a  full  copy  of  their  sugges- 
tions, and  instructed  to  give  to  the  head  of  the  Scientific  Corps  every 
facility  in  carrying  these  into  effect.  Dr.  Bessels  was  to  renuun  chief 
(if  tliis  corps  in  the  event  of  the  death  of  the  Commander,  and  Captain 
Hiidiiigton  to  continue  as  the  sailing  and  ice-master,  and  control  and 
direct  the  movements  of  the  vessel.  The  "  Polaris  "  was  provisioned 
and  ecjuipped  for  two  and  a  half  years,  but  her  cruise  was  not  restricted 
to  this  period,  if  Hall's  objects  called  for  an  extension  of  time  and  his 
sui)plies  would  hold  out.  Appreciating  the  opportunities  which  might 
otter  for  the  extension  of  the  knowledge  of  geography  and  of  otiier 
sciences,  the  Secretary  added  to  his  instructions  relative  to  the  work  of 
the  Seientilic  Corps,  that  any  and  all  individual  observations  or  collec- 
tions made  by  persons  outside  of  the  corps  should  be  considered,  as  is 
usual,  public  proj)erty,  and  placed  under  the  charge  of  the  chief  of  the 
Scientific  Department.  The  positions  of  capes,  headlands,  and  islands, 
and  tiie  coast-lines,  and  the  observations  of  tides  and  currents,  with 
the  making  of  surveys,  were  also  objects  of  the  Secretary's  instruc- 
tions, besides  the  detailed  suggestions  of  the  Academy  on  these  sub- 
jects, furnished  as  of  equal  authority. 

"Hairs  own  views  of  Arctic  investigation,"  says  Admiral  Davis, 
"were  much  more  comprehensive  than  might  be  inferred  from  the 
means  and  material  employed  in  his  previous  Expedition.  His  own 
lilan  embraced  two  vessels,  together  with  a  large  supply  of  dogs  and 
sledges.     If  he  could  have  carried  out  this  plan,  he  meant  to  maintain 

lications.  Admiral  Davis  used  tills  language  to  express  the  result  of  his  inquiries  at  the 
Navy  Department  and  at  the  Washington  Navy  Yard,  at  which  yard  an  outlay  exceeding 
tlie  sum  of  $90,000  had  heeu  expended  on  the  "reriwinkle." 


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AMKUICAN    EXPLORATIONS    IN   TIIK    ICK   ZONKS. 


W'Tid 


an  occasional  conununicalion  Ixitween  liiniself  and  the  civilizt'd 
wherever  lie  might  be.     And  there  is  no  (hmbt  that,  for  tlio  uccom|ilisl|. 


ment  of  this,  he  would  have  turned  to  a  good  account  his  familiarity 
with  Eskimo  life,  language,  and  customs.     Thus  he  would  have  been 


FISKKIJNAKS   AND    IIOLSTKINIKHM!. 


::73 


;,1,1,  not  only  to  report  progress,  but  to  recrivi;  julditioiial  aid  from 
l„,iii, .  Siuli  was  liis  expoctatictii.  If  we  carry  our  minds  l);iik-  to 
the  hi^titry  of  Arctic  Hx[tlorati<»n,  wo  pcrccivu  at  once  how  many 
I  vil>  aic  avoided,  and  how  many  udvantaifes  reaped  hy  this  jciint 
iiMipcratiim."  * 

(>ii  the  voyage  to  Newfoundland  the  "P(tlaris"  eneountere(l  heavy 
wiMilicr  and  fretfuent  fogs.  On  thi;  lOth  she  made  Cape  l{a(;e,  ami  on 
[III'  iLllh  anchored  at  St.  John's.  Ilall  here  again  received  every  cdur- 
iis\  and  attention  from  the  authorities  of  the  I'rovince;  in  turn  he 
I  uiritiiined  the  (ioveruor  und  his  suite.  'J'he  shij*  left  St.  Jolnr.s  fur 
(irtiiiland  on  the  I'.Uh,  and  on  the  -Tth  had  the  llrst  sight  of  higli 
>ii(i\\-(iivered  peaks,  and  of  wel(M)ming  natives  in  their  kai/n/cs.  'Tlie 
sMiiir  day  the  "  I'olaris "' dropped  aneiior  in  tlie  harbor  of  Fisktiiiars, 
wiiciv  sht!  was  visited  by  Governor  Schoenheidter,  and  on  the  ni-xt 
il;i\  Iiy  the  greater  part  of  the  ])opulation,  especially  by  the  wnmcn. 
••>niiu'  of  these  were  thought  to  be  liandsome ;  all  were  gayly  dn-ssed, 
wearing  boots  of  well-tanned  seal-skin,  which  reached  above  the  knee, 
seal-skin  trousers  tastefully  onuimented  with  needle-work,  and  jackets 
(dvci'cd  with  bright  ch)tli  and  trimmed  around  the  neck,  wrists,  and 
I'lwcr  edges  with  fur  and  pretty  bead  ornaments." 

Alter  a  visit  by  some  of  the  party  to  tlu;  Moravian  Missionaries  at 
hiclitcnfels,  wluj,  at  this  i)lace,  have  care  of  inon;  than  half  ot"  the 
wiidlc  number  of  Eskimos  of  (rreenland  under  them,  the  shii»  left  the 
hiulinr  and  anchored,  on  the  8tst,  in  IIolsteinl)org.  At  this  jiort  a 
Swedish  Scientific  Expedition  under  the  command  of  Baron  Von  Otter, 
iidw  on  its  return  voyage,  brought  Hall  the  good  news  from  I'per- 
iiavik.  that  the  season  w'as  promising,  few  icebergs  having  been  seen 
111  t ween  Ilolsteinborg  and  Disco,  and  none  recently  between  l)is':o  and 
I'liernavik.  Baron  Von  Otter  received  Hall's  first  dispatches  for  the 
Secretary  of  the  Navy.  His  ship  expected  to  stop  at  St.  John's.  The 
"I'lilaris"  awaited  the  arrival  of  the  U.  S.  ship  "Congress,"  the  trans- 
iKiit  which  was  to  renew  his  supplies  and  bring  further  instructions, 

*  Narrative  of  the  North  Polar  Expedition  of  1871,"  edited  under  the  direction  of 
the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  by  Kear- Admiral  C.  II.  Davis,  U.  8.  Naval  Observutory,  1876. 
Fiuni  tliis  volume  cliielly  the  present  clmpter  has  been  prepared. 


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274 


AMRUirAN    KXl'LOItATIONS    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZONES. 


but  left  the  harbor  August  3,  and,  uiulor  the  j^uithiiice  of  a  iiativo  |iil,,t. 
tweuly-tbur  hours  al'lerwarda,  was  salt'  iu  the  Iiarbor  of  (Jodhavn.     On 


■/I 

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the  Gth  the  Coinuiander,  aecompanied  by  several  of  his  i)eople,  attorn  Id  1 
divine  service  in  the  neat  but  very  phun  cliapel  of  the   Moravian  • 


HANS    IIKNIHUCK    KNUAOED. 


|I\  iiiiis  were  cliantod,  passii^cs  of  tlui  Scriptures  road,  jtrayers  ofTcrcd, 
;iiiil  .1  si-ruHdi  jirt'aflitMl  by  the  Cati'cliist  in  tiii'  ahsi-iicc  nl'  tlic  rr^Milar 
,  l,i.;\  man.     'I'lic   Chief    Iiisi)ect(>r   «»f   the    District,    Mr.    Siuitli,    who 
iiiiil  ii"W  c'oiiu'  to  (lodhavii  in  response  to  a  niessaj^e  sent  hy  a  l)oat 
jniiiinv  uinler  Mate  Chester  to   Kitteiibeek,  was  visitt'd  by   Mali   and 
l,v  (apt.  II.  Iv.  Davenport,  U.S.N.,  who  had  arrived  in  eonmiand  of 
till'   transport,   the   "  Con^iess,"   and   wliose  ollieers  on   huidin<;'  were 
salutid  by  a  battery  of  six   O-poumh'rs,  whieh  was   returned   by  the 
••Ciiiii^Moss,"   the    Danish   lhi}j;  bi'ing  hoisted  at  her  nuist-head.      The 
liisiK'ctor  very  cordially  responded  to  the  letters  of  the  Secretary  of 
the  Navy,  presented  by  ('apt.  Davenport,  consenting  to  receive  and 
liire  liir  in  the  (Jovernnient  store-house,  the  stores  and  provisions  for 
the    use    of    the    Expedition,  —  the    "Congress"    had    brought    sup- 
plies  beyond    present    necessities.     IJefore   the  shi[>  left    the    harbor. 
Captain    Davenport    gave    "some    jutlicious   instructions   and    advice 
to   the   crew  of  the  '  I'olaris,'  which,  considering  the   heterogeneous 
cliaratler  of  the   ship's  company,  was   well-timed";    had  it  been  fol- 
lowed, some  later  ditliculties  might  have   been  prevented.     Kev.  Dr. 
Newman,  of  Washington,  Kev.  E.  D.  liryan,  of  Carbondale,  Pa.,  and 
(apt.  .bimes  Budington,  of  Groton,  Conn.,  (the  salvor  of  the  British 
slii|»  "Resolute,"  )  passengers  on  the  " Congress,"  returned  in  her.    'J'he 
'•rolaris"  left  (iodhavn  on  the  17th,  and  the  next  day  Svartehuk  was 
(III  the  starboard  beam,  distant  eight  miles  ;  and  at  1  A.  M.  of  tin;  19th 
the  slii[)  anchored  in  Upernavik,  Ijaving  made  a  run  of  two  liundred 
ami  twenty-tive  miles  in  thirty-three  and  a  lialf  hours.    The  inhabitants 
wi'if  all   asleep,  and  were  not  easily  awakened;  the  sun  at  midnight 
hail  licni  but  four  degrees  below  the  horizon,  and  it  was  then  but  one 
udur  and  a  half  to  his  rising. 

Mate  Chester  was  now  disi)atched  in  a  boat  to  Proven,  fifty  miles 
soutliward,  to  bring  Hans  Ilcndrick  to  the  ship,  and  a  kayak  was  sent 
till'  same  distance  northward  to  procure  Janson  of  Tessuissak,  whose 
srrvicts,  however,  were  not  secured.  Hans  Hendriek  contracted  to 
st'ivc  as  dog-driver  and  servant  at  a  salary  of  fifty  Danish  dollars  per 
nioiith.  His  wife  and  three  children  came  on  board  the  "Polaris"  with 
tluir  luggage  of  bags,  boxes,  skins,  cooking  utensils,  tools,  im[)lements 


i'l  f 


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270 


AMKKICAN    KXI'LOHATIONH    IN    TFIK    ICK   ZONKS. 


«»f  the  cliaso,  ami  three  »ti-  four  impjiij-s  whose  fy«'s  eoiihl  Heiireelv  \>v,w 
tho  lij^lit.  Thi'se  aci-oiiipaiiiiiieiits,  as  tui  the  I^xpeditioii  '»f'  I\'.  II.iv.s, 
proved  a  iiuisaiM;e  ;  Hans,  a  most  useful  hel|iei'.  lie  did  not  recoMni/,. 
Morton  until  tiiu  latter  had  pointed  out  some  svars  on  Hans'  ii.;|it 
hand,  the  r«Muains  of  injuries  from  a  powder  (.'Xplosion  on  the  slmiv  of 
Kennedy  Chaniu'l.  Twenty  years  had  passed  since  the  two  had  mnilc 
for  Kane  the  memoralde  sledj;'e  journey  to  ('a[ie  Ctuislitution  and  iln- 
repoi'ted  ••open  Polar  Sea." 

The  I'liernavik  settlenn-nt  consists  of  some  twenty-two  hoiisi^  in. 
haltitcil  l»\  sixtv  Eskimos.     The\-  aiipeareil  even  less  cleanlv  than  tliMx- 

L  I  lit  t 

in  the  mor(!  southern  settlemeids.  Just  hack  of  the  settlement  on  ihc 
slojic  (»f  the  ridge,  is  u  graveyard,  distingiiishcil  hy  crosses,  head-hoanls. 
and  little  inulosures  marking  the  graves,  "Tlu;  ahsencc;  of  vegetal idii. 
the  want  of  uu'thod  in  the  arrangeiiuMit  of  the  graves,  and  the  di-iii;il 
asjjeet  of  the  fragments  of  unsightly  roi-k  covering  the  surface,  ;iiMi(l 
greatly  to  the  sadness  and  dreariness  of  that  ncutheru  cemetery.  Thr 
hardness  of  tho  ground  making  it  necessary  to  [ilace  tlu;  eoHins  on  it> 
surface,  and  cover  them  with  stones,  the  remains  in  the  comsi'  of  timt' 
often  heeonu'  exposed."  At  this  settlement,  ohservatious  for  pi^iiinu 
were  made  and  its  nuignotie  elentents  determined ;  collections  of  the 
faumi  atid  lloraof  the  surrounding  country  were  ol)taiue<l  and  itsge(.l(i^\ 
studied.  Photographs  were  also  secured  of  Eskimo  life  and  hahits.  'I'lic 
"Polaris"  took  on  hoard  five  tons  of  coal,  aiul  a  large  numher  ol'  scil 
and  dog  skins;  and  now  twelve  d(»gs,  added  to  a  pack  made  n[i  nt  Si. 
John's,  hegan  their  hideous  howlings  on  hoard  ship.  On  leaving  tlir 
liarhor,  dispatches  were  again  made  up  for  the  Secretary  of  the  N;iv\. 
and  placed  in  the  hands  of  Governor  Rudolph,  who  sailed  on  the  liNi 
for  Denmark  in  the  brig  "  Juliaidioi»e.*' 

August  24,  Hall  was  again  at  sea,  having  left  his  last  stopping-iilacc 
Tessuissak.  He  had  failed  to  secure  the  services  of  Jansen  to  a((  nm- 
pany  him  on  the  cruise,  but  was  skilfully  i)iloted  by  him  thnnigli  the 
narrow  channel  and  the  islets;  and  he  had  again  increased  his  tlnn 
teams,  and  seems  to  have  been  at  this  honr  of  "striking  for  the  V><\v" 
fully  satisfied  with  all  the  eqnipments  of  his  ship  and  tho  prnmisc 
before  him.     He  wrote  that  the  prospects  of  the  Expedition  were  tine, 


HAM,  S    MIMCillT    llnl'KS. 


nioic  so  than  lie  had  ever  hoped  or  piiiycd  for.     The   '    j  which  ('V<'ii 
tlit'ii  >lii)t  (h)Wti  upon  him  was  to  him  no  uincii  of  evil. 


1-1 

V. 


I'l'i'  a  niunber  of  days  fonowiii*;-  he  had  iiidced  reasons  for  being 
stitn;4ihencd  in  every  ground  for  encouragement.     His  advance  was 


r 
III 


'i|i|ii 


', '  « 


'  H'  /i 


I 


1  ! 


'i  I'i 


I     i'! 


?"i 


27. 


AMKUICAN    KXI'LOUATIONS    IX    THE   ICK   ZONKS. 


more  rapid  than  had  beou  secured  tm  any  former  Arctic  voyage.  For 
the  iirst  thirty  miles  other  course  from  the  harbor  the  ship  was  In  ;i,l,.il 
due  north,  careful  lof)kouts  beiny;  posted  on  watch  for  the  coast  (1;iiil;i  is 


sail  Was 


echiT; 


as  the  fog'  continued:  at  noon  of  the  ^oth,  when  it  lifted,  all 
set  to  a  freshening  brt-eze  and  ('a])e  York  was  soon  sighted.  I 
were  numerous,  and  the  pack-ice  more  than  once  encountered,  lim  on 
nnining  westward  along  its  southern  edge,  the  "  Polaris,"  al'ter  s. me 
buffeting  and  working  through  the  pack,  stood  on  a  course  aliMin 
>J.N.\V.  true,  and  on  tlu;  night  of  the  2()th  left  the  Cape  beliiml  Inr. 
The  north  water  had  thus  been  favorably  reached  in  about  forty-*  i^lii 
1 


iours. 


("I'owds  of  walruses  were  now  seen  ])laekeiiing  two  lloe  pieces  wliidi 
covered  areas  of  half  a  mile  each,  'i'hey  were  lazily  slee[)iiiu.  and 
showed  no  signs  of  apprehension  at  the  ajiproach  of  the  ship  i'urilici 
than  to  roll  their  heads  la/ilv  about.  Huddled  closelv  to^'ilier  aiiii 
(tffering  easy  range  to  each  lloe  as  tlu>  ship  jjassed  between  llicin. 
they  were  twice  fired  at  by  l^sk'uK*  Joe,  but  with  the  success  only  ni' 
Wounding.  Captain  Thdl  was  unwilling  that  the  slii[)  should  slop  lni 
the  ca[iture  of  any. 

]\Iueh  ice  was  again    found  off  the   northern   entrance  of  AV 


osini- 


loline  soum 


I;  it 


was 


the  1 


)av-u'e  o 


f  but 


one  winters  u'rowth,  nut  w 


liciv 


it  was  closely  packed,  the  "-Polaris''  had  a  dilhcult  task  to  get  thiniinli: 
vet   at  midnight  of  the  2tlth  she  had  left  Fitz-Clarcuce  Pock  :ii 


01)1  )OSl 


'I'l 


te  C 


11  )e 


P 


urrv 


In  tl 


le   mo 


rninu'  of  the  27th  she  was  con 


Id  \va- 


llicllcH 


for  the  jirxf  tttne  to  stop  off  Mie  western  shore  of  llakluyt  Island. 


For  the  ice  now  (•han'j;'ed  its  character,  bein<>'  found  in   tl 


le  solnl  ami 


permanent  packs  which  had  accumulated  in  bays  and  straits  and  ar 
the  outlying  islands.  Yet  the  sliij)  soon  made  new  a<lvaiices.  Sai 
Master  IJudington  succeeding  from  his  long-matured  iVrctic  ex] 


<>ll!|i| 


II  !'_;■- 


U'l'l'llrr 


in   St 


lect 


iim 


IK!   W( 


akest    .loints   for  tlu>  attack  and  working  t 


irnll^'li 


'verv  favorable  lead.     \t  o  T.M.  ho 


was  oitposi 


le    ( 


a  lie 


Al 


exaiiilcr 


I'allr 


live,  he  had  ])assed  Littleton  Island:  and  at  eight,  crossed  the  ]ia 
of  Kane's  Pi'iisselaer  Harbor.  Smith's  Sound  was  also  found  oiuii. 
The  '•Polaris"  ^\•as  alread\-  in  higher  latitude  than  that  reached  on  ihis 
route  by  any  formi'r  expedition. 


if^ 


WALltl  SKS, 


279 


Wlioii  witliiii   five   miles   of  Point   Joy  on   tlie   28th   tlie  ship  had 
idiiiidcd  tho   northwestern  ])rolon!Ljfation  of  the  paek,  she  was  in   eoin- 


ees  w  hull 
[lini:'.  ;iiiil 
ip  t'lirtlin 
■llicr    ;iii(i 

'I'll       lllClll. 

ss  duh  III' 

il    Sldh  I'lif 


i^i^ 


piirntively  ojieii  watt-r.  ami   in  si^Iit  of  a  siiiiiU   l)ay  which  scciiicil  to  l)0 
Hiii.ible   for  a  harbor.      Mall  was  disposeil  to  pnt  into  winter  (jUaitrn'S 


1-1 
M 


I. '  II 


■III 


4, 

■I    i' 


280 


AMERICAN    KXPLOllATIONS   IN  THE   ICE  ZONES. 


hero  and  tlicii  imsli  forward  toward  tlic  Pole  l»y  sledgos  on  the  ice.  Kiu 
an  cxaiiiiiuitioii  of  tlie  bay  by  hiiiisell'  and  Mate  Cliester  showed  ilmt 
the  water  was  not  (juite  deep  enough  ;  the  "  J'ohiris"  then  resumed  1hi 
course.  Steaming  another  hour  tlirough  the  entrance  of  Kennedy  ('li.in. 
nel  she  passed  Cape  Frazer,  and  running  along  the  land  at  a  distance  nf 
iive  miles,  rapidly  j)assed  Capes  Norton  Shaw,  MeClintock,  and  Lawrence. 
On  tile  '2\K\i  Cape  Leiber  was  distinguished  on  the  western  coast;  mid 
at  1  I'.M.  the  ship  entered  a  strait  some  twenty-live  miles  in  width  and 
worked  her  way  slowly  through  it  despite  of  the  increasing  thickness  df 
the  lines  and  the  force  of  the  currents.  During  the  night  and  fcr 
sev«'r.d  hours  in  the  early  part  of  the  80th,  she  was  kept  moving  towaid 
the  north,  passing  immense  ice-iields  which  increased  with  the  latitude. 
but  at  0  A.M.  she  had  reached  the  norther:;  li7nit.  The  ice  was  so  cem- 
pact  that  it  was  impossible  to  force  the  vessel  through  ;  it  was  lirm  tVem 
one  inast  to  the  other;  so  far  as  the  eye  could  penetrate  the  fog,  tlieie 
was  no  open  space  to  the  north  and  no  sign  of  an  open  passage.  Hall 
was  ill  front  of  an  impassable  barrier.  He  liad,  however,  gaine(l  a 
jioint  \\hi(di  his  observations  gave  as  82°  20',  lat.  N.  from  whicii  delci- 
minatiiiu  the  results  of  Mr.  Meyer's  careful  computations  dill'er  hut 
ten  minutes. 

THE  DRIFT. 

Rut  it  became  impossible  to  keep  the  "Polaris"  at  this  point;  she 
drifted  from  it  with  the  current,  and  on  the  30th  Avas  secured  to  a  lai^o 
berg,  with  which  she  continued  to  drift  southward  until,  on  tlie  ice 
opening  somewhat,  she  was  cast  off  and  was  headed  for  the  eastern 
shore  of  the  channel,  where  a  harbor  was  promptlj  sought. 

In  this  effort  Hall  was  twice  disappointed,  and  yet  it  seemed  evident 
to  all  that  it  was  useless  to  attempt  to  force  a  ])assage  along  the  eastern 
coast  of  the  channel.  After  a  considtation  with  Uudington,  Chestei. 
Tyson,  and  Dr.  Bessels,  he  decided  to  make  an  attemjjt  to  get  to  ilic 
westward,  but  if  unsuccessful,  to  seek  immediately  a  harbor  on  ilie 
eastern  coast  of  the  strait.  Dr.  P>cssels  had  coincided  with  hini  in 
this  de(MS!on.  in  the  hojie  that  a  ])assage  might  be  found  toward  the 
norili  along  the  land  on  the  west  coast,  where  sledge-travelling  in  the 


n 


<\\^t 


•r  i 


m 


ill 


282 


AMERICAN    KXPLOllATIONS    IN   THK    ICK   ZONES. 


spring  might  bo  inoio  practiculjle.  This  was  IlalTs  great  desin  ik  it 
had  been  tiiat  of  Dr.  Hayes,  who,  however,  as  lias  been  noted,  had  i,nl,.,i 
in  it  ten  years  before. 

Mate  Chester  had  given  his  opinion  that  they  should  save  whiH 
advance  liad  been  already  made  in  plaee  of  risking  a  drift  to  the  x.iiih. 
or,  perhajis,  a  fatal  imprisonment  in  the  ice.  Tyson,  who  had  >|,(.|,i 
nnu'h  of  his  time  in  the  Crow's  Nest,  advised  Hall  to  seek  a  IhhImm  ;,^ 
soon  as  possible,  and  if  the  ice  should  be  driven  out  of  the  chiiiiin  1. 
then  start  again  further  north.  Ca[)tain  Hudington  had  poiulcd  (,||| 
the  bay  which  he  wished  the  vessel  to  enter,  and  ex[tressed  hiuixli 
strongly  as  regards  the  dangers  and  dilHiculties  of  an  attcm[)t  to  I'iikc  ;, 
passage  through  the  pack-iee  to  the  west.  The  three  oflicers  urged  thai 
the  ship  had  done  what  she  could;  that  the  west  coast  could  imt  he 
reached  ;  that  the  young  ice  of  winter  had  already  begun  to  i'oriii.  iind 
thiit  there  was  great  danger  of  losing  everything  unless  immcdiahlv 
a  sale  anclu^rage  should  be  secured. 

Hall's  decision  to  go  to  the  west  seemed  during  the  remainder  (if  the 
81st  to  be  fully  justilied  by  the  propitious  state  of  the  weatliei'  ami 
the  indications  of  open  water  to  the  north.  The  atnu)S|)liere  w.is 
very  clear,  distinctly  showing  both  shores  (d'  Kennedy  Channel,  \\lii(  h 
api)eared  t(j  extend  far  to  the  north,  the  western  shore  the  I'lmlKr 
north  before  its  turning  to  the  west.  And  the  nu)st  interesting  >iL;lii 
was  that  of  a  dark-looking  cloud  skirting  the  horizon  to  the  north  ami 
northeast,  and  extending  almost  entirely  across  the  o[)en  si)ace  lututin 
the  two  coasts.  Some  of  the  ship's  company  thought  that  this  was  a 
water-cloud  indicating  the  existence  of  an  open  i)olar  sea;  others  wnc 
certain  that  at  different  [)oints  along  the  cloud  they  saw  plain  oiiilim- 
of  land;  a  few  recoginzed  in  the  darkest  shade  near  the  linrizmi  a 
water-cloud,  but  in  the  lighter  portions,  only  a  fog-baidc  :  and  dtini- 
again  contended  it  was  a  fog-bank  resting  against  a  mountainous  (•(ia>i. 
and  that  where  it  occasionally  opened  they  could  distincth'  see  lnhi 
headlands. 

But,  whatever  may  have  been  the  true  character  of  these  ai»!Mai- 
ances,  i)resented  to  the  eyes  of  men  whose  excited  and  ardent  t'eelint^s 
at  such  an  hour  must  be  ai)preciated  by  all,  it  was  unfortunately  llnir 


THK   "I'nLAlIIS       IN    THK    I'AOK. 


•2H^ 


ii  T,  uressiblo  cdnsciousiicss  tliiit   thcro  was  no  oi)oii  wator  iiroimd   tlip 
vi-^cl;  and  from  the   niast-licad  none  could  l)e  seen  excvjtt  occasional 


pi 


]Hii)ls.     Altlioucfli  the  "  Polaris  "  improved  ever}' i»ossil)lt     cliaiici'  and 
(ilKiiiiig,  she  made  but   twelve  miles  in  four  and  three  '.|uarler  houi's; 


i 

fy 

' 

it 

1 

i 


i  'J 


if, 


284 


AIHERICAN   EXPLORATIONS    IN   TIIK   ICE   ZONES. 


fi'l ;  I 


■'■I  '.:  i 


I!  ilH' 


onl}' three  of  which  were  to  the  north.  Her  hii^fhest  advance  iqiiM, us 
to  be  sal'ely  recorded  at  &2°  IG',*  about  two  hundriid  miles  iKirili  ul 
Kane's  liighest,  and  lit'ty  miles  above  that  reached  by  Dr.  Hayes. 

In  the  lirst  lour  days  of  September  the  "Polaris"  drifted  t(,  il,,. 
south,  a  distance  of  about  forty-eight  miles  in  a  direct  line.  On  il,,. 
1st,  the  ice  driven  by  the  wind  jjressea  upon  the  ship  so  closelv  that 
every  man  was  ordered  to  houl  himself  in  readiness  to  leave  at  an 
instant's  notice;  fears  were  entertained  that  damage  would  be  doiu. 
to  the  propeller,  the  hoisting  a[)paratus  for  which  was  placed  in  |i(,si- 
tion ;  unsuccessful  attempts  were  made  to  unship  the  rudder.  At 
7  r.M.  a  huge  berg  i)iled  uj)  masses  of  ice  before  the  vessel  and  gatlicicd 
the  smaller  pieces  about  it;  the  hawsers  bent  to  the  ice-anchors  in 
the  lloe  parted,  and  the  ship  heeled  over.  Twenty  feet  thicknos 
was  pressing  uj)on  her  creaking  timbers  with  ice  piled  up  to  the  bul- 
warks; stores  and  provisions  were  placed  on  the  deck,  and  prt-jjaia- 
tions  made   for  i)reserving  life;  but,  two  hours  afterwards  the  shiji 

*  It  seems  best  to  present  here  the  language 'of  Admiral  Uavis,  on  this  interesting 
point  of  the  history.  On  page 84  of  the  "Narrative  of  the  Xorth  Polar  Expedition."  lie 
says,  "It  is  impossible  to  tell  the  precise  latitude  which  the  '  Polaris'  had  attaiiii'd  wlun 
at  her  highest  northing.  Eighteen  hours  before,  her  position  had  been  accurately  deier- 
niined;  from  that  point  her  place  was  carried  forward  by  dead  reckuiung.  Two  separaic 
log-books  were  kept,  in  which  the  coiu'ses  and' distances  were  correctly  entered;  two  i)iitfnt 
logs  wore  used  for  the  latter.  Messrs.  Bessels,  Bryan,  and  Meyer,  composing  the  scieiitilio 
corps,  had  kept  regular  watch  from  the  departure  of  the  ship  from  Tessuissak  up  to  the 
time  wlum  her  progress  was  arrested.  They  also  kept  a  journal,  in  which  were  eiitereil 
the  courses,  and  the  distances  (determined  by  one  of  the  separate  patent  logs);  and  tlii.- 
was  entirely  independent  of  the  ship's  log-book  kept  by  the  mate.  No  better  metlioil 
could  have  been  adopted  for  securing  all  the  accuracy  possible  imder  the  circumstances: 
yet  the  difficulties  and  interruptions  in  polar  navigation  are  so  unceasing  and  violent  thai 
it  is  impossible  to  speak  of  results  like  these  as  being  anything  more  than  approximations 
to  the  truth. 

Again,  on  page  96,  speaking  of  the  ship's  position  after  the  renewed  attempt  to  umk 
nortlnvard  he  says:  "This  advance  placed  the  ship  in  lat.  82°  10' N.;  a  result  deihuv,! 
from  observations  obtained  independently  of  those  which  had  given  her  position  at  (1  a.m. 
of  August  oO.  The  latter  was  deternnned  by  dead  reckoning  from  noon  of  the  preeedinL' 
day;  the  former  started  from  the  latitude  of  the  southern  entrance  of  liepulse  llailmi; 
determined  by  Mr.  Meyer,  by  a  meridian  sub-polar  observation  on  June 30  of  the  next  y.  ar. 
This  reckoning  made  up  from  this  subsecjuent  observation,  takes  into  account  the  eouiM- 
and  distances  only  without  allowance  for  current  or  drift.  Where  so  many  <listmliin^ 
causes  existed,  the  effect  of  which  cannot  now  be  estimated,  the  deteriuination  nuist  be 
received  as  approximate  only.  . 


AT    ANCIHU:. 


285 


lii^rhtL'd.     Oil  the  2il  all  hands  were  hnsy  from  2  p.m.  till  midnight  in 
tiai;>lt'i'i'i"K  ^'"  sleds  to  the  iloe  snnicient  stores  and  coal  tf)  supply  the 


y. 


t: 

c 


wants  of  the  ship's  company  during  the  winter.     On  the  3d  the  wind 
blurted  to  the  southeast  bringing  with  it  much  snow,  but  also  the  ap- 


.'1, 


:« I 


!■] 


1^   ■» 


I     ! 


'Js»i 


AMKKICAN    KXI'LOIIATIONS    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZoNKS. 


l»c'iiriUH.'0  when  tliis  luid  clfiired  (iff,  of  iiidiciitioiis  tliat  tlic  ico  w  uM 
s(M»ii  ttpt'ii  Jiiid  _!4iv('  aiiotliLT  chance  to  secure  a  sate  ant'hora^e  ;  un  il,,. 
4tli,  the  ice  was  eh'aied  I'roin  the  prctpeUer  well,  tiie  screw  slii|  |„i|. 
the  stores  ai^aiii  hrctiight  back  iVi)ni  the  lloe,  and  the  ship  IIiumimIi 
a  [lassaj^-e  ojieiied  by  the  drivin<^  northeast  wind  freed  liersell"  IVniu  i],,. 
ice.  Jiy  luiihiii^ht  slie  was  close  in  upon  the  eastern  shore,  and  hri 
anchor  was  droj)]ied  in  ten  lathoins  of  water.  This  was  to  \tr  lap 
position  for  many  weary  months. 


wv 


Till-:  IIAIIHOU. 

The  liarbor  at  hist  found  was  no  snug  ancliorage,  but  was  insidr  of 
the  line  of  the  main  current  and  somewhat  sheltered  by  a  bold  caiicin  a 
distance  of  about  four  miles  nortli  and  west  of  the  shi[)'s  place,  —  a  (Mpc 
named  by  Hall  after  on(>  of  his  lirst  benefactors  in  Ciin-innati,  ("oldiid 
.lames  Lupton.  ^\  hug(^  iceberg  gave  additional  and  lasting  security.  Its 
dimensions,  measured  b}'  Hermann  Siemens,  were:  length  four  hiiiKlivil 
and  fiftv  feet,  breadtli  thre(>  liuudred  feet,  and  heit'lit  aJKVv!  the  wniii' 
sixty  feet;  under  the  usual  estimate  for  bcMgs,  this  height  being  eomitt'd 
as  one  third  of  the  whole  structure,  its  foundation  of  one  hundre(|  iind 
twenty  feet  seemed  promising  of  stability,  and  so  proved  even  to  the 
saving  of  the  ship.  Hall  at  once  named  it  Providence  Berg,  lie  hail 
now  at  liiast  a  strong  security  from  being  drifted  further  southward, 
and  from  being  thus  again  imprisoned,  or  his  ship  crushed.  Having 
submitted  to  the  decision  reached  by  a  second  consultation  that  :iiiy 
further  northward  advance  was  impossible,  he  promptly  acknowledyrd 
the  ]irovidential  preservation  which  liad  been  given  and  the  siuccssriil 
advance  secured,  and  encouraged  his  officers  and  crew  with  the  Iiojh.- 
in  which  he  felt  himsidf  justilied  in  indulging  that  by  sledge  jouiin  y.s 
to  the  north  the  great  objects  of  the  voyage  could  be  entered  iiiioii. 
First  of  all  he  would  secure  as  far  as  possible  present  safety  and  rest 
for  (d'licers  and  crew.  A  large  (juantity  of  stores  and  ])rovisions  were 
landed  and  tludr  amount  still  further  increased  on  the  »Ith.  on  wliir'n 
di'v  a  search  for  a  better  harbor  was  unsuccessful.  For  this  landiiiu 
two  whaleboats  with  planks  laid  across  were   employed  and  the  slmrt 


4 


k  <l 


1  ( 


288 


AMEUICAN    KXTLOUATIONS    IN   THE    ICK   ZONES. 


*S' 


II 


11 


"z) 


;i: 


I 


^il 


I      i 

'i     i*l 


M: 


1 


trips  to  the  shore  nipidly  nmilo.  When  the  sun  came  out  l»ii.;lit, 
observiitioiis  of  the  ultitude  guve  the  terinimition  of  the  position  to 
be  81"  37'. 

The  hiiul  us  seen  froiu  the  ship  consisted  of  broken  series  of  cli  va- 
tions  and  depressions  with  oeeusional  spurs,  the  mountain  i inputs 
varying  in  direcl.:'»n  from  south  to  east,  and  in  elevation  from  uin,. 
bundled  to  one  thousand  four  hunched  feet,  several  prominent  |.i,iks 
showing  themselves  in  the  furthest  range.  Their  argiihieeous  s(  hisi 
had  s[)r('ad  its  ddbris  over  large  surfaces,  but  to  no  depth;  uui  ih,. 
slightest  trace  of  vegetation  being  found  except  a  few  lichens.  Hk. 
debris  from  ('ape  Lupton  reacihed  almost  to  the  seashore,  and  over  it 
boulders  were  scattered  in  every  direction.  In  some  few  places  niai 
the  fresh-water  lakes  and  the  water-courses,  an  alluvium  had  Imih 
formed  which,  enriched  by  the  birds  in  great  numbers,  formed  garden 
spots  in  the  narrow  j)lain  between  the  seashore  and  the  ice-foot.  On 
this  plain  the  flora  of  the  brief  Arctic  sunnner  appeared. 

Among  the  remains  of  the  sumnier  tenting-places  of  Eskimos,  jilaiu 
indications  were  found  that  a  large  l)arty  had  passiid  part  of  a  smmiicr 
there.  The  remains  consisted  as  usual  of  the  stones  in  circles,  the  si  al- 
skin  tents  which  the.se  stones  had  kept  in  position  having  been  taken 
down  and  carried  away. 

After  this  discovery  of  the  traces  of  Eskimo  life  at  this  jioint.  Hall 
and  the  members  of  the  Scientific  Corps  set  out  for  the  sunnnit  ol'  (ape 
Lupton  to  begin  the  survey  of  the  surrounding  coasts,  and  ascertain  the 
state  of  the  ice  in  Robeson's  Strait;  the  party  being  provided  witii  a 
small  Casella  theodolite,  a  pocket  aneroid  barometer,  and  a  jjockct  pris- 
matic compass.  At  the  close  of  a  fatiguing  walk  over  the  plain,  covered 
in  some  places  with  deep  snow,  in  others  with  massive  boulders,  tlicy 
came  to  the  deep  ravine  which  separates  the  cape  from  a  higli  and 
steep  hill  which  had  received  the  name  of  Observatory  Bluff,  and  weie 
here  brought  to  a  stand  as  to  the  readiest  way  of  climbing  the  caiic. 
The  ravine  seemed  the  easier  of  ascent,  and  the  side  of  the  cape  facing- 
the  ship,  very  difficult.  But  the  majority  of  the  party,  b}--  passing  up  a 
narrow  gorge  filled  with  fresh  snow,  succeeded  in  reaching  the  summit. 
an  elevation  of  more  than  one  thousand  three  hundred  feet.  Hall  Ixing 


WINTKU   gl'AUTKItS,  hAT.  «P  M/  N. 


•J81) 


the  for(MiioHt.  Willi  tlu!  usiiiil  t'X|H'ri<'iu'«'  ot'  Arctic  trsivcUcrs,  tlifv 
I'liiiinl  llicir  first  elevation,  wIkmi  ^Miii('(|,  tu  lie  not  the  end  of  tlirir 
i,,iiiiit'y,  Imt  only  tlu;  means  (»t"  showing  to  tlieni  a  second  or  third  suni- 
iiiii.  l''roni  the  true;  highest  j)oint  at  last  clindied,  the  western  coast 
was  MTV  distinctly  seen  as  far  as  the  Cape  Union  of  Dr.  Hayes,  and 
l)(\nii(l  that  cape,  three  otluir  peaks.  'I'he  sight  of  the  eastt'rn  coast 
was  cut  off  hy  a  projecting  caix'.  'I'he  (diannel  as  far  as  could  he  seen 
was  lillcd  with  clos(dy  juicked  ice,  with  no  water  cloud. 

Much  snow  now  began  to  fall  almost  daily,  and  the  ice  ra|)idly 
iiicivascd  in  thickness;  it  was  dillicidt  t(t  kiH!j>  open  the  channel 
lutwfcn  the  ship  and  the  short;.  An  op(!ning  heing  made  through 
the  iVo/.en  slush  the  Observatory  was  taken  over,  s(!ctiou  hy  sec- 
tidu.  Set  up  without  the  use  of  iron,  it  was  available  for  magnetic 
(tliscrvations. 

From  altitudes  of  the  sun  taken  in  the  intervals  between  i»assing 
clouds,  IFall  deduced  01"  44'\V.as  the  longitude  of  his  winter  (juarters. 
'I'licsc  wer(!  now  improved  by  changes  whicih  provided  for  the  ijcrthing 
(if  tlic  whole  crew  below  deck,  and  for  economy  in  fuel.  'J'o  provide 
to  tlic  utmost  for  the  cond'ort  of  the  shi[)'s  com]iany,  he  gave  up  his 
(iwii  state-room.  On  shore  a  iiouse  was  built  for  tin;  necessary  entcr- 
taiiiiiicnts  of  the  long  Ar(!tic  winter  now  cai-ly  setting  in.  for  the  <lay 
was  becoming  sharply  defined ;  twilight  even  was  growing  faint.  The 
Kskiiiios,  Hans  and  Joe,  luid  begun  their  successfid  captures  of  the  seal 
iiiid  of  some  of  tlie  little  game  which  had  not  yet  gone  south  ;  they  had 
also  seen  ti'aces  of  musk-oxen.  In  this  last  lu'ws  Hall  had  promise  of 
iVcsJi  meat,  of  the  value  of  whitdi  as  a  defence  against  scurvy  lu;  was 
Well  aware.  'I'he  weight  (d*  on(!  of  these  animals,  killed  before  the  close 
of  Sc)itciid)er,  was  nearly  four  hundred  ixumds.  Ni'iie  had  ever  been 
met  with  by  the  previous  Hxpeditions  on  the  west  coast  of  (ircenland, 
;iltliou''li  found  in  large  numbers  on  the  eastern  coast,  and  on  the  maiu- 


aiiil  o 


ftl 


le  continents. 


Mr.  iiryan  and   Mr.  ^leyer  were  frc(juently  engaged  in  surveys  of 


the  l)av  and  its  surroundinu's ;  one  ot  their  excursions 


f  th 


for  tl 


us  |»urpose 


involving  much  hardshii).     The   two  wore   the  ordinary  native    light 
foot-gear;   but  Mauch,  who  accompanied  them,  wore  heavy  cow-hide 


!  ( 


'  I 


i'1l! 


1             '        !    1     , 

■y 


I 


(•  f 


1^ 


11? 


ill 


be 


19 


llllill'l 

mi 


m 


'i, 
I 

7. 
■r. 


mmif  ' 


m 


III, 

Jl 


m 

i,! 


mA 


liili 


INSTIir<TI(>NS    TO    IUI»IN(iT(>N.  liHl 

l„i(ii>.  w  lii<"li  ciM'iimhcrctl  liis  walk,  uiid  (»c('iisi(iiK'il  tlin;t' (liui^oimis  I'alls 
ilii.iii'^h  the  ice  lissiircs  iiidi  tin-  sea.  Ilryaii  and  M«'}('r  rcj^aiiitd  tin- 
,|ii|,  .liter  iniiliii<^'lit  in  a  state  of  eoniiilete  exiianstion,  and  Mani-li's  WUi 
was  .^aveil  (inly  l»v  a  seaicli   made  l>y  Mnitnn  an*l  Siemens,  wlm  I'lmnd 

liiiii  ,iliiii>st  nn'uiiMiniis. 

SIJ'.IXIK     .KHIJNKV     l'i;n|'(»si:i). 

At  iii(H"nin«f  prayers,  ( )et(»iter  10,  ('apt.  Hall  annouiieed  liis  inten- 
tiiiii  nl'startinj^  that  day  U|ion  a  sledge  trip,  the  oWjeet  (d"  which  was  to 
ivci'iiin'itie  and  select  the  best  ruiite  fur  his  sprinij  journey  toward  the 
I'ldc  lie  had  hoped  to  make  this  exandnation  heforo  the  close  of  the 
hifviiiiis  month,  and   was  delaye(l  (»idy  liy  tlu!  snow  heinj^  not   ilccp 


■lii]||'_;li  lor  s 


led-t 


ravel  over  the  plain,  and  l>y  the  [ireparalions  ncci 


h'd 


I'nr  the  jonnu'V,  und  for  the  new  dangers  which  threatened  the  ship, 
sptcinhi-r -7,  Jl  severe  gale  from  the  southwest  hud  driven  the  pack 
ill.  and  fornu'd  large  lunnmocks  on  her  sides,  and  on  the  liHth.  when 
his  pic|)arations  had  been  made  for  leaving,  the  high  tide  in  connection 
with  a  hi'ccze  IVom  the  same  ([iiartcr,  again  piled  n|t  the  ici'  in  all  man- 


ner o 


f  si 


lapes. 


It  1 


)ecame  neeessarv  to  veer  the  cable.  aiK 


d  it 


\\\\> 


iium 


when  lla-  jiressnre  ceased,  that  the  berg  had  been  forced  in  towards  tla; 
vhdie  one  hundred  yards,  and  tlu'  shij)  fifty  yards.  Had  she  not  been 
siieeiallv  fitted  for  arctic  service  bv  the  strengthening  given  befoi(; 
leaving  the  United  States,  she  must  have  been  crushed.  During  the 
two  (lays  which  followed,  mucli  snow  fell,  the  wind  shifted  to  the  iKtrtli, 
and  an  (tpeii  channel  was  formed  between  the  loose  pack  of  the  Strait 
and  the  floe  at  a  distance  from  the  vessel  of  about  three-fourths  of  a 
mile.     The  ship  being  safe,  and  some  necessary  arrangements  for  the 


lit  her  preservation  oi  the   stores  and  the  coiiuort  ol  his  men  having 
made,  Hall  was  readv  to  start  nortli.     To  the  Sailinu'-mar^ter  he 


lieeii 


;^iive  s])eciHc  instructions  substantially  as  follows:  — 

First,  tV)r  the  conduct  of  the  shi[).  if  she  should  remain  safe  in  her 
winter  position,  of  which  he  "felt  almost  certain,"  that  she  should  be 
hanked  u[)  with  snow-blocks  cut  from  the  drift  under  the  lee  of  the 
neighboring  hill,  and  have  her  housing  ]»ut  up;  that  the  watch  shuuld 
be  continued  until  the  coi>k  commenced  his  mornin«''  work  ;  that  the 


: 

.  — _^^^^J^&B 

'  w^^^^^^Hb 

1 
* 

Hi 

i 

^^H 1 

^^^^^H  1 

:. 

i^^^^^^H 

'' 

I^^^^^^H 

! 

Efl^^^^^^B 

^^^^^1 

i 

^^^^^^H 

I^^^B 

I^^^^^^^H 

■ 

.  'jfij  1 1 .  1 1 

* 

» '1  t 


292 


AMEKICAN  EXPLORATIONS    IN  THE   ICE  ZONES. 


•i     .V 


Js. 


most  ciiveful  economy  should  be  practised  in  the  consumi)tion  of  ci,;,] 
no  more  being  used  than  would  keep  the  thermometer  fore  ami  all 
at  oO"  with  a  very  small  fire  only  througii  the  night,  and  caiuli,.- 
light  nnly  after  9  r.  m.,  and  that  the  remainder  of  the  stores  and 
provisions  should  be  placed  in  complete  order  on  the  plain  1)\  ili,, 
observatory. 

But  under  the  possible  contingencj^  of  the  "Polaris"  being  ihivcn 
from  her  position,  he  wrote:  "A  full  storm  from  the  south  can  scml 
the  pack  of  the  Strait  upon  the  land-pack  upon  which  we  are,  and  in  a 
few  moments  cast  the  'Polaris'  high  and  dry  upon  the  land:  m.  a 
storm  from  the  North  might  drive  the  ice  out  of  Thank  God  IIarl)i)r 
and  tlie  '  Polaris '  with  it ;  the  spring  tides  must,  therefore,  be  watclud 
with  great  vigilance,  especially  during  any  gale  or  storm.  If  tln' 
'Polaris'  should  drift  out,  she  must,  if  possible,  be  brought  back  to  Iut 
former  position ;  but  should  she  be  driven  into  the  moving  pack-ice  (if 
the  Strait,  and  there  become  beset  and  unable  to  get  released, then,  uiitnr- 
tunately,  the  vessel  and  all  on  board  would  goto  the  soutliwest,  driftinn; 
with  the  pack,  —  God  only  knowing  where  and  when  the  ship's  company 
would  find  means  to  esca[)e.  It  might  in  this  case  be  that  such  a  drilr 
movement  would  occur  as  in  the  case  of  the  United  States  Grinncll 
Expedition  of  1851-52,  and  of  the  '  Fox  "  under  McClintock  in  1857-1"^ : 
but  wlienever  the  'Polaris'  should  get  released,  if  anywhere  between 
Cape  Alexander  and  Ca[)e  York,  or  between  the  latter  and  the  Aretit 
Circle,  she  might  then  make  her  way  to  Godhavn,  Disco  Island,  and. 
if  she  should  remain  seaworthy,  be  filled  up  with  coal,  stores,  ami 
provisions,  and  next  fall  (1872)  steam  hack  to  this  jjlaoe.  If  tlie  vessel 
should  become  a  wreck  or  disabled  from  the  imminent  exi^osurc  ainl 
dangers  of  such  an  ice-drift  as  referred  to,  then  all  possil)le  use  of  ilic 
best  judgment  must  be  brouglit  into  play  for  the  preservation  of  tlu' 
lives  of  all  belonging  to  the  Expedition." 

"You  will,  at  your  earliest  moment  of  escape,  acipiaint  the  (inv- 
ernnicnt  of  the  United  States  with  the  whole  of  the  circumstances:  ami 
should  one  of  those  circumstances  be  the  loss  of  the  'I'olaris,'  I,  am! 
my  small  party  that  is  about  to  accompany  me  on  the  proposed  sledge 
journey,  will  remain   here  to   make  discoveries   to  the  North  Pule, 


HALL  S    LAST    SLKDGE   JOUIINEY. 


293 


usiiiu'  Tliank  God  Harbor  as  our  liciuLiiuirtins,  and  all  tho  tiinc  feel 
, ,.it;iiii  that  our  country  would  lose  no  time  in  seiuling  us  aid  in  earry- 
iiio-  (Hit  the  <jfr(nit  object  of  the  i)resent  Ex[)edition." 

Caiitain  Hall  had  selected  Mate  Chester,  Joe,  and  Hans  to  accom- 
iinnv  him.  At  the  start  at  1.  WSl.  it  rcc|uired  the  half  of  sonic  nf  the 
ficw  to  assist  the  dogs  to  pull  the  heavily  loaded  sled,  Avhich  niadr  Init 
live  miles  before  the  party  Avent  into  their  first  igloo.  Hans  rciurncd 
tor  a  second  sled  and  more  dogs;  Hall  had  set  out  with  but  twelve. 
Liaving  the  igloo  on  the  12th,  he  travelled  over  the  plain  o  the  noith- 
easl,  keeping  along  the  foot  of  the  mountain  range;  he  thought  that 
this  |ilaiu  was  once  a  river-bed.  At  1.30  J',  ^r.  of  the  13th  lie  touud  an 
icv  liver,  the  course  of  which  was  in  the  direction  of  the  journey,  and 
travelled  with  ease  over  its  smooth  surface,  encamping  on  it  for  the 
iii*4iit.  Fresh  water  was  obtained  by  Hans  by  cutting  tlir  uigh  tlic  ice. 
On  a  walk  the  next  day  along  this  river,  and  at  a  little  distance  inland, 
t(i  see  if  nmch  cattle  were  to  be  found.  Hall  was  disappointed  in  this, 
which  had  been  one  of  the  chief  expectations  ])rompting  this  trip. 
Kxccpt  a  few  lichens,  he  found  here  no  signs  of  vegetation,  nothing  to 
tempt  the  animals;  but  he  thought  they  might  be  met  with  on  an 
extensive  plain  which  showed  itself  at  some  distance. 

On  the  18th  he  walked  to  the  top  of  a  high  cape,  finding  on  the  first 
elevation  ascended  a  boulder  twelve  feet  high,  covered  with  lichens. 
Further  on,  different  si)ecies  of  llowering  i)lants  and  grasses  were  seen 
up  to  the  mountain's  to[).  Frcnu  the  sununit,  the  land  on  the  west  side 
of  the  chaiuiel  appeared  to  run  to  the  north  and  east  until  it  ended  in 
a  cape  nearly  due  north,  turning  then  abruptly  to  the  west.  The  east 
cuast  ran  to  the  nortiieast  and  disappeared  on  turning  to  the  east  at  a 
ilistance  of  ten  or  twelve  miles.  Across  the  straits,  far  away  to  the 
north  and  east,  a  cloiul  was  seen,  but  Hall  could  not  determine  whether  it 
was  a  water-cloud  or  the  loom  of  the  land.  After  spending  some  time 
in  survcving  and  examining  the  surrounding  country,  and  making  an 
unsuccessful  endeavor  to  round  the  cape,  he  determined  to  return,  and 
on  the  21st  began  to  retrace  his  steps.  The  day,  like  most  all  of  the 
others  during  this  sledge  journey,  was  so  foggy  as  to  make  it  (|uite 


1- •■' 


I 


i 


liili 


u 


m^ 


!■  5 


t 

,1! 

■1' 

;  J 

-  : 

1 

I  \ 

i'"' 

f 

:  ,;■'    'P 

}    1  ■ 
i    1 

•p 

294 


AAFEHICAN    EXPLOHATrONS    IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


iiiipossihlo  to  take  good  sights  ;  it  would  have  rendcM-ed  useless  miv 
tiiiu'  spent  huuting  musk  cuttle.  On  the  24th  he  sighted  the  masts  df 
the  >•  I'oluris." 

hall's  last  dispatch. 

( )ii  the  20th  he  had  deposited  in  a  eaini,  of  whieh  tlie  cut  is  a  literal 
traiiscri])t  from  the  sketch  in  his  notes,  a  dispatch  to  the  Se(  retail 
of  the  Navy,  whieh  is  presented  below  in  full,  as  the  last  ever  reecivcd 
from  fir  i)re  'ired  b}^  the  unfortunate  explorer.  Conununicatiiiy-  it. 
he   said : 

•'Chester  at  my  suggestion  took  one  of  the  boards  of  the  twenty- 
eight  jiound  wooden  box,  that  I  ordered  to  be  taken  apart  last  evtiiing 


TJ 


PI iW'^'^m>mMmm 


TUK  CAHtN. 

n.  tmriod  cyliiulor;  C,  condensed  niilk-cunistcr,  filled  with  saiidi  I),  two  pound  meat-can;  E,  small  watcr-trcncli ; 
A.  I  aim.    10  F.  K.    This  stone  of  slate  placed  at  A  in  the  ground,  face  up,  close  to  the  one  above,  which  is  vertical. 

Knii  1111(1      J  Cape  Hri'voort  (^y.  50   E?) 

iiulistiuot     J     Sixtli  eiicampiueiit  distant  43  of 

light.         '  my  iiioiisuros.    (N.  15  K.) 


m 


I  ■ 


(a  couple  of  pounds  of  wliich  we  used  last  night  in  making  scouse  (lob- 
scouse  or  olio),  and  six  (piarts  of  extra  water),  and  with  his  knife,  cut 
in  bold  letters,  '10  F.  E.'  (feet  east),  and  this  and  thirteen  other  piccfs 
of  tliat  box  were  scattered  about  the  cairn.  It  was  not  without  ditli- 
culty  that  we  found  stones  of  sufficient  size  and  number  with  which  to 
build  tills  small  pillar.  Joe  dug  the  hollow  in  Avliich  to  dejiosit  tlic 
copper  cylinder.  Tliis  cylinder  was  one  of  those  specially  (lesi«;ii('i| 
for  deposits,  and  was  rendered  air  and  water  tight  by  being  scaliil 
with  Avhite  bees-wax;  at  the  bottom  I  ])laced  a  small  piece  of  Ijnaril. 
then  on  either  side  two  other  pieces;  and,  last,  on  the  top,  aiidtlici : 
then  we  covered  the  same  over  with  three  inches  of  shingle  of  tlic 
plain."' 


.,— ^ 


HALLS   LAST   DlSl'ATCH. 

"i"  e  following  is  the  clis[);itcli:  — 


295 


"  Sixth  .Sxow-IIoi'sk  Enc.vmpmkxt,  Cwv.  Bisf.voort, 

*' Norlh-sitle  cntniuce  to  Ncwiiiau's  l>uy,  Oct.  20,  1S71. 

»7'm  f/ie  Honorable  SecreUinj  of  the  U.  S.  yatu/,  Gkouhk  M.  Uouksox. 

••  .Myself  and  party,  consisting  of  Mr.  Chester,  first-mate  ;  my  Eskimo, 
Jiic,  and  Greenland  Eskimo,  Hans,  left  the  ship  in  winter  (j^uarters. 
Thank  God  Harbor,  hit.  Hl°  88'  North,  h)n.  Gl°  4-4'  West  at  meridian  of 
Octdlx'r  10th,  on  a  jnnrney  by  two  sledges,  drawn  by  fonrteen  dogs,  to 
(li.^cdver,  if  possible,  a  feasible  route  inland  for  my  sledge  journey  next 
s])rii),i;'  to  reach  the  North  Pole,  jjurposing  to  adopt  such  a  route,  if 
foiiml  better  than  a  route  over  the  old  Hoes  and  huinnioeks  of  the 
strait  which  I  have  denominated  Robeson's  Strait,  after  the  honorable 
Secretary  of  the  United  States  Navy. 

••  AVe  arrived  on  the  evening  of  October  17,  having  discovered  a  lake 
and  a  river  on  our  way;  the  latter,  our  route,  a  most  serpentine  one, 
which  led  us  on  to  this  bay  fifteen  minutes  (miles)  distant  from  here 
sniiihward  and  eastward. 

••From  the  top  of  an  iceberg,  near  the  mouth  of  said  river,  we  could 
si'f  that  this  bay,  which  I  have  named  after  Rev.  Dr.  Newman,  extended 
to  tlic  liigh  land  eastward  and  southward  of  that  position  about  fifteen 
miles,  making  the  extent  of  Newman's  Ba}',  from  its  headland  or  cape, 
full  tliirty  miles. 

"The  south  cape  is  high,  bold,  and  a  noble  headland.  I  have  named 
it  Sumner  Headland,  after  Hon.  Charles  Sunnier,  the  orator  and  U.  S. 
Senator;  and  the  north  ca|)e,  IJrevocn't  Cape,  after  J.  Carson  Brevoort, 
a  .strong  friend  to  Arctic  discoveries. 

"On  arriving  here  we  found  the  mouth  of  Newman's  Bay  open 
water,  having  numerous  seals  in  it,  this  oi)en  water  making  close  both 
til  Sumner  Headland  and  Cape  lirevoort,  and  the  ice  of  Robeson's 
Strait  on  the  move,  thus  debarring  all  possible  chance  of  extentling  our 
jiuii'iiey  on  the  ice  up  the  S  rait. 

"The  mountainous  land  (none  other  about  here)  will  not  admit  of 
"Uf  jnurneying  further  north;  and  as  the  time  of  our  expected  altsence 
was   understood   to   be  for  two   weeks,   we   commence   our    return   to- 


iil 


•ill 


.  n 


n^l 


^f  it 


mm 


«  ,  -i 


M 


•J!  1(5 


.\Mi;i;i('\N   I'Ai'LouAi'ioNs  IN    rill';  ici',  /om'.m. 


moiiow   iiKtriiiiig.      To-iliiy    \\c   iiic  sdu  in  lioiind    In    (liis  our  si\i! 
riiiii|iiiiiMit. 


I'll 


l"'ioiii  (';i|i('  nrcvttorl.  we  r:\ii   sec   liiixl   cxIcMdiiii;'  dii    llic  \\i  ,|     |,|, 


of  llic  Stiiiit  III    ilic   iHUlli  •_'-"  W'l'sl,  iiikI   (listiMicc  iiliniil  seven 
llnis  iniikiii'''  liiini  \\»'  discoNcr  as  I'ar  as  lal.  S;l'  ."»    N<»rlli. 


\    III  lies. 


There    is   a|i|>earanee   of  lainl    I'arlh'.r  innlli,  jiikI   e\leniliii;< 


lllliK 


easterly  tlian  what  I  lniV(>  jnst  iniled.  Inil  a.  jiemdiar  tlaik  iiiinlMis  i'IhkI 
lianas  over  wlia't  seems  inav  Ite  land,  and  |nevenls  my  makiiii;  i  lull 
detei'inination. 


AiiLinsl    ;!(•,   tlie   '  I'dlaiis '  made   lier  <'realesl    iiorlliiiiL!',  lal .  S: 


<    -till 


Ni'illi  ;   Inu  ailei'  several    allem|tls  lo  _t;'el  lier  I'ai'llier  nnilli,  slie  I 


M'i;niic 


liesel.    w  lien    we    w 


•re   drifled   down    lo   aliont    lal.   Si"  ;;o'.      \\'| 


leli    nil 


openini;'  oeenned,  we  sleaiiied  mil  ol"  llie  pack  and  ma<le  liailioi  Si|i 
lemln  I'  ;>.  where  liie  '  I'olaiis  "  is  (corner  ol"  mannseript  heie  IhiumiI 
oil  ).  rp  lo  the  lime  I  and  my  |>arly  lel'l.  Ihe  r;lii|)  all  have  lieen  ucll. 
and  eonlinne  wilh  lii!_;'h  hopes  ol"  aeetnnplishiiit;' oiir  ni'ealniission. 

"We  tind  ihis  a  nuieh  warmer  eoimlry  Ihan  we  expected.  I'"iiiiii 
('ap(>  AlexandiM'.  the  inounlaiiis  on  eilhei'  side  of  Iho  luMinedy  ('liamicl 
:ind  iuihcson's  Strait,  we  round   entifelv  l>are  ol"  snow  and  ice,  wii 


I  I  ill' 


e\cei>tion  ol"  a  n'lacicr  that  wi>  saw  covei-iiiL;',  aiiont  hit.  Sd"  ;')()',  easi  siiic 
the  Strait,  and  extendin!;"  in  an  east-noftheasl  direction  as  lar  as  can  \v 
seen  Irom  the  moniitaiiis  by  I'olaris  \\.\\ . 

'*  \N'e  have  found  that  tlh<  counlry  ahonnds  with  life';  seals,  L;ainr. 
ijoese,  diii'ks.  musk-cat  lh>,  rahl'its,  wolves,  foxes,  l)ears,  parti  id^vs, 
Icmuiinu's,  i>te.  Our  sealers  \\a\c  shot  two  seals  in  the  open  water 
while  at  this  tMU'am|)ment.     Our  loni;'  .\rctic  ni;;lit  commeiuH'd  ( )cl 


ohcr 


\.\,  1 


lavine- seen   only  the   upjier  limh  ol    the   sun   aliove    the   glacier  ,i 


nuMidian  Oct(d)i>r  1 'J. 

"This  dispati'h  to  the  S(>cretavy  of  the  Navy  I  linislicd  this  nioiiicni. 
S.il:>  P.M.,  liavine-  written  it  in  ink  in  our  sjiow  Init,  the  iheriiioiiii'iri' 
outside     -  7'\       Y(>sti'rtlay.  all  day  tlu>  thenuonu'tcr  —  20"  lo  "J)!'. 

"Copy  o['   dispatch    placoil   in   jiillar    l"5rev()()rt    Capi',   Octol 


)cr   1\ 


1S71, 


'     •  TliP  oritfiiiul  draft  of  this  (lisiiatch  was  liroiiiiht  to  Washington  by  Eskimo  .hx',  who 
had  carofiilly  picsiTvoil  it  in  Hall's  writiug-di'sk,  wliich  he  had  lUckcd  \'p  on  the  icf  alter 


\\r:;|    ,1,1,. 

'iil.\   miles, 
iliii!'    iiHii,' 

lIlllS  cloinl 

,iiiu-  ;i    lull 


'ills,  ^'iiini'. 
i;iftri(li;vs, 

It'll  wahT 
(I  OcIoImt 

^'lacier  ,il 

s  inoiiH'iil. 
riiKitiK'ii  r 


<'AI'TAIN     MAM,    I'A  KAI,V/KI», 


2!»7 


\i  '.i.IOa.m.  Ill'  i'niii|ilt'li'(|  till'  I'iiini  iiiMJ  (Ii'|i<isiti'i|  lilt  •JiM'iiiiH-iit, 
'I'll,'  iiMiiiiiiiii'iil,  (\\i»  I'ci'l  hi^li  and  Iwn  ami  mii'  hall'  I'lcl  al  IIh  liasr,  \h 
,111  ihc  liiuw  (»r   till'   sciMiiil  jilaili   I'lKiii   llic  Ht  II,  alitiiil    (illy  Ictt   alinvr  ili- 


■\i' 


m.A'I'll    nl'    CAI'TAIN    MAM, 


i;,!  luiiiii).;'  iVdiii  lilt'  slftl^f  iiiiinirv,  ('a|itaiii  Mall  s|ii|i|)(!t|  a  r<'W 
iiMiiiMiils  Id  foil  vnsf  willi  |)r.  Iicsst'ls  al  llic  Oltsfrvatuiv ,  ami  lufii 
Willi  iiiiiiifiliatfl  V  nil  liiianl  llif  '' i'lir  i  is,"  sliaKinj^'  liamis  svilli  llinsi' 
wliiiiii  lie  iii;'l,  ami  spfakiiit;'  Vfi'V  ciicdiiia^^iii;^! v  "•!'  Ihf  |)it)S|ifi',ls  nl'  (lit; 
,\|i((lil  inn  ;  aWiliii;^  thai  he  t',\|»ffiiM|  in  a  r,oii|)li!  til'  ihiys  Id  slart  ii|)(iii 
;iniil  her  slciluc  iniirncy.  ( )ii  i|  linkin;^'  a.  cup  ol'  fdirrr  liidiiMhi  Id  him 
li\  ill,'  slrwaid  III'  was  iiiiniriliali'l v  lakni  with  vidlful  vdiiiiliii;^  anil 
nii'liiiiL;'   anil    Wfiil    In    lifil.      Dr.    Urssrls,   itn    i-xaininal  inn,    I'Xpirssi'il 


il    I'rais  thai   till'  sifkiM'SS   iiiiuhl    ln'    falal 


I'.M.  Ill'    aniidllliri'il 


Ih; 


il    ('ajilain    Hall's   Irll   siili'  was   |iaral y/nl    iiml    that    In;   hail    hiul    an 


ilplllllCI 


III'    CVI 


•lie  al  lark.  In  I  hi'  iiidiiiin;^'  df  t  hi'  -."il  h  In;  was  iihh  h  hi-l  li-i' ;  in 
iiiiit;'  III'  siillrri'il  a'^^aiii  miii'li  pain  I'ldiii  cdiistanl.  rll'iiils  Id  Vdinil. 
(Ill  llir  'Jflt  II  Dr.  I'n'Ssrls  ailiniiiisti'l'ril  i|  ililiiiir,  ami  i'dIiI  rdiiipri'SSi'S ;  nii 
llir  l^Tlli  iiml  list  h   Mall  was  auaiti  iiiiirh  wurst',  anil  on  this  ila\'  and  tin; 


IWii 


rdlldwiiiu'  slidWcd    mailsi'd    rvidciiri'S  nl'   di'liiiiiin.       I'lniii    this    In; 


siriiird  td  rri'dvrr  ami  tit  ir^ain  siiiiii;  si  rcn^l  h,  rnipldyinj^  his  liini; 
ill  L;i'lliii!4'  ill  didrr  tin;  rcciti'ds  of  his  liili;  sh;df^(;  jdiirn(;y  and  diiilalini,^ 
I'nr  scvrral  hit  ins  to  his  (ticik,  Mr.  Miiiich.  I»iit.  itii  tin;  ni<^lil.  nl'  I  In; 
sixlli  lie  had  iiiidlh(}r  attack,  IVdiii  vvhir.h  In;  sunk  intd  u  rdnialnsi;  st.att; 
iiiilil  o.^i")  A.M.  of  tilt;  8th,  wlirii  li(i  (;xpir<!(l. 

Ill'  had  a  s^fdinl  cdiistitiitidii  and  had  hi'cii  rarely  sink,  hut  had  (;x- 
|itrii'iirrd  several  vei'v  s(;ver(!  attacks  diiriii}^  his  Serdinl  l'>xpeditidn, 
nil  his  reluni  to  ('ineiiUiali  at  its  eldse,  and  while  pre|)ariii[r  to  sail  in 
llic  "  Pdlaris."  Twd  attacks  had  heeii  tlmse  dl"  verlij^d.  'Ihe  severe 
siraiii   dl"   mimi    Id  which    he  siihjecteil   hiiiiseir,   tidupled    with    the   dis- 


nio  .IiK'.  ^vlut 
tlu'  ice  at'liT 


ilii'  .-^'•iiii 


iMlioii  (if  till'  dot'  ](iiity  Iruiii  llic  "  I'liliiris,"  Octohcr  15,  |S"-J.     A  ))li()t(i-litli()L;i;ii>li 


will  III'  foinid  ill  tin;  sfcoml  iMlilioii  tjf  tin;  "  i'oliiris "'  voliiiiii',  issiii',1  iiftcrliii-  (ji'iilli  of  tlif 
lull'  Ailmiral  Davis. 

'lilt!  (lispatcli  (Ifpositctl  ill  tin;  cairn  was  found  l)y  Dr.  (.'oiipin^'cr  of  Ur-  I';iij;lisli  Aiitic 
i'.xjii'ditioii,  May  \'>,  1S75,  and  sent  with  olhtir  nilics  1j>  tlic  IJritisli  Ailniirally  to  the 
riiilril  Stall's  (;ovi;rnnn'iit. 


tn 


n 


tp 


I 


\m 


H 


•J'.is 


AMi:i;i('AN"   Kxri-oiiA  rin\s  in    i'iiI';  we  zonk 


.1 1 1] )( lint  men t  i'\|n'i'irn<-('(I  by  his  licini;-  alth;  to  mala'  no  rurther  noi  ihiii.r^ 
anil  the  (•oiiscionsncss  tlial  nn  one  n['  the  lictcront'in'ous  partv  (Hi  1im;i|i| 
till'  '•  Polai'is  "  had  snilicicnl  sympathy  with  his  ohjccts  to  nlicsc  iiji,, 
iVom  tilt'  greatest  ri'S]ionsil)ililit's,  wore  in  all  [irohahility  the  imnndi.nc 


ocras 


ion  ol'  the  I'atal  ii'sult. 


At    till'   t'losc   of  an   extended    imjuiry,   made    Dee.  L*t».  IST 


).   i>\ 


leiMiest  of  the  Seei'etarv  oi' the  Na  vy,  Snri;('on-(  leneral  IJarnes.  ^.^..\. 


and  SuruiMiii-Cienera 


d  IJeale,  C.S.  N.,  alter  tl 


le  retnrn  ol   .lie  shn 


I  >  idiii- 


jiany.  Dee.  2t»,  1S7'>,  eertilied  that,  after  listeidn;^  to  the  lestini(.ii\  ,i|' 
Di'.  I'x'ssels  with  n'reat  care,  and  jinttin^'  to  him  snt'h  ([Uestions  as  wciv 
<leemed  necessary,  from  tlu'  eirenmstanees  and  syni]itoms  detailcil  liy 
him  and  eonijiared  willi  the  medical  testimony  of  all  the  witnesse>.  iLcv 
were  eonclnsively  of  the  ojiinion  that  ('aj)tain  Hall  died  IVom  naliir,i| 
(Rinses.  — viz.,  apoplexy,  and  that  the  treatment  of  the  ease  was  the  hot 
|)raetieal)le  under  tlu;  eirenmstanees.     [Ifeport  of  See"v  Navy  for  l.'^T-I.J 

The   body   of  Cajitain    llall,  after   l)ein;4'   prejiared   I'or   burial.   \v;i> 
cuNcred   with   the   national   Hat''. 

A  party  under  Mate  Cliesti'r  sent  on  shore  to  dii;'  the  niaNc  ^l|(■- 
ceeded  after  the  fat i^'uiiin'  eflbrts  of  two  days  in  exeavatini^'  the  tVu/cii 
y'round  to  a  depth  of  Iwenty-six  inches — -the  seat  of  pi'rmaiienl  lVu,,i. 
"It  was  daytime,  but  all  darkness  there  at  that  season,*"  the  di:;'. 
beint;-  done  hy  the  li^'ht  of  lanterns.  At  11  A.M.  ol'  Novendier  l<t, 
ship's  bell  was  tolled,  the  coffin  ]ilaci'd  on  a  sled,  and  tlu'  burial  [ 
<'ession,  headed  by  Assistant  Navi,n'at(U-  Tyson,  jiicked  their  way  a^ain 


III'. 


irn- 


anteiMi 


lit-iit 


over  tlie  ice  to  the  u'rave  on  sIhu'c 


TI 


le  u'rouml  \\a 


niostU'  eovere( 


I  witl 


1    S1U)W 


At  the  close  of   the  burial  service  i 


t'.Kl    li\ 


Air.  IJrvau  "the  silence  wlueli   followed  \\as  1)rok-en  bv  tl 


le   sounds  n 


the  earth  on  the  coflin  and  the  sol)s   of  Hannah."      .\n  overwlu'lmin 


caianuty  had  talleii  on  tlu'  sori'owing  company.     As  regards  the  ohjfi  i 
of  the  expedition  also,  it  was  a  fatal  issue. 


WIXTKi;    ON    I'.oAliT)   Till-:    "  POLARIS,      If^Tl-Ti'. 

On  tlu'  death  of  Captain  Hall,  the  command  of  the  expedition 
dcNolved  on  Captain  l)udino"t(Ui.  who  iiromjitly  sij^ned  with  the  eliiel'nf 
the   Scicntilic  (\)r]is  a  paper  which  closes  with  tlu-  words:    "It   is   our 


Il<lllllill._^f_ 

"III    Im,;||,| 

li<'\i'    hilll 
llllilrdi.ii,. 

•'>.    l',\     I  lie 

11)1  S    ciilii- 

tiiiiiiii\  III' 

IS   ilS    WCIV 

•liiilcil  liv 

'SSCS.  I  lii'V 

11   lllllill'.ll 

S    till'    Ili'Sl 

'or  1n7."1.J 
iriiil.    was 


riivc  >\\v- 

\\r   Ini/.i'ii 

III   rrii.>i. 

<li,L:'L;iiiL[ 

1<>.  the 

rial   piM- 

an'iiiii  In- 

ml   was 

I'iMil  iiV 
iIIIkIs  iif 
]|rllllili^- 
('   nlijcct 


l)(Mlltlii|i 
cliict'iif 

:   is   (Mir 


'  r 


II 


in 


;    I 
■    I 

i    t 


I    ■    I 


300 


AMKinrAN    KXPLORATIDNS    IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


honest  inteiiti<tii  to  lioiior  our  dear  Hag,  and  to  lK)ist  her  on   the  nidst 

northern  i)art  of  the  earth;  t(»  complete  tlie  enter^jrise  upon  which  ih,. 

eyes  of  the  whole  civilized  world  are  raised,  and  to  do  all  in  our  inu,.! 

to  reach  our  proposed  goal. 

"S.  ().  P>ri)iN(;T(iN. 

"Emil  Hessels." 

The  severity  of  the  long  Arctic  winter  showed  its  beginnings  Ik  inn 
the  middle  of  .Noveud)er.  On  the  18th  and  the  two  followin<''  (lii\>.  ;i 
gale  from  the  iu)rtheast  blew  Avith  the  violence  of  nearly  lifty  iiiih^im 
hour.  Ileruumn  Siemens,  a  very  strong  man,  while  making  his  usual 
tidal  observations  was  literally  taken  up  by  the  storm  and  thrown  upnn 
the  ice,  and  the  shi[)  itself  was  driven  over  on  one  side,  her  sudw  wall 
being  sliosed  out  and  broken.  Dr.  IJessels  and  ]Mr.  Meyer  were  rtxucil 
by  llnuy  and  Joe  from  the  greatest  danger  on  their  return  from  ohsi  r- 
vatory  duty.  The  Eskimos  knew  better  how  to  battle  with  the  stiuui 
wind.  At  the  Observatory,  the  Anemometer's  caps  v/ere  wiiiiliii'^ 
round  at  amazing  s])eed,  indicating  while  it  was  possible  to  stand  \>>\\>_^ 
enough  betV)re  the  wind  to  read,  a  velocity  of  from  fifty  to  sixty  niilr>. 
The  creaking  of  the  nuists  and  the  howling  of  the  wind,  together  with 
the  darkness,  increased  b}'  a  lieavy  drift  of  snow,  made  the  day  one  <i\' 
anxiety  ;  the  cracking  of  the  ice  around  the  vessel  was  felt,  and  it  was 
soon  discovered  that  she  was  atloat  with  eight  fathoms  of  water  I'lUwaKl 
and  six  aft,  increasing  to  twelve  and  a  half.  She  was  brought  up  hv 
the  best  bower,  the  starboard  anchor;  and,  by  Niederman  and  the 
Eskimos  performing  the  dangerous  duty  of  replanting  ice-anchors.  wa> 
again  secured  to  Providence  Berg.  She  drifted  against  the  nmih- 
eastcrn  side,  and  her  stern  was  exposed  to  the  attack  of  the  llocs.  hut 
by  a  narrow  chance  she  iiad  been  saved  from  being  carried  out  intn 
the  channel  to  drift  south. 

Five  days  afterward,  a  gale  from  the  southwest  broke  the  lici;^' 
itself  into  two  parts,  and  the  ice  forced  in  between  them,  sei)aratiii^ 
them  by  a  distance  of  eight  feet ;  at  midnight  the  two  parts  were  tuinid 
to  be  in  motion,  the  smaller  one  moving  more  rapidly.  The  stron^vst 
man  now  held  his  breath,  for  it  really  seemed  that  the  ship  nuisi  \tv 


TIIK    '•  l'(»I,Ai;iS        .\(;AI\    in    DANCiKlI. 


301 


P,ii«liril,  and  it  was  tlKmylit  several   times  tiiat    the  ice  had  l)eoii  forced 
thii    ;.;h  her  si(h';   hut  wlieii    she  ei  ine  in    euiitaet  with  the  lieri,' a  hir^e 


V. 


tmii^ue  of  ice  beU>w  Avith  liie  lu'l[)  of  tlie  wind  raised  iier  hdw  with  a 
I. lilt.     ''This  probably  saved  her/'     Siemens  says:   "Had  tlie  ice  on 


i 


\\i 


'.o-j 


.\Mi;i;ir.\N   i;\ri,oi;A  ri(»Ns  in    iiii;  ici:  /,<»nks. 


I  III'  Ice   sidr  ol'   t  lie  lit  ml','  licfii  iis  si  i  uii;^-  ;is  1 1  ml   nii  tin-  \\  iM  I  iicf  si(|,  .  il,,, 
slii|i  w  mild  sih'cIn   \\a\v  lircii  ciil  I  lir(Mii;'li  ur  lliiiiwii  dii  lirr  liriiiiirinU  " 
(  >ii  I  lie  J! '1 1 1  t  lit'  Im'I  l;  nil  i\  1(1  in  luw  ;ii(ls  slim  r.  >lin\  in;;  I  lir  ••  I'nl.n  i^'- 
lM'tnii'  il.  iiinl  ;il  lliri'i'iii  llir  iiinrninL;',  lirml\  l;'Ii'Iiiii1('iI  :  :iiii|    ihw   ,|,|||. 

HITS  ;i|i|ir;ii('il  W  lien  I  lie  title  IrlK  I'tir  i  lie  sliTIi  nl'  I  lie  \fssr|  sunk.  Ir.n  n,,,' 
llir  liDW  I'liiir  j'l'ft  lii^liiT:  slit'  iilsu  lifflcil  i>\ri'  III  |iiiil  sii  niiii'li  lli.n  n 
\\;is  iiii|iiissili|f  III  wiilk  till  (Ink  ;  lull  when  llif  liilf  rusr,  llif  .slii|i  ,  n,,,. 
Ill  ;iii  i\rii  krt'l.  Tlii'  lVii;li(i'iifil  Mskiiiins  liuili  two  siinw -linii-i  (  n 
sliiMt'  111  li\  ('  in.  I  Jut  llif  "  I'lihiris,"  iill  Imii^li  niiirli  si  riiiiiril.  w  ,is  .i';,iiii 
sii\  III.  ;iiiil  lilt'  slii|i"s  ciiniiiiiny  (■(•It'liriilfij  llic  :'.<Mli  its  'I'lMiiks'^n  ih- 
n.iv:    llif  simw -limisfs    Imill    i.n   slio'.f   \\t'if   iifxcr  dfc  ii|iii'il. 

l-ilf  (III  Imaiil  t  lie  ■■  rnkiris  "  duiiiiL;'  I  lif  iiiniil  li  til'  I  )f('('iiili(  r.  1^71. 
\\;is  fii|ii|i;ii;il  i\  f  I\  iikhiiiI  niinns.  Il  \\;is  I'liiind  iiii|iiissililt'  In  rlt,iii-,. 
llif  [icsiiidii  nf  llif  slii|i  wliifli  IkiiI  licfii  imitlf  sti  iiiifiiiiirnrliililf  li\  iIh' 
|iiliiii;'  ii|i  III'  llif  iff  ;iliiiiil  tlif  stfiii  :  ;it  Inw  tidf  llic  jis(,  fS|iffiall\  lU 
llif  slarlinaitj  sitlc,  was  c \ffi'diii''l\  disa'-Tfcalilf . 


Til 


f  iff  in  1 1  If  si  rails  w  as  sti  Kmisc  I  lial  t  lie  Icasl  al  iii(is|ilif  lic  di^'  m  I 


aiiff  sfi    larL;'f   iiiassfs  fl'  il    in   iiidtitiii.      ( )ii    the    1<>I  li,  opf  ii  wain  \\,i> 
iilisfiM'd  Iwn  nr  tlircf  iiiilfs  ilistant  :   (his  was  the  |ifritid  nl'  "s|iriii;;-." 

Ill  llif  niiddlf  III"  llif  iiiiHilli,  llif  "  I'tilaris ""  lalxircd  ni'fall\.  ilir 
(TfakiiiL;' t'l'  lie  r  I  iiiilit  IS  as  slif  iiitivfd  up  and  dtiwii  against  llic  Ikt'.;- 
sniiiidfd  like  \iill  '^  s  III'  iiiiiskf  I  ly,  aiitl  the  licrv;'  ilsfll'  wliifli  was  tnii- 
liimilly  iirfakiiit;'  in  pifffs,  [irfssftl  innrf  Itiwartl  llii'  ship.  I  ItiiiiiiKicks 
w  tMc  pilfd  lip  III  llif  lifii;ii(  nf  tliirly  left  alxivf  llif  sea  Icvfl,  and  ilir 
fi'l'fft  ft'  llif  ftiiistaiil  pri^ssurf  was  In  raise  thf  vfssfl  slill  liii;lifr,  m.ik- 
iiiLi'  lifi'  fniitlititiii  iimrf  iiiisal'f   and    uiuMuiil'iirialilf .     Thf  siuiw  wall  liv 


w 


I'.ifii   shf   hail    liffii   siirrdiiiidfd   having'  lu'cii   carrifd   awav  wlicii   sin 


lunkf  adrift,  thf  lu'ilhs  Wfif  now  luufli  fnlilfv.      The   llic niitniif I 


(Ts  Mil 


linard  no  Imie't'i'  auTfcd  with  llinsf  ol"  thf  tilisfi'vatnry. 

()ii   thf   'J-'itli.  aiii(iii!4'   thf    iititfs   (if   his   jtnirnal.   ("ajilain    Uudi 


ll''li'lL 


a  \  s 


W 


0   ai'f    ill    liy   iiti    uifaiis    a    salt'   ptisilinn.       llic  (laiiL;i 


■r  tli.il 


tlii'falfiis  us  is  iVti'ii  llif  Sfasidf.  ami  this  in  the  ftiriii  nf  SdUlliw est  L;a'ii'. 
ill  fdiiiif  f  t  i(Mi  with   spiiiiLi,'   lidf?   which    may  push   llif  m'sscI    I'lirllifi  ;ii 


hdi't'.     Mif  will  ilifii    liavf  (iiil\-  twti  f liaiiffs.  f illif !•  Iti  rfsisl  tlie  in'f-^ 


;l  th 


UTf  ^A'  thf  lifiL!:  i""l  hi'fak   llif   land   iff,  ali'fadv  thr(H>  feet  Ihifk 


nr  im' 


•nir.  "  rni.AiMs      i\   n  \\(;i;i; 


\\o:\ 


y  sid 

.  11 

1  • 

lllll  r 

.11  i^ 

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llcU 

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l\  11 

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ll 

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iiil\>ui\  ii 

'^' 

lIliT. 

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1. 

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;■• 

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IC 

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wall 

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l> 

sprii)--.' 

vail. 

\.     1 

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til. 

lir 

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■;   (1 

11- 

IlllllllllM' 

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K  ami   1 

ir 

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ill 

the 

piV 

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ick 

■ir 

ll,' 

,,,iiii,  In    lilted    ii|i  niil    III"  llir  water."'      Tuiidavs   al'terwaiij   an  at  teiii|.t 
\\,|.,    iiiaile    tu    IVee    tjie   ve^>el     li\    e  \  |  ilud  i  le.;-    Iniii     lai'^c    eliai'je>    mJ'    vUli- 


|iii\V(|{'r  ill   dil'lcrciit  jilaecs  imt    far  iVdiii   the  shiji's  side.      Uiit    this  did 
Jiiit  even  crack  the  lee.    The  Captain  expresses  his  regret  that  the  shiit 


It.  J 


;{i)4 


AMKUK  A.N    KXIM^OHATIONS    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZONKS. 


,1    ' 


■i     111 


liiul  not  hi'iMi  iiiiclKHi'd  ill  Nowinaii's  liny,  wlicrc.  lie  licllcvcd,  lici'  |i(.>i. 
tidii  would  liiivc  Im'cii  iiiidistmlx'd  in  winter  <iuaitt'is,  twenty  iiiIIch 
I'urtlici'  nniili.  ,  ^ 

Tiic  amount  of  coal  (ionsunu'd  duiinjjf  the  month  was  H,(U\()  ll»s.,  im 
inci'MSf  on  tli(!  (!onsum|>tion  of  Novcndx'i-,  and  this,  notwitlistamliii^' 
tlic  utninst  t'cnnomy  I'Xcicist'd.      Hudinj^ton  said  :  — 

"If  tlio  I'onsnniption  of  this  fuel  is  cniitiiiiu'd  at  the  same  rale.  ;, 
stoppai^r  of  whicli,  without  cndanj^i'rin^'  (HW  licalth,  is  nut  pussilth  .  w,. 
will  hardly  have  enough  loi'  twn  winters,  to  say  nothing  of  usini;'  ^iciiin 
on  our  I'ctniu.  The  idea  of  |iil»)tin^'  the  vi'ssol  through  Smith  Smnnl 
with  the  aid  of  sails  is  an  ahsurdity.  Without  considcrin*;'  tlu;  salcu 
of  tilt'  vessel,  the  expeHeuees  (if  both  Kaiu'  and  Hayes  are  sullieieni  in 
show  that  a  sailing'  vessel,  and  esitei'ially  one  likt^  ours,  can  dd  alisn- 
lutoly  nothing-.  'I'he  lirst  opportunity,  however,  we  j;'et  to  leave  this 
winter  harhor  will  he  taken,  and  with  the  aid  of  steam  or  sails,  as  vuw- 
ditious  pei'unt  us,  we  will  attempt  to  ri-aeh  a  hij^her  latitude,  so  as  tn 
onahle  us  to  carry  out  tlu;  ol)jeets  we  ai'e  sent  for."  The  further  pro- 
vision then  ma(h)  for  redueiiiti;  the  consumption  of  coal  saved  a  thuii- 
saud  j)oumis  during  each  of  the  months  following. 

January  1(1,  1872,  twilight  was  visible  at  S  A.M.,  and  the  shi[)*s  ((uu- 
pany  he^an  to  look  forward  to  the  time  wlien  active  spring  work  niit>;lii 
begin.  As  the  sunlight  increased,  it  was  seen  that  long  conlineiiicni 
had  brought  a  j^'culiar  pallor  to  the  face,  but  this  a  few  days  of  cnii- 
tinuous  lii«ht  mi''  '.  "estore.  No  case  of  sickness  had  occurred;  not  the 
slightest  form  of  scurvy.  Judicious  disciidine  had  saved  the  streiij^tli 
and  health  of  the  company,  who  had  been  kept  warm  and  coud'ortaMi'. 
fed  upon  carefully  prepared  st(U'es,  supplied  daily  with  lime-juice,  aiid 
presi'rved  from  despondency  b_y  full  recreation  and  voluntary  exercix'. 
'I'he  car[)entei'  was  occupied  in  building  sledges  for  transporting  ilic 
boats  on  a  northern  journey  as  soon  as  the  season  opened.  ( )ne  nt' 
these  was  fourteen  feet  long  and  two  and  a  half  feet  between  the  ciii- 
tres  of  the  runners,  which  were  ten  and  a  half  inches  high  and  liml 
fourteen  cross-bars  fastened  to  them  by  lashes  of  raw-hide,  which  thus 
gave  them  a  jjlay  of  about  six  degrees  —  a  great  advantage  in  carryini;' 
a  heavy  load  over  rouoh  ice. 


VISITS   TO   CAl'K    Ll'l'TON.  —  OI'KN    WATKU. 


30o 


l?NllilHlil 


i|;j 


1  ciirrviiiu' 


Scvoi'iil  visits  w'iivv  inadi!  to  Cape  liii|it()ii  iiiul  the  points  in  its 
vicinity,  to  h'arn  the  stati'  of  tlu'  id'.  On  tlio  ITtii,  Tyson  and  Joe 
v\,  ic  at  tlie  ca[»e  at  nieridian,  when  th(!  twilight  was  brightest.  No 
w.iiri'  was  to  l)e  seen,  the  stfaits  hcing  eovered  with  young  iee,  not 
.siri.iig  i-noiigii  i(»  ht-ar  their  weight,  mixed  with  large  iloes  ol"  a  reeent 
(jiilt  ;  toward  the  western  coast  «>r  the  ehannel  was  a  low  cloud  of  fresh 

s ke.     On  the  llHli,  Kruger  and  .lanika,  two  of  the  crew,  reached  a 

Midiid  eajie  with  a  team  of  t-ight  dogs.  From  a  height  here  of  about  (tne 
liiimht'd  ieet  above  the  sea-level  a  large  amount  cd'  open  water  api)eared 
(Xiciiding  northward  as  far  as  eould  be  seen,  to  a  distance  estimated 
uiidci'  tlu!  bfight  moon  to  be  twenty  miles.  The  hummocks  and  l)ergH 
li.ni  ilisapi»eared  and  a  new  field  of  ice  covc^red  tlie  waters.  On  the 
libh  Dr.  liessels,  with  two  (d"  the  seamen,  went  to  a  third  cape  to 
examine  this  rejiorted  open  water,  and  (»n  the  28th  Mate  (^hester  again 
inspected  it,  linding  a  current  (da  ndle  an  iiour  toward  the  north.  The 
existence  of  this  open  water  was  regarded  as  favorable  to  boat  journeys 
ill  the  spring.  Tliese  were  the  subjec^t  of  fre(^uent  discussions  during 
the  remainder  of  this  month  and  of  February. 

Dr.  IJessels  subndtted  to  Cai)tain  Hudington  a  phm  of  operations 
t'(ir  the  spring  journey,  in  which  he  discussed  the  two  ways  of  accom- 
plishing the  object  of  the  Exjjedition ;  either  by  boats  and  the  vess(d 
licrsclfor  by  sk'dges  as  at  first  proposed.  The  setting  out  of  a  boat 
party,  he  said,  which  might  start  the  hist  of  Marcli  or  the  beginning 
(if  Aj)ril,  would  depend  entirely  upon  the  area  of  open  water  and  its 
probable  continuance.  One  of  the  smaller  boats  should  be  taken 
with  as  many  provisions,  instruments,  and  small  stores  as  would  be 
necessary,  and  the  boat  party  should  follow  up  the  eastern  side  of  the 
strait,  survej'ing  the  land  and  making  investigations  in  regard  to  the 
currents  and  deep-sea  soundings,  the  last  of  these  being  of  the  highest 
importance ;  for,  except  those  made  by  Ross  in  1818,  there  were  but  a 
few  others,  —  some  taken  by  Inglefield  and  two  by  Kane. 

For  the  best  additional  results  to  be  secured  he  recommended  that, 
(luring  the  time  which  must  elapse  before  a  northern  journey  could  be 
begun,  sledge  parties  should  be  formed  to  penetrate  into  the  interior  of 
the  country,  learn  its  configuration,  deterndne  astronomically  the  longi- 


ri 


i  '«i 


» 

III  \\ 

^ '! 

> 

|:    .p:      , 

^^Mi  i  tL 

306 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE  ICE  ZONES. 


■   '^^!i 


tude  of  Morton's  furthest  i)oint,  and  re-survey  the  coast-line  of  Griiinell 
land,  deturniiniiig,  if  j)ossible,  how  far  it  extends  from  east  to  west. 

As  the  sledge  ])arties  would  be  compelled  to  travel  over  a  jKmr 
country  and  make  large  distances,  the  difficulty  of  providing  dog  teams 
suggested  the  probable  necessity  of  depending  almost  exclusively  uium 
men  for  dragging  them.  All  the  parties  would  build  cairns,  dt'iiosit 
records ;  and  whenever  practicable  signallzv?  by  tlags  and  smoke,  the 
"■  Polaris '"  firing  a  gun  several  times  a  day. 

February  4,  the  twilight  Avas  now  so  bright  that  any  kind  of  \)vu\\, 
from  fine  diamond  up,  could  be  easily  read.  A  spectrum  was  for  the 
first  time  observed.     Stars  of  the  first  magnitude  could  be  clearly  seen, 

Mauch  thus  records  an  observation  of  a  meteor:  "At  4.30  p.m. 
when  making  my  observation,  and  just  attempting  to  read  the  ane- 
mometer, I  observed  in  the  east,  above  the  range  of  hills,  a  bright 
meteor,  slowly  moving  in  a  southerly  direction  toward  the  ground,  at 
an  angle  of  45°.  Its  height  when  I  first  saw  it  was  the  same  as  that 
of  Procyon.  It  was  of  a  light-bluish  color,  resembling  closely  in  its 
Avhole  appearance,  the  blue  light  that  falls  from  some  kinds  of  rocket, 
when  they  burst  in  the  air.  Before  it  disappeared  behind  the  hills,  ii 
left  a  few  sparks  behind,  which,  however,  were  soon  extinguished.  Its 
size  was  that  of  one  of  the  stars  of  the  first  magnitude." 

A  very  fine  auroral  display  was  witnessed  in  the  evening,  the  move- 
ments of  which  were  complicated  and  the  spectacle  very  impressive. 
The  sky  showed  at  first  a  slaty  appearance  to  the  northwest,  with 
occasional  luminous  streamers.  At  7.15  that  quarter  of  the  heavens 
was  of  a  l)lood-red  color,  while  faint  white  streamers  sprang  up  in  rapid 
succession,  increasing  in  numl)ers  from  the  west,  north,  and  northeast; 
all  of  them  directed  to  the  zenith,  and  the  outward  ones  bending  In- 
ward. The  structure  was  that  of  a  dome.  Then  they  all  vanisluMJ. 
giving  place  to  others  which  rose  from  a  wider  extent  of  the  horizon. 
At  8.30  new  and  very  bright  streamers  toward  tb.e  zenith  gatheivil 
about  it  till  they  formed  a  corona.  Next,  all  moved  northward  Mitii  a 
motion  of  between  six  and  seven  seconds  to  a  decrree.  The  corona 
opened,  forming  a  beautiful  curtain  of  an  intense  color  between  yellnw 
and  white ;  and  at  9.30  another  corona  formed  itself  of  new  streamers 


AUllOUAS.  —  PENDULl  M    KXI'KKIMKNT. 


3(^7 


(•i.iiiiii<:f  up  in  every  direction.  The  display  lasted  all  the  night  of  the 
4tli.  and  continued  with  slight  interruittion  through  the  5th.  Tlie  red 
eiilor  of  the  sky  moved  around  and  was  last  seen  in  the  east,  disappeur- 
iiit;'  ill  the  southeast, 

riio  temperature  during  the  first  half  of  Decendjer  liad  ranged  liigh, 
the  lowest  being  24°;  during  the  last  half  /..e  mercury  was  at  -JH"; 
.hiiiiiary  9,  the  thermometer  read  — 48°.  During  February,  the  highest 
iccorded  was  — 07,  the  lowest  — 43°  5'. 

( )ii  the  29th,  Captain  Budington  acknowledged  the  receipt  of  Dr. 
licssils'  plan  of  work,  and  advised  him  tliat  the  expedition  to  the  north 
would  probably  proceed  by  the  aid  of  boats,  in  which  case  it  was  his 
intention  to  take  the  command;  but  that  it  appeared  to  be  useless  to 
(diiu',  as  yet,  to  any  conclusion  as  to  this  journey  or  the  i)roceedings 
of  the  ship. 

During  the  winter  montlis  scientific  observations  were  diligently 
kt'pt  up ;  tidal  observations,  as  well  as  the  meteorological,  were  re- 
oonnnenced  soon  after  the  storm  of  November  21.  Moon  culminations 
were  made  by  Mr.  Bryan  with  the  transit  instrument,  and  experiments 
with  the  pendulum  were  begun  January  2.  Dr.  Bessels  gives  the  fol- 
lowing account  of  his 


"  PENDULUM  EXPERIMENT." 


'•  'J'he  pendulum  is  an  invariable,  reversible  brass  pendulum,  of  live 
tVi't  7.75  inches  in  length,  and  very  near  synchronous,  but  not  convert- 
il'le.  It  is  swung  on  steel  knife-edges,  and  suspended  iu  a  box  of  strong 
board  with  a  glass  door.  In  order  to  disconnect  the  instrument  as  far 
as  ])ossible  from  the  small  building  in  which  it  was  swung,  a  Sv^uare 
hole  was  cut  through  the  floor  in  the  middle  of  the  western  wall  of  tlie 
oiisorvatory.  Underneath  this  opening  a,  heavy  piece  of  timber  was 
iViizfii  solid  to  the  ground.  A^^  the  floor  of  the  hut  did  not  rest  directly 
oil  the  soil,  but  was  placed  on  beams  of  oak,  the  plank  mentioned  be- 
fore was  entirely  isolated  from  the  observatory  and  became  as  firm, 
under  the  influence  of  the  low  temperature,  after  the  course  of  a  few 
(lays  as  the  frozen  soil  itself  upon  which  it  rested.  On  this  piece  of 
tiiuher  the  pendulum-box  was  screwed  in  such  a  manner  thr.f  the  plane 


JU^^^^, 


l^'U      ■[     : 


u 


308 


AMERICAN    EXPLORATIONS    IN   THE    ICE   ZONES. 


'    I 


m 


i:l 


•ti* 


ivt- 


•  r 


II' I 


r 


-I 


■t 


in  which  the  pendulum  was  swung  was  tliat  of  the  meridian,  ami  jn 
order  to  secure  the  utmost  steadiness  a  barrel  was  placed  outside  ihy 
observatory  on  the  same  plank  on  which  the  pendulum-box  rested. 
The  barrel  was  surrounded  by  a  heap  of  gravel,  which  was  moistpiied 
with  water  in  order  to  cement  it  in  a  solid  manner  to  the  plank.  After 
this  was  done  a  hole  was  cut  through  the  wall  of  the  observatory  Ix'- 
hind  the  place  where  the  pendulum-box  was  fastened.  A.  haU-iiicli 
iron  bar,  bent  at  right  angles,  was  passed  through  this  hole,  and  one 
end  of  it  was  fastened  to  the  back  wall  of  the  box  by  means  of  live 
screws.  The  other  end,  which  was  about  three  feet  over  the  centre  of 
the  barrel  outside  of  the  observatory,  was  screwed  to  a  three-inch  iron 
bar  set  up  nearly  perpendicular  in  the  keg. 

"After  having  accomplished  the  work  so  far,  the  barrel  was  (illed 
with  gravel  and  sand,  over  which  was  poured  some  water.  Before  tlie 
mass  was  frozen  hard  we  levelled  the  pendulum-box  as  nearly  as  could 
be  done,  and  when  it  was  found  to  be  tolerably  level,  the  bar  outside 
was  fastened  by  means  of  ropes  to  the  wall  of  the  observatory,  in 
order  to  prevent  it  from  giving  way  and  disturbing  the  position  of  ilie 
box.  After  two  days  had  elapsed,  the  gravel  was  frozen  solid  and  the 
ropes  were  removed.  It  was  found  that  the  box  had  not  changed  its 
level ;  but  at  the  same  time,  it  was  not  so  steady  as  might  have  been 
expected.  To  secure  it  better,  a  hole  of  three  inches'  diameter  was 
drilled  through  the  floor  of  the  observatory  about  one  foot  north  of  the 
box,  and  another  one  of  the  same  diameter  and  at  the  same  distance 
south  of  it.  Through  each  of  these  holes  an  iron  bar,  one  inch  thick 
and  three  feet  long,  was  driven  into  the  frozen  soil  and  connected  with 
the  box  by  means  of  two  other  iron  bars  bent  at  right  angles,  siuiilar 
to  the  one  mentioned  above,  and  screwed  together  in  a  similar  manner. 

''  The  vibrations  (performed  in  the  plane  of  the  meridian)  were 
observed  with  a  small  direct-vision  telescope  placed  about  eight  feet 
east  of  the  arc  of  the  pendulum.  The  point  of  the  swinging  knife-edge 
served  as  a  mark,  and  observations  were  made  with  vibrations  from 
right  to  left  (north  to  south)  and  from  left  to  right  to  correct  for 
eccentricity  of  mark.  Each  set  wae  begun  with  the  right.  An  arc  of 
a  circle  of  39.25  inches'  radius,  divided  from  the  middle  each  way  to  live 


AURORAS.  —  PENDULUM   EXPERIMENT. 


309 


degrees,  with  subdivisions  of  tenths  degrees,  was  phieed  over  the  swing- 
ing knife-edge,  and  the  extreme  excursions  to  the  right  and  left  noted. 
The  times  were  recorded  by  a  sidereal  chronometer,  which  wa?.  compared 
with  iive  other  box  chronometers  by  means  of  a  pocket  clironometer 
l)t  I'dre  and  after  each  set  of  observj'tions  was  taken.  Tlie  pondu- 
luiii  was  swung  in  four  different  positions  designated  by  tiie  number 
.siaiiipcd  on  the  rod  near  tlie  knife-edge ;  the  numbers  one  and  t\.'o 
being  on  one  side,  and  three  and  four  on  i:ie  reverse.     The  steel  plates 

upon  wliich the  knife- 
edge  rested  were  lev- 
•^   elled  by  a  small  spirit 
»'  g-   level  every  tune  he- 
^  g    fore   the  set  was  be- 
gun, when   the   door 
cf  the  bo?;  was  closed 
and  kept  f,hut  till  the 
w      set  was  finished." 

=•2 

oi;2         Auroral    displays 


3  £|!  had  been  of  freiiuent 
occurrence  through 
the  season.  Decem- 
ber 29,  luminous 
streamer^'  were  seen 
extending  in  an  arch 
throutih  the  zenith 
from  northeast  to 
sculhwest.  January  0,  beautiful  displays  were  seen  nearly  all  day. 
When  the  sky  was  clear  and  the  breeze  light  from  the  bt)uth,  lumi- 
nous clouds  extended  themselves  from  the  southwest  in  the  form 
•  if  an  arch.  Fantastic  forms  of  light  came  and  went  rapidly,  and 
tlicre  were  bands  of  yelK)w  and  white.  Again  on  the  lOtli,  narrow 
l)iight  strips  ran  up  into  an  arc  which  passed  from  the  western  hori- 
zon through  the  zenith  to  the  east,  parallel  with  tlie  milky  way,  and 
distant  from  it  about  twelve  degrees;  at  the  same  time  luminous 
streamers  of  a  greenish  hue  slidt   up  Irom  the  east.     Like  appearances 


" 

M 

1- . 

1 

gpi 

■  '■ 

w               "^ 

I 

i 

1 

\te 


i  I 


v.i  ^•^ 


.ill'  vmi.khvn    r\n  oi;  \  noN.-;   in    nil'   ir|.:  /omim. 

prrscMli'il  t  licm^clx  cs  mi  llu'  li'lh.  Illli.  .'iml  l<>(li.  ,\l  llir;!-  ilh|.li\>, 
lli('  in:hMnl.iuH'(tM-  \\;IM  \\o{  plisrivcil  li\  Mr.  I»iviiii  In  show  iiii\  iii,nL,| 
dcllrt  I  mil . 

On    till'    nii'iiiiii);    "I     l'"rlMii;ir\     ;'!.   sdiiic    \i'r\     ImmiiI  iliil    pai  umI.  n.. 


W  (M  I'    I'li-^-i 


ivt'tl  ;   (lii>  I  liri  niiMiiclcr  \\;is  ;'.('    lu'low  /.cm 


\l 


nirll    liiiiili     I  1 


Mill  show  11  (Ml  ( Iir  prri'iMliiii;  | 


t;HM' 


i;i  rri.N   ni     nii'  ^in. 


0\ 


1  ilic  JMh 


I'l     I'lhi  ii;ir\    (I 


lie  ol'   ( lie   liii|i|ii('st 


(l;i\  s  w  ;is  ('\  piMiiii 


ic  sun  woulil  l>i'  M'iMi  nlliM-  ;in  iilisciirp  ol    I'lic  liniiijini  iiiiij  lliirl\   \\\, 


I  .'\  1 


'I  .1 


tl;i\s.  and  111  an  (>ail\  lunu  all  liaiid'^  were  on  llic  IohImmiI, 
l>(Mili('d  (Ml  llir  liMt'li'it  ol  llio  *' I'olai  is."  ol  liiMs  on  llio  lo|>  ol  I' 
diMi.  .'  HiM!',-  Al  '  '••'•'  :i  small  poilion  ol'  llic  ii|'|M-r  limit  was  .scrn 
lew  moiuiMils  iluoiioli  a  !^or!<;r  in  llic  moiinlain.  and  al  III. I.)  (lie  w  Imlr 
oil>  siiddtMih  appcaii'd  tVom  'n-liind  ('ape  I'xsoii  and  rolled  in  lull  "1m|\ 
o\(  1  ilio  sonilii'in  lio'.i'  ( 'lii'cr  alirr  cliccr  wcnl  n|>  lioni  llu-  ('o!ii|i,ni\ , 
liitMiuMi  l(M|Mn!V  and  itimi>in:v  ahoiil  w  il  li  crirs  ol' "  ( )|i  !  Iiow  warm  n  i-,, 
Ih-  lias  noi   ror'>otitMi  ns.""      I  Ic  conliniiril   al>o\r    (lie  lioii.on    lill    .1   r  \| 


A  l^Mlle   ol  wnu'  was   -'ivcii    to  oarli  ol    ilio   crew,  and    rivard  Ics  di  i 


iMUed  an 


loii'-   1  ho  moil  loi  w  ail 


April   I.  1 


!■•  rai'lain  ol    i  lio  "  I'olai  is  '    (M'.'ani/od    (  w  o  lioals"  i  n'\'  .  i. 


in    ilu'    ('\plovat  ion    as  soon    as    llio    ;lato   o\'   tli 


(■    ice  w  oiild    piTiii 


Mato  1  Mir-'toi    and  Assisiant    N 


i\i',;aloi'    I  \  son   w  oro  jMacod   rrs|irrin(l\ 


m  ^^>mn1and.  Pr.  Ui'ssels   and    Mr.  Mcvor  liciii;"'  oaoli   second  willi    Imn 


si-anuMi. 


O 


1  lU'l  s    W  (>!('    ^1 


\  cn  llial   the  Imals  and  crews  lie  rcad\    {< 


>    si, II  I 


tlu'    IoiIowiul;'    month,  and    in    aeiordain'c   with    the   sii!''!.''<'sl  ions  w  lni 


lia\e    iN'eu    name 


leoi'c     ( 


Mirne\  s  \\  ere    iii    t  he    iiiean    t  iiiie    ma 


Mr     111 


dilV.  VtMH  poinis.  (){'  one  of  these  Maneh  remarks:  "  1  have  lieeii  \\\<  In 
('ape  I.npton.  (omparine-  lla\es'  "Open  I'olar  Sea  "  ol'  the  I'.Mli  ol'  M.i\. 
ISiil.  wu!  tlu'  present  one.  Tiic  straits  present  a  \  asl  volunie  nl 
unpcuiMrablc  p;iek  with  not  a  speek  of  open  water.""     'The  teiiipciai  me 


was  s 


till  too  low   Tor  the  hoiit   ionruevs.      'I'liis  state  y^f  tl 


ii>  me  colli  iiiiir 


w 


itli    little   intermissiiMi    until   thcTth    ol'  .luiie.    when    on   a    I'avoiahle 


rop>nl  iVom  C,\vc  l.u]Uon  (dicsttM'"s  crew  was  sent  thither,  'rvsoiTs  al 


>;\'ini;"  lovw  m\\   on   llu 


iicM    ilav.      1>IU.  tin  Ihi'    I  1th.  Mate  Cjiesl 


cr  w. 


HI,  IN    "iiii,  iii'i  N    pni.Ai;   si;a. 


\\,ih  I    1 1 


||r<|     In     |l'|M.|l     ;ll     (lir     ■;lii|i,     lli;il,    iillcr     piissiliif    il     slli|i     ol      (i|irll 
iidiiiM    immiiimI    llir    (   iiiii',  lib;    ImkiI    Wii-;    ci  ii-.lird    Itv   ll"'    iiinviiiij 


irrirm  I  (| 
liii  I  \    I  w  .1 
ml,    Miiiii' 

seen   Im   ,i 

I  lie     W  linli' 
lull    "I'W 

r(i!n|Mii\ , 
\  iirni  II  I--, 
nil    -1    I'M 

ICS     (ll.l'l 


piiik,  iiiid  witli    il   the   liDX    cliifiiiiiinrlcr,  iind    tlu;   tiiiicli  viiIih'I    Ciiscll.i 
iliriidulilc;  and  dtlicr  iiisliiiiiHiiits.      A  r(!ii<;wu<l   iitt.r;iii[)t,  met  witli   not 


m 


I 


ll: 

• 

;    ,, 

■  ■■'_ 

i 

1 

I  i!" 


ii 


w 


I' 

■ 

.'i. 

312 


AMKKRAN    KXl'LOlI ATIONS    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZONKS. 


niiujli  greater  suecess, — both  this  cicw  and  'rysun's  siU'ceecUiig'  t\\\\\  i,, 
reaehiiig  the  mouth  ol' Newiuaii's  l>ay  and  tliere  eneaiiipnig. 

The  (•(Hiilitioii  of  the  ''I'ohuis""  had  become  more  iiiisal'e  and  uihiiin. 
iortal)le.  A  serious  leak  had  been  discoveretl  as  far  baek  as  .M,i\  Ji, 
and  before  the  eh)se  of  June  it  was  necessary  to  keep  the  punip  _;i]iii.. 
twelve  hours  out  of  the  twenty-four,  liy  tliis  (hite,  however,  iIki,. 
seemed  a  fair  expectation  that  ere  long  she  eouhl  be  pai'tially  s;i\\t  i| 
out  and  eli>ar  herself  by  tiie  opening  of  the  ice.  The  northeast  m;i|,. 
Completely  cleared  the  straits  to  the  west  and  southwest,  but  died  uwav 
without  displacing  the  berg.  After  two  days"  hiborious  use  of  tin;  id.. 
saws  the  stern  of  the  vessel  was  freed;  she  slid  from  the  tongue  of  the 
berg  into  an  open  cut  and  was  once  more  afloat.  There  was  imuli 
open  water  in  sight.  It  was  possible  that  Robeson's  Strait  was  fife  and 
it  was  expedient  to  join  the  boat  parties  supposed  to  be  as  far  nnriji  iis 
Cajjc  Joseph  Henry.  The  "Polaris"  rounded  Cape  Lujjton  and  scciucd 
to  have  a  clear  sea  before  her,  but  found  an  im])euetrable  ])ack  near 
both  ('aj)e  Sumner  and  Cape  Lieber;  she  returned  to  Thank  (Jod  Har- 
bor, and  again  tied  up  to  the  berg.  On  receiving  a  message  from  Matf 
('hester  that  both  boats  were  cncani[)ed  at  Newman's  Bay,  the  ('apt.iiii 
again  started  north  to  pi(;k  the  boats  up,  the  crews  of  which  were 
needed  to  take  care  of  the  shij)  and  nudce  her  ready  to  move  nmlli  il' 
the  op])oi'tunity  should  offer.  Ikit  this  effort,  as  well  as  ii  third  iiiiiijf 
during  the  lirst  week  of  July,  was  again  totally  iinsuecessfid.  V.-m-\\ 
crew  was  compelled  to  abandon  its  boat,  and  walk  back  from  cani]! 
to  the  slii]t. 

August  1,  it  had  now  become  a  matter  of  serious  moment  to  atinin 
any  well-grounded  ex[)ectation  of  accomplishing  at  this  late  date  any- 
thing more  towards  the  object  of  the  expedition;  or  indeed,  to  |ini- 
vide  for  the  safety  of  the  vessel.  The  first  of  these  objec^ts,  as  will  lie 
readily  seen  from  the  jireceding  statements,  seemed  ho])eless;  thr 
second  was  fast  bectmiing  the  central  object  of  all  thought.  Tin' 
engineers  reported  that  there  remained  coal  enough  for  only  six  (l;!\s" 
steannng,  —  a  sup])ly  sullieient  to  carry  the  vessel  under  ravoi;ililc 
circumstances  to  Disco.  The  (^i])tain's  joni'iial  says:  "I  have  liccii 
living  in  hopes  that  we  siiould  get  further  north,  but  the  season  is  so 


Ig  "'lll.V   III 

11(1  llllrnlll- 
S    M.l\     Jl. 

mill  !-;"iii,^' 
V(!r,  ihciv 
illy  s; I  Weil 
llt'iist  ;4;il,. 
d'u'A  ilWiiV 
di'  lln!  iei- 
[JIK!  ol'  tilt' 

was  111  11(1 1 
IS  iVci'  and 
ir  north  as 
lid  scciiu'd 
jiiick  near 
:  God  1  lar- 
froiii  Mate 
le  ( 'aptaiu 
lilcli  wciv 
•e  iKU'lli  if 
liird  made 
111.  Kacli 
I'oiu   caiiip 

to  attain 
(late  any- 

(1.    to    pl'ii- 

as  ivill  lie 
■less:    llir 

lit.    'riic 

six  (ia\s 
t'avovalilc 
lavc  lit'cii 
is(»ii   is  sii 


LKAVINC    TIIH    1 1. MI  MOW. 


nv.) 


mifavnialilc,  tlio  ii'o  so  coinpiicl  mid  close,  tliiit  it'  we  had  an  oi)))ortunit  v 
t,,  >i;iii  iidith  it  would  not  hi;  at  all  advisalilc,  Avillioiit  a  supply  ol"  cual. 


y. 


r     ii 


In  risk  it  with  a  vt'ssel  like  ours  at  this  advanced  state  of  the  season. 
\Vf  must  leave  the  harbor,  for  delay  ikjw  will  must  probably  prove 


i 
1 

!   1 

'  .  V\ 

:i- 

ill 


'ti 


'I 


l]\4 


AMKIMCAN    KXI'LOItATIONK    IN    TIIK    K'l:    ZONKS. 


fatal;    wc   could   not    l':r\>  tlu;   vessel   alloat    in    her    present   eoiiiii 
(Iniinn'  another  winter,  and  will  he  eoni|)elled  to  run  iier  on  the  h.  ,, 
(>ii   tiie  11th   the  ice    in  the  straits  was  ol»serve(l  (o   he  dril'lin'^  >  .i, 
at  4.->U  on  the  day  lullowiny;  the  eiii^'ines  were  slarleil  and  the  sh:^ 
Thiink  (Jod  Iliivhor. 

W'itii  n'reat  earu  she  was  piloted  Ix'tween  heavy  Hoes,  JaliMi- 
iieiivily  all  niylit  and  at  .')  a.m.  of  the  loth,  was  |);issini;'  so  ^wii 
throiio'h  the  open  water  which  had  heen  sei-n  IVoni  ( )hst'i'\  alor\  11! 
that  it  Avas  necessary  to  shorten  sail  on  account  of  the  thicis  | 
Knterint^  an  iinpenetrahle  [)a(;k,  she  was  tied  to  a  lloe,  and  dril'teil  -, 


lull 

ll." 

Ill: 


I  111. 


IIIL- 


IIOL'.SK  UN   TlIK   ri-fiK. 

hours  slowly  down  tlie  channel,  inakin^^',  as  the  ice  here  ami  ili.;v 
opened,  very  short  advances  as  far  south  as  80"  01  ,  and  having  ii  ,ii 
encnigh  for  four  days'  steaniino-  only.  Leakinsi'  yet  more  hadh.  ^'iw 
suffered  several  very  severe  nips.  By  tlie  27tli  every  preparation  !:,nl 
been   made  to  abandon  lier. 

The  drift  during  the  ..onth  of  September  continued  (.'hiedy  iii\\;nil 
the  south  and  west,  averaging  not  nmcli  more  than  a  mih;  ,,  <l;iv. 
checked  at  times  by  the  southerly  winds;  on  the  third  of  the  niniiili 
she  was  in  hit.  70°  -^A'  N..  on  the  oOtli  only  in  TO"  Oii'.  Nine  huiidivd 
])Ounds  of  coal  were  used  daily  in  Avorking  the  puni])s,  and  many  phins 
tried  for  stopping  the  leak;  all  without  success.     As  it  was  evident 


!il 


TIIH    "I'OLAIMS       TO    UK    A IIANIK  >Ni:i). 


:'.l. 


('niiM;l|uii 
lie  !.  :rh.- 
ill,!;-  >'iiltli; 
11'  sli;;i  Irl'l 


hadly.  -!M' 


tlial  tilt-'  pJii'tyi  if  saved,  must  escapo  to  the  sln)rL',  a  house  for  tlie  line 
was  I'uilt,  of  tlie  diiiieusions   twenty-seven   feet  by  twenty-rntn- ;    the 


sivtie  experiences  of  the  month  foUowing  making,  however,  new  phms 
lacissavy.     October  12,  Cairn  Point  was  only  two  miles  to  the  south- 


^11 


'.\U\ 


AMKItHAN    KXl'liOllATloNS    IN     I'llK    Ki;    /i»Ni;s. 


i'iisl  ;  on   tlic  l^llii  (iiilc   I'niiil  wiis  diir  west  iit    iionii,  and  cm  tli<    |  || 


NortlinniluM'hind  Ishind  Wiis  in  sinht,  the  ship  drilling  slill  nimc 
under  a  noitliciist  lialc. 


I.i|'H||\ 


TIIK  SKI'AUATION. 
()('t(»h(M'   If)  at   7.'?()  r.  M.,  tlic  "  rdliiiis  "  ran  ain()n<r  icrl»ci! 


:>^  wliitli 


hroke  up  llic  line  to  wliicli  slic  was  at taclicil,  and  tlic  pads  iInMir^  i,, 
januucd  lici  licavily.  Slic  was  laiscd  np  l)odil_>  and  tliidwn  ovn  on  | 
port  side,  lici'  tindx'rs  crackt-d  witii  a  lond  report,  and  lier  sides  sciin, 
to  he  l)reakinjn'  in;  a.  piece  of  iee  heinj;'  reported  as  aelnalU  (hi 
thronj;li.  vVndd  the  vioh'nee  of  the  storm,  th(^  (hirkness  ol'  the  ni. 
and  t he  n'rindin^' of  the  iee,  |)rovisions  and  stores  were  ordered  in 
thrown  ont  on  t'u'  lloe.    'I  ids  woik  was  done  with  extraordinarv  v 


ii'i 


n-li 


l|>l>lll\ 


and  (h'vehtpinent  of  stiiMiyth,  unih-r  tht^  intense  exeitenient  ol"  Hir  Ihuh, 
The  records  ol"  the  FiXpedition  work  wvw  [)hieed  i'ar  back  npon  |||,'  i],,, 
witli  a  hiruje  amount,  of  |)rovisions  and  clothing,  und  tht;  two  hoals  wliid, 
I'eniained  were  also  lowered,  and  witli  tlu!  scow  placed  upon  it. 
At  !>..■>(!  I)v  some  chaiiijt;  in  the  iee  the  starboard  side  (d"  the  si 


lip  \V;b 


again   clear,  the  vessel   was  free  from  pi'cssni-e,  and  the  cracks  in 
i\i)c  began  to  open,  but    nnlortiinately  two  of  these  (nacks  lan  1 1 
the  p'aces  wlierj'  the  stern  anchors  had  been  planted,  bivakiic. 
hold,  and  the  anchors  dragging  under  tlu!  strain,  she  swung  idiiiid  ii 


irill|n|| 


lllil' 


I'arMcil 


mill 


the  forward  hawser.  It  slipped.  The  '' I'olaris "  was  rapidlv 
away  iVom  the  lloe  and  those  u|)oii  it.  The  night  was  blac 
st(Miny,  and  in  a  lew  nionieids  nothing  of  the  Hoc  or  of  the  men  dii  ii 
could  be  seen  through  the  drifting  snow.  Some  dark  forms  weiv  seen 
appai't'iitly  rushing  hopelessly  toward  the  shij);  the  voice  of  the  siewiiid 
was  lu'ard  calling  out,  "(iood-bve,  'Polaris' I" 


TIIK   TWO    PAltTIKS. 


iS  soo 


n  as  tlie  floo  disai)peai'ed,  a  nuister  on  board  the '' Polaris" 
was  answered  by  ]ourteen  of  tin-  coiii|)any,  vi/.:  the  captain,  ilic  t\V(. 
mates,  the  chief  of  the  scieiililic  corps,  and  the  astronomer,  tlic  Iwd 
engineers,  carpenter,  two  liremen,  and   four  seamen.     On   the  line  had 


NKAi;    MKsrUI  <  TloN. 


117 


li,.,.ii  '  Tl   niiiPit  <'ii,  vi/.. :  ('ii|it;iiii  'rvsmi,  Mr.  Mrycr  llic  iii('lr(intl(»j,'ist, 
ill,,  .^h  v\  iird,  the  cook,  six  sciuncti,  iind  t  lie  Ivskiiims,  Joe  iiiid  I  liitis,  wil  U 


i)S  were  siTii 
the  sli'wani 


IC  "  l*(il;itis" 
iiiii,  llic  IW" 

iier,  tiic  iwii 
the,  Hoc  1i;h1 


•ir  wives  and  children,   iiiehidiiifr  a  babv  horn  to   Hans  Autnisl  12 


and 


I  hen  christened  Charles  Polaris. 


ll 


(I 


?'  f 


!■ 


I    n 


I 


lis  AMi'.iMcAN   i;\ri,ni; Ai'ioNs  IN    iiii;  in;  /,(»m;s. 

Till'  lirsl   call    ii|miii  llif  slii|i's   ciiiiiiiiiiiv  at    lliis   liiiifdl'  iltrji 


"III 


iiiiM  liri|i|cs.sii('ss,  was 


III  III'  (III  llir   must    iiirfl'iil  JiMikiiiit    I'lir  tl 


II'  I  'iii|. 


if    thr  si 


ii|i.  (liivcii  as  she  was   rapiilly  I  liniiii;li  llir  iiiiil;Ii   sra,  \< 


lilies  111'  herns;    ant!  In  kee|i  it"  |Hissiltle  allnat.      'I'lie  reiiieiiilirai 


II'    ili.ii 


11. 


the    iinals    liail    lieeii   lelt    nii   the  line    enllld    nut    lessen    the   aiixiel 


til 


\  .   .Mil 


ir   ,   \- 


tlie  eiiL^'iiieers"  ie|Hirl  ol'  the  iiiereasiiij.';  leakage  was  alurmiiii;'  in  i 
lienie.  Tlu!  water  was  |iiiiiiinn'  in  so  rapiillv  that  they  feaicil  tin  iiii> 
wuiiiii  lie  put  niit  liel'iii'e  steam  eonlil  he  raised  tii  wurk  the  |>nni{i.  \\ 
the  water  I'nse  to  the  lii'e-|ilates  all  must    he  Itist,  ami  ni  this  mmih m  h 


w 


Iml 


W 


as  la|i|iiiiL;'  dver  the  llonr  (if  the  lire-riMim.      IIa|)|)ily  a  few  |iails  n| 
aler  iVnm  the  hniler  started  the  fmir  lai\L;'e  inaiiiMlcck  |)Um|is,  |i.  \\  | 
all   hands  were   instantly  calltMl,  ami   h\   tlimwhij^'   into   the   liir  i  \ri\ 
t'limhiistihle  material,  inelndiiiL!,-  seal-hliihher,  the  eiii^niieers,  aliei 
than  an  hour  of  the  severest  lahor,  ,i;(»t  tlii' steam  iiuin|i  at  wmk.    I 


ihh 


iimri 


I  r,ii 


idly  LS'anied  on  the  leak,  the  wind  died  away,  the  moon  showcil  In  im  li 
more  freiiiieiitly,;!  lew  stars  were  seen,  and  worn-out  men  yave  thriiisiUo 
up  to  lirokeu  slumhers.      IJut  where  wert;  the  iiuMi  on  the  line? 

Those  on   hoard  wakeil  on   the  morninn'  of  the  Ihtli   to  a  ealm  iiml 


ijlr 


clear  day.  Mr.  Chester,  from  the  Crow's  Nest,  iiud  Henry  Hohhy. 
<if  the  seamen,  with  a  i^ood  nhiss  examined  evcMTthiiiiL;-,  hut  eiuilil  mc 
no  Iivini4'  i-reature.  They  thou>;hl  they  saw  sonu^  of  the  provision^  uml 
stores  on  the  tloe  four  miles  distant  :  hut   others  felt  sui'e  that  tlii.s\\,i> 


bhiek 


iee  or  stone  or  i/t'/>n's 


Not 


one  o 


f  tl 


leir  comrades  (iould  lie  sirn, 


The  *' I'ohiris,"  herself  it  was  thouuht,  must  he  ahan(hined 


Mil'    IIIHI 


coal  enouu^h  for  a  few  (hiys  only,  when  a  hree/e  from  th(.>  niiillii;i>i. 
hreakiiii;-  up  thi'  icv,  an<l  making  hmes  of  water  towai'd  the  sIkhv. 
hront;ht  the  ship  to  hind.     Iler  stern-post  took  tlie  ground,  and  slii'\\,i> 


iset'ured  hy  lieavv  hawsers  to  large  grounded  liunuuc 
side  toward  the  heueh.     Every  prt'parati(ni  was  now 


cks,  1 


ler  slaihiMi 


to  he  made  I'nr  llir 


saving  of  life  on  shore  until  either  some  providential  rescue  sluiiilij 
ajipear,  or  the  ship's  company  could  huild  new"  hoats  and  escajie  lo  ilir 
south,  the  latter  of  these  two  eluinces  it  will  he  found  liecaiiit'  tin- 
necessity.    The  ]iosition  of  the  shi})  was  not  far  from  Littleton  Islaml. 

The  ship's  company  were  not  under  anxiety  for  the  means  nf  su>- 
taining  life,  although  their  stores  of  clothinu'  w'ere  verv  scant  v.  ami  iln  v 


'■''1 Ill 

I  III'     I    'UII'M' 

II,    I'. 1-1     llir 
'I'illM,     lli.ii 

l\i<'l  \.  .Mill 

;   ill    llic  cN- 

il     111.      liivs 

|.lllll|..       Il 

llliilih  III    II 

[mils  dl'  h,,i 

S,  111  W  lliili 
'  lire  r\iTV 
illlcr     IIHilT 

rk.    Il  r,i|i- 

,Vt'(l    llcr>rll' 
llirlliscl\r.> 

il  caliii  ;iiii| 

lldllilV.   iilir 

t  ('(iilM  Ml' 
isi(iii>  ;iiiil 
t  t  lii.s  \\,i> 

lit'    Sl't'll, 

;   slic  liml 

lliirllir;i>I. 

lie   slidiv. 

1(1  slir  \\,i> 

stiirliiianl 

tie  t'nr  ilii' 

lit'  slmiiM 

a|H'  111  liir 

t'caiUf    the 

11  Island. 

lis   (if   sus- 

.  and  llicv 


320 


AMERICAN   EXPLOIIATIONS   IN  THE  ICE  ZONES. 


m 


w 


M 


y^i. 


could  lK)pe  to  be  witljoiit  severe  discomfort  in  the  liouse  wliich  lii„| 
been  proni^jtly  built  on  shore  from  the  uuiterial  of  the  slsip.  Diiiino-  ih^ 
renuiimler  of  the  nu)nth,  and  through  the  winter,  and  tlie  fust  UKuitlis 
of  spring,  they  were  assisted  by  parties  of  the  Eskimos  from  l*]i;ili  iuid 
other  points,  but,  at  times,  had  the  usual  experience  of  fniding  the 
natives  a  great  discomfort,  by  their  frequent  visitations  and  dopt'iideiuc 
upon  the  shi[)  for  supplies.  Their  first  visit,  made  at  the  time  nf  the 
"Polaris"  taking  the  shore,  was  a  valued  help,  and  their  skill  in  the 
hunts  was  the  reliance  of  the  ship's  company ;  on  the  other  hiuid  the 
number  of  visitors  —  at  one  time  seventy-seven — was  a  trying  inllie- 
tion  by  their  want  of  cleanliness.  When  as  many  as  twentv-tliree 
began  to  sleep  on  the  floor  of  Polaris  House,  snow-houses  avcu-  I  milt 
on  shore  for  such  as  wished  to  remain  near  their  white  friends.  By 
May  1,  there  had  been  one  hundred  men,  women,  and  children  at 
l*olaris  House,  with  as  many  as  one  hundred  and  fifty  dogs. 

On  the  27th  of  the  month  two,  boats  for  the  journey  south  had 
been  built  by  the  dexterity  and  care  of  Mate  Chester  ;  their  (liinen- 
sions  were,  length  twenty-five  feet,  breadtii  five  feet,  and  depth  two 
feet  five  inches.  On  •'^he  two  days  following,  active  preparations  were 
made  for  departure;  on  the  second  of  these  days  almost  all  the  land-ice 
broke  away,  u.id  wli'i  it  the  "Polaris"  wont  adrift,  and  was  canieil 
about  two  hundred  yaxUs  towards  the  south,  where  she  again  grounded. 
At  high  tide  her  upper  deck  was  about  two  feet  below  the  surface!  of 
the  water.  Siemens  and  Hobby  went  out  to  her  in  the  little  scow  and 
fastened  two  largj  hawsers  to  her  from  the  rocks  on  shore.  It  was 
tlu)ught  she  might  be  driven  high  and  dry  upon  the  beach  in  the 
autumn,  and  furnish  to  the  Eskimos  a  supply  of  wood.  All  (d  her 
wliich  could  be  made  use  of  by  the  ship's  company  had  be'Mi  sccnn'd. 
and  either  worked  up  or  put  into  a  condition  for  further  use  mi  (he 
voyage.     The  rest  of  her  history  will  follow  that  of 


THE  DRIFT   OP  THE  FLOE  PARTY. 

Of  the  nineteen  persons  left  upon  the  floe  at  the  time  of  sepuratioii, 
some  were  carried  off  in  that  dread  hour  of  the  dark  night,  on  lirdkcn 
pieces  separated  from  the  main  floe,  which  was  a  large  one  ;  they  were 


SCANTY    IMIOVISIONS. 


3:21 


liKHi^lit  agivin  upon  it  by  the  boats,  the  articlos  which  had  been  placed 
(III  these  sinaUer  pieces  being  of  necessity  abuiKhmed.  At  nu(biight  in 
;i  iiiiiiding  snow-drift,  the  wliok;  party  hucUlled  together  under  some 
iiiu>l<-<ix  sKins.  Their  provisions  were  not  insufiicient  Tor  theii-  present 
lu'cessities,  and  tliey  had  besides  the  two  boats,  two  kayaks,  a  j:«uvas 
tt'iit.  and  some  instruments  of  navigation.  Tliey  were  not  far  from  the 
land,  and  in  Tyson  had  a  brave  and  able  captain. 

On  their  part  and  on  the  part  of  their  fellow-sutferers  on  the 
"■•I'dhiris,"  the  lirst  natural  object  was  to  learn  each  other's  position  and 
iv-iinite.  Quite  remarkably,  the  lloe  party  twice  saw  the  ship  on  the 
(lav  following  the  catastrophe,  and  made  signals  for  recognition,  but 
without  success.  Neither  Chester,  who  "for  several  days  was  up  and 
(|(i\\  n  the  mast-head  all  day  every  ten  or  iiftecn  minutes,"  nor  Hobby, 
i';niu>il  for  his  sharp  eye-sight,  was  able  to  distinguish  a  living  being  or 
a  signal.  Efforts  to  reach  the  ship  as  well  as  those  made  to  get  to  land 
were  alike  unsuccessful.  The  sole  expectation  before  the  men  on  the 
tlof  was  to  drift  with  it ;  possibly  at  some  happy  hour,  to  get  into  open 
Wiitcr  for  a  safe  boat  journey  south. 

Fioni  tliis  date  their  story,  during  the  severity  of  a  winter  pi-o- 
liiiiL^cd  through  March,  is  one  of  extreme  suffering  and  extreme  I'orti- 
ni(h'.  As  eariy  as  November  the  effects  of  exposure  and  want  of  pro])er 
loud  were  plainly  visible.  The  seals  caught  by  the  natives  were  almost 
the  only  available  i)rovisions,  and  these  were  hastily  eaten,  uncooked, 
mid  with  the  skin  and  hair  on.  What  little  remained  of  the  ship's 
>iiiit's  was  given  out  by  weight  by  an  ingenicuis  scale  devised  by  ^Iv. 
MrviT.  On  New  Tear's  day.  Captain  Tyson  dined  on  about  two  feet 
i.r  frozen  entrails  and  blubber,  and  only  wished  he  "-had  enough  of 
ihai":  the  natives  could  catch  nothing;  "the  daih"  allowance  was  a 
little  mouldy  bread."  The  rapid  consum[)tion  of  the  stores  was  telling 
>\\\\  more  severely  on  the  strength  and  endurance  of  all;  signs  of 
Miiivy  appeared.  IJefore  the  month  (dosed,  however,  seals  were 
(•;iiiL;'ht. 

1  he  lirst  four  days  of  I'\d)ruarv  were  dismal  ones,  as  the  l-'.skimos 
could  find  no  water  and  no  seals,  and  the  sufferings  of  the  (diihlreu 
li'iiii  hunger  were  painful  to  witness.     Tlu'  wind  blew  violently  from 


i      1 


■  U 


m 


Hi 


1- 


'1 


Im 


p  m 


Iw  iS 


^51^ 


3 .  ^& 


1     ^'-    . 

■  -  M 

322 


AMKUICAN   EXPLORATIONS    IN    THK   ICK   ZONES. 


the  iKtrth  and  wost,  and  tlio  smtw  drifted  heavily;  tlui  teinjiciaiun, 
ranged  tVoni  — 1(>°  to — 22°;  but  the  v/eath(;r  moderating,  on  Hk.  dm- 
folh)wing  these,  Hans  shot  a  sniiill  seal,  whieh  restored  8oni('\vli:ii  the 
spirits  of  the  ['art}-.  He  had  stniek  it  just  as  it  po[)ped  its  IkmiI  in, 
through  the  young  ice,  and  brought  it  from  a  distance  of  sixty  yards 
by  working  liis  way  to  the  Jloe  in  the  kayak. 

Uefore  tlu^  close  of  the  month,  the  allowance  of  provisions  Wiis  a^aiii 
recbu'cd  one  half — to  a  few  ounces  a  day  —  the  smallest  (plant i.iy  witl, 
whicli  life  could  be  sustained.  A  l)ear  track  was  seen  but  Nist;  !iiii 
thirty-seven  dovekies  were  brought  in,  every  part  of  which,  except  ilu^ 
feathers,  v»as  eaten.  Thes(!  birds  ar(^  very  small,  twenty  or  thirtv  (if 
them  making  only  a  nuxlerate  meal;  nor  do  they  make  warm  blond 
like  the  seal.     Tiie  thermometer  stood  — ?.0°. 

After  such  long  fasting,  a  too  free  indulgence  upon  an  ook-guok, 
caught  sho'.lly  afterward,  brought  new  suffering,  especially  to  iliusc 
who  ate  of  the  liver,  a  number  of  whom  were  sick  for  a  week,  losiiii';  tin- 
okin  of  their  faces,  hands,  and  chests.  So  crazy  had  their  appetites  lic- 
come  that  their  hands  and  faces,  at  this  feasting  inside  the  igloo,  wciv 
smeared  with  bh'  kI.  On  the  27th  a  fine  large  sea-bear  was  caught,  dl' 
whieh  every  part,  except  the  liver,  tasted  good. 

Ai)ril  1,  it  was  found  necessary  to  aban(h)n  the  now  wasted  iiiid 
unsafe  iloe;  the  party  took  to  their  only  remaining  boat.  It  was  oiu- 
intended  to  earrv  six  or  eit'ht  onlv;  but  at  this  time  she  had  in  hci' 
twelve  men,  two  women,  and  five  childroa,  with  the  tent,  soiiu- 
skins,  and  provisions.  Finding  her  loaded  too  deep,  one  huiidrcd 
pounds  of  meat,  and  nearly  all  the  clothing  were  thrown  overhdiud. 
Great  pains  were  taken  to  preserve  Captain  Hall's  writing-desk  and 
papers.  After  making  from  fifteen  to  twenty  miles  south  and  west  in 
the  pack,  a  landing  on  the  floe  was  again  made  at  noon  and  a  tent 
pitched.  Seals  were  now  so  easily  caught  that  no  apprehension  of 
want  was  felt. 

On  the  5th,  under  a  westward  gale  and  a  fearfully  high  sea,  i)icces 
again  and  again  broke  from  the  floe,  nudving  it  necessary  to  haul  even- 
thing  back  towards  its  centre,  one  piece  carrying  Joe's  hut,  its  inmates, 
however,  esca[)ing  at  the  eound  of  the  cracking  ice. 


ALMOST    rnUISH KI). 


ii28 


i 


'I'lic  lOtli  was,  perhaps,  the  most  (lungoroiis  (it'  all  tlit;  days  oxpori- 
eiicc'l  l)y  this  party.  At  1)  v.  m.  a  stuhhui  ahiiiu  was  <;ivcii  by  th(!  inau 
(111  uatcli,  wh(;ii  instantly  a  soa  washed  over  the  lloe,  cai  lyinjjf  awa}' the 
tent,  llie  skins,  Jind  most  of  the  hed-eh>thing.  Thi'  one  (thjcct  nctw  was 
to  save  the  boat.  Tor  on  tliis  their  lives  depended;  to  do  (liis  it  was 
necessary  for  the  nuMi  to  stand  on  eatdi  side  and  liold  on  with  all  their 
strciiu'lh.  Th(!  strong' ook-o-()ok  lines  wliicli  were  lastened  to  ])roj(!etin^' 
|i(iiiiiN  in  the  ice,  freiiuently  parted,  and  every  iit'teen  or  twenty  nunutes 
a  s;  it  eanie,  carrying  the  men  witli  it  to  the  oj»posite  edgi!  of  the  ice. 
Vet  they  held  on  from  nine  o'cloi-k  in  the  evening-  to  seven  the  next 
morning,  when  they  hinded  on  a  small  j)iece  of  iee.  Tlie  fatigne  and 
danger  eouUl  never  have  been  borne  but  for  the  three  mcsals  made  on 
tlif  seal  last  shot  by  Joe. 

And  yet  lie  was  once  more  to  he  their  preservin- ;  for  on  th(;  22d, 
when  t!ie  men  wcjC  lialf  drowned,  cold,  without  shelter,  and  without 
food,  on  his  fourth  venture  out  on  the  ice,  lie  saw  a  bear  eonung  towards 
liiiii.  Hurrying  back  for  liis  gun,  \w  returned  with  Hans,  and  the  two 
from  behind  the  humnu)ek,  kilhsd  him  iuslantl} .  But  for  this  success  the 
party  nuist  have  jierished. 


n 


i 


THE  KESCUE. 

Ih'lief,  however,  was  now  at  hand.  When  the  fog  opened  on  the 
morning  of  April  30  a  steamer  was  seen  close  to  the  fioe,  and  at  the 
boats  signals  her  head  was  soon  turned  towards  them,  and  one  hun- 
dred men  on  deck  and  aloft  were  returning  three  cheers  given  by  the 
shipwrecked  people. 

The  ship  proved  to  be  the  sealing  barkentine  "Tigress,"  Captain 
Martlett,  of  Conception  Bay,  Newfiundland.  The  position  in  which 
she  lay  was  lat.  53°  35'  N.,  off  Grady  Ilnrbor,  Labrador.  The  party 
thus  rescued  came  in  safety  to  the  harbor  of  St.  John's,  May  12,  and 
were  brought  to  the  Washington  Navy  Yard  by  the  U.  S.  Steamer 
"Frolic,"  Commander  C.  M.  Schoonmaker,  June  5.  The  northeastern 
coast  had  been  found  blockaded  by  the  iee  and  the  prevailing  east 
winds,  and  Commander  Schoonmaker  had  passed  more  than  one  hun- 
thed  bergs  and  floes  in  a  single  night. 


I   '.  V 


324 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE   ICE  ZONES. 


ii  ,1 , 


■•■I    .   .' 

1 

1    > 

t 

1     , 

1       ' 

i     1 

1 

i 

1 

i 

f     ':           ':      '. 

IM 

It  is  tlie  judgment  of  competent  officers  that  nothing  in  all  history 
has  equalled  the  i)reservation  of  this  ice-floe  party :  even  the  balx;  was 
saved.  Too  much  credit  can  scarcely  be  given  to  the  chief  of  the  imrtv, 
to  the  natives  on  whom  all  were  dependent,  or  to  the  individuals  tlnin- 
selves  for  their  heroic  fortitude.  Nor  is  it  less  remarkable  as  rcpK.. 
sented  in  the  report  made  by  the  Hon.  Secretary  and  his  collcauuts. 
June  10,  1873,  that,  "after  their  rescue,  although  enfeebled  Ijy  sciimv 
diet  and  long  exposure,  and  mentally  depressed  by  their  isolated  im,! 
unhappy  situation,  so  fearfully  prolonged  and  of  such  uncertain  issuu. 
the  general  health  of  these  hardy  voyagers  remained  good,  and  wiun 
their  trials  and  anxieties  were  ended,  they  soon  regained  their  usual 
strengtli."  The  drift  of  the  lloo  had  been  that  of  one  hundred  and 
ninety  days.  For  the  interesting  details  of  the  sufferings,  bardy  en- 
durance, and  final  safety  of  officers,  soamen,  and  Eskimos,  the  reader  is 
referred  to  the  volume  of  Admiral  Davis,  which  has  been  named.  The 
track  of  the  floe  Avill  be  found  marked  on  the  circumpolar  map  (Pocket 
of  the  present  volume). 

IIELIEF    SHIPS    SENT   FOR   THE   RESCUE   OF   THE    "POLARIS." 

The  information  brought  by  the  floe-party  concerning  the  situatieu 
of  the  ••  Polaris,"  when  last  seen  by  them,  induced  the  Navy  I)e[>art- 
meiit  to  take  prompt  measures  for  the  rescue  of  her  oflicers  and  crew. 
Two  vessels  were  dispatched,  the  sealing  vessel  "Tigress,"  and  rlie 
U.  S.  steamer  "Juniata."  The  "Tigress"  was  further  fltted  out  at 
the  Brooklyn  Navy  Yard  for  all  the  dangers  of  Arctic  navigation,  and 
the  possibility  of  wintering  in  the  north;  this  delayed  her  sailing  until 
Jidy  14.  Her  higher  officers  were  :  Commander  J.  A.  Greer;  Lieuten- 
ant Comuiander  H.  C.  White  ;  Lieutenants  Wilkins,  Berry,  and.Sehieo; 
with  Captain  Tyson,  ice-master,  and  ranking  as  Acting  Lieutenant. 

The  "Juniata"  was  made  ready  to  carry  coal  and  other  supplies  tor 
the  "Tigress,"  and  to  prosecute  the  search  lierself  as  far  as  was  jnudeiit 
for  a  vessel  not  built  or  strengthened  for  Arctic  navigation.  She  was 
under  the  command  of  Commander  D.  L.  Braine,  whose  chief  under- 
officers  were  Lieutenant  Comnuinder  Merriman,  and  Lieutenants  De- 


CRUISE   OF  THE   LAUN'CH. 


325 


Lout;'.  I(^e,  McClcllaii,  and  Chip[).  Tlio  "•Juniata"  entered  Sukker- 
toi)lH'n  'July  17,  llolsteinborg  on  the  18th,  and  Disco  on  the  -!Jtii.  Here 
('(.nnuander  l>raine  found  the  stores  left  by  tlie  "Congress""  and  the 
••I'dlaris"  a])parently  in  good  order  ;  lie  left  coal  and  other  simes  for 
till"  ••  Tigress."'  At  Upernavik,  after  considtation  with  Governor  Rn- 
ildlplu  he  endeavored  to  open  coiuniiniieation  with  the  "Polaris"  by 
means  of  tlie  Eskimos;  they  refused  to  go  North.  lie  learn(><l  that 
liulv  in  June  two  iMiglish  stcani-whalers  had  touched  at  Disco,  and 
having  been  informed  of  the  rescue  of  the  floe  part}'  and  probable  con- 
dition of  the  "Polaris"  had  promised  to  keep  a  look(»ut  for  her  on  their 
passage  north.  He  concluded  that  these  whalers  wt)uld  examine  the 
western  shore  of  Ballin's  Hay,  and  if  the  east  coast  were  now  examined 
hv  the  steam-launch  of  the  ".Juniata,"  the  "Tigress"  might  soon  pro- 
ceed on  the  direct  route  to  Northumberland  Island. 


DeLONG's  cruise   in   the   little   "JUNIATA." 

The  launch  was  sheathed,  her  bows  were  armed  with  iron,  and 
her  j)ropeller  guarded  with  an  iron  frame :  her  task  would  be  to  skirt 
the  fast  ice  of  the  coast,  collect  all  the  information  possible,  and  re- 
turn by  August  1,  which  would  probably  be  before  the  arrival  of 
the  "Tigress"  at  Upernavik.  She  was  provisioned  for  sixty  days, 
and  supplied  with  coal  for  seventeen  days'  full  steaming,  and  was 
connnanded  by  Lieutenant  DeLong,  whose  oflicers  were  Lieutenant 
C.  W.  Chipp,  and  Ensign  S.  PL  May  with  Mr.  LL  W.  Dodge  ice- 
pilot.  The  little  "Juniata"  steamed  northward,  winding  her  way 
among  the  icebergs  and  keeping  close  into  land.  August  4,  she 
was  shut  up  in  a  pack  consisting,  as  far  as  could  be  seen,  of  solid  ice 
from  one  to  two  feet  thick,  with  large  hunnnocks  and  icebergs :  on  the 
next  morning  she  again  entered  the  open  sea,  and  on  the  8th  saw  Cape 
Vtuk,  but  between  it  and  the  boat  o  solid  pack  of  three  or  four  feet  in 
thickness  through  which  an  opening  was  looked  for  in  vain. 

'J'he  little  launch  was  now  in  great  danger ;  the  wind  had  increased 
to  a  gale,  the  sea-spray  was  thrown  over  the  tops  of  the  bergs ;  the 
launch  at  times  was  half  buried,  shipping  large  quantities  of  water,  and 


?* 


'mi 


.  1 1 

M 


n 


326 


AMKiaCAN    EXI'LOIIATIONS    IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


*.  i, 


A     ■!' 


:1 
''1 

it  rained  in  torrents.  Sliu  remained  in  tliis  condition  for  thirl \  Ikhus 
during  which  a  iii'c  was  lighted  under  the  boiler  only  by  pouiinn' ,,[[ 
plentii'nlly  over  cotton  waste  and  junk,  as  the  matches  and  tiiidci  wci,. 
wet,  and  it  was  several  hours  before  a  friction  match,  kept  wr.w  tli(> 
skin,  hail  dried  enough  to  bo  lighted.  The  return  to  port  was  ikccs. 
sary.  DeLong  therefore  went  back  by  another  rouie,  that  of  tlic  mid. 
channel,  and  on  the  12th  communicated  with  the  "Tigress,"  wliidi  h;,,! 
now  arrived  at  Tessuissak,  and  rejoined  the  "Juniata"  at  Upernavik. 

August  ol,  the  "Juniata"  sailed  for  St.  John's,  aiul  on  anivin^r 
there  and  informing  the  Navy  Department  that  the  oilicers  and  crew  of 
the  "  Polaris  "  were  reported  to  liave  sailed  soutli  early  in  June  in  boats, 
was  instructed  by  the  Secretary  to^continue  the  search;  but  at  mid, 
night  of  Sej)tember  18,  when  sixty-five  miles  north  of  St.  John's,  was 
overtaken  by  the  British  steamer  "  Hector,"  which  informed  the  com- 
niander  of  tlu;  safety  of  the  "  Polaris"  party  ;  grateful  news,  which,  hav- 
ing been  telegra])hed  from  Dundee,  where  the  "Polaris"  party  was,  was 
taken  out  to  sea  from  St.  John's  by  U.  S.  Consul  Mollon. 

In  the  nu^antime  the  "Tigress"  had  sailed  from  Upernavik,  July  1 1, 
examined  Netik  Harbor,  on  the  14th,  and  the  same  day,  landed  al  i la- 
spot  occupied  by  the  Polaris  crew  the  preceding  winter. 

The  Polaris  House  was  still  standing,  with  its  bunks,  mattrass's, 
furniture,  galley,  etc.,  but  provisions,  instruments,  books,  and  stores  wc  re 
everywhere  scattered  along  the  shore.  The  "Tigress"  took  on  board  all 
the  manuscripts,  a  mutilated  log-book  and  all  other  books  not  torn  into 
pieces  ;  lU)  cairn  or  place  of  coi.eealment  for  records  was  found.  Cimu- 
mander  Greer  was  told  by  the  chief  of  the  Eskimos  that,  some  time 
after  the  departure  of  the  crew  of  the  "Polaris,"  she  had  broken  h<m 
her  hawsers,  forced  further  down  towards  the  passage  between  Little- 
ton Island  and  the  mainland,  and  sunk.  The  broken  hawsers  were 
seen,  and  the  chief  said  he  saw  the  ship  go  down. 

At  this  date  an  ice-pack  extended  across  Smith  Sound  northward  as 
far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  Commander  Greer  stood  southward,  passed 
Cape  York  near  enough  to  have  seen  signals,  but  could  learn  notliiu^' 
of  the  lost  party  on  his  way,  or  at  Tessuissak  or  Upernavik.  Ho  re- 
turned  to   Godhavn.      In   accordance   with   his  instructions  to  make 


ALL   OF    TIIK    roLAUIS    I'AUTV    SAKK. 


IVll 


thoiougli  seart'll,  ul'tur  relitliiig  at  Disco,  he  crossed  Duvjs  Straits  and 
lii,  il  to  <;et  into  Exeter  Soiuul,  but  found  the  ice  ])acked  ti<;ht  to  the 
j;Iii,i('.  October  4,  he  made  aiiotlier  run  to  the  northward  without 
iiui  tin;^  the  .;})jects  of  liis  search,  and  on  the  lOtli  of  Novendxn'  an- 
(iKuvd  in  New  York.  He  had  come  to  tlie  reasonablt?  conclusion  tliat 
the  Toiaris  party  liad  been  piidccsd  up  by  a  whaler,  having  learned  on 
tln.->  cruise  that  nine  had  expected  to  sight  Ca[)e  York.  The  rescue 
thus  autici])ated  by  Commander  Orecr  had  been  efl'ceted  under  the 
following  circumstances. 


r 
1 

i 

1 

! 

> 

f 

UKSGUE  OF  THE  POLAKIS   TARTY   BY  THE   "  KAVEXSCRAIO." 

Six  weeks  after  the  rescue  of  the  lloe  party  under  Tyson,  the  four- 
teen oHlcers  and  men  of  the  Expedition  who  had  been  left  on  the 
"I'olaris"  were  ready  to  take  up  their  still  hopeful  joiu'uey  to  the 
soutward.  While  waiting  the  day  of  departure,  Mr.  Bryan  and  Dr. 
Bessels  had  visited  Dr.  Hayes'  Fort  Foulke  in  order  to  determine  the 
meridian  difference  between  that  place  and  Polaris  House. 

The  stores  which  could  not  be  carried  away  were  now  carefully 
de])osited,*  and  on  the  3d  of  June,  1872,  the  two  boats'  crews,  under 

*  Captain  Nares  in  the  report  of  Ills  voyage  to  the  Polar  sea  says : 

On  a  visit  to  Life-boat  Cove,  July  28,  1875,  it  was  found  that  no  part  of  the  Polaris 
lioiise  remained  intact,  but  pieces  of  wood,  cases,  empty  tins,  ai.d  other  "odds  and  ends" 
iiiailicd  the  site.  Within  the  cairn  made  on  ♦'  -  departure  of  Budington's  party  nothing 
was  fomid,  but  apart  from  each  other,  and  without  any  protection  were  found  four  or 
live  boxes  each  covered  with  heavy  stones  and  containing  n)any  small  articles  of  great  use 
to  till!  Eskimos,  yet  apparently  xuidislurbed.  A  few  books  were  found,  but  no  pendulum, 
tnuisit  Instrument,  or  chronometer.  From  the  stores  left  by  the  ''  Polaris,"  the  English 
Expedition  of  1875  received  much  benefit,  an  acknowledgjuent  of  which  will  be  found  in 
Cai)tain  Nares'  Report.  Captain  Budington  liad  made  three  deposits;  lists  of  which  will 
1)0  found  on  pages  (IGB  and  0(51)  of  "  The  North  Polar  Expedition  of  1871."  ("aptain  Nares 
says  :  "But  for  the  valuable  deposits  of  provisions  established  by  the  'Polaris'  at  Hall's 
Rest,  [jieutenant  Beaumont  would  have  found  the  greatest  difficulty  in  obtaining  sup- 
plies." 

August  19,  1870,  Captain  Allen  Young,  of  the  "  Pandora"  (late  the  "  Jeannette" ).  (m 
a  visit  to  Polaris  Camp,  found  some  relics  of  Hall's  Expedition  which,  with  the  original 
records  left  on  Littleton  Island  in  a  cairn  by  Captain  Hartstene,  U.  S.N.,  when  cruising 
in  1855  for  the  relief  of  Kane,  he  forwarded  to  the  U.  S.  Government. 

A  bag  of  wheat  was  found  at  Polaris  Bay,  whicli  was  sent  to  the  Arctic  regions  from 
tlio  Smithsonian  Institution  of  Washington,  for  the  purpose  of  ascertainirjr  the  power  of 


r 

f 

H 


HUDINGTONS   PAUTV   hAXDS  OX    XOUTaUMBKRLAND    ISLAND. 


sill!-    Alloy 


qor 


21) 


Caiiliiiii  nil<liii,[^tiiii    luid    Mule   Clicslcr,   Icfl    \\\v   slion^   ol'   (lie    I'ohiris 


liiiii-. 


il(i\\  II 


lai.  7H"  -jir  .".0"  N.,  loiic'.  7;r  -jr  i<»"  w.  ui  2:.'m  a, 


M. 


IIIKl 


>t()(Ml 


llic  coast  witli  ii  I'iiir  wind,  Clicslcr   hciiii^f  ahead.     Soiilli  n|'  Cape 
.\li\:iiidci'  I  licy  caiiii!  toil  loost!  |»acl<  wliicli   tlic\-  could  not   enter,  and 


rclnnii 


(•(lur-i' 


Willi  so 


■d  to  Sorlalik.  Ijiuinclic(|  ai^ain  on  the  4th,  lli('\-  slia]icil  u  straight 
for  lliiklnvt  Islands  to  which  they  |inlled  l>y  1>.20  I'.M. ;  sleepintr 
nie  cond'oi't  anioni;'  the  rocks,  Inil  in  the  niorninL,^  liiidinL,Mlicni- 
sfjvcs  covcreij  with  snow.  ( )ii  the  '.Mh  they  elVcc^tcd  a,  (eni|ioraiy  hiiid- 
iiii;iiii  N'ortlunnhcrland  Isliuid  and  on  (hel^'.lh  hauled  upon  Dulrvinple 
Isliind. 

On  the  "JfJd,  aftdi"  Hourly  h)sin_t;-  on(!  oi'  the  hoats,  eaMi;lit  between  tho 
Hoc  and  the  pii(d<,  their  rescue  came  in  lilt.  75"  o8'  N.,  lon<^.  <!;">"  .')">'  W . 
At  10  A.M.  ol'  this  eventful  d;iy,  .Mate  Chester  had  elect  rilied  the 
company  '»y  eallint;'  out  "Ship  ahoy  I"  Tlu!  '  IJavenscraii,^ "  of  Kirk- 
c;il(lv,  Seothmd,  u   ♦iu'eci-niasled  steaniei',  was  distant    altout  t(Mi    miles 


on 


V,  fastened    io  the    laiid-ice.     'I'lie    I'olaris   Ihi'. 


'■  was 


hoisted    (tn    two 


oars  laslie(l  to<fetlier,  and  the  l)ai'(|U(!  answered  tin;  signal  by  runninLj 
up  her  ensioMi  as  soon  as  her  watch  in  tli(!  Crow's  Nest  could  niak(i  out 
tilt'  hoat  llajjf.  'J'hey  luul  at  lirst  taken  the  I'olaris  men  I'oi'  l''skini()S,  or 
for  II  boat  parly  from  some  lost  whaler;  this  last  idea  liad  ])eeii  cor- 
rected on  their  sceintjf  that  the  [)eople  on  tli(!  ice  wore;  hats,  since  all 
tli(!  Scotch  whalers  wear  cajis.  Captain  Allen  i)r())nptly  sent  ten  men 
with  shi[)-biscuit  in  tbcir  jjockets,  t(^  relievo  their  anticipated  exliaus- 


PY^/V  fCHOLSii 


oi'i'dls  to  rosist  th(^  cxtrcincs  of  cold.  After  an  cxposiirn  for  at  loast  four  successive  winters 
ami  lliroe  simniicrs  at  Polaris  liay,  out  of  a  small  sanii)li^  tried  at  Kevv,  England,  by  Sir 
•loscpli  Ilooiii-r,  sixty-two  per  cent  germinated;  the  rest  of  this  grain  was  returned  to  the 
Siiiitlisoiiiau  Institution. 

All  tlie  records  and  articles  brousilit  froin  Polaris  Bay  and  tlm  boat-camp  in  Nciwnian 
Bay,  together  with  the  American  ensign  which  was  hoisted  over  tli(>  grave  of  Captain 
Hall,  (luring  the  stay  of  our  mer  in  the  neighborliood,  were,  on  the  return  of  the  Kxpedi- 
tioii  to  England,  forwarded  l)y  the  British  Admiralty  to  the  United  States  (Joverumcnt. 
A  dironoineter  found  at  the  boat-iamp,  after  four  years'  exposure  to  the  vicissitudes  of 
Arctic  temperature,  kept  excellent  tii  \e  from  the  period  of  its  arrival  on  board  the  "Dis- 
covery," until  that  shii'  returned  to  Englaii.l  'n  November,  1870.  Sent  by  the  Admiralty 
to  Washington,  it  was,  after  being  cleaned,  issued  to  the  TT.S.S.  "  Qninnebaugh,"  on  wliich 
-liip  it  again  did  good  service.  Ketm-ned  to  the  U.  S.  Naval  Observatory  on  the  termiua- 
tidii  of  the  cruise,  it  was  reported  by  Lieutenant  Moore  as  late  as  January,  18S2,  as  having 
an  excellent  temperatm-e  rate.     It  is  a  trophy. 


>'  I 


!■-■ 


TVSON'S  CREW  SIGHTING  TlIK  SUOTCII  WllALEU  WIIIOll  UKSCJUKD  TIIKM  OFF  LAUICVUUK. 


AWAKDS    nv    CoNliltr.SM. 


:}.">1 


ti(ni,  to  l)ring  them  on  hoii.d,  iiiid  to  coiiiimuiiciitc  tlic  j^ratrful  imdli- 
(feiK'i'  tliiit  tlieir  ('oiiuadi's  on   tlic  icc-tloc  luul  l)i;oii  jiickccl  iiji. 

Till'  reelings  ol' ("ajitaiii  Uiidington's  iiarty  iiuiy  he  imagined.  Tliey 
hud  never  doul)ted  their  al)ility  to  reiudi  the  Danish  setth'nients,  had 
iU'('iiiii|ilishe(l  onediair  the  distance,  had  ahiiiuhinco  of  jtrovisions,  and 
wcir  innit'il  to  hardsliip,  hnt  tiu;  most  dangerous  i)art  of  their  journey 
thriiiiLjli  the  opening  i(!0,  tho  gahis  of  wind,  and  heavy  seas  were;  still 
liel'iPii'  their  small,  shallow,  flat-hottomed,  unseaworthy  boats.  At  t»  p.m. 
tlic  Kscued  men  were  on  their  weary  tramp  over  the  rotten  iee  and 
soft  snow,  arriving  at  the  ship  at  midnight,  ('ai)tain  Allen,  his  sur- 
gciiii.  mat(!,  and  crew  took  every  earc*  of  the  suffering  party. 

The  winder  not  having  finished  her  eruise,  and  Ixnng  unlitted  for 
carrying  ])assengers,  transferred  them  to  other  vessels  homeward  hound. 
Klevi'u  arrived  at  Dundee  in  the  '' Arctic"  Septend)er  10,  smd  at  New 
York,  Oi'toher  7,  the  remaining  thret;  reached  Dundee  in  the  "Eric" 
October  22,  and  New  York  in  November. 

l)y  an  act  of  Congress  approved  June  28,  187-4,  compeusatiou  ami 
acknowledgment  were  authorized  to  be  nuule  to  the  owners,  oHicers  and 
sailors  of  all  the  relief  ships,  and  also  to  ea(;h  of  the  men  wlio  walked 
on  the  i(!e  to  rescue  Cai)tain  liudington's  party.  The  ca[)tains  of  the 
"i^ivenscraig,"  "Arctic;,"  "Intreiiid,"  and  "Eric,"  were  further  informed 
by  the  Navy  Department  that  each  was  at  liberty  to  purchase  a  gohl 
pocket  elironometer,  and  to  have  inscribed  thereon  that  it  was  a  tokiui 
of  the  gratitude  of  the  L-nited  States  for  their  kindness  to  the  otlicers 
and  men  of  the  "Polaris." 


RESI'ME   OF    hall's   THltEE   EXPEDITIONS. —  HIS   CHARACTEU.* 

The  three  Expeditions  of  C'aptaiu  Hall,  together  with  the  weary 
lahors  of  preparation  preceding  each  of  them,  are  his  best  memorials. 
Tile  narratives  of  liis  first  voyage  and  of  his  third  —  the  "Polaris" — are 

*  The  judgments  expressed  in  this  riosuiiu',  which  was  prepared  hy  tlie  author  for  the 
close  of  "  Hall's  Second  Expedition,"  have  been  since  fully  confirmed  by  those  "xprcissed 
in  a  number  of  letters  received  from  Arctic  voyagers,  including  Captain  Allen  Yo  uig.  The 
truthfulness  of  some  of  Hall's  statements  in  his  notes  will  be  found  confirmed  in  the  next 
chapter  of  this  volume.     And  it  should  be  said  here,  once  for  all,  in  reply  to  a  recent  com- 


IfF  LAlilJuVDUU. 


vt 


'  M' j! 


n. 


332 


AMKItK'AN    KXri-»»KATIONS   IN   TIIK    IPK   ZON'KS. 


sulllicit'lit  ti)  disprove  tlus  iiU'ii  sninctiincs  Imstily  tixprcsscd  {\\n[  I,,.  \y.,,^ 
a  iiuMc  i^MuiiJiiit  iiiid  visionary  drcaiiua';  and  tlio  iniprcss  on  the  miiuls 
of  thost!  who  liavii  inspi'ctcd  tliu  pruiust!  and  often  L;iaiilii(!  joiiinuls  ol' 
his  Expeditions,  has  heen  such  as  the  evi(h'nees  of  a  eontinuoiis  Ir.iiik 
tnithl'ulness  ei'eate,- -  the  niaiMrestation  of  an  inthiniitahh-  will,  cntiiry^ 
and  pei'severanee  in  the  (h-vout  [»iirsiiit  of  the;  two  oi)jects  which  Inivc 
heen  discussed.  l\v  lielii'ved  them  attainahlo,  and  believed  hiniMlf 
ealk'(l  to  liieni  as  to  his  life-work. 

'IMu!  testimony  of  one  who,  next  to  his  constant  friend.  Air.  (JriiiucH. 
could  hest  estimate  his  character,  is  emphaticidly  clear  to  the  ptiiui  ilmi 
Hall  was  a  single-minded,  trusting  man,  who  l)elievud  that  otluns  utiv 
lik(!  himself,  and  that  he  woidd  iind  them  such.  In  this  he  often  fniunt 
an  experience!  of  disap|)ointment.  His  enthusiasm  ciuu-ernin'^-  lii> 
favorite!  ohject  was  extreme  and  abiding,  and  gave  tone  and  color  in  nH 
his  words  and  a('ls.  His  very  want  of  general  knowledge,  and  his 
deliciencies  in  special  departments  of  s(!ieuco  nuule  him  uuire  lit  f(;r  ;iii 
ex[)lorer  than  a  scientist  could  have  been.  Ho  looked  u[>on  ex[»loniti(iiis 
and  all  which  appertained  to  the  increase  of  geographical  knowledge  iis 
far  above  all  else;  and  this  explains  the  career  of  one  who  had  sihh  a 
childlike  purpose.  The  nu)ve  information  he  could  gather  the  hapiiior 
he  felt.  It  was  indeed  the  disappointment  produced  by  the  obstack's 
thrown  in  his  way  on  his  third  l''xi)edition  which  probably  caused  his 
death.  In  the  lack  of  all  [)ersonal  actiuaintance  with  Hall,  this  jiitlj,'- 
ment,  expressed  by  Mr.  J.  (Larson  lirevoort,  of  Brt)oklyii,  and  conliriiu'd 
by  that  of  others  in  the  city  of  New  York,  as  well  as  in  New  Londdii, 
and  Washington,  has  been  the  more  willingly  received  by  tlu!  writer  of 
this  narrative. 

Oilicial  and  other  public  acknowledgments  of  Hall's  worth  have 
freely  appeared  in  the  language  of  the  National  Academy  of  Scicnct's 
at  the  time  of  the  going  out  of  the  Third  Expedition,  in  the  trust  re- 


plaint  from  the  English  Captain,  W.  P.  Snow,  that  "  Hall  was  not  the  author  of  tin-  '  Aniic 
Researches,'  published  by  Harper  Brothers,  in  1864,"  that  Hall's  journals  and  nett- 
books  of  his  Second  and  Third  Expeditions  so  closely  exhibited  the  same  style  :iiul 
characteristics  with  the  language  of  the  "Kesearches"  of  1804-(J!> as  to  idei.ufy  liiiii  un- 
questionably as  the  author  of  that  volume.  Captain  Snow  was  for  a  short  time  only  UaUs 
assistant  in  preparing  it.     His  own  English  naval  record  is  acknowledged. 


TitmrTi':  ntoM  tiik  ntKNcir. 


'.V.\:\ 


.,,,.,(1  in  liiin  l»y  tiui  Kxi-cutivt!  when  ^iiiiiting  liini  the  comniissiim  of 
Cipiiiin  of  the  "  I'ohiris  "  in  ISTl,  in  the  iiwiird  of  the  ^ohl  medal  d" 
"Hie  UixjUette  FuUIKhition  "  by  th(!  Sin'iet^  di-  (n^oi/ftip/iii;  (if  i*iiiis, 
ainl  ill  the  .rihntes  imid  to  his  worth  by  Cuptain  Sir  (ieortje  Nares  at 
his  '^ravt!  in  the  tar  north,  and  in  his  ol'lieial  rejiort  of  this  Knglisli 
Kxiiiiliiioii  of  isT"). 

The  extreme  diseondorts,  expctsures,  and  hdxtrs  inei(h!nt  to  u  ri'si- 
(Icnce  auKMiy  the  Eskimos  were  not  unforeseen  when  even  he  entered 


v-'V\)''.  ^ 


Fr«ncis  hall  Y'  '('j 

EXPLORATION         \\^  l'^'' 

DU    POLARIS  )'■"  ^.  ^ 

AU     NORD    DU         ,ft'^y-i 

SMITH      SOUND     /  V   V;^ 

V       1871-187S       /.h':-'^  I 


0^ 


5^  Aj-C^  .■/.'-<  ^^ 


Mnliil  .iwiirclfil  liy  till'  (l<'(i;;ra|)1iii'ul  Sih-hMv  of  I'lirls.  to  Caiitiiiii  <'.  V.  i.ill,  as  tin;  "  proniotor-iii- 
iliirl  "I  lilt'  I'dlaris  Jv\|ii'(litii>ii,  Mint  us  otliciwisi'  diH'  liiiii  In,-  )iis  ipicvloiis  labors."  Kor  Uk'  I!c|iiirl  nf 
ihr  fipiiiiiiissioii  i>f  Awanl,  V.  A.  Alaltc-Mniii,  cliiff,  nim'  tlit'  liiii'  '''i  of  tl.<'  fiocifty  for  tlus  year  IsT.'i, 
ami  Ailiiiiral  Davis'  voliiiiu',  pano  (ilTi.  An  cliM'tlolyiM-  of  tliis  inciial,  stnu'U  at  tlif  .Mini  ill  I'lirit!,  wiw 
|i:iil  <A  I  hi'  Ari'llc  ColU'clioii  plai'i'il  liy  tin:  I'.  S.  Naval  <  ilisi  rvalory  at  I  hi'  (ciiti'iiiiial. 

iiiiiMi  his  First  Exjjedition  ;  and  his  experience  then  must  have  neci-s- 
siirily  h'd  him  to  anticipate  that  greater  trials  wonld  he  his  h)t  on  a 
loiiyci'  hanislnnent  from  civilized  life,  and  the  cond'orts  of  home,  lint 
Ik;  avowed  witli  sincerity  that  he  Ayonld  he  willinf^ly  al)sent  for  a  term 
of  tell  years  at  h-ast  if  lie  saw  a  pros[)ect  of  success.  He  felt  that  he 
ciiiild  trust  his  two  Eskimo  friends  duriuijj  so  hmpj  a  stay,  and  yet  it 
sitiiis  siu'prising  that  with  even  their  help  he  could  on  his  second 
viiynnc  control  unharnied  so  many  of  the  Tunuits,  sul)ordiiiaie  their 
(lii(T.  Ou-e-la,  to  his  purpose,  and  secui'e  with  such  slender  I'csourccs  as 
iiiiich  success  as  he  attained.  His  notes  say:  "Nothing  hut  an  exjieri- 
(iii'c  of  years  could  enable  me  to  control  such  untamable  eagles."  Cer- 
tainly  tlie    presence    or  at  times  expected  return  of  the  whalers  to 


II 


Wfm 

f^f 

ill' 

1 1- 

r^ 

;«:i 


1-, 


334 


AMEllICAN   EXPLDIIATIOXS    IN    TlIK   ICE   ZONES. 


Repulse  Bay  and  other  localities,  had  much  to  do  with  his  iil)ili,v  t,, 
Hiaintaiu  his  authority,  and  next  to  this  was  his  ability  to  sunjiU  tl„, 
wants  of  the  natives  when  suffering;  and  yet,  ])erhaps,  above  lidil,  of 
these,  must  be  placed  his  politic  concessions  to  their  low  prejudices  mid 
his  self-control.  Very  fre(|uently  in  his  journals  appear  proofs  of  Imstv 
judgments,  and  of  suspicions  of  evil  intentions  agahist  hhnself  hv  the 
whaling  captains  a^J  well  as  the  Innuits,  but  as  frequently  appear  also 
proofs  of  his  repressing  such  feelings,  and  of  his  recording  his  ic^ivts 
at  having  given  i)lace  to  them  in  his  Ifeart  or  in  liis  notes.  The  iiiiiiicr- 
ous  delays  experienced  by  his  restless  spirit  from  the  indolence,  and 
especially  from  the  superstitions  of  the  natives  —  delays  too  at  critical 
times  —  were  trying  to  the  temper.  They  were  placed  to  the  wiono' 
account  when  they  gave  room  for  his  imagination  to  credit  tlu'iu  in 
purposes  of  evil.  But  his  feelings  were  naturally  stirred  with  sdiiu- 
thing  besides  pity  when  he  found  himself  unable  to  obtain  proper  assis- 
tance in  the  hut,  or  move  forward  on  a  journey  because  the  Inmiits 
would  neither  eat  nor  sufler  others  to  eat  on  a  given  day,  or  woik  until 
a  certain  time  was  passed,  — to  estinuite  all  which  aright,  Hall  nuist  lie 
thought  of  as  a  single  white  man  alone  among  the  degraded,  and  haliitu- 
ating  himself  to  such  degraded  modes  of  life  with  them  as  can  l)c 
excused  only  in  the  light  of  his  subordinating  everything  to  his  (ine 
purpose,  and  of  his  so  living  in  order  to  avoid  the  visits  of  the  sciuvj. 
He  ex])erienced  none  of  these. 

It  will  be  a  harsh  criticism  which  pronounces  his  judgment  delLH't- 
ive  or  his  exercise  of  it  hasty.  He  demonstrated  the  correctness  of 
the  belief  he  entertained  from  the  first,  of  his  being  able  to  live  for  a 
long  period  otit  of  the  pale  of  civilized  life  b}'  las  own  passing  tlir(iUL;h 
it  thus  without  an}'  i)rotracted  or  extreme  suffering.  He  was  not  then 
far  out  of  the  way  in  supposing  that  some  of  the  Franklin  men  niit;lii 
2)ossibly  be  found  as  survivors  among  the  Eskimos. 

His  ability,  industry,  and  perseverance  manifest  themselves  in  the 
long  continued  absence  from  tliO  endearments  of  his  ct)untry  ami  lidnic; 
and  in  his  victories  over  what  seemed  to  be  insurmountable.  Tliidugh 
the  years  of  struggle  for  an  outfit,  hope  was  more  than  once  nearly 
crushed  at  the  moment  when  success  seemed  sure ;  at  the  time  of  liis 


FASCINATION    FOll    AllCTIC    LIFK. 


3:55 


first  laiiiling  011  the  Second  Exi)editi()n,  the  mistake  of  his  captain  (;ost 
liiin  a  wiiole  3'ear's  advance;  on  his  lirst  practicable  advance  inovemcnt 
liis  I'lig'htened  party  then  turned  back  their  steps ;  when  provisions  and 
stores  were  again  ready,  he  could  secure  no  team,  and,  alter  a  severe 
iduniey  in  mid-winter  on  his  return,  could  obtain  no  men;  and  when 
at  last  at  the  end  of  the  fifth  year  of  the  Second  Exijcdition  —  the  ninth 
di'  expectation  and  of  effort  —  he  stood  on  King  William  Land,  it  was 
t(i  he  hurried  away  before  the  summer  sun  could  lift  the  snow  pall 
tVdiii  the  treasures  he  was  seeking. 

Would  it  not  have  been  the  record  of  many  others  that  after  grap- 
pling with  some  only  of  such  dilliculties,  they  would  have  found  them- 
selves at  the  close  of  any  one  year  of  disappointnuiut,  safe  on  board  the 
h()S[)itable  whaler?  Would  not  many  have  justified  themselves  when 
lot  liming  to  their  country  and  re[)orting  insuperable  obstacles?  Kx- 
[icditions  largely  equipped  and  led  by  men  of  Arctic  experience  and 
biuvo  heart,  have  more  than  once  so  returned  to  be  justilied  and 
hoiKired  by  their  countrymen.  Hall  had  an  uncomjuerable  determ illa- 
tion to  accomplish  something,  and  if  this  be  called  a  mere  enthusiabui, 
it  was  an  enthusiasm  which  led  him  to  endure  and  fight  his  way,  and 
patii'iitly  await  new  issues  and  endure  and  (lompier.  Without  such  an 
iron  will,  he  would  never  have  remained  within  these  desolate  regions 
through  five  Arctic  winters,  enduring  the  si^ualid  wretchedness  of  llu^ 
snow-huts;  nor  have  made  his  sledge  journeys  to  Pelly  Bay,  to  Cape 
Weyiiton,  to  Ig-loo-lik,  to  Fury  and  Hecla  Straits,  to  Lyons  Inlet,  and  to 
King  William  Land;  aggregating  more  than  three  thousand  miles, 
liis  voyage  out  to  the  Arctic  Regions  and  return,  and  his  surveying 
work  around  Repulse  Bay,  and  the  sledge  journeys  just  referred  to,  foot 
up  a  considerable  excess  over  ten  thousand  miles. 

It  has  not  been  out  of  place  to  say  that  besides  the  extreme  of 
enthusiasm,  a  fascination  for  Arctic  life  laid  hold  upon  hiin  —  the 
laseiiiation  which  in  one  form  or  another  makes  the  traveller  restless 
wiiilo  off  from  his  journey  as  it  does  the  sailor  when  off  the  sea;  a  fiis- 
( ination  which  has  been  one  of  the  features  of  the  most  interest  in  all 
the  records  of  the  Arctic  Explorations,  notably  in  the  case  of  the 
renewed  voyage  of  Franklin  when  he  with  Back,  went  out  on  his  second 


'i  ! 


■A 

!|i 


!  3i 


m 


ft?   r. 


|.  ;..: 


i  i' 


;1 


I, 


ilir  ii 


1:1  i 


I 


if'      i 


It 


i-M 


!   I 


386 


AMEIIICAN   EXPLO..ATIONS   IN   THE  ICE  ZONES. 


laii'l  journey.  If  it  seem  strange  to  the  landsman  that  the  shipwrecked 
mariner  is  ready  for  a  new  eriiise,  and  in  his  own  feelings  someihues 
safer  in  a  sttn'ui  at  sea  than  on  land,  it  is  as  strange  to  contemplate  iIm- 
eager  return  to  Aretic  adventure  and  dangers  by  such  sufferers  as  Frank- 
lin,  liaek,  Richardson,  Hall,  their  (  omrades  and  followers.  Faiih  iu  aii 
overruling  Providence  and  in  the  cardinal  doctrines  of  the  Christian 
religion  was  evidently  inwrought  in  them;  iu  Hall,  probably,  from  ilu- 
date  of  his  earliest  home-training.  Full  expression  of  this  is  found  in 
his  journals.  ' 

The  weakest  part  of  the  record  for  the  years  of  which  the  narrative, 
especially  of  the  Second  Ex[)edition,  speaks,  is,  perhaps,  his  perniiitino' 
himself  to  turn  aside  from  the  long-proposed  journey  to  King  William 
Land  and  lose  a  year  by  his  visit  to  the  Straits  of  F'ury  and  lltcla. 
His  motive,  ho^vever,  for  this  was  sincerely  in  keeping  with  the  purposes 
of  the  Expedition.  The  i)OHHih'd[t ij  of  yet  finding  a  survivor  of  Frank- 
lin's party  again  loomed  \\\^  before  his  enthusiastic  view,  and  In;  tlidu^lit 
himself  lully  justified  in  making  search  for  traces  of  those  of  wlumi  ihu 
Innuits  so  coniidently  and  unitedly  spoke  as  existing  in  tlie  [leiuiisula. 
In  confirmation  of  this  last  remark,  it  is  in  place  here  to  refer  to  ilu- 
following  recent  statement  in  relation  to  this  visit  to  these  Stiaits. 
Captain  William  Adams,  of  the  Dundee  whaler  "Arctic,"  o]i  his  n-tiiin 
from  his  cruise  of  1881,  reported  that  while  his  ship  was  within  lit'ticn 
miles  of  Fury  and  ITecla  Straits,  a  young  and  intelligent  Eskimo  told 
him  that  when  he  was  a  young  man  in  his  father's  hut,  three  men  came 
over  the  land  toward  Repulse  Bay,  and  that  one  of  tlie'm  was  a  o'lcai 
captain  when  he  died.  The  other  two  were  in  sore  distress,  and  ciicil 
very  much,  stating  that  he  was  the  "anigak,"  or  great  cai)tain.  Tin  sc 
two  lived  some  time  in  his  father's  hut,  and  he  showed  Captain  Adams 
the  spot  on  tlie  chart  Avhere  they  were  buried.  The  Eskimo,  continuin.' 
his  narrative,  said  that  seventeen  persons  started  from  two  ve^^sds 
which  had  been  lost  far  to  the  westward,  but  only  three  were  able  ti» 
survive  the  journey  to  his  father's  hut.     Strange  traditions  I 

From  all  the  information  furnished  by  the  Eskhno,  Captain  Adams 
has  no  doubt  that  the  A'-'ssels  referred  to  were  those  of  the  Franklin 
Exi)edition,   and    that    the    great    captain    mentioned  was   Lieutenant 


TRIBUTES   TO   HALL  BY  THE   ENGLISH. 


387 


Crozier.  "Assuming  that  what  the  Eskimo  stated  was  correct,  it  is 
beyond  doubt  that  the  members  of  the  Franklin  Expedition  were 
attempting  to  reach  the  Hudson  Bay  Territory."  Judging  from  the 
present  age  of  the  native,  Captain  Adams  is  of  opinion  that  his  allusion 
to  Iiaving  seen  the  men  when  he  was  a  young  man  must  refer  to  a 
period  some  thirty-hve  years  ago.  Captain  Adams  is  the  navigator  wlio 
rendered  assistance  to  the  floe  party  from  the  "  Polaris,"  which  was 
rescued  by  the  "  Ravenscraig."  If  Hall's  judgment  was  at  fault,  his 
motives  were  as  commendable  as  they  had  been  when  expressed  in  the 
driuightiiig  of  the  plans  for  his  fii  .t  outfit,  or  when  he  wrote  in  answer 
to  Lady  Franklin's  proposal  that  he  should  go  out  a  third  time  for  the 
record:  "As  for  pay,  I  should  ask  nothing." 


nm 


t. 


Sir  George  Nares,  commanding  the  late  English  Expedition  of  1875, 
luas  recorded  in  his  official  report  to  Parliament  his  testimonials  to 
Hairs  fidelity  as  an  Arctic  explorer :  — 

"  The  coast-line  was  observed  to  be  continuous  for  about  thirty 
miles,  forming  a  bay  bounded  toward  the  west  by  the  United  States 
riinge  of  mountains,  with  Mounts  jNIar}^  and  Julia,  and  Cape  Jose[)h 
HcMiry,  agreeing  so  well  with  Hall's  description,  that  it  was  imjiossible 
to  mistake  their  identity.  Their  bearings  also,  although  differing  up- 
wai'ds  of  thirty  degrees  from  those  of  the  published  chart,  agreed  pre- 
cisely Avith  his  original  report.  It  was  impossible  to  mistake  their 
identity." 


I-  • 


hall's  grave. 

The  grave  in  which  Captain  Hall  Avas  buried,  Nov.  10,  1871  (see 
Chap.  VIII.,  page  298),  in  the  month  of  July  following,  was  found  un- 
disturbed, and  was  then  made  to  present  a  better  appearance  than  had 
been  found  practicable  in  November,  when  the  ground  was  frozen.  It 
was  surrounded  Avith  stones,  soil  transported  to  it  and  a  few  plants 
set  out.     A  head-board  bore  the  inscription :  — 

To  the  momory  of 

C.  F.  Hall, 

Late  Comman-CT  of  the  North  Polar  Expedition;  died  Nov.  8,  1871. 

Aged  50  years. 


H: 


V 

P|if"' 

\  \  ' 

1 

'  i 


N3: 


If        " 


338 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE  ICE  ZONES. 


To  which  inscription  in  July,  1872.  Mate  Chester  added  tlie  words:  — 

"  I  am  the  Resurrection  and  the  Life:  he  that  believeth  on  me,  tliou^!.  he  were  duad 
yet  shall  he  live." 


CAPTAIN  HALL'S  GKA\E. 

On  the  13th  of  May,  1876,  in  the  presence  of  twenty-four  offioers 
and  men,  Captain  Stephenson,  of  the  English  Expedition,  hoisted  tlie 
American  flag  over  the  grave  of  Captain  Hall,  and  at  the  foot  erected  a 
brass  tablet  which  had  been  prepared  in  England,  bearing  tlie  follow- 
ing inscription :  — 

Sacred  to  tho  memory  of 

Captain  V.  F.  Hall, 

Of  the  U.  S.  S.  "Polaris," 
"Who  sacrificed  his  life  in  tlie  advancement  of  Science,  November  8,  1871. 
This  tablet  has  been  erected  by  the  British  Polar  Expedition  of  187;"), 
Who,  following  in  his  footsteps,  have  profited  by  his  experience." 

He  also  reported  to  daptain  Nares  tliat  the  grave  was  found  in  an  ox(h^1- 
lent  state  of  preservation.    The  willow  planted  by  Tyson  was  still  alivo. 


vi' 


JOE  AND  HANNAH. 


339 


THE   ESKIMOS. —  HALLS   COMPANIONS. 

At  the  close  of  this  narrative  of  Hall's  work,  it  may  be  conceded  as 
soiiH3tliing  due  in  simple  justice  to  the  two  Eskimos  wlio  have  been  so 
fitMiueutly  named  within  the  previous  pages,  that  a  few  items  of  their 
i)ersonal  history  be  recorded.  Through  all  the  trials  of  Hall's  three 
expeditions  —  a  period  of  more  than  ten  years,  —  they  were  not  only 
his  steadfast  friends,  but  indispensable  supporters,  without  whom  he 
cduld  never  have  carried  forward  his  investigations,  or  have  kept,  in 
some  emergencies,  even  his  life  among  the  Innuits.  Joe  Ebierbing 
was,  as  has  frequently  appeared  in  the  narrative.  Hall's  dependence 
as  hunter.  On  repeated  occasions,  by  his  native  skill  in  the  use 
of  the  lance  and  line  and  by  his  readily  learned  use  of  the  rifle,  he 
nrocured  food  in  the  darkest  days  of  want,  not  for  Hall  alone,  but 
often  for  the  less  skilful  and  suffering  Innuits  around  him ;  maie- 
rially  aiding  liall  by  this  beyond  the  bare  support  of  the  lives  saved, 
and  gaining  for  the  expedition  lasting  good  will  and  help.  Hannah 
was  ])erhaps  the  more  intelligent,  and,  as  a  woman,  naturally  of 
quicker  perception  in  the  things  of  every  day  life,  which  would 
serve  tlu;  necessities  of  the  white  num  among  strangers.  Slu;  proved 
an  interpreter  without  whom  every  effort  to  understand  the  natives  (jf 
Cumberland  Gulf,  of  Repulse  Bay,  of  Ig-loo-lik,  of  Pelly  Bay,  or  of 
the  country  on  the  route  to  King  William  Laiul  would  have  been 
hopeless,  —  every  one  of  Hall's  journeys  and  talks  with  the  Innuits 
nearly  useless. 

])Ut  beyond  all  this,  the  heroic  conduct  of  these  two  on  the  last  of 
Hall's  voyages  claims  a  tribute.  It  must  be  very  plain  to  every  reader 
of  the  narrative  of  that  "  Polaris  "  voyage  that  these  Eskimos  saved  the 
lives  of  Tyson's  party  on  the  fearful  ice-floe  drift  of  more  than  one 
thousand  two  hundred  miles. 

In  the  early  days  of  that  suffering,  when  the  floe  was  drifting  past 
Cumberland  Sound  and  was  nearly  opposite  their  native  place,  the 
tem[)tation  presented  itself  to  this  coui)le  to  escape  to  the  mainland. 
"Father  Hall"  was  gone  from  them,  and,  at  tliat  time  there  were  just 
grounds  of  fear  within  their  breasts  that,  in  the  almost  famishing  con- 


i  M 


!; 
t 


'1 


M 


1 

tjv 

EP( :   ■ 

Ml. 


! 

:     I 
■■ 

I        1 

1 

u 

i.: 

340 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


dition  of  the  white  men,  some  of  them  might  nake  the  Eskimos  the 
first  victims,  if  the  direst  necessity  should  come. 

Hannah  listened  to  no  words  of  such  persuasion,  but  strengthened 
Joe's  purpose  to  remain;  a  hunter  for  the  seal  and  the  bear  was  thus 
still  to  be  at  hand  for  the  saving  of  men  whose  skill  in  such  hunts  was 
plainly  as  unequal  to  their  need  as  was  their  diminished  strength.  Of 
his  true  worth  in  this  respect,  the  most  convincing  proof  came  toward 
the  last  days  of  those  dark  months.  The  story  of  this  is  told  in  full  on 
the  568th  page  of  Admiral  Davis's  Narrative,  where  it  will  be- found  w- 
corded  that  on  the  22d  April,  1873,  when  Tyson's  party  en  the  line, 
weakened  by  their  six  months'  exposure,  were  on  that  day,  half 
drow^iid,  cold,  and  almost  literally  without  a  morsel  of  food,  Joe,  on 
going  out  for  the  fourth  time  to  watch,  saw  a  bear  coming  toward  the 
party,  hurried  back  for  his  gun,  and,  requesting  all  hands  to  lie  per- 
fectly still,  returned  with  his  companion  ITans,  and  with  his  aid  in- 
stantly killed  the  ferocious  animal.  At  this  point  in  his  narrativ? 
Admiral  Davis  says:  "But  for  the  rifles  in  this  extreme  eniergciicN. 
this  story  would  not  have  been  written." 

Joe  and  Hannah  were  natives  of  Cumberland  Inlet,  where  Captaui 
S.  O.  Budington,  of  Groton,  first  met  them  in  the  fall  of  1851,  on  the 
Island  of  Kim-ick-su-ic, — an  island  that  gets  its  name  from  its  Hat 
centre,  which,  covered  with  grass,  gives  it  the  look  of  a  (h/j-s/cln. 
Captain  Budington  wintered  there  in  about  lat.  65°  30',  long.  62°,  when 
in  command  of  the  "  McLellan,"  of  New  London.  Hannah,  who  was 
born  at  Cape  Sorrel  on  the  west  side  of  Davis  Strait,  was  at  the  time 
of  Captain  Budington's  visit  only  about  twelve  years  of  age,  and  .hie, 
who  was  then  married  to  another  woman,  seemed  to  Budington  at  that 
time  "as  old  as  he  does  to-day."  Cape  Sorrel  was  a  whaling  station, 
much  visited  by  English  and  American  sailors,  and  frequented  by  the 
Eskimos  of  Cumberland  Gulf  for  trade.  A  few  years  afterward,  Mr. 
Bolby,  a  merchant  of  Hull,  became  much  interested  in  these  two  per- 
sons, and  took  them  with  him  in  his  own  vessel  on  his  return  voyage 
from  the  Gulf.  In  England  he  treated  them  as  his  guests  with  great 
liberality.  They  were  married  in  his  house  in  the  ])resence  of  a  large 
company,  and,  with  Mr.  Bolby,  visited  in  their  native  costume  many 


LIFE   AT   GROTON. 


841 


pliices  in  England  and  Scotland,  and  were  presented  to  Queen  Victoria, 
and  (lined  with  her  and  the  Prince  Consort.  Hannah  always  spoke  of 
tlie  Quee'.  as  "  Very  kind,  very  much  lady." 

Hannah's  willingness  to  leave  her  country  seems  to  have  been  pro- 
(lucod  by  her  desire  to  keep  her  husband  with  her ;  he  was  at  the  time 
l)eiiig  j)ersuaded  to  leave  her  for  another  wife.  His  uncle  U-gack  was  re- 
jiorted  as  having  had  twenty  wives,  three  of  them  living  with  him  at  one 
time.  At  the  time  of  Hall's  return  to  the  United  States,  Joe,  who  had 
been  sick,  was  ordered  by  the  an-ge-ko  to  take  another  wife  as  the  only 
wav  to  get  well ;  but  to  his  own  best  future  success,  as  is  well  known, 
lie  came  over  with  Hannah  to  the  United  States.  His  father  had  died 
wlieu  quite  young :  his  half  brother  Ita-loo,  left  on  the  island,  Was  met 
witli  in  the  year  1873  by  Captain  Greer,  U.  S.  N.,  of  the  relief  ship 
"Tigress,"  came  with  him  to  New  York,  spent  the  winter  in  Groton, 
and  died  shortly  after  getting  back  to  his  native  land. 

Joe  and  Hannah  after,  as  has  been  shown,  assisting  Hall  in  his  pre- 
parations for  thr  Second  Expedition,  and  closely  attending  him  throny^, 
the  years  18(»4-69,  again  accompanied  him  on  his  last  voyage  in  tlie 
'"Polaris,"  1871,  and  returned  to  the  Unked  States  with  the  Hoe  party. 
They  were  as  much  attached  to  "Father  Hall"  as  he  was  to  them. 

In  a  home  purchased  for  them  by  him,  in  Groton,  Connecticut,  they 
soon  commenced  housekeeping  in  1873,  readily  adapting  themselves 
to  tlie  customs  of  civilized  life.  Joe  became  a  good  carpenter  and  farm 
hand,  retaining  his  old  love  for  fishing.  Hannah  was  soon  skilful  in 
making  up,  with  the  help  of  her  sewing-machine,  furs  and  other  salable 
articles  for  the  people  of  New  London  and  Groton. 

Their  first  child,  Tu-ke-li-ke-ta,  had  died  in  New  York  in  the  winter 
of  1863 ;  the  second  had  been  buried  on  the  first  sledge  journey  to 
King  William  Land  in  1866 ;  a  third,  which  Joe  adopted  in  1808,  wiLli 
the  consent  of  its  parents  and  by  the  gift  of  a  sled  to  them  from  Hall, 
came  with  him  to  the  United  States  in  1869.  Hannah  named  the  child 
Sylvia,  after  her  friend  Miss  Grinnell.  The  girl  was  an  intelligent 
scholar  at  the  Groton  school  until  her  death  in  1875. 

The  health  of  this  couple  had  boon  re])eatedly  broken  during  the 
long  period  of  suffering  of  the  years  1864  to  1869 ;  and  they  do  not 


-f 


If 


i   ; 

j 

I 

1 

1. 

1 

iS 


*'i 


i  :i 


f'  '-i- 

N  nil 

!       !  ' 


!  '.  ; 


342 


AMEUICAN   EXPLORATir^NS   IN   THE  ICE   ZONES. 


OL'-SE-GOKG  (JEAKNIE). 


seein  to  have  been  icacUly  accliiuatcd  in  the  United  States.  'I'lie  ter- 
rible experieiiee  cf  llu-  jee- 
floo  espeeially  Imd  left 
sev'Tj  traees  on  ilum, 
Dui:''g  the  year  :,s7ti, 
HaiMiali  suffet  !(i  "m,.], 
wit;-  thao  fatal  (liscase 
C()!isumi)ti()n ;  a  di  ;is(. 
which  carries  off  the  laicr. 
er  number  of  her  race.  Jt 
had  been  h)n_i;-  ^aiuinp- 
upon  her.  She  liiit-rlv 
felt  the  loss  of  her  last 
child  and  the  absence  of 
her  husband,  who,  after 
having  been  again  out  in 
the    Arctic    regions   with 

Captain  Allen  Young,  of  the  "Pandora,"  was  then  doing  good  service 

on  board  a  vessel  belong- 
ing to  the   United  States 

Fish  Comnussion.  Han- 
nah   had    become    a   true 

Christian  ;  read  her  Bible, 

and  showed  a  quiet,  good 

life.      After   a   season   of 

protract  e  d   s  u  ff  e  r  i  n  g, 

throughout  which  she  was 

tenderly  cared  for  by  Mrs. 

Captain     Budington    and 

other    friends    in    Groton, 

she  breathed   lier  last,  as 

the    old    year   went    out, 

December  31,  1870,  at  the 

early  age   of  thirty-eight. 

Her  death  was  tranquil.     Among  her  last  words  was  the  petition, 

"  Come,  Lord  Jesus,  and  take  thy  poor  creature  home ! " 


K UD-LUP-PA-MUNE  (ABBOTT). 


Ir 


THE   GUOTON    CKMETEIIY. 


843 


III  June,  1878,  Joe  again  sailed  for  tlie  Arcti-"  zone  witli  tlio  party  sent 
,;it  by  Morison  &  Brown,  of  New  York,  and  conniianded  by  Lieutenant 
Soliwatka,  U.  S.  A.,  to  prosecute  a  renewed  seareli  ^'or  the  records  of  Sir 
John  Franklin's  Expedition.  Mr.  J.  Carson  Ih\  )ort,  of  New  York, 
All.  J.  J.  Copp,  Captain  Budington,  and  otii  'l  bad  unlicsitatingly 
iviK  wed  their  indorsement  of  the  industry,  iionesty,  and  truthfulness 
of  this  simple-minded  Eskimo  man,  who  has  received  from  the  U.S. 
(idvernment  much  less  compensation  for  noble  services  than  perhaps 
aiiv  other  one  of  the  "Polaris"  Expedition,  lie  has  not  returned  to 
the  United  States. 


mm 


MEMORIALS. 

In  the  quiet  cemetery  <.  i  t  hillside  of  Groton,  may  be  found  a  few 
tombstones  set  up  by  it..  ^Uii.  ,.4  in  memory  of  nearly  all  the  Eskimos 
who  have  visited  the  T'  u  ,e(.  States.  One  of  these  stones  bears  the  name 
of  him  who,  going  out  wiiu  liall,  died  on  board  the  "George  Henry" 
wliile  eagerly  imiuiri.  "■  he  again  neared  his  native  land,  "Do  you 
see  ice,  ice  ?  " 

Kl  I>-I,A-(1(), 

Died  July  1,  ISOO, 

On  another  tombstone  will  be  read,  — 

Ou-SK-ooNO  (Jeannie). 
Died  July  1st,  1867.     Aged  28  years. 

Ou-se-gong  was  a  cousin  of  Joe,  and  wife  of  Kud-lup-pa-mnne,  known 
by  the  whalers  as  "  Abbott." 

♦  Captain  Budington  brought  these  two  Eskimos  from  Cumberland 
Iiik't  to  New  London  in  18(56 ;  on  their  return  with  him  the  next  year, 
Jeannie  died  on  the  voyage.  Two  smaller  headstones  put  up  for 
Hannah's  children  have  on  them  the  inscriptions  :  — 


And 


TU-KE-LI-KE-TA. 

Died  Feby.  28,  1803.     Aged  18  months. 

Sylvia  Grinnei.i.  Ebierbino 

(Puiina). 

Born  at  Ig-loo-lik,  July,  1866. 

Died  March  18,  187.'). 

"  Of  such  is  the  kingdom  of  heaven." 


1 


li   ■ 


§l. 


hi' 


! 


P 


844 


AMERICAN   KXPLORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


"She  was  a  survivor  of  the  Polaris  Expedition  under  Commander  Cliarlcs  Francis 
Hall,  and  was  picked  up  with  nineteen  others  from  an  ice-lloc,  April  ;50, 1873,  after  ii  drift 
on  the  ice  for  a  period  of  one  hundred  and  ninety  days  and  a  distance  of  nearly  twelve 
hundred  miles." 


On  a  visit  to  these  graves  in  1878,  when  making  inquiries  of  Eskimo 
Joe  in  regard  to  some  facts  for  use  in  the  Narrative  of  "  Hall's  St'CdnJ 
Arctic  Expedition,"  he  was  observed  to  kneel  at  Jlannah's  grave  iind 
carefully  weed  out  the  long  grass.  Then  turning  to  his  i^isitors  lu"  said. 
"Hannah  gone!  Punnagone  I  nie  go  now  again  to  King  William  Land; 
if  have  to  tight,  me  no  care." 

Over  the  grave  of  the  faithful  Hannah,  the  interpreter  of  each  Ex- 
pedition, and  the  friend  who  wept  at  Hall's  burial,  lias  recei  ';ly  l)ceii 
placed  an  elegant  granite  headstone  with  the  monogram  J.  &  11.  and 
an  inscription,  designed  for  her  by  Mr.  J.  J.  Copp  and  other  due 
friends. 


ml 


mm  i 


h.    j.i; :         lA 

■  M' 

l!.p               .         'r' 

1^  ' 


■'ii   ,i, 


.Miarlos  Francis 
73,  afle-r  a  drift 
»f  nearly  twelve 


'  of  each  Ex- 

i-ecei/;ly  l)t'eii 

J.  &  II.  and 

d  other  true 


i 

i' 

t'n 

■  j 

',1 

(■ ., 

'ill 

r 

i 

(     I 


:•  » 


i!l 


UEUTENANl'  FHKDKHIOK  SCHWATlvA,  U.S.A.,  IMKDALMST  OP  THE 
SOOIKTIO  1)K  (nWmAl'HIi:,  1883. 
I>om  "Schwatka'i  Jiraroli,"  liy  W.  II.  (illdor.    ClmrlM  Scrlhiier'i  Soiii. 


I 

I- 

h 


I     1 


!  If  * 

,;    If 

'1 

■A 

'i 


CIIArTKK    IX. 

SF.KIHJK  JOirUNKY   OK   MKIITKNANT  SCIIVVATKA.    U.H.  A. 

ItKI'OKTM  I'MtOM  IIHIiHoN's  HAY  WIIICII  CXU'AHlnNKM  I'll  K  .KUTRNKY.  — 
SMI.INd  OK  TIIK  "KOTIIKN."  -  AICKIVAL  AT  l>KI'(>T  ISLANM.  Till; 
TItrK  HTOIIY  OK  "TIIK,  HI'OON."  —  HKJMHION  TO  (!|{OSS  TO  KINO 
WIM.IAM  I.ANO.  MKK/riN(}  WITH  TIIK  INNIU'IS;  TIIKII!  S'l'OKIKH.— 
VIHI'I'  TO  TIIK  <;AIKN.  —  KKMAINH  OK  LIKUTKNANT  lUVINO,  it.  N., 
IDKNTIKIKD.  .lorifNKY  TO  V \VV\  KKMX.  —  NO  KKCORDS  KOUNI). — 
i;KI,irs  OK  KKANKMN's  KX  I'KIHTION.  —  (!AMI'IN(I  Ol'T  AND  HLKIXiK 
.loniiNKY,  OCTOllKIt,  lH7lt,  TO  MAIMMI  I,  IHHO.  —  KK/riMlN  TO  TIIK 
I'MTKM  STATKH.  -  ANYAKI)  OK  A  Mi'-MAI,  \\\  IIIK  (IKOOl!  A  I'll  ICA  li 
S()(MKTY    OK   VAIMH.  —  KK(!0(!N  ITION    OK   TIIK    \VOI!K     IIY    CONCiKKSS. 

V  li;is  l)(HMi  hIiowii  ill  tJip  provioiis  (iliuptid's,  iliiit  tlic!  h(»I(!  <»ni(!ial  or 
oilier  HMMM'd  wlii(rli  (!V('r  liiiH  hcnii  r(M!eiv(Ml  from  llir  ships  of  Sir 
*  .liiliii  l*'riiiil<liii,  is  tlir  piijxtr  IoiiimI  l>y  liiciitcniuit  M(('liiito(!l<, 
K.  N.,  in  |M;V.>.  'I'Ik;  riirllicsl,  <!X|)loiiilioii  wwuU'  liy  Ciiptiiiii  Hall,  as 
rciiiltMl  ill  (Jlia|)t(!r  VII.,  was  in  lln?  rcj^ion  of  tlio  \vr(!ck(Ml  sliips  ;  hut. 
Ihili  l(iarn(Ml  as  to  Ww,  (jxislnnoc!  ol'  rciciords  or  journals  merely  the 
triidilioiis  and  storicis  oi*  llio  Neit,-<dii-llis,  Miat  in  IIm^  (Miiriis  which  \n\  was 
iiiiidtli^  to  visit,  hooks  and  pjipers  niij^lit  hv.  round.  This  i'(!|iort  he 
j)iihlislied  (hi'oujjfji  llie  press  on  his  return  in  iHd!);  ho  <;onl(!ini)hited 
;i  new  journey  lor  them. 

The  value  (d'  the  records  to  tlio  English  CJovernment  and  to  snifuiee, 
lis  well  lis  to  history,  still  lid't  in  th(^  nunds  of  some  a  liii<jferin^  desii-c; 
lur  liirtlier  search.  In  1875  it  was  one  of  tlu;  ol)j(!ets  of  ('aj)tain  Allen 
V()iiii<^  of  the  "Pandora"  (lat(!  tli(!  ".leaiuKitte,"  under  Lieutenant 
Dcdion^),  who  states  in  his  liist()ry  of  tlu;  two  voyages,  that  tli<!  pur- 
poses of  his  first  voyaj:^e  wero  to  visit  the  western  coast  of  (inMUiliind, 
tliiMioe  to  proceed  through  Ual.'iu's  Sea,  Lanejister  Sound,  and  liarrow 
Strait,  towards  the  magneti>,  J'ole,  and.  i  oracticable,  to  navip^iite 
through   the   northwest  passant;   to    the    I'aciiic    Ocean    in   one  season 

846 


■  ll 


^  . 


<  ]l;: 


I    I' 


346 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS    IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


adding:  "As,  in  following  this  route,  the  'Pandora'  v/ould  pass  Ivinff 
William  Land,  it  was  proposed,  if  successful  in  reaching  that  iocalitv 
in  the  summer  season,  when  the  snow  was  off  the  hui'l,  to  iimk,.  ;^ 
search  ii>v  further  reconh  and  for  th"  joiirnals  of  the  ships  '  i'hclnis" 
and  'Terror.'"  Captain  Young,  however,  found  himself  hcsct  l»v  an 
impenetrable  pack  at  the  Koquette  Islands  in  Franklin  Chiiniicl,  nn. 
hundred  and  forty  miles  from  Point  Victory,  —  a  disa[)pointm('nt  wliich 
was  more  severely  felt  because,  the  day  before,  his  ship  had  run  soiitli- 
wai.!  tlirough  Peel's  Straits  with  a  clear  sea,  witli  no  sign  of  icr.  ami 
with  every  prospect  of  reaelung  King  William  Land,  and  aecomplishiii(r 
the  northwest  passage. 

Three  years  later,  the  search  for  the  records  was  renewed  ])v  bieu- 
tenant  Sehwatka,  U.  S.  A.  For  the  recovery  of  these  long-dcsiri'd 
treasures,  nothing  was  accomplished,  simply  because  nothing  was  [)os- 
sible ;  but  the  journey  has  added  facts  of  value  to  the  domain  of 
(ieography,  and  its  records  exhibit  an  ex[)erience  of  remarkable  encioy, 
perseverance,  and  fortitude,  entitling  it  to  a  worthy  place  in  the  stmy 
of  American  Exploration.  The  sledging  has  no  parallel  in  Aitiic 
liistory. 

The  immediate  occasion  of  the  Expedition  was  the  renewal  of  tlio 
old  story  brought  back  from  the  Neit-chi-lli  Eskimos  by  two  American 
whaling-masters,  Captains  Potter  and  Barry,  that  books  and  pajieis 
were  to  be  found  in  a  cairn  in  King  William  Land.  The  first  of  these 
stories  seems  to  have  been  related  by  Captain  Potter  in  1872;  he  had 
been  frozen  up  twenty-four  months  in  Repulse  Bay  and  thence  brought 
to  New  York,  spoons,  forks  and  knives  engraved  with  the  crests  and  ini- 
tials of  Franklin,  Crozier,  and  Fitz  James;  reporting  that  the  Neit-clii-llis 
had  spoken  of  papers  and  books  laid  away  in  a  cairn  by  the  last  white  man 
who  had  visited  their  country'.  This  report,  again  renewed  in  1877.  (Mi 
the  return  of  Captain  Barry,  one  of  Potter's  former  companions,  oijoiicd 
up  the  presumption  that  the  books  might  be  the  ships'  logs  and  notes  nf 
scientific  observations.  For  their  recovery  the  British  GovernnuMit  fnr 
many  years  had  held  open  a  large  reward,  and  although  this  had  now 
lapsed,  Messrs.  Morrison  and  Brown,  owners  of  Barry's  vessel,  the 
"  Eothen,"  were   ofiiciall}*  informed  that  if  the   proposed  search  wire 


SCHWATKA  .S   INSTRUCTIONS. 


347 


siucL'Ssful,  liberal  compensation  woul  1  be  made.  Lieutenant  Fretl- 
eiu  k  Scliwatka.  of  the  3d  U.  S.  Cavaliy,  of  Polish  descent  but  American 
liirtli,  had  previously  become  eager  to  organize  a  search  party  and 
liiid  the  cairn  and  buried  pa[)ers;  on  conference  with  the  shipping 
iiKMcliants  named,  his  (tffer  to  organize  an  expedition  was  acce[)ted  and 
tliL'  slii[)  fitted  out  by  private  subscriptions.  The  enter[)rise  was  en- 
(diir;i_n'ed  by  Judge  Daly,  President  of  the  (Geographical  Society  of 
Xcw  \'oi-k,  who  endorsed  the  Lieutenant's  ap[)licatiou  to  General  iSher- 
111:111  for  leave  of  absence  from  regular  army  duty. 

.Iiiiie  19,  1878,  Scliwatka  Siiiletl  from  New  York  accompained  by  Mr. 
William  H.  Gilder  as  second  in  command;  Henry  Klutschak,  who  iiad 
passed  through  some  xVrctic  experiences ;  Melms,  an  old  whaleman ; 
and  -hie  Ebierbing,  who  had  returned  from  his  last  Polar  Expedition, 
under  Captain  Young  of  the  "-Pandora."  The  "  Eothen,"  commanded 
1)\ Captain  T.  F.  Barry,  was  a  stout  vessel  of  one  hundred  and  two 
tens;  lier  crew  nundjered  twenty-three  men.  For  encounters  with  the 
ice,  lier  hull  had  been  overlaid  to  the  chain  plates  with  oak  planking 
(iiie  iiiid  a  half  inches  thick,  and  her  stem,  covered  with  oak  two  feet 
thick;  the  iron  plating  on  it,  three  fourths  of  an  inch.  In  addition  to 
a  fidr  outlit,  including  arms  and  ammunition,  boxes  were  shii)ped  in  the 
lio[»cful  idea  of  the  records,  and  tobacco  stored  in  abundance  for  the 
use  of  such  Eskimos  as  might  have  stories  to  tell  or  assistance  to  offer. 
Horseradish  was  taken  as  an  anti-scorbutic. 

Within  the  instructions  furnished  to  the  Lieutenant,  he  was  advised, 
tliat,  if  he  should  be  so  fortunate  as  to  find  the  records,  remains,  or  relics, 
their  contents  should  be  kept  secret;  and  if  he  should  find  the  remains 
of  Sir  John  Franklin  or  any  of  his  ])arty  he  would  properly  take  care 
of  them,  and  bring  them  to  the  United  States.  Should  the  expedition 
prove  a  failure  in  its  chief  object,  he  was  to  make  it  a  geographical 
success,  as  he  would  be  compelled  to  travel  over  a  great  deal  of 
unexplored  country,  and  would  make  daily  observations  and  be  able 
td  (Hscover  and  mark  errors  on  the  existing  charts.  This  Sehwatka 
effected. 

The  first  iceberg  was  seen  July  11.  On  tli(>  10th  in  lat.  AO"  ol'  N., 
long.  00°  45  W.  before  nudniglit  nearly  seventy  at  different  hours  were 


1 

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hI.1 

ffl ' ' ' 

hHI 

ii. 

Hi 

f  1 

■i 

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Bil 

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t^i  ^  S  ■ 

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1  f  •; 


ii'ifit 


348 


AMERICAN    EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


in  sight ;  one,  says  Captain  Gilmer,  appearing  like  a  huge  circus-tent 
with  an  adjoining  side-show  booth,  while  near  by,  another  was  a  mot^t 
perfect  rei)resentation  of  a  cottage  by  the  sea,  with  gables  towards  tin. 
observer  and  chimneys  rising  at  i)roper  intervals  along  the  rool';  cuo 
other  seemed  a  perfect  counterpart  of  Newstead  Abbey:  the  ivy  scchumI 
creeping  over  its  sides,  so  deceptive  were  the  shadows  that  fell  on  it 
from  pinnacles  and  horizontal  projections  innumerable." 

August  7,  1878,  the  ship  reached  Whale  Point  at  the  entraiict!  df 
Rowe's  Welcome,  au  arm  of  Hudson's  Bay,  and  was  soon  visited  hy  a 
large  number  of  the  natives,  among  whom  were  Ar-mou  (the  wolf), 
I-ke-mer  (lire),  and  Ar-mou's  brother,  Too-goo-lan  (Pa-pa-tewa),  coin- 
panions  of  Captain  Hall  on  his  Second  Expedition.  All  the  jHoplf 
seemed  friendly,  and  on  consultation  over  the  charts,  it  Avas  decided  to 
go  on  to  the  mainland  near  Depot  Island,  and  spend  the  winter.  The 
journey  westward  would  be  begun  in  the  early  part  of  the  spring. 

But  with  deep  regret  it  was  at  once  learned  that  one  of  the  two 
Neit-chi-llis  of  whom  Barry  had  spoken  as  talking  while  looking  at  tin* 
ship's  log,  of  "the  big  white  man  who  many  years  ago  had  kept  the 
same  kind  of  book,  and  hid  it  in  a  cairn,"  had  died,  and  nobody  knew 
what  had  become  of  the  other  man.  Schwatka,  nothing  daunti'd, 
pitched  his  tent  on  shore,  hit.  63°  51'  N.,  long.  90°  20'  15"  W.,  i.,ul 
determined,  in  place  of  returning  to  New  York,  as  he  would  have  hecu 
justified  in  doing,  to  make  during  the  following  summer  a  linal  and 
conclusive  search.  The  Arctic  winter  up  to  A-[)ril  1st  was  tlieret'die 
spent  in  the  igloos.  It  inured  the  party  to  the  climate,  and  occasional 
sledge  journeys,  and  taught  them  how  to  clothe  themselves  ancl  otherwise 
provide  against  the  cold.  During  the  winter,  further  news  of  tiie  ndies 
was  by  no  means  more  encouraging  than  that  already  received,  bidui 
Nu-tar-ge-ark  a  man  of  about  forty  or  fifty  years  of  age,  it  was  learned 
that  his  father  many  yenrs  bef(>re  had  taken  out  from  a  cairn  on  Kin^' 
William  Land,  a  tin  box  containing  ])aper  with  writing  on  it  (the  same 
account  of  the  box  and  paper  with  that  given  by  Captain  Hall  in  iS(lii). 
Jie  additional  statement  being  at  that  time  made  to  him,  that  the  pa|)ei' 
had  been  "thrown  away  as  of  no  use  to  Innuits."  The  native,  how- 
ever,  spoke   further  to   Gilder  of   a  cairn   within  which  the    Innuits 


THE  whalers'   reports. 


349 


m$' 


believed  something  lay  still  buried  beneath  a  very  heavy  stone  which 
had  been  undisturbed.  A  spoon  brougiit  from  King  William  Land  by 
Nu-tar-go-ark  had  been  given  to  Captain  Potter. 

Mr.  (iilder's  lirst  errand  then  v;as  to  find  the  ca[>tain,  and  in  this  he 
succeeded  on  a  visit  to  Marble  Island  in  January,  1879,  when  l\)tter, 
tluMi  second  in  command  of  the  whaler  "  Abbie  Bradford,"  unhappily 
exploded  ^he  story  which  had  been  the  chief  metnis  of  bringing  Lieuten- 
ant Schvvatka  from  the  States.  This  he  felt  constrained  to  do  by  show- 
iiio-  iliat  the  assertion  made  by  Caj)tain  Barry  that  he  had  understood 
Iiiiniits  talking  to  each  other  about  "the  big  man  who  ir.uny  years  be- 
fiiic  had  been  seen  with  a  big  book  like  the  ship's  log"  was  su[)remely 
ridiculous  ;  for  probably  no  Avhite  man  in  the  Arctic  could  have  under- 
stood the  conversational  language  of  those  natives,  so  different  from  the 
"]>igeon  English  "  tliey  UvSe  in  communicating  with  the  whalers.  In 
this  crucible  of  fact,  saj's  INIr.  (iilder,  the  famous  spoon*  melted.  So 
tar  as  Captain  Barry  and  his  clews  were  concerned  "we  liad  come  on  a 
fool's  errand." 

The  final  search,  however,  was  not  to  be  abandoned,  and  this  decis- 
ion nas  ivfterAvard  fully  justifiinl  by  the  laboi's  of  the  Expedition  and  its 
results.  The  commander  knew  what  was  before  him,  and  with  whom 
lie  had  to  deal,  and  would  not  return  empty-handed.  To  verify  the 
statements  made  by  Nu-tar-ge-ark  and  other  natives  —  nearly  the  same 
with  those  made  to  Captain  Hall  in  1809  — (see  Chap.  VII.  ]).  26G), 
"that  very  nvvny  skeletons  still  lay  on  the  ground  in  King  William 
Land,  invisible  in  winter  by  being  covered  with  snow," — as  well  as 
to  (h'terniine  finally  in  regard  to  the  Records,  a  journey  would  now  be 
unih'rtakon  to  the  distant  regions.  For  this,  the  first  thing  necessary 
was  to  get  lull  dog-teams,  for  which  Gilder  set  out  on  a  visit  to  the 
Kinncjtatoos,  seventy  miles  west  and  north  from  Marble  Island.  lie 
was  the  first  Avhite  man  to  visit  them,  the  first  ever  seen  by  a  number 
of  them  ;  but  all  were  friendly,  even  at  his  first  entry  to  their  igloos. 

*  Tho  famous  spoon  brought  by  Captain  IVirry  to  New  York  had  been  sent  by  the 
writiT  for  Morrison  tt  Brown  of  Xcw  York,  from  the  Naval  Observatory  throngli  the  State 
l)('l)iutmcnt  to  Miss  Sopliia  Cracroft,  London,  niece  of  Sir  John  Frankhn.  Tlie  cut  on 
tlio  next  page  is  a  fac-simile.  It  was  unquestionably  one  of  Franklin's,  and  acknowledged 
as  such  in  England. 


!1 


II' 


350 


AMERICAN    EXPLORATIONS    IN   THE    ICE   ZONES. 


lieimiining  witli  them  a  week,  he  witnessed  the  performance  oi'  the 
Key-luw-tik,  which  has  been  tlesciibed  in  Hail's  narrative,  and  says  tliai 
he  frequently  "grew  weary  and  slept  through  it,"  but  that  it  would 
cause  a  sensation  in  New  York. 

On  his  return  from  the  village,  after  securing  a  few  dogs,  Gilder  dis- 
covered two  lakes,  which  he  named  respectively  Brevoort  and  Duryca. 


FRANKLINS   SPOON 


Fao-siiiiilc  of  a  spoon  brouglit  from  Hcpulse  Bay  to  Morrison  &  Brown  of  New  York,  anil  scmiI  liy 
U.  S.  Naval  Observatory  to  Miss  Cracroft,  niece  of  Sir  ,Iohn  Franklin.    Mending  done  by  the  Kskiiims. 

and  reconnoitred  the  southeast  shore  of  Depot  Island,  the  moutli  df 
Chesterfield  Bay  and  its  Islands,  and  Marble  Island ;  he  also  discovcivd 
a  river  which  lie  named  the  Connery,  and  which  by  its  course  ai)i)carfd 
to  indicate  the  proper  route  to  King  William  Land. 

Within  the  same  ])eriod,  Lieutenant  Schwatka  made  a  preliminary 
sledge  journey  to  the  North,  discovered  a  river  which  he  named  Lmi!- 
lard,  and  a  chain  of  hills  which  he  named  the  Hazard  Range :  lt» 
their  summit  he  gave  the  name  Wheeler,  liy  astronomical  observa- 
tions and  surveys,  he  determined  that  the  west  coast  of  Hudson's  Hay 
in  that  section  had  been  laid  down  on  the  charts  about  2°  too  far  to 
the  West. 


GEOGUAl'HICAL   DISCOVEUIES.  351 

April  1,  1879,  lie  bcgiui  his  sledge  journey  of  eleven  months  cover- 
iii(T  a  distance  of  three  thousand  two  hundred  and  iifiy  mile  .,  aeeom- 
iiiiiiicd  1)}^  thirteen  Innuit  men,  wonu-n,  and  uhildren.  'J'heir  si  ,ds, drawn 
1)V  forty-two  dogs,  bore  weights  of  about  live  thousand  pounds —  loads 
\vliiih  would  be  each  da}^  lessened  by  the  ratioiung  of  tV  j  walrus-nicat 
t(i  iiitMi  and  dogs.  It  was  scarcely  more  than  a  month's  supply,  but  the 
piuiy  were  reasonably  ex])ecting  to  get  their  subsistence  fiom  the  game 
wliiih  they  would  continually  find  to  increase  in  number  with  the  opc!  - 
iiio-  season.  Their  general  course  was  north-northwest;  it  was  the  most 
dJK  ct  route,  but  led  them  across  land  up  to  that  date  unvisited  by  a 
while  uian,  and  unknown  to  tht  Innuits. 

Kor  the  first  few  days  the  journey  was  one  of  exceeding  fatigue,  the 
iiiiMi  having  more  than  once  to  put  on  their  rue-raddiex  (harness)  in 
iiidtT  to  help  the  dogs  over  some  ridge  or  through  a  snow-drift.  They 
crnsscd  the  Connery  and  the  Lorillard  rivers,  and  on  A])ril  li",  by  tho 
CJmrt,  they  should  have  been  on  the  Wager  Kivtu-,  but  saw  nothing  of 
it ;  a  i'ai-t  which  may  ex[)lain  Hall's  being  landed  at  the  mistaken  point, 
as  named  in  this  volume  (Chap.  VII.,  page  210).  'Jlii;  charts  of  Hud- 
son Hay  have  misled  the  whalers.  IJy  the  21st  tliey  were  in  lat.  iVf 
4.V  across  the  Wager  River;  and  by  May  Dth  were  iollowing  a  branch 
of  Hack's  or  Fish  River,  wliich  they  named  after  Piv  sident  Hayes.  On 
this  river,  May  loth,  they  fell  in  with  a  party  of  Ook-joo-jiks  whose 
fhicf  gave  them  their  lirst  direct  news  of  the  missing  navigators. 
Their  coming  near  to  this  [)arty  was  first  inad"^kiio\\n  bv  the  excite- 
iiR'iit  among  the  dogs  win"  started  off  on  a  brisk  run  with  loud  bark- 
ing-:  the  Innuits  at  one*  aid  that  this  showed  that  [)eople  were  not 
far  oir. 

S(  hwatka's  Innuits,  i  uding  Joe,  were  much  frightened,  but  were 
reassured  by  his  calling  cir  attention  to  the  difference  between  breech- 
loa(h'is  and  Innuit  bo'  s  and  knives.  In  fact,  on  coming  nearer  to  the 
nine  men,  it  was  found  that  they  had  been  even  afraid  to  come  out  of 
tlitir  igloos  until  they  beard  the  name  of  one  of  the  Innuits,  and 
ahhoiigh  they  all  carried  knives,  these  were  but  bits  of  hoojwron  or 
copper.  They  were  also  miserably  poor  and  without  food.  Supj)lied 
by  Sihwatka  with  reinU'  ■;. -meat,  of  which  he  had  already  foui.  !  abun- 


352 


AMERICAN    EXPLORATIONS    IN   THE    ICE   ZONES. 


dance,  they  became  very  friendly,  assisted  in  building  igloos,  and  jfave 
further  valued  information  of  Franklin's  party.  This  was  in  part  sul)- 
stantially  the  same  with  that  learned  by  Hall,  viz.:  that  a  ship  had  1),.,.^ 
found  in  the  ice  off  the  west  coast  of  Adelaide  Peninsula,  and  ilmt 
knives,  spoons,  and  utensils  had  been  taken  out  by  cutting  a  hole  into 
the  ship  on  a  level  with  the  ice,  as  they  did  not  know  how  to  get  inside 
by  the  doors;  they  saw  no  bread;  they  ?ciw  books  on  board  ami  left 
them  there  ;  and  when  the  ice  broke  up  in  the  following  summer,  the 
ship  fdled  througli  the  hole  they  had  cut,  and  sank. 

Taking  some  of  these  men  into  his  company,  in  four  more  miirclins 
Schwatka  reached  Back's  River,  and  thence  searched  in  vain  on  Mnu- 
treal  Island  for  the  reported  cairn.  He  then  again  took  the  mainlinKi. 
and  after  crossing  Kichardson  Point,  for  the  first  time,  fell  in  with 
the  Neit-chi-lis  proper.  The  indications  from  these  people  not  iii)|)(';ir- 
ing  those  of  sincere  friendship,  and  their  custom  being  knov/n  of  killinjr 
the  first  stranger  that  comes  after  a  death  among  them,  an  iiupicssion 
was  made  upon  them  by  liring  a  gun  in  the  air,  after  which,  in  their 
turn,  they  became  friendly,  and  gave  much  further  news.  One  ol"  the 
old  natives  had  seen  books  and  papers  scattered  around  the  rocks,  with 
knives,  forks,  and  watches;  another  as  late  as  the  j)revious  sumuu'r  had 
picked  up  relies  f)n  the  west  coast  of  Adelaide  peninsula,  and  pcdiUcd 
out  the  j)laee  where  the  ship  had  been  sunk;  others  had  seen  the  white 
men  putting  up  a  tent,  some  of  their  number  being  in  a  boat;  some  of 
the  white  men  were  very  thin,  their  mouths  di}',  hard,  and  black ;  thoy 
had  no  fur  clothing  on;  in  the  following  spring  a  tent  had  beeti  seen 
standing  on  the  shore  with  a  great  many  dead  bodies  inside  and  (nit- 
side ;  no  flesh  on  them.  There  were  knives,  forks,  spoons,  watches. 
many  books;  but  the  books  were  not  taken  any  notice  of:  a  renewed 
statement  which  alone  exists  as  the  key  to  the  utter  inability  on  the 
part  of  all  explorers  to  find  the  Records.  They  were  doubtless  de- 
stroyed by  the  natives;  perlia])s  those  at  Beechey  Island  also. 

June  4,  Schwatka  and  Gilder  visited  a  new  cairn  reported  to  have 
been  erected  by  white  men  near  Pfeffer  River.  It  was  found  to  be  the 
one  erected  by  Captain  Hall,  May  12,  ]8()9,  over  the  bones  of  two  of 
Franklin's  men  which  he  had  there  discovered  (see  Chap.  VII.  p.  203), 


>s,  and  <fave 
u  part  sul). 
ip  had  Ixcn 
a,  and  tliut 
a  hole  into 
-o  get  inside 
ird  and  left 
^unnncM',  tin; 


RELICS   SEEN   BV   NATIVES.  353 

and  it  confirmed  an  impression  on  Scliwatka's  party  that  tlie  wliite  men 
gtjokcn  of  in  tiie  tent  were  all  otlicers,  and  that  the  hooks  reported  to 
Jijivc  IxH'ii  found  in  a  tin  ease  were  tlie  mort;  important  lieeords  of  the 
Kxpcdition  in  their  charge.  At  the  site  of  a  camp  —  probably  that  of 
Cio/.icr  —  after  abandoning  his  ship  off  Cape  Jane  Fra  d^lin,  were  found 
cdoki'ig-stoves,  with  their  kettles,  besides  clothing,  blankets,  canvas, 
etc..  and  an  opo  grave  in  which  was  a  (pumtity  of  blue  cloth,  some 
canvas,  gilt  buttons,  and  the  ol)ject-glass  of  a  telescope.  On  one  of 
tin;  stones  at  the  foot  of  the  grave  was  a  solid  silver  medal  two  and  a 
lialt  inches  in  diameter  with  a  bas-relief  portrait  of  George  IV^.  on 
tlu!  obverse,  and  on  the  reverse  a  laurel  wreath  surrounded  by  the 
words, — 


* 


-* 


GEOllGIUS    IV.,  I).(i.    r.ltlTANNlAUUM    IJEX, 
1820. 


and  on  the  left  a  ^.lUt  1  wreath  surrounded  by, 

* — — ■ 


* 


SECOND   MATHEMATICAL    I'UIZE,    KOYAL 
NAVAL   COLLECiE. 


*- 


and  inclosing. 


« 


->,t 


AWARDED   TO   JOHN    IRVING,    MID- 
SUMMER,   1881. 


This  at  once  identified  the  grave  as  that  of  Lieutenant  Jidni  Irving,  third 
(it'liccr  of  the  '• 'I'error ; "  under  the  head  was  a  iigured-silk  ])oeket  hand- 
kerchief remarkably  preserved.  The  skull  and  a  few  other  bones  found 
wore  carefully  gathered,  and  on  the  return  of  the  Expedition  sent  to 
the  grateful  relations  of  Lieutenant  Irving  in  Scotland,  whcic  they 
were  buried  with  due  honor  in  his  native  town.  These  were  the  only 
remains  which  could  be  sufliciently  identified  to  warrant  thcii'  removal. 
But  by  this  kindly  Christian  act,  Lieutenant  Schwatka  added  another 


''  i 


:r. 


11 


li 


m\ 


iii:i 


11  : 


u  ■ 

l; 

1 

ij 

I      i 
i      ■; 

!,  1 

1  ■     '■' 

i  [    -' 

' 

354 


AMKKICAN    KXri-(ii;ATI(iNS    IN    'I'lIK    ICK    ZONIOS. 


Uiitioiial  Icstinioiiy  as  well  as  one  of  liiiiiiaiic  I'ccliii;^  towards  tl,,. 
laiii('iitf<l  iiavi,i;'ut()rs ;  Captain  Hall  lia\iiiiL;'  pcironiifd  a  lil<r  dim  j,, 
l.Si'.!*,  I)_v  sciidiiiL;-,  IJirdii^li  Mr.  iJrcvttoit,  nl'  I'noid^lyii,  and  AMiniial 
Iii<;'U'fuld,  l{.\.,  remains,  al'tt'i'wards  hy  a  \>\u<^  in  a.  tnoiji  idcnlilK  (j  j,, 
Kni^'land  as  those  <d'  Mentenant    N'eseomte  <d'  the  '•  ICrelnis.'" 

.Inly  '•),  Sidiwatka's  pai'ty  was  at  Cape  I'"eli\,  the  most  northern  iMiint 
of  Kin_L;'  William  Land.  To  reaeh  this  ]ioint  they  had  eaelied  nil  ili,,j,. 
heaxystnlT  in  oi'der  to  lighten  the  sled  as  niindi  as  possihle,  l.iii  Ii,i,| 
lonnd  their  journey  to  he  one  (d'  exeeedim;'  I'aliniU',  the  walking  hriir.. 
in^'  to  them  iii-w  tortni'es  daily.  They  were  either  wadini;-  lliKiiinl, 
triM(dierons  iVo/.en  torrents  or  lakes,  or  painlidly  ploddiuL;'  in  soli  >(;i|. 
skin  hoots  over  sharp  (day  stones,  sonu'  of  \vhi(di  slip|)e(l,  slidin'_;-  tlhii' 
unwary  i'eet  into  ere\iees  thai  wonhl  seemino'iy  wicn(di  them  iVom  ili,. 
hody.  \  vl  they  moved  ahout  ten  nules  a  day,  and  made  as  thoronL;li  a 
searidi  as  was  [lossihle.  Their  nii'at  diet,  most  oi"  it  eaten  as  soon  :is 
killed,  hrou^ht  on  rre([Uont  diarrlaea,  their  food  Ixdnt;"  dn(d-;s,  n'eese.  ami 
an  oin-asional  reindeer.  TJiret'  miles  south  of  the  eape  was  I'oinid  a  lnin- 
(h)\vii  eairn  eonlainiuL;'  anioiit;'  other  things,  pieces  of  an  m  nanirm,  i| 
china  teaeiij),  and  cans  of  preserved  potatoes;  indieations  that  the  >|iut 
had  been  a  iiermaneiit  eainpiiig-[)hieo  IVom  the  ships,  and  in  eliaiL;('  nf 
an  (d'lieer.  I'wo  nnles  l)aid<  from  tlu^  coast  was  another  well-l)nili  (aim 
or  jiillar,  seven  feet  lun'li,  w  hit  h  had  I>een  l)uilt  on  a  prominent  hill  ovri'- 
lookinjjf  both  coasts.  Tiiis  Lieutenant  S(diwatk;i  took  carefully  dnwn 
without  meetiuLi'  with  anv  record  or  mark  whutever.  KeiXfcttin''-  ihai 
the  oidy  one  left  standing!;  on  KinLj  William  Land,  built  by  the  iiamls 
of  white  men,  should  thus  be  found,  he  rebuilt  it,  depositinn'  in  it  a 
record  of  the  work  done  bv  his  i)artv  to  date.     After  u  thorough  exam- 

ill  o 

ination  of  the  locality,  it  was  plain  that  Sir  John  Franklin  had  not  hceii 
buried  in  that  vicinity. 

.Iidy  7,  the  southward  march  was  taken  up  from  Cape  Felix,  and  a 
cairn  very  like  the  last  w^as  met  with,  in  the  tirst  course  of  stones  n[' 
which  was  a  jiiece  of  jiaper  with  a  carefully  drawn  hand  on  it,  the  iiiMix 
fino-er  jxiinling  in  a  southerly  directi<»n  ;  any  writing  upon  it,  if  cv(r 
made,  had  disappeared,  nor  could  any  other  relics  be  found.  It  was 
judged   that    these    hist    two    cairns  had  been  built  by  the   Franklin 


;s. 


.lOUIlNKV   TO   (;M'1;    KKMJv. 


3o/ 


!\l\ 


towartis  ili(j 
.  liki'  (liii\   ill 

iiiid  AMiiiii.il 
li  iilciiiilii  i|  ill 

KH'lllClll  |.iii||l 
clicil  ;ill  llii'ii' 
>sil)l(',  1)111  IiikI 
,viilkiii!4'  luiii^-- 

iulill<4'  lllKill'^ll 
IL;'    ill    Siil't    >c;i|. 

1,  slidiiiu,-  their 
tliciii  fniiii  ihc 
;  as  lli()riiiiL;li  h 
tell   as  siiuii  IIS 
icks,  <4'ccS('.  ami 
IS  rniiiid  a  iiirii- 
iiii   (iriiaiiH'iiti'il 
that  llic  >|Mit 
ill   cliaii^;'!'  Ill' 
;('ll-l)uill  caiiii 
iK'iil  liill  iivn- 
arc'l'iilly  dnwn 
'0'reltiii;4  thai 
l)y  the   iiaiiils 
isitinn"  ill  it  .1 
loroiiu'li  exam- 
hud  iiul  Ih'OIi 

!  Felix,  and  u 
(    of  Sttilics  lit' 

11  it,  the  iiiiu'>: 
lon  it,  it'  ever 
)uncl.  It  was 
the   Fraiddiu 


IvKiirditidii  for  some  seieiitilic'  imrpose  only,  its  seienlilic  lecnrds,  so 
liiim  desired,  I'speeially  those  doiditless  made  here,  near  the  Ma^jnetic 
I'uli  ,  well'   not  to  \)v  seen. 

.\  I'li'i' ereetinj;'  a  n:oniiiiieiit,  .luly  l^'),  o\  er  the  L;'iave  of  I.ifiitenaiit 
Iivinu',  and  hiiryinj;'  a  copy  id"  the  Kccord  hdl  here  hy  Mc( 'lintocdc. 
Scliuatka's   l)arty   continued    their   coast  journey,  lindinj.';  at  diri'event 


TlIK   MARCH   SOUTHWARD. 

IKiiuts,  tontinfj-places  botli  of  white  men  and  natives,  and  another  cairn 
wliicli  had  been  torn  down,  liut  nothincj  left  within.  At  some  distance 
I'll  mi  an  enqity  grave  was  a  sknll  whic-h  had  evidently  hecMi  drago'e<l 
there  by  wild  beasts.  Near  by  were  traces  of  native  tenting-[)laees : 
ami  here  (iilder  in  his  narrative  remarks  that,  "wherever  they  found 
fjiaves  they  always  found  evidences  tiiat  the  natives  had  eneaniped  in 
the  neighborhood  like  vultures."  This,  with  many  other  like  state- 
iiiiMits,  was  confirmatory  of  the  records  made  by  Captain  Hall  in  18(U). 

From  this  point  the  jiarty  went  on  to  Krebus  IJay,  on  the  south  side 
of  which  was  found  the  wreck  of  a  slii[)*s  hoat,  pieces  of  cloth,  canvas, 


«« 

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35(5 


AMKKICA.V    EXIM.OUATIUNS    ,N    TIIK    K'K    /ONMCS. 


iron,  ami  Iiuinaii  Ihuh's.  Tlu'  jirow  ;nnl  stiTii  jxist  of  the  bout  wrn.  j,, 
good  comlitinii,  ami  its  cHiiUi'icmI  hoards  incasmiiiL,'  t went v-ci^hi  |',,,.( 
six  iiiclu'S  to  wIhmc  tlicy  \\r\v  l)rol<cii  oil',  sliowrd  it  to  liavt-  licin  ;i  vcrv 
laro'c  l)oat.      Portions  ol'  i'our  skcit'toiis  were  foimd  and  huricd. 

Here.  l»y  the  Itrcakini;  np  of  the  ice  and  the  ini'ltiiig  of  tlic  >iin\\.  ji 
Ix'Cunic  evident  that  sK'dj^intr  \vas  oNcr  for  tho  soasoii  :  it  wouM  imw  i„. 
iit'ces.sary  to  carry  everything  on  the  l)ark,  or  npoii  llie  dot;'s.  Aliciu 
very  tethons  journey,  Terror  liay  was  reaehed  August  :>,  and  Sdiw.itkn 
and  (iihh'r  were  there  left  ah)ne  until  September  1,  their  natives  li.ujnif 
returneil  to  the  coast  to  bring  up  some  suitplies  with  the  eiii|ii\  >l,il, 
'I'he  two  kd't  in  camp  obtained  a  i)lentil'ul  siii»ply  of  reindeer.  'I'luv 
seurclied  the  coast  as  far  west  as  C'a[>e  Crozier,  bid  the  lent-jilaii. 
spoken  of  l)y  the  natives  could  not  l)e  found,  though  its  siie  \\;|^ 
reached ;  it  was  afterward  learned  that  it  was  so  close  to  the  wat.r  tlmt 
now  all  traces  of  it  had  disappeared. 

September  lt>,  a  permanent  cam])  was  by  necessity  fornuMl  for  early 
wintering,  and  was  made  near  (lladman  Point  on  a  narrow  point 
Simjison's  Strait.  Jieindeer  were  seen  in  inuuense  herds.  'I'oo-jdd-; 
in  one  day  killed  seven  in  ten  minutes,  kissing  his  rille  I'or  its  dmirul 
obedience.  On  the  30th,  twenty-six  were  killed.  But  bv  OcIijIilt 
14,  no  more  were  seen. 

TJio  worst  march  of  the  whole  journey  began  December  lU :  it 
became  a  continued  struggle  for  life.  The  provisit>n  of  iish  which  tho 
party  took  from  Back  River,  salmon,  and  a  sjjecies  .d'  herring,  soon  ran 
out,  and  reindetn'  W(.'re  so  scarce  that  hunters  were  often  absent  several 
daysbehu'c  getting  a  shot  at  one.  Farther  south  where  they  weio  iimre 
])lentiful,  but  the  travellers  had  to  defend  thenisi'lves  from  the  wolves, 
and  several  times  the  hunters  l)ar('ly  escaped  being  de\-oureit.  The 
reindeer  llesh  was  now  too  lean  to  afford  good  nonrishmeid.  and  luid  to 
be  eaten,  moreover,  not  oidy  raw.  l)ut  when  frozen  so  stiff  that  it  laid  tn 
be  sawed  into  suudl  V)its  and  thawed  in  the  mouth  :  and  id'  lard  and 
tallow  they  had  oidy  enough  to  light  their  igloos.  More  than  hall'  iht 
dogs  died  on  the  route. 

Snow-storms  often  kept  the  ])arTy  in  camp  several  days  :  one  (d'  them 
lasting  thirteen.     The  average  temperature  of  the  month  of  Deeemher 


(I. 
ah 


boiit  \vi  i(.  i[| 
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tlif  simw.  ii 
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11(1  Scliwatkii 
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('    ('lll|ll  \     >lril. 

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l'(i(i-liMi-ali 

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iii<4',  Sdoii  rail 
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loiirc'l.  Plie 
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hat  it  liud  to 
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hail  liair  lilt 

one  (d"  tl.em 
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COL.L)   WEATllKU. 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


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V 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporalion 


'<«^ 


23  WIST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M5S0 

(716)872-4503 


■^ 


358 


AMERICAN   EXPLOKATIONS   IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


!••  >■ 


SPr  'I 


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was  — 50"  F.,  and  tlie  minimum  reading  — 69°.  The  mean  for  January 
was  —  53° ;  the  minimum  observed  January  3,  —  71°.  The  mean  tem- 
perature in  February  was  —  45° ;  the  lowest  —  69°.  The  therniumet.r 
stood  60°  under  the  zero  point  for  twenty-seven  several  days,  and  for 
sixteen  days  it  was  below  —68°.  The  natives  said  that  the  winttr 
was  an  unusually  severe  one.  The  theiinonicter  had  registered  on  Hie 
10th, — 62°;  on  the  28th,  in  the  morning,  it  read, — 69°;  at  noon. 
—  64° ;  and  at  5  P.  m.,  —  68° ;  the  lowest,  101°  below  the  freezing  point. 
It  has  been  determined  to  abandon  the  river  and  strike  directly  fur 
Depot  Island. 

But  for  the  excellent  character  of  the  American  fire-arms  used,  it 
seems  imi)ossible  that  this  return  journey  could  have  been  made.  Every- 
thing, even  the  iron  and  wood,  was  seriously  affected  by  such  extreme 
cold,  and  when  the  guns  were  brought  into  the  warmer  temperat.ire  of 
the  igloo  only  for  cleaning,  every  particle  of  the  gathered  moisture  must 
be  removed  before  they  again  met  the  cold.  It  was  also  a  very  ditli- 
cult  thing  to  get  near  enough  to  such  wary  game  as  the  reindeer,  for 
the  sound  of  the  hunter's  footsteps,  though  his  shoe-soles  were  covered 
with  fur,  was  carried  by  the  wind  to  be  heard  more  than  a  mile  oft'. 
Yet,  by  the  superiority  of  the  guns,  whenever  the  party  came  upon  the 
reindeer,  especially  when  travelling  against  a  head-wind,  preveiitinir 
the  approach  of  the  hunter  from  being  heard  by  the  deer,  the  breech- 
loaders and  magazine  guns  did  their  work  so  effectively  that  they  could 
lay  in  a  stock  of  meat  a  day  or  two  ahead  for  the  igloos. 

The  country  began  to  swarm  with  wolves  dail}!-  met  with;  tliey 
killed  some  of  the  dogs  and  attacked  the  natives.  February  23,  twenty 
attacked  Too-loo-ah,  who  beat  them  off  with  the  butt  of  his  gun  until 
he  had  killed  one  and  made  his  escape,  while  the  others  were  fighting 
over  and  devouring  the  carcass. 

March  4,  with  light  sleds  and  by  forced  marches  Schwatka  had  got 
back  to  Depot  Island,  but  to  his  amazement  he  here  learned  from 
Ar-mou  that  Captain  Barry  had  not  left  with  him  the  provisions  be- 
longing to  the  party,  and  which  he  had  promised  to  leave  with  tliat 
faithful  native  ;  nor  was  there  more  than  one  ship  in  the  bay  and  that 
was  at  Marble  Island.     A  further  journey  was  therefore  necessary, 


RESULTS   OF   THE   EXPEDITION. 


359 


wliii  li  was  ended  on  the  2l8t,  only  when  the  whaler  "George  Mary"  was 
boarded  at  midnight,  Captain  Gilder  being  the  tirst  to  reach  the  ship. 

'J'hus  was  a  continuous  journey  safely  accomplished  through  Arctic 
snows,  gales,  and  darkness  during  winter  months,  a  journey  une(iualled 
ill  all  Arctic  history.  Gilder,  who  was  ever  with  Schwatka  at  the 
iVoiil,  though  in  his  recital  of  the  march  through  modesty  lie  exclu- 
sivt'ly  accredits  others,  sums  up  the  record  in  terms  which  are  worth  a 
close  citation:  — 

"  During  the  year  that  we  were  absent  from  the  verge  of  civilization, 
as  lilt'  winter  harbor  of  the  whalers  may  be  considered,  we  liad  travelled 
two  thousand  eight  hundred  and  nineteen  geographical,  or  three  thou- 
saiiil  two  hundred  and  fifty-one  statute  miles,  most  of  which  was  over 
unexplored  territory,  constituting  the  longest  sledge  journey  ever  made, 
both  as  to  time  and  distance,  and  the  only  extended  sledge  journey 
ever  accomplished  in  the  Arctic,  except  such  as  have  been  made 
through  countries  well  known  and  over  routes  almost  as  thoroughly 
established  as  post-roads.  Our  sledge  journey  stands  conspicuous  as 
till'  ouly  one  ever  made  through  the  entire  course  of  an  Arctic  winter, 
and  one  regarded  by  the  natives  as  exceptionally  C(dd,  as  the  amount 
ot'  sulfering  encountered  by  those  remaining  at  Depot  Island  attested, 
and  further  confirmed,  as  we  afterward  learned,  by  the  experience  of 
those  who  wintered  at  Wager  River,  where  many  deaths  occurred, 
attributable  to  the  unusual  severity  of  the  season.  The  party  success- 
fully withstood  the  lowest  temperature  ever  experienced  by  white  men 
in  the  field,  recording  one  observation  of  — 71  degrees  Fahrenheit, 
sixteen  days  whose  average  was  one  hundred  degrees  below  the  freez- 
injf  iK)int,  and  twenty-seven  which  registered  below  — 60  degrees,  dur- 
injT  most  of  which  the  party  travelled.  In  fact,  the  expedition  never 
took  cold  into  consideration,  or  halted  a  single  day  on  that  account. 

"  During  the  entire  journey,  its  reliance  for  food  l)oth  for  man  and 
heast  may  be  said  to  have  been  solely  upon  the  resources  of  the 
cnuutry,  as  the  expedition  started  with  less  than  one  montli's  rations, 
and  it  is  the  first  in  which  tlie  white  men  of  an  expedition  voluntarily 
livod  exclusively  upon  the  same  fare  as  its  Eskimo  assistants,  thus 
showing  that  white  men  can  safely  adapt  themselves  to  the  climate  and 


Ufffl'!  ' 

m 

k 


;■  n 


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3G0 


A.MEKICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


'■:'-3 


1    H 


".*ir 


^'t 


HiMt 


life  of  the  Eskimos,  and  prosecute  their  journeys  in  any  seasdii  or 
under  such  circumstances  as  would  the  natives  of  the  country  tlicm. 
selves/'  [The  Second  Expedition  of  C'a[)tain  Hall  accorded  with  this 
last-named  fact,  except  in  the  matter  of  his  partial  dependence  mi  the 
whalers.  —  .1.  E.  >>.] 

"The  Expedition  was  the  first  to  make  a  summer  search  ovci'  tho 
route  of  the  lost  crews  of  the  'Erebus'  and  'Terror,'  and  whih-  su 
doing  buried  the  remains  of  every  mendjer  of  that  fated  party  jiIkivo 
ground,  so  that  no  longer  the  bleached  bones  of  those  unfortunate 
explorers  whiten  the  coasts  of  King  William  Land  and  Adelaide  i'cn- 
insuhi  as  an  eternal  rebuke  to  civilization,  but  all  have,  lor  the  time 
being  at  least,  received  decent  and  respectful  interment." 

"The  most  important  direct  result  of  the  labors  of 'the  Expedition 
will  undoubtedly  be  considered  the  establishing  the  loss  of  the  Fraid<liii 
records  at  the  boat  place  in  Starvation  Cove ;  and  as  ever  since  Dr. 
Rae's  exjiedition  of  1854,  whicli  ascertained  the  fate  of  the  jKuty,  the 
recovery  of  the  Records  has  been  the  main  object  of  subsecpioiit  ex- 
ploring in  this  direction,  the  history  of  the  Franklin  Expedition  may 
now  be  considered  as  closed.  As  ascertaining  the  fate  of  the  piuty 
was  not  so  gratifying  as  would  have  been  their  rescue  or  the  relict  of 
any  number  thereof,  so  is  it  in  establishing  the  fate  of  the  record  of 
their  labors.  Next  in  importance  to  their  recovery  must  be  considered 
the  knowledge  of  their  irrecoverable  loss.  .  .  .  The  excellent  maiiajfc- 
ment  of  the  Commander,  Lieutenant  Schwatka,  secured  his  party  from 
many  of  the  usual  misfortunes  of  those  in  the  field  and  deprived  the 
Expedition  of  the  sensational  character  it  might  have  assumed  in  other 
hands.  Every  contingency  was  calculated  upon  and  provided  for  before- 
hand."— "Schwatka's  Search,  Sledging  in  the  Arctic  in  quest  of  Frank- 
lin Records."     Charles  Scribner's  Sons,  1881. 


THE   RETURN   TO   THE   UNITED   STATES. 

It  was  gratifying  to  all  the  friends  of  the  daring  explorers,  to  greet 
them  safe,  and  in  fair  health  on  their  return  to  the  comforts  of  home, 
September  22,  1880.     It  is  still  more  pleasing  to  find  on  the  records  of 


AWARD   OF   MEDAL  TO   LIEUTENANT   SCinVATKA. 


361 


American  Arctic  Explorations,  the  histcry  of  such  an  Kxi)C(liti()ii,  an 
iidilition  to  the  hibors  of  previous  ex[)htrers  all  the  more  valuable  as 
cleiiMtnstrating  wliat  can  bo  effected  even  amidst  the  tempests  of  the 
heavens  and  the  ice-covered  and  desolate  lauds  under  foot,  by  fore- 
siylit,  executive  ability,  and  undaunted  iron  will.  The  journey  of 
Lieutenant  Schwatka  and  his  companions  stands  the  counterpart  on 
land  with  the  drift  of  the  ice-floe  party  conducted  by  Tyson  from  the 
"riihiris,"  unexampled  in  history.  The  Societe  dc  (r^oi/raphie  of 
Paris  awarded  to  Lieutenant  Schwatka  one  of  their  gold  medals  given 
tn  exi>lorers.  Tlie  Comptcs  liemhis  of  the  Society  for  the  first  general 
session,  April  20,  1883,  furnish  the  opening  address  of  M.  de  Lesseps» 
who  referred  to  the  fact  that  it  was  the  fifty-fourth  year  in  whieh  the 
Society  had  awarded  its  highest  honors,  more  than  half  of  which  had 
hcen  decreed  to  Frenchmen,  among  whom  he  was  proud  of  having  place. 

On  the  presentation  of  the  Report  frt)m  the  Prize  Connnission  on 
the  journey  of  Lieutenant  Schwatka  to  King  William  Land,  the  Com- 
mission expressed  their  regret  through  Count  Louis  de  Turenne,  that 
Mr.  Morton,  U.  S.  Minister,  had  been  prevented  from  being  present  to 
rect'ive  liiis  Medal,  but  were  pleased  that  one  of  the  Legation  repre- 
sented him.  M.  de  Turenne  further  said:  "Our  Commission  has 
thoroughly  examined  the  merits  and  the  geographical  relations  of  Lieu- 
tenant Schwatka's  journey,  and  you  will  permit  me  to  draw  from  it 
its  moral  bearing.  England  and  the  United  States,  as  everyone  knows, 
have  had  some  earnest  disputes,  but  innuediately  on  the  api)earance  of 
tlie  probable  disaster  of  the  'Erebus'  and  the  'Terror,'  the  United 
States  exhibited  the  noblest  activity,  and  made  the  grandest  sacrifice 
of  men  and  money  to  succor  the  Expedition,  whose  chief  had  once 
fiiught  against  them.  The  journey  of  Mr.  Schwatka  has  been  the 
eiiilogue  of  the  series  of  general  croisades  made  by  the  United  States  to 
recover  the  remains  of  the  great  Franklin.  The  (leographical  Society 
is  happy  to  have  it  in  its  power  to  crown  the  scientific  results  of  an 
enterprise  inspired  by  such  noble  sentiments." 

Addressing  the  representative  of  the  U.  S.  Legation,  M.  de  Lesseps 
said:  "Be  pleased  to  forward  this  medal  to  your  courageous  countryman, 
\vith  the  expression  of  our  esteem  for  him  and  his  companions.     W© 


Its   1 


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1^ 

! 

.    '       f"'  1 

362 


AMERICAN  EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE  ICE  ZONES. 


,iT 


rl 


M 


hope  also  that  the  Gordon  Bennetts,  the  Lorillards,  and  the  otlier 
Mecjenases  of  science  in  the  United  States  will  accept  the  acknowltilir. 
nients  addressed  to  them  by  our  prize  commission,  and  cordially  ( mi. 
curred  in  by  all  their  associates."  The  beautiful  gold  medal,  whit  h  is 
the  counterpart  of  the  Roquette  Medal  awarded  to  Captain  Hull,  Ims 
been  received  by  the  State  Department  at  Washington,  and  forwaidol 
by  the  War  Department  to  Lieutenant  Schwatka.  It  may  be  noud  m 
this  connection  that  the  SociStS  de  OSoyraphie,  the  oldest  of  geogniplii- 
cal  societies,  has  thus  shown  its  appreciation  of  each  American  Arctic 
discoverer,  —  Kane,  Hayes,  Hall,  and  Schwatka. 

By  an  Act  of  Congress  approved  August  7,  1882,  Lieutenant 
Schwatka's  leave-of-absence  pay  was  raised  to  that  of  full  pay  diiiimr 
the  period  of  his  expedition,  March  5,  1 878,  to  October  1,  1880,  and 
mileage  was  allowed  him  from  his  post  in  Dakota  Territory  to  New  York, 
where  he  took  command  of  the  Expedition,  and  for  his  return  at  its  close 
from  New  York  City  to  Vancouver  Barracks,  Washington  Tevritorv. 
This  action  of  the  Congress  of  the  United  States  was  a  recognition  of  Ins 
meritorious  conduct  of  the  exploration.  As  it  was  a  private  enterprise. 
no  official  report  was  required,  or  has  been  made  to  the  War  De})art- 
ment.  Lieutenant  Schwatka  is,  at  the  date  of  this  writing,  reportini,' 
to  the  Government  further  explorations  recently  made  by  him  on  the 
Yukon  River,  Alaska. 


i\  t 


NATIVE  NEEDLE-CASE. 
Presented  to  C.  F.  Hall  when  on  King  William  Land,  1869. 


id  the  other 
ackno\vltMl(r. 
ardially  cm). 
dal,  which  U 
aiii  Hull,  has 
id  forwiiidi'd 
r  be  nott^d  in 
of  geogiaphi- 
3rican  Arctic 

,  Lieutenant 
1  pay  during 
1,  1880,  and 
to  New  York, 
ru  at  its  close 
)n  Territory, 
gnition  of  his 
te  enterprise. 
War  Depart- 
ig,  reportinf,' 
r  him  on  the 


i-. 


Fi 


"'i 


f/i 


LIEUTENANT  G,  W.  DeLONG,  U.S.N. 


il- 


Entered  the  Naval  Academy  as  midshipman,  Oct.  1,  1861 ;  graduated,  Sept.  24,  1865;  pro- 
moted to  be  Ensign,  Dec.  1,  1866  ;  to  be  Master,  May  12.  1868  ;  to  be  Lieutenant,  May  26, 1869 :  to 
be  Lieutenant-Commander,  Nov.  1,  1867  ;  commanded  the  steam-launch  "Juniata"  iu  search 
of  Captain  Hall,  1873  ;  commanded  the  "  Jeauuette,"  1879-1881. 


CHAPTER    X. 

LIEUTENANT  DkLONG'S  EXPEDITION  TOWAIID  THE   POLE,   1871>-1HH1. 


TlIK  EXPEDITION  DkLONG  S  OWN  PUOMPTINCi.  —  MK.  HENNKTT  UNDEU- 
TAKES  IT.  —  SELECTION  OF  THE  KOUTE.  —  THEOKIES.  —  DeLONO's 
ILAN.  —  THE  "  JEANNETTE  "  COMMISSIONED.  —  KEPOIIT  OF  THE 
l!(»AUD  OF  INSPECTION  AT  MARE  ISLAND.  —  OFFICERS  AND  CREW. — 
SAILING  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO.  —  ARRIV^VL  AT  ST.  MICHAEL's. — 
IIKPORTS  OF  NORDENSKIOLD.  —  PASSING  THE  STRAITS.  —  ATTEMPTS 
TO  REACH  WRANGELL  AND  HERALD  ISLANDS. —  FROZEN  IN  THE  PACK 
SKI'TEMBER  6.  —  CHIPP  ATTEMPTS  THE  CROSSING  TO  HERALD  ISLAND. 

—  THE    "JEANNETTE"    DRIFTS   NORTHWEST    PAST   WRANGELL   LAND. 

—  PUMPING  BEGUN.  —  LIEUTENANT  DANENHOWER  DISABLED.  — THE 
IIETURN  OF  THE  SUN. —  EXPERIMENT  OF  THE  WINDMILL  PUMP.  — 
DiLONG  ABANDONS  THE  THEORY  OF  THE  CURRENTS.  —  SCIENTIFIC 
onSERVATIONS  KEPT  UP.  —  THE  FROZEN  SUMMER.  —  AURORAL  PHE- 
NOMENA.—  CONTINUED  DRIFT  NORTHWEST.  —  DISCOVERY  OF  .JEAN- 
N1;TTE   and    HENRIETTA    ISLANDS.  —  THE    "JEANNETTE"    CRUSHED. 

—  LANDING  ON  THE  FLOE.  — DISCOVERY  OF  BENNETT  ISLAND; 
DESCRIPTION  OF  IT  BY  DR.  AMBLER.  —  THE  THREE  BOATS. — THEIR 
SEPARATION.  —  THE  WHALEBOAT  PARTY  LAND  ON  THE   LENA  DELTA. 

—  THE  FIRST  CUTTER  UNDER  DeLONG. —  SUFFERINGS.  —  DeLONG'S 
LAST  ENTRIES.  —  DANENHOWER'S  SEARCH.  —  MELVILLE's  SEARCH. — 
THE  DEAD  TEN  FOUND.  —  THEIR  BURIAL.  —  RETURN  Or  LIEUTEN- 
ANT   DANENHOWER.  —  SEARCH    BEGUN     BY    LIEUTENANT     HARBER. 

—  ENGINEER  MELVILLE'S  RETURN.  —  APPROPRIATION  TO  BRING  THE 
BODIES    HOME.  —  THEIR    EXPECTED   ARRIVAL. 


•iilii 


'■i 


EXPEDITION  TO  THE  POLE  BY  THE  WAY  OF  BERING  STRAIT  BY 
LIEUTENANT  G.  W.  DeLONG,  U.  S.  N.,  1879-81. 

THE  chief  avowed  object  of  this  Expedition  was  to  reach  the  Pole. 
It  was  the  first  organized  attempt  to  solve  the  problem  by  this 
route,  the  design  of  M.  Lambert  to  fit  out  an  Expedition  through 
tlic  Strait  having  been  defeated  by  his  premature  fall  in  the  Franco- 

(ii'iuKin  war. 

363    , 


i;  I 


I 


i 


i(ij; 


f  *'■  '  ' 


'I 

!     .1 


|i 


111. 


<  ■ 


J.  1  !i 


■  •; 


1 

i    «; 

I       y' 

•     Si 
lis 


iii. 


;  ♦  1     J  iJ 


1 1, 

i 


i  > 
r    !  ■ 


fl!  J 


ii 


8(54 


AMKltlCAN    KXl'LOUATIONH    IN    THK    WK  ZONEH. 


III ;  I  m 


From  the  Jiiitlit'iilu!  diitu  I'miiislu'd  in  tho  "Voyage  of  the  '.l(,ii|. 
lU'ttt','"*  icci'iilly  issued  under  the  edit<irshi[t  of  Mrs.  Dt'LiMiL;,  it 
uppeiirs  that  this  Kxpeditioii  was  of  l^ieuteiiaut  DeLoug's  own  |»i(iiii|,i. 
ing.  Sliortly  after  his  return  from  th(!  ".luniata's"  cruise  en  il,,. 
(Jreeidiind  eoast  in  seareh  of  Captain  Hall's  party  of  LsT^l,  he  IikI 
solicited  Mr.  Henry  (irinnell,  of  New  York,  to  lit  out  another  AkiJc 
Expedition,  hut  was  referred  by  him  to  Mr.  J.  (J.  liennett  as  the  niiin 
to  un(h>rtake  it;  Mr.  (irinnell  pleading  his  ag(>  and  his  having  done  his 
full  share  in  Arctic  Kx[)loration.  Mr.  Bennett  favorably  entcrtaiiitil 
the  ich'a  on  its  lirst  presentation,  but  the  matter  rested  until  XovemlMi, 
18T»I,  when  the  didermiinition  was  formed  to  secure  a  suitable  vessil 
and  start  for  the  North  Pole  the  following  summer. 

No  i)roper  American  ship  being  found,  DeLong  went  to  Kngland  dii 
a  two  months'  leave  of  absence  from  the  Navy  Department,  and,  iift(  r 
a  vigilant  but  unsuccessful  searcli  in  the  northern  ports  from  wlii(|i 
whaling  vessels  were  sent  out,  decided  that  the  "  Pandora,"  which,  ms 
has  been  already  stated  in  this  volume,  liad  made  two  Arctic  voyages 
under  Captain  Allen  Young,  R.  N.,  was  the  most  available  ship.  Alter 
receiving  information  of  Mr.  Bennett's  purchase  of  this  vessel,  DeLoii'^f 
figaiii  went  to  England  on  a  second  leave  of  absence  from  naval  duty  in 
the  United  States.  He  superintended  the  fitting  out  of  the  ''Pandora" 
in  the  ship-yard  at  Dei)tford,  and  when  she  was  finally  ready  for  sea, 
shipped  her  crew  at  Cowes.  After  crossing  to  Havre,  where  he  com- 
pleted his  equipment  of  charts,  books,  and  instruments,  he  sailed  lur 
San  Francisco  by  way  of  the  Horn,  July  15,  1878.  Lieutenant  J.  W. 
Danenhower,  who  had  been  on  duty  in  the    Mediterranean   on   the 

*  "  The  voyage  of  the  '  Jeannette ' ;  the  ship  and  ice  journals  of  G.  W.  DeliOng,  Lieu- 
tenant Coinniamler  U.  S.  N. ,  and  Commander  of  the  Polar  Expedition,  1S7J)-81;  cililtd 
by  his  wife,  Emma  DeLong,  2  vols.,  8vo. :  Houghton,  Mifflin  &  Co.,  Riverside  I'nss, 
Boston." 

In  preparing  the  following  Narrative  the  chief  reliance  has  been  upon  tho  voJimics 
just  named,  the  proof-sheets  being  courteously  loaned  in  advance;  the  reports  of  the 
Honorable  Secretaries  of  the  Navy,  Thompson  and  Chandler,  including  those  of  Ensineer 
Melville  and  Lieutenant  Danenhower,  the  Report  of  the  Naval  Court  of  Inquiry  for 
March  2,  1883,  including  the  testimony  of  Seamen  Noros,  Nindeniann,  and  Bartlett,  and 
the  Narrative  of  the  Expedition  by  R.  L.  Newcomb,  its  naturalist,  have  also  been  con- 
suited. 


lO  "PaiKloia"' 


FALHK   TIIKOKIKS. 


805 


r.S.  S.  *' Vivnduliii,"  had  joined  him  us  I'.xccjitivt!  Ollicei*  for  the  cniisi'. 
'I'lif  voyap^  to  San  Krancisco  was  one  ol'  on(^  liinidrt'd  and  sixly-livo 
(iii\s,  dujin^'  whifh  tin;  shiji  anchored  thivt!  times  within  the  Straits 
ol  Maj^elhin,  hnt  no  ouo  set  loot  on  shore  until  I)ucend)er  -7,  when 
she  anchored  at  the  Mure  Ishiud  Navv  Yard. 


TIIK    ItiMTK. 

In  rerjard  to  this,  DeLon^^  had  written  to  Mr.  lionnett,  January  2Pi: 
*' There  are  three  ways  lor  us  to  send  the  Kxptidition  ;  Smith's  Sound, 
itciiiig  Strait,  and  the  east  coast  ol'  (ireenland.  Ol"  the  three,  I  am  in 
I'iivor  ol"  liering  Strait,  though  something  can  l)e  said  in  hehall'  ol'  the 
eiist  coast  of  Greeidand.  Professor  Nordenskilihl  has  received  some 
inrurmatioii  from  our  Ilydrographic  Ollice  in  rehition  to  Hering  Strait, 
and  a  copy  of  this  information  will  hv  furnished  us.  Wo  may  he  able 
to  a('comi)lish  much  by  way  of  Bering  Stiait  by  leaving  San  Francisco 
as  hite  as  July  1,  but  I  would  like  to  b<!  ready  by  Juno  1  or  lO.  My 
opinion  nuiy  bo  changed  by  what  you  have  heard  from  Dr.  l*et(!rmann, 
hut  as  you  have  not  told  mo  what  that  was,  1  cannot  say  now."  What 
Ml'.  Bennett  had  heard  from  Dr.  Petcrmann,  as  afterwards  written  to 
Didiimg,  was  in  substance  tliis:  "The  eminent  geographer  felt  certain 
that  the  North  Polo  C(udd  bo  reached,  but  not  by  Smith's  Sound,  or 
IJiidin's  Bay,  nor  by  sledging;  but  by  a  ihish  which  ho  thought  coidd  be 
made  in  one  summer;  wintering  in  the  Arctic  regions  ho  considered  a 
niistake  if  it  could  in  any  way  be  avoided ;  the  Pole  should  be  reached 
in  three  summer  months  or  not  at  all.'' 

This  theoretical  advice  was  unsound.  The  Bering  Strait  route 
seems  to  have  been  determined  upon  chietly  from  a  reliance  on  the  two 
theories,  that  tlic  Japan  current  o^jencd  by  its  warm  waters  a  way 
tlu'ough  the  strait  toward  the  Pole,  and  that  Wrangell  Land  would 
prove  to  be  a  vast  continental  tract.  Dr.  Petermann  had  often  uiged 
the  idea  that  Wrangell  Land  would  be  found  to  stretch  itself  across  the 
Pole,  reappearing  as  Greenland.  The  "  Jeannette  "  was  to  follow  the 
coast-line  of  this  land,  and  then  make  sledge  exj)editions  along  the  ice 
foot.     DeLong  hoped  to  reach  it  the  first  season,  and  s])end  the  wintei 


'I 


ar.o 


AMKItlPAN    EXPLOUATIOX8   IN  THE   WK   ZONKS. 


tlu'ie  in  exphtnitioii,  and  thouce  go  to  the  extroine  limit  of  possiMo 
nuvipition.  "If  tho  ciirrciit  takes  mo  to  the  west,"  he  wrote  Ixiui,. 
starting,  "you  will  hear  of  me  through  St.  IVtershurg;  but  if  it  takes 
mo  eastward  and  northward,  there  is  no  saying  what  points  I  mav 
rea(!h  ;  hut  I  hoi»e  to  eomo  out  through  Smith's  or  Jones'  Sound."  il»> 
wrote,  "  It  is  our  intention  to  attaek  tho  I'olar  regions  by  the  way  of 
Bering  Straits,  and  if  our  etVorts  are  not  crowned  with  success,  \\(> 
shall  liavt5  made  an  attempt  in  a  new  direction  and  exaniined  a  liithcrtD 
unknown  country."  In  conversation  with  Lieutenant  Danenhowcr,  lie 
said  he  had  also  something  more  definite  and  tangible  in  view  tlnin 
reaching  the  North  Pole,  and  that  was  to  explore  Wrangell  LiiM<l  and 
tlie  Siberian  Ocean;  there  were  rumors  and  traditit)ns  of  \VraiiL,n'll 
Land  being  inhabited  or  visited  by  natives.  Tho  prospects  for  n  acli- 
ing  a  high  latitude  depended  on  the  continuity  of  tho  coast-line  to  tliu 
northward,  for  having  land  as  a  basis  of  advance  was  consideretl  one  of 
the  first  princii>les  of  I'olar  explorations. 


•V  ■  i, 


ft! 


{ 


it 


July  17,  1870,  he  wrote:  — 

At  Sea,  lat.  4V '>S'  N.,  lonR.  l.Wo'  l". 

"  If  the  season  is  favorable  to  an  advance  northward  I  shall  make 
for  Kellett  (or  Wrangell)  Land,  and  follow  along  its  east  coast  as  far 
as  we  can  go. 

"  If  everything  is  all  right  with  Nordenskiold,  and  I  hear  of  it,  there 
will  be  no  necessity  for  our  going  to  St.  Lawrence  Bay  at  all.  In  tliis 
case  I  shall  push  through  Bering  Strait  at  once  and  make  for  the  east 
side  of  Kellett  Land,  following  it  as  far  as  possible,  and  getting  to  as 
high  a  latitude  with  the  ship  as  we  can  before  getting  into  winter 
quarters.  If  our  progress  is  uninterrupted  for  some  distance,  I  shall 
content  myself  with  one  landing,  at  first  on  the  southeast  point  of 
Wrangell  or  Kellett  Land,  where  we  will  build  a  cairn  and  leave  a 
record  of  our  progress  to  date.  If  our  progress  is  interrupted,  we 
shall  no  doubt  make  frequent  landings  on  Kellett  Land,  and  build 
several  cairits ;  but,  generally  speaking,  I  shall  endeavor  to  build 
cairns  and  leave  records  every  twenty-five  nautical  miles  of  our 
track." 


I- 


|5.    i 


THE  JAPAN   CUIIUKNT, 


867 


I'Vom  OuiuilnHka  he  wrote,  "We  go  to  as  high  a  latitude  as  Cuu\  will 
1,1  us  rej'ch  in  two  years,  keeping  in  reserve  the  third  year  to  get  haek  ; 
|,i;iy  tor  my  suueess,  for  my  heart  is  set  on  this  thing." 

And,  here  although  seemingly  in  hasteful  anticipation  of  the  liistory 
wliiili  this  narrative  is  to  present,  the  writer  finds  hiniself  eompelle<l 
t(,  note,  that,  outside  of  the  reports  of  some  whaling  captains  and  of 
pure  theory,  there  appeared  little  ground  for  the  helief  in  the  extension 
of  Wrangell  I.and  beyond  the  limits  assigned  on  the  U.  S.  Ilydro- 
triapliical  Chart;  and  that  the  suiip(»s(.'d  favorable  inHuenee  of  the 
Jiipan  current  on  the  waters  of  the  Arctic  Sea,  advocated  by  Mr.  Hent 
and  others,  was  an  idea  ecpuiUy  delusive  with  that  of  an  existing  con- 
tinental tract  toward  the  INde. 

Mr.  W.  II.  Dall,  Assistant  U.  S.  Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,  in  his 
then  unpublished  report  to  the  ofhce  for  the  year  1H80,  had  thus  summed 
up  an  investigation  of  the  currents  of  Bering  Sea :  — 

''The  Kuro  Siwo,  compared  with  the  Gulf  Stream,  is  cooler,  has  a 
nuich  smaller  volume,  and  is  subject  to  serious  lluctuations  which  ap- 
pear to  be  duo  to  the  monsoons. 

''  The  Kuro  Siwo  sends  no  recognizable  branch  northward,  between 
till!  Aleutians  and  Kamchatka,  nor  from  any  other  direction  in  Bering 
Sea.  The  chief  current  of  that  sea  is  a  motion  of  cold  water  Houthwanl. 
This  has  a  superficial  stratum  above  it,  which  has,  in  summer  when  not 
interrupted  by  winds,  a  northerly  motion  of  translation,  but  is  not 
suilicient,  either  in  mass,  motion,  or  consistency  of  direction,  to  be 
entitled  to  take  rank  as  an  ocean  current.  The  surface  currents  are 
formed  by  or  chiefly  dependent  on  tides,  winds,  river  flows,  the 
southerly  motion  of  cold  water,  the  distribution  of  floating  ice,  and 
the  northerly  motion  of  slightly  warmer  surface  water;  Avhich  are 
effective  in  about  the  order  named. 

"No  warm  current  from  Bering  Sea  enters  Bering  Strait,  with 
the  exception  of  water  from  the  neighboring  rivers  or  the  adjacent 
sounds.  This  water  owes  its  heat  directly  to  the  local  action  of  the 
sun's  rays.  The  strait  is  incapable  of  carrying  a  current  of  warm  water 
of  sufficient  magnitude  to  have  any  marked  effect  on  the  condition  of 
the  Polar  Basin  just  north  of  it. 


;  I 


M^ 


► 


IS!? 


I    i. 


8t)8  AMICliU'AN    EXI'LOUATIONS    IN    TIIK    \CK   ZONKS. 

"Tlic  cmriMil.s  (Iirou^'li  i]\v  slniil  arc  (^ool  and  cliiclly  tidal,  liiil  wji], 
a  pn'ixMidtMiitinif  Icndt'iicy  northward,  as  bi)l\)r»(  'idly  si't  lorlli. 

"'I'lic  curi'i'iits  in  tli(!  v\ relic,  noitli  (if  tlic  straits,  arc  largely  f/(Y'(/(,/- 
fnt  OH  till'  triiii/n,  hut  have  tendencies  in  certain  rec(»jfni/.(!d  dirt  ci  inns. 
Notliinj^'  in  onr  knowledge  .)!'  tlieni  oilers  any  liopc  of  an  easici'  |iass;iMv 
toward  tlie  Pole, or,  in  general,  northward  through  their  agency.  Nm|||. 
ing  yet.  revealed  in  the  investigation  (d'  the  suhjcct  in  the  least  IcihIs  i,, 
support  the  widely  s|)read  liut  unphilosophical  notitui,  that  in  any  pait, 
of  the  I'idar  S(>a,  we  may  look  for  large  areas  free  from  i(H'." 


In  a  verv  iiileresting  lecture  retH'Utly  (hdiverod  before  tlu;  Anini 


I'iiii 


(Jeographical  Society  of  New  York,  Dr.  'J'honias  AntiscU,  of  the  I'.S. 
J'alcnl  Ollice,  Washington,  says :  — 

''In  May  and  .lunt>  a.  broad  warm   current  is  found   llownig  Mroiiiid 
the  sliorcs  of  the  liiu-Kiu   blands  arid  the   Honin    Islands,  which  it  I 


IIIH 


already  reached   in  April,  pi'odiu'ing  variabh;  winds  before  the  iii'>iis,n,ii 


is  established   in   full  inlluen 


{'{' 


'I'his  cui'reid   is   felt,  ofl'  tin;  ohurcs  iif 


crs 


mill 


♦lapan,  ami  has  already  received  its  .la|»anese  title  —  the  \\\i\r.\<  Sen  nr 
current  (Kuro  Siwo)  —  from  the  remarkabli!  dark  color  which  itswai 
exhibit  when  looking  t.  er  the  ship's  side, —  it  is  a  deep  blue-black 
it  can  be  thus  recogidzcd  with  ease  as  so(»n  as  it  is  attem|)lcd  lo  lie 
<'rossed.  Cradled  in  the  China,  sea,  the  o(Ts|)riug  of  the  e(pialori;il 
drift  and  its  warm  currents  among  the  Philippine  Islands,  when  il 
passes  Pormosa  in  early  sunnner,  it  is  already  a.  powerful  current,  ami 
begins  to  send  olV  lessci'  currents  while  proceeding  on  its  norflicni 
route.  .  .  .  Hut  the  waning  j)owor  of  the  Kuro  Siwo  is  indicated  by  tlic 
temperatures  td'  the  months  of  October,  November,  and  Pj»eeend)cr,  in 
Avhich  it  disa|)|.cars  between  lat.  {{0°  jMid  40°.  The  whole  ocean  is 
cooling  dt»wn,  and  the  inllueiu'o  of  the  Asiatic  shores  as  refrigerators  is 
apparent  ;  the  N.  K.  monsoon  has  set  in  and  continues  durinir  the  lirst 
three  months  of  t'jc  m>w  year  to  bring  (h)w-n  the  condition  of  the  sin- 
iace  of  th(>  Pacific  to  that  conditio!'  of  eciuilibrium  in  which  no  waniilli 
is  commuiucat(>d  from  tli(>  air  to  the  ocean.  The  S.  W.  monsoon  Inis 
ceased  to  hlow.  and  the  Kuro  Siwo  as  a  current  disaj)i)ears,  althougli  its 
warming  and  ctiualizing  dilVusion  continues  in  a  mild  way.  .  .  .  Tlic 
North    Pacilic  Ocean    has,  practically  speaking,  no  northern   outlet; 


idiil,  ))iil  will) 
ir<;('ly  (li/>,ihl- 

X'A    «lilC(l  inlis. 

oasior  |lll^s;luv 

jfoiicy.      Nntli- 

loasl.  lends  III 

lit  in  any  part 
It 

'V. 

tlu!  Anu'iicaii 

1,  of  [\w  r.s. 


Til  10 


•  IKANNI/ITK 


ACCKI'TKh    KKOM    Mil.    HKNNKTT, 


iJdO 


Ilciin*^  Straits  in  hut  a  nil  ilv.  hoc,  ami  is  no  1(m1  j^atti  of  <'ntian(M;  into  tlm 
Arctic  Ocean." —  Hullrtin,  American  (leo^iapliic^al  Scxnety,  No.  II.,  IHH.'J. 
I'lie  ol)jc(Us  iH^fore  Captain  DeLonj.^  Iiavinj^  hecni  thus  stated,  and 
the  iinrortiinato  expectation  ol'  success  entertaimid  hy  liim  in  relian(!« 
ii|i()ii  tli(!  autluu-itii^s  lirst  muned,  \\\v.  thread  of  tlu;  min'ativ(;  is  ro- 
snmcd  at  San  h'rancisco.  The  ".leannotte  "  was  ytit  th(!  private  prop- 
erly of  Mr.  Uennell,  l)ut  his  own  judf^UKUit  iully  aeeorch^d  with  tho 
;i(|vi((!  given  in  the  outset  hy  Lieutenant  DeLong,  that  the  shi|»  shouhl 
lie  placed  in  every  respect  uniUsr  Naval  Command,  and  a  hill  was  tluMo- 
I'orc  prom[»tly  introduced  into  Conj^ress  that  the  (lovernimuit  should 
accept  the  ".leaniuUto  "  lo'"  the  purjtosivs  of  a  voyage  of  exploration. 
Tlif  A<'t  authorizing  this  provided  that  Mr.  HcMUK^tt  might  uso  in  fitting 
licr  I'lir  her  voyage  any  materials  he  might  hav(!  on  hand  for  it;  might 
enlist  the  necessary  crow  for  s|)ecial  service,  their  pay  to  he  t«unporarily 
met  iVom  tho  i)ay  oH  tho  Navy,  and  to  ho  paid  or  refunded  hy  him  under 
the  future  onh^rs  of  tho  Secretary  of  the  Navy  as  he  might  issue  tlu^se. 
The  sliip  was  to  proceed  on  her  voyage  under  the  instructions  of  tho 
Niivy  Department,  ami  the  men  were  to  he  suhject  in  all  r(!S|)ec,ts  to 
th(!  Articles  of  War  and  Navy  regidations  and  discipliiu;.  This  y\ct, 
approved  Fehruary  'J7,  1871>,  was  sup[»lemenlal  to  tlu!  onti  ap|)rove  1 
March  IS,  1M7S,  whii-h  had  aiifliori/ed  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury 
"to  issuti  an  American  Kegisler  to  tin;  vessel, and  tlu;  President  ol  {\m 
(hiilcd  States  to  (hitail  with  their  own  (M)ns(!nt  commissioned,  warrant, 


ami  petty  ol1i(!ers  not  to  exceed   ten  in  numher,  t(»  a(rt  as  olhcers  to 
.said  vessel  during  her  lirst  voyage  lo  tin;  Arctic.  Seas." 

I'lider  the  authority  of  these  Ads,  Secretary  Thom|(Son  on  the;  18tFii 
iif.Iiinc,  1870,  gave  to  I)eL<ing  his  instructions,  wlii(di,  how(!ver,  left  the 
details  to  tli(!  ex|)eri(Mice,  dis(;retion,  and  judgment  of  IIk;  Commander. 
Tlicy  emhraeed  the  provision,  that,  on  rea(diing  l»ering  Sliait,  he 
shdidd  "make  diligent  inciuiry  at  su(di  |»oinls  where  JKMleemcd  it  lil<(dy 
that  information  coul.l  he  ohlaincfl  coiiccniing  the  fat(!  of  l'r»»fess<)r 
NnidcnskiJild  ;  if  lu!  had  goo<l  an<l  sul'licicnl  reasons  for  h(di(!ving  Noi- 
(li'iiskilild  was  safe,   lu;  would   |iro('t'cd   on   his  voyjigc!  ;   if  (dherwise,  he 


•i. 


Ifii 


'    » 


\\i) 


idd  pursue  such   a  (loiirse  as  would    he  jiidgfil    iieee.ssary  for   his  aid 


and  i'(di(> 


r 


370 


AMEIUCAN    EXPLORATIONS    IN   THE    ICE   ZONES. 


un 


'IhW 


h 


t\  '* 


" 


Ten  days  lator,  tlie  sliip  was  put  in  connnission,  when  the  silk  lliur 
was  used  which  had  been  made  by  Mrs.  DeLong  to  be  unfuiled  when 
taking  possession  of  any  new-found  land  and  when  the  highest  laiitudc 
was  reached.  The  following  account  of  tlie  vessel  whicii  has  iiiudc  an 
historic  record  of  such  interest  is  in  place:  "The  *  Pandora'  was  l)iii|( 
at  Devonport,  England,  and  was  lirst  commissioned  by  Commander  \V.  F. 
Ruxton,  R.  N.,  who  sailed  in  lier  for  the  coast  of  Africa,  on  which  coast 
she  was  on  duty  for  the  term  of  four  years,  —  her  only  conunissioii  in 
the  British  Navy.  Captain  Sir  Allen  W.  Young,  R.  N.  Reserve,  i)iir- 
chased  her  from  the  Admiralty  for  his  first  Arctic  cruise  in  DSTA,  nnd 
had  her  rigged  at  Southampton  as  a  barquentine,  and  fortified  luid  pre- 
pared with  all  the  modern  equipments  of  an  Arctic  exploring  ship.  Ij,. 
made  his  second  Arctic  voyage  in  her  as  far  as  Peel  Straits  in  ISTti, 
returning  to  Portsmouth,  England,  in  Novend)er  of  that  year.  JJoili 
voyages  were  severe  tests  of  the  strength  of  the  ship ;  on  the  second  in 
lat.  75°  10'  N.,  long.  62°  7'  W.,  he  drifted  live  days  helplessly  with  the 
pack  which  drove  him  uj)  into  Melville  Bay,  and  from  which  he  eseajied 
by  the  change  of  the  wind  breaking  up  the  ice,  and  l)y  j)utting  on  (he 
ship  his  wlu)le  steam-power.  As  described  by  DeLong  in  his  letter  to 
Lieutenant  Daneidiower,  dated  London,  June  2,  1878,  "the  'Pandora' 
was  of  four  hundred  and  >  '  ,y  tons  (builders'  tonnage),  one  hnndred 
and  forty-two  feet  long,  t  '  -^-fi.e  feet  beam;  and  drew  when  loaded 
with  her  Arctic  outlit,  about  thirteen  feet;  barque-rigged,  rolling  topsails 
and  trices  up  her  screw;  steams  or  sails  about  six  knots,  and  is  a  neat, 
tidy  little  ship.  She  had  been  thoroughly  repaired  and  was  put  in  shape, 
her  engine  force  increased  to  two  hundred  horse-power,  and  she  liad  a 
wide  spread  of  canvass."  In  reply  to  inquiries  recently  made  by  the 
Naval  Court  of  Inquiry,  Sir  Allen  Young  (November  22, 1882)  deposed 
before  W.  J.  Hoppin,  Secretary  of  the  U.  S.  Legation,  London,  that  he 
had  considered  the  "Pantlura"  lit  for  Arctic  service,  both  as  regards 
strength  and  model,  basing  this  opinion  on  his  actual  experience  in  lier. 
and  on  his  service  in  the  "Fox."  He  believed  her  to  be  far  su[)erior 
to  the  "Fox."  It  is  known  that  the  ship  was  parted  with  by  the 
owner  most  reluctantly. 

At  the  Navy  Yard,  Mare  Island,  California,  during  the  niontii  of 


fi 


BS. 


THE   FITTINO-OUT   AT   SAN   FUANCISCO. 


sn 


L'li  the  silk  tla^r 
unt'uilcd  when 
igliest  lalitiidi! 
i\i  has  iii;ul(>  an 
tlora'  was  !)iiilt 
mmandcrW.  V. 
on  which  cuast 
r  commission  in 
\.  lleservc,  pur- 
se in  IHT;"),  and 
jrtilied  and  jtri- 
oring  ship,     lit- 
Straits  in  iSTii, 
iiat  year.     Uoth 
)n  the  second  in 
.plessly  with  tlic 
rliich  he  escaped 
V  putting  on  llie 
in  his  letter  lo 
"the  'Tanihira' 
e),  one  hmnhcd 
evv  when  h)aded 
,  rolling  toi»sails 
s,  and  is  a  neat, 
as  put  in  sliape, 
,  and  she  had  a 
ly  made  hy  the 
,  1882)  deposed 
iLondon,  that  he 
oth  as  regards 
tperience  in  her. 
be  far  sui)ericr 
3d  with  by  the 

the   month  of 


January,  1870,  a  Board  of  Naval  Olhcers  examined  the  '•  Jeannette," 
ani  reported  in  obedience  to  the  orders  of  the  Commandant  of  the 
Yard,  Commodore  E.  K.  Colhoun,  wiiat  repairs  were  needed,  with  an 
estimate  of  their  probable  cost.  Tiie  suggestions  of  the  '*  )ard  which 
was  composed  of  Chief  Engineers  M.  Fletcher  and  (i.  F.  Kutz,  Com- 
mander L.  Kempff,  and  Naval  Constructor  George  W.  Much,  were 
niaiie  in  conference  with  the  Commander,  who  forwarded  a  full  report 
to  Mr.  Bennett,  adding  the  result  of  his  own  careful  and  minute  ex- 
amination. As  the  iinal  decision  of  her  outfit  rested  with  the  Secretary 
of  the  Navy,  Captain  DeLong  was  ordered  to  Washington,  where  he 
arrived  February  15,  and  was  most  cordially  received  by  Secretary 
Thompson,  who  expressed  himself  as  personally  and  ollicially  interested 
in  this  Expedition.  March  11,  Connnodores  Easby,  English,  and  Shock, 
Chiefs  of  the  Bureaus  of  Construction,  of  Equipment,  and  of  Steam- 
engineeering,  forwarded  under  the  sanction  of  Secretary  Thompson 
instructions  to  tlie  Connnandant  of  the  Yard  at  Mare  Island  to  repair 
and  strengthen  the  "Jeannette,"  and  furnish  to  her  the  su])i)lies  still 
needed  for  her  Arctic  cruise.  The  work  to  be  done  on  the  yacht  was  to 
he  in  accordance  with  an  enclosed  memorandum ;  the  estimatetl  cost  of 
repairs  and  alterations  submitted  by  the  Board  wdiich  has  been  named 
exc(!eded  $42,500;  the  outlay  finally  rose  nearly  to  !iiilOO,000. 

June  26,  a  second  Naval  Board  composed  of  Captain  P.  C.  Johnson, 
Commander  C.  J.  McDougal,  Naval  (Constructor  G.  \V.  Much,  and 
Chief  Engineers  G.  F.  Kutz  and  Edward  Farmer,  reported  to  Com- 
modore Colhoun,  in  reply  to  his  order  of  the  Oth  to  state  whether  the 
re{)airs  and  alterations  recommended  by  the  Board  of  Survey  had  been 
made,  whether  any  other  work  not  embraced  in  it  but  considered  neces- 
sary had  been  done,  and  whether,  in  their  ()[)inion,  the  ship  had  been  so 
far  as  practicable  repaired  and  placed  in  condition  for  service  in  the 
Arctic  Ocean.  The  Report  was  an  affirmative  reply  to  the  points 
named  by  the  Commodore  as  regards  the  re^jairs  and  necessary  altera- 
tions. It  embraced,  however,  the  statement  that,  "while  she  had  been 
repaired  and  placed  in  condition  for  Arctic  service,  so  far  as  practicable, 
it  was  not  possible  in  the  opinion  of  the  Board  to  make  her  particularly 
adapted  for  an  extended  Arctic  cruise."      The  order  convening  the 


If 


I  ?^ 


iiV 


m 


i^  V 


m 


M    i 


I  !  :; 


372 


AMKUIOAN    KXl'LOItATIONS    IN   TIIK    K'K   ZONKS. 


IJoaid,  the  Report  said,  "did  not  ie(iuiro  uny  exprossiou  of  o|iiiiiii|, 
furtluT  tliaii  wiiat  was  thus  expressed  in  its  Report."  "As  it  was 
a  private  enterprise,  and  the  ship  had  been  purchased  and  was  s;iii>. 
factory  to  those  most  interested  in  the  enterprise,  it  was  rullici  a 
delicate  thing  to  express  an  unfavorable  opinion  of  it  in  our  ol'liiial 
eaj)acity."  * 

'J'hc  preparation  of  the  "Jeannette,"  carried  forward  durinuf  he- 
Long's  absence  in  Washington  under  the  supervision  of  Lieutcnam 
C.  W.  Chi[)p  and  Master  Danenliower  was  conii)leted  after  the  vciuin 
of  the  Lieutenant  by  his  own  innnediate  care.  Writing  to  Mr.  licinictt. 
after  leaving  San  Francisco,  lie  said:  "Finally,  all  work  came  to  an 
end,  and  the  ship  was  turned  over  to  me.  I  am  perfectly  satisfied  witli 
her.  She  is  everything  I  want  for  the  expedition,  but  a  little  small 
for  all  I  want  to  carry  in  her.  We  nuist  remember,  however,  we  iiic 
making  her  do  the  work  of  an  exj^edition  that  has  heretofore  generally 
required  two  ships.  We  have  evciy  appliance  for  all  kinds  of  scioiititic 
experiments.  Our  outfit  is  simply  i)erfect,  whether  for  ice  or  navitfa- 
tion,  astronomical  work,  magnetic  work,  gravity  experiments,  or  col- 
lections of  Natural  History.  We  have  a  good  crew,  good  food,  and  a 
good  shi|) ;  and  I  think  we  have  the  right  kind  of  stuff  to  dare  all  that 
man  can  do."  f 

*  Hy  tlio  Act  of  Congress,  however,  and  the  Secretary's  instructions,  it  woulil  scciu 
she  was  iui(hM'  full  Xaval  law. 

t  Before  the  court  of  inquiry  convened  at  the  Navy  Department,  October  5,  ISSi'.  iln' 
deposition  of  Xaval  Constructor  Much,  made  at  San  Francisco,  showed  that  in  the  opiiiidu 
of  the  IJoani  the  model  or  form  of  the  "  Jeannctte"  was  not  adapted  for  ice  navi,i;aiioii. 
Constructor  Much  agreeing  with  liieutenant  Danenhower's  testimony  that  in  his  opinion 
she  was  scaworlliy  hut  not  lit  for  extended  exploration,  being  an  old  vessel  of  poor  niiMlil. 
constructed  of  materials,  t>f  sizes,  and  a  gciUMal  arrangement,  more  suitable  for  a  yaclUllian 
for  an  ordinary  built  nu'rchant-vcsscl  of  the  same  displacement.  The  repairs  made  in  Kn;;- 
land  were  for  the  most  jurt  superficial,  of  poor  workmanship  and  inferior  material,  mi 
much  so  that  it  was  found  necessary  to  icnu)ve  and  replace  with  better  material.  Tin 
Connnandant  and  all  other  officers  of  the  yard  did  all  that  could  he  done  under  the  ciivnni- 
stances  to  render  the  "Jeannette"  efficient  for  the  contemplated  expedition,  and  whatcvi'i 
opinions  may  have  existed  in  reference  to  her  fitness,  she  proved  henself  able  for  dvi'i 
twelve  months  towithstand  the  heavy  floes  and  crushing  ice  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  in 
all  probability  no  vessel,  ^.owever  strongly  built,  could  withstand  such  a  continued  strain. 

In  this  last  judgment,  the  finding  of  the  Naval  Court  of  Inquiry  named  above  acioi.is. 
It  recites  that  "  although  the  weight  of  the  evidence  shows  that  she  was  not  especially  idliii''- 


KS. 

>on  of  oiiiiiidii 

'     "As   it   was 

and  was  saii-,. 

was   ratlicr  a 

in  our  otVuial 

ird  durin«f  Dc- 
of  LieutciKiiii 
fter  the  vciiiin 
to  Mr.  lU'iiiictt. 
rk  came  to  an 
y  satisfied  witli 
t  a  little  sniiiU 
lowever,  we  arc 
iofore  generally 
nds  of  seientilic 
I*  ice  or  navii,fa- 
rinients,  or  ('ol- 
)od  food,  and  a 
to  dare  all  that. 

ons,  it  woulil  Mi'iii 

)ctober5,  ISS-J.  ilif 
I  that  in  tlie  opinion 

for  ice  naviiiation. 

tliat  in  ills  opinion 
[ssol  of  poor  iiKiili'l, 
Lblefora  yadit  lli;in 
[pairs  niatlt'  i"  I'.nj;- 

iforior  niati'i'ial,  so 
Iter  material.  Tlif 
|e  under  tlMM'iicnni- 

ition,aml  wlmtivor 

l^rself  able  for  ovoi' 

rrtie  Ocean,  and  in 
eontinueil  slniin. 

lied  altove  ai  roi.ls. 

lot  especially  ;ltlai>t- 


OFKIdKWS    AND  CUKW. 


1)K1»ARTUIIIC   OK   THE   "JEANNICTTE. 


878 


.Inly  8,  1870,  Captain  DeLong  reported  to  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy 
tjial  tiie  shi})  being  in  all  respects  ready  for  sea,  would  sail  at  8  v.  M.  of 
lliat  tlay,  and  would  proceed  with  all  despatch  to  the  Island  of  Onna- 
laska,  and  thence  to  St.  Paul's  and  to  St.  Michael's,  Alaska,  at  whicii  last 
jKtint  it  was  hoped  that  some  tidings  wonld  he  had  of  Professor  Nor- 
(lenskiold  and  his  party.  Failing  in  this,  St.  Lawrence  liay  in  Sihcria 
would  be  visited  in  further  quest ;  should  nothing  there  i)e  learned, 
tjio  course  would  be  through  Bering  Straits,  and  thence  skirt  the  coast 
of  Siberia  as  far  westward  as  navigation  would  permit. 

The  complement  of  ollicers  and  crew  embraced  the  following  names  : 
(ioorge  W.  DeLong,  Lieutenant  U.S.  Navy,  connnanding;  ('harles  W. 
Cliipp,  Lieutenant  U.  S.  Navy,  executive  oHicer ;  .lolui  W.  Daneidiower, 
iiiasttM-,  U.  S.  Navy ;  George  W.  Melville,  passed  assistant  engineer; 
r,  S.  Navy  ;  Dr.  James  M.  Ambler,  passed  assistant  surgeon  U.  S.  Navy  ; 
William  M.  Dunbar,  seaman,  for  special  service  as  ice  pilot;  Jerome  J. 
Collins,  entered  on  the  books  as  seaman,  but  for  special  service  as  me- 
teorologist ;  Uaymond  L.  Newcomb,  also  entered  on  the  books  as  seaman, 
for  si)ecial  service  as  naturalist  and  taxidermist ;  Walter  Lee,  machinist ; 
James  IL  Bartlett,  first-class  fireman ;  George  W.  Boyd,  second-class 
tirenian ;  John  Cole,  boatswain;  Alfred  Sweetman,  carpenter;  with 
Seamen  W.  F.  C.  Nindemann;  Louis  P.  Noros;  H.  W.  Leach;  Henry 
Wilson  ;  C.  A.  Gortz  ;  P.  K.  Johnson  ;  Edward  Star ;  Henry  D.Warren  ; 
II.  11.  Kaack ;  A.  G.  Kuehne;  F.  E.  Manson ;  H.  ILEricksen;  Adolph 

pil  in  strenjrtli  or  model  for  navigation  in  the  Arctic  region,  the  fact  that  a!i  experiei\ced 
Arctic  explorer  had  voluntarily  made  two  cruises  in  her  to  the  Arctic  Seas  stistains  the 
juilsnient  and  care  shown  in  her  selection  when  last  purchased.  The  condition  of  the 
Meannette'  on  her  departure  from  the  port  of  San  Francisco  was  good  and  satisfactory 
to  lier  officers  and  crew,  except  that  she  was  imavoidably  deeply  loaded,  a  defect  which 
corrected  itself  by  the  consimiption  of  coal,  provisions,  and  stores."  It  is  imhappily  well 
known  that  the  provisions  were  reduced  in  stock  not  only  l)y  consumption  but,  as  not  un- 
usual in  like  eases,  by  condemnation  of  some  of  them  on  their  first  arrival  from  Xew  York. 
In  regard  to  her  fitness  for  the  work  before  her  Lieutenant  Danenhower's  judgminit  ex- 
prp^^sed  to  the  Board  was  decidedly  adverse.  The  preceding  statements  seem  necessary 
for  ;ui  impartial  judgment  and  for  demonstrating  in  connection  with  the  history  which  fol- 
lows, that  no  vessel  can  be  built  which  can  outlive  a  conflict  with  the  ice  of  the  North 
Polar  Sea. 


K 


•I 
! 


a74 


AMKHM'VN    K\ri,n|{,\TloNH    IN    TIIK    l<"K    Zi»NiW. 


Dressier:  ('linilew  'Totij;' Siii^ ;    All  Sin^;   All  Sinn:  iiimI  eniil  ln'iivi>i> 
Wiihcr  Sliiirvell,   Nelse  IvciMnii.  iiiiti    .Inlin    LiiiilcrlMmli. 

riio   full    list    (lien   niiiiilM'rrtI   lliirly-lwo   |t('is<tiiM.     Oj'  Mio  ulllrrK 


I. 


iiMiliMiiiiif   (  lii|)p   Will    1)<>  r<>tn(>nil)(M'(>ii  dm  litiving  hiM 


I  lis  li 


I) 


\h\ 


<<>ll^  H    ;isNii- 


iMiito  on  lli(M<rnis(>  I'lir  Hull  in  (lie  liltle  ''.Inniiilii,"  .liilv,  iHTvl:  li«>  Ii:ii| 
volnnlccrctj  in  cIoho  rri('ii»lslii|»  willi  ncLoiijr  lor  lliis  MxpiMlilion,  mi 
iiig,  iii'lor  luH  (U'liU'liiiu'iit   Intiii  I  lie  "  \H\\[wU)i"  in  Cliiiia,  at  Sun  Kiaii- 


I.IKITTKNANT  <H\ULKS   W.  (IIIPP.  I'.S.  N. 
An'^'^liifoil  Ai'tiiio:  Aliilshinnirtii,  .Inly '.l;i.  tS(t:i  ;  )tri)iluti((>i1  from  Uip  Naviil  Aondomy,  .linio  2, 


18PS  ;  iM-oinotoiUo  bo  KiiHijju.  AimU'.i,  l.MlH  ;  Miistor,  .lul>  I'J,  IsTO  ;  l.iouti'imiit,  He. 


1S7 


Cisco  in  tlio  sprini:^  of  187'.^  M;isl»'r  Daiioiiliowcr,  as  has  been  saitl,  liiid 
c«uuo  round  tlio  Horn  in  (his  shiji :  passed  assistant  iMifj^iiuMM'  Melville 
had  been  DeLiuiix's  eonirade  on  the  U.  S.  S.  "  Laneaster"  in  tlie  South 
Atlantio.  and  was  the  engineer  of  (he  U. S.  S.  "Tigress"  sent  out  for 
the  relief  of  (\i]i(ain  Hall:  passed  assis(ant  surgeon.  .1.  M.  Ainhler,  of 
Virginia,  whose  inedi(Ml  r(M^>rd  in  (lu>  siM'viee  was  very  higli,  filled  the 
importaiK  ]H)st  of  surgeon.  The  iee-pilot,  Dunhar,  of  Now  liondnii. 
Conn..  ha<i  been  master  of  whale  ships  in  and  nortli  of  Bering  St  mil. 
The  erew  liad  been  selected  with  great  care,  partly  from  the  east  niid 
]->artlv  from  the  Pacitic  coast.     William  Ts'iiKUMuann  had  distinguislitil 


*       <i 


mill  liciivt'iH. 


Do.'.  L'.  1K7'J. 


KAVOItAHMC    IIKI'OI!'!'   r»K   TIIK    H'K 


87j 


l.imsclf  (HI  lln'  vovii^'c  (tf  (lie  "rnliiiiH"  liy  liiw  Ciiillirnl  cxccntioii  of  tlic 
Miliiiilccrcd  Itiil  (lim^rrMiiH  diilv  •»!'  |iliiiiliii^  llic  ire  mirliorH  nii  I'rovi- 
i|.  IMC  lMM•^^  Hiiviii}^  I  lie  vcHHt'l  (lining  llm  Kliiiniy  inj^dit  ol'  November  i!l, 
ISTI.     (  UlieeiH  mill  (irew  were  voliiiileeiH. 

Sleiimiii^;  fiiit  of  I  lie  liiirbor  oj'  Siin  l*'raiieiHe.o,  I  lie  '' .leiinnelle  "  wiiH 
I'sniited  liy  tlie  ( •ovei'iior  ol'  ( 'iilirorniii,  hy  ii  tiiitnlier  of  yiielilH  of  tlie 
Sill    {''riineiHeo    Yiielil.  ('Iiil>,  iiiid   l»y  Hleinn    IfiimelieH  loiided   down  with 


•h'iUj 


rili/eiiH.  I'iVeiy  Hht|)  which  wiis  |iiihh(;iI  (Ii|i|i(mI  her  eohtl'H,  iitid  o|i|io 
I'uil  I'oiiil  ilH  gnrriHoii  Ktiliiled  (lie  ".Iciiiiiielle  "  willi  twoii(y-oii(!  ^mmh. 
,\l  ."».;•'>  of  (lie  Mill,  I'oiiit.  HiiyeH  li^lil.  wiiH  IohI.  Kiglit  of.  Al.  eleven  it. 
\v;is  JofrfTv,  iiiiHty,  mid  riiiiiy,  with  ii,  <'lio|i|»y  Hen.  tJiiil;  hroko  ahomd  over 
nlhcr  liiil.  TIk!  Khi|»  wiiH  IoikUmI  \v,vy  det'p,  eloviui  Ict't  nine  iiieheH 
I'nrwiird. 

Aii^fimt  ^»  she  liiid  reiiehed  OuiiiiliiHka  IhIiumI,  Imviiig  ^nd|MMl  her  Wiiy 
into  the  hiirlior  through  iliiek  I'o^h  mid  terrihie  tides,  iiiniiiii;^f  hetvvcen 
niic  liiiiidre(|  or  more  islmids,  very  iiiuorrcic.tly  laid  down  on  the  eliarts; 
suiiic  ol'  (hem  not,  ai  all.  DeliOiig  wroto  that  ^^etlin^r  ohservutioiis  was 
dill  (if  (he  (|iiestioii,  for  when  he  «!oiild  Hvv,  the  sea,  he  could  not  see  the 
lii.ri/oii,  and  thai  his  experience  j^otting  through  tlu;  passes  int() 
r.criiig  Hvn  was  far  heyoiid  all  previous  crooked  naviffation  he  had 
\vitiicsH(«l.     'I'o  the  Secretary  of  (h(!  Navy  lio  wrot(!  that  from  all   the 

I  from  tli«!  northward,  the  |»revioiis  winter  had  lieen 

'xceptiomdly  mild  one.     The  revenue  (filter  "  llnsh  "  had  just  come 

h  from  her  cruise  to  the  northward,  twenty  miles  north  and  east  of 


iiitclligcnco  i'e(!(Mve( 


nil  < 


SI  III 


\('V, 


'11 


IIS  sceine< 


ciisl   Cape  Silieria.,  without  having  encoiintdred  any  i 
t(i  he  news  of  a  most  encouraging  naiiire. 

|)cliongd(^plor(!d  tIi(MH'(!essity  of  having  loadc^d  his  ship  so  deeply  at 
S;ui  Kranclsco,  since  this  had  made;  tlic!  progress  bo  slow  under  head 
winds  and  swMI,  that  it  was  doiihtfiil  whetlKir  he  could  |.rolit  by  this 
(.|icii  water  in  (.lio  Anitic  soa  in  the  effort  to  gain  a  high  latitude  that 
season.  He  wouhl  jiroc'eed  to  St.  Micshael's,  and  If  notliing  there  could 
lie  heard  of  NordtMiskilMd,  from  tlienc(^  to  St.  Tiawrence  1%. 

At  St.   Miduud'H  the  shii)  filbid  in   furtlicr  stores,  j.urcbased   forty 


(logs, and  engaged  two  Indians,  Aneguin  an 


(uivcrs. 


lO  news 


bad  I 


leeii  n 


(I  Alexai,  as  biinters  and  dog 
I' 


iceived,  nor  had  the  schooner  ''  Kanny  J 


m 


\i     ■■  i  y 


n 

1  '\ 

1  ^''' 

mm 

4 

87t} 


AMIOIJK'AN    KXIM,«»|{ATH)NS    IN    TMK    K'K    /ONICS. 


Ilv(l«<"  iinivcti  iVoiii  SiiM  I''raiici,sc(i  with  ctuil  uikI  cxlra  sIdn'H;  lt\  ilij^ 
(lio  ooinmaiMlcr  was  scrionslv  «Mnl)arri'.sstMl.  lie  niii.st  wail  lor  (,m|. 
and  miisl  .still  drlay  l»v  crussiiii;-  In  Si.  LawnMu-c  May  ;  incaiiwliilc  H,,, 
rm»«  scasDii  was  "slippini,'  away,  wIumi  Ii(>  iiii^Hil  n'acli  Krllrll  Linul  jii,| 
push  on  to  ||ii<  iiDrtliwanl."  Tin'  kcIiooikt  "  F.  A.  Ilydc"  ciinii'  n, 
«Mi  tlH>  iSili  iind  lolIow«<(l  (li(«  '*.I(>an«M'lt(r'  lo  llic  Ui\y  wliidi  n;,s 
ivai'luMl  on  du'   -'»tli.     Mngiiu'cr  Mclvillo,  iVoni  tlial    |m»i1,  wrol(< :  "  li 


'  It 


hi'   ' ? ■■  ■■■ 

lliJ'  it  ^ 


LIKITKNANT  JOHN    W.  DANKNIUnVKH,  r.S   N. 

Kiitoroti  tlio  soivloo,  Si>pt.  ..'5,  1866;  iiromototi  to  1h>  i:usigii.  ,lnly  l;t,  IS71,  In  In-  M.ist(>r,  Scpi.  j;. 
is::!;  l.iouli'iiiuit,  Auj;.  'J,  IST'.i. 

was  vory  I'ortunalo  for  (lio  shij)  thai  sho  liad  (ho  schooiun-  to  can-y  mir 
extra  coal  and  sturos  ovor  hoiv.  for  on  the  way  wc  were  caiii^ht  in  n 
lorribK'  pdo  of  wind,  and.  owino-  to  (ho  oondiliou  of  (ho  ship,  and  deeply 
laden  as  wo  wore,  the  sea  had  a  oUmu  swoop  over  us.  It  s(ovo  in  our 
forward  }>arts.  earried  away  the  hridivo.  eaved  the  bulkheads,  and  in  liut 
just  drowned  us  out.  Had  we  (ho  odier  s(ulV  on  board,  wo  must  have 
fiuniderod.  or  else  i^ot  i(  overboard  in  time.  We  leave  hero  for  I'.asi 
Capo  to-<lay,  having  (aken  on  board  all  our  s(oros,  and  wo  are  in  even 
mueh  worse  sea  eondition  than  we  wore  before:  but  wo  thiid<  that 
maybe,  when  wo  got  into  the  ioo  where  the  wind  eiin't  raise  a  sea,  we 


[ori's ;  l»v  iliis 
vail  lor  (.mI. 
jriiuwliilr  ihr 
li<tt  Laiiil  ami 
rdc  "  caiiic  III 
ly  wliicli  was 
it,  wrolo  :  "  ll 


tic  M;»stor,  Si>pt.  'JT, 

to  oarrv  mir 
0  I'aiiglil  ill  a 
lip,  ami  (looi'ly 
t  stovo  in  our 
(Is,  aiul  ill  liui 
wo  lunst  li;iv(> 

hero  Tor  Kii^i 
,'C  are  in  oven 

0   think   that 

aise  a  sea.  \ve 


NKWS   OK    N(Mtl>KNSKir>|J>. 

will  IxMill  rif^lit."      riu!  (■oiinnan<li>i- \vr(it(<  (Imt,  uH  lio 

lainl   into   IW'iin^  sea,  lie  I'imukI   the  watiT  so  shallow  that  a  v 


877 

pit   out   vU'HV  of 


cry  u*r\y 


a  w 


(•(1 


as  raisrd  in  a  short    time,  an<l   that    li(>   ha<l  cxitcrirnccd  u  pile  df 
tjiiiiy  honis  duiiii^'  wliitih  hr  had  to  lay  the  ship  to  and  ride  It  out. 

{'.(•Ion'  leaving  the  Hay  a  native  rhicf  told  »d'  his  havinj,'  hccn,  tin 
iiiniillis  iMd'orc,  (Ml  hoard  a  slcanicr  sniallcr  than  the  "  .h  annctic,"  and 
ruiiiid  on  her  two  olViccrs  who  spoke  JMit^lisli,  and  a  third  who  spoke  the 
T(  liiiktchi  lanLjnaj^(>  like  a  native.  The  name  of  this  ollieei,  as  I'ar  as 
cniilil  he  heard  IVoin  this  native  ehiel',  was  Iliir/tis/i,  the  true  name  heiiitr 
IIS  hei-oiii;  ,i"^*".V  h<'li<'ve(|,  that  c'  Ijeiileiiant  Nord(|uist,  sp(d<en  of  in 
Nnrdenskiiild's  voyai^e  of  the  "  \'epi,"  as  liavinj^  leariuid  to  speak  the 
Tclinklehi  tonj^ue.  DeKon^  came  to  the  (ioiie.lnsion  that  it  was  Noi- 
(jciiskiiild's  steamer  which  had  been  seen,  hitt'  as  nothing  had  liccii  made 
sine,  and  his  last  anthcnti(^  advices  iVoni  the  Secretary  had  been  that 
llic  ri-ofessor,  when  last  la^ai'd  from,  was  at  Cape  Scr(j/,(?  Kainen,  he 
tli(>iiL;lil  it  his  duty  to  j^o  thei'c,  althon<f|i  tin*  distance  was  on(*  hundred 
Miiil  thirty  miles;  on  the  -7th,  therelore,  he  t(»wed  the  tiansport 
scliiioiier  out'  of  the  liarhor,  and  stood  on  a.  north  north-(;ast  course 
tnw.inl   Ilcrinj^  Strait. 

On  the  'J'.Mh  he  attempted  to  land  at  the  Cape,  lat.  Cm"  lli'  N.,  hut 
I'liiiiKJ  so  much  ice  moving  ahout  as  to  make  this  impossihie.  On  the 
:illtli,  l.icut(Miajit  ( 'hi|)p,  aecouipaiiie(l  hy  I  )uiihar,  ( 'ollins,  and  tlu^  native 
Alcxai.  lauded   and    learned  through   Alcxai   from  an  okl  S(piaw,  that 

tered  on   tluM'ast  of  Koliutchin  iJav;  and  on  the 


sleatner 


liad 


win 


olst  the  same  party,  together  with  Master  Danenhower,  at  last  ma(h) 
sure  hy  a  landini:;  on  tiu^  hay  that  the  "Vega"  had  certainly  winter(!(l 
llicrc  and  gone  south.  Swedish,  Danish,  and  llussian  buttons  round  in 
tilt'  hut  on   shore,  and    traded    lor   by  Chip|)    for  his  vest  buttons  as 


ens 


li,  were:  proofs  (Uiough  of  the  "  Vega's"  visit,  as  no  otlaM-  ;-.liip  had 
Ik'om  in  that,  part  oi  the  world  with  Swedish,  Danish,  -.nd  Hussian 
(itliccrs  on  board.  I^ipors  wen>  also  found  written  in  Swedish  and 
liiiving  on  thoni  the  word  Stoekliobu. 

At  2  r.M.  Deliong  lield  divine  service,  all  hearts  being  thankful  that 
at  last  they  knew  that  Nonhuiskiiild  was  safe,  and  the  "Jeannette" 
niiiTJit  proceed  on  her   journey  to  Wrangell  Laud.     In  his  journal  he 


if 


it 


I*  r 


87H 


AMIi'.ItH'AN    MXIMiMHATtONM    IN    Tllli;    inn    '/,ns\W. 


\Mi)|p,   '' ir  NiirdfMiHkiiilil    IiimI    Irlt    niiy  Kiixl   nl   n  wiittrii    |tii|M'i    tii   Si 
I.iiwnMM'o    lliiy  Ml'  III   rii|M'  S«>nl/,«'    Kiinu'ii.  lie  n^nld    lmvt>  Hii\ti|   hmhIi 
niin-itiiinl y,  "  IhiI    lie  ii|Mt|n}.ri/(«w   I'm'  ||ii>  |ii<'|<  nl'  imy  icruiil.      |  he  'li  l,i\ 
oi' llli>  "  .l<>illlM(>lli>  "  hitiimmI,  liuwrvt'l,  liltitl    (o   Im'I'    |MII|'>Ht>   nl    mmiIiim" 
Wrmi^cjl   l<iini|  I'nr  ii  wiiilcr  Hccmily. 


IN     11  IK 


ATK. 


S, ' 


'1  m- 


Oil  IIh>  >ji\lli  ritljuwiii^  liny,  lli<>  Mliiji  wim  JM'^iiiniii^   In  Ih<  l'|M^;rl|  .,11 


Hill 


lll'l 


l»y    llic    rciimrMcJi'Ms    |iiii'l<.      'I'lml.   iliiy    liiw  Juiiiiml    ciilry    wiis:    "I 
liopiii^r  Miiil   |iijiyiii^  III  i^i'l    llH>Hlii|t  iiilo    lli<iiil<l   ImIiiihI  In  tiniKi'  um 
«|iiurl(>iH.      Ah  I'nr  mm  IIic  cy*  <'nii  nm^c  in  ice,  iiimI   iml   mily  iIui'm  iI  jnnL 
im  if  il    iMn<>r   IiikI   lirnkiMi    ii|),   Iml   il    iiImh  junks  iih  ii'  il,  iirvcr   uiiii|,| 


VphI 


cnliiv 


I  I 


llljlC 


lliiil 


In  iliiy  wniild   iniiKo  nil  n|ii>iiiti;^r  |nr  us  inln  ih, 


Innij  ;    In  ijny    I    lin|ii>    llml    In-ninnnw    will    <ln    il.       I    Hll|i|inHi'.    II    I'liir    ,,| 
wind  would  lircnK  up  llii>  puck.  Iml  llir  jiiick  iiiij^lil    lunik  iih  up.      Tin,; 
nmrniiig' HJinWH  Hniiii'  pnnJH  nl' lliin  ice  mid  wnlcr,  Iml  iis  I  licy  nic  dianii 
iici'lrd  iiiid  we  cniiiinl   jiiinp  llic  sliip  nvcr  n|inl  iinl  imiM  ;   llii'v  iin-  nl'  no 
use  yrl  In  iiH."     On  |ji(>  H||i,Hlill    iiiidnniil(<d,  ji(«  n^rnin  wrnl..,  '^1   )f>ii 
Hidcr  il  ill!  (>\f('plinnnl  hIjiIc  nl'IlK'  wv  llml  we  nn«  iinviii^  jnsl  imw.inMl 


cm 


ml  iipnn  llic  Sc|)lciiil)cr  jrnlcH  In  Iircnk  up  llic  piici  ,  niid  pi>iliii|.'< 
npcn  lends  In  llcrnid  Islnnd,  I  wniil  llic  sliip  In  lie  in  cnndilimi  In  muv.' 
willuml  dclny.  Mcsidcs,  I  nni  Inid  Mini  in  llic  Inllcr  purl,  nl'  ScplriiilM  r 
and  cnrly  jmrl.  nl'  OoIoIum-  llicrc  is  (<xpcriciiccd  in  llics(>  Inliliidcs  ipiili> 
an  Indian  snimncr,  and  I  slinll  nnl  lic^in  In  cxpiM-l.  winlcrin^  in  llif 
pack  unlil  lliis  Indian  snir.incr  is  ^rivcn  u  cliancc  In  lilnTnlc  ns."  Tin' 
libcralinn,  ns  is  Inn  well  kimwii,  was  nnl,  In  conic.  Vel,  Del.niiLr  al  (Ins 
very  pnini  did,  il  wniild  se«<in,  lli(>  licst  Hint  eniild  l.c  errceied.  In  Ihr 
judirnuMil  (Tf  |li(>  Nnval  Conrl  of  Iinpiiiy,  "  lOillier  lie  liad  In  lelmn  Id 
some  poll  In  lli(>  soulliwanl,  and  pass  llu'  winlcr  lhen>  in  idleness,  llnis 
sacrilieinjx  all  ehanei-s  of  pushing'  liis  lesearelics  lo  Hie  noilliward  iiiilil 
Die  Tollowinu:  sunniKM-,  or  else  lie  niiisl.  (Mideavor  lo  force  Die  vessel 
throni^li  lo  Wrnni^ell  Island,  llieii  erroneoiisly  Kn|i|iosc<l  lo  he  n  I; 
oonlinenl,  io  winler  tliere,  and  prosccnle  liis  ex|)lnralionH  l»y  sled 
The  clianoes  of  aeeoinplisliing  lliis  killer  iillcniative  were  Hunieieiillv 


11' 'I' 


L!'i'S. 


CH. 


Till'.    Nil*. 


ft7J» 


I      |lll|lf'l      !ll      SI. 
'(>    Hll\<'t|     IiiimIi 

nl.     'I'Im' 'Miiv 
HC   III'    I  nil  liiu" 


[fnnil  III  Hie  time  In  jiiHliCv  liiiri  in  I'li'Kmiii^  il  ;  iili'l,  il|il<-«>i|  IiikI  Im-  dfiiM' 
i,iIm  I  wirtf,  lif  iiii^lil  rniily  Inivc  iM'cri  lliniiirlil  \v;iiiliiijr  in  t||i<  lii^ji 
Miiihlit'H  iM'CPMHiirv  I"!"  III!  ex  |i|iii(i ."  Ill-  IiimI  l<>ii[r  licrmc  rxiiKKMrd  ||im 
,,|,iiiinii  lliiil   |iiilliti^  n  Kliiji  inio  tlic  |i;ii  l<   \V)k  IId'  l;mt  tliin^^  lo  do. 

(In  till'  (liiv  liDin  wliirli  III!'  jiiiMniil  ciih y  idiMV<>  Idik  lirfii  filed,  lit 
I  f  \i.  Ilic  I'ljr  lillfMJ  iiiid  llif'ic  wim  KiM'ii  II  (  liiiiKP  In  iiiiilvf  II.  lilllf  liciid- 
wiv  towiiid   llrii.ld   Isliiiid  :   llin  ^' .Iniiiiiil  Ic  "  wmkcd  liurd  lo  loict-  lirr 


<)  lie  rlimi'd  nil 
V  WHS :  "  I  ;iiM 
In  niilKi'  U  llllrl 
lly  {\i>V^  ll  Innlv 
I,    ll(>V<M      Uiilllil. 

I'm   IIS  iiilii  llir 

ilMlHC.    II     (',idr    III 

ik  iiH  ii|i.    riiui 

I licy  inr  diunn 

I  ||(>V    Mil'   nl     lin 
\Vln|t<,  "  I    rill! 

IT   jllsl    linW,  !lll"l 

I  ,  iitid  |M'rli;i|i* 
idilimi  In  iiiiivi' 
•|,  nl'  Sr|ilrliilirr 

liililiidr^^  'inili' 
inlcriii^  in  tin' 
'Ciilc  ns."     'I'Im' 

|)('linni^  ill  llii^ 
IITn-li'd.      Ill  IIm' 

ji<|  In  ri'l  iini  III 

II  idlciii'ss,  llius 
inrlliwiird  until 

ircc  llic  vessel 
1  in  III'  il  liirirt' 
IMS  l)y  sit'll.uvs. 
vn>  KilHieieiitlv 


OKOUUK   W.  MICLVIM.K.  »  flMK   r-NniNKKII,  <•  H.N. 

/Vpii'ilMlml  AsslHlniil  KriKlii<'i<r,.liiIy  W,  IK'H  ;  I'm««"'i1  AkhIkIiimI.  Km/iiiPT,  IW'c.  IT,,  Iw,',' ;  riii..f 
lOiiIti r.  .hill.  .'10,  IMi;.'-,. 

wiiy  wliornvor  a  criiclc  nr  ii)irrnvvn|iriiin|^  KJinwcd  ilscll'  iKdwffii  I  lie  two 
Ijiii's,  f'vcn  wlinrn  iln'  ic(!  u\'  IIk-  llnc.4  wiih  I'mni  li-n  In  (irtccii  Icct.  Ilijc.k. 
r.v  jiidicicniH  iiiinmiiijr  nrid  l»ii.c.l<iii^  iind  iiiintniii^'  ii^'iiin,  llin  sliip'.H  In-iid, 
liy  I  lie  li('l|i  of  lli(!  Hldiuri-wjtudi,  wiih  HJinvnd  iril.n  vvcjik  |iI;h''h  wliern  t  ll(^ 
licliii  coiild  ti(d.  Im«  IniiMid,  liiil.  williiii  llucc  Ikmiis,  nlin  wiis  hnni^dil, 
liiiiilly  np  iLgiiili  in  H(did  (Iocs;  lliif.k  I'n^f  Hi-lthid  dnwri  luid  lli<!  'u'v- 
iiiielioiH  wcri-  pianlcd.  TliiH  diiy,  simw-f^n^KJcH  wcrn  served  on!  I,n  nil 
liiiiidH  with  (>nl(!iH  l(»  W(sir  tlieni.  The  |tosilinii  nf  the  "  .leiiiinetle  "  Wfi» 
.•stiihliHhed  hy  (ilmdrvatinii  In  l.<.  71"  -i'/  N.,  175"  5'  4K"  W.  She  already 
iictiled  five  dogr(!(!S  to  Htarhnard. 


:W0 


AMKIIICAN    KXIMiOUATlONS    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZONES. 


!,i 


•M:-)  ' 


MU.I  t 


i  , 


1' 


h  ' 


ScptcmluM"  l:{,  iil  H  a.m.  Mt'Mtfiiiiiit  Cliipp  ami  Kn^iui'tT  Mel \  ill,., 
I(!(>-I'ilt)t  DiiiiIkh',  and  the  nativ(>  Alcxai  Htailcd  out  nii  tlii*  tloc  wjiji  ;, 
.sUmI  and  4>iglit  dogs,  to  att('iii))t  a  Iwiidiiig  Mi  Herald  Island,  tuu.ml 
sonio  harhoi'  within  wliicli  Ochong's  lingi-iing  hopes  still  lo(d\id  :  In 
uUo  thought  it  |)ossil)le  that  dril't-wood  might  he  found  on  the  Ishnid 
to  ]iel|>  out  tho  winter's  I'uel.  Hut  the  |)arty  returned  without  having 
met  with  any  success  lor  cither  of  these  olijects;  no  place  eoiild  \)r 
seen  oll'ering  any  protection  for  a  ship,  \nn'  any  ilriflwood.  Ali  \;ii 
shot  a  seal  and  hnuight  it  hack  in  tlie  boat,  and  ou  the  simmuhI  dav 
following,  I)»'Iiong  with  Melville,  (Mii|)p,  iind  Dunliar,  shot  tw(t  Immis. 
after  Ihei'"  escape  oi'  some  miles  from  the  tra])S.  The  hill  of  faic  was  as 
yet  sulllciiMitly  <'omfoital)le. 

lint  at  tlu'  close  of  the  month  the  ".leannette's  "  position  was  far 
from  being  sutdi,  as  sho  was  still  held  between  the  llot^s  as  in  a  vise, 
oontinuously  Ium.'KmI  over  five  degrees,  and  drifting  with  the  pack.  In 
till'  four  days  from  thi'  21st  to  the  24th  the  drift  was  twenty  miles  in 
the  north,  one  degree  west,  llerahl  Island  had  entirely  disappeared; 
but  by  a  change  in  the  drift  to  the  southwest,  by  October  Ji  the  island 
n>ap])eared  in  ])laiu  sight,  bearing  south-.soutlieast  triU!.  On  the  Ihli 
land  was  again  seen  in  the  same  quarter  and  now  very  distinctly;  and 
on  the  21st  another  distinct  view  was  had,  the  land  a|)j)earing  as  one 
large  island  with  three  ])eaks.  Seen  again  on  the  2Htli,  the  ".Icaii- 
nette"  being  in  71°  57'  N.,  177°  M'  VV.,  DeLong  l)elieved  it  to  be  tiir 
north  side  of  Wrangell  I.aiid,  but  lie  no  longer  thought  it  a  contiiieiii. 
it  was  "either  one  large  island  or  an  archipelago.'" 

The  night  of  the  28th  was  beautiful,  "  the  heavens  were  cloudless, 
the  moon  very  nearly  full  and  shining  brightly,  and  every  star  twink- 
ling; the  air  perfectly  calm,  and  not  a  souiul  to  break  the  sjx'U.  Tiic 
ship  and  lier  surroundings  made  a  perfect  nieture.  Standing  out  in 
bold  relief  against  the  blue  sky,  every  rope  aiul  spar  with  a  thick  coal 
of  snow  and  frost,  —  she  was  siini)!}- a  beautiful  spectacle.  The  lout;' 
lines  of  wire  reaching  to  the  tripod  and  (d)servatory,  round  frosteil 
lumps  here  and  there  where  a  dog  hay  asleep;  sleds  standing  on  end 
against  the  steam-cutter  to  make  a  foreground  for  the  sliij) ;  surroundi'd 
with  a  bank  (rail  high)  of  snow  and  ice ;  and  in  every  direction  as  f:ir 


TIIK  srill'    AlUtll'T, 


:)Ht 


WW   Melville, 
ho  t\uv  with  a 
Hliiiid,   tuu.ird 
ill    lookcil  :  Ik 
oil  tiic    islainl 
itiinllt    liiiviii;^' 
(lllCl'    (ittllld    lir 
,'()n(i.       Alrxai 
U'  siMMHid  day 
li(»l   t\V(t  licais. 
i  1(1'  I'uic  was  as 

Dsitioii  was  tar 
'S  as  ill  a  vise. 
1  till'  ]»ai'k.  Ill 
wiMity  niilt's  tu 
y  disainnMrt'il; 
)(•!•  H  the  island 
On  tlic  11th 
listiiii'tly ;  .nid 
ij)('iiriii^  as  oiir 

h,   the   ""Jcaii- 
|mI  it  to  1)0  till' 

it  a  coiitiiuMil, 


as  llic  ryr  (•oiilil   rt'iuli,  ii  ooiiliiscd,  irn-j^'iiliir  ice-Held,  —  would  luivo 
made  a  picture  S(d<loui  Heeu/' 

Oil  tint  tollowiii^  day  a  curious  Imt  not  unusual  point  in  Arctii; 
history  ocuurred  anion^  the  do^s  »d'  which  the  Kxpetlition  hud  a  piod 
supply-  ^^'•o  <d'  a  team  whi(di  was  out  to  hunt  some  walruses  killed 
the  day  previous,  deserted,  hy  an  t'ScMipc;  from  his  harness.  TIh'  other 
l|ll<^^s  attempted  to  chase  him,  and  the  native  Alexai  quickly  said  : 
"Mom  byo  other  do|^'s  him  plenty  whip."  'I'ruly  emui^h,  lor  alter  the 
III  urn  of  tin;  tttani,  Hiii^o  Immii^  round  at  a  saht  distance,  had  heen 
(hewed  up  so  hadly  hy  tlio  others  that  he  <lied  in  a  few  minutes.  'I'lm 
Ar(Mi(!  do^  will  not  bear  hiziuuss  (Ui  tho  part  of  a  lt'llow-<log  in  har- 

IICSH. 

November  (I,  tlu!  first  sturtlinj^  eraek  o(teurr(!<l  in  tin;  lloe,  (!omp(dlinj( 
the  removal  from  it  of  the  meteorological  instriinients  to  the  ship;  but 
she  did  not  move  an  inch,  and,  on  tho  7th,  the  opening  again  closed. 
The  lltli  was  a  day  of  gn^at  anxiety;  at  <i  A.M.  the  ie(!  was  again  in 
motion,  and  the  ship  groaned  and  ereak(!d  at  every  pressuns  threaten- 
ing at  each  t(»  break  adrift.  "Masses  from  fifteen  to  twenty-five  feet 
in  height  when  iip-ondod,  slid  along  at  various  angles  of  (devation  and 
jiiiii,  and  betw(!eii  and  among  them  were  large  masses  of  (f^ftrix  like  a 
iimrl)l(!-yard  adrift."  A  break  was  made;  in  tlus  floe  across  the  ship's 
Ihiw,  and  a  projecting  floe  Ixirg  ])louglic(l  its  way  like;  a  wedgo  to  break 
tlui  lloe  ahead."  At  4  r.M.  th<!  movement  was  renewed.  Every  movable 
thing  was  again  bnuight  on  board,  the  dogs  being  confiiuKl  by  a  fence. 

liiko  trying  ex[)erienees  were  repeated  again  and  again,  until  on  tin; 
the  24th  by  the  action  of  the  southwest  wind  tho  'sreannette "  was 
one(^  more  for  a  little  season  afloat.  Lieutenant  DaiKMihowcM-  says, 
that,  on  the  24th  of  November  the  half  eradh;  on  which  the  port  side 
had  rested  could  bo  seen  about  a  thousand  yards  distant,  and  this 
inuiiense  lead  was  open,  but  of  very  limited  length.  The  a])pearanc(!  of 
tile  i(H!  could  bo  likened  to  an  immense  cake  as  it  comes  from  the  oven, 
broken  and  cracked  on  the  surface.  "A  few  mornings  later  tin;  drift 
ice  came  down  (ui  us  uiuler  the  starboard  bow,  and  wedged  the;  sliij)  off 
her  cradle,  and  she  went  adrift  in  the  gale.  This  was  about  8  a.m. 
She  drifted  all  day  until  7  I'.M.,  when  she  brought  up  in  some  young 


:i 


I 


n 

'1 :  ' 

J    r' 


il^nli:  tf 


882 


AMERICAN   EXPLOllATIONS   IN   THE    ICE   ZONES. 


ice,  Jiiicl  was  frozen  in  solid  ajj^ain.  It  was  dark,  in  the  long  nif^ht,  and 
there  was  no  chanee  ol"  workini;  the  pacik  had  it  been  good  jndgiiicut  to 
do  so.  We  reckoned  that  she  had  drifted  at  least  forty  miles  with  the 
ice  in  her  innnediate  vicinity.  J'revious  to  this  time  the  ship  had  shidd 
the  i)ressure  in  the  most  remarkable  manner.  On  one  occasion,  I 
stood  (Ml  the  deck-house  above  a  shari)  tongue  of  ice  that  pressed  Ihc 
port  side  just  abaft  the  forechains,  and  in  the  wake  of  the  inniiciisc 


\m.  J.  M.  A.-MlU.i;i{,  IT.  S.N. 


Entered  the  service  as  Assistant  Surnoon,  April  1,  1874;  Passed-Assistant  Surgeon, 

June,  15,  l(»i7. 


it: 


$     I 


'i:    J 


ir 


y .     i 

t 


truss  that  had  been  strengthened  at  IVFare  Island,  by  the  urgent  advice 
of  Commodore  William  II.  Shock.  The  fate  of  the  "Jeannette'"  wiis 
then  delicately  balanced,  and  when  I  saw  the  immense  tongue  bioak 
and  iiarmlessly  underruii  the  ship  I  gave  heartfelt  thanks  to  Shock's 
good  judgment.  She  would  groan  from  stem  to  stern  ;  the  eabin-doms 
were  often  jammed  so  that  we  could  not  get  out  in  case  of  an  cnu'i- 
gency,  and  the  heavy  truss  was  imbedded  three  quarters  of  an  inch  into 
the  ceiling.  The  safety  of  the  ship  at  that  time  was  due  entii'cly  to  the 
truss.^'  Recording  the  exjun-ienees  which  have  been  just  named,  De 
Long  says ;  "  This  steady  strain  on  one's  mind  is  fearful.     Seemingly 


IS. 

)n<^  night,  and 
(I  jiulgiiHiit  to 
miles  witli  lln! 
shi[)  had  stood 
no  occasidii,  I 
lat  pressed  the 
f  the  iiuiueiiso 


THE   FOIIEFOCJT   BllEAKS. 


383 


iint  Surgeon, 

urgent  advice 
(eaunette '"  was 

tongue  break 

inks  to  Shoik's 

the  cabin-doiirs 

ise  of  an  eiiuM- 

of  an  inch  into 

entirely  to  the 

ust  named,  He 

111.     Seemingly 


we  are  not  secure  for  a  moment,  and  yet  wo  can  take  no  measures  for 


d< 


)th 


dui'  security.  A  crisis  may  occur  at  any  moment,  and  wo  can  do  Hom- 
ing hut  he  tiiaiikl'ul  in  the  luoriiiiig  that  it  has  not  come  (hiring  the 
i'ight,  and  at  night  that  it  has  not  come  since  morning.  Living  over  a 
powder-mill,  waiting  for  an  explosion,  wt)ul(l  be  a  similai-  mode  of  (ixist- 
ent;e.  .  .  .  Sleeping  with  all  my  clothes  on,  and  starling  up  anxiously 
ut  every  snap  or  crack  in  the  ice  outside,  or  the  ship's  frame  inside, 
most  effectually  prevents  my  getting  a  [)ro[)er  kind  or  amount  of  rest,  and 
yet  I  do  not  see  anything  else  in  store  for  me  for  some  time  to  come." 

Christmas  Day  was  the  dreariest  day  he  ever  experienced,  passed 
certainly  in  the  dreariest  part  of  the  world  ;  yet  it  was  something  to 
have  had  as  yet  no  serious  mishaj).  Tlie  crew  (lame  aft  to  wish  the 
ollicers  a  merry  day,  and  made  music  for  them  in  the  deck-house.  The 
.ship's  bells  at  midnight  of  the  8lst  called  all  hands  together  to  give 
thi'ce  cheers  on  the  (quarter-deck  for  the  New  Year,  and  for  tiie 
"  Jciinni'tte."     ' 

liieutcnant  Danenhower  was  now  unfortunately  placed  on  the  sick- 
list,  being  in  danger  of  losing  the  sight  of  his  left  eye.  Surg(Mui  Ambler 
found  it  necessary  that  he  should  remain  in  total  darkness  in  his  room. 
DeLong  was  very  much  distressed  at  th(!  news,  as  the  Lieutenant's 
ollorts  had  kept  off  the  moping  for  many  an  hour,  and  he  feared  the 
eir,'ct  of  such  confinement  on  the  mind.  'J'he  sick  man  did  not  improve 
(luring  the  month  of  .lanuary. 

Forced  anxieties  for  the  condition  of  the  shi])  were  intensifi(!(l 
on  the  loth,  IDtli,  and  2'ld.  On  the  Ifjth  the  tloe  was  found  to  have 
cracked  and  oj)ened  about  twenty  feet  from  tlu!  starboard  side,  tlu; 
Clack  rounding  the  bow  and  running  in  one  direction  in  the  prolonga- 
tion of  the  stem,  and  in  another  across  the  stern.  At  3  r.  m.  it  had 
widened  to  eight  feet  in  width,  another  lissure  ai)j)earing  on  the  port 
side  ;d)out  one  hundred  feet  distant.  On  the  I'Jtii  there  was  a  loud 
noise  as  of  the  cracking  of  the  ship's  frame,  and  at  7.45  A.M.  the  wind 
suddenly  shifted  from  north  to  northwest,  the  ice  began  to  move,  and 
the  shi[)  evidently  received  tremendous  pressure  amid  the  groaning  and 
grinding  floes.  The  ice  moving  to  the  eastward,  piled  up  large  masses 
of  the  floe  under  the  stem,  breaking  the  fore-foot. 


■   * 


f 


I    :    f 


'!l 


384 


AMUKICAN    ICXIM.OUATIONH    IN   TIIK    WK   Z«)NKM. 


II 


M 


l'UMIMN(J    UKOTN    .lANUAUY    10,   IHHO. 

To  add  to  \hr  anxiiitics  oT  tho  sliip'H  (jompaiiy  two  stroains  ol'  \v;i| 


(■!• 


lie 


an  inch  in  diainolcr  tlu'i:  began  to  How  through  tho  lilliiig  whi(  li  Imd 
bct'ii  |)ut  ill  l)(>h)W  the  berth  (huik,  smd  the  water  soon  stood  eiglilccn 
inches  «h'(>|)  in  the  fore-peak  and  Ihirty-six  inches  in  the  fore-hohl,  wliilo 
in  the  lire-room  it  was  over  the  Hoor-philes  on  the  starboard  si(U>.  Tli,. 
(h'cdv  piitnps  were  at  oiictM'iggcd  and  manned,  and  by  (h(^  iit(h)mil;il 
energy  of  MeivilU',  as  credited  to  him  in  DeFiOiig's  journal,  after  live 
hours'  severe  hibor,  the  steam  pump  was  set  to  work.  The  tiMnjJeriitmc 
of  the  tircvroom  was  — 'JO'',  outsich;  of  it,  it  had  run  (h»wn  to  — 41°, 
oiu;  of  the  mercurial  thernu»meters  freezing  solid.  Th(^  barometer  liad 
rang(Ml  from  JlMJ'J!"  to  .'U)".  An  attenqtt  to  out  out  the  ice  under  tli(« 
bow  by  <ligging  away  soii'.e  of  th(^  |)ie(!es  whieii  iiad  been  piUid  nj), 
s(>rvcd  only  to  bring  the  water  over  the  ieo  beneath,  which  by  frciczini; 
elTcctually  stoppi>d  work.  No  injury  could  be  detected  outside,  but  tlic 
C(U"rect  judgment  was  already  formed  that  tlu;  ship's  tore-foot  had  been 
broken  otV  ov  twisted,  starting  the  starboard  strakes.  On  the  'J'Jd.  ni 
midnight,  the  water  still  stood  nineteen  imdies  deep  at  the  tirc-ron 
bilge,  and  at   the    step    of   the    fore-mast.      'I'he  barometer  rose  fro 


111 


ni 


iM).{)iY  to   ;U).'2S^';    the    thermometer   was —28°  at    midnight,  —;?7°  iit 


noon. 


This  tlay,  at  the  urgent  advice  of  the  Surgeon,  an  operation  was  per- 
formed on  Lieutenant  Danenhowi'r's  l(>ft  eye,  and  borne  with  licniir 
endurance  by  the  patient.  To  this  (>x|>ression  DeLoiig,  while  referriiii;' 
to  the  possible  neco.  sity  of  another  operation,  adds  :  "•  My  anxieties  arc 
begiuning  to  crowd  on  me.  A  disabled  and  leaking  shi|),  a  sciioiisly 
sick  iitVicer,  and  an  uneasy  and  terrible  [lack,  with  the  constantly  diiiiin- 
ishing  coaI-|)ilc,  and  at  a  distanct>  of  two  hundred  miles  from  the  n(>;u('si 
Siberian  settlcn\cnt — -tlu'se  are  enough  to  think  of  for  a  lifc^-timc."  Ii 
w.is  some  relief  to  all  this  that  by  the  2Tth  it  was  found  that  the  Scwoll 
pump  was  making  two  thousand  two  hundred  and  tifty  gallons  |)cr  hour, 
holdintr  the  water  in  check.     The  leak  had  been  diminish(>(l   iVoiii  the 


28d  over  one-third.     Two  of  the  crew,  Nindemann  and  Swcetman, 


were 


w 


orking  all  day  from  9  A.M.  to  11  i'.  M.  in  stullling  plaster-of-pa-is  aiul 


I  ) 


s. 


UETUIIN    OF   JilGIIT. 


3H5 


[laiiiH  (if  walcr 
11^  wliicli  iiiiil 
it(t«)(l  eiglilccii 
>)n'-li()l(l,  wliilo 
ird  h'u\v..     '\'\\v 
10  ih(l()inil;il)li> 
iiill,  iil'tcr  livr 
»c  tomjHM'iUurc 
lowii   to  — \\'\ 
hiironu'lcr  liiid 
it!o  uikUt  tlic 
l)C(Mi  piled  ii|i, 
icih  by  iVocziiit; 
tu(si(K>,  l)ut  llu' 
•-foot  hail  l)('('ii 
On  tho  2-2(1,  ill 
the  lire-room 
|el(n"  rose  iVnm 
liijjht,  — liT'  ill 


;,sli('s  ill  th(^  s|)at'eH  between  franies  through  holes  eut  in  the  ceiling 
jilidvc  the  berth  (Uick  on  eaeh  side  ;  their  work  hooii  (liiiiini.siieil  the 
IciiK  loiir  hundred  and  iil'ty  gallons  per  hour. 

Tlic  night  of  the  Art^tie  regions  had  given  to  eaeh  one  of  the  sliip's 
coin  puny  (lie  usual  oleaehed  ajtpearanee,  but  with  the  exee[)tion  <d"  the 
sick  nlllicer,  the  eonipany  were  still  in  fair  health.  'J'heir  spirits  had 
liicii  liiisi'd  on  the  2(it]i  by  the  reaj>pearan(!e  of  tiio  sun.  All  hands 
liinitMl  <»ut  to  enjoy  tlit;  pleasing  novelty  of  seiung  genuine  sun-shadows 
fiirllic  lirst  lime  in  seventy-one  days,  and,  although  the  glare  at  first 
iiiiidc  the  eye  blink  like  an  owl,  Deliong  could  not  get  enough  of  the 
|i|('iis;iiit  sight.  The  light  was  specially  cheering,  for  when  the  sun  was 
nil  ilic  meridian  to  Ww  southward,  the  full  moon  was  on  the  meridian 
;it  lilt'  northern  horizon  so  that  lor  twenty-four  hours  there  was  sun- 
Ijolil  or  full-moonlight  all  the  time. 

'j'he  month  of  February  still  found  at  work  the  steam-pumi»  which 
was  to  be  in  very  successful  use  till  May.  It  made  forty  strokes  a 
iiiiiiutc,  pumping  out  two  thousand  two  hundred  and  lifty  gallons  an 
lidur. 

( )ii  the  1st  and  2d  of  the  month  two  large  bears  were  killed,  the  stom- 
ach (d"  the  larger  one  containing  nothing  but  several  small  stones  njsem- 
hliiig  pieces  of  slate.  Impelled  by  hunger,  he  had  tried  to  get  on  board 
ship,  attracted  by  the  meat  of  the  lirst  bear  hung  uj>  to  a  girt-line. 

On  the  (5th  of  the  month,  in  measuring  the  thickness  of  the  lloe,  it 
was  found  that  another  lloe  had  shoved  in  under  it,  which  gave  DeLong 
reason  to  thiidc  that  this  hiid  been  the  ease  all  around  the  shii),  and  that 
the  control  of  the  leak  had  been  due  to  the  underlying  Hoes  t)f  ice  unit- 
inn-  hy  freezing  and  lowering  the  water-head  in  the  vicinity  of  the  leak. 
Til  this  record  DeLong's  journal  added  the  sadly  pro})hetic  words,  "If 
this  1)1'  the  case,  we  shall  have  our  hands  full  at  the  breaking  up." 

I')y  the  ir)th  the  pumping  had  been  so  perfected  as  to  hold  the  water 
ill  clicck  without  resorting  to  pumps  to  be  worked  by  the  main  boiler, 
and  this  had  very  encouriigingly  reduced  the  consumption  of  coal  to 
lour  hundred  ])ound8  per  day  only,  in  })lace  of  the  one  thousand  or  one 
tiioiiHiind  two  hundred  which  would  have  been  consumed  by  the  main 
huilcr  furnaces.    But  the  troubles  seemed  to  thicken.    The  water  forced 


i 


386 


AMEUICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE    ICE  ZONES. 


|3J  ll'l 


hi.ih 


i  ■ 


'f«!. 


its  way  throiigli  the  filling  botweeu  the  iViiines  to  the  i)erth-(leck,  iiml,-. 
ing  it  wet,  sloppy,  uiid  uiiheiiltht'ul.  Sweetiiuiii  purtiiilly  succeedi  4  j.i 
stop[)iiig  tills  by  putting  in  more  lilling,  building  ii  little  bulklK-id 
under  the  berths,  and  boring  a  hole  into  the  deek  to  let  the  wati  r  ulV 
into  the  fore-peak.  On  the  IDth  DeLong  wrote:  "  All  our  hopcd-inp 
explorations,  and  perhaps  discoveries  this  coming  summer,  seem  siippinir 
away  from  us,  and  we  have  nothing  ahead  but  taking  a  leaking  slii|)  to 
the  United  States.  At  the  best  1  do  not  like  to  contemplate  any  lint  her 
accident,  although  in  our  position  almost  anything  might  hai>pcii  to 
us."  On  the  28d,  Washington's  birthday  was  celebrated  by  dnissino- 
the  shi])  with  American  ensigns  at  the  mastheads  and  llagstaff,  and  Mie 
Union  Jack  forward;  the  22d  had  been  Sunday.  Beyond  lliig-hoistiin'- 
there  was  no  holiday,  for  there  was  too  much  work  to  be  <h)ne. 

March  1,  Lieutenant  Danenhower  had  the  sixth  operation  on  his  eye 
performed,  with  the  Surgeon's  statement  that  others  would  prohahlv 
be  necessary  at  short  intervals;  he  still  kept  his  health  r.nd  spirits.  Tin,' 
ship  had  again  drifted  northwest,  her  position  b(!ing  determined  hy 
Chipp  on  the  ilth,  to  be  lat.  7:2°  12'  N.,  long.  175°  30'  W. ;  by  the  l;]tli 
the  drift  was  again  thirty-three  ndles  north  and  55°  W.,  and  by  tlio 
27th,  fourteen  miles  further  to  north,  and  63°  W. 

DeLong  thought  that  he  was  extremely  fortunate  in  lying  so  lonir 
without  serious  disturbance.  The  upper  part  of  the  propeller  fnuiie 
had  been  uncovered  by  digging  away  the  ice  under  the  stern,  and  no 
sign-  of  any  damage  was  ai)parent  there.  The  ice  also  had  been  diisf 
away  under  the  bows  to  a  point  on  the  stem  where  the  draught  would 
be  six  and  one  half  feet,  at  which  depth  diligent  search  could  detect  no 
injury  to  the  bow,  and  DeLong  came  more  than  ever  to  the  correct 
t)pinion  that  the  ship's  fore-foot  v/as  the  seat  of  the  damage.  Unha])])ily 
at  midnight,  after  the  digging,  the  pressure  of  the  water  miderneath 
was  too  much  for  the  thin  layer  of  remaining  ice,  and  holes  were  broken 
through  suiHicient  to  flood  the  large  pit  under  the  bow.  He  says,  "  If 
we  only  could  get  down  to  the  leak  and  tinker  at  it,  we  might  do  some- 
thing. If  we  could  have  open  water  enough,  we  might  build  a  colTer- 
dam  and  get  it  under  the  bow,  or  if  we  could  get  the  ship  into  a  Imrhor 
and  beach  her,  we  would  be  all  right ;  but  these  things  seem  impos- 


I  i  I 


n'tli-(lei;k,  nuik- 
y  suececdril  in 
little  biilkliwnl 
et  the  water  oil' 
11  our  hopt'd-l'iir 
r,  seem  slipii'mt; 
leakinj^  siiiji  td 
(lute  any  i'lirtlur 
lit^lit  liapptMi  lu 
ted  by  dressino; 
lagstat'l",  and  tho 
11(1  tlag-huistiiii;' 
je  done. 

•atiou  oil  his  cyt' 
would  prohahly 
and  spirits.  The 
r  deteriiiiiiod  by 
VV.;  by  the  l;]tli 
W.,  and  by  tlio 


COAL  SUPPLY   FAILING. 


387 


tiihie."  At  the  same  time  great  confused  masses  were  piled  up  thirty 
and  forty  feet  in  lieight,  and  Siiarvell,  one  of  the  crew,  reported  that 
lie  saw,  about  five  miles  northwest  of  the  sliip,  iee  piled  up  as  high  as 
the  luastliead;  he  thought  the  destructicui  of  the  ship  by  its  reaehing 
tjiiit  mountain  of  iee,  or  by  that  mountain  of  ice  reaehing  her,  merely  a 
,|iiestion  of  time.  On  tlie  24th  and  L'^tli  eight  times  as  much  water  as 
lu'fore  had  come  into  the  fire-room  ;  no  greater  amount  seemed  to  come 
in  forward,  but  it  was  necessary  to  keej)  the  steam-cutter's  engine  going 
nearly  all  the  time  aft.  It  was  impossible  to  discover  what  could  have 
(Toiu!  under  the  slii[)  to  affect  tlu;  leak  in  this  way. 

An  immense  walrus  had  been  shot,  thirty  of  the  dogs  and  four  of 
the  men  being  unable  to  drag  hiin  in  over  the  rough  ice  until  cut  in 
two.  Nindemann  estimated  his  weight  at  two  thousand  eiglit  hundred 
pounds;  a  prize  for  dog  food,  which  Alexai  had  secured.  Strangely 
enough  the  observations  of  the  80th  placed  the  "  Jeannette  "  almost 
identically  in  the  same  position  with  that  occupied  huir  months  before. 

The  h)ok-<)ut  for  steaming,  except  for  a  few  days,  was  already  begin- 
ning to  be  almost  liopeless,  as  with  all  the  economy  which  luid  l)een 
brought  into  use,  sixty-three  tons  of  coal  was  the  utmost  which  could 
he  expected  to  be  on  hand  by  May  1.  Thirty-five  tons  of  this  kept  for 
the  possibility  of  a  second  winter  in  the  pack,  would  leave  but  twenty- 
eight  for  steaming,  puni])ing,  and  cooking  during  the  summer,  yet  the 
eonsumption  of  coal  in  j)uinping  the  ship  had  been  a  necessity,  for  hand- 
imniping  alone  would  have  probably  placed  many  on  the  sick  list.  But 
ii  happy  tliought  came  into  DeLong's  mind ;  pumping  might  be  done 
hy  constructing  a  windmill.  Consulting  Melville  as  to  making  the 
necessary  machinery  on  board  ship,  the  engineer  thought  out  all  the 
(leti'.ils  and  commenced  making  drawings,  and  on  the  17th  mounted  |the 
windmill  as  an  experiment  on  the  ice  without  sails.  Three  days  after- 
wards it  was  attached  to  the  shifted  bilge-[)uin])  and  set  to  work ;  its 
sails,  made  at  first  of  sheeting,  having  too  little  surface,  were  improved 
by  substituting  for  these,  sheet-tin  fans,  utilized  from  the  empty  coffee 
and  sugar  tins.     The  winds,  however,  were  light. 

Hy  the  25th  of  April,  a  meridian  altitude  showed  for  the  lat.  72° 
•")2'  N.,  a  })rogres8  northward  ;  as  the  water  also  was  deepening,  DeLong 


\     ■ 

!       1 

M 

(• 

388 


AMERICAN   EXI'LORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


,1  ( 


n- 


i^ 


''  i 


h 


;'    I 


began  again  to  hope  that  tl-ere  was  a  chance  of  a  speetW  biciikino- 
up  of  the  ice  by  the  wind,  or  by  the  yet  to  be  discovered  cuiniit ; 
but  on  the  26th  the  sounding  suddenly  dropi)ed  thirteen  and  (mic  half 
fathoms  less,  the  drift  was  northwest.  He  was  anxious  to  gel  on, 
hoping  that  73"  was  a  barrier  which  once  passed,  they  could  go  forwaid 
with  some  credit  to  the  name  the  ship  bore.  On  the  last  day  oT  tlie 
month  the  total  drift  as  shown  by  observation,  amounted  to  eight v-tuur 
and  two-tenth  miles  to  and  fro  ;  "made  good  in  a  straight  line  fortv-six 
miles  N.,  50°  W."  The  zigzag  course  of  the  "  Jeannette"  was  licniu- 
ning  to  mark  out  the  whole  strange  line  shown  on  the  Circuiu|iulai' 
Map  in  the  Pocket  of  this  volume.  The  drift  to  the  northwest  v.as 
extremely  disheartening.  DeLong  had  constantly  hoped  to  be  set 
northeast,  but  according  to  the  experience  of  all  in  the  Arctic,  —  ilie 
English  relief  ships  for  Franklin,  the  whalers,  and,  very  recently,  the 
observations  of  Lieutenant  Kay,  U.  S.  Signal  Service  Corps,  stationed 
near  Point  Barrow,  the  ice  masses  of  the  north  do  not  remain  oj)eii. 

In  May,  the  Commander's  journal  has  the  following  striking  pass- 
age:  "Whatever  theory  may  have  been  advanced  as  to  currents  in  this 
part  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  I  think  our  drift  is  demonstrating  that  they 
are  the  local  creation  of  the  wind  for  the  time  being.  As  our  diifi  iu 
general  resulting  direction  has  been  northwest  since  our  first  beset- 
ment,  so  is  it  a  fact  that  the  greater  amount  of  wind  has  been  from  the 
southeast,  our  short  and  irregular  side-drift  east  and  west  and  occasion- 
ally back  to  south  being  due  to  correspondingly  short  and  irreguhu- 
winds  from  northwest  or  east.  A  glance  at  my  wind-record  will  make 
that  clear.  .  .  .  Theory  as  to  our  movement  is  long  since  abandoned  in 
my  mind,  giving  way  to  facts  based  on  experience.  Theory  juay  assert 
how  we  ought  to  drift,  but  our  position  from  day  to  day  shows  how  we 
do  drift,  and  I  accept  the  situation."  Yet  a  lingering  hope  for  the  best 
prompted  him  after  a  short  drift  east,  to  write:  "We  have  evidently 
gotten  under  way  again,  though  from  some  reason  we  are  prevented 
from  going  to  the  westward,  perhaps  by  a  heavy  barrier  of  ice,  against 
which  our  fi.eld  is  slowly  grinding  along.  I  have  had  an  idea  that  our 
drift  of  late  may  be  explained  in  some  such  manner ;  our  field  turning 
on  a  pivot  as  it  advances,  and  eventually  bringing  us  to  its  highest 


3S. 

)eedy  bve;iking 
veved  cuinut ; 
n  and  oiiu  half 
:)us  to  gel  i)ii, 
uld  go  fovwaid 
liist  day  oL'  the 
1  to  eight y-l'iiiu- 
[\t  line  t"(}rty-six 
;te  "  was  bt't-'iii- 
be  CircumiMilai' 
northwest  was 
jped   to  he  set 
ne  Arctic,  —  the 
jry  recently,  tlie 
Corps,  statioiR'il 
remain  open. 
ig  striking  pass- 
1  currents  in  this 
-ating  that  thuy 
As  our  drift  in 
our  first  hi'set- 
,s  been  from  the 
ist  and  occasion- 
■t  and  irruguhir 
[ecord  will  make 
ce  abandoui'l  in 
leory  may  assert 
shows  how  we 
ope  for  the  l)est 
have  evidently 
e  are  prevented 
T  of  ice,  agitinst 
,n  idea  that  our 
ur  field  turning 
.8  to  its  highest 


IMPERFECT  OHSEHVATIONS. 


389 


point  will  throw  us  off  to  the  eastward.    The  northwesting  having  been 
acriniplished  we  are  now  doing  our  nortliing,  and  then  going  to  north- 
east, will  eventually  be  carried  along  east,  by  the  current  which  sets  east 
throiigli  the  Archipelago  north  of  the  American  Continent.     Time  will 
sJKAV  the  fallacy  or  the  truth  of  tliis  supposition;  but  meanwhile  it 
aflords   a  subject  for  contemplation."      Hut  soon  after   this   DcLong 
jii-ain  wrote:  "A  drift  of  five  and  a  half  miles  to  south  38°  E.     The 
irony  of  fate!     How  long,  O  Lord?     How  long?     As  to  there  being 
any  warm  current  reaching  to  a  high  latitude,  we  have  found  none. 
1  am  inclined  to  agree  with  Lieutenant  Weyprecht,  when  he  says,  'The 
(Julf  Stream  does  not  regulate  the  limits  of  the  ice  ;  but  the  ice,  set  in 
motion  by  winds,  regulates  the  limits  of  the  warmer  Gulf  Stream  water; 
and  I  pronounce  a  thermometric  gateway  to  the  pole  a  (hhision  and  a 
snare.'     Of  course,  if  any  warm  current  came  through  Bering  Strait 
it  would  be  the  Kuro  Siwo,  and  our  sea  temperatures  have  indicated 
no  such  fact.  .  .  If  we  only  had  something  to  do,  that  would  be  ad- 
vaiuing  the  interests  of  the  Expedition,  there  would  be  some  excite- 
ment in  the  life.     Hourly  meteorological  observations  are  taken,  it  is 
true,  and  the  ship's  jiosition  daily  obtained  by  sights,  and  then  we 
have  to   stop.      Magnetic  observations   of  any  value   are    impossible, 
l)ecause  of  our  ever-changing  positions.     Rough  observations  for  the 
variations   and  dip   are   obtained,  but   they  will  serve  only  for  con- 
veineiit  approximate  reference,  and  will  have  no  exact  scientific  impor- 
tance.   The  constant  change  of  position  prevents  any  correct  pendulum 
exi)eriments  from  being  made.     No  astronomical  oljservations,  except 
determinations  of  latitude  and  longitude,  with  sextant  and  artificial 
horizon,  have  been  possible,  because  the  erection  of  the  observatory 
and  the  mounting  of  the  instruments  on   the  ice,  in  our  situation, 
would  have  exposed  them  to  loss  should  a  break-up  occur.     Soundings 
are  made  daily,  and  specimens  of  the  bottom  obtained  and  preserved 
for  future  reference.     Temperatures  of  the  surface  water  are  recorded 
every  day  at  the  sounding-hole,  and  that  exhausts  hydrography  for  us. 
At  this  temperature  it  is  not  practicable  to  add  water-cups  and  sea- 
thorinometers  to  our  lead-line,  for  it  ices  up  so  fast,  and  breaks  so 
readily  when  frozen,  that  we  miglit  lose  cu[)s  and  thermometers.    Natu- 


tl-! 


I 


:!■■! 


|.^  ■ 


3U() 


AMEUICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


ral  History  ia  well  looked  out  for.     Any  auiiual  or  bird  that  comes 
near  the  ship  does  so  at  his  peril." 

"The  important  point  of  the  drift,"  says  Lieutenant  Danenliowor 
"  is  in  the  faet  that  the  ship  traversed  an  immense  area  of  ocean,  at 
times  gyrating  in  almost  perfect  circles,  her  course  and  the  observa- 
tions of  her  otlicers  proving  that  land  does  not  exist  in  that  area, 
and  establishing  many  facts  of  value  as  regards  the  depth  and  cliaraclur 
of  the  ocean  bed  and  its  temperatures,  animal  life,  etc.  It  is  miitU'r  ol" 
lasting  regret  that  the  two  thousand  observations  of  Lieutenant  Chipp, 
an  accomplished  electrician,  especialh'  upon  the  disturbances  of  the 
galvanometer  during  auroras,  as  reconnnended  to  be  made  by  the 
Smithsonian  Institution,  as  well  as  the  meteorological  observations  of 
Mr.  Collins,  perished  with  the  lamented  young  officers  in  the  wreck  of 
their  boat  on  the  Siberian  shore." 

May  27,  the  windmill-pump  by  its  connection  with  the  boiler  tnhe- 
pump  was  now  rendering  valuable  service,  reflecting  great  credit  on 
Melville,  Sweetman,  and  Lee. 

Before  the  month  closed,  the  log  was  headed  "  one  bundled  uikI 
ninety  miles  northwest  of  Herald  Island."  The  total  drift  was  one 
hundred  miles,  eighty-two  miles  to  N.  38°  W.  The  average  temper- 
ature had  been  °18.46,  lowest,  — °8.5,  the  highest  35°. 


>M' 


•  I 


n  M 


SUMMER   IN   THE   PACK. 

The  ninth  chapter  of  Mrs.  DeLong's  voyage  of  the  "  Jeannette" 
bears  the  sad  title,  "A  Frozen  Summer,  June-August,  1880."  The  hopes 
of  release  for  the  ship  from  her  icy  cradle  seemed  well  grounded  h\ 
the  thermometer  reading  37°,  with  a  fall  of  rain  on  the  first  day  of -Inne. 
Fires  were  discontinued  in  the  cabin  and  berth-deck,  and  the  record 
could  be  made  that  there  was  a  gradual  resuming  of  ship-shape  pro]ioi- 
tions  to  be  ready  for  a  start  northward  and  eastward,  or  northwju-d  and 
westward,  whichever  '"he  ice  and  the  winds  would  permit;  and  DeLniitj 
had  been  again  hoping  strongly  day  after  day  for  some  indication  of  a 
coming  liberation.  The  decks  were  rapidly  clearing,  and  he  thouglit  he 
was  surely  approaching  the  time  when  nothing  would  remain  hut  to 


1    ' 


ird  that  cunics 

it  Danenliowor, 
rea  of  ocean,  at 
nd  the  obsevva- 
it  ill  that  area, 
Dh  and  chaiaclur 
It  is  luiitlcr  i»l" 
euteuaut  Chipp, 
;urbance8  of  the 
e   made  by  the 
[  observations  of 
ill  the  wreck  of 

I  the  boiler  tuhe- 
r  great  credit  on 

3ne  hundred  and 

tal  drift  was  one 

average  tevnper- 


FALSK    HOPES. 


391 


f' 


the  "Jeannette" 
.880."  The  hopes 
^ell  grounded  hy 
firstday  of -June. 
;,  and  the  reiMud 
hip-shape  propm- 
»r  northward  aiul 

lit;  and  DeLnng 
[e  indication  of  a 

id  he  thought  lie 
Id  remain  but  to 


hang  the  rudder  and  make  sail  for  some  satisfactory  result  of  the  cruise. 
Bui,  from  the  lirst  day  of  the  month  to  the  longest  of  the  year,  fogs, 
snows,  and  gales  were  almost  the  daily  log  entry.  The  drift,  contiary  to 
all  expectation,  had  been  generally  to  the  southeast.  For  more  than 
nine  months  the  ship  had  been  driven  here  and  there  at  the  will  of  the 
winds.  On  the  30th  her  position  was  72°  ID'  41"  N.,  178°  27'  30"  E. 
iifty  miles  south,  9°  E.  of  her  place  on  the  (irst.  She  was  heeling  4°  to 
starboard  (3°  all  winter),  and  her  doubling  on  that  side  was  about  four 
inches  above  the  water.  From  the  crow's  nest  it  could  be  seen  that  she 
was  in  the  centre  of  an  ice-island,  a  lane  of  water  in  some  places  a 
quarter  of  a  mile  wide,  surrounding  her  at  the  distance  of  about  a 
mile.  Much  effort  had  been  made  to  liberate  the  screw  without  suc- 
cess.    The  drift  on  that  day  was  only  one  mile. 

The  journal  of  July  8  makes  special  reference  to  the  thickness  of 
the  Hoes  around  and  underneath  the  "  Jeannette."  It  recites  the  facts, 
that  ''  in  September,  1879,  after  ramming  the  ship  through  forty  miles  of 
leads,  she  was  i)ushed  into  a  crevice  between  two  heavy  Hoes  subsequently 
found  to  be  thirteen  feet  thick ;  a  dep'th  caused  by  the  overriding  and 
uniting  of  one  floe  with  another  by  regelation  under  prtissure.  When 
she  was  pushed  out  into  open  water  November  following,  she  was 
afloat,  but  the  next  day,  iced  in."  By  January  17,  1880,  the  ice  had  a 
thickness  of  four  feet  around  the  vessel,  later  measurements  being  ren- 
dered impossible  by  the  confused  massing  which  took  place  two  days 
afterward.  As  the  leak  had  now  almost  subsided  more  firmly  and  cor- 
rectly, DeLong  believed  that  he  was  buoyed  up  by  a  floe  extending 
down  and  under  the  keel.  "Let  us  hope,"  he  wrote,  "that  one  of 
these  days  the  mass  will  break  up  and  let  us  down  to  our  bearings." 
How  sad  these  bearings  were  to  prove !  The  forefoot  was  irre- 
trievably wrenched.  The  shij)  must  sink  immediately  on  the  "  break- 
ing up." 

During  the  remainder  of  the  month  of  July,  and  throughout  August, 
the  monotonous  record  of  the  previous  months  of  routine  duty  on  board 
shij),  and  of  drift  with  no  release  from  the  ice,  remained  with  scarcely 
a  variation  from  day  to  day.  August  17,  DeLong  writes:  "Our  glor- 
ious summer  is  passing  away;  it  is  painful  beyond  expression  to  go 


892 


AMERICAN    KXPLOUATIONS    IN  THK    ICK   ZONES. 


):'    ' 


i  i^ 


roiiiul  the  ice  in  the  morning  and  see  no  cluinge  since  the  niglit  hcfKic. 
and  to  hjok  the  hist  thing  tit  night  at  the  sain»}  thing  you  saw  in  tlic 
morning.  .  .  .  High  as  our  tenii)erature  is  (34°),  foggy  weather  a  (hiily 
occurrence,  yet  here  we  are  hard  and  fast,  with  ponds  here  and  ilici,. 

• 

two  or  tln-ee  feet  deep,  with  an  occasional  hole  through  to  the  >,.;!, 
Does  the  ice  never  find  an  outlet?  It  has  no  regular  set  in  any  iliitc- 
tion  north,  south,  east,  or  west,  as  far  as  J  can  judge,  but  slnwU 
surges  in  obedience  to  wind  pressure,  and  grinds  back  again  tn  uii 
equilibrium  when  the  pressure  ceases.  Are  there  no  tides  in  ilijs 
ocean?  .  .  .  Full  moon  or  new  moon,  last  quarter  or  first  quarter,  the 
ice  is  as  immovable  as  a  rock.  ...  It  is  hard  to  believe  that  an  iiiiiicuc. 
trable  barrier  exists  clear  up  to  the  Pole,  and  yet  as  far  as  wc  lunc 
gone,  we  have  not  seen  one  speck  of  land  north  of  Herald  Islaiul." 
The  average  drift  for  the  month  had  been  to  the  southenst. 

Sei)tember  1,  the  ship  at  last  was  on  an  even  keel,  and  this  liml 
occurred  very  quietly  and  vv^ithout  shock;  one  or  two  large  chunks  mI' 
ice  rose  to  the  surface  and  then  all  was  still.  The  shin  was  vit 
immovable,  her  keel  and  forefoot  being  held  in  the  cradles.  Alicr 
sawing  under  the  forefoot  five  or  six  feet,  in  the  hope  of  getting  oimc 
more  properly  afloat,  it  was  found  that  more  water  came  in,  and  ilu' 
sawing  must  be  arrested.  The  well-grounded  apprehension  tixisted 
that  the  broken  stem  or  sprung  garboards  were  firmly  held  in  the  ite. 
find  that  work  on  the  ship  would  only  tend  to  open  the  rent  still  nioiv 
widely.  With  the  prospect  of  a  second  winter  in  the  pack,  and  wilii 
but  fifty-three  tons  of  coal,  there  was  no  desire  to  go  back  to  steam 
pumping,  from  which  the  ship  had  been  relieved  by  the  use  of  the  quar- 
ter-deck pump  which  was  now  bringing  by  the  hand  one  hundred  and 
fourteen  gallons  per  hour.  The  comfort  of  being  on  an  even  keel  was 
very  great,  but  the  hope  of  keeping  the  ship  afloat  if  she  should  rcarli 
open  water,  was  to  all  very  questionable.  Before  the  close  of  ilie 
month,  the  idea  of  open  water  was  abandoned,  and  preparations  made 
for  a  second  winter  in  the  pack.  What  gave  the  most  concern  and 
anxiety  was  to  make  it  possible  for  a  readiness  to  abandon  the  ship 
suddenly  in  case  of  disaster.  As  long  as  enough  of  the  vessel  should 
remain  for  shelter,  it  was  preferable  to  camping  on  the  ice;  and  the 


!•:«. 


THE   AUCTIC    NIGHT. 


31)3 


you  saw  ill  I  lie 
weather  a  <laily 
here  and  tlicic 

mh    to    tlir    M'li, 

,et  in  any  iliitc- 
cre,  but  sldwiv 
ck  a<^'ain  to  nu 
ID  tides  in  I  his 
rst  quartef,  tin; 
that  an  iniiu'nc- 
far  as  \\v  have 
Ilerahl  Ishiiid.'" 
3a  st. 

el,  and  this  had 
lavffe  chuid^s  nt' 
le   shij)   was  vrt 
1  cradles.     Alicv 
of  gettintj  oiicc 
ame  in,  and  liic 
shension   tixist^-d 
held  in  the  ire. 
,e  rent  still  more 
pack,  and  with 
back  to  steam 
use  of  the  quai- 
iiie  hundred  and 
[u  even  keel  was 
le  should  rcarh 
le   close  ol"  tlie 
iparations  made 
)st  concern  and 
landon  the  ship 
lie  vessel  should 
Ihe  ice;  and  tiie 


lamented  Commander  already  could  "  conceive  no  greater  forlorn  hope 
tlian  to  attempt  to  reach  Siberia  over  the  ice  with  a  winter's  cohl  sap- 
|)ing  one's  lite  at  every  step." 

There  was  no  ai)prehension  of  the  lack  of  food,  several  bears  being 
i!i;ain  secured.  With  the  excei)tion  of  Lieutenant  Danenhower's  case, 
and  that  of  the  temjjorary  sickness  of  two  »)!'  the  crew,  the  general 
hiidth  of  the  ship's  company  remained  good,  the  (juiek  restoration  of 
the  sick  showing  a  freedom  fnmi  all  taint  of  scurvy.  Lieutenant 
I)aiH!idiower  had  been  under  severe  treatment  for  nine  months,  but 
I'di    his  eyes  only. 

I'LKASANT   onSKIlVATIONS. 

In  some  relief  doubtless  to  the  monotonous  journal  entries  of  these 
months,  the  "Voyage  of  the  '  Jeannette '"  contains  several  sjjecially 
graphic  i)ictures,  the  first  of  which  here  cited  is  from  DeLong's  pen, 
and  the  second  from  Lieutenant  Chipp's. 

"October  10.  I  have  heretofore  made  several  attempts  to  describe 
the  beauty  of  these  Arctic  winter  nights,  but  have  found  my  powers  too 
feeble  to  do  the  subject  justice.  They  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated. 
It  is  so  hard  to  make  a  (lescrii>tive  picture  of  moon,  stars,  ice,  and 
ship,  and  unluckily  photography  cannot  come  into  pl.ay  in  this  ten.ipera- 
tiu'f  to  supply  a  real  [)icture.  Imagine  a  moon  nearly  full,  a  cloudless 
sky,  brilliant  stars,  a  pure  white  waste  of  snow-covered  ice,  which 
seems  firm  and  crisp  under  your  feet,  a  shij)  standing  out  in  bold  relief, 
every  ro])e  and  thread  plainly  visible,  and  enormously  enlarged  by 
accumulations  of  fluffy  and  down-like  frost  feathers;  and  you  have  a 
crude  picture  of  the  scene.  But  to  fill  in  and  properly  understand  the 
situation,  one  must  experience  the  majestic  and  awful  silence  which 
generally  prevails  on  these  occasions,  and  causes  one  to  feel  how  tri- 
iHng  ami  insignificant  he  is  in  comparison  with  such  grand  works  in 
nature.  The  brightness  is  wonderful.  The  reflection  of  moonlight 
from  bright  ice-spots  makes  brilliant  effects,  and  should  a  stray  piece  of 
tin  he  near  you,  it  seems  to  have  the  light  of  a  dazzling  gem.  A  win- 
dow in  the  deck-house  looks  like  a  calcium  light  when  the  moonlight 
strikes  it  at  the  proper  angle,  and  makes  the  feeble  light  from  an  oil- 


894 


AMKUICAN    KXl'LOllATIONS    IN   THE    ICK   ZONEH. 


i   t 


::  '■ 


lam])  within,  hcoiu  ridiculous  when  tiie  ungle  is  chunked.  Stuiulintr  ,,,j,, 
Iinndred  yards  away  from  thu  ship  onu  has  u  scene  uf  the  gniiidcst 
wildest,  and  most  awful  beauty." 

On  the  followin}^  midnight,  he  says,  "the  scene  was  ahnost  woitli 
the  imprisonment  tliat  accompanied  it.  One  half  the  sky  was  covi  rod 
by  cumulo-stratus  clou<ls,  moving  from  nortli  to  south,  and  at  ilmt 
moment,  extending  from  the  zenith  to  the  southern  horizon,  obscuriiijr 
the  moon  anil  the  stars  (norili  of  the  y-enith  the  sky  was  clear,  (except 
a  streak  of  cirro-stratus  above  a  small  bank  of  rising  cumulo-stralus). 
Inunediately  following  the  lirst-named  cumulo-stratus  clouds,  and  near 
the  zenith,  was  a  faint  auroral  arch  extending  from  ea^t  to  west,  with 
its  ends  slightly  curving  to  the  southward,  and  hidden  by  the  clouds 
near  the  horizon.  As  the  clouds  nearly  uncovered  the  east  end,  a  nuiss 
of  bright-green  light  shot  up,  and  s[)read  like  a  fan  over  10°  of  arc: 
and  just  as  the  east  end  was  completely  uncovered,  the  mass  changed 
into  brilliant  green  spiral  curtains,  terminating  a  bright  white  arch 
through  the  zenith  to  west.  After  perhaps  u  minute,  the  clouds  hciiitr 
well  clear  of  the  arch,  the  light  paled  and  lost  colors,  and  the  arch-ends 
straggled  back  to  northwest  and  northeast,  the  centre  being  at  the 
zenith.  The  moon  then  became  entirely  uncovered,  the  floe  seemed 
lighted  as  in  midday,  and  but  few  faint  streaks  of  arches  remained 
thin  and  almost  indeterminate." 

At  the  later  winter  date  of  December  27,  at  8  A.  M.,  Lieuteiuuit 
Chipp  noted  "  a  bright  auroral  curtain  about  10°  above  the  horizon  fniin 
east-southeast  to  northwest,  generally  white,  but  occasionally  showing 
a  green  shade,  and  rarely  a  brownish-red  color,  which  disappeared  as 
soon  as  seen.  Above  this  curtain  the  sky  was  of  a  deep  blue  black, 
through  which  the  stars  shone  brilliantly  as  they  did  also  through  the 
deepest  part  of  the  curtain.  Above  the  deep  blue-black  were  irregular 
spirals  and  streaks  of  white  light,  in  continuous  motion  api)earing  and 
disappearing  ..;)idly.  From  east  to  west,  through  the  zenith,  was  an 
irregular  arch  formed  of  detached  streaks  of  brownish-red  light,  anKuii^ 
which  Avhite  light  would  suddenly  appear,  and  as  suddenly  vanish. 
This  arch  was  5°  broad.  Stars  shone  with  apparently  undiminished 
brilliancy  through  the  deepest  color." 


li' 


Stundinn- 1,|„, 
the  gmiul.st, 

almost  wnitli 
:y  WiiH  eovcicd 
l»,  and  at  tliiit 
izoii,  obsciiiiiig 
»  clear,  except 
Jiniilo-sti'iiliis). 
ouds,  aitd  iiciir 
t  to  west,  with 

by  the  (blonds 
ast  end,  a  nuiss 
/er  10°  of  are ; 

mass  clianj^ed 
;ht  white  arch 
le  clouds  l)eiii<r 
d  the  arch-ends 
i  being  at  the 

le  tloe  seemed 
clies  reniiiined 

M.,  Lieutenant 
le  liorizon  from 
)nally  showing 
disappeared  as 

p  blue  hlaek, 
o  through  the 
were  irregular 
appearing  and 
zenith,  was  an 
d  light,  among 

denly  vanish. 

undiminished 


LAND   DISCOVKUKI). 


895 


It  must  be  already  u  matter  of  nuudi  surprise  to  ttu;  reader,  awaken* 
iiiM  tlie  deejiest  interest  and  sympathy  in  these  few  pages  of  "The 
Jdnrnal,"  to  nnirk  how  these  disappointeil  explorers,  conscious  (d'  lost 
hi>|ies  of  usefidness,  and  of  almost  lost  ho[)e  of  fn-edom  fnun  ice 
imprisonment,  kept  up  their  good  cheer.  Christnuis  day  and  New 
V(  ar's  day  had  witnessed  the  rep(!tition  of  celebrations  as  if  at  home  ; 
anil  the  amusements  necessary  for  iiealth  even  in  Arctic  solitude  and 
it>  monotony  were  renewed.  There  never,  perhaps,  was  eciual  proof 
id'  the  etenuil  springing  up  of  hope  than  here,  even  after  the  severest 
reverses.  There  is  abundant  conlirnuition  of  the  declaration  written 
hv  the  late  Adnural  Davis  in  his  reference  to  the  Polaris  party  — 
(  "Narrative  of  the  North  Polar  Expedition  of  1871  ")  —  that  a  trust 
ill  Divine  Providence  never  deserts  the  breast  of  a  true  seaman.  De 
b(ing  does  not  seem  to  have  omitted  a  single  reading  of  Divine  Service 
to  his  ollicers  on  8hij)board,  and  doubtless  gave  himself  entirely  into 
the  hands  of  the  Omnipotent,  expressing  fre(iuently  his  thankfulness 
for  what  health,  comfort,  and  hope  remained — and  this  to  the  last 
hour.  January  1,  1881,  he  wrote :  "  I  begin  the  new  year  by  turiung 
over  a  new  leaf  in  this  book,  and  I  hope  in  (iod  we  are  turning  over  a 
new  leaf  in  our  book  of  luck.  I  am  thankful  for  our  preservation 
among  nuiny  perils."  But  winter  went  on,  spring  came,  that  is  to  say 
as  named  in  the  calendar;  but  no  spring  for  the  "  Jeannette ; "  no 
release  ;  no  assurance  of  it,  nor  even  from  destruction  of  the  ship  at 
any  hour. 

THE   Sl'IUN(i   OF   1S81. 

The  first  break  of  the  monotony  came  in  May.  On  the  10th,  Ice- 
^lastor  Dunbar  called  Chipp  to  look  at  Land,  clearly  enougli  an  island, 
hearing,  by  DeLong's  quickly  nuule  (d)servations,  S.  78°  45'  (magnetic), 
N.  83°  15'  W.  true  —  the  first  land  to  greet  the  eye  since  March  24, 
1880,  fourteen  months  before.  What  it  had  to  do  in  the  economy  of 
nature  standing  desolate  among  the  icy  wastes  was  not  the  question  ; 
it  might  be  the  spot  to  which  the  ducks  and  geese  had  been  Hying,  and 
if  the  ship  could  get  some  of  them  for  a  change,  what  a  treat !  "  Four- 
teen months  without  anything  to  look  at  but  ice  and  sky,  and  twenty 


■    f'l 


396 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE   ICE  ZONES. 


if 


■Si  !l 


f  ■  i . 


*! 


ik 


:ii  H  ^ 


iU 


i«f 


months  drifting  in  the  pack  will  make  a  little  mass  of  volcanic  i(H;k 
like  our  inland  as  pleasing*  to  the  eye  as  an  oasis  in  the  desert."  On 
the  following  day  observations  placed  the  ship  in  lat.  70°  43'  3S'',  lono., 
E.  lOr  42'  30";  the  rocky  cliffs  of  the  island  appeared  with  a  snow- 
covered  sh)pe,  the  highest  and  further  corner  seeming  to  be  a  vohano 
toj).  The  temperature  noted  was  maximum  11°  5',  minimum  5°  5'.  The 
"  Jeannette  "  drifted  past  on  the  north  side  ;  the  ice  was  so  broken,  uikI 
the  pack  running  so  rapidly  that  DeLong  did  not  think  it  prudent  tu 
make  an  attempt  to  land.     Sketches  wore  made  from  the  cro.v's  nest. 

May  24,  the  pleasing  sight  was  renewed,  more  land  was  ahead,  iuid 
the  ice  very  s'-ick,  with  many  large  lanes  of  water  varying  in  lentil 
from  an  eighth  of  a  mile  to  three  miles,  and  in  width  from  twenty  in 
one  hundred  feet.  The  lanes  were  very  tantalizing;  they  seemed  to  he 
within  a  radius  of  live  miles,  but  the  islands  were  from  thirty  to  loriv 
miles  off,  and  from  that  five  miles  radius  to  them,  the  ice  was  as  clns, 
and  compact  as  ever.  On  the  31st,  estimating  the  distance  to  be  hut 
fifteen  or  twenty  miles.  Engineer  Melville,  in  company  with  Dunhar 
and  Nindemann,  and  three  other  seamen,  set  out  from  the  ship  with  a 
fifteen-dog  team  to  visit  this  second  island.  They  landed  on  it  June  o, 
and  took  possession  for  tlie  United  States,  naming  it  Henrietta  — 
the  name  of  a  sister  of  Mr.  Bennett ;  a  cairn  was  built  and  a  recoid 
})laced  within  it,  and  a  limited  examination  made  of  twelve  iiours.  It 
was  found  to  be  a  desolate  rock,  surrounded  by  a  snow  cap  whicli  \\'v>U 
several  glaciers  on  its  east  face.  "Within  the  inaccessible  cliffs,  ncstiuo' 
dovekies  were  the  only  signs  of  life.  To  reach  the  land,  the  party  left 
their  boat  and  supplies,  and  carrying  only  one  day's  provisions  and  tlkir 
instruments  went  through  the  frightful  ice  mass  at  the  risk  of  life,  diag- 
ging  the  dogs,  which  through  fear,  refused  to  follow  their  luiiiuui 
leaders.  Mr.  Dunbar  returned  badly  affected  by  snow-blindness:  C'hi|)|), 
Niv/comb,  Dunbar,  and  Alexai  were  now  on  the  sick  list,  on  which 
Surgeon  Ambler  had  kept  DeLong  also  for  several  daj's,  in  consecpionce 
of  a  severe  wound  in  his  head  received  incidentally  from  a  fan  of  the 
windmill.  A  general  order  was  made  out  giving  the  names  and  jiosilimis 
of  the  two  islands,  Jeannette  Island,  lat.  70"  47',  long.,  E.  loH"  ol!'.  ap- 
proximate; Henrietta  Island,  lat.  77°  8', long.,  E.  157°  43'.  DeLong  wrote: 


TUE   FLOE   OPENS. 


397 


«'  'I'liank  God,  we  have  at  last  landed  upon  a  iiewly-tliscovered  part  of 
tlii>  earth,  and  a  perilous  journey  (Melville's)  has  been  acconii)lished 
\vitliout  disaster.  It  was  a  great  risk,  but  it  has  resulted  in  some 
advantage." 

THE   CUUSH    AT   LAST,    JUNE    IJ],   188L 

These  discoveries  were,  however,  to  be  the  only  fruits  of  the  long 
weary  months ;  sad  forecasts  of  a  ship  to  be  crushed  within  the  coming 
woi'k.  On  the  very  day  last  named,  the  ice  around  her  was  broken 
(i  )wn  in  immense  masses,  the  whole  pack  being  alive,  and  had  the  ship 
been  within  one  of  the  fast-closing  leads  she  would  have  been  ground 
to  powder.  Embedded  in  a  small  island  of  ice,  she  was  as  yet  protected 
from  the  direct  crushing  on  her  sides,  but  felt  a  continual  hannnering 
and  thumping  of  the  ice  under  her  bottom. 

On  the  12th,  Sunday,  at  midnight,  in  a  few  moments'  time,  she  was  set 
free  by  the  split  of  the  floe  on  a  line  with  her  keel,  and  suddenly  right- 
ing, started  all  hands  from  their  beds  to  the  deck,  liy  9  A.  M.  the  ice 
had  commenced  coming  in  on  her  side ;  a  heavy  tloe  was  hauled  ahead 
iiilo  a  hole  where  it  was  supposed  the  ice  coming  together  would  impinge 
on  itself  instead  of  on  the  ship.  The  pressui-e  was  veiy  heavy,  and  gave 
forth  a  hissing,  crunching  sound,  and  at  3.40  v.  M.  the  ice  was  re[)orted 
coming  through  the  starboard  coal  bunkers. '  The  ship  was  heeling  more 
than  20°  to  starboard.  At  four  o'clock  she  was  lying  perfectly  (^uiet,  but 
her  bows  were  thrown  up  so  high  in  the  air,  that  looking  down  through 
the  water  the  injury  to  her  forefoot  made  Jan.  19,  1880,  could  be  seen. 
Melville  went  on  the  floe  to  take  her  plu>tograph,  but  on  returning  to 
the  ship  heard  the  order  to  prepare  to  leave  the  vessel  by  getting  out 
the  chronometers,  rifles,  ammunition,  and  other  articles  to  the  floe.  l-.ieu- 
toiiant  Cliipp  was  quite  sick  in  bed,  but  was  notified  ;  Captain  OeLong 
"was  everywhere,  seeing  that  all  things  went  on  smoothly  and  quirtly, 
without  the  least  haste  or  consternation  among  the  crew ;  he  came 
about  the  deck  in  the  same  manner  as  tiiougii  we  were  in  no  ilanger 
wliatever,  and  tried  to  have  the  oilicers  and  men  feel  as  collected  as  he 
was."  There  was  ample  time  for  all  ])ersons  to  get  out  their  personal 
elTccts,  but  to  get  a  barrel  of  lime-juice,  so  necessary  to  prevent  scurvy 


mil 

1   ; 

398 


AMERICAN  EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE  ICE  ZONES. 


h4 


?!^M:i 


iH 


■ 


t 


on  their  march,  Seaman  Starr  waded  into  the  forward  store-i'oom  at  the 
risk  of  liis  life. 

Wlien  the  order  was  given  for  all  hands  to  leave  the  ship  at  ahout 
eleven  at  night,  her  water-ways  had  been  broken  in,  the  iron  woik 
around  the  smoke-pipe  buckled  up,  the  rivets  sheared  off,  and  ihe 
smoke-stack  left  supported  only  by  the  guys.  Three  boats  were  low- 
ered, the  first  find  the  second  cutter,  and  the  first  whale-boat;  and  tlie 
ship's  party  of  thirty-three  made  their  camp  on  the  floe  in  six  tents, 
but  within  an  hour  were  compelled  to  move  still  further  from  its  edt^e 
by  the  breaking  up  of  the  floe  in  their  camp. 

Lieutenant  Danenhower,  in  his  interesting  "  Narrative  of  the  Jean- 
nette,"  from  which  much  that  follows  is  derived,  says  that  soon  after 
the  watch  was  set  and  the  order  given  to  turn  in,  when  they  W(Me 
just  getting  into  their  sleeping-bags,  the  ice  cracked  immediately  under 
the  Captain's  tent,  and  Erickson  would  have  gone  into  the  water,  but 
for  the  Mackintosh  blanket  in  which  he  with  others  was  lying,  the 
weight  (jf  hip  ompanions  on  each  side  keeping  the  middle  of  it  from 
falling  through.  After  about  two  hours'  work  the  stores  and  three 
boats  were  shifted  to  another  floe  piece,  and  the  party  again  turned  in, 
about  four  hundred  yards  from  where  the  ship  was  going  do.v^n  in  lat. 
77°  14'  57"  N.,  long.  154°  58'  45"  E. 

At  4  a.:m.,  June  13,  the  cry  of  the  watch  was  heard,  "There  she 
goes  ;  Iiurry  up  and  look,  the  last  sight  j'ou  will  have  of  the  old  '  Jeaii- 
nette ' ! "  While  the  ice  had  he^d  together,  it  had  held  her  broken 
timbers.  When  it  opened  —  with  lier  colors  flying  at  the  masthead  — 
'she  sank  in  thirty-eight  fathoms  of  water,  stripping  her  yards  upwards 
as  she  passed  through  the  floe.  At  3  A.M.,  her  smoke-pipe  top  was 
nearly  awash ;  the  main  topmast  first  fell  by  the  board  to  starboard, 
then  the  fore  topmast,  and  last  of  all  the  mainmast.  The  ship  before 
sinking  had  heeled  to  starboard  about  30°,  and  the  entire  starboard  side 
of  the  spar  deck  was  submerged,  the  rail  being  under  water,  and  the 
water  line  reached  to  the  hatch-coamings  before  the  ship  had  been 
abandoned.  The  next  morning,  a  visit  to  the  place  where  she  was  la.«t 
seen  showed  nothing  more  than  a  sigiuil  chest  and  a  cabin  chair  with 
some  smaller  articles  afloat. 


SUPPLIES   FOR   A  JOUUNEY. 


399 


.•e-rooni  at  the 


THE   KETKEAT    SOUTHWARD. 

June  16,  DeLong  called  all  hands  and  read  an  order  that  the  start 
southward  would  begin  at  6  P.M.  on  the  following  day,  the  march  to  be 
ill  the  night  to  avoid  snow-blindnesw  from  the  intense  light;  dinner  to 
hv  at  midnight,  supper  at  6  a.m.,  to  bo  followed  by  sleep.  The  delay 
liad  been  made  on  the  recommendation  of  Surgeon  Ambler  that  the  sick 
iiiid  disabled  might  recruit  before  commencing  their  toilsome  journey. 
Si'vcral  of  the  ship's  company  were  suffering  from  lead  poison,  induced 
by  the  action  of  the  acid  on  the  inner  coating  of  the  tins  containing 
canned  goods,  a  fact  which  reminds  one  of  the  condition  of  the  cans 
found  on  Eeechey  Island  ])y  the  first  searching  parties  of  the  Franklin 
Relief  Expeditions,  the  empty  cans  there  showing  by  their  bulged  forms 
the  effect  of  the  fermentation  of  the  fruit  within.  In  the  case  of  the 
".leunnette,"  the  poisoning  from  tomato  cans  had  caused  severe  cramps; 
eight  of  the  party  being  on  the  sick  list. 

Although  at  the  fearful  distance  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  miles 
from  the  Siberian  coast,  with  the  prospect  of  the  most  toilsome  of 
marches  over  hunnnocks,  and  all  the  uncertainties  of  a  landing  and  the 
sultsequent  journeyings  which  must  be  made  of  over  fifteen  hundred 
miles  to  Yakoutsk,  or  six  thousand  five  hundred  to  St.  Petersburg, 
ollicers  and  men  accepted  their  new  conditions  in  the  same  spirit  of 
fortitude  and  hope.  Their  dependence  was  upon  the  amount  of  pro- 
visions and  clothing  saved,  their  boats,  sleds,  teams,  and  their  owti 
energy.  They  had  nearly  five  thousand  pounds  of  American  pemmican 
in  canisters  of  forty-five  pounds  weight  each,  about  fifteen  hundred 
,,oimds  of  other  canned  provisions,  and  fifteen  hundred  pounds  of 
t)read ;  with  a  full  supply  of  ammunition  for  game,  two  dingys  beside 
the  three  boats  iiamed,  and  in  all,  nine  sleds. 

Before  breaking  camp,  DeLong  prepared  and  carefully  sewed  up  in 
a  piece  of  black  rubber  placed  within  an  empty  boat  breaker,  a  record 
reciting  the  facts  of  the  abandonment  of  the  "  Jeannette  "  after  the  dis- 
covery of  the  two  islands  named,  and  the  crushing  of  the  ship,  and  of 
the  start  southward  in  the  hope,  with  God's  blessing,  to  reach  the  new 
Siberian  Islands,  and  from  thence  to  make  a  way  by  boats  for  the  coasts 


f 

' 

liM 


vU\-> 


Hivf: 


f' 


n 


'f  i 


400 


AMERICAN  EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE   ICE  ZONES. 


of  Siberia.  The  closing  paragraphs  of  the  record  spoke  of  the  ice  as  df 
the  same  character  witli  that  encountered  by  Captain  Nares,  of  the  [)rev- 
alence  of  the  southeast  winds,  and  of  there  being  no  currents  not 
caused  by  tlie  prevailing  wind  at  the  time.  The  month  was  a  cold 
one,  and  he  was  inclined  to  think  it  would  be  a  cold  summer. 

The  order  of  march  was  at  first  to  advance  the  first  cutter  to  a  point 
established  by  Ice-Pilot  Dunbar,  and  then  take  forward  one  by  one  the 
other  two  boats  and  provision  sleds.  Each  officer  and  man  was  provided 
with  a  harness,  fashioned  to  go  across  the  chest  and  one  shoulder,  iind 
attached  to  the  sled  by  a  lanyard;  the  snow  was  knee-deep,  tlio  road 
very  rough  and  full  of  fissures  over  which  the  boats  were  jumped  or 
ferried,  while  the  sleds  were  dragged  over  large  hummocks.  The  first 
mile  and  a  half  was  made  in  three  hours,  an  unpromising  forecast.  Lieu- 
tenant Chipp,  who  had  urged  his  being  put  on  duty,  fainted,  and  life, 
the  machinist,  and  Lauterbach,  had  been  sufiering  agony  with  cramps. 
A  halt  of  two  days  was  necessary  to  repair  damages,  v  len  a  progress 
was  again  made  of  about  a  mile  or  a  mile  and  a  iialf  a  day  over  the 
rough  and  moving  floe.  The  men  had  to  go  over  the  road  thirteen 
times  —  seven  times  with  loads  and  six  times  empty-handed  —  thus 
making  twenty-six  miles  to  make  an  advance  of  only  two.  Twenty- 
one  men  had  to  do  most  of  the  work  for  the  thirty-three.  At  the  end 
of  the  first  week  the  Captain  found  by  observation,  that  the  drift  had 
more  than  neutralized  the  way  covered  by  the  advance ;  that,  in  fact, 
he  had  lost  twenty-seven  miles  by  the  drift  to  the  northwest  in  excess 
of  the  march  to  the  South  !  This,  of  course,  was  kept  a  profound 
secret.  In  the  latter  part  of  June  the  snow  all  melted  and  travelling 
was  better,  but  the  men  had  to  wade  through  pools  of  thaw-w[it'.!r  and 
their  feet  were  constantly  wet.  The  number  oi  times  passed  over  the 
ground  was  reduced  to  seven,  and  the  advance  facilitated. 


DISCOVERY   OP  BENNETT   ISLAND. 


July  11,  a  heavy  water  sky  was  seen  to  the  south  and  southeast, 
and  the  experienced  ice-pilot  expressed  his  opinion  that  such  clouds 
did  not  hang  over  ice.     Climbing  to  the  top  of  a  hummock  twenty  ("eet 


BENNETT   ISLAND. 


401 


alxivo  the  water  level,  DeLoiig  says  that  he  saw  a  larj^o  expanse  of  ' 
water  and  unmistakable  land ;  and  thoiioht  that  he  niiyht  be  at  the 
margin  of  the  ice-lield  leading  him  to  open  water  and  thence  to  the 
Siberian  coast.  At  6.30  A.m.,  he  cam[)ed  on  an  iee  island  about  five 
liiiudred  yards  in  diameter  with  no  encouraging  outlook,  the  southwest 
lidiizon  foggy  and  the  land  and  water  disa[)pearing.  The  utnu)st  dis- 
tance made  toward  the  island  was  but  two  miles,  and  from  this  time 
the  progress  was  very  slow,  but  it  was  a  steady  ice  dril"t  to  tiie  north- 
cast,  and  on  the  28th  a  landing  was  made  on  tlie  new  discovery.  The 
island  was  so  steep  that  a  footing  was  liad  with  dilFiculty,  yet  at  7  r.M. 
everybody  was  on  shore,  the  silk  Hag  was  unfurled,  and  possession  taken 
ill  the  name  of  the  President  of  tlie  United  States.  The  south  cape 
was  mimed  Cape  Emma,  lat.  76°  3H"  N.,  long.  148"  20"  E. 

Tlie  surgeon.  Dr.  Ambler,  says  of  Bennett  Island:  "It  is  certainl}^ 
(if  volcanic  origin.  It  is  composed  of  trap-rock,  a  species  of  feldspathic 
pick,  igneous  rock  with  silica  caught  up  in  it  in  masses;  trap-rock  witfi 
c;lol)ules  of  silica;  trap-rock  containing  globules,  which  rock  being 
broken  shows  the  globules  of  the  darker  color  sticking  in  the  matrix, 
while  the  portion  of  the  mass  knocked  off  will  show  a  complete  mould 
or  bed.  The  globules  are  about  the  size  of  a  pea,  receive  a  bright 
])(ilisli  from  the  finger,  and  are  soft  enough  to  be  cut  with  a  knife  ;  silica, 
very  light  stone  ;  tufa,  I  think,  of  a  light  brown  color,  spongy  iu  ap- 
pearance, as  if  blown  up  by  gases ;  lava  of  different  colors,  varying 
iVom  a  yellowish  brown  to  a  dark  green;  clays  almost  the  color  of 
bricks ;  debris  from  the  sides  of  the  cliff  being  disintegrated  portions 
fif  this  red,  seemingly  baked  clay. 

"The  face  of  the  cliff.  Cape  Emma,  is  in  six  terraces  of  igneous  rock, 
separated  by  other  strata  imposed,  of  the  red  clay  stuff  which  contains 
most  of  the  silica.  The  amethyst  was  found  in  a  matrix  of  quartz 
imbedded  in  the  trap  rock.  The  stalagmite  and  stalactite  were  found 
upon  breaking  open  a  mass  of  trap-rock  found  lying  on  the  beach,  and 
could  easily  be  removed  by  the  finger.  The  stratification  is  liorizontal; 
fossils  seen.  Tliere  is  also  a  white  stone  with  very  much  the  appear- 
ance of  gypsum.  There  are  two  varieties,  one  occurring  in  tabular 
masses,  with  glistening  sides  when  held  in  the  light,  and  the  other  of  a 


i    •!     ^i 


% 


402 


AMERICAN  EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE  ICE  ZONES. 


dull,  opaque  wliitc,  and  in  rounded  masses  whiah  show  the  actiou  of 
water.  Both  varieties  can  be  cut  with  a  knife,  and  form  an  opiuiiK! 
white  powder,  wliich  effervesces  upon  applying  nitric  and  actiic 
acids." 

The  ship's  company  now  encamped  for  several  days,  needing  rest 
and  change  of  diet.  Their  first  surfeit  on  the  numerous  birds  readily 
knocked  down  brought  some  sickness,  compelling  a  return  to  pcm- 
mican.  Dunbar  and  the  two  Indians  explored  the  east  side  of  the 
island,  finding  there  several  grassy  valleys ;  Lieutenant  Chipp  and  Mr. 
Collins  explored  the  south  and  west  sides ;  a  box  of  geological  s[)in;i- 
mens  was  obtained  and  brought  home  by  Lieutenant  Danenhower.  Dr. 
And)ler  obtained  amethysts,  opals,  and  petrifactions;  tidal  obsei'vations 
were  made,  the  greatest  rise  and  fall  noted  being  about  three  feet.  The 
party  left  the  island  August  6,  and  made  fair  progress  until  the  20th, 
Avhen,  after  drifting  along  the  north  coast  of  Thadeoffsky  Island  (or 
Tliaddeus  Island),  they  were  imprisoned  nearly  ten  days,  after  which 
they  found  themselves  in  navigable  water,  and  rounded  the  south  [xjint 
of  the  island. 


t 


Mr 


j,:    j 


'M   i 


THE  BOATS. 

The  three  boats  and  their  several  occupants  were,  the  first  cutter, 
holding  Captain  DeLong,  Surgeon  Ambler,  Mr.  Collins,  and  eleven  of 
the  crew,  including  Ah  Sam,  the  cook,  and  the  Indian,  Alexai ;  tiie 
second  cutter,  with  Lieutenant  Chipp,  Ice-Pilot  Dunbar,  and  six  of  the 
crew;  and  the  whale-boat.  Engineer  Melville  commanding.  Lieutenant 
Danenhower  (invalid),  and  eight  of  the  crew,  including  the  Chinese 
steward,  and  the  Indian,  Aneguin.  The  dijnensions  of  the  second 
cutter  Avere  much  less  than  those  of  either  of  the  other  two  boats,  her 
extreme  length  being  but  sixteen  feet  three  inches,  while  that  of  the 
first  cutter  was  twenty  feet  four  inches,  and  of  the  whale-boat,  twenty- 
five  feet  four  inches.  Chipp's  cutter  was  also  a  very  bad  sea-boat,  and 
had  not  sufficient  carrying  capacity  for  a  full  allowance  of  provisions. 
The  fir  >  cutter  had  the  greatest  carryinf^  capacity  of  the  three,  was 
fitted  with  mast  and  one  shifting  lug  sail,  pulled  six  oars,  and  was  an 
excellent  sea-boat.     The  depth  of  the  first  cutter  and  of  the  whale- 


THE   SEPAKATION. 


403 


;he  action  uf 

U     illl    (ipIUlUI! 

[)    and   ucL'iic 

needing  rest 
birds  readily 
iturn  to  pein- 
it  side  of  the 
Jliipp  and  Mr. 
ological  speei- 
Linhower.    Dr. 
J  observations 
iree  feet.    The 
until  the  2Uth, 
sky  Island  (or 
^s,  after  which 
he  south  point 


boat  from  top  of  gunwale  to  top  of  keel  was  two  feet  two  inches  ;  that 
ol"  the  second  cutter,  two  feet  six  inches.  The  whale-boat  was  one  of 
the  very  best  faslerxed  of  boats  ;  each  was  clinker-built,  co[)per-fastened, 
inside  lining. 

TJie  draught  of  the  boats  when  loaded  (from  twenty-four  to  twenty- 
eight  inches),  was  caused  by  the  heavy  oak  keel  pieces  put  upon  them 
to  strengthen  them  for  hauling  over  the  ice.  Fitted  with  weather 
tloths,  at  the  date  of  September  11,  their  free  boards  were  about  twelve 
inches  above  water.  The  whale-boat  had  one  prismatic  compass,  and 
a  pocket  chronometer;  the  second  cutter  had  the  same,  and  a  liow- 
(litch  Navigator;  and  the  first  cutter  a  box  and  a  pocket  chronometer, 
u  comparing  watch,  and  a  pair  of  binoculars.  Lieutenant  Chipp  also 
had  a  pair. 

FIEST   LANDING.  —  NEW   SIBERIAN    ISLANDS. 

On  the  10th,  the  land  of  the  Asiatic  coast  was  in  sight,  estimated  to 
be  twenty  miles  westward ;  and  on  the  11th,  a  landing  was  made  and 
parties  sent  out  hunting.  An  old  deserted  hut  \as  found,  and  human 
footprints  made  by  a  civilized  boot.  Lieutenaiit  Chipp  and  some  of 
his  sailors  visited  Melville's  camp,  and  reported  that  they  had  had  a 
very  rough  experience. 

September  12,  the  three  boats  left  Semenovski  Island  on  Avhich 
the  party  had  camped,  at  about  8  A.M.,  and  remained  in  company 
till  noon,  dining  together.  A  gale  was  connuencing  from  the  north- 
east, which  by  7  p.m,  forced  all  hands  in  the  whale-boat  to  be  pumping 
or  baling  out  water.  The  course  Avas  south-southwest,  true.  Ca])tain 
DeLong  was  about  five  hundred  yards  distant  from  Melville,  and  Chipp 
seven  hundred  from  DeLong,  The  gale  increasing,  both  of  these  last 
were  lost  sight  of  by  the  whale-boat ;  the  first  cutter,  destined  to  land 
lior  party  and  make  the  sad  experience  of  their  intense  suffering  to 
death  by  cold  and  starvation ;  the  second  cutter  to  leave  no  record, 
but  the  blank  to  be  filled  by  the  reasonable  supposition  of  her  being 
swamped  by  the  sea ;  and  the  whale-boat  to  be  saved  only  by  the  suc- 
cessful US3  of  a  drag  or  sea-anchor,  and  the  incessant  baling  by  almost 
exhausted  men. 


i 


"tii: 


i;ii:l 


I   i^  i 


!  J    in   ■ 

li 


■A     1 


nil    I 
ilflll 


•/.   ^ 


/. 


STEliUINlJ    iJV    THK   SUN    AND    MOON. 


TIIK    \VIIALi:-IJt»AT. 


405 


Tlie  ;'<»iii!se  (•!'  tho  party  in  this  boat  will  he  lirst  trai-ed.  I'^iigiiieer 
Mt'lvillo  was  ill  comiiiaiul,  Imt  it'liud  on  the  iirol't'ssional  ability  of 
Lieutenant  Danenhowei-,  still  on  the  siek  list.  'I'lie  poekct  prismatic 
(;omi)as8,  usel'ul  on  shore  where  it  eould  be  levelled  and  the  needle  come 
t(»  rest,  was  now  iimivailable.  Steering  was  by  the  sun  or  the  nioou. 
Lieutenant  Danenhower  carried  the  watch  and  chart,  and  could  shape 
the  course  ot"  tlu;  boat  by  the  bearings  of  the  sun  at  this  ('(luinoctial 
period.  September  15,  one  of  the  eastern  mouths  of  the  l^eiia  was 
entered,  and,  by  the  assistance  of  a  'rungus  pilot,  the  party  i)iislied 
up  the  river,  and  (»ii  the  2<'»tli  reached  a  small  village,  in  which 
lived  a  Siberian  exile,  Kopelloff,  who  proved  very  useful  in  oi»eiiiiig 
the  way  to  intercourse  by  teaching  the  Lieutenant  ilussian  phrases, 
'i'hey  were  detained  at  this  place  waiting  for  tlie  growth  of  the  ice  for 
sledding,  and  while  another  liussian  exile,  Koosinah  Gorrymahoft;  with 
the  chief  of  the  village,  went  forward  to  IJulun  to  inform  the  Russian 
authorities  of  their  arrivaL 

On  the  17th  of  October,  Danenliower  began  his  search  with  a  dog 
team,  to  ex])lore  the  coasts  for  the  missing  l)oats,  but  was  unable, 
from  the  condition  of  the  ice,  to  proceed  far  in  any  direction,  and 
returned  without  results.  The  Avide  river,  or  rather  bay,  which  sep- 
arated (Temovialocke  from  the  main  land,  w^as  sometimes  covered  with 
young  ice,  too  thick  for  the  passage  of  boats,  and  too  thin  for  the 
passage  of  sledges,  and  at  times  was  filled  with  floating  masses  of  old 
ice :  while  their  ignorance  of  the  language  left  them  unable  to  exi)ress 
their  wants,  or  to  discover  the  resources  ot  the  MCinity  in  respect  to 
reindeer  or  dog  teams. 

On  the  29th  the  two  messengers  returned,  bringing  the  news  that 
on  their  way  back  they  had  met  natives  with  deer-sleds,  wdio  had  Nin- 
deiiiann  and  Noros,  of  DeLong's  party,  conducting  them  to  Bulun. 
The  two  seamen  had  written  a  note,  stating  that  the  captain's  party 
were  starving,  and  needed  immediate  assistance.  Koosinah  communi- 
cated this  note  to  Engineer  Melville,  Avho  immediately  started  with  a 
native  and  dog  team,  to  find  the  men,  learn  the  position  of  the  Cai> 


I     I 

i 


406 


AiVlERICAN  EXPLORATIONS   IN  THE  ICK   ZONES. 


'I  t .' ' 


f'l   If  ■  ■ 


Mi   i 


tain's  party,  luul  carry  food  to  them.  Dnneiihowor  was  ordered  to  t;ike 
charge  of  the  party,  and  get  them  as  soon  as  possible  to  Uiiliin. 
November  1,  the  liulun  commandant  brought  to  Jiim  a  good  supply  tif 
bread,  (ieer-meat,  and  tea,  and  a  document  aihlressed  by  Noros  jiiid 
Nindemann  to  the  American  minister  at  St.  Petersburg;  this  the 
Lieutenant  forwarded  by  Seaman  Bartlett  to  Melville,  and  as  soon  as 
possible  himself  started  forward,  overtaking  Melville  at  the  first  di  tr 
station.  He  received  from  him  orders  to  go  forward  to  Yakutsk, 
which  he  reached  December  17,  1881,  having  travelled  by  deer-sled 
nine  hundred  versts  (six  hundred  miles)  to  Verchoiansk,  and  thence, 
by  means  of  deer,  oxen,  and  horses,  the  remaining  nine  liundred  and 
sixtv  versts. 

At  Yakutsk  Melville  received  the  first  dispatch  from  the  Secretary 
of  the  Navy,  ordering  him  to  send  the  sick  and  frozen  to  a  milder 
climate ;  Lieutenant  Danenhower's  party  went  forward,  therefore,  to 
Irkoutsk.  Here,  being  advised  by  the  Russian  oculist  th^it  his  right 
eye  would  be  well  in  a  few  days,  he  telegraphed  to  the  Department, 
through  the  American  Legation  at  St.  Petersburg,  asking  permission 
to  hire  a  steamer,  and  search  for  Lieutenant  Chipp's  party  during  the 
spring  and  summer;  also  for  two  line  officers  to  assist.  He  re- 
ceived a  reph'  through  the  Legation  that  two  officers  would  be  sent. 
The  entire  party  of  men  of  which  he  had  charge  volunteered  to  remain 
for  the  search,  six  of  them  being  in  excellent  condition ;  February  5, 
however,  he  received  further  orders  from  the  Navy  Department  that, 
owing  to  his  condition  of  health,  the  order  to  remain  and  search  for 
survivors  of  the  "  Jeannette"  was  revoked.  The  oculist  allowing  him 
to  start  on  the  13th  of  March,  the  Lieutenant  went  forward  Avith  his 
men,  except  Seaman  Noros,  whom  he  had  been  ordered  b}"^  a  subse- 
quent telegram  to  permit  to  accompany  Mr.  J.  P.  Jackson,  a  special 
messenger  sent  out  by  Mr.  Bennett  to  renew  search  on  the  Lena  delta. 

March  17,  Lieutenant  Danenhower  received  at  Nischnendinsk,  a 
telegram  from  Lieutenant  G.  B.  Harber,  U.  S.  N.,  who  had  been  sent 
out  by  the  Navy  Department  with  Master  W.  H.  Schuetze,  and  after 
full  conference  with  him,  turned  over  to  him  in  writing,  all  the  ])rin- 
cipr.l  facts  and  details  concerning  the  missing  parties ;  also  the  chron- 


LAST   ENTUIES   IN   DkLONO'.S  .Tf     ..NAL. 


407 


[creel  to  t;ike 
le  to  l)uluu. 

od  8U1)1)1_V  of 

y  NovoH  it  11(1 
rg;   this   the 
d  as  soon  as 
he  first  ihvv 
to    Yakutsk, 
by  deer-sled 
:,  and  thence, 
hundred  and 


oineter,  sextant,  and  other  instrnnients.  Lieutenant  Ilarher  ohtained 
permission  from  the  Secretary  to  retain  the  enlisted  liealthy  nuMi  to 
assist  him  in  his  search,  and  on  tlie  '2'kl  Daneniiower  came  forward  to 
St.  l*etersl)urg  which  he  reached  May  1,  having  been  detained  on  the 
road  by  a  light  attack  of  small-|»ox  in  the  case  of  Tong  Sing.  With 
Mr.  Newcomb,  Cole,  and  the  Chinese,  he  arrived  in  New  York  City, 
•lune  1.  Cole  was  already  mentally  affected,  and  early  became  an  in- 
mate of  the  Government  Asylum  for  the  insane  in  Washington,  where 
he  still  remains.  The  rest  of  the  whale-boat  crew,  except  the  Indian, 
Anegnin.  who  died  of  small-pox  in  Russia,  and  Nindemann  and  Noros 
of  Cai)tain  DeLong's  party,  arrived  in  the  United  States  previous  to  the 
12th  of  February,  1882. 


DeLONG  S    BOAT. 

The  sad  history  which  follows  is  derived  from  tlie  records  of  the 
Commander  up  to  his  last  feeble  entries  of  October  80,  and  from  the 
roi)orts  of  Engineer  Melville  and  Lieutenant  Danenhower,  their  testi- 
mony before  the  Naval  Court  of  Inquiry,  and  that  of  the  seamen  Nin- 
demann, Noros,  and  Bartlett ;  the  first  two  of  these  three  being  the 
only  ones  saved  from  this  boat. 

The  Captain's  brief  journals  of  September,  1881,  record:  "At  9  p.m. 
Sept.  12,  lost  sight  of  whale-boat  ahead;  at  10  p.m.  lost  sight  of 
second  cutter  astern ;  wind  freshening  to  a  gale.  Step  of  mast  carried 
away  ;  lowered  sail  and  rode  to  sea  anchor ;  very  heavy  sea.,  and  hard 
s(iualls.     Barometer  falling  rapidly. 

"13th,  very  heavy  northeast  gale.  ...  At  8  p.m.  set  a  jury  sail  made 
of  a  sled  cover,  and  kept  the  boat  away  to  the  westward  before  the  sea ; 
—  17th,  grounded  at  a  few  hundred  yards,  lauded  at  8  p.m.  ;  dark  and 
snow  storm,  but  Collins  had  a  good  fire  going;  at  10,20  had  landed 
cv(>rything,  except  boat  oars,  mast,  sled,  and  alcohol  breakers  ;  —  18tli, 
had  fires  going  all  the  time  to  dry  our  clothes,  we  must  look  our  situa- 
tion in  the  face,  and  prepare  to  walk  to  a  settlement. 

"September  19,  ordered  preparations  to  be  made  for  leaving  this 
place,  and  as  a  beginning,  all  sleeping  bags  are  to  be  left  behind.  Left 
in  instrument  box  a  record  portions  of  which  read  thus :  — 


M, 


I  1 


I? 


if  I 


408 


AMKIMCAN    KXPI.ORATIONS    TN    THK    UK   /ONKS. 


"  I-i:na  Dki.ta,  Sept.  10,  18S1. 
"  Laiidt'il  hert!  on  the  evcMiing  of  the  ITlIi,  and  will  proceed  thin 
ut'tcrnoon  to  try  und  rciiidi,  willi  (iod's  liclp,  a  scttleniunt,  thu  ntiiicst 
of  wliicli  I  bolit'vc  Is  iMni'ly-liv(»  inilt's  distant.  We  ure  nil  well,  liiiv(. 
four  days'  provisions,  arms  and  anmuinition,  and  arc  carrying  uiili  us 
only  slii[>'s  books  and  papers,  with  blankrts,  tents,  and  some  mediciiKs, 
tlicrcforc,  our  clianci's  of  gettiny;  tiironj^li  seem  good.  .  .  .  At  'J.!.') 
went  alicad,  and  at  4.-'50  stoj)i)ed  and  camjjed.  J^oads  too  heavy  ^ 
nu'ii  used  up —  l^'c  groaning  and  comi)laining,  Erickson,  Boyd,  and 
Sam,  hobbling,  'i'lncc  rests  t)f  lifteen  minutes  each  of  no  use.  Hoad 
bad.  Iti'eaking  through  thin  crust ;  oecasionally  up  to  the  kiu'cs. 
Sent  N'indi'niann  back  with  Alexai  and    Dressier  to  dej)osit  log-books. 

.  .  .  lively  one  of  us  seems  to  have  l(»st  all  feeling  in  his  toes,  and 
8onu'  (d'  us  even  halfway  up  the  feet.  That  terrible  week  in  the  hoat 
lias  (h)ne  us  great  injury;  oi)ene(l  our  last  can  of  pennniean,  and  so  cut 
it  that  it  must  sulliee  for  four  days'  food,  then  Ave  are  at  the  end  of  our 
provisions  and  must  eat  the  dog  (the  last  of  the  forty)  unless  Provi- 
dence sends  something  in  our  way.     When  the  dog  is  eaten ?    I 

Avas  much  impressed  and  derive  great  encouragement  from  an  accident  of 
last  Sunday.  Our  ]iible  got  soaking  wet,  and  I  had  to  read  the  Epistle 
and  (iospel  from  my  prayer-book.  According  to  my  rough  calculation 
it  must  have  been  the  fifteenth  Sunday  after  Trinity,  and  the  Gosjicl 
contained  some  promises  which  seemed  peculiarly  adapted  to  our  con- 
dition.    (The  passage  is  in  Matthew  v.  24). 

'' Sei)ttnnber  21,  at  8.80  came  to  a  bend  in  the  river  making  south, 
and  to  our  surprise  two  huts,  one  seemingly  new.  At  9  p.m.  a  knock 
outside  the  hut  was  heard  and  Alexai  said,  'Captain,  we  have  got  two 
reindeer,'  and  in  he  came  bearing  a  hind  quarter  of  meat.  September 
24,  commenced  preparations  for  departure  from  the  hut  at  seven  o'clock. 

.  .  .  At  10  p.  :m.  made  a  rough  bed  of  a  few  logs !  wrapped  our  blankets 
around  us  and  sought  a  sleep  that  did  not  come ;  27th,  made  tea  at 
daylight,  and  at  5.05  had  our  breakfast  —  four-fourteenths  of  a  pound  of 
pemmican,  ...  At  9.45  fiVfe  men  arrived  in  camp,  bringing  a  fine  buck. 
Saved  again  ! !  September  30,  one  hundred  and  tenth  day  from  leaving 
the  ship,  Erickson  is  no  better,  and  it  is  a  foregone  conclusion  that  he 


;s. 

opt.   10,   IHSI. 

proctMMl   (Ills 
it,  tlu.'   iit'aicst 

nil    well.   llilVl) 

ryiiig  with  us 
tuu'  nuMliciiit's, 

...  At  ^l.') 
i  too  lieuvy  -- 
oil,  Boyd,  and 
no  use.  Umid 
to  tlio  kiicL'S. 
losit  log-lxxiks. 
11  his  toi'S,  and 
'(d\  in  the  boat 
can,  and  so  cut 
,  the  end  ol"  oui' 
')  unless  Pi'ovi- 

eaten V    I 

n  an  accid(>iit(>f 
ead  the  Epislle 
iigh  calculation 
iind  the  Gosjicl 

ed.  to  our  con- 

niaking  south, 
|9  r.  M.  a  knock 
|e  have  got  two 
it.     Septeiuher 

seven  o'clock. 
id  our  blankets 
li,  made  tea  at 
s  of  a  pound  of 
Ing  a  fine  buck. 
ly  from  leaving 

dusion  that  he 


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410 


AT^TEKICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


^  I 


nU^:. 


h 


i-  iim 


must  lose  four  of  the  toes  of  is  right  foot,  and  one  of  his  left.  The 
doctor  commenced  slicing  away  the  flesh  after  breakfast,  fortuiiiitcly 
without  pain  to  the  patient,  for  the  forward  part  of  the  foot  is  (Iciul : 
but  it  wa.i  a  heart-rending  sight  to  me,  tiie  cutting  away  of  bones  iuul 
Hesh  of  a  man  whom  I  hoped  to  return  sound  and  whole  to  his  friends. 
October  1,  the  doctor  resumed  the  cutting  of  poor  Erickson's  toes  tins 
nwrning,  only  one  toe  left  now.  And  where  are  we  ?  I  think  at  (he 
beginning  of  the  Lena  River  at  last.  My  chart  is  simply  useless.  Left 
a  record  in  the  hut  that  we  are  proceeding  to  cross  to  the  west  side  to 
reach  some  settlement  on  the  l^ena  River.  October  3,  nothing  romains 
but  the  dog.  I  th  ^refore  ordered  him  Iiilled  and  dressed  by  Iverson, 
and  soon  after  a  kind  of  stew  made  of  such  parts  as  could  not  be  carried, 
of  which  everybody,  except  the  doctor  and  myself,  eagerly  partook,  in 
us  it  was  a  nauseating  mess.  .  .  .  Erickson  soon  became  delirious,  and 
his  talking  was  a  horrible  aecom])animent  to  the  wretchedness  of  onr 
surroundings.  During  the  night  got  his  gloves  oft";  his  hands  were 
fro/eii.  At  8  a.m.  got  Erickson  (<|uite  unconscious)  and  lashed  on  the 
slod  under  the  cover  of  a  hut.  made  a  fire  and  got  warm.  .  .  .  Hall'  a 
])oun(l  of  dog  was  fried  for  each  one,  and  a  cup  of  tea  given,  and  that 
constituted  our  day's  food.  At  8.45  A.M.,  our  messmate,  Eriekson, 
dc'partcd  this  life.  October  6,  as  to  burying  him  I  cai  not  dio'  a 
grave,  the  ground  is  frozen,  and  1  have  nothing  to  dig  with.  Tlu'rc 
is  nothing  to  do  but  to  l)ury  him  in  the  river.  Sewed  h'm  u|)  in 
the  flaps  of  the  tent,  and  covered  him  with  my  flag.  Got  tea  ready, 
and  with  one-half  ounce  alcohol,  we  will  try  to  make  out  to  bury  him. 
But  we  are  all  so  weak  that  I  <lo  not  see  how  we  are  going  to  move. 

'At  12,40  P.M.  read  tlie  burial  service,  and  carried  our  departed 
slii})mate's  body  down  to  the  river,  where,  a  hole  having  been  cut  in 
the  ice,  he  was  buried  ;  three  volleys  from  our  two  Remingtons  being 
fired  ovim-  him  as  a  funeral  honor. 

A  board  was  prepan^d  with  tliis  cut  on  it :  — 


In  Momoiy, 

n.    IT.    KUKMvSON, 

Oct.  C.th.  1SS1. 
U.  S.  S.  Jcannette. 


DeLONG  a   DEATH. 


411 


And  this  will  he  stuck  in  the  rivor  bank  abreast  his  cjrave.  His  eloth- 
iiiti  was  divided  up  amonjjf  his  messmates.  Iverson  has  his  Bible  and 
a  look  of  liis  hair.  Kaacik  has  a  lock  of  his  hair.  .  .  .  Supper,  5  i'.  M., 
liiiir  pound  dog  meat  and  tea.  October  0,  sent  Nindemann  and  Noros 
alii'iul  for  relief;  they  carry  tluur  blaidcets,  one  rille,  forty  pounds 
aiiuiuinition,  two  ounct  s  alcohol.  .  .  .  Under  way  ajjjaiu  at  lO.JU),  had 
I'or  dinner  one  ounce  ot  alcohol.  Alexai  shot  three  ptarmigan.  Fin<l 
(iiiioe,  liiy  our  heads  on  it  and  go  to  slec]). 

"•loth,  eat  deer-skin  scraps.  .  .  .  Ahead  again  till  eleven.  yVt  thn^e 
jialtcd,  used  vn).  Crawled  into  a  hole  on  the  bank.  Nothing  for  sui)per, 
except  a  spoonful  of  glycerine.  17th,  Alexai  died,  covered  him  with 
ensign,  and  laid  him  in  a  crib.  21st,  one  hundred  and  thirty-first  day, 
Kiiack  was  found  dead  at  midnight.  Too  weak  to  carry  the  bodies  out 
on  the  ice  ;  the  doctor,  Collins,  and  I  carried  them  around  the  conun- 
ont  of  sight.  Then  my  eye  closed  up.  Sunday,  October  !2Ji,  one  hun- 
(lii'd  and  thirty-third  (hiy  —  everybody  pretty  weak — slept  or  rested 
all  day,  then  managed  to  get  enough  wood  in  before  dark.  Read  part 
of  divine  service.     Suffering  in  our  feet.     No  foot  gear. 

''  Monday,  Oct.  24,  one  hundred  and  thirty-fourth  day.  A  hard 
iii'^lit. 

'^  Tuesday,  Oct.  25,  one  hundred  and  thirty-hfth  day.    No  record. 

"Wednesday,  Oct.  20, one  hundred  and  thirty-sixth  day.    No  nMord. 

"Thursday,  Oct.  27,  one  hundred  and  thirty-seventh  day.  Iver- 
s(in  broke  down. 

"  Friday,  Oct.  28,  one  hundred  and  thirty-eighth  day.  Iverson  died 
(hiring  early  morning. 

"Siiturday,  Oct.  2'.),  one  hundred  and  thirty-ninth  day.  Dressier 
ilied  (luring  the  night. 

"Sunday,  Oct.  80,  one  hundred  and  fortieth  day.  Boyd  and  (iurtz 
(lied  during  the  night.     Mr.  Collins  dying." 

Tlie  preceding  brief  extracts  from  this  saddest  of  all  journals  t(dl 
the  story  of  the  first  cutter,  excejjting  that  of  the  two  saved,  Ninde- 
mann and  Noros.  The  ('aptain,  the  Surgeon,  and  the  last  one  of  the 
erew  must  have  perished  almost  immediately  after  the;  last  one  of  their 
(ionu'ades. 


412 


AMERICAN    EXPLORATIONS    IN    THE    ICK    ZONES. 


'■    l\.M 


$m 


mm'- 


!  y^ 


!:!■ 


' '  '  i ' 


sV      f 


THE  JOURNEY  OF  NINDEMANN  AND  NOROS. 

According  to  tlie  testimony  of  Seaman  Nindemann,  DeLong,  on  th,. 
9tli  of  October,  had  called  him  aside  and  said  to  him:  "I  think  you 
liave  to  go  only  about  twelve  miles  to  a  settlement  called  Ku-iu;irk- 
sinka,  and  you  and  Noros  can  make  it  in  tinee  days,  or  at  the  loni^csi, 
four.  Do  the  best  you  can;  if  you  tind  assistance  come  back  ;is  <iiii(k 
as  possible  ;  and  if  you  do  not,  you  are  as  well  off  as  we  are."' 

The  two  men  started  oft'  with  three  cheers  from  their  comrades,  ;in(l 
a  copy  of  the  cai^tain's  chart,  by  which  he  worked.  On  their  iirst  day 
they  killed  one  ptarmigan  ;  on  the  second,  failing  u)  secure  a  deer  llu'y 
made  a  supper  on  a  boot  sole  aoaked  in  water  and  burned  to  a  cnist, 
with  s(nne  Arctic  willow  tea ;  on  the  morning  of  the  eleventh,  tlioy 
again  started  on  their  way  South,  and  at  12  M.  stepped  to  make  use  nf 
some  of  the  alcohol,  but  on  finding  that  the  bottle  in  their  [xxkct 
had  been  broken,  dined  on  another  boot  sole  with  Arctic  willow  tea,  aiid 
supped  upon  some  deer  bones  that  were  burned  in  a  hut.  On  the  I'JtIi 
they  Avere  somewhat  more  fortunate,  for  on  gathering  some  drift-wood, 
Noros  looking  into  the  hole  beneath  it  drew  out  two  tishes,  andNindi'- 
mann  caught  a  lennning.  The  day  following,  having  nothing  to  oat,  a 
piece  of  seal-skin  pants  was  cut  off,  soaked  in  water  and  burned  to  a 
crust,  and  on  like  food  they  subsisted  initi!  the  20th,  when  they  found 
in  a  kayak  near  another  hut,  fishes  enough  to  keep  them  alive  for  some 
days  ;  they  were  becoming  very  weak  by  dysentery. 

On  the  22d,  looking  through  the  crack  of  the  hut  in  which  they 
■were  resting,  they  saw  a  native  who,  on  the  evening  of  the  same  day. 
returned  with  others,  and  putting  the  two  men  on  deer  sleighs,  drove 
wdth  them  until  midnight  to  their  tents,  into  which  they  took  the  two 
seamen  and  fed  them.  The  natives,  after  securing  a  number  of  deer, 
carried  the  two  further  forward,  and,  after  learning  from  them,  by  the 
assistance  of  a  tall  Russian,  that  they  wisiied  to  be  carried  to  liuluii, 
the  most  northern  Russian  settlement  in  Siberia,  landed  them  at  that 
place  on  the  29th.  Here  Noi'os  wrote,  at  Nintlemann's  dictation,  a 
letter  to  the  American  minister  at  St.  Petersburg,  informing  him  of  the 
condition  of  Del^ong  and  his  party.     November  3,  the  two  men  heard 


ES. 


S. 


THio  L(k;-h(>oks  found. 


413 


3eL()ng,  on  the 
;  "  I  think  you 
lallecl  Ku-ni;iik- 
■  at  the  h)nL;fst, 
:>  back  US  (inick 
are.' 

r  coiuvacUis.  iind 
11  theiv  lirst  (hiy 
;ui'e  a  (leer  Ihcy 
L'ued  to  a  (-nist. 
eleventh,  tlioy 
to  make  use  of 
in  their  pocket 
1  willow  tea,  and 
t.     On  the  1-Jth 
>ome  drift-wood, 
shes,  andNinde- 
othing  to  oat,  a 
[nd  burned  to  a 
hen  they  found 
11  alive  for  some 


the  door  of  their  hut  in  Rulun  open,  and  the  voice  of  Engineer  Melville, 
wlio  exelainied,  "Noros,  are  you  alive?"  They  gave  him  all  the  details 
from  the  time  they  had  landed.  The  engineer  nuide  himself  a  chart  on 
whitdi  were  marked  the  huts  they  had  found  and  their  route  as  v/ell  as 
they  could  tell  it,  in  order  for  his  inmiediate  arrangements  to  search  for 
DiLong  and  his  party.  The  telegram  which  the  men  had  intended  to  be 
sent  to  the  American  Minister  had  been  addressed  by  the  commandant 
lit  liulun  to  Engineer  Melville,  as  to  one  far  nearer  than  St.  Petersburg. 
Both  the  seamen  were  now  very  sick  from  exhaustion  and  dysentery 
caused  by  eating  decayed  iish. 


Melville's  search. 

JMigineer  Melville  immediately  forwarded  three  telegrams :  one  to 
the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  a  second  to  the  U.  S.  Minister  at  St. 
Petersburg,  and  the  third  to  Mr.  J.  G.  Bennett  at  Paris.  The  first 
tele;4ram,  sent  by  Government  couriers  the  long  journey  to  Irkutsk, 
\vas  received  there  by  American  Charge  Hoffmann  December  22,  and 
by  Secretary  Hunt  at  Washington  the  day  following.  The  Secretary 
immediately  rei)lied  as  follows :  — 

"Onut  no  effort.  Spare  no  expense  in  securing  safety  of  men  in 
second  cutter.  Let  the  sick  and  the  frozen  of  those  already  rescued 
have  e\ory  attention,  and  as  soon  as  practicable  have  them  transferred 
to  .iiilder  climate.     Department  will  supply  necessary  funds." 

The  V.  S.  Charg<3  at  St.  Petersburg  had  also  telegraphed  to  jMe'\- 
vill(!  that  his  (lis])atc'i  to  the  Navy  Department  had  been  forwarded. 

After  sending  the  dispatch,  jMelville  pushed  his  search  to  the 
uortliern  extremity  of  the  Lena  Delta.  Leaving  Burulak  November 
").  witii  two  dog  teams,  two  natives,  and  food  for  ten  days,  he  visited 
some  of  the  huts  spoken  of  by  Nindemann  and  Noros,  and  on  re- 
ceiving from  some  native  hunters  some  of  the  records  left  by  Cap- 
tain DeLong,  and,  learning  from  these  papers  where  he  had  left 
the  log-books,  chronometers,  and  other  abandoned  articles,  found 
tlie  cache  which  was  marked  by  a  tall  flag-staff  on  the  ocean  shore, 
and  secured  the  logs    ind    other    things.     A    further    diligent  search 


1 

i 

1 

|; 

B  : '? 

I 

1 

IB 

1 

1      :: 

lip 

In  f  I 

:  I  r  '; 


lill 

i'    1  V    ■■   ■■   *     "  ■'' 


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r 


)!' 


1^' 


4(4 


AMtKICAN  EXPLOilATIONS  IN  THE  ICE  ZONES. 


of  three  weeks,  made  with  great  suffering  and  exposure,  revealed, 
however,  nothing  of  the  missing  party;  nor  had  the  natives  Jieard 
of  them  at  any  of  their  settlements.  Nindemann  had  expressed  liis 
conviction  that  all  must  have  perished ;  it  was  now  matter  of  iiuiniul 
but  irresistible  conclusions.  Melville  could  hope  to  do  no  mon-  until 
the  season  opened  and  until  full  arrangements  could  be  made  toi'  the 
necessary  supplies,  and  for  the  orders  to  subordinates  which  should  be 
issued  by  the  Russian  authorities.  This  could  not  be  accomplished  at 
Bulun.     He  went  forward  to  Yakutsk,  arriving  there  December  m(). 

January  10,  1882,  he  sent  forward  the  logs  and  papers  in  chai(;e  of 
Lieutenant  Danenhower,  and  pushed  his  preparations  for  the  renewed 
search  under  the  orders  from  the  Navy  Department  now  received. 

March  16,  accompanied  by  Seamen  Nindemann  and  Bartlett.  tlic 
latter  of  whom  had  picked  up  some  Russian,  he  found  the  hut  where 
DeLong  and  his  comrades  had  slept  before  crossing  the  river;  and  on 
the  23d  found  not  the  living  but 


THE  DEAD   TEN. 

Four  poles  lashed  togetlier  and  projecting  out  two  feet  from  the  snow- 
drift, pointed  to  their  resting-place.  The  muzzle  of  a  Remington  rille 
also  stood  above  the  snow  bank  eight  inches,  its  strap  hitched  over  the 
poles.  A  few  hundred  yards  further  were  the  three  bodies  of  Captain 
DeLong,  Surgeon  Ambler,  and  Ah  Sam,  the  Chinese  cook.  Alongside 
of  DeLong  was  his  note -book  with  the  last  feebly  written  lines  whieli 
have  been  cited  ;  under  the  poles  were  the  books  and  records  with 
which  the  conscientious  care  of  the  commander  had  too  heavily 
loaded  himself  and  party.  Alexai's  body  was  searched  for  in  vain ; 
De Long's  Journal  showed  that  he  died  in  the  flat  boat.  It  is  jirobahle 
that  the  remains  of  the  native  were  borne  by  the  flood  into  the  Lena. 
Erickson,  as  has  been  stated,  had  been  buried  by  DeLong  in  the  river. 
The  natives  with  Melville  were  at  first  afraid  to  break  the  bodies 
out  of  the  snow  bank ;  they  were  frozen  to  the  ground,  and  it  re(|uired 
prying  with  sticks  of  wood  to  get  them  up.  The  Captain's  left  arm 
had  been  seen  sticking  up  out  of  the  suow. 


ss. 


THE  CROSS. 


415 


sure,  revealed, 
natives  Ih-lihI 
expressed  las 
,tter  of  ijainl'ul 
no  moiv  until 
e  made  tor  the 
'liicli  should  be 
.ccomplishcd  at 
3eembei"  oO. 
3rs  in  charge  of 
or  the  renewed 
■  received, 
d  Bartlett.  the 
the  hut  where 
e  river;  and  on 


from  the  snow- 
hemingtou  ritle 
itched  over  the 
dies  of  Captain 
ok.     Alongside 
ten  lines  which 
d  records  with 
d    too    heavily 
3d  for  in  vain ; 
It  is  probable 
1  into  the  Lena, 
ig  in  the  river, 
reak  the  bodies 
and  it  reipiired 
ntain's  left  arm 


Nindemann,  with  Bartlett,  under  Melville's  direction  took  everything 
from  the  bodies,  tying  up  each  parcel  separately  in  handkerchiefs  found 
upou  them,  the  only  exception  to  the  bringing  away  of  which  for  their 
frieudsv  being  a  bronze  crucifix  found  upon  the  person  of  Mr.  Collins, 
\vliic;h,  by  Melville's  orders,  was  replaced  in  the  bosom  of  his  shirt,  to 
be  buried  with  him.     After  much  further  digging  in  the    snow,  and 


IN    MEMORY 

OF  12  OF 

THE 

OFFICERS  AND 

MEN 

OF  

THE   ARCTIC   STEAMER    "JEANNETTE," 

WHO   DIED  OF  STARVATION 
IN   THE   LENA   DELTA,  OCTOBER,    1881. 


LIEUTENANT 
G.  W.   DeLONG. 

Dr.  J.  M.  AMRlER. 

J.  J.  COLLINS. 

W.  LEE. 

A.  GORTZ. 

A.  DRESSLER. 

H.  H.  ERICKSON. 

G.  W.  BOYD. 

N.  IVERSON. 

H.  H.  KAACK. 

ALEXAI. 

AH  SAM. 


finding  a  number  of  other  small  articles,  Melville  had  all  the  bodies 
carried  over  the  mountain  to  the  southward  of  Mat-Vai,  where,  on  a 
high  bluff,  a  tomb  had  been  prepared,  and  a  box  to  hold  the  bodies. 
They  were  arranged  side  by  side,  DeLong,  Ambler,  Collins,  and  the 
others  in  regular  rotation,  as  their  names  were  cut  on  a  vertical  portion 
of  a  cross  placed  over  the  tomb. 

The  tomb  itself  was  covered  with  seven-inch  plank  its  whole 
length,  and  the  cross  shored  with  diagonal  braces  to  the  edge  of  the 
box,  a  regular  pyramid  being  built  over  the  tomb,  which  was  covered 


1 

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nr> 


A.MIOllKJAN    KXI'LOUATIOXS    IN    Till-:    IHK    /OXKS. 


with  r(>u<vh  stones,  IVoin  one  liiuidrtMl  and  lil'ty  to  two  liimdred  ikuhhIs 
at  (lie  basi!,  with  small  pieces  at  tli(!  top  and  sides.  'Die  cross  arm  was 
hoisted  into  its  place,  and  keyed  by  Nindenuinn  with  a  lari;(\  woudin 
key  to  kee])  it  in  piai-e.  'V\iv  cross  was  twenty-two  i(;ot  iiij^'h,  the  arm 
luclve  feet  in  length.  Upon  it  was  the  inscription  shown  on  the  puj. 
ceding  piige. 

Anangemeiits  were  snUsecpiMitly  imide  at  Yakntsk  to  have  iln; 
entire  cairn  covered  with  a  deep  layer  oi"  earth,  to  prevent  the  ]«<>s\. 
hility  ol"  the  snn  thawing  the.  bodies  therein,  (ieneral  'rcdiei'iiaicri'  also 
cansed  a  IJussian  inscu'iption  to  be  j)ri>pared,  to  bt;  j»laced  on  the  idinli, 
and  directed  that  every  care  shonld  be  taken  to  i»reserve  the  tomb  ami 
the  monument  in  good  condition.  ''Standing  as  they  do  on  an  emi- 
nence, they  are  cons|ticnous  objects,  and  may  be  seen  at  :i  distance  ef 
twenty  miles.""     {Mr.  Xi'/rruinO'x  jVitrratiri'.') 


THE   SEAUCFl    FOR   OHIl'P. 

During  the  lirst  week  of  A])ril,  Engineer  Melville's  party,  h.wiurr 
completed  the  burial  of  the  bodies,  were  put  uj)oii  the  scar(;li  for  the 
second  cutter,  under  the  command  of  Lieutenant  Chipp.  Nindcniiinn 
and  liartlett  were  sent  to  Cape  Barkin,  from  whicli  point  one  of  tliem 
examined  the  sea-coast  of  the  Delta  southward  as  far  as  Jamavaelocli. 
working  also  into  the  mouths  of  the  rivers;  the  other  followed  ilic 
north  coast  of  Siberia  to  the  river  Osoktok,  along  which  DeLong  aii'l 
his  party  came.  Their  ordeis  were  excjcuted  in  the  most  thorou^li 
manner,  but  no  trace  of  the  second  cutter  was  found.  The  lirst  cutter 
was  Inund  where  she  had  l)cen  abandoned  in  the  ice  of  the  ocean,  lilleil 
with  wat"r,  frozen  in,  and  l)adly  stove. 

Melville  searched  the  coast  line  west  to  the  deserted  village  ef 
Chancer,  thence  across  the  jjeninsula.  down  the  river  Alanack  to  ilie 
ocean:  along  the  coast,  in  and  out  of  all  the  bays  to  the  northwest 
point  of  the  Delta,  and  thence  along  the  north  coast;  completing  llu! 
coast -wise  search  for  the  second  cutter,  by  a  still  further  search  to  the 
river  .lana. 


idred  ]>umiils 
ii'DSS  anil  was 

lij^li,  the  iiriii 
11  (til  llif  |iie- 


to  liavt'  till! 
'lit  tlie  |iii>-,i. 
lu'i'iiaicri'  alsd 
on  tiic  tniiil), 
the  tuiiil)  ami 
lo  on  an  rmi- 
a   (listaiifc  (if 


party,  liavinif 
oarcli  i'or  tlic 
NiiultMiiaiiii 
:  oiK^  of  t lii'iii 
Janiavat'lncli. 

I'ollowt'il    llif 

Dt'Loiii;'  ail'! 
ost  tli()r(iii;j,'li 
lie  first  cutter 
0  ocean,  lillcil 


0(1  villau,'!'  Ill' 
anack  to  tlii> 
lif!  nortir.vcst 
tinpletiiiij;  tlic 
sciU'cli  to  the 


.1  *'■ 


u 


■  ^'■: 


1 11 
i  J 


418 


amki:i(;an  kxim.ouations  in  thk  h:;K  zones. 


Tlu'  slt'ilgiii*;  season  was  now  at  an  vnd.  lie  was  (letaini'<l  (ui  i||,. 
>iountains  by  the  melting  of  the  snows,  but  reached  Yakntsk  .liin,.  s. 
Hearin<jf  hero  that  Lieutenant  Ilarber  had  found  it  inij)osslble  to  «  hai- 
ter  at  fair  rates  the  expected  steamer  for  the  Lena,  and  was  niiikini; 
<)lh(M'  pn  [)aralions  for  his  sunnuer  search,  but  prevented  from  nurtino 
him,  Mi'Iville  sent  Hartlett  to  report  for  'uty  ufMh'r  the  Licutciiiint, 
and  sent  with  lum  a  track  chart  of  the  search  already  made  (in  iIk. 
Delta.  From  Irkutsk  Melville  bey;an  his  lionie  journey  with  Nindo- 
niaiui  and  Noros,  arriving  in  Now  York  Sei)tomber  13,  1882. 


FTTHTllKIl   SKAROir. 

Lieutenant  Ilarbei  a. id  Ivieutenunt  Schnetzo  had  arrived  in  St. 
retersburg  February  "20.  Here  they  received  special  assistance  trnm 
(loneral  loiiatieiV,  the  Oovernor-Gonoral  of  Siberia,  and  UnittMl  States 
Chargil  lloiVman.  On  arriving  at  Nijni  Ujinsk,  on  the  way  to  Iik'iisk, 
and  meeting  with  Lieutenant  Danonhower's  homo  party,  they  received. 
by  permission  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  as  volunteers  in  the 
further  search  for  Chipp,  Seamen  Leach,  Wilson,  Mansen,  Lauder- 
baek,  and  the  Indian,  Anoguin.  Noros  hid  before  this  gone  back 
with  Mr.  Jackson,  special  agent  sent  out  V.y  Mr.  Bennett  from 
Paris.  ILirber  during  the  month  of  ]May  went  down  the  river  to 
Viska  in  a  ehaitered  steanuM%  but  found  the  vessel, unfit  for  the  oldci't, 
in  view%  and  consequently  secu)-ed  others  by  reconstructing  a  \n\v- 
chaseil  boat  and  building  two  di»ries.  June  11  he  was  ])repare(l  to 
search  the  Delta. 

In  his  rejiort  of  Novend)er  20,  188'^,  Secretary  Chandler  states  (hat 
Ilarber  and  Schuetze  had  ])roseouted  the  search  with  cner/A^  but  had 
not  succeeded  in  getting  any  intelligence  of  Lieutenant  Chip})'"  party. 

I'KEI'AIU-Vrr  TO   BRING    /.'RE  BODIES   HOME. 

The  latest  information  received  from  Russia  nearly  at  he  date  of 
this  writing,  is  furnished  in  the  following  letters — an  unhappy  closing 
of  the  record  of  the  voyage  of  the  '' Jeannette."     It  will  be  seen  from 


HAKUKUS   .lOUHNKY. 


410 


l.it'iilciiiiiit  Iliirhor'rt  lirst  IctU-i'  thiit  no  fond  liojn>s  of  rccoj^nition  of  the 
lost  ont'8  Clin  hv  now  indiilgtMl,  ulthougli  such  hopes  W(;n!  justly  con- 
ceived [)crhii[»s  in  the  l)rcii8ts  of  the  hcrciivcd  by  the  conditions  of  the 
clinuite  anil  the  ciueful  entonibnient  secured  l)y  Knj^ineer  Melville. 


"  liiKiTSK,  SiiiKKi.v,  .Fiiiic  ii;5, 1883. 
"lion.  VV.  E.  C'uANUi.KK,  Secrctat'i/  oftht  Xuri/,    Wiitihint/ton,  I).  (■. 

'•SiK,  —  I  have  the  honor  to  report  as  follows  concerning  the  removal 
of  the  bodies  of  Lieutenant-Coiuniandinjjf  DeLonjjf  and  paity. 

'•'rill!  re(iuisito  pern»iss'ir,n  to  reniovo  those  bodiis  was  not  reiieived 
iU  Yakutsk  until  January  '25,  and  on  the  'JfUh  I  started  north  with  Mr. 
S(;huetze  and  a  (^ossack  inter[)reter.  Before  starting  we  were  distinctly 
iiifornied  that  we  could  have  no  assistance  from  the  Government,  and 
ill  fai-t  throughout  the  journey  to  Mat-Vai  and  return  we  received 
none. 

"We  encountered  many  dilliculties,  but  they  did  in.c  prove  serious; 
luerely  delayed  us  a  few  days. 

"The  natives  were  glad  to  furnish  both  reindeer  and  dogs,  and  for 
their  use  charged  little  more  than  the  Government  rates. 

"In  travelling  four  thousand  versts  (two  thousand  six  hundred  and 
sixty-seven  nules)  with  deer,  but  two  animals  died,  apparently  from 
exhaustion,  and  these  were  ])aid  for;  no  d(-gs  were  in  any  way  injured. 
I  nuMition  this  to  answer  the  objections  to  the  journey  made  by  the 
authorities  before  the  permission  was  granted. 

"  Wo  reached  Hulun  February  20,  and  Beemoviolach  February  22. 
We  were  detained  here  four  days  by  a  severe  gale,  but  at  its  close  at 
Diice  jtroceeded  to  Mat-Vai,  reaching  it  March  1.  On  tlie  2d  we  went 
ti»  the  tomb,  removed  the  b(Mlies,  rebuilt  the  tomb,  and,  returning  to 
Mat-Vai,  prepared  for  the  return  tri[). 

"  Learning  from  the  telegraphs  of  the  Department,  through  <  ur 
iiiii^istcr  at  St.  Petersburg,  that  the  caskets  now  at  Orenburg  were  not 
to  he  forwarded,  and  being  informed  by  the  Governor  that  the  caskets 
wore  a  necessity,  whether  the  bodies  were  to  be  transported  in  winter 
or  in  summer,  I  made  arrangements  with  the  Government  i)hysiciap 
lor  properly  preserving  the  bodies  in  their  frozen  condition  during  the 


Wil 


;'i  * 


■  .'Uv 


' 


'it 


i 


iii: 


\10 


AMKlllCAN    KvlMiOltATInNH    IN     IMIK    K'l;   /oNHS. 


auiniiicr  ninntlis.  and  Icavini,'  Mr.  Sclnit'l/c  to  scr  llicsc  anaii'rf- 
iiieiils  canicil  out,  1  set  itul  lor  Irlviilsk  to  obtain  materials  Inr  i|„. 
cUHkcts. 

"I  was  told  ill  Yakutsk  that  the  law  rci|iiir('d  sli('cl-lca<l  jni  iIk; 
liiiinn'.  and  licncc  t\|M'(i('d  toj^o  to  K'nssia  for  lliis  material.  However, 
I  I'ouiid  in  this  eity  slieels  of  pure  tin.  and  olitained  |iei'iiiissioii  o|'  ilie 
(i()\enior  to  use  this  material  I'or  the  tem|>orarv  caskets,  the  hodiis  t,, 
he  t  ransrerred  tt»  (he  ones  in  ( )renltnii.;'  oii  our  arrival.  All  neic-^nv 
artieles  were  loiwarded  when  the  river  hioke  U[)  last  March.  As  Sdun 
as  tlu'  road  ojn'iis  in  Novemher,  1  will  luoeecd  home  with  the  IkmIics. 
If  no  unroresoeii  dillicnlties  apiiear,  I  sluudd  reach  Oreiduii;;'  heiwcin 
.lannarv  .">()  and  Fehniaiv  I,  ISSI.  I'lio  bodies  are  much  decayed,  and 
rcco^niiioii  impossible.  * 

*' Helore  l-aisi^n  Hunt  and  party  leit  me,  I  obtained  iVom  .lames 
r>arlletl,  lireman,  a.  description  td"  eat'h  body,  its  position,  dress,  eie,, 
as  it  was  when  last  seen.  This  description  was  found  to  bo  so  exaei 
that  no  dilheulty  or  diuibt  oeciirred  in  their  idenliticatioii,  and  eaeii 
was  carefully  marked  as  it  came  from  the  tomb, 

" 'riiere  will  bi>  some  dillliculty  in  straiii;'h(eninu'  the  limbs  in  eonsc- 
(]uenee  (d'  the  amount  o['  decay  which  occurred  last  summer,  but  IIk' 
sui'U'con  tells  me  it  can  be  done. 

"  \'orv  respiH'l  fully,  yowv  obedient  servant, 

(^Sio-iu-d)  "({iia;s  li.   H.mm'.ki:, 

"  6'.  *S'.  Xavi/r 

Tiieulenant  Ilarber's  second  letter,  received  at  Washiiiii'ton  Nov. 
14,  ISS;'),  reads:  — 

"Yakctsk,  Au!;.  '21.   iss:r 
"Hon.  ^VM.  K.  Cii.wni.KiJ,  S,c)'it((n/  of  the  X<n'>/ : 

"8ii;,  —  I  hav(^  tla^  honor  lo  inform  the  l)e[)artnient  that  after  I'ln- 
nishinj:;;  materials  for  teuiitorary  caskets,  and  drawinij  ten  Ihdusaiul 
rubles  from  our  Minister  at  St.  Petersburg',  I  have  returned  U)  Yakutsk. 
I  tiud  tliat  after  our  departure  for  Kitach  hist  October,  a  poekel-knifc 
marked  'J.  Q.  A.  Zeigler,"  and  a  spoon,  were  found  on  the  route  lakcii 
by  DeLong,  and  brought  to  the  Hussian   Meteorological  Station  iioai 


•  i : 


TiriO   TKN    AT    lltKl'TSK. 


421 


•riiils  tor  ihc 


Kitiicli,  and  l>y  l/iciilcMiaii  (iiiij^ciis  rnrwiirtlcd  t(»  (luvcrintr  'rclicniairlT. 
'I'lioy  will  b(!  I»rniin;lit  liomo.  It  is  evident  tlp'V  l>elnni;»'(l  to  DeLon^'s 
|i,irty. 

"  Anej^niii  liavin<^  died  n|"  a  e()ntaL;i(iws  diseiisii,  liis  Imdv  nl'  conisc  (Mn- 
iidl  he  hiduj^lit  lidine.  ():i  our  way  mutli,  I  stopped  at-  Kernisok,  and 
vi-^ili'd  Ills  niavo,  und  left  insti  IK-Iions  to  liave  it  snitaldy  marine  I  in 
iii'i'ordaneu  witli  a  Hketcli  wlii(di  I  liave  forwaideil  iVoni  this  phiee.  'I'ho 
Assistiuit  I])i'iivnik  kindly  olTered  to  see  my  instrnetions  eairied  out'. 
"  Very  resiieetl'idly,  yoin'  oheijieiil  servant, 

*'(Jii.i;s  I  J.  1 1. \i;  moil." 

'I'lic  loiter  whieh  follows,  written  hy  an  "occasional  coi-icspondcMit " 
(if  the  Xi'tr  Vork  Tr'ihiiiic  (prohahl}'  hy  one  of  Lientenant  Ilarher's 
jiarty)  ruinishes  material  of  mneh  interest,  and  exphdns  sonu;  points 
not  emhriiued  in  the  hritd' ollicial  letters  which  have  hcen  (jnoliid. 

"  St.  I'r,ii;i!sniit(i,  Nov.  10. 

"Ayc.'ir  iv^i\  Idsl  Fchniary  Tiiciitcnant  (lilcs  I'.  ![:ul)cr  :m(!  I.iciilitnuit  W.  11. 
Scliiit'tzc,  of  the  United  Sliitcs  Niivy,  left,  this  city  kii  tlieir  wtiy  to  the  \a'\\:\.  Dcil.ilo 
siiircli  for  Liciilciiinil  ('liipp  uiiil  tli(!  othi-r  iiii.'-siii;j;  nii'ii  of  liie  ".Jc;nim'tt((."  About 
tiic  iiiitltll(!  of  tliis  nioiitli,  ti<(!  WL-atlicr  priiiiitti?!;^,  tliey  will  lc,iv(!  Yiil;iitsk  on  tiieir 
Innir  journ(\v  li'iiucw.ani  with  tlu!  rciiniins  of  liieiitt'ii;uit-(;oinin:iii(h:r  (lef)rjf(!  W. 
Dtj/onj;,  (Mpt.'iin  of  tiie  ' Joiiiinolle,'  and  the  ten  men  who  di(!d  with  liini  .-it  tlio 
mouth  of  tlu!  liCiKi  in  IHsl. 


A    I,ON<i    I>KI,.\V    IN    SI.CIUINI!   COIIINS. 

"When  liicMtcnruit  Il.irhcr  returned  to  Yaliutsk  on  Nov.  L't),  1H82,  from  tlie  Lena 
PcllM,  witlioiit  .■uiy  news  of  tlie  niissin;;^  men,  Ik;  fonnd  :iw;iitin<j^  iiim  oi'dei-s  to  liiko 
lioinctlK!  reniiiinsof  DiiLoni^and  iiis  companions.  'I'lie  ixxlics  could  not  ho  removed 
liMui  liie  toml)  ("iiicf  Hn^inccr  Melvilh*  built  —  noar  ^hlt  Vai  — witiiout  permission 
liMiii  the  Russian  Minister  of  tii(!  Interior,  and  this  was  not  rccoived  by  Mr.  ll:irl)er 
mini  Jan.  'J."j.  is.s;;.  While  waitinjr  nearly  two  months  for  authoritv  to  remove  tho 
Iimlics  li(!  made  all  ju'eparations  to  start  northward  again  without  dcday,  and  on 
.I.iiiiiary  2ti,  In;  and  Mr.  Schucilzo  loft  Y.akuisk  for  tlu;  l)(;lta.  'I'liey  accomi)lisho(l 
tiiiii'  t.ask  succ(>ssfully  and  retnrnecl  to  Yakutsk  on  March  29,  only  to  discover  that 
tlicy  must  remain  almost  a  ycf.ar  longcu"  in  Silx-ria.  The  report  current  at  the  tune 
WMs  that  the  United  States  (lov»n'mn(!nt  had  instructed  them  to  take  tlu;  bodies  home 
in  the  winter  season,  so  that  they  mijjjht  Ix;  tr.'\nsported  froz(!n.  If  such  an  order  was 
^'ivcn,  it  does  not  appt-ar  to  have  been  necessary,  for  Vvith  suitable  eolVins  the  bodies 
-cmUl  Ijavc  been  brought  to  Russia  without  "lelay.     Such  colUns,  however,  were  not 


ii 


m 


\\i 


:.i  ;. 


II ' 


4l!-J 


AMKIMCAN    KXrr,(>I«ATI()NS    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZONF.S. 


to  ln!  h.ul  ill  Y:ikiil>U.  mill  lor  som«>  n'Jison  llif  iiifliillii!  ours  scut,  from  llir  I  rniiii 

Slutos  li:ul  iiol  1 11  lorwMitli'ii  lo  (liiil  ciiy.      TIh'm' rolUiis  not,  bi-in};  in  Yakiii  k,  n 

liir;;(>  |)ortioii  ortlic  ilrl.iy  siiici'  li>{  Miirrli  li.is  hccii  uniivoitj.iblc.  Wlifn  Mi  lliilin- 
roiiiiil  lli.it  llir  liii>si.in  l.iw  woiilil  not  |icriuil  tin-  i<'niov;il  of  llii'  IkmIIcs  :iI  iiii\  .  i„,|| 
til"  llic  vt'.ir  ••M'<'|il  in  !iir-tij:;iil  rolVnis,  :inil  iIimI  lln-sc  coiilil  not  l»o  oi)l.iin<',|  n, 
Y:ilxutsk.  lie  ut  once  journt'vt'tl  lo  Irixiilsiv,  to  (»l)i;iiii  iicrinission  from  tlio  (Jovniior. 
(Jcncr.il  to  use  pmc  tin  ni-  M)nn-  olhci-  siiit.ililc  niiiti'i'ial  as  ii  linin;;  to  uiilinnv 
t'olliiis.  In  llii-i  Wiiv  III*  ii<i|ii'i|  to  ui.iki'  colVnis  tiiiit.  woiijil  conn-  within  tln'  |ii,i. 
visions  III' till"  law  and  mm\  i-  iinlil  I  In*  liodirs  conlil  !»»•  Iranst'i'irtMl  to  llir  niclallii'  uiiis 
sent  iVoni  Ni'w  York.  Uiil  it  was  not  an  easy  nialttT  l<»  obtain  pi'i mission  to  do  iIiIn. 
iind  it  was  not  nntil  laic  in  .Inly  that  he  was  ablo  to  leave  Irkntsk  lor  Yakut  k.  wiih 
authority  to  make  tln'  Icinporary  follins,  and  llio  nrccssary  iiiatrrials.  'I'lic  I'dtlinx 
\vei'i>  coini'li'tt'd  in  ji'ood  tiiut'.  hnl  he  was  t'onipelled  lo  wait,  a  litll<!  while  l(in;:i'r  r,ii- 

the  Lena  to  \'\ /e  over  before  he  eoiild  start   on  the  honnwvaril  jonriu'V.     ii  is  iii|it> 

Itoped  that  in'iiher  man  nor  weather  will  throw  any  fiu'ther  obstaeles  in  his  way,  and 
Ihat  he  will  soon  be  able  to  h'ave  Yakntsk.  If  he  is  favon-il  with  «;ood  weather  and 
lia>  reasonable  aid  in  his  joniiiey,  he  will  reach  New  York  some  time  in  Keiiniary. 

A  Min-wiNTi  i{  mil'  ro  rm;  i  ina  Di.i.rA. 

"  When  l.ienlenant  llarber  ree«'ived  permission  to  remove  the  bodies  of  Drl.on^; 
and  his  men  from  the  tomb,  he  started,  as  has  l)et'n  slated  above,  immedialcly  lor 
the  Lena  Helta,  lie  left  Yakutsk  with  Mr.  Schuet/,*'  and  a  Cossaek,  lakinj;-  with  him 
.'i  tr.iin  of  six  sleds,  three  of  whiiih  were  lo.aded  with  provisions,  materials  I'oicon- 
struclin;:  new  sleds,  and  fell  in  which  to  wrap  the  bodies.  lb-  started  northw.ird  a 
year  and  live  days  .after  Chief  Knuineer  Melville  be^an  his  journey  to  se.ircli  for 
Dtd.oiiiT.  1/ist  y«':ir  the  ("lovernmeiit  had  the  entire  road  prepared  for  Mr.  Melville, 
deer  bein;::  Indd  for  him  at  every  station,  .and  after  le.ivinj;  Yen  hoyansk  In-  win 
forluiiate  enouLrli  to  have  the  piM'son.al  assistance  of  the  Ispr.avnik.  The  (Jovcrinncnt 
ir.ivc  Mclxillc  all  the  assistance  possible,  because  he  was  upon  an  errand  of  mercy. 
Ibit  tlic  remov.il  of  the  bodies  was  a  ditVcrent  matter,  and  in  such  a.  ease  the  local 
otVicials  had  no  authority  to  lend  a  iiclpin!::  hand.  ^Ir.  llarber  w.as  permithMl  lo 
make  the  journey,  but  he  had  to  depend  entirely  upon  his  own  resources. 

"  In  eoine-  from  Y.akutsk  to  the  .nouth  of  thc^  T.ena  in  the  winter,  the  v.illey  of 
tliat  river  is  not  folknved.  A  shorter  and  better  route  is  obtainetl  by  ixoinir  north- 
ward across  the  Ald.m  i^ver.  ov(M'  the  Verchoyansk  Mountains  and  then  down  tin' 
valley  of  the  Jana  Hiv(>r,  to  the  eastward  of  the  Lena.  !Mr.  ITarber  followed  llic 
same  route  that  Melville  took.  exc(>pt  that  lit*  was  obliged  to  travel  much  further. 
goinir  to  the  mouth  of  the  Omalvi  ami  then  to  l^ulun.  while  tlie  last  foiu-  hutiiln'il 
versts  of  Melville's  journey  were  over  the  direct  road  to  Rulun.  Melville,  with  the 
assistance  of  the  Government,  made  the  northward  journey  in  twelve  workinjr  days; 
Harber.  without  tlie  aid  of  the  Government,  made  it  in  twenty-three  days.  ITarbcrV 
entire  journey  occupied  sixty  and  one-half  workinjr  days,  and  when  he  returncil  to 
Yakutsk  on  March  '20.  the  olVu-ials  were  surprised  at  the  good  time  made  and  ti;e 
successful  transportation  of  the  bodies. 


Tin:  i>kki!-i'i;ain. 


m 


rroni  till-  liiihii 
<^  in  Yakiii  -k,  ;i 
lii-ii  Ml.  11.11 1,,.,' 
rs  :il  ;iliv  ~i:im.ii 
l)(t  nltl.-iiiii'il  ill 
[1  tin*  (loviTtior- 
iii;!;  to  (irdiirii'v 

willlill    lllr    |i|o- 

III'  iiictallic  (iiii'.s 
issioii  to  <lo  tlii-. 
r  Yiikiil   Iv,  uiili 

iN.       'I'lic  I'otlillH 

wliild  loiiijcr  t(if 
ricy.  Ii  is  to  l)i> 
1  ill  his  \v;iy,  ami 
)0(1  wfiillnT  :iiul 
o  in  Kt'hniai'v. 


oilier  of  i)<'I,onjj 
imincdiiitcly  tur 
taking  with  him 
liitcriiils  I'lii'  coil- 
ed northward  a 
icy  to  scarcli  {"or 
for  Mr.  M.'lvilli". 
hoyansk  he  was 
riic  (Jovcriiiiicnt 
■n'Miid  of  mercy, 
a.  ease  tlie  lecal 
I'as  permitted  to 
r(M>s. 

ter,  tlie  valh'v  of 
by  fxoinir  north- 
(1  tiion  down  tho 
ler  followed  the 
el  nineh  further, 
nst  four  humlred 
[olville,  with  the 
G  workinir  days: 
!  days.  TTarhcr's 
n  ho  returned  to 
ue  made  and  tl;e 


i»uivi,N  I  itoM   riir. 


■ASS  nv  AN  Aurric  <iAi 


"  Thi.'i  rorid  is  prohtilily  the  steepest,  Ir.iveih'd  one  known,  and  its  passa<;e  in 
rendered  more  diirieult  hy  the  treqiient.  Iii;;h  winds.  On  iipproaehin^j;  tlie  |i!iss,  Lieii- 
iciiant  llarher's  parly  hiid  line  weather,  iJio  d.iy  Ixdn;;  eleiir  ami  calm,  and  Iho  Iher- 
Mi'iiieter  ill  -110"^  K.  As  the  train  drew  nearer  to  the  pass,  liowevei',  a  lij^ht  air  was 
|i  li.  I'll))  decr-(h'ivers  did  not  appear  to  like  it,  lull.  tii(!  train  moved  on.  The  win<i 
1,'icw  slron;x<'''  {gradually  as  the  train  moved  i>n,  ami  wiien  the  party  emcij^ed  from 
tiic  woods  near  the  foot  of  the  stttepesl  part  of  the  pa^s  it  was  met  hy  a  '^;\h-  from  tint 
iKHlh.  'I'he  wind  was  not  only  stron<x,  hut  it  was  intensely  cohh  Tlie  doer  could 
not  lace  it,  and  the  party  was  coiupelled  to  turn  hack  and  Iravtil  nearly  all  niixht  to 
llie  nearest  sh(dter,  a  powarni,  or  cookiii<j;-hou-ie,  on  the  soulii  sid(!  of  the  mountains. 
Alioiit  the  niidille  of  the  followiri'j  day  there  were  si;xns  that  the  wind  would  ehaiijjo 
|o  (he  soiilh,  and  the  deer  were  at  onco  started  jis  (jiiiekiy  as  pos.sihjc  for  the  pas.s 
uliieh  was  reached  Iti  j;ood  season.  It,  took  the  train  from  It)  I'.M.  to  I  A..M.  to  cross 
llie  rid;x<'.  'he  wind  hlowin^j  a  inoderale  ;^ah)  from  the  south. 

"When  Verchoyaiisk,  on  the  ,fana,  was  reached,  n  <'ontract;  was  made  with  a 
decr-owiM'r  for  tin-  transportation  of  tlie  bodies,  a?id  after  consultation  it  was  dcf'ided 
iiol  lo  e;o  direct  to  ihiliin,  i)ut  '.o  the  mouth  of  the  Omalvi  and  then  across  the  IJor- 
cliaia,  r>.iy  to  (leniovialocke  Island  (at  the  mouth  of  the  southeastern  brani'h  of  tli" 
I.cii.i),  where  doi;s  for  tr.avcUiiii;  in  the  Delta,  were  to  he  obtained.  When  tin,'  party 
reached  IJorchai.i.  I>ay,  it  found  th.itthe  eoiiliniied  lii;xh  winds  had  blown  the  snow 
fioni  the  ice.  'I'Ik!  deer  could  not,  lr;iv<'l  over  the  imeovered  ice,  and  their  ownca* 
refused  to  follow  the  shore  of  th(!  bay  and  save  the  time  it.  would  lake  to  '^o  south- 
eastward to  Ihilun.  To  Ihiliin  IIk!  train  was  driven,  and  then  to  Kumaksurk,  IhikolV, 
:iiid  (lemovialocke.  Wh(!n  the  latter  place  was  rca.elieil  the  party  was  met  by  :i  povrga. 
In  fifteen  minutes,  thoiiijh  overhead  IIk;  sky  Av.as  beautifully  clear,  th<!  air  for  many 
feel  from  the  earth  was  lillect  with  a  mass  of  snow,  with  air  spac^es  som(!what  laij^cr 
than  exist  when  the  snow  is  lyin;u^  on  the  o^round.  ()bj(!ets  at  a  disUinet!  of  thirty 
feet  could  not,  i)(!  se(!n.  Thero  w.as  some  trouble  in  scnairin;;  doj^-teams,  b(!e:iiis(!  of 
the  scarcity  of  d()u;s,  but  when  the  {jale,  which  lasted  three  days,  was  over,  the  party 
tilartod  for  Mat  Vai  with  seven  teams  of  twelve  doj^s  each. 

Ki;M(>VIN(r  TIIK   I50IIIES   FROM  THE  TOMH. 

"Three  days'  travellinjr,  Avith  fjfood  weather,  bi-ou,<;ht  the  p.'irty  to  Mat  Vai,  where 
the  ten  men  spent  tint  niiiht  hi  :i  hut  twelve!  feet  stpian!.  The  "ood  weather  con- 
timied  durin<jj  the  next  dav,  and  at  noon  the  i)arty  haltiid  at  the  tomb  containinj^  the 
nniains  of  DeLonjj;  and  hi.i  companions.  To  opcm  the  t(mib,  removes  tli(i  snow  and 
expose  the  bodies  Avas  the  work  of  less  than  an  hour.  From  descriptions  as  to  cloth- 
iiii;'  and  position,  Mr.  Ilarber  wa.s  .able  to  identify  tlu;  bodies,  and  as  each  one  was 
removed  it  was  carefully  markenl  and  wrappcsd  in  felt.  liy  nijjhtfall  the  tomb  was 
oiii]>ty  and  again  closed,  and  tlu;  party  was  at  Mat  Vai,  ready  for  an  early  start  in 
the  morninj;.  The  run  up  the  Lena  to  Bnlun  w.as  a  hard  one.  The  loads  were 
Meavv  and  the  ice  was  roiifjh.  and  for  a  portion  of  the  Mnie  the  party  had  to  «on- 


1    i) 


■r 


424 


AMERICAN    EXPLOIIATIONS    IN    THE    ICE   ZONES. 


ft  's 


^!  h^'' 


hi  n 


Ul 


h  'ii 


;li::    US 


if  ' 


tontl.  with  strong  heiul-wincls  and  drifting^  snow.  At  IJiiliin  h  sled  for  eacii  ])()iiv  y.jj. 
niadf,  as  all  were  so  crookud  that  two  could  not  easily  bo  carriuil  on  one  sled.  ,\il(;r 
some  delay  in  securing  deer,  the  train  again  starti-d  with  sixteen  sleds  and  forty  difi-. 
The  r<'st  of  the  tedious  journey  was  made  slowly,  the  deer  being  poor  and  often  ;,'iv- 
ing  out.  Hut  by  struggling  on  day  and  night,  Yakutsk  was  reached  in  safiUy  on 
March  29,  just  as  thawing  weather  set  in.  Throughout  the  Journey  the  cold  was 
great,  the  thermometer  falling  on  one  day  to  — Gl)^  F. 

•'Since  leaving  St.  Petersburg,  eighteen  months  ago.  Mr.  Harbor  and  Mv. 
Sclnietze  have  had  anything  but  a  pleasant  time.  Their  best  beds  for  ten  niontlis 
were  planks  covered  with  dt!er-skins,  and  for  many  days  they  slept  upon  wet  ground, 
often  in  the  mud.  Their  diet  has  been  fish,  reindeer-m<;at,  rice,  and  hard,  Ijliuk 
bread,  to  which  were  added  potatoes,  birds,  white  bread,  frozen  cabbage,  and  salt 
cucumbers  while  they  were  in  Yakutsk." 

In  elosincf  tliis  record  of  American  heroism,  one  or  two  reflections 
may  be  permitted.  Tiiis  voyage  certainly  brings  to  the  pages  of  his- 
tory a  memorable  story.  If  the  Pole,  or  even  a  very  higli  latitude, 
could  have  been  reached  by  this  route,  or  if,  at  the  season  of  18Ti\ 
Wrangell  or  Herald  Islands  could  have  been  made  by  any  one,  De- 
Long  and  his  noble  comrades  would  have  secured  one  or  all  of  these 
objects.  Their  professional  ability,  courage,  energy,  and  fortitude  are 
in  j)roof. 

The  Xavid  Court  of  Inquiry,  after  a  most  thorough  examination  of 
all  the  survivors  of  the  Ex[)edition,  reported,  as  regards  the  perfornianco 
of  the  duties  expected  from  its  officers,  that  the  evidence  shoM's  "that 
in  the  management  of  the  '  Jeannette'  up  to  the  time  of  her  destruction, 
Lieutenant  Commander  DeLong,  by  his  foresight  and  prudence,  pro- 
vided measures  to  meet  emergencies,  and  enforced  wise  regulations  to 
maintain  discipline,  to  preserve  health,  and  to  encourage  clieerl'iilness 
among  those  under  his  command;  and  the  physical  condition  of  the 
peo2)le  was  good,  with  the  exception  of  a  few  cases  of  lead  poisoning, 
the  result  of  eating  canned  provisions.  The  fact  of  the  shi])''s  having' 
l)assed  a  second  winter  in  the  pack  without  any  aj)i)earance  of  scurvy 
on  board,  sufficiently  attests  the  excellence  of  the  sanitary  arrangc- 
ments  adopted,  and  reflects  great  credit  u;)on  her  medical  officer. 
Passed  Assistant-Surgeon  James  M.  Ai>ibler,  who  tliroughout  the 
expedition  was  indefatig;d)le  in  the  performance  of  his  duties."  It 
was  to  his  ^..onstant  care  of   the  sanitary   cnntlilion  of   ihe  ship  aui 


THE   NOUTH    I'OLE   NOT   TO    UK    REACHED. 


425 


the  ship's  company  in  rcfriird  to  the  air,  litjht,  ventihition,  and  diink- 
iiiy  water,  that  the  "  Jeannette "  passed  tiiriino-h  two  such  (h'])ress- 
inn  winters  without  a  touch  of  scurvy.  Of  tlie  nieteoroh)gist,  Mr. 
.loioine  .J.  Collins,  DeLong  sjxike  as  a  gentleman  who  connnended 
hiiiiself  by  his  intelligent  zeal  and  h'u  determination  to  secure  the 
best  results  of  the  expedition.  Lieutenant  Danenhower  s  narrative 
tcstiiies  to  his  usefulness  as  a  meteorologist.  His  predictions  of  the 
southeast  drift  of  June,  18(S1,  were  in  keeping  with  his  like  aceu- 
laic  forewarnings  while  he  was  the  meteorologist  of  the  JVcw  York 
Herald. 

But  the  condition  of  the  ice  from  even  tiie  date  of  August  1  of  the 
year  1879-80  was  exceptionally  different,  as  has  heen  shown,  not  only 
tVoiu  DeLong's  exi)ectation,  but  from  that  of  the  years  immediat(dy  pre- 
ceding. Giving  full  weight  then  to  the  disadvantageous  delay  experi- 
enced by  ills  search  for  Professor  Nordenskiold  —  a  delay  commented 
iipdu  with  justice  by  the  Naval  board  —  it  seems  clear  that  even  without 
this  delay,  DeLong's  urgent  desire  to  put  his  shi[)  into  winter  quarters  in 
some  harbor  in  Wrangell  J^and  such  as  afterwards  found  by  Berry, 
idiild  not  have  been  accom[)Iished.  His  journal  of  Se[)tember  4  reads: 
"At  2  wsi.  the  greatest  amount  o(  water  space  seeming  to  be  to  the 
northeast,  the  SJeai.nette  '  made  her  way  in  that  direction  generally, 
iiiul,  at  4.30  had  succeeded  in  getting  out  of  the  jiai-k  into  the  open 
soa."  Seaman  Nindemann  also  testifies  that  coming  down  from 
ih(>  crow's  nest  he  reported  to  the  Captain  that  there  was  ])l(>nty  of 
water  northward  and  eastward,  to  which  DeLong  answered:  "I  wish 
lo  try  and  make  Wrangell  Land  if  I  can."  Nindemann  further  tesli- 
licd  that  on  steaming  a  little  to  the  northward,  the  ship  struck  a  large 
lead  that  ran  in  toward  Wrangell  Land,  and  as  there  were  still  huge 
lioles  of  open  water  to  the  w'estward,  if  she  could  have  forced  her  way 
iliroiigh  the  ice  for  al)OUt  iifty  yards  ahead,  she  would  have  made 
lurthir  progress;  but,  that  in  the  night  of  the  r)th,  the  ice  had  closed 
tii^t'lher  and  the  young  ice  formed  so  thick  it  was  iinpossil)le  for  a 
^liip  lo  steam  through.  If  he  "had  had  charge  ol"  th(!  sliij)  at  that 
liiae.  he  would  have  done  what  Captain  DeLong  did,  if  he  wanted 
to  reach  Wrangell  Land."     When  the  shi[)  entered  the  lead,  Septem- 


426 


AMERrCAN    EXPLOIIATIONS    IX   THE    ICE    ZON'KS. 


:1 


if 


U    h 


hi 


f 


bev  5,  he  thought  "there  was  a  fair  chiince  of  getting  her  through  to 
Wrangell  Land." 

In  connection  with  such  statements,  how  impressive  is  tlio  lisson 
drawn  anew  from  tlie  uncertainties  of  ice-navigation,  and  how  (hslnart- 
eninff  DeLong's  journal  of  the  12th:  — 

"It  is  unpleasant  to  realize  that  our  exploration  for  a  whole  vcar 
should  come  to  a  stop  on  the  6th  September,  and  that  at  a  point  wliidi 
a  sailing  shij),  the  'Vincennes,'  reached  in  1855  without  any  dil'licultv. 
And  here  we  are  in  a  steamer,  and  beset  in  the  pack  before  Ave  iirc  (wo 
months  out  of  San  Francisco.  My  disap[)ointment  is  great,  how  Lj'n'at 
no  one  else  Avill  probably  ever  know.  I  had  hoped  to  accomplish  sinuc- 
thing  new  in  the  first  summer."" 

How  ])rompt]y  arises  the  now  useless  regret  that  a  harbor  could  Hdt 
have  been  secured,  and  the  ship's  company  of  the  "  Jeannette"  sliclicicil 
on  the  island,  and  at  the  worst,  if  no  further  nortlnvard  progress  liail 
been  made  they  had  been  maintained  on  their  abundant  supplies  and 
iinally  rescued  by  the  "Ccu'win,"  the  "Rodgers,"  or  aonu)  passing  whaler. 

Once  more  —  how  can  the  further  regret  be  stilled  whieli  arises 
f'-om  the  fact  that  through  the  imperfect  information  of  the  eliaiis. 
and  also,  it  is  believed,  from  some  Europeim  publications  in  tiie  hands 
of  Ca[)tain  DcFiOng,  a  landing  Avas  made  by  him  at  so  unfavoruhle  a. 
l)oint,  and  the  uncertain  course  from  it  taken  on  the  Lena  Delta  Avhicli 
ended  only  in  destruction?  With  better  information  he  might  liaA'e 
been  directed  to  a  safe  landing ;  he  Avas  Avithiu  tAventy-li\'e  miles  of  n 
Siberian  settlement. 

Yet  these  unavailing  regrets  may  aa^cII  give  ]dace  to  the  sentiincius 
of  r(>verence  ai'd  just  esteem  for  the  noble  dead,  and  to  the  collSl)lill^ 
retlection  that  in  the  judgment  of  the  NaA-^al  Court  of  Inquiry,  even- 
thing  possible  Avas  done  for  their  relief.  "Considering,"  the  court 
says,  '•  the  condition  of  the  survivors,  the  unfaA'orable  season,  tiio 
limited  knoAvledge  of  the  country,  the  Avant  of  facilities  for  pidsc- 
cuting  the  search,  and  the  great  dilTiculty  of  communicating  with 
the  natives;  CA'^erything  possible  Avas  done  for  the  relief  of  the  other 
parties."  The  Chief  of  the  Bureau  of  Navigation,  Connnodori,  Walker. 
veports  the  entry  upon  the  Charts  of  the  U.S.  Hydrographic  Ollice.  ^f 


it  1 


s. 


HONORS    TO    DeLONG   AND    HIS    COMUADES. 


427 


ler  thv()u;j,h  to 

is  tlio  li'ssoii 
how  disluart- 

L-  Ji  wllolt'  year 
a  ])()iiit  wliu'li 
any  dit'ticultv. 
ore  we  arc  I  wo 
reat,  liow  L:'ri'at 
complisU  sduu'- 

irbov  eonlil  not 
lette"  slicliorcil 
I'd  progii'ss  liail 
lut  supiilu's  and 
passlii;4' Avlialcr. 
id  wliieli   arises 
I  oT  tlio  cliails. 
)ns  ill  tlio  hands 
1)  unfavorable  a. 
na  Delta  which 
ho  miglit  have 
v-iive  miles  of  a 

the  sentiments 
o  the  consolin;4- 

Iu(iuiry,  everv- 
ing,"  the  eourt 
ible  season,  tiio 
ilities  for  I'rost- 
minieating  with 
lii>f  of  the  otiuT 
\nio(hn't,  Walker. 
^■raphic  Oflice.  "f 


the  group  of  islands  discovered  by  De Long,  as  the  "DoLong  Islands," 
ill  memory  of  that  gallant  olhcor.  The  Hydrographer,  Commander 
De  Kraft,  in  connection  with  this  notice  says:  "that  the  islands  con- 
sidered an  extension  of  the  New  Siberian  group  are  thus  entered  on  the 
Chart,  as  a  lasting  testhnonial  in  the  regions  of  eternal  ice  to  the  intre- 
jiidily  of  the  Commander  of  the  SJeannette,'  who  reached  a  higher 
latitude  in  the  Siberian  Arctic  than  any  heretofore  attained."' 

The  review  of  the  whole  voyage  which  is  to  be  found  in  the  Bulletin 
,h'  Ik  Socicte  Je  Geographic,  1st  Trimestre,  1883,  closes  thus:  "Honor 
to  Di'Long,  wdio  always  knew  how  to  exercise  the  fullest  qualities  of 
c'(iurag(!  and  of  command!  Honor  to  all  his  comrades,  otlicers,  and 
saih)rs,  whose  si)irit  of  discipline  and  sacrifice  is  a  glory  to  the  navy 
\v]ii(h  counts  such  men  within  its  raid\s.''  This  is  tlie  tribute  of  an  im- 
partial judge  who  had  at  hand  all  the  elements  of  a  proper  judgment. 

Note.  —  Since  those  papers  wm-o  sent  to  the  press,  the  author  has  roociived  from 
Kniriiu'or  Melville  a  copj'  of  a  letter  (tnmslatod  from  the  Russian)  written  to  him  by 
Giiiun-al  Tc'hernaieir  from  Irkutsk,  in  which  letter,  Jifter  repeated  expressions  of  esteem, 
the  (Governor  gives  a  detailed  list  of  the  crosses  of  honor,  m<!dals,  and  monej-s  recently 
holowed  by  the  Czar  on  the  Ispravniks  and  on  the  natives  avIio  assisted  ]M«'lvillc  and 
Ihiiciiliower  in  tlmir  searches  for  DeLong  and  Cliipp.  The  Governor  had  recom- 
imiKled  rewards  for  tlio  Russian  exiles  also  who  had  assisted  in  tiie  searcii.  His 
littci'  says  that  "tiie  jjapers  of  these  Criminal  Exiles  have  been  asked  for  by  the  Min- 
ister, .iiid  reiiommendatlon  is  to  be  made  thereon  to  the  Czar  for  his  action."  May 
tlu!  ininiane  and  prompt  deinls  of  humanity  rolatecl  by  Danenhower,  as  received  from 
-iiiK'  of  these  poor  exiles,  recall  tliem  from  the  Siberian  wilds  to  their  native  lantis! 

The  cable  dispatch  Ixdow  jiives  the  latest  words  from  Lieutenant  Ilarber,  who 
with  the  remains  of  the  ten  of  the  Delta  may  be  expected  within  sixty  days:  — 

"luKCTSK.  Dec.  21. 
"Tlie  remains  of  Commander  DoLono;  and  his  comrades  of  the  ill-fated  '  Jean- 
iictte'  Expedition  have  arrived  here.  The  rem.ains  were  borne  in  procession  through 
tlie  >tr(;ets  to-day,  escorted  by  a  detachment  of  troops.  A  multitude  of  people  Joined 
in  tlic!  cortc'ge.  IVIany  wre.atlis  were  placed  upon  the  eoflins,  and  printed  copies  of 
|>o('ins  (loscril)ing  the  exploits  and  unliajipy  end  of  DeLong  and  his  party  were  dls- 
liihiited  aiaong  the  crowd.     The  remains  will  be  taken  to  America." 

Tli('s(!  honors  w^ere  not  jirompted  by  curiosity  only,  for  the  condition  of  i\w  bodies 
wds  well  kno\vn.     Memorials  are  proposed  for  erection  at  the   Naval   Academy, 

.\niKipolis. 


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CHAPTER    XI. 

RELIEF  EXPEDITIONS  FOR  THE   "JEANNETTE." 

THE  FIItST  CFUISE  OF  THE  "  CORWIN,"  1880. — THE  MISSING  WHALi:i;s. 
—  INSTRUCTIONS  OF  SECRETARY  SHERMAN  FOR  THEIR  SEAKCll  AND 
FOR  THE  "•  JEANNETTE." — THE  SHIP  REFITTED  AT  SAN  FRANCISCO.— 
ARRIVES  AT  OlINALASKA,  ,IUNF  7TH.  — NIPPED  IN  THE  PACK  (tl'I- 
CAPE  ROMANZOFF,  JUNE  lOTH.  —  ENTERS  THE  ARCTIC  SEA  liSTH.  — 
LAST  SIGHT  OF  THE  "MOUNT  WOLLASTON "  AND  "VKJILANT"'  KK- 
POIJTED  BY  CAPTAIN  BAULDRY.  —  VISIT  TO  THE  CAVE  DWELLEllS  ON 
KIN(;"S  ISLAND.  — THE  COAL  VEIN  EAST  OF  CAPE  LISHUItNE.  —  WITH- 
IN SEVEN  MILES  OF  HERALD  ISLAND. — ^VRANGELL  LAND  IN  SKJHT. 
LAND  SEEN  TO  THE  NORTH.  — RETURN  OF  THE  "CORWIN." — CAl'- 
TAIN  hooper's  NOTES  OF  THE  ICE  —  OF  THE  HABITS  AND  CUSTOMS 
OF  THE  NATIVES  ON  THE  SHORES  OF  THE  ARCTIC. 

SECOND  CRUISE  OF  THE  "  CORWIN,"  1881.  — INSTRUCTIONS  OF  SECHE- 
TARY  SHERMAN.  —  OFFICERS. — SAILING  FROM  SAN  FRANCISCO.  - 
ONALCJA  PASS.  —  OUNALASKA.  —  ST.  LAWRENCE  ISLAND.  —  REI'OltTS 
OF  THE  MISSING  SHIPS  AT  CAPE  SERDZE-KA^^IEN.  —  SLEDGE  PARTY  T(J 
REACH  THE  SHORE.  —  PLOVER  BAY.  —  RETURN  TO  CAPE  SERDZH.— 
LANDIN(J  ON  HERALD  ISLAND. — CHARACTER  OF  THE  ISLAND.— 
LANDING  ON  WRAN(JELL  LAND.  —  DISCOVERY  OF  THIS  LAND  MY 
CAPTAINS  LONG  AND  RAYNOR,  1807. — THE  "  CORWIN  "  THE  FIRST 
TO  EXPLORE  IT.  —  HOISTS  THE  U.S.  FLAG.  —  VISIT  TO  POINT  HAR- 
ROW. —  RETURN  TO  SAN  FRANCISCO.  — TRIBUTE  TO  DkLONG. 

THE  FIRST   CRUISE,   MAY  22   TO   OCTOBER   12,  1880. 

WHEN  the  North  Pacific  whaling  fleet  of  1879  had  rotuni.d 
from  their  cruise  hiter  tliaii  usual,  without  bringing  any  word 
of  the  "Jeannette,"  and  it  was  further  learned  that  t\Yo  of 
their  number,  the  "Mount  Wollaston  "  and  the  "Vigilant,''  had  iidt 
been  seen  later  than  October  10,  and  then  in  the  same  region  where 
the  "Jeannette  "  had  been  last  seen,  much  anxiety  began  to  be  felt  for 

428 


THE   "CORWIN,"  1880. 


429 


the  ships.  In  the  spring  following,  petitions  were  forwarded  to  Con- 
gross  and  to  the  Naval  authorities,  asking  for  Relief  Expeditions  in 
search  of  the  "  Jeannette."  The  U.S.  Treasury  Department  was  first 
able  to  offer  assistance. 

May  15,  1880,  Secretary  Sherman  ordered  the  Revenue  Steamer 
''Corwin,"  Captain  C.  L.  Hooper  commanding,  to  proceed  from  San 
Francisco  on  a  cruise  in  the  waters  of  Alaska,  chietiy  "for  the  enforce- 
ment of  the  provisions  of  law  and  protection  of  the  interests  of  the 
U.  S.  Government  on  the  seal  islands,  and  the  sea  otter  hunting  grounds 
and  of  Alaska  generally ;  but,  additionally,  to  afford  assistance  to  the 
two  whalers, '  Mount  WoUaston  '  and  '  Vigilant '  if  they  should  possibly 
be  fallen  in  with.''  They  had  been  reported  to  the  Department  as  hav- 
ing been  probably  caught  in  the  ice  within  the  Arctic  Ocean,  while 
endeavoring  to  return  through  Bering  Straits. 

Captain  Hooper  was  further  instructed  to  make  careful  inquiries 
while  in  the  Arctic,  regarding  the  progress  and  whereabouts  of  the 
steamer  "  Jeannette,"  and,  if  practicable,  to  communicate  with  and 
extend  any  assistance  to  that  vessel.  He  was  permitted  in  his  discre- 
tion to  remain  in  the  Arctic  Ocean  as  late  in  the  season  as  might  be 
necessary  to  accomplish  the  object  of  liis  voyage  without  encountering 
nndne  hazai'd  to  his  command.  The  "Corwin"was  built  at  Abina, 
Oieij^ou,  entirely  of  Oregon  fir,  fastened  with  copper,  galvanized  iron, 
iiiid  locust  tree  nails ;  her  length  between  perpendiculars  was  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty-seven  feet  six  inches ;  beam  moulded,  twenty-three 
feci;  overall  twenty-four  feet;  draught  ten  feet  ten  inches;  tonnage 
two  hundred  and  twenty-seven,  custom-house  measurement.  She  was 
now  strengthened  with  one-inch  oak  plank,  two  feet  above  water  line 
til  six  feet  below,  from  stem  to  stern,  put  on  over  the  copper  and 
secured  with  two  and  a  half  inch  composition  nails.  She  was  furnished 
with  a  three-eighth  inch  iron  ice-breaker,  a  new  steam  windlass  was 
built,  and  all  her  machinery  thoroughly  overhauled  and  renewed. 
Under  steam  she  could  make  eleven  knots.  Captain  E.  11,  Smith, 
experienced  in  Arctic  navigation,  went  out  as  ice-pilot  to  the  ship's 
eonii)any  numbering  in  all  forcy  persons.  They  were  provisioned  for 
twelve  months. 


11 


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^ 


I  i!  - 

430 


AMElllCAN    EXI'LOIIATIONS    IN   THE    ICE   ZONES. 


'I'lio  "  Coi'vviii "  unived  at  Ouiialaska  alter  a  rough  [)as.sai^e  of 
twelve  days,  sailing  from  wiiich  port  June  8,  and  touching  at  St.  I'aiils 
lat.  oT"  .V,  hnig.  lO'J''  51',  she  shaped  her  course  for  Cape  lioniuii/.uir, 
and  at  (Uiyligiit  of  the  11th,  lirst  struck  this  ice  north  of  Koimivak 
IsUind,  hit.  i)0^  N.,  long.  Iti0°  W.  The  iieavy  pitching  and  giindiu^r 
aloig  the  edge  of  the  pack  made  it  unsafe  to  attempt  to  force  tin-  way, 
and  the  "Corwin"  anchored  in  a  fair  hurbiM-  until  the  going  down  oi 
tlie  gale  on  the  13tii.  After  working  about  twenty  nules  through  Uiuls, 
})icked  out  from  time  to  time,  on  the  lAth  Captain  Hooper  fouml  him. 
self  utterly  heli)less,  drifting  with  the  pack  southward  and  eastwanl 
about  two  miles  })er  hour.  At  8  a.m.  he  was  in  only  live  fathoms  oi' 
water  among  grounded  ice,  which  gave  the  vessel  sharj)  nips,  trying  her 
strength.  At  one  time  the  "Corwin"  was  lifted  u[)  bodil}^  several  i'ect. 
and  held  susi)ended  for  some  minutes;  coming  in  contact  with  one, 
"stern  on,"  the  rudder  was  forced  over,  (lie  screw  steering  gear  carried 
away,  and  the  w!(eel  (diains  parted.  IIa])[)ily  the  rudder  stock,  whicji 
was  of  the  best  Oregon  oak,  stood  the  strain,  although  for  a  time  it 
seemed  as  if  'lothing  could  save  it.  On  the  16th,  the  ship  continued 
to  drift  helplessly  all  day. 

On  the  17th,  a  sharp  northeast  gale  broke  up  the  i'jo  and  stard'd  it 
off  shore,  allowing  the  "  (\)rwin  "  to  proceed  towards  Norton  Sound 
and  St.  Michael's,  where  she  was  again  detained  several  days.  She  had 
received  from  the  natives  the  unwelcome  news  that  the  previous  win- 
ter had  been  the  most  severe  ever  known,  a  report  confirmed  by  the 
sealers  from  Norton  Sound. 

Steaming  over  to  St.  Lawrence  Island  to  investigate  a  report  whieli 
had  been  made  to  the  Treasury  Department  of  a  fearful  starvation  ef 
the  iidiabitants  there.  Captain  Hooper  found  one  village  entindy  de- 
serted, and  in  a  second  not  a  living  being,  but  manv  of  the  deml  nn- 
burie<l,  the  whole  number  of  those  who  perished  being  estimated  at  one 
hundred  and  fifty.  At  other  villages  they  had  died  by  hundreds,  the 
survivors  rei)orting  that  the  weather  had  been  cold  and  stormy  fera 
long  time  with  great  quantities  of  ice  and  snow ;  his  again  was  no 
encouraging  news  in  regard  to  the  missing  whalers  and  the  ".leau- 
nette." 


■'!  t!  * 


1    [)iissa;4';   of 
J  at  Si.  I'liiil's 
»u  Uuiuiiii/.ori', 
ol"  Koiinivuk 
and  griiidinn- 
force  lln'  way. 
;oiiig  down  of 
tlirougli  leads, 
ler  I'ouiul  liim- 
and  east  wan  I 
ve  i'athoiiis  lit' 
iil)S,  tryiiijT  her 
y  several  fct't. 
tact  wHli  line, 
ig  gear  carried 
■r  stock,  wliieli 

I  for  a  time  it 
ship  contiiiiieil 

and  start(>d  it 
Norton  Sound 
lays.    She  liad 
previous  win- 

II  firmed  ])y  the 

a  report  whieli 

1  starvation  of 

cje  entirtdy  dc- 

>f  the  dead  uu- 

tiniated  at  one 

hundreds,  the 

id  stormy  for  a 

again  was  no 

lid  the  "-leau- 


2   y. 


, 

li; 

i 

if 

'  'kii  ■  nu 

pi 

■  iiii 

■ 

1 

IrjBHMlll   ' 

s 

y^PS 

1" 

''.:  I 

HMl 

:fi 

:% 

'[II 

; 

^^  im 

'  i|  i 

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f 

' 

I  i 


1  1; 


ii 


i-l-  ['■] 


432 


AMKiaCAX    EXl'LOIlATrONS    IN    THK    ICE   ZONES. 


At  G  P.M.  of  tliG  '28tli,  the  "Corwiu"  entered  the  Arctic  Sim:  un 
the  30th  she  luade  two  whalers,  one  of  whicli  had  communicated  ^vith 
the  natives  at  Point  Hope,  but  coukl  learn  no  good  tidings  there.  Fol- 
lowing the  ic;e  pack  around  from  Cape  Serdze  Kanien,  and  coniunuii- 
cating  with  the  natives  and  whalers  on  both  sides  of  Bering  Strait  and 
within  the  Arctic  Ocean,  she  learned  from  them  without  exception  thai 
in  their  opinion  nothing  would  ever  be  heard  of  the  "Mount  UOllas- 
ton"*  Oi-  the  "Vigilant."  They  were  reported  as  last  seen  by  ('a|iiaiii 
Hauldry  ')f  the  "  Helen  Mar"  (  •  New  ^  ulf  rd,  forty  miles  southea.i  of 
Herald  liiland,  with  clci  .•  wate  .i.;  i  iM.  tni^e  to  the  northward,  in  uiiicli 
direction  they  were  steering.  C  ^''  i  ■  Bauldry  himself  had  cscajicd 
with  difliculty  by  forcing  a  passage  throu:;  the  new  ice  which  tuniicd 
rajjidly  around  him,  but  a  sudden  change  of  wind  had  driven  the  iniss- 
ing  whalers  northtvestcrly  into  the  open  water,  while  a  heavy  bddy  of 
ice  south  of  them  prevented  all  escape. 

From  the  date  last  named,  until  the  sailing  of  the  "  Corwiu "'  I'ldiii 
Ounalaska,  October  2,  for  San  Francisco,  the  ship  cruised  almost  witli- 

*  Mr.  Xewcomb,  the  nat,ui;>list  of  tlio  "  Jonniiette,"  in  Iiis  vohiino  of  "Our  I,ost 
Explorers,"  (iiiotcs  from  Mr.  A'.'illiam  ISnidford  of  San  Francisco,  the  folhjwitm  iniliapiiy 
note  of  an  hitcrvicw  at  that  i)()rt  between  the  captain  of  tlie  "  Mount  Woilaston  "'  and  lieu- 
tenant DcLoni,'.  '•  A  sli(  rt  time  before  Lieutenant  DeLong's  departure,  I  suggested  to  him 
tliat  W(!  call  together  all  the  whaling  captains  then  in  port  —  most  of  whom  I  knew  well 
personally — and  avail  ourselvi!s  of  whatever  information  their  experitnci;  niiglii  at'tdnl 
and  suggestions  they  might  have  to  make.  He  accepted  the  idea  and  arranged  tlic  inect- 
ing,  and  they  all  attended.  One  by  one  they  gave  their  opinions,  mainly  upon  tlu'  imiut 
of  their  greatest  interest,  the  probable  direction  of  the  winds  and  currents  at  the  timo. 
wluMi  Lieutenant  DeLong  expected  to  reach  Wrangell  Land.  But  there  was  one  aiiKiii;; 
them  who  kept  ominously  silent,  not  venturing  an  opinion  or  offering  a  suggest idu.  I 
finally  said  :  '  Captain  Nye  has  not  given  us  his  opinion,  and  we  would  like  to  hear  fiom 
him.'  lie  said  :  'Gentlemen,  there  isn't  much  to  be  said  abont  this  matter.  Yon.  Lieu- 
tenant DeLong.  have  a  very  strong  vessel,  have  you  not  ?  —  magnificently  e(|uip]H'd  for  tiic 
service,  witli  unexceptionable  crew  and  aids.  And  you  will  take  plenty  of  provisions  ;inil 
all  the  coal  you  can  carry?'  To  each  of  these  questions,  as  it  was  askeil,  Licntenant 
DeLong  replied  affirmatively.  '  Then,'  said  Captain  Nye,  "put  her  into  the  ice  and  li'l  ln'r 
drift,  and  you  may  get  through,  or  you  may  go  to  the  devil,  and  the  chances  are  ulmut 
equal.'  Poor  Captain  Xye  !  lie  ventured  in  there  after  Lieutenant  DeLong  —  into  tlioso 
same  Arctic  regions,  in  the  prosecution  of  his  enterprise  as  a  whaler  —  and  wns  never 
lieard  of  again.  lie  was  from  New  Bedford,  Mass.,  was  one  of  the  oldest,  bravest  a  iil 
best  men  in  the  service,  and  there  was  no  man  sailing  to  the  frigid  seas  who  knew  ninre  nf 
their  perils  than  he  who  made  that  ominous  forecast  of  the  probable  fate  of  the  '.han- 
nette,'  if  not  of  her  commander." 


i 


KING  S    ISLAND. 


483 


out  delay  lor  the  ice-tloes  or  for  rest  to  her  crew,  sleaiuiug  over  six 
tliousand  miles  in  the  Arctic  Ocean,  without  gaining  any  tidings  of  the 
missing  vessels.     July  0,  Captain  Hooper  coiuuiunicated  with  tiie  na- 
tives of  Ki'     's   Island,  about  thirty  miles  so  ith-southeast    from    the 
Dioniedes,  w/ich  lie  in  lat.  {'Y  88'  4U",  long.  l(ii°  41'.     The  island  is 
iilxmt  seven  liundred  fevt  Inp-h,  with  almost  puipendicular  basalt  cli.'f.., 
on  the  sunu  it  ot  which  were  tound  a  niniber  of  stone  columns  re- 
;(  nbli'ig  tlie  remains  of  son"-  old  feudal  castle.     The  ofHcers  of  the 
••('orwin  "  climbed  the  steep  cliif  which  rises  from  the  sea  at  an  angle 
of  about  45°,  and  on  wliich  the  village  of  the  island  was  found  to  be 
coninoscd  of  about  forty  houses  ;    some  excavated  in  the  sides  of  the 
cliir,  others  n>ade  of  walrus  skin  stretched  on  j)oles  secured  to  the  rocks 
outside.     vSome  of  these  houses  are  two  hundred  feet  above  the  watei'. 
The  natives  of  this  Arctic  Gibraltar  are  very  expert  with  the  kayak.     - ; 
is  saiil  that  when  the  surf  is  breaking  against  the  perpendicular  side     ^' 
the  island,  should  it  be  necessary  to  launch  a  canoe  for  any  purpose, 
the  native  who  is  to  embark  takes  his  seat  in  his  kayak  as  near  thf-    "vf 
as  lie  can  approach  witli  safety,  secures  his  waterproof  shirt  made  of 
the  intestines  of  the  walrus  to  the  rim  of  ihe  hatch,  grasps  his  [.'addle, 
and  w. itching  a  favoral)le  opportunity,  gives  a  signal  to  two  men  who 
stand  in  readiness,  and  is  thrown   entirely  clear  of   the   surf.      ''The 
kayaks  are  probably  the  finest  in  the  world,  but,  owing  to  >lie  rough 
.service  they  have  to  perform,  are  made  somewhat  heavier  than  those 
ill  use  in  Kotzebue  Sound,  and  are  covered  with  walrus  hide." 

From  King's  Island  the  ship  proceeded  to  St.  Michael's  and  thence 
to  Cape  Prince  of  Wales,  the  high,  ragged,  and  most  western  point  of 
the  North  American  Continent,  lat.  55°  33'  30",  long.  1(;7°  59'  10'.  July 
14tlu  she  was  at  Cape  Espenbei„'  on  the  western  side  of  Kotzebue 
Sound;  on  the  19th,  after  passing  Cape  Kensenstern  she  headed  for 
point  Hope,  from  which  she  endeavored  to  start  north  again,  but  found 
it  impossible  to  penetrate  the  ice. 

On  the  22d,  the  southen^t  gal(>s  having  driven  the  pack  northward, 
she  itMuided  Cape  Lisburne,  where  she  found  the  "Mary  and  Helen" 
(at'terwards  the  "Rodgers"  of  Lieutenant  Berry's  Relief  Expedition), 
which  had  taken  eight  whales.    East  of  Cape  Lisburne  a  valuable  coal 


iii 


f'  iii 


N 


■>•", 


iiii 


:ii|  I  ..  :,.t 


iiitii 


»  i 


'f 


434 


AMKI.'ICAN     l',\IM,<)I!.\ri()NS    IN    Till:    H'l",    /ONI'.S. 


(lopdsit  was  visiltMl,  Int.  tlS"  .")()'  N.,  I.uil,'.  I<il'.">.')  W.  "Thr  v(iii.  ,,f 
0(.;il  (»ii  llic  fiU'd  dl"  llir  clill'  fiiii  1»<'  scrii  tlistiiiclly  ;it  llic  distaiu'i  ,,( 
oiif  mile,  aiitl  tliiMf  is  j^dtxl  iiiicliornijt'  uii!.  ;i  sniitliciiv  wind  wiilin, 
hair  a.  mile   dI"  llu'    sIkuc    in    Iniii'    lallmms  of   walcr   and    laic   liuMiip^r 


J^lollIHl. 


On  lIic  '-'Mil  tlic  slii|»  was  in  lal .  7<>"  Till'  N.  :  Inn;;'.  17."»'  <»  •".  \\',, 
oiil\  ll.iii  lv-ti\e  miles  iVoni  Herald  Island,  Itnl  CMnld  nui  kmcIi  ii  |,,i  il,,, 
solid  |iaek,  and  stood  a^'aiii  soutliwaid.  .\ni;iisl  I,  Herald  l;-,|,ii|,i 
was  a^ain  made,  heaiiiii;'  west  li\  ikhIIi  liairiiorlli  In  eonijiass.  di^laiii 
ahoul  lirnl\-li\i'  miles,  ami  1  lie  ship  woiked  lowaid  il  ihion-h  iw 
dtil'i  iee  iinlil  il  was"  indi;-ed  lo  lie  hiit  tweiilv  miles  distani,  \\||,.|| 
liiidim;'  il  impossihio  to  |iroeeed  rnrlher,  the  iee  |iael\inu' close  arunini 
till'  \essel,  anil  a  diMise  I'oij'  .Miirtin'4'  down  oxer  the  island,  ii  wk 
deemed  nnsai'e  (o  remain  loiiu'er.  \\'liiU'  in  si^ht  ol'  the  island  a  Indl,. 
oni  was  ki>|)t  iVom  the  masthead  in  the  hope  ol  seeiii;.;' smoke  or  sninc 
siLTii  indieat  iin;'  t  he  pit'st-nee  of  human  beings,  not  hiii<_;' coiild  In  -^ccii. 
A  Polar  moiistei'  woij^hini;"  111  least  two  thonsaiid  pounds  was  slmi  hy 
('aplaiii  Hooper. 

Kee|'iii'4  to  the  sonlhwai'd  aloiin"  th(>  iee  pack  in  loiiij.  17ii'  I.V. 
Hooper  tried  to  aset'itaiii  il'  it  were  possible  to  u'et  around  its  sonllicin 
p,.inl  and  np  to  thesonthern  extremity  of  Wraii'^cll  Land.  A  dnisr 
i'o;4-  ]M'e\enled  him  iVom  th'terminini;'  sat  isl'aetorilv  tlu'  eonditioii  ol'  ihr 
ieo  in  the  straits  lieiwceii  \Vraiii;'ell  Land  and  the  coasts  of  Asia,  liul  lie 
was  salislied  that,  had  there  hecn  no  I'oi;',  he  I'lMild  not  \v,i\r  nMchnl 
Wranui'U  Land. 

.\n14nsi  IT.  Herald  Island  was  a^'ain  schmi  bi-ariniL!,-  sontli-sonili\v-.i 
ahont  se\('ri  miles  :  and  on  the  'JOth  the  ship  hanlecl  np  for  it,  sleaiiuii:'- 
in  the  iee  ahont  six  miles,  when  she  was  stopju'd  by  a,  solid  harrier  •'(' 
n!d)r(d;tMi  iee  cxlemlinL;'  neai'ly  north  and  south,  and  fidni  twehc  i^i 
I'oilN  I'ciM  in  height.  After  examininti'  the  island  vt'iy  carelullx  willi 
the  '_;Iass  t'rom  a  distance  of  only  thi'ce  «)r  lour  inih>s.  ami  assnrinL;'  liim- 
self  ol"  the  impossibility  of  there  beiiij^  any  human  l)ein<:fs  on  it.  ("a|i- 
tain  Hooper  worked  his  way  back  to  elenr  water. 

The  sides  of  Herald  Island  were  S(Mmi  as  ])orpendienlar  clilts  ciuli; 
huiulred  feet  high,  its  top.  then  covered  with  clouds,  is  said  lo  he  si\ 


i:s. 


''I'll!'  Vt  ill-  nf 
lie  tlislaih'  nf 
y  w  iml  w  ii  Imu 
III    lair    hni'liii'^r 

it:,  u  ••.  w.. 

rcicli  ii  li'i  ilir 
Herald     I.I.iipI 

nlll|ia>s.    (Ii  -I, lilt 

llir(iii';li  ,i\v 
;  distaiil.  wlii'ii 
\]ir  close  arnlliiil 

[•  islaiitl,  ii  \\.i> 
•  islaiiil  a  liMiK- 
>•  r;mi'l\('  nr  snuic 

o-  Coulil    lu-  M'l'll. 

lids  was  shot  liY 

loiiLj.  ITti'  !•>. 
mid  its  SDiil  lu'i'ii 
Land.  A  del'-.' 
(•Diiditiiiii  ol  ilir 
s  ol'  Asia,  luit  hr 
u)t  iiavi'  iiMclii'il 

SiiUtll-SMlllllW  '--i 

)  I'or  il.  slcamiii.;' 
soTkI  lianicr  "( 
from  iwclvc  1" 
rv  cand'ullx  willi 
lid  assiirini;'  liim- 
i'iii>Ts  on  il.  <';M'- 

icnlav  dill's  'iuli' 
is  said  to  lu'  si\ 


-   '/ 


f 


I 


Jlli 


■J 

:?  i'.  (! 


)       . 


m 


4  jiiii 


486 


AMKinrAN    KXPLOUATIONS    IN    TIIF,    ICK   Z(»fK.S. 


hundred  iV'cl  lii^dnT.  Hooper  (|nol('s  ('ii|itiiiii  Kellcd,  K.  N.,  ulm  (,|, 
diseovtu'iiijjf  it  on  his  voyiij^e  in  (lu!  "  IFcrald"  in  IS  111,  succeeded  milv 
in  ^('(tin^f  ii  foothold  on  ii  jirojei'tin}^  rock,  us  (loserihing  the  ishiml  i,, 
he  four  and  a  ludf  miles  in  i>xtent  east  and  west,  and  two  and  n  I,;, if 
north  and  soiitii,  in  tlic  shape  of  a  trianj^le  almost  inac(^essil)lc  on  all 
sides,  and  a  sidid  mass  of  <;ianite. 

Most  uidia|)py  antieii)ations  wen;  forced  iipon  the  "Corwin"  (,{' 
the  experiences  wliicli  the  jouinal  of  the  "Jeannette"  lias  since  ic- 
vealed  as  facts  in  her  history.  The  icy  harrier  snrroundiuL,'  Ih,. 
island  was  nnhroken  and  clearly  of  no  ret^ent  formation,  and  (';i|p. 
tain  Hooper  firndy  believed  that  the  ice  did  not  leave  the  island  ihc 
previous  year,  and  that  it  is  not  nnnsual  for  it  to  remain  even  two  up 
three  years  ;  that  it  rarely  breaks  up  between  the  islanil  and  Wiaii^ll 
Sound.    No  whaler  had  <jone  west  of  Herald  Island  the  previous  ycai'. 

After  toucliiiit^  at  Point  Belcher,  Icy  Cai)e,  Point  IJarrow,  iiml 
Point  Hojje,  on  Sei)tend)er  10,  the  "  Corwin "  passed  a  few  miles 
again  to  the  southward  of  Herald  Shoal,  and,  finding  the  sonilurn 
limit  of  the  northern  pack  so  changed  in  position  that  she  could  not 
get  as  far  North  by  iil'ty  miles  as  she  had  gone  the  23d  of  Aumist. 
followed  the  pack  southwest  until  the  high  hills  of  Wrangell  band 
were  in  clear  sight,  bearing  west,  one-fourth  south  (true;),  ('aptain 
Hooi)er  says:  — 

''That  part  of  Wrangell  Laud  seen,  covered  an  arc  of  the  horizon  df 
about  lifty  degrees,  from  northwest,  one-fourth  north  to  west,  one- 
fourth  south  (true),  and  was  distant  from  twenty-fiAr;  miles  on  llio 
former  bearing  to  thirty-five  or  forty  miles  on  the  latter.  On  the  sontli 
were  three  mountains  probably  three  thousand  feet  high,  entirely 
covered  with  snow,  the  central  one  presenting  a  conical  appearance 
and  the  others  showing  slightly  rounded  tops. 

"To  the  northward  of  these  mountains  was  a  chain  of  rounded  hills, 
those  near  the  sea  being  lower  and  nearlv  free  from  snow,  while  tlie 
back  hills,  which  probably  reach  an  elevation  of  two  thousar.d  fed. 
were  quite  white.  To  the  north  of  the  northern  bearing  given,  the 
land  ends  entirely  or  becomes  very  low.  The  atmosphere  was  veiy 
clear,  and  we  could  easily  have  seen  any  land  above  the  horizon  within 


UODIJKUH    IIAIIMOI:    A('('i;ssil»Lh. 


4:57 


;i  (listaiicn  of  sixty  (»r  scvriity  iiiiles,  Imt  imno  cxi-opt  tluil  (It'sciihud 
could  ln' soon  1'  'iii  llu'  iiiastliead.  ,  .  .  Tlioio  uro  nuinonius  roportM  of 
whalers  having  sih-ii  lliis  land,  and  having'  sailod  almi^  its  slioros 
wiili  no  ii:o  in  si^dil,  and  tlu'ir  tractks  and  positions  are  laid  down 
on  llio  Ai.  "fioan  llydro^^rapiiic;  Cliarl;  their  exact  position  lor  oaoli 
(l;iy  l)ein,<^  shown.  'V\\v  I'aet  that  the  whalers  koep  no  roekoninjjf, 
and  take  no  ohsurvations  wliilo  whaling-,  will  show  how  ntterly  lui- 
n-liahlo  thoso  tracks  must  be.  They  have  a  j^enijral  knowhid^i!  of 
the  j)art  of  tho  ocean  thoy  are  in,  and  k(!ep  a  close  run  of  the  ice 
pack.  'I'heir  (»l)ject  is  to  tako  whalos  and  to  this  th(!y  ^avt)  thoir 
whole  attention. 

"  Althouoh  it  is  )>nssil)h!  that  there  are  times  when  the  shores  of 
Wraii^i^ell  Land  are  free  from  icte,  it  is  still  vi-ry  donhtfid  ;  ,it  must 
ccrlainly  hi;  hut  seldom.  The  ar^'ument  is  advanced  that  I'oint  Uarrow, 
wliieh  is  some  miles  north  of  the  southern  limit  of  this  land,  is,  at 
linu's,  entiiely  free  from  ice,  and  that,  therefore,  Wrangell  Land  must 
also  he  free.  The  answer  to  this  is,  that  the  innnense  body  of  warm 
water  which  is  constantly  pourinjjj  thronj;h  Heriufj  Strait  into  the 
Ai'ctic,  washes  the  shores  of  Point  Harrow,  hut  does  not  pass  within 
two  hundred  and  tifty  nulcs  of  WiiUM^ell  Land.  The -viist  amount  of 
liciit  diffused  in  this  manner,  and  its  wonderful  effects  are  too  well 
known  and  understood  to  need  repetition  here.  I  believe,  however, 
tliiit  it  is  possible,  at  times,  for  a  strong  vessel,  properly  e(iuii)ped  and 
JitttMl,  to  make  her  way  inshore  far  euougli  to  reach  a  safe  harbor  among 
the  nrounded  ice,  within  easy  travelling  distance  of  the  land,  where  she 
could  remain  in  safety,  and  exploring  parties  be  sent  out  to  examine 
tiie  land.  (The  warm  current  spoken  of  here  has  been  shown  to  be 
temporary.) 

"•I  am  of  tlie  ojiinion  tl.  t  Wraufjell  Land  is  a  large  island  possibly 
of  ii  chain  that  jiasses  through  the  Polar  regions  to  (jreenland.  Cap- 
tain Keeiian,  then  conuuanding  the  bark  '.lames  Allen,'  reports  having 
seen  land  to  the  northward  of  Harrison  Uay,  a  few  degrees  east  of  I'oint 
Pun-row,  eightv  or  one  liundred  miles  north:  'When  the  foQ-  lifted  liich 
land  was  visible  to  the  northward  a  long  distance  away  but  j)erfeetlv 
distinct.'" 


f  :  i 


liitfi^^' 


I'll:' 


«  : 


1 1 


I    ii: 


I 


r  1 


438 


AMElllCAN   EXPL0KATI0N8    IN   THE  ICE  ZONES. 


This  report  will  be  noted  as  confirming  Lieutenant  De Long's  iouriKiI 
record  of  land  thus  believed  to  have  been  seen  to  the  north  when  he 
was  near  Herald  Lsland.     But  its  existence  is,  at  least,  questionable.* 

Bidding  farewell  to  Wrangell  Land,  the  "Corwin"  steamed  east- 
ward, reaching  Point  Iio])e  September  12,  Cape  Prince  of  Wales  on 
the  13th,  St.  Paul's  Island  the  21st,  and  Ounalaska  on  tlic  22d.  Ociu- 
ber  2,  she  set  sail  for  San  Francisco,  arriving  there  after  a  ([uiek  and 
favorable  run  of  ten  days.  She  was  forced  to  the  coiiclusion  Ihat 
the  missing  whalers  had  been  crushed  and  carried  north  in  the  pack. 
and  that  their  crews  had  perished.  DeLong,  Hooper  thought,  nii^iu 
be  safe. 

Two  other  objects  of  e([ual  importance  with  the  search  had  been 
accomplished:  one,  the  investigation  of  some  dangerous  shoals,  in 
regiuxl  to  wh'ch  (^aptain  Franklin,  Hydrographer  of  the  U.S.  Bureau 
of  Navigation,  had  asked  Cai)tain  Hooper's  attention  for  tlu;  correit- 
ness  of  some  coast  line  on  the  Ilydrographic  charts  ;  the  other,  the 
seizure  and  sending  to  the  United  States  several  vessels  found  engaged 
in  the  illicit  trade  of  supplying  the  natives  in  Alaska  Territory  with 

*  III  illustration  of  the  deeoptivc  appoaraiK^es  indicating  the  supj)ose(l  exibtence  of 
laiul.  Dr.  Iiosse,  the  surgeon  of  th(i  "  ("orwin"  says  :  — 

"Not  the  Irast  etu'ious  of  the  atniosplierie  pheuoniena  are  the  niodilications  of  nervous 
excitahility  ill  eonneetion  with  the  perception  of  light  —  the  wonderful  optical  illusions 
witnessed  from  time  to  time  during  periods  of  extraordinary  and  uneijual  refraction.  One 
day  in  .Inly,  at  St.  ^Michael's,  I  saw  on  looking  northward  an  island  high  up  in  the  air  Mml 
inverted  ;  some  distant  peaks,  invisible  on  ordinary  occasions,  loomed  up  and  at  one  time 
the  very  shape  of  a  tower-topped  building  magnified,  and  suddenly  changing,  assumed  tin' 
shape  of  immense  factory  chimneys.  Again,  off  Port  (Clarence,  was  witnessed  the  opliciil 
phenomenon  of  dancing  mountains  and  the  mirage  of  ice  fifty  miles  away,  which  (paused  our 
experienced  ice-pilot  to  say  :  'No  use  to  go  in  here,  don't  you  see  the  ice  !'  Again,  tin' 
nioimtains  of  Bering  Straits  have  so  betrayed  the  Imagination  that  they  have  been  M'i'n 
to  assume  the  most  fantastical  and  grotesque  shapes,  at  one  moment  that  of  a  monnl;iiii 
not  unlike  Table  Mountain,  off  the  f^upe  of  (rood  Hope;;  then  the  changing  dioranui  shows 
the  shape  of  an  immense  anvil,  followed  by  the  likeness  of  an  enormous  gun  niouniiil 
en  harbcttv,  the  whole  standing  out  in  silhouette  against  the  background,  while  looking 
in  an  opposite  direction  at  another  time  a  whaling  vessel,  turned  bottom  upward,  a])pe;u('ii 
in  the  sky.  On  .mother  occasion,  in  lat.  70°,  when  the  state  of  th(!  air  was  favorabli  in 
extraordinary  refraction,  a  white  gull  swinuning  on  the  water  in  the  distant  horizon  was 
taken  for  an  iceberg,  or  more  c(>rr(ctly  a  Uoe-bcrg;  other  gulls  in  the  distance,  looming  \\\k 
looked  for  all  the  world  like  white  tents  on  a  beach,  while  others  resembled  men  willi 
wiiite  sliirts  paddliuL,'  a  canoe. 


!il      lii 


NO    TCElJEIKiS. 


439 


wliiskey  and  ainimiiiition.  The  location  of  Point  Hope  was  found  by 
close  observations  to  be  laid  down  on  the  U.  S.  Hydrogia})hie  charts, 
seven  miles  t)f  longitude  too  far  west;  and  the  land  between  Cape 
Serdze  Kanien  and  Koliutehin  l^ay,  about  lit'teen  miles  too  far  to  tlie 

north. 


\v.\i 


rerritorv  with 


)oscd  exib::euce  of 


"THE    ICE   AMD    ITS    IIABITM. 

C'areful  observations  of  the  ice  formations  and  of  its  o])enings  in- 
(hiced  a  rei)ort  which  is  best  presented  in  Captain  Hooper's  own 
words.     He  says  of  the  ice  and  its  habits:  — 

"  Tn  that  part  of  the  Arctic  visited  by  the  'Corwin,'  the  ice  is 
(piite  different  from  that  in  the  vicinity  of  Greenland.  No  inunense 
icebergs  raise  their  frozen  peaks  linndreds  of  feet  in  the  air.  'I'he 
liii^hest  ice  seen  by  us  during  the  season  would  not  exceed  lift y  feet  in 
licigiit.  The  average  height  of  the  main  pack  is  fi-oin  ten  to  iifleen 
feet,  with  hummocks  that  rise  to  twenty  or  thirty  feet.  Occasionally, 
however,  iields  are  met  with  which  rise  forty  or  even  lifty  feet  above 
the  water.  The  sj)eciric  gravity  t)f  sea-ice  is  .01;  hence  only  about  a 
tenth  is  visible  above  the  surface  of  the  water.  A  iield  twenty  feet  in 
height  may  have  a  depth  of  nearly  two  hundred  feet.  This  enormous 
lliickness  is  caused  by  one  layer  being  forced  upon  another  by  the 
action  of  wind  and  current.  The  greatest  thickness  it  attains  by  freez- 
ing is  about  eighteen  feet;  at  tliat  de})th,  ice  ceases  to  be  a  conductor 
cl'  temperature.  The  maximum  dei)th  reached  in  a  single  winter  is, 
ac(!oi(ling  to  Parry,  Wrangell,  and  other  Arctic  travellers,  about  nine 
aiul  one-half  feet. 

"The  ice  of  the  Arctic  Ocean  is  never  at  rest.  Even  in  the  coldest 
winters  it  is  liable  to  displacement  and  })ressure  by  the  currents  of 
ail'  and  water.  The  ex|)ansions  and  contractions,  due  to  changes  in 
tcnii)erature,  also  assist  in  this  disturbance.  Owing  to  these  com- 
hincd  causes,  the  surface  of  the  ice  always  presents  a  rough,  luieven 
ajipearance. 

•'  Along  the  edge  of  the  pack,  during  the  summer,  is  generally  found 
a  helt  of  drift-ice,  varying  in  w  idth  according  to  the  direction  of  the 
wind.    Whcii  the  wind  blows  off  the  pack,  drift-ice  is  frequently  found 


440 


A.MKUICAN    EXPLORATIONS    IX    TIIK    ICE   ZONES. 


q  I 


m 


Mil; 


; 


mi 


.11 


fifteen  or  twenty  miles  IVoni  the  luuin  body.  At  times  the  pack  itself 
opens  in  leads,  by  which  it  may  be  penetrated  for  several  miles.  In 
ventnriiig  within  the  liiuits  of  the  [)ack,  however,  a  shar[)  watch  must 
be  kejtt  on  the  movements  of  the  ice  and  a  retreat  made  at  the  liist 
indication  of  its  closing. 

"iV  vt'ssi'l  l)esct  in  the  pack  is  as  helpless  as  if  she  were  as  far  inland. 
wliil(!  tluTc  is  iiuiuinent  danger  of  being  crushed  at  any  moment. 

"  When  the  wind  blows  on  the  [)ack,  the  drift-ice  becomes  as  cidse 
as  the  })ack  itself.  ... 

"  The  '  barrier,'  or  that  part  of  the  ice  Avhich  does  not  break  iqi. 
varies  slightly  in  position  from  year  to  year,  but  generally  may  be 
looked  lor  near  Icy  Cape  during  September.  It  extends  Avesterly  as 
far  as  Herald  Shoal,  where  it  takes  a  northwesterly  direction  to  the 
vicinity  of  Herald  Island.  Here,  in  August  and  September,  a  lane  of 
open  water  is  generally  found  extending  to  the  northward.  This  sjiaie 
is  at  first  lilled  with  broken  ice.  On  our  second  attempt  to  reach  ihe 
island,  we  steamed  U})  this  lane  over  fifty  miles,  with  the  pack  in  sit^ht 
from  the  masthead  on  ]n)i\i  sides.  The  last  twenty  miles  we  wciv 
com])elled  to  force  our  way  through  drift-ice. 

"As  stated  elsewhere,  the  ice-barrier  extends  several  degrees  iurllier 
south  between  Point  Barrow  and  Wrangell  Land,  than  in  any  other 
part  of  the  Arctic  regions." 


THE    INN  FITS. 

Of  the  ap})earance,  character,  and  habits  of  the  natives  of  these 
regions  of  which  little  has  been  known,  the  Reports  of  this  and  of  the 
next  cruisi'  of  the  "•Corwin"  furnish  interesting  data,  additional  \o 
those  su[)plied  by  the  late  Captain  Hailey  of  the  "Rush,"  Cajitain 
lieardslee,  U.S.  N.,  Mr.  Dall  of  the  IT.  S.  Coast  Siu'vey,  and  Mr.  ''^lliiitt 
and  other  (»bservers  for  the  Smithsonian  and  the  Signal  Service.  Tluir 
labors  and  the  results  are  accredited  in  the  Rejjorts  of  tlu>  Smithsonian. 

In  the  Re])oi't  ol'  this  first  cruise.  Captain  lIoo])er  notes  some 
peculiarities  of  the  ('oast  Indians,  and  some  diversities  among  them 
in  regard  to  their  habits  as  compared  with  those  of  the  Interior 
j'nd   with    the    Eskimos   of   the    East   Coast   of  North   America,     lie 


THE    "BADAllKA. 


441 


le  pack  itself 
'ill  iiiik's.  Ill 
[)  watch  luiisi 
(le  at  the  Ihst 

as  far  inland. 
loineiit. 
oomes  as  close 

not  break  i'.|i. 
orally  may  be 
ds  westerly  as 
rectioii  to  the 
liber,  a  lane  of 
(I.  This  s]iaef 
)t  to  reach  liie 
e  pack  in  sii;lii 
miles  we  were 

legrees  uirtluM' 
1  in  any  other 


itives  of  these 
this  and  of  tlie 
additional  \o 
nsh,"  Ciii)tain 
uid  Mr.  ■'^llintt 
orvice.  Tlu  '.v 
e  Smithsonian, 
n-  notes  soiiif 
s  amont?  them 
f  the  Interior 
America.     He 


says  of  the  natives  of  Nouiiivah  Island,  rarely  visited  by  traders  on 
ai'count  of  shallow  waters  along  the  coast,  that  the  inhabitants  lai! 
away  to  the  hills  at  his  a[)proach;  the  next  day,  however,  he  succeedeil 
ill  capturing  one  man,  three  women  and  three  children,  all  much  alarmed 
with  the  expectation  of  being  killed.  Their  fears  were  quieted  by  a 
present  of  tobacco,  and  the  man  was  persuaded  to  come  on  board,  and 
si'(  iiied  much  interested  in  all  he  saw,  a  looking-glass  astonishing  him 
iiidic  than  all  else,  lirst  alarming  and  then  amusing  lain,  lie  did  not 
|<ii(i\v  the  use  (d"  bi'andy  or  whiskey,  s])itting  them  out  in  disgust, 
rmting  his  hands  on  the  stove  he  seemed  astonished  that  it  buriuMJ 
liiiii.  and  tried  it  a  second  time.  The  ten  houses  of  the  settlement  are 
liiiili  of  mud  and  connected  by  an  underground  passage;  a  common 
(■nuance  and  the  only  one,  is  a  covered  way  in  the  centre  of  the  circle 
ill  which  they  are  built,  short  branches  running  oiV  to  the  separate 
juiii>es. 

"The  badarka  in  use  differs  somewhat  from  that  used  by  the  Aleu- 
liaii  Islanders  ;  the  I'ormer  is  shorter  and  has  more  beam,  and  is  made 
til  lairy  only  one  person.  The  natives  venture  out  in  all  kinds  of 
\viaiher.  but  always  in  pairs,  never  going  singly.  Like  the  Aleutian 
Island  badarkas,  these  are  made  of  skin,  seal  or  sea-lion,  drawn  over  a 
li^lil  frame  of  wood,  with  a  small  round  hole  in  the  to]),  in  which  the 
native  sits  and  paddles,  ami  from  which  he  shoots  or  sjjcars  game. 
Wlit'ii  night  conies  on,  he  draws  his  badarka  on  the  ice,  crawls  down 
niit  111' sight,  and,  wrapping  himself  in  his  'parkie,'  or  fur  slp'"t,  goes  to 
.nIccji.  They  carry  their  ritlcs  and  a  supply  of  seal-meat  inside  the 
liadaika,  and  their  spears  and  sled  lashed  on  the  to]) ;  thus  e(iuii)i)ed, 
tlii\  are  ])re])ared  for  land  or  water  travel.  If  caught  in  a  gale  they 
lasli  iwo  badarkas  together  and  ride  it  out  in  safety." 

Of  the  Eskimos  of  tin'  North  Ameriean  coast,  he  says:  — 
•■These  Innuits  (by  which  name  only  these  ])eo])le  know  each  other) 
are  totally  unlike  the  Eskimos  described  in  books  of  travel,  being  tall 
iiiiil  muscular,  many  of  them  over  six  fei't  in  height  ;  one  at  Cape  Mru- 
znisU'rii  fully  six  feet  six  inches.  Their  lemarkable  ])hysieal  deveht])- 
innil  seems  due  to  a  mixture  with  the  Indians  of  the  interior,  those 
liviii;^  on   the  Yukon  and  Tenneuah    Kivers  and  other  places,  having 


442 


AMERICAN    EXPLORATIONS    IN    THE    ICE   ZONES. 


i^i^iii**  ^ 


i  I  II 


long  muscular  limbs  and  erect  figures,  showing  courage,  strength,  und 
endurance.  Like  all  aborigines,  the  men  are  lazy  and  compel  the 
women  to  perform  all  the  manual  labor  ;  Captain  Hv)oper  saw  twd 
women  each  with  a  child  on  her  back,  drawing  a  thirty  foot  net  (uv 
salmon,  while  the  men  stood  by  smoking,  without  offering  to  assist, 
although  it  was  evident  the  task  was  too  much  for  the  women. 

"The  seal  may  be  called  their  main  stay,  the  flesh  and  oil  form  the 
chief  article  of  subsistence,  the  skin  furnishes  clothing,  tents,  and 
boats;  cut  into  thongs,  it  is  used  for  making  nets  for  catching  lish  and 
birds.  The  oil  is  burned  in  lamps  which  light  and  warm  the  tiipiks 
during  the  long,  dark  winter  nights. 

"They  hunt  seals  on  the  ice  in  the  s[)ring  and  fall,  and  show  thoni- 
selves  mai'veis  of  patience,  lying  flat  on  the  ice  for  hours,  waiting  lor  a 
seal  to  ai)pear.  The  seal  is  very  shy,  and  seldom  moves  far  from  tho 
liole  in  the  ice,  which  they  keep  open  by  scratching.  The  liuntor 
approaches  cautiously,  by  crawling  over  the  ice,  his  body  nearly  pros- 
trate, raised  slightly  on  one  elbow.  He  has  a  piece  of  bear-skin,  ahoiu 
two  feet  long  and  a  foot  wide,  which  he  attaches  to  his  leg  on  the  side 
ui)on  which  he  rests;  this  enables  him  to  slide  more  easily  over  tlio  ice. 
The  elbow  rests  upon  a  ring  of  grass.  Ho  carries  a  stick,  to  wlii(di  is 
attached  the  claw  of  some  animal  or  bird,  to  use  in  imitating  the 
scratching  of  the  seal  on  the  ice.  In  the  other  hand  he  sujiports  his 
rille,  in  readiness  for  instant  use. 

"  In  hunting  whales  the  natives  use  the  '  oomiak.'  They  use  spears. 
with  heads  of  Hint  or  walrus  ivory,  pointed  with  iron;  the  pole  is 
about  six  feet  long,  and  attached  to  it  by  a  line  of  seal-thongs  is  a 
seal-skin  poke.  A  number  of  these  spears  being  thrown  into  the 
whale,  the  pokes  prevent  him  from  going  far  below  the  surface,  and 
enable  the  hunters  to  track  him,  and  be  on  hand  to  kill  him  when  he 
comes  up  to  breathe.  The  carcass,  including  flesh  and  blubber,  is  used 
for  foo(\  M'ld  is  the  property  of  every  man,  woman,  and  child  in  the 
settlement;  il  o  })jne,  however,  belongs  to  those  who  took  part  in  the 
capture.  The  niiixillarv  bones  of  the  whale  are  cut  into  strijis  used 
for  sho'  liis;'  tlvi  runiior;'.  of  their  sledsri,  and  for  this  purpose  are  said  to 
be  superior  tu  iron  or  ;-*\3el. 


A  TRAVELLING   FAMILY. 


443 


••These  natives  are  nomadic  in  their  habits  ;  altliough  tliey  liave  win- 
ter-houses, to  Avhich  tliey  return  each  fall,  they  travel  all  summer. 
TliL-ir  manner  of  travelling  is  peculiar  to  themselves;  they  use  tlie 
ooiiiiak,  in  which  is  stowed  everything  belonging  to  the  entire  family, 
except  the  working-dogs. 

"This  oomiak  is  a  boat  built  of  walrus-hide  or  seal-skin  drawn  over  a 
wnudvn  frame  about  thirty  feet  long,  six  feet  wide,  and  two  and  a  half 
feet  deep.  The  frame  is  fastened  with  seal-skin  thongs,  and  made  with 
slip-joints,  to  allow  it  to  work  in  a  sea-way.  They  are  flat-bottomed, 
sharp  at  both  ends,  and  witii  very  little  shear.  The  men  use  paddles 
and  I  he  women  oars;  they  carry  a  square  sail.  An  ordinary  oomiak 
iMiitains,    in  addition    to    the   stock-  « 

in-trade  of  oil,  skins,  etc.,  a  tent  of  / — ^  ')') 

drilling    or    deer-skin,    guns,    traps, 
spoars,  bows  and  arrows,  a  kayak,  a 
seal-skin    poke    filled  with   water,   a    g^k: 
quantity  of  dried  meat,  a  sled,  sev- 
eral  pairs  of  snow-shoes,  a  fish-net,       ZZL 
liiid   several   smaller   nets  for  catch- 
inij  birds,  a   large   drum  on   a   pole 
f(ir  the  nse  of  the  'shaman,'  and  several  seal-skin  bags  containing  skin 
cldtliing. 

"On  first  approaching  a  vessel,  one  native  stands  up  in  the  bow  of 
the  oomiak,  and  extends  his  arms  at  full  length,  raises  them  until  the 
hands  meet  above  the  head,  then,  with  the  arms  still  extended,  he  drojis 
them  to  his  side.  This  he  repeats  several  times,  each  time  saying 
Miakournck'  (good).  If  the  same  sign  is  made  in  return,  they  ap- 
ptiiaeli  the  vessel  at  once  without  fear;  if  not  answered,  tiie}'  approai 
rautiously,  from  time  to  time  repeating  the  sign. 

"The  personnel  consists  of  three  or  four  men,  about  as  many  women. 
md  two  or  three  children.  Add  to  these  two  or  three  dogs,  each  with 
'.  litter  of  pu]ipies,  and  some  idea  may  be  formed  of  what  a  travelling 
(iiiniiak  contains. 

''The  working-dogs  are  often  left  on  the  beach  to  follow  on  foot. 
^vlli(■ll  (liev  do,  keeping  up  a  continual  and  most  dismal  howl.     If  tha 


OOMIAK. 


f;*: 


!. 


it- 

i 

f 


,  lli 

■1- 


i  1 


lii 


'1 

I- 


\h    ).*., 


t  p' 


■III 


444 


AMKKK^AN    KXI'h<)i:ATI()>'S    IN    TIIK    ICIO   ZONKS. 


wind  (■(lilies  in  al;;'ii(l,  and  tlu;  iiiitivcs  desire,  l'i>r  any  roiisoii,  to  cnuijiim, 
their  journey,  tliey  |iaddl(!  in  near  tiie  sliori',  liarnes';  their  dii';.>,  ,,inl 
attacli  them  to  Ihi^  ooniiak,  alter  the  manner  of  a  eanal-lioai  and  hiii'S('.> 
sellh'  1  lieiiisel  ves  in  the  boat,  and  sayint;'  *  nakouriiek,'  (^j^'oodl)  ..,,  ,,,1 
their  way  at  the  rate  ot"  Tour  or  live  miU^s  an  hour,  with  no  other  clfnn 
ihan  steering-  with  the  [uuldle,  wonderiiii;',  piobahly,  why  whih  hkh 
will  huild  'ooniiak-iKiks,'  (^liirL,^!  vossols),  when  tlu!  native  style  ,,(' 
travel  is  so  nineh  more  siiii|ile  and  ijconomicai.  When  they  \vi>li  in 
sto;;  I'or  a  iiin'ht  or  (hiy,  they  land,  pitch  their  tent,  take  e\ crylliiii'.;  ,,iii 
ol"  till'  ooiiiiak,  and  turn  it  up  (Ui  tiie  heacii,  where  they  are  (|iiiic  ;i^ 
niiieh  at  home  as  in  their  winter-houses;  men,  women,  eliildicii,  and 
(hii;s  rormino-  n  happy,  noisy,  dirty  ramily.  'I'lu'V  I'at  when  tlie\  iccj 
hii.ii>;iy,  whieli  seems  to  he  nearly  all  tlu^  time,  and  sleep  wilhoui  r("_;;iii| 
to  lime.  The  do^s  eat  when  tiiey  can,  and  steal  anything  they  can  <;ci 
their  tct'th  through.' 

L.v\(il^\(!K. 

"The  native  ]an>jfuaj;'('  dillers  very  materially  in  dilVerent  localities. 
Our  iiiterpieler  ['nmx  St.  Mie'iael's  was  of  no  use  to  us  north  of  Kut- 
/.ehiie  Sound,  and  even  there  i*  was  dil'licult  for  him  to  niKh'i'staiid  thr 
dialc;  t.  The  chancre  is  g'radual.  .Vteacli  settliuucMit,  IVoin  Cape  I'ljiui' 
of  Wales  north,  we  ol)serv(>d  a  slij;'ht  diflerence;  the  sound  (»f  wmds 
changed  so  as  to  be  almost  uure(  i  ^nizable,  or  the  words  wei'e  (liiipjifil 
eiitirely  and  new  ones  substitiit-Ml,  until  almost  an  entire  chaiim'  liinl 
been  ei'l'octed  in  the  lanii^uap^e ;  so  that  a,  vocabulary  made  at  Cape 
I'lihce  of  \Vales  would  bi'  almost  useless  at  l^oint  no])e.  and  entirely 
so  a.  Icy  Cape  or  I'oiiit  Harrow.  A  lew  substantives  alone  remain  the 
same  all  alontr  the  coast.'' 


Sm^ERSTITIONS. 

"The  religious  belief  of  the  Innuit  is  of  a  crude,  indefnute  natuie.  to 
the  ei'ftu^t  that  there  is  a  Power  which  rewards  good  Iiinuits  ami  pui]- 
ishes  bad  ones,  after  death,  b.y  sending  them  to  different  ])lac(>s.  At 
some  localities  tiiey  told  us  tliat  tlu  good  went  to  a  ]>laee  above,  wliiio 
at  otliers  it  was  thouglit  that  the  place  was  below.     Thcj'  have  only  a 


ill'. 


sri'intsTiTioN. 


445 


oil,   t(P    Cnlil  iiim, 
lu'ir     lln'_;.>,  .iiiil 

iMt  and  li(ir,s<'.->. 

(,<4'n(.tl  !)    M,,   ,,|| 

iH)  (itin'f  ('Hull 

^liy  while  III, 'II 
liltive   slyli'  (if 

I'll   tllt'V  \vi>li   hi 

('Vi'ryiliiii;^-  ,iiu 
L'y  ui'o  1 1  III  I  ('  a.-, 
1,  cliildrriu  and 

Wlll'll     tlu'V    l\'c| 

witlioiil  ic'aril 


11^'  they  ran  l;'('1 


iM'cnt  Idciilitics. 
;  iioi'lli  (if  Kdl- 
uiulcrstand  tlir 
om  ( 'ape  I'l  iiui' 
«()iuul  of  wolds 
s  were  dr(i]i|it'd 
ire  idianu'e  had 
iniule  at  Cajie 
ie,  and  cniiii'iy 
huio  remain  tlif 


dinite  nature,  to 
limits  and  puii- 
ent  jdaees.  At 
ee  above,  wliiie 
lie\-  have  only  a 


iniifiised  i(h'a  cd'  the  siiltje(d,  howevei',  uiid  seemed  anxious  {<>  avidd 
s|i,akiii^i;  of  it  any  more  than  wris  neeessiiry.  'Idudr  Ixdiid'  evi(h'idiv 
icarlies  nothing  (d"  tnit hfulness,  honesty,  (»r  other  vdrtii(',  or  thiit  citiiin- 
lli 


iiicss  IS  next  to  •'•odiintiss 


"•Shanuuiism  "  is  folhiwed  hy  all  those  iKiojile,  uml,  notuithslanding 
he  nni'ierons  (ricdis  praelised   upon    lluun,  they  st-em    (o   have   impli(dt 


I'.iilh  III  I 


\\(M' 


t.     i'Acn  th 


'Sl 


le  'sliumans    themsidves  siiovv  iin  e;lrn(!stnes^,  in  llndr 


lial  makes  us  wonder,  niter  idl,  ii'  there  is  not  some  virtue   in    il, 
\Vr;in,i;rll,  who  seems  t(t  have  t^^iven  the  suhjeid  sonu!  adcntion,  says: 

••  ddie  'shamans '  have  been  representee!  as  l)(dnt;'  uni\ crsalh'  mere 
knavish  dceidvers,  and  no  douht  this  is  true  ol'  many  of  them  who  L,n» 
iiliuiit  th(^  eoiinliT  exhihitinn'  all  kinds  of  jii^oiint;'  lii(d<s  l(t  tditain 
|insciits:  hut  the  history  oi"  md  a  lew  is,  I  Ixdicvc,  wry  diirereiit. 
(Vrlain  individuals  are  horn  ^\itll  ardent  imaginations  and  ex(dtahle 
iiciM'S.  They  n'low  U]i  amid  a  ^cncral  h(di(d'  in  ^'hosts,  'shamans,"  and 
iin.^lcrioiis  ])owers  e.\er(dsed  hy  the  latter.  The  erediilous  youth  is 
^timiuiy  alTi  i'tcd,  and  aspires  to  participate  in   these  supernatural   >"i)in- 


inil 


inicatiiUis  and  nowers,  hut  no  <uie  v.Wi  teiudi   him    how  he  can 


ill'  retires,  thercd'ore.  from    his   lellows 


iiiiaL'ination    is   powcrfnlly 


WMinlij,  upon  hy  S(dilu(le,  hy  the  contemplat ion   of  the   t^'loomy  asjicct 
irroundinij,'  nature,  hy  lout;'  vigils  und  hists,  and  \)y  (he   use  of  nar- 
and    stimulants,   until   he  heeomcs  persuaded  that  he,   too,  lias 
t!ie  mysterious  apparitions  of  whieh   he  has   lieard    iVom    his  hoy- 


i|     M 


'Ml' 


II 


e   is   then  r(>e(Mved  as  a  '  s 


>ham 


111,    with   many  ceremonies  {)er- 


I'einieil  in  the  silence  and  darlcness  of  tlie  uii;'1it  ;  is  given  the  magic 
'Iniiii.  etc.  Still  all  his  aidions  eontinue,  as  hehtre,  to  he  the  result  (d' 
ills  indi\idual  (diaracder.  A  true  'shaman,'  theridbre,  is  not  an  ordi- 
lec(dvei'.  hut  rather  a  ])sy(diologi(!al  phenomenon,  h}'  no  means 
thy  of  attention.  Always,  after  secdiig  them  o])erate,  they  haxc 
nil   my   mind   a   long-contimu'd   and   gloomy   inipi 


I  \'  ( 


lIlWiil 


■essi(m  ;  the   wild 

!"ek.  iju>  bloodshot  ey(\  the  laboring  breast,  the  convulsive  utterance, 
die  si'emingly  iuvoluiitaiy  distortion  of  the  face  and  whole  body,  tlie 
>treaiiiiiig  hair,  the  li(dlow  sound  of  the  drum  —  all  conspired  to  pro- 
liiie  the  effect;  and  I  can  well  concidve  that  these  sliould  aj)])ear  to 
the  ignorant  and  superstitious  savage  as  the  work  of  evil  spirits." 


446 


AMEIMCAN    EXPLOUATIONS    IN    Till-:    ICH   ZONKS. 


'M 


Ml 
m 


11 


"While  walking  aroiiiKl  the  viUuge,"  says  Hooper,  "we  wore  iiiilifiiH] 
that  a  sick  man  occupied  one  of  the  lenls,  and  that  a  'shaman'  was  then 
engaiL^cd  in  an  attempt  to  drive  out  the  evil  spirit  which  laid  [tosscsscd 
him.  We  were  reciuested  not  to  go  to  that  i)art  of  the  village,  as  it  iiijtrht 
have  a  had  (^flect.  1  told  them  that  onr  surgeon,  who  was  i)reseiit,  was 
a  \shaman,"  and  askiul  ihem  to  allow  him  to  see  the  sick  man,  and  holil 
a  consultation  with  the  'shaman.'  Alter  sonu;  persuasion,  tliey  cdi,. 
sented  to  ask  the 'shaman' if  such  an  arrangement  would  he  anicc- 
ahle  to  him,  ami  one  of  them  advanced  alom;  to  the  sick  man's  lent. 
Ih;  returned  after  a  l'(!W  nunutes,  and  said  we  might  go  as  far  as  tlic 
entrance,  hut  must  remain  outside.  The  sick  man  was  hrouglil  to  the 
entrance,  and  found  to  hc!  suffering  from  |)aralysis  of  the  left  side  and 
a  skin  disease.  lIi;  was  a  most  pitiahlc  ohject.  The  surgeon  left  sonic 
mcidicjine  for  him,  hut  it  is  lU'ohahle  that  the  'shanuin"  did  not  iUlow 
him  to  take  it,  and  that  he  did  not  long  survive  the  native  treatment." 


TOr.ACJCO    SMOKING.    ^ 

"The  natives  are  inveterate  smokers.  I  believe  that  every  num. 
woman,  and  (diild  in  7\rctic-Alaska  smokes  a  pipe.  They  manufacture 
their  own  i)ii»es  of  brass,  copper,  and  iron.  The  stem  is  of  wood,  ahnui 
\en  inch(!S  long,  and  ,s  in  two  piecu'S  bound  together  with  strips  of 
whalebone  or  sinew,  'liie  howls  are  often  made  of  two  or  three  kinds 
of  metal,  as  neatly  joined  as  could  he  done  by  any  jeweller.  A  siiiiill 
skin  bag,  hung  from  the  neck,  holds  the  i)i])e,  and  a  suiallcM-  hag-. 
tobacco.  Hint,  and  steel,  also  a  (luantity  of  wild  cotton,  soaked  in  ;i 
solution  of  gunjtowder,  whi(di  is  used  as  tinder.  A  sharp-pointed  ])ie('e 
of  metal,  used  for  cleaning  the  pi[)e,  is  attached  to  the  stem  with  a 
thong.  In  using  the  pipe,  a  snndl  (juantity  of  hair  from  an  al-fi'-(/hi\ 
or  other  convenient  skin,  is  put  in  the  bottom  of  the  bowl,  and  over 
this  some  finely-eut  tobacco,  th(>  bowl  holding  only  a  small  i)in(di.  'riic 
[)i[)e  is  lighted  with  Hint,  steel,  and  tinder,  and  the  native  comnHMices 
to  draw  vig(^rously,  swallowing  the  smoke,  which  he  retains  in  his  lun^s 
as  long  as  ])ossible.  A  fit  of  (-ougliing  follows,  which  I  at  first  thought 
would  certainly  terminate  the  life  of  the  smoker  in  several  instances. 


Ill 


i-i   \'', 


Til E    "•  J KANNETTK.'' 


44( 


It  is  not  im  uiiusuiil  (((.'currence  lor  a  native,  who  has  heiMi  without 
toh.icco  for  a  loii<;  tinu',  to  retain  the  smoke  in  his  lungs  until  he  falls 
ovt'i  senseless,  having  the  appearane'."  of  a  person  under  the  iiilluenee 
of  (»j)iuni.  This  state  lasts  hut  a  lew  minutes,  when  the  same  perfor- 
iiKiiiee  is  again  gone   through  with." 

Citations  of  cMpial  interest  with  the  jireceding  might  be  largely  ex- 
ifii(lc;d  from  this  report  of  Captain  Hooper's  of  the  date  of  No'  .  1, 
hSiSO  ("Treasury  Dtipartment,  No.  118").  'J'lie  reader  is  referred  vo 
the  llej)ort  in  full,  and  to  the  Medieal,  Anthro[)ologieal,  IJotanieal,  and 
Oiiiithologieal  Notes  and  Memoranda,  written  by  Su'geon  Ivosse,  I'ro- 
I'cssiu-  John  Mnir  of  California,  and  Mr.  1-^.  W.  Nelson;  i»ul)lished  as 
"Kxeeutive  Doeument  105,  House  of  l{(!])resentatives,"  tne  only  por- 
tion of  the  full  Ive])ort  of  the  Second  Cruise  of  the  "Corwin,"  1881,  as 
vet  ordcn'ed  for  pnblieation  by  ('ongress. 

in  closing  the  lirst  Report,  Ca])tain  Hooi)er  expressed  himself  as  at 
fust  in  doubt  as  to  the  safety  of  the  "  Jeannette."  He  considered  the 
ship  to  be  a  stronger  and  better  iitted  vessel  for  the  Arctic  Seas  than  any 
of  the  whalers,  and  her  crew  thoroughly  eipiiitjx'd  for  sledge  travel ;  and 
thought  that  if  DeLong  found  himself  compelled  to  abandon  the  ship 
in  the  last  extremity,  he  could  reach  Plover  Bay,  or  St.  Lawrence  Hay, 
or  Hon)'j  othur  point  on  the  Asiatic  coast  Avhere  they  would  be  well 
riirod  I'or  by  the  Tchuktchis.  But  his  experience  on  this  cruise  com- 
pelled him  more  than  once  to  state  also,  that  to  attain  a  high  latit-ude 
with  a  vessel  in  that  ])art  of  the  Arctic  must  be  sel(h)m  possible.  No 
wlialer  had  ever  been  known  to  reach  the  74^:  and  nowhere  within 
ilie  Arctic  ('ircle  does  the  ice  remain  permanently  so  far  south  as  he- 
tweni  Wrant/ell  Land  and  Point  Barrow. 


THE  SE(X)ND   CRUISE  OF  THE  "CORWIN,"   MAY  4  TO  OCT.  20,  1881.* 

'flic  instructions  of  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury  for  the  second 
cruise  of  the  "Corwin"  bore  the  date  of  April  21,  1881.     The  first 

*  By  the  courtesy  of  Major  E.  W.  Ciiuk,  Chief  of  the  Kevenuo  Marine  Service 
Troasury  Department,  tlie  writer  lias  hail  access  to  the  uni)ubUshed  official  report  of  this 
pruise,  from  the  large  amount  of  information  supplied  hj  v.  hich  this  narrative  is  made  up. 


448 


AMKIIICAN    EXPLOUATrONS    IN    TIIK    K'K   ZOXF.S. 


i!Hli 


'■if 


ill  '  < 
111 


i 

t 

> 

I 

i 

1 

'  I  i 

(»l)j(.'('.l  set  out  ill  tlicsc  was  a<^aiii  tlu;  ciiturcoinoiit  of  tlic  |iro\isi(iiis  rtf 
U.  S.  Laws,  and  tlic  protection  of  tlio  interests  of  the  C.  S.  ( iovcniincni 
(III  the  seal  ishiiids  and  sea-otter  hiiiitin;^'  ^'rounds  in  Ahiskan  watcis. 
A(hlitionaIly  ihe  iiistruetions  read,  "No  iiil'onuatioii  hii\i!it>'  hrcii  n.. 
eeive(l  coiieernino'  the  winders  '.Mount  \Volhist(jn  *  and  '  N'inilanl."  voii 
will  hear  in  mind  tin'  instructions  I'or  your  cruise  of  last  year,  and  ii  j.s 
hoped  you  may  brin^t;'  hack  some  tidiiii;'s  of  tlu'  missint;'  vessels.  \',,ii 
will  also  make  careful  in([niries  in  the  Arctic  ret^ardint;'  the  pro.qc^j; 
and  whereabouts  of  the  steamer  '■  .leannette,"  enL;'a<4'ed  in  iiiakiiiL;'  cxiilo- 
rations  under  command  of  Lieiitenant-Coiiimander  DeLoiiti",  C.S  \ 
and  will,  if  practicable,  coniimiiiieatc!  with  and  extend  any  iieedc(l  a>.<is- 
taiice  to  that  vessel.  .  .  .  Voii  will  in  your  season's  cruise  touch  at  sudi 
p^  .  ■(■-  a.-,  niay  be  practicable  on  the  mainland  or  islands  where  Uutc 
are  settlements  of  natives,  and  examine  into  and  report  upon  linii 
condition. 

"While  criiisino'  in  tlu;  Arctic  Sea  you  will  make  (^arei'ul  observaiieiis 
as  to  currents,  tides,  etc.,  and  will  kee[)  an  a(!cural(!  record  of  sucl. 
soundings,  surveys,  etc.,  as  you  may  1)0  able  to  make;  and  you  will 
obtain  sucli  information  as  maybe  practicable  regarding  the  nmiiluM.^. 
character,  occujiations,  and  general  condition  of  the  inhabitants  ol'  ilic 
adjacent  coasts.  .  .  .  ^'ou  ai'c  ])erniitted  in  your  discretion  to  I'cniain  in 
the  Arctic  Ocean  as  late  in  the  season  as  may  l)e  necessary  to  accom- 
jdisli  the  object  of  yoiu-  voyage,  without  encountering  undue  hazard  to 
your  command." 

The  senior  oflicers  of  this  cruise  were  :  C'a])tain  C.  L.  IToojier :  First 
Lieutenant,  W.  J.  Herring:  Second  Lieutenant,  E.  Burke;  Surov(Mi, 
Irving  C.  Iiosse;  Scientist,  I'rof.  John  Muir  of  California. 

jNIay  4,  the  ''("orwiii  "  sailed  from  San  Francisco,  accompanied  oat 
of  tlie  harljor  by  the  revenue  steamers  '•  Rush  "  and  "  Hartley."  and  a 
number  of  the  San  Francisco  Yacht  Fleet.  Heavy  gales  and  snnw 
storms  were  encountered  on  the  lOth,  compelling,  with  the  stnni'^ 
current  rnunhig  against  the  northwest  gale,  a  turn  back  and  rmi  into 
Beaver  Ilarbcn-,  which  affords  ample  protection,  having  several  gned 
anchoi'ages  near  the  shore.  The  Onalga  Pass  between  Ounalaska  and 
the  Onalga   Islands  was  preferred    by  Ca])tain  Hoo})er   to  cither  the 


!! 


OUNALASKA. 


449 


()miuik  or  the  Ak'(»utiiu  pass,  iis  contiiiiiiii}^  no  Iiidden  dimmers  ;  .id 
>;iirlv  iiavi[,'al)le  lor  all  classes  of  vessels  exce[»t  us  when  first  attempted 
|i\  ilu!  ''rorwin"  when  ;i  slroni;  tjfalo  was  hlowint^  a»;'ainst  (lie  eiirrent  ; 
i!  wis  suceesst'ully  sailed  tliroUL;'li  on  tin;  ITlli,  and  at  Ounalaskii  the 
(i;ik  sheathing'  oi'  the  shi[),  wlueh  had  started,  was  repaired.  The  ship 
iddk  in  u  supply  of  coal,  and  purchased  from  the  Alaska  CV>nunercial 
( (iiiipany  nine  months'  extra  provisions. 

riie  natives  at  Ounalaska  were  suffering  from  an  epidenuc,  —  jdeuro- 
|iii(iiiiionia,  —  from  which  a  large  part  of  the  population  had  died,  and 
ilic  only  physician  of  the  place  being  dangerously  ill,  the  sick  receiM'il 
issisiiince  from  the  surgeon  of  the  "C'orwin."  The  settlement  of 
()iiii;ilaska  or  Jllialook  is  the  largest  commercial  port  of  the  Aleutiisn 
Ishimls,  and  tlu'  principal  depot  of  the  ''Alaska  Commerciar"  and 
tlif  "  VVcstevn  Fur  and  Tra<ling"'  Comijanies.  The  town  lllialook 
liail  before  this  ej)idemic,  a  population  of  three  hundred  and  forty- 
tiii,lit  souls,  oidy  eight  of  whom  were  Americans  ;  one  hundred  and 
eighteen  were  Creoles,  and  two  hundred  and  twenty-two  Aleuts, 
'fhere  is  a  resident  priest,  and  a  school  conducted  by  one  (jf  the 
rliurch  ofhcials,  but  irregularly  attended,  nor  do  the  parents  care 
iil)(int  any  instruction   in  English  for  their  children. 

Sailing  from  Ounalaska  May  -2,  the  shij)  reached  St.  PauTs  the  day 
t'olluwing,  finding  there  as  at  Ounalaska  that  the  j)reeeding  winter  had 
licni  mild  and  the  snow  light.  The  thermometer  had  l»iit  once  regis- 
ui  1(1  beh)W  zero.  From  this  pofnt  Captain  Hooper,  remembering  the 
nuinh  experience  of  his  first  cruise  when  trying  to  make  a  northing 
aliiiig  the  east  side  of  Bering  Sea,  determined  to  keep  if  possible  to  the 
westward  of  the  i)ack.  On  the  24th,  in  hit.  58°  43'  N.,  h)ng.  171°  2G'  E., 
tlic  rcmi»eraturc  of  the  water  fell  to  32",  and  ice  was  sighted  from  the 
ilcck.  Finding  it  so  far  south,  the  "Corwin"  shaped  her  course  for 
{'ape  Thaddeus,  Siberia.  On  the  27th  she  was  at  the  mouth  of  Anadir 
(iiilf,  the  wind  blowing  hai'd  from  the  northward  with  a  short  heavy 
sea  running;  the  course  was  shajjed  for  St.  Lawrence  Island,  which 
was  found  covered   with  snow  and  almost  surrounded   bv  ice.     T'lie 


Hit'tched  condition  of  the  inhabitants  of  this  island  was 


first 


•epf>r 


ted 


by  the  late  Captain  George  W.  Bailey  of  the  revi'uue  steamer  "  Kush, 


m 


h 


7 


°>  'i 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


50   ^^"     B^B 

■^  Ui2    12.2 


I.I 


1.25 


UUk. 

u  1^ 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


"4^^^' 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  MSSO 

(716)  872-4503 


4% 


^ 


450 


AMERICAN   EXPLOUATIONS   IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


'■^.11 


tl 


U       i' 


from  inforr;;vtioii  received  by  him  at  Ounalaska;  he  was  unable  to  visit 
them.  The  fearful  decrease  of  its  popuhitiou  lias  already  ln-eu 
named  in  the  lirst  cruise  of  the  "  Corvvin."  The  facts  now  leanitd  df 
that  suffering  were  still  more  distressing.  Eight  hundred  had  porislied. 
Mr.  Nelson  now  collected  one  hundred  crania  for  the  Smitiisoniun. 

The  natives  seemed  overjoyed  at  the  return  of  the  ship,  firing  fruiis, 
shouting,  etc.  They  came  on  board  in  large  numbers  and  reported  tliai 
the  weather  during  the  past  winter  having  been  mild,  they  had  expiii- 
enced  no  difficulty  in  supplying  themselves  with  food. 

Taking  on  board  two  families  who  desired  to  reach  the  .Silniriiiu 
coast,  the  "Corwin"  sailed  for  Plover  Bay,  where  she  first  learned 
from  Captain  Lapliam  of  the  whaling  barque  "  llainbow,"  news  of  the 
whaling  ships,  "  Mount  Wollaston  "  and  "  Vigilant,"  sea/ched  for  ou  n 
former  cruise.  A  report  had  come  from  the  natives  at  Et  st  Cape  and 
other  points  along  the  coasts,  that  a  party  of  Tchuktchis,  whilst  sealiiii( 
on  the  ice  near  Cai)e  Serdze-Kamen,  had  discovered  a  wreck  believed 
to  be  one  of  the  whalers.  Captain  Hooper  determined  to  disjiatcli  a 
sledge  party  in  that  direction  to  make  inquiries  for  the  ships  and  also 
for  the  "  Jeainiette."  Engaging  therefore  at  Marcus  Bay  for  an  iiitor- 
preter,  a  native  who  spoke  some  English,  Hooper  steamed  through  tlic 
drift-ice  and  passing  Cape  Tchaplin,  anchored  on  the  29th  on  the  soiiili 
side  of  8t.  Lawrence  Bay.  Here  an  old  nian  gave  the  most  detailed 
story  of  the  wreck  of  the  "  Mount  Wollaston,"  which,  however,  Hooper 
was  soon  led  to  believe,  was  almost  entirely  manufactured  for  the  sake 
of  reward. 

"•Finding,"  says  the  Captain,  "that  we  could  get  nothing  but  lies 
from  the  St.  Lawrence  Bay  natives,  we  steered  for  the  Diomede  Islands. 
where  again  the  natives  came  on  board  in  large  numbers  and  were  very 
anxious  to  trade."  One  called  for  whiskey,  and  upon  being  told  tliat 
we  did  not  sell  whiskey,  answered  promptly,  "I  believe  you  lie."  As 
soon  as  it  became  known  to  them  that  we  wished  to  purchase  do<rs.  a 
raid  was  made  on  all  the  aged,  female,  and  useless  dogs  of  every  de- 
serii)tion  in  the  settlement,  and  boat-load  after  boat-load  arrived  until 
we  were  almost  com])elled  to  use  force  to  stop  them  from  bringing  tlie 
animals  on  borrd.     With   the  interpreter  Joe's  assibtance,  who  jiassed 


hii. 


NOUDENSKIOLD  S    WJNTEU   QUAUTKKS. 


451 


judgment  on  them  by  saying,  "That  dog  no  good,"  or,  "This  good,"  the 
ixMiuired  number  of  the  best  were  selected,  and  the  natives  were  in- 
foiined  that  no  more  were  wanted,  and  that  the  rejected  ones  must  be 
taken  out  of  the  sliip.  This  hist  order  Joe  proceeded  to  carry  out  by 
picking  them  up  by  the  back  and  dropping  into  the  boats  without 
regard  to  the  howls  and  snarls  of  the  dogs,  or  the  expostulations  of 
their  owners.  We  had  succeeded  in  getting  nineteen  good  dogs  with 
two  sleds ;  paying  for  all  twenty-one  sacks  of  flour.  We  also  bought 
some  fur  clothing,  boots,  and  some  walrus  tusks,  paying  for  them  in 
tobacco  and  ammunition." 

May  81  the  "Corwin  "  made  Cape  Serdze  Kamen,  but  found  a  rim 
of  ice  from  five  to  thirty  feet  high,  extending  from  two  to  three  miles 
off  shore.  Communicating  with  some  natives  who  we.e  out  on  the  ice 
sealing,  Hoo[)er  engaged  one  of  them  to  accomjjany  him  in  quest  of 
further  information,  and  went  off  with  him  on  his  sled  to  the  native 
settlement.  Here  "  deer-skins  were  spread  on  the  ground  for  us  to  rest 
(lu,  and  a  pair  of  mittens  of  ])eculiar  make  presented  to  each.  We 
visited  several  of  the  houses  and  were  received  in  a  most  friendly  man- 
mr  by  all  their  occupants.  This  settlement  is  near  tlie  wintering- 
place  of  the  'Vega'  in  1878-9.  In  one  of  the  houses  we  were  shown  a 
silver  fork  and  spoon  which  had  been  presented  to  one  of  the  old  men 
liv  Professor  Nordenskiold,  for  whom  they  all  seemed  to  entertain  a 
frioiidly  feeling,  and  who  was  called  by  them  'Captain  Enshall.'" 

June  1,  leaving  this  settlement  (^Tapkan'),  lat.  09°  '28',  long.  175" 
!'•'  W.,  Hooper  came  to  solid  ice  ahead,  and  on  the  starboard-bow, 
showing  that  he  had  come  to  the  end  of  the  lead.  He  was  very  near 
litiiig  nipped  in  the  rai)idly  closing  ice,  which,  through  the  thick  snow 
could  be  seen  no  further  than  the  ship's  length ;  shortly  after  midnight 
ho  was  entirely  surrounded,  and  in  working  out  by  the  engine,  lost 
every  j)intle  of  the  rudder.  Caught  in  the  end  of  a  rapidly  closing 
lead,  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  from  open  water  in  a  howling  gale 
and  without  a  rudder,  destruction  at  first  seemed  inevitable,  but,  after 
several  hours  of  hard  work,  steering  by  the  sails,  the  ship  was  got  into 
the  open  lead  again  and  a  jury-rudder  prepared.  Believing  that  if  the 
iioi'tlierly  wind  continued  it  would  be  but  a  few  hoiu-s  before  the  pack 


t. 


\n 


ki 


452 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS    IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


would  rest  ag.'iinst  tlie  shore,  the  "  Corwiii "  stejiined  slowlv  tu  ih,. 
south  uud  ease,  for,  to  have  been  caught  between  the  pack  ami  sIhmc 
ice  would  be  certain  destruction  for  any  vessel,  no  matter  how  stiomriv 
built.  Koliutchin  Island  was  soon  seen  at  the  distance  of  alxnit  ten 
miles,  and  a  consultation  with  the  natives  was  held  which  endi'fl  in  the 
advice,  that  the  ice  was  practicable  for  the  sledge  party  to  scarrh  foi. 
the  whalers  and  the  "Jeannette."  The  native  consultation  had  ciided 
in  a  grunt,  wliich  Joe  interpreted,  "  He  think  it  pretty  good." 

The  search  party  consisted  of  First  Lieutenant  Herring,  Tliinl 
lieutenant  Reynolds,  Coxswain  Gessler,  and  two  natives;  tlu-ir  diit- 
lit  included  twenty-five  dogs,  four  sleds,  one  skin  boat,  one  tent,  one 
coal-oil  stove,  and  furniture,  with  five  gallons  of  oil,  five  skin  coats, 
three  pair  of  skin  trousers,  six  pairs  seal-skin  boots,  two  deer-skins,  and 
two  rubber  blankets,  an  aneroid  barometer,  thermometer,  marine  glass. 
boat  compass,  lead,  and  line,  etc.,  one  hatchet,  sail  needles  and  twine, 
fifteen  yards  cotton  canvass,  a  quantity  of  seal-skin  line  for  secuiing 
loads  to  the  sledges,  one  hundred  and  forty  pounds  of  bread,  ten 
pounds  of  coffee,  ten  pounds  sugar,  fifty  pounds  dried  potatoes,  ci<,dity 
poinids  of  pemmican,  three  rilles,  three  revolvers,  and  a  shot  gun  with 
iin  abundance  of  ammunition. 

Instructions  were  given  to  Lieutenant  Herring  to  proceed  along  tin' 
coast  as  far  as  practicable,  communicating  with  the  natives  at  cadi 
settlement,  and  if  possible  to  find  the  parties  who  were  said  to  iiavo 
discovered  the  wrecks,  and  gather  all  facts  in  connection  with  it  that 
could  in  any  Avay  throw  light  on  the  fate  of  the  missing  whalers  or  the 
'•  Jeannette."  The  party  was  to  return  to  the  "Corwin"  at  Cape 
Serdze  Kamen. 

Seeing  them  fairly  started,  the  "Corwin"  was  headed  south  for 
Plover  Hay,  Siberia,  to  repair  the  rudder.  After  visiting  St.  ]\Iiclia(Ts. 
Norton  Sound,  Captain  Hooper  returned  to  Cape  Serdze,  and  Umk  the 
land  excursionists  on  board.  They  lui'l  been  absent  twenty-eight 
days,  and  had  been  along  the  Asiatic  coast  to  a  place  called  Cape  Waii- 
keram,  Avhere  they  found  parties  who  had  boarded  the  wrecdv.  and 
obtained  from  them  a  number  of  articles  taken  from  it,  which  were 
afterward  identified  at  San  Francisco  as  belonging,  some  to  the  missing 


i    !■• 


^'-m 


THE   LOST   WHALERS. 


453 


lowly  to  111,. 

ick  aiitl  slii.ic 

how  stroiiirlv 

of  ahdiii  tt'ii 
ended  in  tin- 
to  Hcavrh  fill' 

)n  hud  elided 

od." 

erriiijT,  'Plii,.,! 

;s;  tli(.'ir  (int- 
one tent,  one 
/e  skin  eoats. 
eer-skins,  and 
nuirine  glass, 
es  and  twine, 
J  for  secmiiiu 
:)f  bread,  ten 
)tatoes,  eii,dity 
shot  gun  with 

eed  along  tlio 
itives  at  each 
said  to  have 
with  it  that 
kvhalcrs  or  the 
,vin"  at  Cape 

ed  south  for 
St.  Michaers. 
and  took  the 
twenty-eight 
ed  Cape  Waii- 
e  wreck,  and 
t,  whitdi  were 
,0  the  missing 


dialing  bark  "Vigilant,"  and  others  lo  Captain  Nye,  of  the  "Mount 
U'l'lhistoii."  It  would  seem  that  both  crews  iuid  been  on  board  the 
■•  Vigilant."  It  is  not  unlikely  that  both  vessels  being  caught,  it  was 
decided  by  their  captains,  who  were  skilful  sailors  and  men  of  great 
(iiurage  and  energy,  to  unite  their  forces  on  the  best  vessel,  and  that  a 
sul)S('(|uent  break-up  of  the  ice  released  it,  and  enabled  them  to  reach 
some  i)oint  near  where  the  wreck  was  discovered  before  again  becom- 
ing embayed  and  lost. 

The  statement  made  by  the  natives,  was  that  they  were  out  sealing 
mi  the  ice,  when,  seeing  a  (hirk  object,  they  approached  it,  and  it  was 
ibuiid  to  be  the  hull  of  a  vessel,  with  mast,  bulwarks,  and  boats  gone, 
and  the  hold  partly  filled  with  nater.  In  the  cabin  were  four  corpses, 
three  on  the  floor  and  one  in  a  berth.  After  taking  what  they  could 
carry  home,  night  coming  on,  they  left  the  wreck,  with  the  intention  of 
returning  in  the  morning ;  but  during  the  night,  the  wind  which  had 
lieeii  from  the  northward,  changed  to  southwest,  and  the  wreck  was  not 
seen  again,  having  drifted  away  or  sunk. 

The  sledge  parties  had  also  met  travelling  parties  of  Tchuktchis 
from  the  vicinity  of  Cape  Yukon,  on  their  way  to  East  Cape,  and  from 
them  learned  that  no  white  men  had  been  seen  on  the  coast.  These 
jieojjle  are  constantly  travelling  back  and  forth,  and  it  would  be  almost 
impossible  for  any  one  landing  on  the  coast  to  escape  their  notice 


LANDING   ON    HERALD  ISLAND. 

July  30,  Herald  Island  was  sighted;  as  the  "Corwin"  approached, 
the  ice  became  very  much  heavier,  and  the  ditliiculty  of  getting 
through  it  much  greater,  but  after  a  good  deal  of  bumping,  squeezing, 
iiud  twisting  around  through  narrow  crooked  leads,  and  occasionally 
iliarging  through  an  icy  barrier,  she  succeeded  in  reaching  the  island 
at  'J.45  p.  M.,  and  made  fiist  to  the  ground  ice  in  ten  fathoms  of  water, 
not  more  than  a  cable's  length  from  the  shore.  This  was  an  improve- 
ment on  the  four  attempts  of  her  first  cruise,  when  she  failed  to  get 
nearer  than  four  miles.  The  exploration  now  made  is  also  the  first  in 
the  history  of  this  island.     Captain  Kellett,  U.  N.,  of  the  "  Herald,"  the 


ill 


t 


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AMKItlCAN    KXri.OKATlONS    IN    TFIK    ICK    ZONKS. 


I 


(SbN  i-    5  1 


rclit'l'  slii])  for  Knmkliii,  drsinilu'd  it  as  an  ina(!ct'ssil)l('  rocL  'l"),,. 
Amcrii'an  party  were  ca^er  to  land  as  ox|)l()r(M*s.  As  soon  as  the  v(>- 
sol  was  made  fast,  a  i^ciicral  rush  was  inado  for  llio  short!,  each  tryincr  |,, 
be  Iho  first  to  hiiid.  'i'ho  rim  of  ice  was  prohalily  ono  thousand  Itct  in 
width,  and  full  of  hollows  and  huiniiiocks,  but  after  iiuiny  falls,  wiili 
some  narrow  escapes  from  ijfoinij^  into  tlu;  deep  cn^vices  which  iim 
throiijjjh  it  in  various  directions,  the  shore  was  reached,  and  a  yciicial 
scramble  up  the  almost  p(>rpeudicular  rocks  followed.     While  this  \\;is 


AN    Al;(    lie    liAVlNi:.' 

being'  done.  Professor  Miiir,  an  ex])erienced  mountaineer,  came  over  ilio 
ice  with  an  axe  in  his  hand,  and  ri'achinuj  the  island  a  few  hundred  Icct 
further  north,  op[>osite  a  bank  of  frozen  snow  and  ice  one  liuiidiiMl  feet 
hiijfh  and  standinix  at  an  ancrle  of  lift v  (h><;rees,  deliberatelv  cuimuciiicd 
cutting  stejts,  and  ascended  the  ice  clitT,  the  top  of  which  lie  soon 
reached  without  apparent  li'Viculty:  and  from  this  the  summit  o\'  \\w 
island  was  gained  by  a  gradual  ascent  neither  diHieult  nor  daiipTiuis. 
Muir's  jiractised  eye  liad  selected  the  most  suitable  place  for  the  ascent 
before  tlie  shi})  had  been  made  fast. 

Another  ])arty  making  the  attempt  for  an  ascent  through  a  siikiII 
steep  ravine  u\)  which  they  climbed,  succeeded  after  several  narrow 
escapes  from  falling  rocks,  in  reaching  the  top  of  the  ravine,  but  then 


(;olm:(tiunh  fou  thk  smitmhonian. 


455 


I'iiiiikI  tliiit  tliiMi"  ascent  was  scarcely  Itct^un,  for  above  them,  was  a  plain 
Mni.M'c  of  nearly  a  (linusanil  i'ect  lii^li,  and  so  stec!})  that  the  rock  which 
iiiMTcd  it,  at  tlu!  sli|jrh(est  tonch  caiiH^  thnndering  to  the  bottom. 
ll(Mi|ier  iiad  now  to  intca'pose  his  authority,  and  order  a  retreat  lor  the 
Sillily  <»l'  this  party  whose  descent  was  made,  one  at  a  time,  tlu;  npiier 
mics  riiuiainiii^  ([uiet  till  the  lower  ones  W{;r(!  out  of  danp'r. 

The  top  of  th(!  islaml,  ordinarily  inaciH'ssible,  nndrr  the  skilful 
i^Miidiince  of  Professor  Muir,  had  been  thus  reached  \>\  a  hir^c  |)arly, 
and  cveiywhere  (carefully  searched  for  traces  of  the  "  .bsaiinctte  "  and 
iiiissintj  whalers.  All  pronunent  |ioints  were  carefully  (>xaminc(l  for 
(iiiriis.  but  none  were  found,  or  anything'  which  woidd  indicate  that  the 
is!;iiid  had  ever  bcfoiu;  been  visited  by  human  beings. 

Whiles  the  s(!arch  was  being  proscciuted  by  the  ollicers  and  men  from 
ilic  ship,  Professor  Muii-  made  a  collecti(Ui  of  [)lants,  studi(!d  the  geo- 
Idgical  character  of  the  island,  and  made  sketches;  Mr.  Nelson  devoted 
liiiiiself  to  its  natural  history. 


The  Report  of  the  Smithsonian  for  1881  says:  "In  summing  uj)  the 
ilirccl  I'csults  of  Mr.  Nelson's  work  in  the  North,  the  iinbrok(Mi  series 
III'  ;il»nut  twelve  thousand  meteorological  observations  must  be  men- 
liuiH'd  first,  since  to  obtain  these  was  the  primary  object  of  his  resi- 
dence there.  In  addition  to  these  there  were  obtained  about  nine 
ilioiisand  ethnological  8i)ecimens,  two  thousand  one  hundi'cd  bird 
>kiiis.  live  hundred  mannual  skins  antl  skulls,  four  hundred  fishes,  and 
Viiiious  other  specimens,  beside  vocabularies  of  seven  or  eight  Eskimo 
ilialccts  with  accompanying  linguistic  notes,  and  a  large  amount  of 
miinuscrii)t  material  upon  all  the  branches  in  which  collections  were 
iii'kIc.  Over  t)ne  hundred  photographs  of  the  peoi)le  and  other  scenes 
were  secured  during  the  last  year  of  his  residence  in  the  north.  The 
iKHH'ssary  expenses  attending  this  work,  outside  those  appertaining 
strictly  to  the  meteorological  work,  were  met  by  an  allowance  from 
tlio  Institution,  where  the  specimens  are  stored  at  present  awaiting  the 
elaboration  of  the  Reports." 


•If 


Up  to  the  year  1870,  the  most  extensive  and  valuable  herbarium 


ti 


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In  'I 


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AMI.IJU'AN    KXI'l,<»H,\TloNS    IN    Till',    U'K    /oNI'.M. 


nt  ()«  Sinidisoniiiii  liiitl  l)t<«<n  ili*>  collection  of  platitH  nm<l(>  tluiiii';  n, 
Noiili  I'.icilic  l',\|tloriiuv  I'lxiiciliiion,  under  connnnnd  ol'  ( 'oniiiKnnli  i 
HiiiUUoj.j    :in<l    IomIi;«ms    (ISo.';    to    IS.Ht).   by    Mr.   ('jiiirics   Wii-ji 


•III 


acconiplislicd  lioiiiiiiNt.  Tlic  colU'clions  in  cvi'iy  Itrancli  (»!'  n.iiin.il 
history .  Iiotany.  etc..  liav»'  been  ol'  late  yeais  laujt'ly  «'X(en(le(l  li\  mi,  I, 
explorers  as  Dall  and  Nelson.      ( See  Smithsonian   Kepoils.) 

Notu  it  hstandino;  the  hieak  and  Itancn  appearance  of  the  islaml.  :ii 
a  di'-taiire  ol'  a  lew  miles  on  its  snmmit  were  I'onnd  a  nnmher  ol'  sj'. .  jcs 
ol   plants,  while  ev(>ry   rocKy   iirojeetion  tui   the  elilVs   seenieil  cnvncil 


\\ 


itli  nestiii;^  birds,  i^tills.  etc.:  on  the  snmmit   sin»w  bnntin 


us  well 


in<'  nu'rrilv  iVom  rock  to  roc! 


(>ii  the  top  ol"  the  east  end.  over  a  tluMisand  I'eet  above   the  ^ 
Ix'd  ol'  tinl'v  moss  abtnit  ouo  hundred  vartis  in  extent,  ant!  IVoim  |) 


\\,|s 


III' 


to  t.Mir  leet  in  depth,  eontaiiunu  a  nnndter  ol  holes,  winch  at  Inst 
resend>lcd  the  tracks  «)|"  some  h»)ol\>d  animal.  l)nl  which  npon  cliisrr 
I's.imination  iuove«l  to  be  burrows  ol'  the  white  I'ox. 

"The  entire  island  is  a  mass  of  oranite,  with  the  exception  of  a  p:itr|| 
i>r  nietaniorphic  slate  near  the  «'entre,  and  no  doubt  oW(>s  its  existeiici'. 
with   so  t'onsidiMabl(>  a  luMuht.  to  the  su|)erior  resistance  this  uraiiiii- 


othMs  to  the  dcurad'.nu'  action  ol  tlie  northern  ice  sheet,  trac(>s  of  wiiirji 
arc  plainly  shown.  Standiui^  as  it  docs  alone  out  on  th(>  Polar  Sra,  it 
IS  a  tine  glacial  nii>nunient.  The  island  is  about  six  miles  loni;"  bv  twn 
wide:  its  ureal  est  height  as  shown  by  an  accurately  tcstcil  baiomct 
is  one  thousand  two  hundred  tcet." 

From  tlu>  summit  a  ut*«'d  view  was  »dVered  of*  Wranu*'!!  Land,  the  iiiiii,'- 
nciic  bearing  o\'  its  extrcniitv  IxMnu  oiven  bv  Proles.sor  Muir  as  snutli 


er 


40":  Avcst  and  soutliTt^':  west  or  south  t)'2°  lit)' ;  west  and  north  Sil' 
ol  N.  (^true^.  The  contour  ol'  the  eastern  »Mid  of  the  land  was  clcarlv 
detined  as  abiuit  t'lUty  miles  distant,  but  furtluM'  away,  «)n  its  north  siili- 
a  blue  lino  appeared  above  the  horizon  which  Muir  supposed  to  be  hitul 
exteuilinu  in  that  direction.  To  the  party  who  reached  the  sumniit  all 
sense  of  fatigue  vanished,  for  the  luiduiuht  sun  was  shining  with  gleam- 
ing splcutior.  Claiming  all  tho  waste  ot"  the  ioo,  sea,  and  granite.  "  Tlu' 
hour."  says  Muir.  "which  I  spent  aloiu^.  was  one  of  the  most  imju'cssivo 
of  mv  life,  and  1  would  fain  have  watched  here  all  the  strange  niuhi. 


K KM, KIT  H    riillSK. 


I. 


H 


lull  iimlt'i'  I  lie  ( 'iipliiiirH  <lmr}^'f,  Imslt'iicd  In  licj^fin  my  id  urn  jniiiiifV  iit. 
<iii'  ill  till'  nioniiiij^r,  iil'trr  tiiKiii)^^  llic  rniii|iiiHS  ln'iirin^rs  of  llic  |)tiii('i|i;il 
|mouIs  williiii  si^lil.  nil  Wraii^cll  Liiml." 

Wliilc  llic  rx|t|oiiili(»n  (III  IIhi  iHlaiDl  wiih  |n»lii^  mm,  llin  "  ('(nwiii  " 
sti  itiirti  iiniiiiiil  III  till'  iioi'tli  HJiji'  in  n  cli-iii-  li'iiij  JM'twri'n  tlif  ^iiiiinilcij 
;iii<l  till'  iliil't  ire,  iiiiil  iiiiiili!  tin  cxiiiiiiiiiitiiiii  of  tlii<  slmrr  lilM^  /\t. 
_'.;'i<l  A.  M.  ill!  iiailijs  liiivill^^  n'tlinicij  In  tlir  VI'HHI'I,  hIit  rast  nlT  IVniii  llu' 
H|(iiiiii|-i»'i'  ami  stcaiiu'd  tlinni^'li  llm  diiri,  Inwaid  cli-ar  water,  wliirli 
\\,i.  rrai'lii'il  altniit  ll.ilO  A.  M.  'I'lii-  "('nrwin  "'  was  alsn  llic  liisl,  In  laiiij 
hi'iv;  tlic  lirst  III'  <'\|ilni-(>i'H  t<Mi|>|)rniii'li,  in<l(M'<l.  very  near  tliin  iHlaiKJ, 
till  lii'ariii^H  III"  wliicli  wvvv  iirtcrwanl  sn  riilly  (li>t(>itiiiiii>i|  l»y  Lii'iili  iiatit 
jliiiy,  r.S.  N.,  nf  tlic  '' Kndj^PiH."  'riic  fact  nl"  ilw  hciiij^  an  JHland  nl' 
mm;iII  rxli'iil  lias  an  iiii|ini taut  ri'latinn  tn  mir  knnwlcdirc  nt'  tin-  iii!  Iiar- 
licrs;  till'  liailmr,  nf  wliirli  niriifinii  will  lii'  licrcartcr  made,  may  |irnvi' 
;i  rrlnni'  tn  tlii>  wliah'is;  hut  jmsHilily,  a.  t('ni|»tat.inn  l.n  snmi!  tn  rrniain 
tiMi  litn^  ill  llu'  Aiiilic. 

KAin-V    NOTKM   OK    Wl! AN«iKI,l,    LANI». 

Till'  tirKt  notice  nl'  (jiis  land  lias  already  lieeii  ad  verted  tn  in  tin; 
iiniiiiiil    nf   tlic    lv\|)lnriii^    l<iX|iedit inn    nl'  lii(Mit(tnant    (lati;   Admiral) 

IJnijo^rrs,    U.  S.  N.,  IM;')*).      In    tl Kepnrled    Dan^'crs   nl'   the    I'acilic 

Ocriiii,"  cnm|iilc(l  h\  Mr.  V).  K.  Kiinrr  nf  the  U.S.  Ilydrn^naphie 
Ollice,  will   he   round  (he  Inllnwin^  nnticc;:  — 

"The  existence  nf  extensive  land  imrthwest.  of  I'erin^'s  Straits, 
wliicii  had  l)ccn  reported  forty  years  aL,fn  hy  tin; 'rtdiukteliis  nf  Cape 
.liikiiii  to  Lieutenant  (now  Admiral)  Wrangell  of  Mk;  Kiissian  Navy, 
liiis  heen  ]>hieed  heyond  ihiuht.  hy  the  re(!ent  discoveries  of  Captain 
hnii^  and  Captain  Kayiior.  It  is  very  important  in  th(!  interest  of 
whiilcrs  as  W(dl  as  for  the  jiromotion  of  ^(so^raphieal  knowledge  tf> 
(ilitiiin  all  tlie  information  of  it  which  fair  ojijxirtunity  (so  ran;  in  that 
hititiKh!)  may  [)laco  within  the  reach  of  whaling-masters  when  uvur 
that  ground. 

"Captain  (now  Admiral)  Ki^llctt,  of  II.  IJ.  M.'s  ship  'Herald,'  wIkhi 
ill  sciirch  for  Sir  John  Franklin  in  1<S4!I,  discovered,  and  landed  on 
Herald  Island,  and  cruising  in  that  vicinity  for  a  few  days  in  very  rough 


4r)8 


AMKUI(\\N    KXPLOUATIONK    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZONKS. 


wciitlur,  lu'licvcd  lie  saw  jmotlicr  isliiiid,  iiaiiH'd  l»y  him  iMovci.  iuk] 
als(»  iimrc  rxtciisivc  luiiil  wliirli  \iv  tlioiiglit  to  he  tlu;  liiiid  rfporinl  |,^ 
Adniiial  NVranm'lI. 

"  IiiiMit«'naiil  (MOW  IJcar-Admiral)  .loliii  li'Mlj^ots,  I'.S.  N..  wlui,. 
(•(•iiunandinu;  llic  U.S.  Noilli  Pacilic  Survey  l'iX|>('(li(i(ni  in  |S,"».").  ,  ,,. 
di'avori'tl,  in  (lu*  llaij-sliip  '  Vinct'iincs,'  (o  vcMil'v  lln's*-  discdvcrirs:  K, 
also  landtMl  on  Herald  Island  (tlic  son(lu>ast end  of  wliicli  wns  ruiiinl 
to  lu«  ill  lat.  71''  -Jr  N.,  and  loiiy.  M.V  IV.V  W.),  and  cvidcnily  ii.i,,. 
tratod  lurtlu'r  to  llic  noriliward  and  to  llie  westward  lliaii  Admiril 
Kellett  liad  diMu*,  l)iit,  altlioiiufli  favored  most  of  tli(>  liiiu^  liy  lieiiiitilnlU 
olear  weallier,  lie  t;ould  not  se»'  any  land  or  any  a|)i)earaiie('  of  hml. 
exet'pt  lleralil  Island.  The  land  eiiumorat«'d  then  shown  on  ili,. 
liritisli  charts  (hut  iu)W  omitted)  was  I'onelnsively  proved  not  to  (■\i>i. 
as  the  •  \'iiu'ennes'  aneliored  »tver  niuflit  in  hit.  T'-i"  O'J  -7",  loni;-.  ITT 
'M  W.,  where,  on  the  l\»liowiiin'  iiiorniii<j;,  with  a  horizon  clear  Ww  ;i 
radius  o['  at  least  thirty  miles,  no  land  was  in  siy;ht.  To  th(>  west  dl' 
lleralil  Island,  the  i)rojjfress  ol'  the  '  N'iiicennes "  was  barred  hv  Held  ice 
when  about  seven  miles  I'rom  the  jtosition  assiojned  to  Plover  Islmitl. 
which  surely  woidd  have  been  seen  if  existing'.  Subseiiucnliv  the 
jHtsitiou  of  \Vran<;ell  Land  was  aj)proached  from  the  southeast  to 
within  a  few  miles,  when  a^ain  an  lmi)enetrable  barrier  of  packed  ice 
Mas  met  with:  very  thick  weatlier  also  had  set  in,  in  tiie  meantiiiic. 
■vvhicli  prevailed  for  more  than  a  week,  thus  preventing  the  discoveries 
whii'h  twelve  years  afterward  were  made  but  thirty  miles  north  of  the 
'  Viueennes'  track." 


TIIK   FIliST    AUTHENTIC   ACCOUNT. 

Captain  Lonjj,  of  the  whaling  barque  "Nile,"  in  1807  gave  the  lirst 
authentic  account  of  the  land  in  question.  After  making  its  southwist 
point  in  long.  178'''  30'  E.,  he  sailed  along  the  south  coast  for  two  days. 
until  he  made  what  he  believed  to  be  the  southeast  point  in  lat.  70" 
40'  N.,  and  long.  178°  57'  W.,  when  he  turned  south  toward  the  straits. 
But  Captain  Raynor  of  the  *' Keindeer "  having  also  fallen  in  with 
that  land  at  nearly  the  same  time,  and  placed  the  southwest  point 
in  lat.  70^  50'  N.,  and  long.  178^  15'  K.,  states  the  southeast  point  to  Ik- 


K..-- 


r'APTAINM    I.ONO    AND    KAYNOl:. 


4r.<> 


ill  hit.  71"  10'  N.,  iumI  .'>iii|.  ITtI  10'  W.  (iiKiif  tliiiii  t\V(i  (Ir^HM's  fiiitlicr 
I  ,i>l-ii()i'tli(>ast  (liiiii  Long's  |)<)Hiti(iii)  iVoiii  wlirncc,  li(>  Huys,  tlu;  couKt 
I  III  lis  lirsl.  iiorlliwrslwiird  I'nr  liltrcii  (»r  twi'iily  miles,  tli(!M  nortlKfust, 
;iii<l  liii^licr  up  ii|i|iiin'iilly  iKtrtliciiHtwiinl.  'Vhv,  snutlicsiHt  point  of  ('ji|>- 
Kiiii  L*)iii(,  iiiiiihmI  l>y  liiiii  ( 'api;  lliiwiiii,  tlicrtilon!  is,  in  ii|I  pioWiiliility, 
till  south  point,  iVoni  wliicii  tlu;  land  IkmkIs  to  northwiird  iind  llicn 
ii;4;iiii  ciistAViinl  to  lli(>  soiitliiniHt  point  of  Captain  Kiiynor,  fvoni  wliuncu 
ii  iiirns  to  tlio  mountains  wliiidi  arc  shown  on  ihi;  charts  as  s(><;n  IVom 

il Herald."     Captain    llliveii,   of   tlic   "Nautilus,"    reports   to   havo 

SCI  II  land  to  the  nortlieiist.  of  Herald  Island  as  hi^h  as  hit.  72'OU'N. 
The  land,  aceiudiiij^  to  Captain  Kon^f's  deseription,  j)resontH  th(5  leatines 
n|' ilic  o|)posite  Asiatic  coast.  Tahh;  mountains  se|tarat(!d  hy  valleys, 
iisrcnd  directly  iVom  the  shore  to  u  eonsiderahle  elevation  ;  tlu;  mi<ldl(! 
iiiir,  apparently,  a  volcano,  lu;  estimat<;d  to  Ik;  two  thousand  four  hun- 
dred and  eighty  hiet  liij^h  ;  la;  beliiwiis  Ik;  had  seen  vcM'duro  and  a  lar^o 
lihick  place  on  tla;  slojie  of  one  td'  the  hills  resemhlini^  coal;  and  he 
((includes  that  the  land  is  inhal)it(!d,  or  that  at  least  rein(U)(M-  may  he 
I'diiiid  there.  Cajitain  It'aynor,  on  iho  contrary,  states  that  to  him  the 
cdiist.  which  was  ncuirly  slraij^ht,  with  hi^h,  rui;'^'(Ml  clilTs,  ap|)eared  to 
lie  entirely  barren. 

'iho  full  'cport  of  Captains  liOii^  and  Kaynor  first  appearcjd  in  the 
■■Honolulu  ('omniercial  Advertiser "  in  NoviMuhei,  lH(i7.  It  is  here 
l^ivcn  to  the  credit  of  our  Merchant  Marine.  '^Phe  "Advertiser"  says: 
"  One  of  the  most  interesting  items  that  we  have  learned  from  the 
whalemen  wlio  liav(!  cruised  in  the  Arctic  Ocean  the  past  summer  is 
ilu!  discovery  of  extensive  hmd  in  the  mi(Ulle  of  that  ocean,  which  nniy 
vi't  prove  to  be  a  I'ohir  continent.  The  existence  of  this  hmd  has  lonj^ 
l)('('!i  known,  but  owing  to  the  impassable  ice  barred  along  its  shores, 
(if  its  extent  and  character  nothing  very  definite  has  been  known  until 
this  season,  liaron  Wrangell,  the  famous  Russian  explorer,  first  c(mii- 
iimiiicated  to  the  Avorld  the  knowledge  of  its  existence  as  lie  learned  it 
tioni  the  Siberian  Indians,  and  it  is  simply  marked  on  most  Arctic 
ciiarts  'extensive  highland.' 

"It  should  be  stated  that  the  past  summer  has  been  the  mildest 
aiul  most  favorable  for  whaling  ever  known  by  oldest  whalemen.    One 


4 


4fiO 


AMKUICAN    KXI'LOUATIONH    iN   THK   ICK  ZONKS. 


i 


f 


f'j. 


m 


niivstcr  says  that  lin  did  not  hoc  a  pioci;  of  ico  as  larjjfo  aH  liis  Imml  lin  i,,, 
reaclu'd  tlu'  straits,  and  fViMi  ln-yoiid  that,  U[)  t»>  7- ,  thu  sea  was  ^'tiKi. 
ally  tVcr  from  floating  ice.  'i'ho  wcathor,  tor  tho  ni(»st  part,  luis  lutn 
exceedingly  mild,  with  southerly  winds  prevailing,  whieh  has  tcndcil  im 
melt  the  iee  or  drive  it  northward.  As  a  result  of  tho  favcuahlc  ^ih,. 
of  the  oet'an  an<l  weather,  the  ships  have  ^one  further  north  this  smu- 
mer  than  ever  before,  some  havinj;  reaehed  as  high  as  hit.  78'  W. 

"('ii|»tain  l^ong,  of  tho  hankie  'Nilo,'  who  seinns  to  havo  examin..! 
the  land  m(»st  attentively,  iiaving  cruised  along  tho  entire  siuitluiii 
coast,  has  drawn  a  sketch  of  its  ajjpoaranco.  It  is  (juitc  elevated  imd 
near  the  centrt;  luis  an  extinct  crater  cone  which  he  estimatiMJ  to  iu-  tw,, 
thousand  four  hundred  and  eighty  feet  high.  lie  namoil  it  VVraii<;(irs 
Land,  after  tho  noted  Kussian  exphner.  The  west  i)oint  he  iianuil 
('apt!  Thomas;  the  southwest  [unnt  Cape  Hawaii.  The  names  givni 
by  Captain  Long  are  so  very  appropriate  that  wo  <h)ubt  not  (Jeograpli- 
ical  Societies  of  Euro[)0  and  America  will  ado})t  thom,  and  call  this 
hunl  Wrangoll  Land.  Captain  Long  has  prepared  for  us  an  account  of 
this  interesting  discovery,  which  wo  insert  here  :  — 


"  IIoNoi.i'M',  Nov.  "),  is»)7. 

"Siir:  During  my  cruise  in  the  Arctic  Ocean  I  saw  land  not  hiiil 
down  on  any  chart  that  I  have  seen.  This  land  was  first  seen  from  tlio 
baniue  *Nile,'  on  the  evening  of  the  14th  of  August,  and  the  next  day 
at  0.80  A.M.,  the  ship  was  eighteen  miles  distant  from  the  west  juiint., 
I  had  good  observations  this  day,  and  made  tho  west  point  to  be  in 
lat.  70^  40'  N.,  and  long.  178^  80'  E.  The  lower  part  of  the  land  was 
entirely  free  from  snow  and  had  a  green  appearance,  as  if  covered  with 
vegetation.  There  was  broken  ice  between  the  ship  and  land,  but  as 
there  was  no  indication  of  whales,  I  did  not  feel  justified  in  endeavoring 
to  work  through  it  and  reach  the  shores,  which  I  think  could  have 
been  done  without  much  danger.  We  sailed  to  the  eastward  along  ilio 
land  during  the  15th,  and  part  of  the  16th,  and  in  some  places  ap- 
proached it  as  near  as  fifteen  miles. 

"  On  the  lOth  the  weather  was  very  clear  and  pleasant,  and  we  had 
a  good  view  of  the   middle  and  eastern  portion.     Near  the  centre  oy 


i 


LONG  8   A('<'Ol'NT. 


m 


iilxiut  ill  Idiij;.  IHO,  then-  is  a  iiioiiiitiiiii  wliiili  has  tlit;  u|>|H'iirim(;«' of  an 
.'\ti"ct  volcano.  My  approxiiiiatc  iiu-asiUfiiiLMit  I  found  it  to  hf  twt> 
tliniisanil  four  linndred  and  ei^dity  ftua  liij^di.  I  had  excellent  (disiTva- 
tiniia  (Ml  the  Itlth,  and  iiiadc  this  southcastmi  capc',  which  I  have  named 
(ape  Hawaii,  to  he  in  hit.  7U  40'  N.,  and  h.n^'.  17H  Al'  W.  It  is  iiii- 
|inssihle  to  tell  how  far  this  hind  extends  northward,  hut  as  far  as  the 
eve  couhl  reaeii  we  couhl  see  ran^fes  of  niountains  until  they  wt-re  htst 
ill  the  distance  ;  and  I  learn  from  Captain  llliven  of  the  ship  '•  Nautilus," 
lliiit  ho  saw  land  northwest  of  Herald  Island,  as  far  north  as  hit.  12  . 

"From  the  ain>ea ranee  of  the  land  as  we  saw  it,  I  feel  convinced 
liiiit  it  is  inhabited,  as  there  were  larjje  nuinhers  of  wa'.jiis  in  this 
vicinity;  and  the  land  apjieared  more  ^Meeii  than  the  main  eoast  of 
Asia,  and  quite  as  capable  of  BUjiportinjif  man  as  the  coast  from  I'oint 
Harrow  to  the  Mackenzie  River,  or  the  northern  parts  of  (ireenland, 
which  are  in  a  much  higher  latitude.  There  is  a  cai)e  a  little  to  the 
westward  of  Cape  .lakan  which  has  a  very  singular  appearance.  On 
the  summit  and  ahuig  the  slopes  of  this  promontory  there  is  an  immense 
immber  of  upright  and  ju-ostrate  columns  —  some  having  the  a|>pear- 
iiiice  of  pyramids,  others  like  obelisks;  some  of  them  with  the  summit 
iiirger  than  the  base.  The  character  of  the  surrounding  country,  which 
was  rolling  with  no  abrupt  declivities,  made  these  objects  appear  more 
singular.  They  were  not  in  one  continuous  mass  but  scattered  over  a 
huge  surface,  and  in  clusters  of  fifteen  or  twenty  yards  with  intervals 
(if  several  hundred  yards  between  them.  While  at  anchor  near  this 
place.  Captain  I*hillii)S,  of  the  'jNIonticello,' came  on  boai'd  and  drew 
my  attention  to  a  large  black  i)lace  on  the  sloi)e  of  one  of  the  hills,  and 
said  he  thought  it  was  coal.  We  examined  it  with  the  telescoi»e,  and  it 
liad  a  very  distinct  appearance  of  coal.  It  glistened  in  the  sun  and 
appeared  like  a  large  surface  which  had  been  used  as  a  de}»osit  for 
coal.  It  was  about  one  and  a  half  miles  in  length,  and  one  half  mile  in 
hreadth,  the  country  surrounding  it  being  covered  with  vegetation. 
From  175°  to  170°  east  there  were  no  indications  of  animal  life  in  the 
Avater.  We  saw  no  seals,  walrus,  whales,  or  animalcuUe  in  the  water, 
it  apj)eared  almost  as  blue  as  it  does  in  the  middle  of  the  I'acihc  Ocean, 
although  there  was  but  from  fifteen  to  eighteen  fathoms  in  any  place 


ill 


462 


AMERICAN    KXPLOUATIONS    IN   THE    ICK   ZONES. 


within  forty  miles  of  the  hiiul.  I  think  tlie  position  1  liave  assignod  to 
this  hind  will  be  found  eorrecc,  as  Mr.  Flitner  examined  my  ehronomoier 
on  my  arrival  and  found  it  only  one  and  a  half  miles  in  error. 

"  I  have  named  this  northern  land  Wrangell  Land  as  an  appropriate 
tribute  to  the  menu)ry  of  a  man  who  sjjent  three  consecutive,  years 
north  of  hit.  00°,  and  demonstrated  the  problem  of  this  open  PoUir  Sea 
forty-live  years  ago,  although  others  of  much  later  date  have  en- 
deavored to  claim  the  merit  of  this  disct)very.  The  west  cape  of  tliis 
liind  1  have  named  Cape  Thomas,  from  the  man  who  lirst  reported  tli(> 
land  from  the  masthead  of  my  ship,  and  the  southeastern  cape  1  have 
named  after  the  largest  island  in  this  group.  As  this  report  has  Ixcu 
hurriedly  j)rej)ared,  I  would  wish  to  make  more  extended  observations 
on  the  subject,  which  nuiy  be  of  benefit  to  other  cruisers  in  this 
direction,  if  you  will  allow  me  room  in  your  paper  on  some  future 
occasion.  "  Yours  very  truly, 

"Thomas  Lonc."' 


'•"i?  $ 


iMi;. 


lii'li' 


tt 


mm^ 


The  "Advertiser"  observes:  "The  next  interesting  inquiry  relates 
to  its  extent,  i'.s  near  as  we  can  learn,  after  diligent  inquiry  no  one 
landed  anywhere  on  it,  though  several  coasted  within  a  few  miles  of  it. 
The  southern  shore  runs  a  distance  of  about  one  hundred  miles  east  and 
west.  How  far  it  extends  north  is  at  present  oidy  a  matter  of  conjecture. 
"Captain  Bliven,  while  cruising  near  Herald  Island,  hit.  71'^  20'  N., 
long.  17;V'  W.,  and  distant  about  eighty  miles  from  the  southeast 
point  of  Wrangell  Land,  saw  the  mountain  range  extending  to  the 
northwest  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach.  He  thinks  it  not  improbal)le 
that  itexteiuls  iu)rth  several  hundred  miles.  If  so,  it  would  appear  to 
be  of  great  extent,  })erhaps  sufficient  to  be  termed  a  continent.  My 
taking  a  chart  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  and  marking  the  land  from  the 
points  named  above,  it  will  be  found  to  be  about  seventy  miles  from 
the  Siberian  coast.  The  straits  between  the  two  shores  are  usually 
blocked  with  ice,  but  this  season  they  have  been  quite  clear.  Captain 
Long  thinks  that  a  propeller  might  readily  have  steamed  far  up  north 
either  on  the  west  or  east  side  of  this  land,  and  made  full  discoveries 
regarding  its  extent  and  character. 


are  usually 


THK   ICE    HAKUIKll,    LONG.    170°  W. 


463 


"T]ie  following  letter  from  Captain  llaynor  contains  some  additional 
jiiirtieulars  relaCiiig  to  the  northerly  current  past  Herald  Island,  a  cir- 
cumstance noticed  by  several  masters,  and  which  tends  to  confirm  the 
opinion  that  tht;  newly  discovered  land  extends  some  distance  to  the 
north.  In  the  channel  north  of  Herald  Island  the  sea  was  clear  of  ice 
as  lar  north  as  the  eye  could  reach  from  the  vessel  that  went  furthest 
into  it." 


UAYNOU  S    LICTTKIl. 


"  IIoNoi-trMJ,  Nov.  1,  1807. 


•  Mi;.  Whitney, 

"SiK  :  In  compliance  with  your  reciuest,  I  send  a  short  account  of  a 
large  tract  of  land,  lying  in  the  midst  of  the  Arctic  Ocean,  hitherto 
hut  little  known.  .  This  land  has  heretofore  been  considered  to  be  two 
islands,  one  of  which  is  marked  on  the  English  charts  as  Plover  Island, 
which  is  laid  down  to  the  west-southwest  of  Herald  Island.  The  other 
is  simply  marked  'extensive  land  with  high  peaks.'  On  my  last  cruise 
1  sailed  along  on  the  south  and  east  side  of  this  island  for  a  considerable 
distance  three  different  times,  and  once  cruised  along  the  entire  shore, 
ami  by  what  I  considered  reliable  observations,  made  the  extreme 
snutliwest  cape  to  lie  in  north  lat.  70°  50',  and  cast  long.  178"  10'.  The 
smitheast  cape  I  found  to  be  in  north  lat.  71"  10',  and  west  kmg.  176" 
4(5'.  I'he  south  coast  ap])cars  to  be  nearly  straight,  with  high,  rugged 
din's,  and  entirely  barren.  The  northeast  coast  I  have  not  examined 
to  any  extent,  but  it  appears  to  run  from  the  southeast  cape  for  twenty 
miles,  and  then  turns  to  the  north  and  northeast.  I  learned  from  Cap- 
tain Bliven  that  he  had  traced  it  much  fiuther  north,  and  has  seen 
others  who  traced  it  to  north  of  lat.  72°.  I  think  there  is  no  doubt  that 
it  extends  much  further  to  the  north,  aad  that  there  is  another  island  to 
the  east  of  it,  say  in  long.  170"  west  and  to  the  northwest  of  Point  Bar- 
row, with  a  passagi  between  it  and  the  land  I  have  just  described.  My 
reason  for  thinking  so  is  this:  we  always  find  ice  to  the  south  of  the 
Ivuown  land  further  to  the  south  than  we  do  to  the  eastward  of  it.  The 
(urj-ent  runs  to  the  northwest  from  one  to  three  knots  an  hour. 

"  In  the  longitude  of  170°  west,  we  always  find  the  ice  barrier  from 
lilLy  to  eighty  miles  further  south  than  wo  do  between  that  and  Herald 


464 


AMKUICAN   EXPLORATIONS   JN  THE   ICE  ZONES. 


Island,  and  there  is  always  a  stront];  current  setting  to  the  norlhwt  .,1 
between  these  localities,  unless  prevented  by  strong  northerly  gales  ( inr 
in  such  shoal  water  as  the  Arctic  Ocean,  the  currents  are  changed  casilv 
b}'  the  winds)  which  would  indicate  that  there  is  a  passage  in  tiiai  diivc- 
tion,  where  the  waters  pass  between  two  bodies  of  land  that  luild  ihu 
ice,  the  one  known,  and  the  other  unknown. 

I  would  add  that  the  southwest  cape  of  this  island  described  almve, 
lies  seventy-live  miles  distant  from  the  Asiatic  or  Siberian  coast. 

"•  Yours  very  truly, 

"CfEOJUiE  W.  Raynok, 

'•'  MdHter  of  ship  '  lieiui/r,',-.'  " 


?• 


■■^ 


hi    0 


;  )ii' 


■r  ] 


m 


1: 


i !  r  i 


llr 


<nr 


I .' 


! 


V, 


The  land  thns  referred  to  was  now  iirst  reached  and  cxph  .  ,i|  l,v 
the  U.  S.  Kevenue  Cutter  "Corwin,"  August  11.  The  atnu)S[)liere  was 
perfectly  clear,  and  the  land  in  i)lain  sight  about  thirty  miles  distant. 
covering  an  arc  of  the  horizon  from  northwest  to  north-northeast  tiiic. 
Sketches  and  bearings  of  prominent  points  were  taken,  but  the  I'nst 
attempt  at  a  nearer  approach  was  unsuccessful.  "Good  obseivatinns 
for  latitude  and  longitude,  conlirmed  by  subsequent  bearings  and  ol)S(r- 
vations  taken  off  the  east  coast,  showed  the  land  on  the  Anieiicaii 
Hydrographic  Chai  ■  be  laid  down  eighteen  miles  too  far  south, 
although  the  generi.    '     .id    f  the  coast  is  very  nearly  correct. 


"NEW  COLUMBIA. 

A  volunteer  party  consisting  of  the  Lieutenant,  the  Professor.  Assist- 
ant Engineer  Owens,  Mr.  Nelson,  the  botanist,  and  the  Coxswain. 
Gessler,  now  eagerly  volunteered  to  land,  but  the  fog  and  mist  ra]iiill\ 
shutting  down,  and  the  uncertainty  of  the  ship  holding  lier  posit imi  in 
the  lead  kept  them  back  until  the  following  day,  when  at  7.oO  a.  m. 
anchor  was  dropped  within  a  cable's  length  of  the  land  in^ve  fatlidins 
of  water.  A  landing  was  then  effected,  and  the  American  Hag  raised 
in  token  of  possession  and  ownership  by  the  United  States  of  Anioiici 
under  the  name  of  "New  Columbia."  The  island  had  horetdluiv 
appeared  on  some  charts  as  Wrangell  Land,  and  on  others  as  Kolli'lt 


nortliwrsi 
)  gales  ( lur 
n;4'('(l  easily 

that  (liitH;- 
at  ImM  tlif 

ibc'tl  altovc. 
oast. 


lieihdi'i'r.'  " 

CX})le.\'il   hy 
tOSplii'i'c  was 
lilt'S  distant, 
rtlicast  true. 
Jilt  tlu'  tiist 
ol)serv;iti(iiis 
(js  and  (»l)scr- 
AnHM'ii'iin 
far   south, 
ect. 


'essor.  Assist- 
le  Cdxswaiii. 
mist  rajuilly 
!i"  position  in 
at  T.oO  A.M. 
five  fathoms 
u  lUio;  raised 
s  of  Aniorira 
,d  hei'etol'oiv 
;rs  as  Kellelt 


y. 

7. 


4r)() 


AMKKICAN    KXTLOUATIONS    IN    TIIK    ICIO   ZONKS. 


u\< 


'. 


Vi 


Land.  The  i)oiut  of  hindin^  was  at  the  most  eastern  part  of  the  ishimi . 
it  was  the  spot  most  likely  to  be  reached  by  any  one  tryiiio-  (,,  n,;,!-,. 
a  landinir  on  that  coast,  forty-live  miles  from  Herald  Island.  In  ,  i,.;,,. 
weather  it  is  in  plain  sight. 

The  river  where  the  "('orwin  "  anchored,  hit.  71"^  04',  lont^.  177  |o 
W.,  was  nanied  Clark  River,  in  honor  of  Major  E.  W.  C'lark,  tlic  ( lii,.| 
of  the  U.S.  Uevenne  Marine.  It  was  about  one  hundred  yards  wide, 
and  deep  and  rapid,  and  from  the  top  of  the  cliffs  near  by,  it  cdui,! 
be  seen  extending  back  into  t^he  mountains  a  distance  of  Imtv 
miles.  The  mountains  devoid  of  snow,  and  seen  under  verv  I'iivoi- 
able  circumstances  through  a  rift  in  the  clouds,  appeared  brown  and 
naked. 

The  stay  on  shore  was  necessarily  short  on  acc^ount  of  the  sinm"- 
northerly  current  which  was  sweej)ing  the  ice  pack  along  with  ii resist- 
ible force.  At  0.30  a.  m.,  being  unable  to  hold  her  position  any  Idinrci'. 
the  ship  commenced  to  work  out  toward  the  lead  which  was  reaclicd  at 
11  A.M.  "We  examined  the  shore  line  with  our  glasses  while  iin- 
proaching  and  leaving  the  land  north  and  south,  and  saw  nothing  hut 
perpendicular  hills  of  slate  from  one  to  three  lunidred  feet  liigji,  the 
sloping  bank  of  the  river  being  the  only  place  for  miles  where  a  party 
travelling  over  the  ice  would  be  able  to  eft'ect  a  landing. 

"No  time  had  been  lost  in  sending  out  parties  to  examine  the  shore 
line,  and  all  prominent  points,  while  the  more  distant  ones  were  caio- 
fidly  seanneil  with  the  glasses  for  signs  of  human  life,  past  or  present, 
but  nothing  was  seen." 

Captain  Hooper  says:  "This  is  undoubtedly  the  part  of  tlu;  land 
seen  by  Captain  Kellett,  K.  N.,  in  1849,  when  he  discovered  and  landed 
on  Herald  Island,  and  which  since  appeared  on  the  British  Admiralty 
charts  as  Plover  Island,  although  erroneously  laid  down  somewhat 
further  to  the  eastward.  We  now  know  that  Plover  Island  has  no 
separate  existence,  and  that  what  Kellett  saw  was  the  main  island." 

In  reference  to  the  name  of  "New  Columbia,"  "it  was  suggested  bv 
the  name  previously  given  to  the  islands  further  west  —  'New  Siberia,' 
and  it  was  believed  that  the  bearing  of  two  names  was  calculated  to 
create  ci>nfusion,  and  that  the  newly  appropriated  name  being  of  a 


I  : 


'.  tlie  isliunl; 

<l.      In  clc;!!' 

•nu;.  ITT  |(»' 
rk,  tlu'  chici' 
yartls  wiilc, 
by,  il  cniild 
iCe  of  furtv 
'  very  ravor- 
il  brown  and 

r  the  struiio- 
with  irn>sist- 
II  any  l(»n<'('r. 
as  roaclit'd  at 
i4es  wliilo  aji- 
■  iiotliinL!,'  but 
feet  bii;li,  thf 
vhere  a  party 

lie  tbo  slinrc 
les  wore  caro- 
or  [ireseiit, 

of  th(^  land 
and  laiuleil 
>h  Admiralty 
'n  soinowhat 
j,laiid  lias  110 
n  island." 
suggested  by 
New  Siberia," 
aleulated  to 
e  being  of  a 


UETUIIN   OK  THE   "COltWlN. 


467 


iiatioiiiil  character  wouhl  imply  no  diHresjiect  to  the  memory  or  give 
olVcncc  to  the  gallant  olVieeis  whos(!  names  it  bore,  but  who  liad  not 
laii<led  oil  it."  The  terms  of  the  Treaty  of  1861)  between  tiie  United 
Stales  and  Russia  would  seem  to  debar  possession  liy  the  United  States 
(if  these  barren  islands;  the  (luestion,  involving  the  right  of  discovery, 
has  not,  as  yet,  been  mooted  between  the  two  (jovernments. 


WUANCSELL   LAND    AN    ISLAND. 

The  diseovery  that  it  is  an  island  of  limited  extent  is  to  be  ac(M'edit(!d 
to  Coinmander  DeUong,  who  «lrifted  in  the  ".leannctte"  in  the  winter 
(if  ls7S)-80  across  the  meridians  embi'iiced  within  its  extremes,  and  in 
|ilain  sight.  It  will  probably  occur  to  the  reader  that  the  early  reports 
hy  Long  and  Itaynor,  as  well  as  those  of  Kellett,  were  largely  the 
foundation  of  the  hope  of  finding  it  a  continent. 

From  this  iirst  exploration  of  VVrangell  La!id,  Captain  Hooper 
crossed  over  to  Point  Barrow,  where  he  found  a  part  of  tlu;  crew  of  the 
wiialer  "  Daniel  Webster,"  whose  (■ai)tain,  not  having  been  familiar 
witli  Arctic  navigation,  had  remained  in  a  lead  just  half  an  hour,  long 
enough  to  have  his  ship  crushed.  Nine  of  the  crew  who  had  escaj)ed 
to  the  shore  were  taken  aboard  the  "  Corwin,"  others  having  gone  over- 
land to  Icy  Cape. 

August  24,  the  cutter  had  again  made  a  distance  of  six  hundred 
miles,  arriving  in  Plover  liay  where  was  found  the  "Golden  Fleece," 
with  Lieutenant  Ray  of  the  U.  S.  A.  Signal  Service,  on  his  way  to 
establish  a  meteorological  station  at  Point  Harrow. 

On  the  27th  the  "  Corwin  "  sailed  to  the  northward,  and  soon  after 
again  sighted  tlie  blue  peaks  of  Wrangell  Land,  standing  along  the  ice 
pack  from  which  she  neared  Herald  Island,  but  in  a  tierce  gale  that 
lasted  several  days,  lost  her  iron  ice-breaker,  and,  as  the  oak  sheathing 
which  had  protected  the  soft  Oregon  plank  around  her  bows,  was  also 
entirely  gone,  the  Captain  could  not  again  venture  into  the  ice.  After 
miisiiig  eastward  into  the  vicinity  of  Kotzebue  Sound  and  Hotham 
Inlet,  and  at  St.  Michael's,  receiving  on  board  a  second  party  of  ship- 


468 


AMIOUKWN    KXPLOUATIONS    IN    Til  10    U'K    ZONES, 


-  :!' 


wioi'kod  inoii,  the  cuttor  was  on  licr  wiiy  to  Sun  Fraiicist-o  wIhi,.  -,1,,. 
aiiivod  Octolu'i-  L'l,  1881. 

WliiMi  tlra\viii_q;  ii[)  liis  t'ull  rt'i)ort  of  tlii.s  criiiso,  after  tlio  rc>(!('i»ti(iii  of 
till'  news  ill  llio  riiilod  States  of  the  "  .leannette  "  and  the  *'  luidn,., ,  •• 
HoojK'r  eonehides:  "  I  eannot  refrain  fi'om  making  a  brief  rctcrcinc  i,, 
tlio  fate  of  one  of  the  oI)je(;ts  of  our  seareh,  tlu;  '.Ieannet((-,  aiKl  L.i 
olVu'ers  and  erew.  'IMit;  heart-rending  (h'tails  of  that  sad  aflair  iiic  n,,, 
fresh  in  the  minds  of  all  (o  re(inire  repetition  here,  bnt  I  (icsii,.  (,, 
express  my  [irofound  sorrow  for  their  misfortmu's,  ovei- which  nH  \\^^, 
civilized  worltl  grieves,  and  my  unbounded  a(bniration  for  tlicii  Imti- 
tnde,  and  their  heroic  exertit)ns  in  making  the  most  remarkable  ninai 
over  the  ice;  ever  made  by  man,  from  the  place  where  the  vessel  sunk  to 
the  Lena  Delta;  for  their  brave  struggle  Tor  existence  after  reacliin.r 
the  land,  and  their  cheerful  resignation  to  fate  when  death  in  its  ninsi 
awful  form  stared  them  in  the  face  and  claimed  them  one  by  one.  Tlic 
diary  of  ('a[)tain  DeLong,  written  almost  as  he  drew  his  last  hicutli, 
relates  acts  of  heroism  and  self-sacritice  which  arc  not  excelled  in  tlu' 
annals  of  history.  Not  the  least  of  them  was  the  devotion  of  the  laitli- 
ful  Alexai,  an  lunuit  from  St.  Michael's,  going  out  almost  daiiv  in 
search  of  game,  freezing  and  starving  as  he  was,  but  bringini;'  llio 
small  anu)unt  secured  to  the  commanding  ollicer  to  be  distrilmtiil 
fairly  to  every  one  of  the  party,  and  at  night,  with  the  temperature  at 
zero,  or  i)erhaps  lower,  taking  otfhis  seal-skin  robe  to  cover  his  belovcij 
captain.  Surely  when  the  tinal  suuiming-up  shall  be  made  in  the  list 
of  heroes  who  have  laid  down  their  lives  for  the  benetit  of  their  felhiw- 
men,  the  name  of  Ahwni  will  not  be  forgotten." 

Captain  Hooper  refers  also  in  like  terms  to  the  courageous  and 
noble  efforts  of  Master  C  F.  Putnam,  U.  S.  N.,  of  the  •'  Hodgors.""  df 
whose  loss  on  the  ice  tloe  the  sad  intelligence  had  been  received. 

The  (dlicial  report  of  this  cruise,  still  on  the  iiles  of  the  Treasurv 
Department,  will  be  foiuid  to  embrace  discussions  on  several  to{)ics,  such 
as  the  currents  and  the  ice  of  the  Arctic  Sea,  the  habits  and  clianictcr 
of  the  Ininiits,  and  others  within  the  general  tenor  of  liis  instructions 
but  outside  of  the  narrative  furnished  by  the  ship's  log.  Some  jxiints 
were  visited  not  heretofore  described  by  any  other  Arctic  navigator. 


»  wIktc  >1i(. 


rc(!('|)ti()ii  (if 

rdVrt'iicc  lo 
t(-,  ami  liiT 
ilTair  aic  tuo 

I  (irsiic  til 
hich  all  iho 
•  their  imti- 
Iciibli'  icln'ai 
esscl  sank  tu 
't«M'  rcacliiiij;' 
h  in  its  iimsi 
)y<)iH'.     'rill' 

last   hicatli, 
jelU'd  ill  tlio 

ol'  llu'  failh- 
ildst.  ilailv  ill 


J   ( 


iii;4iiii;'   llio 

listrilmtcil 

mporalurc  at 

his  Ix'IovimI 

e  in  tlie  list 

theii'  tVUow- 


vajjjcons  and 
{odjjjevs."  t>t' 
cived. 

tlio  Tivasurv 
1  topics,  such 
iiid  charai'tcv 
instriu'tii)iis 
Some  puints 
ic  navigator. 


im 


m'> 


m 


1;is 


'i 


ronlta*- 


ht- 


I  "T 


THE    UKLIEF   HIIII'S. 


473 


As  all  additional  illnstration  of  the  utter  uncertainty  of  ico-navigation 
ill  the  Arctic  Seas  and  of  the  (!urrcnts  tiierein,  it  may  be  here  mentioned 
tluil  in  his  ])reliminary  report  of  the  cruise  made  up  before  receiving 
ne\vs  of  the  ".leannette,"  lie  had  stated  his  own  coujilusions  while  in 
tlif  ••  Arctic,"  that  the  ill-fated  ship  had  probably  drifteil  to  the  north- 
east, and  reconunended  that  a  vessel  be  sent  to  Melville  Island,  and 
another  to  Priiice  Patrick  Land  for  her  relief;  but  it  will  be  rcmiMiibcrcsd 
ill  this  connection  how  early  in  the  voyage  of  the  ".IcniniKftte,"  Del^ong 
was  c(»ni2)elled  to  record  his  aban(h>nment  of  the  hope  of  his  being 
caiiicd  northeast,  and  his  entire  submission  to  the  facts,  against  all  theo- 
ries, that  the  Arctic  currents  are  the  results  of  local  i)re vailing  winds 
only.  Of  this.  Captain  Hooper  also  states  his  own  like  experience 
(lining  these  two  cruises,  in  which  he  sailed  over  twelve  thousand  miles, 
iuiil<iiig  thorough  search  of  both  the  American  and  Asiatic  shores,  for 
tidings  of  the  lost  whalers  and  the  exploring  steamer  "•  Jeannette." 


CRUISE  OF  THE  U.   S.   S. 


K()D(}ERS. 


Tlie  Spring  of  1881  brought  no  further  news  of  the  "  Jeannette." 
Tilt'  United  States  Congress  received  a  luuuber  of  petitions,  asking  that 
the  Navy  Department  should  send  out  a  relief  ship,  and  President  Gar- 
tield  was  forcibly  addressed  for  the  same  object  by  the  President  of  the 
Aiiicrican  Geographical  Society,  Hon.  Judge  C.  P.  Daly  of  New  York. 
Ill  the  Act  making  an  appropriation  for  the  Civil  expenses  of  the 
Gnvornment,  ai>proved  March  3,  1881,  the  sum  of  $175,000  was  ap- 
pro) niated  "to  enable  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy  immediately  to  charter 
or  purchase,  equip  and  supply  a  vessel  for  the  prosecution  of  a  search 
for  the  steamer  '  Jeannette,'  and  such  other  vessels  as  might  be  found 
to  need  assistance  during  said  cruise ;  provided  that  the  vessel  be 
wholly  manned  by  volunteers  from  the  navy."  This  last  clause  as 
appears  by  a  letter  from  the  late  Commodore  Jeffers,  Chief  of  the 
Bureau  of  Ordnance,  was  designed  by  Congress  to  emphasize  its  view 
that  the  new  expedition  should  have  no  other  object  than  to  search  for, 
and  if  necessary,  relieve  the  missing  party;  it  was  not  to  winter  in  the 
ice  uidess  unavoidable.    The  cruise  of  the  "Rodgers"  was  thus  limited. 


474 


AMERICAN    KXl'LOUATIONH   I\   TIIK    ICK   ZONEN. 


f-  n' 


1  J  Jiji' 


mi  i  ' 

I'-  tfii.ia 


The  first  duty  devolved  upon  Secretiirv  Hunt  was  to  olii,,ii,  .^^ 
Buitiihlo  vessel,  and  equip  und  dispatch  her  to  the  Arctic  r('[,'iciiis  ji, 
season  to  prosecute  a  searuh  before  severe  winter  should  sot  in.  1  luie 
was  no  time  left  to  charter  or  purchase  and  send  rouiul  a  vessel  |i,,|ii 
the  Atlantic  coast,  but  the  Department  succeeded  in  lin(lin<;  nt  Sai, 
Francisco  the  "Mary  and  Helen,"  already  named  in  the  cruist;  i,\'  l\^^, 
"Corwin,"  a  new  and  stronj;  Arctic  Steam  Whaler.  She  was  purchased 
for  the  sum  of  i!<lOO,()00.  The  ship  Iiad  been  built  si)ecially  I'm'  Ak  lie 
navigation,  was  fast  under  canvas,  with  a  speed  of  eight  knots  luiiKr 
steam;  the  propeller  was  not  made  to  hoist,  or  the  rudder  to  he  itadilv 
unshipped,  but  these  ])arts  were  specially  strong. 

March  12,  18H1,  the  Secretary  ordered  a  board  of  Naval  otlicci.s  ti. 
discuss  and  report  upon  the  direction  of  the  Search  Kxpeditiiin.  the 
l)est  means  adapti'd  t()  it,  and  its  details.  The  board  was  eompnscd  nf 
the  late  Hear  ^Vdmiral  John  IJodgcrs,  whose  Arctic  expedition  umtli  of 
Bering  Strait  has  been  narratecl;  Captain  J.  A.  (Ircer,  Lifutciiiiut 
Commander  II.  C.  White,  and  Lieutenant  11.  M.  Herry,  olHicers  ol  the 
"Tigress"  in  the  search  for  Captain  Hall;  Lieutenant  W.  1*.  IJinididl; 
I'aynuister  A..S.  Kenny;  Surgeon  J.  S.  Kidder.  Convened  at  the  Xiivy 
Dei)artmcnt,  March  14,  the  Board  made  a  thorough  investigation,  dis- 
cussing, with  the  help  of  many  persons  who  had  been  engaged  in  the 
whaling  service  and  of  other  experts  on  Arctic  subjects,  the  wliole 
subject  committed  to  them,  and  submitting  a  full  rejtort  Abirc  h  liH, 
(Kejiort  of  Secretary  of  Navy,  November  28,  1881.) 

The  chief  points  of  this  pai)er  as  regards  the  search  were,  that  as  the 
purpose  of  Captain  DeLong  had  been  clearly  expressed  to  hmd  at  llmdd 
Island  and  Wrangell  Land  and  leave  cairns  on  each,  and  as  the  Arctic 
Sea  is  too  vast  to  be  explored  with  any  rational  hope  of  success  in  liud- 
ing  the  vessels  except  on  some  definite  information,  the  niissiiig  ex- 
plorers should  be  sought  for  at  the  points  named  ;  not,  however,  with  the 
clear  expectation  of  finding  the  cairns,  but  with  the  possibility  of  res- 
cuing lost  crews.  The  Board  added  a  suggestion  for  a  search  on  the  north 
east  Asiatic  coast,  citing  from  a  letter  from  DeLong,  dated  July  17, 1879, 
that,  in  event  of  disaster  to  the  ship,  he  would  retreat  on  the  Siberian 
settlements  to  the  natives  around  East  Cape,  and  wait  for  a  chance  to  get 


I 


II 


^ 


'  r  1 1  * 


TIIK   ADVISOUV    MOALI). 


475 


;<>  (tlitiiiii  a 
'  r('[,nniis  it, 
t  in.     'I'll,  re 

.  Vt'SScl    1 1(11,1 

linj;'  ;it  S;iii 
ii'uisi'  tif  ill,. 

IS  lllUcllilSHl 

y  for  Arctic 
kiidls  iiiidcr 
U»  1)1'  iciidily 

ll  (itVu'i'is  to 
pt'ditiiiii.  the 

COIllltiiscd  nt' 

Lion  norili  (if 

,    l^icntciiiiiit 

liccrs  (if  the 

,  1'.  llandidl; 

at  the  Xiivv 

;ti»4iiti(»u.  dis- 

aji'rd  ill  tlie 

,  the  wlidlo 

t  Mar(di  'Jtl, 

,  tlial  as  the 

id  at  llciahl 

IS  the  Aretic 

ccess  in  liiid- 

inissin;^  ex- 

ver,  Aviili  the 

bility  ot  res- 

oii  the  north 

uly  IT,  1879, 

the  Siberian 

shance  to  get 


iKick  to  St.  Mieliaers.  Their  opinion  of  the  nnlikelihood  of  cairns  being 
t'oiind  on  the  ishmds  named,  was  founded  chietly  on  tiie  testimony  of 
(iiptain  Mernard  ('o<]fan,  an  experienced  master  of  a  whalinj;  ship,  who 
ex  Illicitly  stated  that  on  the  4th  of  Septemi)er,  1870,  when  tiie  ice  was 
Ml  ;i  l)y  him  risinj:^  ten  or  twelve  feet  out  of  tlio  water,  its  estinnited 
thii  kness  one  hundred  feet,  liummoeky  and  thus  showing  that  the 
c'unents  were  powerful,  the  *'.Ieannette"  steamed  right  into  the  i)ack, 
and  was  seen  enclosed  in  it  and  going  out  of  sight  with  it.  Tlie  testi- 
iiidiiy  furnished  by  l*rofess(U'  C.  Abi)e  and  liieutenant  A.  W.  Greely  of 
ihf  Signal  Service  was  to  the  point  that  the  winter  of  1870-80  was  one  of 
unusual  severity,  the  natives  reporting  that  no  winter  of  such  severity 
had  ever  l)een  known  by  them.  The  mean  temperature  north  of  liering 
Strait  reported  by  the  ollicersof  the  Signal  Service  at  St.  Micihael's  was 
fur  liie  months  of  January  and  Februar}',  on  an  average  thirteen  degrees 
hclnw  zero.  'I'hc  winds  in  that  region  were  between  west,  southwest  and 
iiorth-northwest,  and  the  average  would  be  very  near  west-northwest  — 
a  remarkable  contrast  with  the  actual  experience  of  the  average  east- 
southeast  and  southeast  winds  of  the  "  Jeannette."  Professor  Dall,  of 
the  United  States  Coast  Survey,  whose  opinion  in  regard  to  the  currents 
III'  the  Hering  Strait  and  the  Arctic  Sea  has  been  heretofore  (pioted, 
stated  that  on  his  previous  visit  to  that  region  in  one  of  the  vessels  of 
the  Coast  Survey  he  had  expected  to  lind  a  permanent  current  setting 
northward  during  the  summer  through  the  strait,  but  his  observations 
showed  that  the  cnrrent  varied  with  the  tides;  that  the  tides  were 
irregular,  causing  irregular  currents,  the  warm  water  passing  through 
the  strait  seeming  to  divide  into  three  branches,  one  going  westward, 
another  to  the  northwest,  and  a  third  to  the  northeast;  this  being 
indicated  move  by  the  melting  of  ice  than  by  the  strength  of  current. 
Whaling  sliips  are  lost  in  the  Arctic  every  season ;  two  chief  losses 
heiiig  that  of  thirty-three  at  one  time,  and  thirteen  at  another,  within 
the  last  ten  years.  The  whole  shore  at  Point  Belcher  is  covered 
with  wreckage  for  miles  and  miles. 

The  examination  of  other  experts  by  the  Board  were  chiefly  as  in 
the  case  of  Mr.  Kennan,  Arctic  Explorer  of  Washington,  D.  C,  on  the 
points  of  sledge  travel,  aid  from  the  natives  of  the  Arctic  shores,  and 
other  like  topics. 


I  li 


hm 


V.  I 


476 


AMKIMCAN    EXl'LOKATIONS    IN    THK    ICK   ZONKS. 


May  20,  Sperotavv  Hunt  instnu-tcd  Lieutenant  Herrv,  who  ]|;„| 
been  j)hu'e(l  in  couiniand  of  the  "Helen  and  Mary,"' now  naiiicd  ihe 
"l\()(lovrs,"  in  e(»ui])linienl  to  the  President  ot"  the  Naval  IJoavd,  tliat  he 
shouhl  sail  as  soon  as  the  shi[»  was  tully  ready,  and  jiursui",  as  ihmiIv 
as  pructieable,  tlie  course  reeonnuended.  The  Seerotary  closed  his  let- 
ter witii  the  words,  '"The  eyes  (»t'  your  fellow-countrymen,  of  the  si  icn- 
tific  men  oi"  all  the  world,  and  especially  those  interest(>d  in  Antic 
I^xploralion,  will  follow  you  anxiously  on  your  way  throu<;h  Ihc  im- 
known  seas  to  which  y(»u  g(».  May  Heaven  guard  and  bless  you  and 
yiuir    ollicers    and   men,  and   crown   your   heroism  with   success   ami 


o-lory. 


The  "  Hodgers  "*  was  connnissioned  on  the  oOtli  of  the  monlli,  and 
in  all  the  dei)artnients  of  the  Ts'avy  Yard  at  .Mare  Island,  Cal.,  was  com- 
liletod  ready  for  sea.  She  was  reported  by  the  Commandant  of  lin- 
Yard,  Commodore  T.  S.  Pludps,  as  thoroughly  strengthened,  her  ma- 
chinery thoroughly  overhauled  and  put  in  order,  and  her  engines  and 
ajipliances  found  entirely  satisfactory  on  their  trial  under  steam.  In 
addition  to  the  very  largo  amount  of  stores  and  pemmican  ])urclKised 
from  the  remaiiuler  of  the  ".leannette  "'  Search  MxiJedition  api)roi)ria- 
tion,  the  ship  had  received  three  years'  full  Navy  rations,  the  su])j)ly  en 
board  being  considered  amjile  for  thirty-iive  otHieers  and  men  for  li\o 
years.  The  comnumdant  further  reported  that  in  the  "Kodgers" "' Ill- 
ness for  the  Arctic  cruise,  she  had  never  been  surpassed  or  perhap!? 
equalled  by  any  vessel  equij)i)ed  for  the  Arctic  Regions.  The  shij)  sailed 
from  San  Francisco,  June  1(5,  with  a  comj)lemeut  of  otticers,  all  of  whom 
were  volunteers,*  viz. :    ]Masters  H.  S.  Waring  and  C.  F.  Putnam,  Mn- 


i)j 


m 


}!' 


*  onictrs'  Naval  Record:  — 

Lioutonaut  Robort  M.  IJorry,  roiniuiuuliiic;.  Actiiig-^Iidsliipmaii,  Jan.  31,  180l';  uiuil- 
uatcii.  Juno  1,  1800;  Ensign,  March  12,  1S()8;  Master,  March  20,  1801);  Lieutoiuiiit. 
March  21,  1870. 

Howard  S.  Warinsj,  Executive  OlHcer  and  Navigator.  ^Midshipman,  June  20,  ISOT;  grad- 
uated. June  1,  1S72;  Ensign.  July  5,  1873;  ]\[aster  (Junior  Lieutenant),  July  12,  1S7S, 

Charles  F.  Putnam.  Midshipman,  June  24,  180i);  graduated,  May  31,  1873;  Ensign,  July 
10,  1874;  Master  (Junior  Lieutenant).  March  12,  1880;  lost  on  the  ice  of  St.  Lawrence 
Bay  in  endeavoring  to  render  aid  to  his  shipwrecked  comrades.  Jan.  11,  1882. 

Henry  J.  Hunt.  Midshipman.  June  2:-..  1S70;  graduated,  June  21,  1875;  Ensign,  Sept.  oO, 
1870;  Lieutenant  (Junior  grade).  March  11,  1883. 


THE  SEARCH    ON    WIJANGKLL    ISLAND. 


477 


siyiis  H.  J.  Hunt  and  G.  M.  Stoney,  Suigoons  M.  I).  Jones  and  J.  D. 
Castillo,  Engineer  A.  V.  Zane,  and  Pay  Clerk  W.  II.  (iilder  i'ornierly 
ol  I  lie  Schwatka  Expedition.  OH  the  volunteer  crew  nund)ering  twenty- 
six,  selected  with  great  care,  F.  F.  Melni  had  also  been  with  Lieutenant 
S(  liwatka.  The  shi[)  arrived  at  I'etropaulovski  in  thirty-three  days, 
ami  found  in  port  the  Russian  corvette  "Streloch"  with  instrut^lions 
tVniii  her  Government  to  oiler  any  needed  assistance.  At  St.  Lawrence 
Hay,  Berry  took  on  boai-d  two  Tchuktchis  as  hunters  and  dog  drivers, 
ami  August  20,  entered  the  Arctic  Ocean;  thence  touching  at  Cape 
Sti<lze,  and  learning  there  that  the  "Corwin"  had  already  visited  the 
]i(iint,  he  headed  for  Herald  Island,  and  made  a  partial  search  there  for 
tidings  of  the  missing  whalers,  the  boat  party  being  compelled  by  the 
surf  to  return  to  the  ship. 

The  "  Kodgers"  next  succeeded  in  dropi)ing  anchor  in  six  fiithonis 
of  water  about  iialf  a  mile  from  shore  on  the  southern  coast  of  Wrangell 
Lund  west  of  ('ajjc  Hawaii,  and  linding  a  suudl  harbor  at  the  mouth  of 
(he  lagoon,  was  moved  in.  Three  search  parties  were  then  organized 
for  traces  of  the  missing  explorers,  one  under  Master  S.  II.  Waring  and 
Surgeon  CastiUo,  a  second  uniler  Ensign  Hunt  and  Engineer  Zane,  the 
lliiid  under  Captain  Berry,  accom|)anied  by  Surgeon  Jones.  The  lirst 
|)aity  found  a  cairn  in  which  Surgeon  Uosse  of  the  "Corwin"  had  left 
a  (lis[)atch  August  1'2;  bringing  it  on  l)oard  tliey  left  a  coj)y  in  the 
cairn.  The  boat  of  this  party  was  imprisoned  by  the  pack,  compelling 
tlioni  to  return  to  the  ship  across  the  ice :  it  was  recovered  afterward 
outside  of  the  bay  to  which  it  had  been  carried  by  the  ice-drift.  The 
sciiuul  party  skirted  the  coast  to  the  southward,  westward,  and  nortli- 
ward,  while  the  third  under  Berry  penetrated  the  interior  twenty 
luilcs  in  a  northwest  by  north  direction.  Berry  ascended  a  nu)untain 
near  the  centre  of  the  island,  one  peak  of  which  was  found  by  barometric 


,1^ 


Georm;  P.  Stonoy.     :Midshipnian,  Sept.  21,  1870;  graduated,  Sept.  17,  1875;  Ensign,  Oct. 

1»,  1870;  Lieutenant  (Junior),  June  2.5,  1883. 
Meredith  D.  Jones.    Assistant  Surgeon,  May  17,  1871;  Passed-Assistant  Surgeon,  Feb. 

(1.  1875, 
A.  V.  Zane.    Vndct  Engineer,  Oct.  1,  1871;  graduated.  May  31,  1874;  Assistant  Engineer, 

Feb.  2(),  1875;  Passed-Assistant  Engineer,  Aug.  23,  1881. 
J.  1).  Castillo.     Assistant  Surgeon,  July  0,  1880;  resigned,  Oct.  I,  1883. 


478 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


!!., 


L 


m'^' 


ii 


11  i 


measurement  to  be  two  thousand  five  hundred  feet  high  —  a  remarkable 
confirmation  of  the  estimate  made  by  Captain  Long  of  the  wluiliurr 
barque  "  Nile,"  18G7,  who  sailed  along  the  south  coast  for  two  duvs  as 
has  been  related  in  the  Second  Cruise  of  the  "Corwin."  His  estinuited 
height  of  this  peak  will  be  found  on  the  circumpolar  chart  (pocket  of 
this  volume)  to  have  been  two  thousand  four  hundred  and  eiglitv  feet. 
The  day  was  very  clear,  but  no  land,  except  Herald  Island  was  visil)le 
from  the  summit.  The  whole  coast  line,  except  a  few  miles  of  ontlvino- 
sand  spits,  Avas  examined,  but  Berry  found  it  impossible  to  Ijcliove 
that  any  of  the  missing  parties  had  landed  there.  The  thorouyli  ex- 
amination of  the  coast  was  a  second  determination  of  that  made  ]iiev- 
iously  by  the  ill-fated  "  Jeannette,"  that  Wrangell  Land  is  an  ishnnl 
instead  of  a  i)art  of  the  supposed  Arctic  Continent.  It  is  about  seventy 
miles  long,  east  and  west,  and  thirty-five  miles  broad,  ineludiiio-  tlie 
sand-spits  which  make  out  from  six  to  ten  miles  from  the  north  and 
the  south  coast.  A  range  of  high  hills  extends  completely  around  the 
island  near  the  coast  line,  and  a  lower  range  from  east  to  west  near  the 
centre.  The  whole  island  is  a  succession  of  peaks  and  valleys.  Several 
streams  were  found,  the  largest  of  which,  rising  near  the  centre  peak 
(Berry's),  Hows  into  the  sea  in  an  easterly  magnetic  direction. 

In  "  Hydrographic  Notice,"  No.  84,  of  1881,  Commodore  De  Kraft 
says :  "  The  harbor  was  found  to  be  small  but  excellent,  of  mod- 
erate depth  of  water.  It  is  situated  in  the  southeastern  part  of  the 
island,  and  is  formed  by  a  bight  in  the  coast-line  just  east  of  a  pro- 
jecting promontory.  Protected  on  the  south  by  a  low  neck  of  sand 
and  i)ebblea,  it  is  a  little  more  than  two  hundred  yards  in  extent  either 
way,  with  a  depth  of  from  three  to  three  and  a  half  fathoms  in  the 
centre.  Three  fathoms  can  be  carried  close  to  the  shore  on  the  soiitli 
side,  and  two  and  two  and  a  half  fathoms  close  to  the  bluff,  on  the 
north  side.  There  are  no  hidden  dangers.  The  observation  spot,  near 
the  western  extremity  of  the  low,  sandy  neck,  is  in  lat.  70*^  57'  N..  loner. 
178°  10'  W.  Magnetic  variation  20°  E.  Rise  and  fall  of  tide  five  feet ; 
flood  tide  sets  to  the  southward  and  westward.  .  .  . 

"The  'Rodgers'  left  Wrangell  Island  on  the  13th  of  Septend)er, 
and,  after  nuiking  an  ineffectual  attempt  to  land  on  Herald  Island  to 


'eniavkaV)le 
le  wiiaiiiicr 
W(»  days  as 
s  estimated 
(pock  01  (if 
L'igUty  I'l'L't. 
was  visible 
of  outlyiiifT 

to  believe 
loi'ouj^li  ex- 
nuide  I'vev- 
s  an  hi  1 1  ml 
out  seventy 
cludiiifj;  the 
;  north  and        j- 

around  the       f 
est  near  the       l' 
sys.    Several 
centre  peak        • 
on. 

e  De  Kraft 

nt,  of  nu)d- 
lart  of  the 

st  of  a  pro- 

eck  of  sand 

xtent  either 

loms  in  the 

n  the  south 
uff,  on  the 

n  spot,  near 

57'  N..  h.ncr. 

de  five  feet ;      ♦ . 

Sejiteniber, 
dd  Island  to 


I 


I! 


I'i 


;'■! 


Ui 


I 


JiEUIiy  8   CIIUISE. 


481 


e  ijnplete  its  examination,  steamed  to  the  northward  until  stopjied, 
September  17,  bv  an  impenetrable  pack  in  lat.  73"^  9'  N.,  long.  174°  W., 
when,  it  being  dark,  and  having  made  only  fifteen  miles  after  working 
111!  day,  the  ship  was  made  fast  to  a  Hoe  for  the  night.  New  ice  was 
lormed  during  the  night,  cementing  the  tloes  together,  and  when,  at 
o  A.M.  on  the  morning  of  the  18th,  an  attempt  was  made  to  reach  a 
lead  about  one  hundred  yards  distant,  it  recpiired  an  hour  and  lifteen 
minutes  steaming  at  full  speed  to  accomplish  it,  after  which  the  pack 
was  skirted  to  the  northeastward  until,  having  reached  lat.  73*^  44'  N., 
Idiig.  171°  48'  W.,  it  was  found  impossible  to  proceed  any  farther  in 
tliat  direction.  From  this  position  no  indications  of  land  could  be 
seen  from  the  crow's  nest,  but,  on  the  contrary,  the  soundings  in- 
variably deepened  as  the  vessel  proceeded  north.  It  was  therefore 
thought  best,  as  the  main  pack  trended  well  to  the  southward  of  east 
fi(tm  this  point,  to  return  to  the  northeast  point  of  Wrangell  Island, 
and  proceed  thence  in  a  northwesterly  direction  in  search  of  the  high 
land  reported  by  Captain  Smith,  of  the  whaling  barque  "New  Bedford," 
as  "situated  in  long.  178°  W.,  and  extendhig  as  far  north  of  the 
seventy-third  parallel  as  the  eye  could  reach. 

"  Leaving  Wrangell  Island  a  second  time,  on  September  22,  the  one 
hundred  and  seventy-eighth  meridian  was  crossed  and  a  i)osition  in  lat. 
7.")''  28'  N.,  long.  179°  52'  E.,  was  reached,  where  the  solid  pack  was 
aoain  encountered ;  thence  steeruig  to  the  southeastward,  along  the 
edge  of  tlie  pack,  the  one  hundred  and  seventy-eighth  meridian  was 
lecrossed  in  lat.  73°  N.,  without  sighting  land,  the  horizon  throughout 
and  the  sky  to  the  northward  being  clear.  As  before,  it  was  found 
that  the  depth  of  water  gradually  increased  northward  of  Wrangell 
Island,  but  the  depths  were  less  than  to  the  northeastward,  the 
greatest  depth  (eighty-two  fathoms)  having  been  fuund  at  the  most 
northeasterly  point  reached,  viz.  lat.  73°  44'  N.,  long-  171°  48'  W. 

"  Except  in  a  few  instances,  where  a  lead  was  followed  for  a  short 
distance,  the  ice  was  of  such  a  nature  as  to  make  it  impossible  to  pass 
iis  outer  edge,  consisting  in  some  places  of  heavy  pack  and  in  others 
of  unbroken  fields,  miles  in  extent.  The  field-ice  was  from  two  to 
three  feet  out  of  water." 


t. 


flil 


i' 


1    I 


'li 


482 


AMERICAN   EXl^LORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


m^i 


111   ■:''-■-  I 


»i  I ;, 


4;;'  il,^ 


v'iN' 


THE  RETURN. 

A  longer  stay  would  have  endangered  the  ship  at  this  late  dato 
September  27;  Captain  Berry  therefore  turned  South  for  winter  niiai. 
ters.  Under  the  instructions  of  the  Naval  Board  and  the  Secret  a  rv. 
the  ship  was  not  to  winter  in  the  Arctic  with  any  inordinate  visk 
and  Jierry  deemed  it  useless  to  winter  at  Wrangell  Land  which  had 
proved  to  be  so  small  an  island  with  no  other  land  near  it.  He  headed 
for  the  coast  of  Siberia,  which  he  examined  from  Cape  Jakan  eastward, 
and  on  Tiapka  Island,  twenty  miles  west  of  Cape  Serdze,  he  put  up  a 
house  and  left  a  party  supplied  with  provisions,  clothing,  and  fuel  for  ;i 
year,  with  a  boat,  dogs,  and  sleds,  to  explore  the  coast  westward  in  search 
of  the  "  Jeannette  "  crew,  and  the  survivors  of  the  "  Mount  Wollaston '' 
and  "  Vigilant."  He  would  return  for  this  party  later  in  the  ocasoii 
when  the  falling  snow  had  made  travelling  possible,  or  if  prevented 
from  this,  would  return  for  them  as  soon  as  the  ice  the  next  suiuiuer 
would  permit.  The  party  consisted  of  Master  C.  F.  Putnam,  U.  S.  X., 
Surgeon  Jones,  Mr.  Gilder,  two  seamen,  and  a  native  as  dog  driver. 
Leaving  them  ashore,  October  8,  the  "  Rodgers  "  steamed  for  St.  Law- 
rence Bay,  wliere  she  arrived  after  a  week's  experience  of  thick  and 
stormy  weather  with  violent  gales.  The  preparations  for  the  winter 
were  unfortunately  kept  back  by  continued  bad  weather,  which  [)re- 
vented  the  transfer  to  the  shore  of  a  large  part  of  the  provisions  and 
supplies. 

THE   SHIP   BURNED. 

November  20,  Ensign  Hunt  started  up  the  coast  with  a  dog-team 
to  visit  the  camp  of  Master  Putnam,  but  was  compelled  by  severe 
storms  to  return  to  the  ship.  In  the  morning  of  November  30,  the 
startling  cry  of  fire  was  heard  on  board  the  "  Rodgers,"  issuing  from 
the  hold,  which  Avas  so  closely  filled  with  stores  that  it  was  next  to 
impossible  to  get  water  into  it.  By  4  P.  M.  some  of  these  had  been 
secured,  the  men  working  in  the  smoke  and  carbonic  acid  gas  below 
decks;  the  boats  being  loaded  the  ship  was  abandoned  at  midnight. 
She  drifted  up  the  bay,  rigging  and  sails  on  fire,  and  her  magazine 


the 


PUTNAM   PERISHES. 


483 


late  (lato, 
nter  qiiiir- 
Secrotarv. 
inate   risk, 
wliicli  liiid 
He  IicihIciI 
1  eastward, 
le  put  \\\)  a 
il  fuel  for  a 
I'd  in  search 
kVollastuu  " 

the  oeasoii 
I  prevented 
sxt  sununer 
m,  U.  S.  X.. 
dog  driver. 
or  St.  Law- 
thick  and 

the  winter 

wlueli  [)rc- 
)visions  and 


I  dog-teaiu 
by  severt> 
iber  30,  tlic 
5suing  from 
/•as  next  to 
had  been 
gas  below 
niidniuht. 


|r  magazuie 


I- 


exploded  in  the  early  morning.  The  cause  of  the  fire  could  not  be 
U-arned ;  it  was  probably  from  spontaneous  combustion  or  from  the 
tiring  of  the  deck  underneath  from  the  donkey  boiler. 

In  a  camp  formed  of  overturned  boats,  sails  and  tents,  officers  and 
crt'W  found  a  shelter  from  a  violent  snow-storm  ;  next  morning  a 
party  of  natives  from  the  village  Noomamoo,  seven  miles  off,  came 
to  offer  a  hospitable  refuge  in  their  huts,  and  the  party  after  a  fati- 
guing tramp  were  distributed  among  the  eleven  homes  which  made 
th(>  settlement,  making  the  uncomfortable  exchange  of  ship  life  to  a 
winter's  siege  on  walrus  and  blubber.  Afterward  the  officers  and  crew 
were  divided  into  four  i)arties  and  scattered  in  three  other  villages 
within  a  radius  of  twenty  miles. 

Natives  communicating  the  news  of  the  burning  of  the  ship  to  Put- 
nam, he  started  south  with  four  loaded  sledges  for  their  relief,  meeting 
Lieutenant  Berry,  who  was  on  his  way  to  Putnam's  camp.  Continuing 
his  trip  under  orders,  he  delivered  his  provisions  on  January  4,  and  on 
the  10th  started  on  his  return  accompanied  by  Hunt,  Zane,  Castillo, 
and  three  natives,  driving  his  own  team  of  nine  dogs.  In  an  attempt 
to  face  a  heavy  gale,  probably  not  having  the  ability  to  control  the 
(logs,  or  not  being  aware  of  the  abrupt  deviation  from  tlie  course  taken 
by  the  other  sleds,  he  missed  his  way  in  crossing  the  bay  and  drifted 
out  to  sea  on  an  ice  floe.  An  immediate  hunt  which  was  entreated  of 
the  natives  was  not  permitted  that  night  by  the  violence  of  the  gale, 
and  the  wind  unhappily  detached  the  ice  from  the  shore,  and  carried  it 
to  sea;  next  morning  all  was  clear  water.  On  the  14th  and  on  the  17th, 
tlio  search  was  renewed  along  the  shore  thirty  miles,  but  no  good  news 
was  heard  ;  on  the  29th  it  was  learned  that  six  of  the  dogs  had  come 
ashore  without  harness,  one  of  them  with  a  pistol-shot  wound  in  his 
neck,  given  probably  by  Putnam  who  intended  to  use  it  for  food,  had  he 
succeeded  in  escaping.  He  was  seen  three  tlays  afterward,  being  carried 
out  to  sea,  but  an  earnest  effort  to  reach  him  in  a  canoe  failed,  the  ice 
cutting  through  the  boat.  How  long  he  survived  can  never  be  known; 
the  temperature  was  from  twenty  to  fort}'  degrees  below  zero,  and  he  had 
no  protection  from  the  fierce  winds,  except  his  warm  clothing.  His  death 
was  either  from  the  cold,  want  of  food,  or  from  the  breaking  up  of  the  floe. 


484 


AMERICAN    EXPLOBATIONS    IN   TIIK    WA-]   ZONKS. 


I  t  i 


'i    ' 


ti  W  ' 

\w . 


,M 


A  ni(»ii(li's  search  on  the  shore  made  by  Waring  and  Stoney  n^vcah d 
notliiiiu^  more  of  one  of  the  most  j)roniising  olheers  of  tlie  exi)i'(hti(iii. 

In  tlie  meantime,  February  8,  Lieuteiumt  licrry,  as  yet  unaciiiMint,.,! 
witli  this  sad  disaster,  left  Cape  Serdze  witii  Hunt  to  follow  liu!  ccast 
westward  in  search  of  the  missing  crews;  arriving  at  the  Uussiaii  |i,,si 
of  Nislnie  March  -4,  he  learned  of  the  landing  oi'  part  of  tli(>  '".hMu. 
nette's"  crew  at  the  mouth  (>f  the  Lena,  and  continued  his  jouukv. 
overtaking  Chief  Engineer  Melville's  search  i)arty,  and  |)rocee(liii«'-  i,i 
Yakutsk.  lierry  intended  to  lit  out  a  new  expedition,  but  on  leainimr 
that  Lieutenant  Ilarber  had  beon  ordered  by  Secretary  Chandler  to  iimke 
a  sununer  search,  he  returned  home,  and  Hunt  joined  Harber. 

The  party  from  the  "Rodgers"  left  on  shore  at  St.  Lawrence  |',;iv 
under  ALister  Waring,  L\S.  N.,  was  received  on  board  the  wlialinn- 
bar(|ue  ''North  Star,"  Captain  I-,.  C.  Owens,  of  New  liedford,  M;\\  s, 
the  Cajitain,  having  heard  of  the  party  by  a  letter  which  Waring  Jiad 
entrusted  to  the  natives  for  any  passing  whaling  vessel,  had  forced  his 
ship  through  the  op[)osite  ice  for  their  rescue.  On  their  way  to  Ouna- 
laska,  falling  in  with  the  revenue  cutter  "Corwin,"  the  "  llodgeis" 
[)arty  were  transferred  to  her,  arriving  in  San  Francisco  June  2;5,  iHiSiI. 
In  his  re[)ort  to  the  Department,  Lieutenant  Berry  earnestly  rccdiii- 
mended  that  the  Tchuktchis  of  St.  Lawrence  Bay  be  rewarded  for  tiicir 
hospitality,  to  encourage  them  to  aitl  the  crews  of  any  of  our  whaling 
or  other  vessels  that  may  be  wrecked  upon  their  coast.  Before  leaviiio' 
them.  May  14,  Master  Waring  had  distributed  among  them  all  the 
remaining  supplies  and  annnunition.  A  court  of  inquiry  asked  for  hv 
Lieutenant  Berry  fully  exonerated  him  for  the  loss  of  the  "  Uodgers."' 

Secretary  Chandler  having  approved  the  recommendation  to  rewiird 
the  Tchuktchis,  an  a[)propriation  of  !t'8,000  was  made  by  Congress  fur 
this  purpose,  and  on  the  12th  of  March,  1883,  Lieutenant  Stoney  was 
sent  out  by  the  Navy  Department  to  distribute  such  presents  as  Beiiy 
should  suggest  to  the  natives,  including  the  women  who  had  (•'."paired 
the  clothing  of  the  seamen  of  the  "  Rodgers."'  The  Act  of  Congress 
recites  the  purpose  of  "suitably  rewarding  the  natives  at  and  about  St. 
Lawrence  Bay  who  housed,  fed,  and  extended  otlier  kindnesses  to  the 
officers  and  men  of  the  U.  S.  S.  '  Hodgers.'  " 


Tin 

means 
of  her 


iri:si'i/r  ok  tiik  cki'isk 


48/ 


■  rcvciilcd 
"(litioii. 
utiuaiiilcil 
tin;   enlist 
SsiiUi  iiusl, 
llO  ".Icilll- 

s  journey, 
iocdiiii;'  1(1 
II  It'iiriiiiit;' 
er  to  iiiiike 
r. 

n'CMiec  r>iiy 
le    \vh;iliii<j; 
iril,  M;iy  S. 
Viuiii*^  had 
.  I'orcHMl  liis 
ly  to  Oiuia- 
'  Uodejevs' "' 
lie  2n,  IS^-J. 
stly  reeoiii- 
vA  lor  tlieii' 
)uv  \vhuliii<jf 
ire  leaviii,^ 
am  all  the 
ced  for  hy 
Rodgers."" 
to  reward 
longrcss  t'<ir 
Stoney  was 
ts  as  r)LMiy 
ad  repaired 
3i'  Congress 
d  about  St. 
sses  to  tho 


At  the  incoting  of  tlie  Royal  (Jeographical  Society,  Lnndoii,  hold 
Decieiubcr  1-,  ISSI,  tlu!  Secretary,  ('.  I{.  Markhaiu,  said:  — 

"The  ('oini)l('te  ('Xi)loration  of  Wraiigell  Land  hy  the  ollicers  of  the 
'Uodgers'  is  a  great  geographieal  acdnevenieiit.  For  this  far-olV  island, 
so  long  heard  of  and  at  last  sighted,  hut  al\va3s  on  the  very  threshold 
of  the  unknown,  has  been  one  of  the  longed-for  goals  of  discovery  ever 
siiiec!  the  'I'ehuktchis  told  Haion  Wrangcdl  that  it  eoidd  be  seen  <in  a 
(lear  day  from  ('a[)e  .lakan.  'I'hey  sai<l  that  luM'ds  of  deer  sonietinies 
caiiu!  from  tluMice  across  tlu^  ice;  and  their  traditions  related  how  the 
Onkilon,  Omoki,  and  other  tribes  had  wandercid  northward  over  tlu; 
lee  to  distant  laiuls.  So  that  there  was  a  halo  of  romance  over  the 
Siix-riau  'Ultima  Thule,"  which  was  heightened  by  the  gallant,  but  vain 
cfiorts  of  Wraivu'ell  Iiimself  to  rea(di  it  by  <h)g  sledges  in  1H22  and  l82o. 
At  length  it  was  actually  sighted  by  Captain  Kellett  in  184J),  when  lie 
discovered  Herald  Island  in  71°  \'l'  N.  Tim  American  Captain  Long 
also  sighted  it  in  1S('>7,  and  others  have  done  so  since. 

"  But  now  it  has  been  thoroughly  explored,  and  is  u  mystery  no 
longer.  Wrangell  Land  tiuns  out  to  be  an  island  forty  miles  broad, 
hetween  70°  oO'  N.  and  71°  32'  N.,  sixty-six  miles  long  and  eighty  miles 
t'nini  the  nearest  point  on  the  Siberian  coast;  Herald  Island  lies  thirty 
miles  due  east." 


CIUTISE    OF    THE    UNITKI)    STATES    STEAMER    "ALLIANCE,"    JUNE    16    TO 

OCTOIJEII    II,   IS81. 

KITTINO  OUT  OF  TIFF  "^  ALLIANCE." —  INSTIMTCTIONS  TO  COMMANDER 
COOPER  AND  TO  COMMANDEir  WADLEICH.  —  AKUIVAL  AT  UEVIvIAVIK. 
—  DESCRIPTION  OF  THE  'MEANNETTE"  CIRCULATED. —  THE  HAKIJOR 
ol'  HAMMERFEST,  NORWAY.  — GREEN  RAY,  SPIT/I'.EHOEN.  —  TIDAL 
MARKS  ESTAHLISHED. — CRUISE  IN  LAT.  70*^. — THE  ICE  MARRIER. — 
UKTURN  TO  THE  UNITED  STATES  UNDER  ORDERS. 

The  Navy  Department,  in  order  to  avail  itself  of  every  possible 
means  of  relief  to  the  "Jeannette"  or  her  olificers  and  crew  in  event 
of  her  loss,  "determined  at  the  same  time  with  the  sending  of  the 
'Rddgers"   through    Bering    Strait,   to    dispatch    another  vessel    on   a 


486 


AMERICAN    EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


cruise  for  tho  missing  ship  hotween  Greenland,  Iceland,  and  t\w  VAwmt 
of  Norway  and  Si)itzbert^en  as  far  north  as  77°  hit.,  and  furtht'i'  ii  it 
sbouhl  he  found  ])racticahle  without  (hmger  from  the  ice.  Secictaiv 
Hunt  reported  to  Congress  that  this  decision  was  made  on  the  suf^i-cs- 
tiou  of  "the  liberal  and  public-spirited  citizen  through  whose  nnniiti- 
cence  and  disinterested  efforts  to  contribute  tt)  the  cause  of  scicMUic,  tlic 
SJeannette'  had  been  sent  forth."  The  U.  S.  screw  steamer  ''Alli- 
ance," third-rate,  of  the  North  Atlantic  Fleet,  was  selected  tor  ih,. 
service,  and  fitted  for  Arctic  Exploration  at  the  Norfolk  Navy  Yaitj, 
chietly  by  live-oak  sheathing  to  her  bow  and  a  strong  iron  guard  on 
her  stem. 

June  14,  the  Secretary  instructed  Commander  G.  II.  Wadlclcrji, 
ordered  to  succeed  Commander  Cooi)er,  detached  on  account  of  ill 
health,  that  he  would  first  ascertain  the  limits  of  the  pack-ice  betwiMMi 
Greenland  and  Spitzbergen,  and  should  make  the  fullest  observations 
practicable  of  sea  temperatures,  and  of  other  ocean  phenomena,  inchid- 
ing  specific  gravity  and  degrees  of  phosphorescence,  with  speciiiKMis 
from  the  surfiice,  and  by  drag-nets  from  the  bottom.  Tiie  no^tluMii 
waters  offer  a  fine  field  for  these  researches,  and  few  of  their  organisms 
are  found  in  American  collections;  these,  therefore,  with  those  of  fuuna 
and  flu. a,  were  to  be  made  at  every  convenient  landing  at  Iceland, 
Greenland,  and  Spitzbergen.  Commander  Wadleigh  was  also  to  prepare 
for  the  Hydrograi)hic  Oflice  a  chart  with  the  drawing  of  the  ship's 
track,  and  of  the  field  ice  and  icebergs  encountered. 

These  instructions  for  the  benefit  of  science  Were  to  be  subordinated 
to  those  previously  given  to  Commander  Cooper,  dated  May  27,  1881, 
in  which  Secretary  Hunt  had  marked  out  with  more  than  usual  (Uitail 
the  route  of  the  "Alliance,"  enclosing  even  an  itinerary,  but  still  leav- 
ing as  usual  much  to  the  commander's  discretion,  except  that  the  time 
of  the  cruise  in  the  Arctic  Region  was  limited  to  Seiitember  25,  the 
ship  not  being  fitted  for  Arctic  Exploration,  but  sent  only  as  a  roliof. 

June  16,  the  "  Alliance  "  left  Hampton  Roads,  reached  St.  Jolin's 
the  24th,  and  Reykiavik,  July  12.  Here,  the  Parliament  of  Icehuid 
being  in  session,  Governor  Finssen  made  many  inquiries  of  the  nuMii- 
bers  in  regard  to  the  currents,  drift-wood,  etc.,  setting  on  the  coasts. 


OHSEllVATIONS   HY  THK   "ALLIANCE. 


487 


Wa(ll('i<j;li, 
ount  (»r  ill 
ce  between 
bservatidiis 
enii,  iiieliid- 
i  specinuMis 
10  nO|itlioni 
r  oi-fifiuiisms 

ISO  of  filUIlil 

it  Iceland, 
to  pvejian! 
the  ship's 

lovdinated 
ly  27,  IHSl, 
isual  detail 
t  still  leav- 
at  the  time 
jer  25,  the 
as  a  voliot". 
St.  flohiTs 
of  Iceliiiid 
f  the  uuMu- 
the  coasts. 


Comniimder  Wadleigh  distributed,  tlirough  the  members,  a  descrip- 
tion of  the  "  Jeiiiiiiette,"  printed  in  Icelandic,  with  the  ofler  of  a  reward 
for  any  reliable  information  from  the  districts  represented.  Captain 
Vence,  c)f  the  French  corvette  "  Dupleix,"  put  at  Wadleigh's  disposal 
the  result  of  surveys  which  he  had  been  making  around  the  island. 

July  24,  the  ship  anchored  in  the  harbor  of  Ilammerfest,  Norway, 
cniising  from  which  on  the  81st,  she  sighted  Hear  Island,  and  finding 
it  surrounded  by  ice,  went  from  thence  to  Bel  Sound  and  Green  Har- 
bor, Si)it/.bergen,  cruising  along  the  edge  of  the  ])ack  as  far  as  lat. 
80°  10'  N.,  anil  running  as  far  east  as  long.  18"  15',  to  a  point  ten  miles 
northwest  of  Welcome  Point,  along  which  the  ice  was  impenetrable, 
(ireen  Bay  was  found  to  be  the  most  frequented  harbor  of  Spitzbergen; 
it  is  well  pr(jtected  from  all  but  nortiioast  winds,  is  very  deep,  vessels 
of  any  size  being  accustomed  to  anchor  in  from  twenty-five  to  thirty 
fathoms  of  water,  and  then  within  a  cable's  length  of  the  shore. 

Saxe  Haven  was  found  nearly  full  of  ice  August  5.  Here  Lieutenant 
Perkins  of  the  "Alliance"  searched  for  the  tide  mark  left  there  by 
Professor  Nordenskiold  in  18G4,  but  did  not  find  it,  probably  from  the 
crumbling  of  the  rocks.  He  left  a  tide  mark  on  the  southeast  side  of 
tlio  same  small  islet,  "just  off  the  entrance  to  Saxe  Haven"  as  named 
by  Nordenskiold,  consisting  of  a  copper  plate  with  the  ship's  name  and 
date  of  visit ;  the  spike  holding  the  plate  being  nine  feet  above  the  sea 
at  low  water,  1  P.  M.,  August  5. 

With  Master  Schwenk  he  also  established  a  bench  mark  on  a 
boulder  in  the  middle  of  a  small  bight  west  of  Hakluyt's  Headland, 
Amsterdam  Island,  lat.  79°  49'  N.,  long.  11°  15'  E.,  and  drove  a  spike 
into  a  natural  tablet  on  the  cliff  bearing  northeast  and  north  from  the 
jilate.  These  bench  maiks  were  established  in  accordance  with  the 
suogestions  of  the  International  Arctic  Commission  for  hypsometrical 
iind  tidal  observations  as  included  in  the  instructions  of  the  Navy  De- 
jiartment.  The  time  of  high  water,  full  moon,  August  10,  was  found 
to  he  one  hour  forty-four  minutes  A.  M. ;  rise  and  fall  of  tide,  four  feet 
eleven  inches.  The  dip  of  the  magnetic  needle  at  same  place  was  80° 
31'  13".5.  The  variation  of  the  compass  on  Moff  Island,  south  latitude, 
was  17°  80'  45"  W.,  and  the  dip  of  magnetic  needle  80°  32'  48". 


r  :i 


I  ,  1-  r  ■'■  ■    :  I  .  * 


I  '(■' 


488 


iUli:i:iCi\N    KXI'LOUATIONS    IN    TIIK    K'K   ZONKs. 


August  -JT,  the  "  Alliaiice"  left  Siiitzhcr^'cii  aixl  cniiscd  iindcr  sail 
until  SfptcnilHT  11,  to  llammeit'ost,  after  which  she  siieeeeded  in  .r.]. 
tiiMj;  again  as  far  north  as  7!>°  iV  :{(>".  The  ice  and  the  weather  showed 
Commander  NVadieigh  that  it  would  he  unsafe  to  attempt  to  reach 
('ap<'  Mrewster;  no  ship,  he  thought,  should  attem[)t  to  force  a  luissafc 
to  till!  east  coast  of  (ireenland  without  heing  titted  to  pass  at  least  dm. 
winter  in  the  iee.  September  2'),  under  the  instructions  of  the  Dchan- 
ment  as  already  named,  he  began  his  return,  arriving  ut  Ueykiavik,  ( )( id. 
ber  10,  Halifax,  Xova  Scotia,  November  1,  and  New  York,  on  (he  liil,. 
While  at  Reykiavik  he  received  news  from  CJovernor  Kinsscii  nf  ih,. 
8tran<ling  and  wreck  of  a  merchant  vessel  of  twelve  hundred  Inns, 
June  :20,  1881,  on  the  rocks  just  outside  of  Thorshaven.  'I'he  (Idvcin- 
niental  examination  which  had  been  made  of  this  ship  had  i'onnd  niKin 
it  the  inscription  "Jamestown,"  Boston,  Mass.  There  was,  howevci',  no 
information  offered  to  (.'omnmnder  Wadleigh,  indicating  in  any  manner 
the  slightest  knowledge  or  rumor  of  the  '^  Jeannette." 

'I'he  instiuctionsof  the  Department  in  regard  to  scientific  objects  wcio 
carried  out  as  far  as  practicable  by  making  lloral  and  geological  collec- 
tions, s[)ecimens  of  birds  and  animals,  and  the  more  imj)ortant  Ihilin- 
graphical  data  which  have  been  named.  The  cruise  had  its  origin  in  ilic 
possibility  of  the  (h'ift  of  the  *•  Jeannette"  by  a  northwest  current  mto 
the  open  Polar  Sea  of  theory,  and  u  successful  crossing  into  the  rcginn 
searched  by  the  "Alliance."  This  possibility  justified  the  cruise.  Init 
the  unfortunate  "  Jeannette  "  was  near)-^  a  half  circle  further  east,  and 
beyond  the  impassable  North  Asiatic  ice  barrier.  The  cruise  of  the 
"Alliance"  closed  the  efforts  of  America  for  the  relief  of  the  "'.lean- 
nette."  It  is  of  interest  to  note  that  Expeditions  were  proposed  In  nnr 
English  and  French  friends,  and  that  they  would  have  been  sent  ont 
had  not  the  news  been  received  from  the  parties  on  the  Siberian  coast. 
See  Proceedings  of  Royal  Geograi)hical  Society,  and  of  the  Societo 
de  Geographic. 

Note. — The  opportunity  offers  itself  at  this  hour  only,  to  correct  a  previous  state- 
ment (quoted),  that  Lieutenant  Chipp's  observations  made  on  the  "  Jeannette  "  wcih 
lost  with  his  boat.  Engineer  Melville  brought  to  Washington  every  particle  of  the 
"Jeannette"  Records  ;   all  wcire  found  by  liiui  on  the  f^ena  Delta. 


CHAPTER    XII. 

TIIK    ANTAUCTIC   CUUISK   OK    MKl'TKNANT   (LATK   ADMIKAL)   CHAULKS 

WILKKS.  r.  S.  N.,  ls:Ji»-U). 

Tin;  ANTAKCTK!  IlKOloN  A  TKIiliA  ISrodSITA.  —  OM.IKCT  OF  ITS  KX- 
I'LOKATIONS  (;OMI>AUKI)  WITH  KXl'LoUATlONS  IN  TMK  AUCTIC.  — 
NATIONAL  AID  KKgUIUKD.  —  HAUMKST  AMKUICAN  I)IS(;oVKUY. — 
I'OItlCKJN  KXPLOItATIONS,  IMIIVATK  AND  NATIONAL. —  NVILKKs"  Cltl'ISK 
A  I'AUT  OK  TIIK  PLANS  oK  TIIK  KXI'LOi;iN(J  KXI'KDITlON  OK  18.W-42. — 
olMiANlZATlON  OK  TIIK  SQlADItoN  AND  ITS  KOl'TK. —  KIHST  CUIMSK 
TOWAIJDS  cook's  SK-l'IJ  S-TLTliA.  -  (lU'ISK  ALON(i  TIIK  I("V  IIAU- 
IMKH.  —  UKl'OKTKD  DISCOVKItY  OK  TIIK  CONTINKNT.  —  AWARD  OK  TIIK 
(iOLD  iMKDAL  HV  KOVAL  OKOd  I!  Al'll  ICAL  SOOI  KTV,  LONDON.  —  DISCOV- 
KKIKS  OK  ItOSS. — SOIKNTIKK'  ItKSULTS. — COLLKCTIONS  IN  TMK  NA- 
TIONAL MUSKUM,    WASHINCiTON. 

IT  lias  been  forcibl}-  reinarkod  that  of  some  parts  of  our  eavtli  we 
know  less  than  we  (h)  of  the  moon  or  even  of  some  of  the  distant 
])lanets.  The  Astronomer  has  measnred  the  lunar  mountains  and 
their  craters,  and,  passing  heyond  our  satellite,  has  determined  some- 
tliiiii;'  of  the  physical  condition  not  only  of  the  nearer  planets  of  the 
Solar  system,  but  of  those  of  the  more  remote ;  by  the  revelations  of 
the  si)ectroscope,  learning  in  part  the  structure  of  the  nearer  members 
of  the  Stellar  universe.  Jiut,  even  at  this  day  of  advanced  science,  and 
of  the  marvellous  appliances  which  she  both  creates  and  uses,  the  true 
physical  character  of  the  furthest  northern  and  southern  regions  of  the 
glohu  renuiins  almost  unknown  ;  the  seemingly  simple  question,  how 
imicli  land  and  how  much  open  water  exists  within  the  Arctic  and 
Antarctic  zones,  cannot  be  answered.  Ks])ecially  is  this  true  of  the 
Antarctic  zone,  to  which  few  indeed  give  a  passing  thought,  finding  it 
on  their  maps  and  in  their  geograi)hio«,  a  blank. 

In  this  point  and  as  regards  the  efforts  of  the  exi)lorer  to  penetrate 
uitliiii  the  circle,  a  marked  contrast  jiresents  itself  in  relation  to  the 
iilijiosite  Polar  Region — a  contrast  Avhich  has  been  briefly  spoken  of  in 

489 


I     II 


If 


H! 


'i-n 


i 


\w 


AMI'ini'AN     |i:\IM,«MiArh>NM    IN     lllh;    MM',    /,ON|i',M. 


(lie  lusl  )<;i)>»'M  t>r  (Ins  volinn'.       Tho  rxhi'inc   iitlllinil   tlilTciciinvMii  (I 
('h;\rii('l»M'  III    the    (wo    /niics   mm   (Iiccc  irriMlcd    (n,  will   slh»\v  (ii 


H» 


<'UI.'4('1\  I';; 

NOim'wliMl  iiioir  ;i(  Umij'JIi  in  wluil  lit'r(>  IhIIowh,  liy  ruiil  iiislni!'  (he 
»>l\)t'i'(M  ot  cNpl.Uiiditns  willnn  \hv  (wo  nrt-lcs.  imkI  llic  clVoils  irsMJImi' 
Ironi  (luMn.      Am   ml  i»>iln»'(oi  \ ,  (lurrlorr,  (on  Wriol'  iiolicool"    Ahum  Uiui 


I'lc 


Aniaii'lu'  l'.\|>IiMii(ion.  i(  im  |Mii|n>f   lo   |iiinm  in  n  virw  (lir  o1»|(«(>Im  ln'i 
i\\o   I'lut't     Anl;ii»lu'    voviis^cis;   iKimiiij;   iilid    lo»';i(iiig  uIho   then    (i.ul^s 

mill   thsi'ON  (M  It'M. 

Tlu'   ;n«>:i   oi'  llu'  AuliHilic   ('iit'lc   is  ('if',li(    million  oiir   Iniiulici  imd 
lii"(v  li\('  ihonsMud  si\  liuiulri'd  M(|II!II(>  niilcM,  ;in  iwva  r(iiiiil  in  r\(cnl  in 


du'    OlU'MVlh    I 


ill!    of    ih 


('  cnliro 


ImimI 


MinriUT   ol"  (lie   I'lohc  ;    il; 


nni'\ 


l^lon  (1    poinon    iihoiit     Iwuc    ;im   1;ii«<»'   ;im    Murom'.      l.icilliMiiiiil    Mumv, 
tVoni  w  host'  l'h\si»'iil  <  i('o>';rii|)liv  ol'  ilu'  Scm  ( cnljirj^tMl  (>tlilion  of   |Sii|  ) 


[\\\S   IS   iMll 


hU 


ilittIS 


l"l 


US   mil  r;i\  oiled    vi'v.ion   is  (MrcMliir  in 


il|ir.  11 


iUvMunljMrnt'i'    I'l    whudi    docs    nol    nnMsino   less  (liiin   Ni'von   lli 
luilos.      \\s  (mI-vi^s  h;M  o  l>(MMi    |nMU'li;i(od  luM'o  iiiid  llior«>,  iind  hmd. 


ousand 


w  her- 


r\  iM'  soon, 


h;.s    I 


U'(M1     IIIMH     JllHl     lll!>!'(M 


ri 


10   imoNplorod   iiica   (Ihk-  is 


»)Uil<'  0iH\;il  to  thai  of  »Mir  ouliro  iVij^id  zono.  NaviiV.ilors  on  lIu'  voy- 
;\!V('  lv*nn  tluM^ipo  ol  (Jood  lloju'  lo  Molltouino,  Mini  iVoin  Mrlltoiirii(> 
to  I'apo  Horn.  siaiiU'lv  c\ov  vontnvo.  oxeopl  wliilo  piissiiin'  rapr  Horn, 
to  oo  on  tl\(^  Tolar  sivl(>  oi"  oo'  S.  'Tlio  |\>iir  ol"  icolnM^s  deters  llieiii. 
riii^se  uiii\  be  seen  there  diilliujv  np  toward  llie  etpiidor  in  lari'(«  niiiu- 
InMsaud   hM;;e   masses  all    the   \e;ir  round.      I    hiive  eneounlered   iIumu 


un  se 


It   ;is   hiiMi    ui'  as   tlu 


ijirallel  »>!    o< 


The  liell  o\' 


oeean    llial. 


eiu  uv  K-s   tins  i^u 


th 


4>e   on   the  Polar  side  ol'  oo'  S.,  is  iiev(>r  Tree  iioni 


ie(< 


M.un  <.^(  tliem  ;\\c  miU^s  in  extent  .md  huudr«>ds  ol"  I'eel  ihiek.  Tlu' 
ar(M  on  llu^  Pohu-  side-  ot"  the  liUv-lit'th  pjiralh^l  of  s(Mitli  latilude  eoiu- 
)>V(^luMuls  a  sp.u  e  ol"  17.7SI.(i(U)  siiuari'  miles.  The  uurserv  lor  I  hi' 
herc'J^.  to  till  sui  h  a  tii~ld.  must  W  an  imuuMist'  one:  sueh  a  nnrsei\  eaii- 


Ui 


n  he  on  tlie  si\i   (or  iei^her^s  r(N)uiri>  to  he  tastiMUMl  tirmlv  to  the  sli 


ere 


uu 


til  tl 


ie\  attain  tnil  si.i' 


hex   therel"on>,  in  their  miil(>  w  ;n ,  ate  loiu! 


witli  evideuii^  in  t"a\oi-  ol"  Antaretii'  slu)re-liues  t>r  o-n'at  extiMit.  of  dee|i 
ha\s  w  liere  thev  ma\  he  t'onued.  and  o(  loftv  elil'I's  whenee  llie\  ni.iv 
bo  lauuilud.  i^lV  tlie  (.'ape  o(  (rood  Ihipe  tlu\v  iiavo  bi'ou  iseeii  as  far 
a*  \hc  parallel  iM  oo". 


TIIIO    "TICI{|{/\     INI'MONITA. 


m 


'CH  ill   \\u> 
Sllli:-,     llic 

H'siiIiiii!^ 
A  HUM  iiMii 

I'ls   lll'liMC 

I'lr    lr;irlvs 

lidir.i  ;iU(l 
r\lriil   lo 

lis     UIICX 

il     Miimv, 

ul'    ISlil  ). 
m1i;i|h\  llir 

llidusaiul 
iiinl.  w  luM 
•a  ihcic  IS 
II  ill-.'  voy- 
Mrllmimu! 
'ill»c  llt>rii. 

Ids  llu'iii. 

ll;',('    lilllil- 
li'il    tlnMll 

M'lMii    tli;lt 
iVoiii  ico. 

i'k.    'riu> 

iliuK'  rom- 
•y  I'lM'  llu' 
irsiTV  i'aii- 
(  the  sIkui' 
V,  ail'  li'iu! 
III.  I'i'  iKu'p 
llii'\  may 
t^oou  as  tar 


II 


l*'nr  tliii  IiihI.  two  lititi(ln<i|  yriii'ht  tlxi  Arrlin  onpiiii  Iiiih  Iiim'Ii  a  tlinit/rn 
jxi'  oxplui'iil  inti  :  lull  tin  I'ur  llir  Antiiii'lic,  iiu  <'X|M'<liriiMi  Iiiik  ul.tdtiiplril 
Id  iiiiilvP  liny  ficrHiHiriil  rx|iluiii.(.i(iii  ur  rvni  In  vviiilci   Ilit'H". 

In  ('liii|)l(<r  I.  il.  Iiim  liri<n  hIiuwii  IIiiiI  llir  I'iimI  Arcfir  I'ix  |ilorii.l  ioiiH 
liail  llirir  «»rif/iii  in  ii  cnniiiiririiil  mIi|(m'I  ;  lur  il.  wim  iM-licvcd  lliiil  \>y 
liinlini;  II  |iilHHti|.','n  iii'iiiiihI  IIi)<  iidI'I  IiiM'Ii  filinii'M  <'il  Im'I'  III'  A  iiii'i  ioi  or  nl' 
Asiii,  llic  liclirM  nl'  ||ii<  ninl.  wniild  Im<  ninri-  iciMJily  HcriiiiMl.  A  miilf 
aiiiiin<l  ('ii|ii<  llnrn  Inn  wan  niiinvilinjr  licniimr  nl'  Ihn  HlmiiiH  nl'  llif 
Antiiii'lic  SniM.  ,\<lilil  inniill  v  In  llir  iniiiim>l'r'iiil  nlijcrl,  wiisi  llif  "  liiir 
nil  aniliilinii"  In  itlliiin  nr  ii.|i|iinarli  I1m>  Nmlli  I'nir,  a»  simwii  I'm- 
(•\aiii|ili<  liv  llii>  Itnal.  mill  Hlri|j>;n  r\|MMlilinn  nl'  i'iiiry'n  vnyai'i;  rioiii 
S|iir/lirr}';i'ii  |inlr\varil,  at  llir  iliilr  nl'  wiiii'li,  ii-wanin  were  nircicil  I'nr 
irai'jiiii!';  llir  lii<<lirs|.  Iiit  il  ifdrn,  and  XII),<M)0  In  idicIi  |Im<  I'nii'.  V'-t  In 
lliis  nlijccl  a  Hrii'iililir  inlcn-Hl  Hnnii  Ih-i'iiii  Inalliirli  ilsrll'.  'llir  imilli 
MiaiMirlic  |inlc  nl'  llir  rarlli  and  Mic  iini  I  lirni  pnir  nl"  rnjd  Wiir  In  he 
loiali'd,  I  Iii<  isnt  lirrinal  liticM  In  lie  laid  dnwn,  mid  i  in-  ini|ini'lanl  inti'i'i'r^lM 
(il  I  111'  wlialiii'';  I  radi"  |irniiintrd  ;  all  nl"  wliicli  filijcilM,  in  a  in'rati'i'  <ir  Ichh 
ili':;r(M',  iiii'  iiidrrd  Mlill  invnivrd  in  rx  |»lnia.l.inn  in  tin'  Anlir,,  and  In 
M>iiii>  rxli'iil  in  liir  A,  niarcl  if  alsn. 

lint  I  III' nii;;iniil  |>ni'|inMn  JiihI.  iimni'd  iih  liidnrr  llif  Anlii'  c^iilnrcr 
had,  id"  cniM'si',  iin  |ila(r  in  Aniairlir.  vnya^^inj^,  Inr  nnlliinif  <>\  value, 
(iiiild  III-  rniicrivalilr  in  a  rnilli'  |iassin|;;;  liy  tlicSniilli  I'nir  iVnni  nne 
(i>nlini<iil  In  aiinllirr,  llii>  |H'iiinsnliii'  Irnninal  inns  id'  llir  I'nnlanrnis  Itr- 
lii;.;  Ktinwii  In  lin  rrlaliv'rly  liil'  liinir  distant  IVniii  llir  sniillirni  jmlr 
lliaii  llir  Ai'riir  I'rridiis  riniii  llir  nnillirrii.  I''nr  Anlai'rlir  I'ix  pinrat  inn, 
llici'rl'ni'r,  llir  rarlirsi,  nlijrrl,  imhiIiI  lir  siiii|ily  In  drlrnniiir  what,  lay 
williin  llir  vast,  sparr  lirlwrm  I  lirsr  rniilaiirnlal  trriiiiiiiilinns  and  tlirir 
I'lilr.  Williin  Iliis  vnid  was  llir  Trrni  AiihIi-ii/Ix  /tioif/ii.llfi.,  sh  niai'kr.d 
ii|ion  llir  ina|tM,  nnl.  only  nl"  llir  iniddlr  aj^rs,  lint,  nl"  llinsr  I'ai'  dnwn  willi- 
in I  lir  lines  id"  inndr  III  liistm'y  ;  I'ni'  I'm  in  I  lir  rarlirst,  dale  nf  tlir.  divi^inn 
dl' llir  riirt  II  into  tlir  idd  livr  /.nnrs  or  rlinialiiS  (Hi;\)iu,ili'\  iis  was  sii|)- 
|Misr(l  hy  tlir  iiniiiliahiliiJilr  ('(|iial.nria.l  Ixtlt  ),  IIk;  lieliel'  existed  that, 
liryond  the  Hii|i|)nsed  lijelily-jirali^d  rrninii  nl"  the  (M|H!j,nr,  lay  this  lar;^'e 
niiilinriil  rxtiMidiiin"  in  tlir  I'nir;  and  when  it,  lireainr  knnwn  that  the 
i'i|iiat;»r  was  iiilialiitahlr,  tijo  unknowti,  wiis  shift*!!!  lurtliur  bnuth  ;   atid 


iii^ 


u,,. 


^ . 


lif^ 


4!)2 


AMICIJM'AN    KXPLOIJATIONH    IN    THK    ICK   ZONKS. 


aji^iiin  oil  Van  DiiMiuui's  (>x|)lorii(ion  of  Australia  and  'I'asman's  of  X,,,^ 
Zoalantl.  it  was  aj^aiii  sliil'tiMl  soutli.  It  so  roniainrd  until  ("aplnin  ('(miI 
in  ITTt  (lispollcd  tlu;  illusion  hv  liis  (•ir(uiit  of  tlio  southern  seas  in  l,i,rli 
lalitu<i(>s.  In  liis  own  words,  "lie  put  an  end  to  (ji(>  scarcli  for  , 
soutluM-n  continent  wliieli  had  en_t;rossed  tlu^  attention  of  iniciiiin,. 
nations  i'or  two  centuries,  and  had  been  a  favorite  theme  for  <>•,.,„,, .,,,|, 
ers  of  all  ages."  IK'  attained  the  hit.  of  71°  10'  south  on  the  out-  lnm- 
dr(>(i  and  seventh  meridian,  and  settled  the  form  of  New  /ealaiid,  New 
(^aledonia,  and  other  Australian  lands  and  islands. 

Til"  disa|)|»eaiance  of  the  'IVrra  /ncni/iiitii  ['vowx  the  inajis,  and  I'lmii 
the  theorv  of  th(>  u'eo^ra pliers,  was  not,  iioMever,  ii  displacenicnl  nl'  ii,,. 
l)eli(>f  in  llie  (>\isU<nce  of  lar^'c  land  masses  in  tlu^  soMlhern  i'olar  zoiirs. 
The  theorv  of  the  continent  had  l)ase<l  iiself  chic^lly  on  the  itn intusiiloi, 
that  one  must  exist  then'  to  connterhalance  the  lands  of  the  opiidsilc 
iioiih'Mii  hell,  in  su|tport  of  which  idea  Lieutenant  Maury  had  said  -h 
seems  to  he  a  |diysical  nci'cssity  that  and  should  md  he  antipodal  lo 
land."  Within  an  area,  t licrchu'c,  e(|ual  in  exttMit  to  one-sixth  pari  ^\\ 
the  cut  ire  land  surface  o\'  the  glohc,  it  was  urq'(>(l  that  land  must  exist 
antii'Mlal  oi'  opposite  to  llu>  vast  water  area,  lyintjf  betwei-n  the  circli' 
and  Cape  Horn  and  the  ("ape  of  (Jood  Hope.  iMeteoridoinical  cini- 
siderations,  further  uru'cd  hv  lii(>uteuant  Maury,  wer(>  ehielly  the  liclief 
that  mountain  masses  ther(>  apjtear  to  perhuaii,  in  Vie  chamhcrs  of  ihc 
upper  air.  the  (d1ice  which  the  jet  of  cold  wati>r  dischari^cs  for  ijn- 
I'xhaustiMl  steam  in  \\\c  condenser  of  an  enn'iiie,  Antarctic  nioditains 
and  lolly  ]H'aks  produciiii;'  ;is  condensers  of  excessive  precipitation  ilic 
steady  llow  of  the  winds  oi'  that  ri>gion  towards  tli(>  South  Pole.  To 
determiuc  the  extent  td' suidi  land  masses,  their  (devations,  and  depres- 
sions, and  tlu'  glaciers,  or  ice-li(dds  within  their  indentations  and  ^\\\ 
their  slioi'(>s.  still  remained  (dijinds  of  geographical  investigation  :  and 
to  tlu^sc  (d)jects  were  to  he  added  special  researidics  in  rcdation  to 
botanv  and  zocdoLi'V,  the   llm-a  and   fauna  of  tli(>  southern   latitudes,  and 


other  ri'sear 


dl(>S  1 


)i>ariiig  an  iiitimati>  relation  to  those  in  the  high  lanlli. 


In  th(>  woi'ds  of  the  (\)mmittee  of  the  Hoyal  Society  of  Lon(h)n,  rccdiii- 
memling  the  recent  voyage  td"  the  •'Challenger,"  "In  the  soullieru 
ocean  the  study  of  oiu'an  lemperatiires  is  ex])ected  to  afford  the   most 


1  ii 


i  H?  \ , 


nKIiMNtJSMAUHr.N. 


493 


I's  (if   New 
•tiiiii  ('(M)l< 

'ilS  ill   lii^rli 

ii'cli    ror   a 

iiiii;itiiii,> 

.U'<'»i«;'ra|)li-^ 

('  »>iif  liiiii- 

ilaiid.  New 


t;4'iciil  coii- 
•  the  lu'licf 
X'i'S  of  the 
cs  lor  llic 
iihuiitaiiis 
itation  llic 

Pole.  To 
11(1  (l('iirrs- 
iis  and  olV 
atioii  :  iiihI 
ri'liitioii  to 
iludi's.  and 

linii  iiorlli. 

on,  vi'coin- 

SOUlluM'll 

the   most 


a 


iiiiportniif  roHults,  inid  tliii  observatioiis  of  inctcorologiciil  and  iiiagiiotic 
lilicnoiiKMia  tlu'i'(>  an;  even  y(;t  iiioil'  inipoi'taiit." 

Aiitaiclic  explorations,  llierelore,  for  the  pui  noses  just  named  could 
iiol  !)(•  lost  si;4hl  of,  Imt  have  hcen  proscciittMl  at  times  hy  tlu^  aid  of 
|iriviite  lilicrality  only  and  moi'e  extensively  l)y  national  expeditions. 
Ill  advocacy  of  (Jovernment  aid,  (Ik;  North  /in'fish  /It'rir/r  (1'  17), 
rct'crriiio;  (o  (he  IJt'Solutions  of  the  IJiitish  Assoeiation  whieh  recom- 
iii'iided  the  Naval  ICx|)edition  of  Sir  .Iam(!s  Itoss,  forcihly  says:  — 

"The  iicocssily  of  national  !iitl  hi  proniotiiif.';  .and  ('onii)lt!tin<ij  j^rwiL  piiysic.-il 
tlii'oiics.  'i!is  biH^n  lon;^  JKhnitlcd  hy  rvcry  civilized  iiiition  in  llio  c;i.st3  of  iiHtrononiy, 
('vcii  wimn  no  jmicticiil  or  utilitarian  result  could  he.  reiisoniibly  conteiuphittMl ;  but 
tliJil  n(Hu;ssity  l)ccoineH  (lotibly  lU'ij^ent  in  I'cfurencc  to  those  sciences  vvliieb  !ire  likely 
to  yicl'i  tbe  most  Ix-nelicial  results  botii  to  irivijjj.ation  Jind  eoniinerce.  When  the 
clVi'iisof  private  lil)er:ii.:y  and  individual  talent  ai  •'  inad<'(piate  to  tlio  solution  of 
jrr.'.il  probhMus  in  whi(^h  national  interests  or  national  honor  !ir(!  involv<'d,  it  be- 
coiiii's  the  ])araniount(luly  of  (!very  civilized  State  to  supply  from  its  treasmy  tlio 
sinews  of  lliouj;ht,  and  th.e  duty  also  of  every  true  sovenMf^n  to  hold  out  to  the 
intellectual  "gladiator  tln!  laurels  be  can  bestow.  .  .  .  "Gri'at  as  Jiave  been  tho 
inlillectual  .ac!iievenients  of  the  past,  and  aecel(;rat('d  .as  luis  been  the  projrress  both 
of  terrestrial  and  celestial  physics  in  tli(!  present  century,  yet  the  deeper  myslcries  of 
deal  ion  remain  undii^closed,  .and  ages  of  herculean  toil  must  pass  jiway  before  man 
liMs  executed  ins  cimnnission  as  the  interpreter  of  Nature.  The  Scriptures  fonttoll 
nil  cpocli  when  '  knowledjje  .hall  increase,  and  man  jxo  to  and  fro  uinm  the  earth.' 
The  ul)i(iiiily  of  scMcnco  must,  lher(!fore,  ])rece(hi  the  univ<M-sality  of  hei-  dominion, 
mill  licr  dominion  must  b(!  established  before  her  coiifjiiests  are  secun.'d.  Th»!  last 
(Mieniy  lo  be  siilxhied  is  I<xnoran(!e.  .and  th(!  last  conqueror  Hciasoii.  The  current 
(vele  c;inn(tt  be  closed  till  the  e.art.Ii's  circuit  lias  b(!en  spanned,  her  crypts  laid 
o|)eii.  and  her  sl^ics  t>xi)lored.  The  last  act  of  mental  toil  which  is  to  unfold  the  liist 
iny>ti'ry  of  power,  ;ind  display  in  its  full  <l(;velo])ment  the  };lory  of  tlu!  Most,  Ilij^h, 
will  introduce  anotlier  cycle  ofbeinfj,  in  which  new  combinations  of  m.dter  will  etm- 
stiliile  ii  new  arena  for  nobha-  forms  of  life,  and  higher  orders  of  intelligence,  and 
more  lofty  spheres  of  Labor  and  (injoyment." 

Thi;  history  of  tlio  United  Stales  (ixliihits  in  many  instanees  tho 
sympathy  of  our  ])eoj)l(^  and  of  otii'  legislative  bodies  with  these  ideas. 
National  assistance  for  ex])editions  to  the  Southern  Zone  was  not 
iiuwever  extended  hy  any  government  within  the  jxMiod  of  the  more 
tliiiii  half  eentury  whieh  followed  ('ook's  voyagi! ;  with  tlw;  exception, 
tlu'icfore  of  the  incidental  discovery  of  the  islands  of  I'eter  I.,  lat.  t)8° 
57'.  long.  90"^  40'  W.,  and   of  Alexander  I.  in  about  the  same   latitude, 


{ 


i 
I' 


Itji.ll 


iiH- 


VI  i 


it. 


4SM 


AMKKU'AN    i;xri,01{,VriONN    IN    'mi',    KM",    /,(»NKH. 


lotii:^,   T.'V"   |»y   CaptMin    HclIiiij^sliiiustMi  of    llic    liiisMiaii    Iinpurijii   si 
"  Mirny  "jiimI  "  N'ostoK  "'  in  (lir  yviw   IS'JI,  Aiitinrlic  («x|tl(tr 


lips 


iti 


"II    Was 


tli«>  work  of  piiviih'  slii|is:  :it  (imcs  (liiil  (»!' a  shav  whaler 


It    is   to   tiu'  I'liMJil    of  AiiuM'ii'an   fiiici'iiriHc    (hat  ihv  lirsi  uj'  smli 


oxplorati(Mis,   that    u\'    Captain    Talincr,  awiikoiunl  and  stinuiialivl 
inl(M('s(    in    I  lie    Soutlicrn    Zono,    wliicli    lavort'il    the   or 


•  Ml 


.U^aiii/aiinii 


national  cxpt'iiilitms.  And  lioro.  it  may  Ik'  admitted  willi  llir  nuilM.r  ol 
"'I'lu'  History  of  (lie  American  VVIialc  rislu'ry,"  Mr.  A.  Slarlmck,  tlmt 
"as  pioneers  of  (lie  s(>a,  wlialemiMi  liavi"  Itet-n  (lie  advance  i^iianl  u{ 
eivili/.ation  ;  i-xplorinj;-  expeditions  rollowinij  allt-r  to  i;lean  wlier«'  iliey 
had  reaped  ;  in  the  frozen  seas  of  (lu>  North  and  the  Sonlh,  llicu  Knls 
have  ploniihed  to  tluM'xtretno  limits  of  navigation,  and  Imt  I 


or 


iit'iii 


West 


ern  oceans  wonld  nuich  linii;'er  have  lieen  eomparativelv  ntikndwn 


MnU'lish  whaliMs  wcvc    the   lirst    that    tra(h'd  in  tl 


le  I'euuuis  t 


'(  V 


ail 


Oieman's  Land  and  Australia,  and  aeeordiii'''  ti>  (ho   Loinlmi  OihtrdrJ 


I 


wnrir 


without    them    l"'iu;land  miyid  never  have  founded  Ikm' 


/•/// 


eoloiiu's 


ill'es  o 


is- 


tlurc.   ov   if  shi'   had    ha\»'   maintaini>d    them   ;n    their  early   si 
dan>;-er  and    piivation."      (^Set>    K'eport    hy  I'rol.  Ilaird  of   b'ish  (  tumii 
sion.  ISTo).     Captain    Palmer's  discovery  is  illustrative  of  the  miieral 
sentiment  which  actiedits  whalemen  as  tlu>  pioneers  of  the  sea. 


ivviMi  k's  ;.,\ni>. 

ri;.'  S,)iit>i  l\irifjr  lhrf<'t<>ri/.  vompWvA  bv  Kimil.'iy  of  l.emloii,  ami  I'McnsivcIy 
iist'tl  by  Anicric.-in  .mkI  Ilnsjlisli  \avi>i:ilors.  riitlicr  slratiijely  omits  o\ cm  in  llic 
(Hlilieii  of  ISrr.  all  notice  of  llic  tii^cnvci'v  of  this  l.-iiul  IviiiiT  not  very  tar  Irom  tl!i> 
Aniaivlic  ('irclt>.  while  ihc  /'(rd/.nv  j^ivcs  lli<>  full  |);irtioul.'irs  of  Hiscoc's  lii^covciy  of 
its  soiitlicni  cMciisioii  ;it  a  lal(>r  date.  'I'lic  Ailinir;illy  \cr  ("liarl  ami  tlicir  I' il:ii- 
Sea  ('harts  aNo  omit  ralmcr's  I.aml.  A  rcpnnhictioii  probably  of  the  I'oriiicr  of 
lhcM<  v-harts  in  Su'ilcr's  Atlas  from  ilu'  house  of  Perthes,  (iotha.  has  doni-  jusiico 
to  AnuMi>'.in  weik.  I'lie  discovery  is  r(>l"erred  to  by  an  intcrc-tiaji' note  in  liic  An/Z/j 
Anxrirni)  Hrvirir  \W  IS.'il.  in  an  .article  oi\  the  Whale  Fishery.  The  lurlur  says:  "  \ 
t"c\v  y(\u"s  sinct\  (^IS'.M.  two  years  bct'orc  Uiscoc's  visit,)  two  Ivussian  discovery 
ships  came  in  si>;ht  o(  a  iXioup  of  cold.  ..diospiiablc  islamls  in  the  .\nt;ii-clic  Ocean. 
The  commander  imaj:in>'d  himself  a  discoverer,  .and  doe.btle.'^s  was  jircparcd  with 
drawn  swin'd  antl  with  the  tlaj:'  of  his  sovcrei<::n  tlyini;  ovi  r  his  iuvul,  to  take  jtossos- 
sien  in  the  name  of  the  i'/iir.  At  this  tinu*  he  \>as  bccahmnl  in  a  tlense  I'ol;  ■Iiiilu:e 
of  his  >nr]n'isc.  w  hen  the  fe>;  elt>:ired  aw.ay.  to  si-e  ;i  little  se.alinjj;  sloop  from  Coii- 
nooticul  as  quietly  riding  between  his  ships  as  if  hino;  in  tiu>  wsUors  of  Loni:  isiaud 


I- 


TIIK   MOUTH    l'A<;iKM!    KX  rKlil'I'K  >N. 


IU& 


iiii    h1ii|is 
I  mil    Wiis 

1     tit     Sllfll 
lliltcil    ;ii| 

/.lUion    til 
initlidr  III 
lUck.  Iliat 
jLiiKird    (if 
liri(>  tlit'v 
licir  Ivccls 
•  llinu  llu> 
mil\ii(i\vii. 

IIS  of   \';ili 
(.^hut  rt  <■  rl  ji 

,"!'   iMlldllit'S 

st;i|^'i's  of 
li  ( '(iiimiib- 
!it'  m'lionil 

L';i. 


Soiiiiii.  llo  li'tirrinti  IVoiii  tlio  (*ii|)liiiii  tl<:il  lliii  isluiitlH  w*'nt  iilrniidy  woll  known,  iind 
\\\i\[.  \w  liiul  jii.sl  rctuinnl  from  ttxplnrin^  l.li«)  nImm-i^h  of  a  nnw  liiml  ul  tliti  Soiilli,  ii|i(mi 
wliii'li  tlio  Uii.Msian  ^avo  vtuit  to  an  <<xpi'<'SHi<in  l<ii>  liani  li>  Ixi  r<>|it<ati'<l,  luit 
MilllriiMiMy  Mifj^nilicant.  of  liis  opinion  nr  AintM-ican  mliTpriNo.  Allrr  Ijio  <-i!p- 
i;iin  of  Mio  nlodp  lio  nanxnl  lint  «lis(!(ivi<i-v  '  I'alnn'i'H  Laml,'  in  wliicli  \\w  Ainoiiran 
;H'i|ni<<sri>il,  and  hy  lliin  nanio  il  appt>ai's  li>  ho  ilcsi^niiltd  on  all  llio  rncnlly  piiii- 
li  Ih<<I  l{iiHsian  and  lMii;liMli  fliaits/'  ralnnM-'s  Land  will  Imi  found  on  Sli-ilfirV 
\li;is  sonlli  of  tli<<  Sli(>l,land  IslandH,  in  iilioiil,  Int.  (i.'l  W,  loiij;.  r)7'  .^.'»'  W.  .Ind;;o 
n.ily  in«>lu<l<<s  llio  diHcovcry  in  IiIh  article  on  "  I'olm-  Rt'scan^li,"  in  .lolnison'.-i  Kntiy- 
i'|cipi>dia.  'I'Ih'  I'rcsidrnl.  of  tint  Koyal  (Ico^riipliiral  Soi;ii>|.y  oi  London  nanx's  il,  in 
hi  1  annonnct<ni*<nl.  «>r  lint  awanls  of  llic  Socirly  lor  (Iroj^rapirKtal  discovery,  volcd 
liy  lilt'  Society  t(»  ('aptain  Wilke.s  in  IHlM.  A  visit,  to  it,  had  h(!en  one  elemenl  in  l-lio 
liislrnetionH  f);iven  hy  the  Navy  DepaiSiiii'il.  to  ili(>  I'.xpedilion  under  Wilke-t. 

l-'ollowiiif;  our  t'nlcrprisin^:;  Anieriean,  Weddell  in  IK'j;i  advaneed  three  deKi-ous 
rmllier  than  ( 'ook.  reach in^  lal.  71"  ir)' S.  Itiscoe  in  IHItl  \V.\  diseovi-ri'd  (iraiiaui 
1,,'iiid,  iMiderhy  Land,  iiinl  Kemp  Land,  on  the  ed;j;(<  of  Ihe  (tircle,  his  hrii^  the 
"Tnla"  havin^jj  heen  under  Ihe  in.slriictioiiN  of  its  owners,  Messis.  iOndeihy  of  Lon- 
don, to  in:ik<<  seiirch  for  innv  land.s  within  the  /.on(\  'The  lOn^i^lisii  (JapLain.  iiiseius 
leeeived  Ihtt  ^old  nn'dnl  oriJie  Koyal  (i(<o;>;ciip|iical  Society,  l^ondon. 

The  siil)se<|uent.  tliscovery  of  Italleny  Inlands  and  Sahrina  l^and  by  It.-ilieny  in 
IS.l'.l  closes  these  individual  elVorts,  liriii<^in;^  us  to  the  ('ra  (»f  the,  Nationiil  I'lxpedi- 
lidHs  lelerri'd  to.  viz..  those  of  D'Hrville  I'loni  l''r.ince.  Sir  .liiines  lios.s  IVoiii  Lnj^land, 
;uid  Wilkes  from  Ihe  United  Stiiles.  expeditions  which  foiintl  Mieniselves  in  ready 
liic  s:inie  re<j;ion,s  in  the  Antiirctie  within  the  same  jieriod,  KCtK-lU.  'i'he  ciiii>e  of  the 
Aiiierioan  st|iiadron  only  claims  allention  in  connei^lion  with  the  title  of  this  volume. 


Mcnsivcly 

veil    in   the 

r  troiM  tlu' 

i^i'i'vcry  of 

iheir    r  >l:ir 

'   t'onucr  of 

one  iu>lico 

II  ilic  Sodh 

ir  s;i\s:   "  .\ 

}\    iliscdvory 

I'lir  ()c(';in. 

c]i;irt'il  with 

t;iko  iHis-cs- 

foi:-.  .)uil<:e 
|i  tVoui  C'on- 
Loiiu'  it^iaud 


3 


MKUTKNANT    WlldvKS     ANTAIMTIC    Cltl'lSK    A    I'AIJT    <>K    THIC    I'.    S.    KX- 

l'Loi;iN<i    KXI'KDirioN    UK    |.s;!,S|'j. 

Till'  Aii\<'ricaii  Nafidiiiil  l'lx|»l(»rii(,i(»iis  iiiii(l(>  williin  tlm  Aiitiir(;ti(; 
Circli'  ill  llui  year  ISKI  wci('  a  part  ol"  flidsc^  planned  hy  liiciilcnanl. 
("liarU's  Wilkes,  (lu!  ('omiiiaiidcr  df  llin  U.S.  IOxpI»»iiii<^  I'Apcdilioii, 
1S;!S-|"J.  Tliis  ('\|u'di(i(»ii  was  aiitliori/ed  )»y  Coiitrross  l»y  I  lie  Ad.  (tf 
May  IS,  1S!5(!,  "lor  llu'  |)iiip()S(!  (if  exploring- and  siirvcyiiij^'  in  tlic  oicat 
SoulluMii  Oiioiiii  ill  llic  iniportaiit,  inlnrcsfs  of  our  coinnicicc,  t'iiil)ai'kcd 
ill  tlio  wlialo  lisliiM'ii's  and  ollior  iidvcntnrcs  in  tJiai  ocean,  as  well  iis  to 
tli'leniiine  the  existence  of  a,ll  (loiihiriil  islands  and  shoals,  and  to  dis- 
tiivcr  jiiul  a('C\ira,lely  iix  tlie  ])osition  (d'  flios(^  which  lie;  in  or  near  the 
track  ])ursued  hy  onr  merchant  vessels  in  tliat  (piarter,  and  may  liavf; 
o.srapod  tlie  t)hservation  of  Scieiitilic  Navigatois."     For  these  jmijioses 


I' 

I 


496 


AMEUICAN   EXPLOUATIONS    IX   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


tlie  very  liberal  appropriation  of  -1300,000  was  made  by  the  Congiess  of 
the  year  just  named. 

15y  the  instructions  of  Secretary  Paulding,  dated  August  11,  18:>S 
JJeutenant  Charles  Wilkes  was  advised  that  the  President  had  ai)- 
pointed  him  to  the  connnand  of  a  squadron  organized  for  these  objects, 
consisting  of  the  sloops  of  war  "  Vincennes"  and  "Peacock,"  the  storo- 
ship  "Relief,"  the  brig  "Porpoise"  and  tenders,  "Sea Gull"  and  "Flvimr 
Fish."  The  Secretary  also  indicated  the  course  of  die  cruise,  naniimi- 
the  chief  points  to  be  visited  by  the  expedition  in  the  order  of:  Kio 
.Janeiro,  Cape  Frio,  the  llio  Negro,  and  Terra  del  Fuego,  thence  the 
Southern  Antarctic  to  the  southward  of  Powell's  group  between  it  and 
Sandwich  Land ;  thence  to  the  southward  and  westward  as  far  as  the 
Ne  plus  ultni  of  Cook ;  thence  to  Valparaiso ;  the  Navigators'  group ; 
the  Fiji  Islands ;  thence  by  a  second  attem2)t  to  penetrate  within  the 
Antarctic  region,  south  of  V^in  Diemen's  Land,  and  thence  to  San  Fran- 
cisco via  the  Sandwich  Islands,  from  which  the  return  would  be  to 
Singapore  and  home  by  the  way  of  the  Cape  of  Good  Hope. 


OFFICERS.* 

Tlie  senior  officers  of  the  s(]nadron  under  Wilkes,  were:  Lieutenant 
William  L.  Hudson,  commanding  the  "Peacock,"  Lieutenant-Connnantl- 

*  Officers'  Naval  Record  :  — 
Cliarlcs  AVilkes,  Midshipman,  .Ian.   1,  1818;   Lieutenant,   April  28,  1820;   Commander, 

July  1.1,   184;];  Captain,  Sept.   14,   1855;   Commodore,  July  16,   1SC2;   Rear  Admiral, 

Aug.  (>,  1800;  Died  Fob.  7,  1877. 
W.  L.   Hudson,  Midshipman,  July  10,  1810;  Lieutenant,  April  28,   1820;   Commander, 

Nov.  2,  1842;  Captain,  Sept.  14,  1855;  Died  Oct.  15,  1862. 
A.  K.  Long,  Midshipman,  Jan.  1,  1818;  Lieutenant,  March  3,  1827;  Commander,  Oct.  12, 

1844;  Captain,  Sept.  14,  1855;  Retired,  Oct.  1,  1804;  Died  Oct.  6,  1800. 
S.  R.  Knox,  Midshipman,  April  1,  1828;  Passed  Midshipman,  June  15,  1837;  Lieutenant, 

Sept.  8,  1841;  Ca])tain  on  reserved  list,  April  4,  1807. 
J.  W.  E.  Reid,  Midshipman,  Sept.  26,  1831;  Passed  Midshipman,  June  15,  1837;  LoslaX. 

sea.  May,  1830,  while  commanding  the  "  Sea  Gull." 
T.  T.  Craven,  Midshipman,  May  1.  1822:  Passed  Midshipman,  May  24,  1828;  Lieutenant, 

May  27,  1830;  Connnander,  Dec.  16,  1852;  Captain,  June  7,  1801;  Commodore,  July 

16,  1803;  Rear  Admiral,  Oct.  10,  1800;  Retired  Dec.  30,  1800. 
O.  Carr,  Midshipman,  March  11,  1827;  Passed  Midshipman,  June  10,  1832;  Lieutenant, 

Dec.  8,  1838;  Commander,  Sept.  14,  1855;  Captain,  Retired,  April  4,  1867. 


WILKES     OFFICERS. 


497 


[igress  of 

11,  18:J8, 
had  ii)»- 
[3  objects, 
the  stori!- 
h'Flyhij,' 
;,  luuniu*^ 
•  of:    Ivio 
leiice  the 
;eu  it  and 
far  as  the 
rs'  group ; 
within  the 
8au  Fran- 
ukl  be  to 


jcutenaut 
!oiiimaud- 

['oininamlcr, 
)ar  Adminil, 

Coinmaiulor, 

Kler,  Oct.  12, 

Lieutcnaui, 

1837;  Lost  Hi 

Lieutenant, 
modore,  .Inly 

Lieutenant, 


ants  A.  K.  Long  and  Cadwalhider  Ringgold,  Commandant  Samuel  R. 
Knox  and   Passed  Midshipman   James   W.   E.   lieid,  commanding  re- 

1{.  K.  Johnson,  Midshipman,  Oct.  1,  IS27;  Passed  Midshipman,  June  10,  183:3;  Lieu- 
tenant, Feb.  12,  183i);  Died  Feb.  4,  1855. 

James  Alden,  Midshipman,  April  1, 1828;  Passed  Midshipman,  June  14,  1834:  Lieutenant, 
Feb.  28,  1840;  Commodore,  Sept.  14,  1855;  Captain,  Jan.  2,  1803;  Commodore,  July 
25,  1805;  liear  Admiral,  Jan.  lU,  1871;  Died  Feb.  5,  1877. 

W.  L.  Maury,  Midshipman,  Feb.  2,  1829;  Passed  Midshipman,  July  3,  1835;  Lieutenant, 
Feb.  20,  1841;  Resigned  April  20,  1851. 

S.P.Lee,  Midshipman,  Nov.  22,  1825;  Passed  Midshipman,  June  4,  1831;  Lieutenant, 
Feb.  0,  1837;  Commander,  Sept.  14,  1855;  Captain,  July  10,  1862;  Commodore,  .July 
25,  1800;  Ile.ir  Admiral,  April  22,  1870:  Iletired  Feb.  13,  1873. 

VV.  M.  Walker,  Midsliipman,  Nov.  1,  1827;  Passed  Midshipman,  June  10,  1833;  Lieu- 
tenant, Dee.  8,  1838;  Commander,  Sept.  14,  1855;  Captain,  July  10,  1802;  Died  Nov. 
24,  1803. 

G.  F.  Enunons,  Midshipman,  April  !,  1828;  Passed  A'idshipman,  June  14,  1834;  Lieii- 
tenant,  Feb.  25,  1841;  Commander,  Jan.  28,  1850;  Captain,  Feb.  7,  1833;  Conunodore, 
Sept.  20,  18()S;  Hear  Admiral,  Nov.  25,  1872;  Retired  Aug.  23,  1873. 

().  H.  Perry,  Midshipman,  Feb.  28,  1820;  Passed  Midshipman,  July  3,  1855;  Lieutenant, 
Feb.  23,  1841;  Resigned  July  2:3,  1849. 

K.  F.  Pinkney,  Midshipman,  Dec.  1,  1827;  Passed  Midshipman,  June  10,  1833;  Lieu- 
tenant  Feb.  28,  1838;  Commander,  Sept.  14,  1855;  Resigned  April  23,  18(51. 

A.  L.  Case,  MidshipTnan,  April  1,  1828;  Passed  Midshipman,  June  14,  1834;  Lieutenant, 
P'eb.  25,  1841;  Commander,  Sept.  14,  IS."',  Captain,  Jan.  2,  1803;  Commodore,  Dec.  8, 
1807;  Rear  Admiral,  May  24,  1872;  Retired  Feb.  3,  1875. 

Joseph  A.  ITnderwood,  Midshipman,  Feb.  2,  1829;  Passed  Midshipman,  July;),  1855; 
Killeil  at  Mololo  Islands  by  Fiji  islanders.  July  24.  1840. 

M.  G.  L.  Claiborne,  Midshipm.\u,  Feb.  1,  1827;  Passed  Midshipman,  June  10,  1833; 
Lieutenant,  June  22,  1838;  Resigned  June  1,  1849. 

II.  J.  Hartstene,  Midshipman,  April  1,  1828;  Passed  Midshipman,  .lune  14,  1834;  Lieu- 
tenant, Feb.  23,  1840;  Commander,  Sept.  14,  1855;  Resigned  Jan.  9,  1801. 

J.  B.  Dale,  Midshipman,  Feb.  2,  1824;  Passed  Midshipman,  July  :>,  18;35;  Lieutenant, 
Feb.  25,  1845;  Died  July  24,  1848. 

James  Palmer,  Acting  Surgeon,  Assistant  Surgeon,  March  20,  1834;  Surgeon,  Oct.  27, 
1841;  Medical  Director,  March  3,  1871;  Retired  June  29.  1873;  Died  April  24,  18S;J. 

K.  Gilchrist,  Acting  Surgeon,  Jan.  20,  1832;  Passcd-Assistaut  Surgeon,  Nov.  8,  183(5; 
Surgeon,  Sept.  21,  1840;  Died  Nov.  6,  1869. 

.1.  L.  Fox,  Assistant  Surgeon,  Feb.  9,  1837;  Passed- Assistant  Surgeon,  June  O,  1842, 
Surgeon,  Aug.  10,  1847;  Died  De-?.  17,  1864. 

J.  F.  Sickles,  Assistant  Surgeon,  Feb.  28,  1833;  Surgeon,  Sept.  8,  18.11;  Died  April  18, 
1848. 

('.  F.  15.  Guillon,  Acting  Surgeon,  Feb.  9,  1837:  Passed-Assistant  Surgeon,  June  6,  1842; 
Surgeon,  Aug.  28,  1847;  Retired  Sept.  15,  1854. 

J.  S.  Whittle,  Assistant  Surgeon,  June  20,  1838;  Died  April  5.  1850. 

K.  R.  Waldron,  Purser,  entered  the  service  June  15,  1827;  Died  Oct.  30,  1846. 

\V.  Speiden,  Purser,  entered  the  service  Aug.  30,  1837;  Died  Dec.  1861. 


I 

n 


ifi 


t  ^ 


498 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS    IN  THE   ICE  ZONES. 


Mil 


::iif 


M    '        \ 


apectively  the  other  vessels  which  have  been  named,  and  the  fol- 
lowing Lieutenants,  T.  T.  Craven,  O.  Carr,  R.  E.  Johnson,  J.  Aldcn 
W.  L.  Maury,  S.  P.  Lee,  W.  M.  Walker,  G.  F.  Emmons,  O.  IL  I'oi  i  v, 
K.  F.  Pinkney,  A.  L.  Case,  J.  A.  Underwood,  M.  G.  L.  Claiborne,  II.  .1. 
Hartstene,  and  J.  B.  Dale.  The  late  U.  S.  Surgeon-General  .Jiiincs 
Palmer.  Silas  Holmes,  J.  S.  Whittle,  E.  L.  Gilchrist,  J.  L.  Fox,  .).  1<". 
Sickles,  and  C.  F.  B.  Guillou  were  the  acting  surgeons.  H.  R.  Wahhoii 
was  Purser  —  a  title  now  supplied  in  the  navy  by  that  of  Paymaster, 
The  whole  number  of  officers  who  sailed  with  the  Expedition  was 
eighty-four,  exclusive  of  the  Scientific  Corps  of  twelve  civilians.  This 
corps  was  composed  of  Messrs.  Charles  Pickering,'  J.  Drayton,  J.  I), 
Braekenridge,  J.  D.  Dana,  T.  R.  PeJile,  A.  T.  Agate,  H.  Hale,  J.  G. 
Brown,  J.  W.  Dyer,  W.  Rich,  J.  P.  Couthouy,  and  F.  L.  Davenport, 
the  last  named  as  the  Interpreter.  The  complement  of  the  seamen 
exceeded  five  hundred. 

The  Secretary  instructed  the  Commander  that  the  Corps  of  Scien- 
tific gentlemen  was  placed  under  his  direction  for  the  more  successful 
attainments  of  science  and  knowledge,  for  the  prosecution  of  which  he 
was  to  take  all  occasions  not  incompatible  with  the  primary  objects  of 
the  Expedition.  The  hydrography  and  geography  of  the  various  seas 
and  countries  pointed  out  in  the  -preceding  instructions  and  all  the 
researches  connected  with  them,  as  well  as  with  astronomy,  terrestrial 
magnetism,  and  meteorology,  were  confided  exclusively  to  the  officers  of 
the  navy,  on  whose  zeal  and  talents  the  Department  confidently  relied 
for  such  results  as  woidd  enable  future  navigators  to  pass  over  without 
fear  or  danger  the  track  traversed  by  the  vessels  of  the  Expedition. 

Lieutenant  Wilkes,  who  received  the  offer  of  command,  was  well 
qualified  by  his  previous  astronomical  and  other  professional  ex- 
perience. He  had  established  the  first  fixed  observatory  in  the  United 
States  —  a  small  building  in  the  city  of  Washington,  north  of  the 
Capitol.  The  lamented  Gilliss,  succeeding  him  in  charge  of  this,  made 
those  continuous  and  valued  observations,  chiefly  for  the  use  of  Wilkes' 
squadron  on  its  return,  which  are  contained  in  the  two  volumes  pub- 
lished in  1846  by  the  Senate ;  observations  which  led  to  the  establish- 
ment of  the  present  U.  S.  Naval  Observatory. 


iS  of  Scicn- 
1  successful 
f  which  he 
r  objects  of 
arious  seas 
ntl  all  the 
,  terrestrial 
officers  of 
ndy  relied 
er  without 
dition. 
,  was  well 
sional   ex- 
the  United 
rth  of  the 
this,  made 
of  Wilkes' 
umes  pul> 
estahlisii- 


m 


LIEUTENANT   HUDSON  S   RANK. 


499 


The  organization  of  tlie  squadron  seems  to  have  been  different  from 
that  which  would  be  made  at  the  present  day  ;  for  under  the  old  r6<jime 
of  the  Navy  Department,  it  was  under  the  charge  of  the  Board  of  Navy 
Commissioners  of  that  date,  who  selected  the  ships  previous  to,  and, 
therefore,  without  the  advice  of  a  commander  who  was  to  be  at  the 
head  of  so  important  an  expedition ;  in  consequence  also  of  the  tem- 
porary sickness  of  Secretary  Dickerson,  the  preliminary  orders  emanated 
tVom  the  Secretary  of  War,  the  Hon.  Joel  R.  Poinsett.  At  the  time  of 
sailing,  the  "  Relief  "  was  the  only  one  of  the  vessels  belonging  to  the 
number  of  those  originally  selected.  It  must  be  remembered  also  in  any 
judgment  of  +he  labors  of  the  expedition,  that  it  contained  no  ship  of 
steam  power,  or  in  any  way  fitted  out  with  the  modern  apT)liance8 
indispensable  for  conflict  with  the  ice-fields  of  the  Antarctic.  The 
"  Vincennes  "  was  a  sloop  of  seven  hundred  and  eighty  tons,  originally 
single-decked  and  with  but  a  light  deck  now  added ;  the  "  Peacock  " 
was  of  six  hundred  and  fifty  tons  only ;  the  "  Porpoise  "  a  gun  brig  of 
two  hundred  and  thirty  only;  the  tenders  were  New  York  pilot  boats; 
and  the  "  Relief,"  a  store  ship  of  such  slow  rate  of  sailing  as  made  her 
ill  adapted  for  the  cruise.  The  "  Peacock,"  before  sailing,  was  found 
to  have  her  upper  works  worn  and  much  decayed  —  seriously  develop- 
ing this  on  the  cruise. 

In  another  distinct  feature  the  expedition  bore  a  peculiar  character, 
by  the  acceptance  on  the  part  of  Lieutenant  Hudson  of  the  appoint- 
ment as  second  in  command,  his  naval  rank  being  above  that  of  Lieu- 
tenant Wilkes.  This  acceptance  was  the  result  of  a  very  complimentary 
letter  received  by  Lieutenant  Hudson  from  Mr.  Poinsett,  Acting  Sec- 
retary of  the  Navy,  and  the  publication  therewith  of  the  Navy  General 
Order  of  June  22,  1838.  which  recited  that  "the  armament  of  the 
Exploring  Expedition,  be'ng  adapted  merely  for  its  necessary  defence 
wliile  engaged  in  the  examination  and  survc}'  of  the  Southern  Ocear, 
against  any  attempt  to  disturb  its  operations  by  the  savage  and  warlike 
inliabitants  of  those  islands,  and  the  objects  which  it  is  destined  to  pro- 
mote being  altogether  scientific  and  useful,  intended  for  the  benefit 
equally  of  the  United  States  and  of  all  commercial  nations  of  the 
world,  it  is  considered  to  be  entirely  divested  of  all  military  character; 


1! 


i 


!r 


* 


\n.: 


l!l!    ' 


I!'  I  'I 


m 


n 


i 


i  I 


ii  I   us   i 


500 


AMKIJM'AN    KXI'LOIJATIONS    IN    TIIK    ICK    /.ONIOH. 


ovrii  ill  llic!  event  (>r  (lu^  iMnmlrv  Itciii^  involved  in  a  war,  lid'oi,.  ii,,, 
relnrn  of  the  s(|na(lron,  i(s  path  npon  the  ocean  will  he  peaed'nl,  ;|,,|| 
its  i)nrsnils  respected  hy  all  Itelli^'erenls.  The  l'resi(h>nl  has.  ilni,.. 
lore,  thon^dit  proper,  in  assi^ninj;-  olliceis  to  the  connuand  ol  ihis 
K(|nadron,  to  depart  iVoni  the  nsnal  enstoni  of  selcetinj;  Ihem  I'nun  ih,. 
HCMiior  ranks  of  the  navy  and  aceoidini^  to  tlieii-  respective  j^rades  in  iIi,. 
seivice  ;  and  has  appointed  Lieutenant  (Miailes  Wilkes,  (irst  ollici  r.  i,> 
command  the  I^xplorini;  FiXpedition,  and  Lieutenant  William  L.  Hud- 
son to  connuand  the  ship  »  Teaooek,' an<l  to  be  second  olliccr  ol'  .siid 
S(|nadron,  and  take  connuand  thoroot,  in  (he  event  of  the  death  it{'  tji,. 
lirst  olVicor,  oi-  his  di  ihility,  from  accident  or  sickness,  io  conduct  I  he 
operations  «)f  the  expedition." 

'I'he  S(|nadr(ni  ^ot  under  way  iVom  Ncu'folk,  Va.,  on  Saturdav.  the 
ISth  ol"  An<;ust,  1S;1S,  and  on  the  -^th  the  Coniinander  laid  his  coiusi' 
lor  Rio  via  the  island  of  Madeira,  reachinj^  Fnnchal,  Septi'udtei-  !(!.  tlic 
Tape  \'erde  Islands,  Octoher  (I,  and  the  harbor  of  J{io  the  l'-'m!  of 
N()veud)er.  Fi'ouj  tlu'  last-uauu'd  port  the  course  laid  down  in  llu' 
instructions  of  the  Secretary  was  again  taken  u[». 

TJtK    ANTAIJCTK'    (MU'ISE. 

The  S(iuadr(Mi,  leaving  liio  de  .Faiieiro,  .January  <>,  stood  to  the  sdutli- 

ward  for  the  Hio  Negro,  made  there  the  investigations  referred  to  in  its 

instructions,  and  on  the  -d  of  February,  sailed  for  C^iipe  Horn,  jiassing 

over  the  localities  ol'  those  shoals  whidi  had  been  said  to  exist   in  its 

(rack    and    through   the   Straits   of  I^o    Maire.     From   thence,  passing 

around  d\\w  Ht)ru.  Wilkes  anchored  in  Oiange  Harbor.     lie  then  sent 

the  "I'eacock'"  and  "  Flying  Fish"  toward  the  Nc  2>lt<>^  ultra  of  Cook, 

and  took  the  "  PcM-poise  **  and  "  Sea  (lull '' to  accomplish  that   part  of 

his  instructions  which    ro(iuired  exploration  between   PowelTs   grouji 

and  Pahner's  Land.     He  says:  — 

"  Wo  all  l(>ft  ()ran«;o  Harbor  on  the  2  till  Fobniarj'.  I  had  littlo  iilca  of  ellVotiiij!; 
anj'thini;  at  this  lato  season.  Tho  only  Uiinfj  that  appoarod  possible  was  the  siirlit- 
inix  of  Palmer's  I^and,  ami  getting  its  trond  to  tho  sonthward  and  castwanl.  I 
jndffod  the  lateness  of  the  season  might  be  favorable  for  this  object,  from  the  sum- 
mer's ice  having  drifted  oil';  th<!  trend  of  the  land  to  the  sonth-sonthe.ast  was  seeu 


\ 


HYDNEY,    NFAV     'OlTTII    WAMW. 


rm 


hi'Wnv  tilt" 
('(•rill,  and 
Ills,    llirrr- 
1(1    ol    this 
u  iVdiii  Ihc 
idcs  ill  li'c 
I  (tlVu'cr.  li> 
ni  li.  IIikI- 
ctT  of  said 
I'iltll  of  tlic 
'(MkIucI  Uic 

iturdiiy,  llic 
liis  ('(iiirsc 
i\luM'  it),  the 
the  l!:ld  («r 
,o\vii    ill   Uic 


(>  (lie  snlltll- 
ved  to  ill  its 
oni,  piissitiij; 
exist   ill  its 
|n('i',  piissiiiiij 
Ic  tluMi  scut. 
/•(/  of  Cook, 
hut   part  (if 
,'oirs   o-n)U]i 

lea  of  cfiVctinj!: 
Ivivs  the  siiilil- 
oastward.  I 
from  lilt!  sum- 
Last  was  soeu 


(.>r  about  tliirty  luilos,  ami  several  small,  roc  slels  were  foiiiid  ofT  its  caHtorn  cape, 
wliicli  I  iiaiiMMi  (!a|)()  Hope.  It  is  iii;;li,  and,  like  all  tlu;  land  in  hi;;li  latitudes,  uov- 
i>r('(l  with  snow  and  ico.  The  South  Sh(!tlands  wan;  sighti-d  and  points  veriti(!d  as 
will  as  they  could  he  with  th(!  weatiier  we  had.  |)iirin<;  this  time  of  thirty-six  days, 
wi'  had  scarcely  a  sin<j;l()  day  to  dry  clothes,  and  the  nujn  sulVcred  much  from  the  con- 
tinued dam|)nesH  lliey  were  exposed  to.  We  acipiinMl  all  that  could  ho  expected  at 
till'  late  sea.son  of  the  year,  namely  .sonio  cxpcrien(!u  amon<;  tlu!  ice." 

'PIm!  "  Pciicock  "  luid  "  l*'lyi>ip  Fisli,"  wliiidi  had  (diiclly  for  llicir 
(ilijcct  to  loiini  whether  the  liiu;  <d'  ley  harrier  hud  iiMirciJised  to  the 
northward  siiMUi  (hi;  (line  of  (look,  mot  with  V(My  hoiHteroiis  w(!a(hei'; 
ilic  second  of  these  vess«ds  i-etiehed  within  sixty  niih's  of  the  Nr  jthix 
iiUni  hefore  she  fell  in  with  the  (irni  harrier;  after  incnrrinj^  nuieh 
lia/.ard,  both  ships  retuinod  north.  After  further  surveys,  j)iirti(!uliii'ly 
;i(  the  Saiidwi(di  Islands,  where, iit  Point  Vimius,  a  tid(!-|)illiir  was  pliinted, 
Wilkes  siiihMJ  for  Sydney,  New  South  Wiiles.  From  this  point  liic! 
second  and  most  importiint  jiart  of  the  cruise  wiis  mudo  hy  the  "Vin- 
cciines,"  the  "■  l'»>atu>ek,"  and  the  "  INu'poisi! "  of  the  S(|na(lion,  the 
tender,  '"Sea,  (J nil,"  liavini^  hcicn  ))reviously  lost  in  a  ^ah;  off  the  coast 
(if  Chili,  iuid  the  '"•  V\y\u\f  Fish"  hoin^  unahh;  to  proceed  further  thiin 
the  first  r(Mid(!7,vous  ai>pointed,  MacQuaric;  Island,  lat.  54"  44'  S.,  lon^. 
l.V.r  \\V  K. 

liieuttMiant  Wilkes  left  the  hos])ltahle  harhor  of  Sydney,  New  South 
Wales,  December  'Jtl,  IH^V.),  with  fa\drable  wciather  and  winds  wlii(di 
ciiaiiled  him  to  crowd  sail  on  tlu^  ships,  to  maintiiin  their  line  abreast, 
;iii(l  to  make  frenuent  inteniomminiicationa.  The  weatluM'  ('ontinuiiio' 
I'liir  until  the  (dose  of  the  month,  oave  Jiim  the  fullest  o|)|iortunity  foi' 
tittinuj  up  each  vessel  for  the  l(!e  rej^ions.  All  o|)enings  were  calk(!d, 
iiiid  tli('  seams  covered  with  tarre«l  canvas,  over  whicli  strips  of  she(>t 
lead  wer(^  nailed.  (Casings  built  around  the  hatches  were  dticmed  siif- 
tieicnt  to  preserve  the  temperature  within  at  50°,  which  the  ('ommandcr 
lielicved  best  adajjted  to  their  circumstances,  and  which  would  prevent 
till'  injurious  eiVects  otherwise  nsceived  by  those  who  would  j)ass  sud- 
denly from  beh)W  to  the  deck  ;  he  thought  it  more  important  to  keep 
the  air  dry  than  warm. 

.hmuary  1,  1840,  was  a  day  usually  termed,  both  on  sea  and  shore,  a 
weat  her  breeder ;  by  midnight  the  weather  became  misty  ;  the  tender, 


fi^2 


II 


l(  -' 


m\-. 


AMKIIICAN    KXl'LOKATIONS    IN   TIIK    ICE   ZONI.:.c;. 


"FlyiiifT  Fish,"  was  lost  si;j;lit  of  not  to  bo  npiin  seen  until  the  S(|na(ln.'i 
retiiniL'd  to  Sydney.  'I'lic  "  IViicot'k  "  also  was  separated  on  tju.  ;;,i 
On  the  Alh  the  "  Vinceniies "  and  "Porpoise"  were  in  hit.  AS'  30  S 
and  on  the  Hth  in  hit.  .V)"  :W  S.,  on  the  9th  in  hit.  .'u"  liV  S.,  h)njr.  li]^' 
30'  K.  This  hist-nanied  jiosition  was  near  the  site  of  Hnicrahl  Isl..; 
neither  th(!  ishiiid  nor  any  indieations  of  hind,  however,  hein<;  seen.  ih,. 
ConmuiiKh'r  inferred  that  the  ishmd  (h)es  nctt  exist  in  the  h)(;ility 
where  it  is  hiid  (h)wn  on  the  eliarts. 


lev:    ISLANDS    AND    IlKIUiS. 

lee  ishmds  and  her<;s  now  became  so  nuineroiis  as  to  compel  the 
ships  occasionally  to  ehanjjje  their  conrse.  TIk;  hern-s  showed  wiiliin 
them  larfTo  cavities  worn  by  the  sea  in  their  i)erj)endieiilar  sich-s,  ihc 
])laiie  surfaces  of  some  beinq;  inclined  to  the  horizon.  As  the  nuiulicr 
increased  the  sea  became  smoother  and  then?  was  no  apparent  nidtidii, 
but  between  8  and  0  p.m.  of  the  11th,  the  ship  passed  a  h»w  puint  of 
ice  into  u  laroje  bay,  and  within  an  hour  afterward  reached  its  exiicine 
limits,  n  com))act  barrier  of  ice  enchxsinn"  larpfe  berj>'s.  The  |»(isiiinii 
was  Lit.  »!4°  11'  S.,  lonir.  104°  30'  E.,  the  variation  22°  Fast.  The  har- 
ometer  stood  at  29.20  inches;  tlie  temi)eratnre  of  the  air  3:)',  of  ilic 
water  32°.  A  thick  fog  set  in,  shuttiufT'  out  the  view  beyond  a  ship's 
length.  But  on  the  10th  the  "Vincennes"  made  frequent  tacks  to 
gain  as  much  southing  as  i)ossible,  the  report  from  the  look-out  at  sun- 
set having  given  promise  of  a  new  opening. 

"The  sliip,"  .s.ays  Liouteniint  Wilkes,  "had  rapid  way  on  her  and  was  much 
toss(>d  aljoiit,  -wlien  in  an  instant  all  was  perfectly  still  and  quiet;  the  transition  w.is 
so  sudden  th;\t  many  were  awakened  by  it  from  sound  sleep,  and  all  well  knew  from 
the  short  experience  we  had  had,  that  the  cessation  of  the  sound  and  motion  usiuil  ;ii 
sea,  was  a  proof  that  we  had  run  within  a  line  of  ice,  —  an  occurrence  from  wliicli 
the  feeling  of  great  danger  is  inseparable.  The  watch  was  called  by  liie  oHlocr  u\' 
the  d(!ck,  to  be  in  readiness  to  execute  such  orders  as  might  be  necessary  for  the 
safety  of  the  ship.  Many  of  those  from  below  were  seen  hurrying  up  the  hatches, 
and  those  on  deck  straining  their  eyes  to  discover  the  barrier  in  time  to  avoid  acci- 
dent. The  ship  still  moving  rapidly  along,  some  faint  hope  remained  that  tlic  l)iiy 
miofht  prove  a  deep  one,  and  enable  me  to  satisfy  my  sanguine  hopes  and  l)elit'f 
relative  to  the  land. 


I'lm  'Ui 


iviACQUAlUK    ISLAND. 


503 


"Tlit»  f«)«'ling  Is  iiwful,  and  tliu  uncerUinty  most  trying,  thus  to  onter  within  tho 
ley  hiirrior  blindfoUltul,  as  It  wore,  by  an  injpt'iuitrahlu  fog,  and  th»!  thou;;liL  con- 
sluntly  nHMUTing  that  both  whip  tmd  crew  wcro  in  iniiuincnt  dang(;r;  y<'t  1  \\a.s  satis- 
lii  il  tliat  nothing  coul»l  l>v,  gained  but  iiy  piu'suiii;,'  tills  coursiv  On  we  k«'pt,  until  it 
was  rcportud  to  mo,  by  attontivi;  listttncrs,  that  they  lu-ard  tins  low  an<l  distant  rust- 
ling of  tho  ico;  sudilonly  a  dozen  voices  proclaimed  the  barriei"  to  be  in  sight  just 
uliead,  Tho  ship,  which  a  moment  before!  so(Mned  as  if  unpeopled,  from  tho  stillness 
of  all  on  board,  was  Instantly  alivo  with  tho  bustle  of  performing  tho  ovolutions 
necessary  to  bring  her  to  tho  wind,  which  was  unfavorable  to  a  return  on  tint  same 
truck  by  which  we  had  t'ntered.  After  a  (piarttu*  of  an  lioiu',  tho  ice  was  again  made 
iiiicad,  and  tho  full  danger  of  our  situation  nfalized.  Tlu!  ship  was  certainly 
L'liibayed  ;  and  although  the  extent  of  st;a  room  to  which  we  were  limit«!d,  was 
rciiderod  invisible  by  the  dark  and  murky  woatlun*,  yiit  that  we  wen?  closely  cireum- 
scriljod  was  ovidont  from  having  made  the  ico  so  soon  on  (Mther  tack,  and  from  tho 
:iiidii)lo  rustling  around  us.  It  recpiired  several  hours  to  (!xtrl(!at»!  thts  shii)  from  this 
l)ay. 

"  Few  aro  able  to  ostimato  tho  feelings  that  such  an  occasion  oausos  to  a  Com- 
mander, who  has  tho  responsibility  of  tho  safety  of  ship  and  ennv  opc'rating  as  a 
heavy  weight  upon  his  heart,  and  producing  a  fooling  as  if  cm  the  verge  of  some 
ovci-wholming  calamity.  All  tends  to  satisfy  him  that  nothing  could  guide  him  in 
safety  through,  or  shield  from  destructi(m  those  who  have  been  entrusted  to  his 
charge,  but  tho  hands  of  an  ali-wiso  Providence." 


Lnd  was  mueli 
Itransilion  was 
rell  knew  fmni 
liotion  usual  al 
be  from  wliicli 
the  oll'iccr  of 
[essary  for  tlio 
|p  tho  hatches, 
to  avoid  acci- 
ll  that  the  bay 
Lcs  and  belief 


Oil  the  day  last  named  the  three  vessels  were  in  long.  157°  46'  E., 
agtiin  within  a  short  distance  of  each  other.  Captain  Ilndscn,  of  the 
"Peacock,"  after  his  se[)avati()n  had  fortunately  made  MacQiiarie  Island 
on  the  10th,  where  he  put  iii)  tlu>  pointed  signal,  made  experiments, 
and  collected  s))ecimens.  Passed  Midshipiuan  Eld  ft)und  tho  sides  of 
tlu;  rugged  hills  literally  covered  with  myriads  of  birds.  Passing  a 
(Uh'p  iissure  in  the  rocks  he  soon  heard  such  a  din  of  S(][ucaking,  squall- 
ing, and  gabbling,  that  it  was  impossible  to  hear  one's  self  speak,  and 
found  his  presence  so  dis[)leasing  that  they  snapped  at  him,  shaking  and 
pinching  his  flesh  so  violently  as  to  make  him  staiul  upon  the  defensive. 
Collecting  a  ntimber  of  birds  and  a  few  jienguin  eggs  about  the  size  of 
a  cfoose  egg,  he  was  further  surprised  by  a  visit  of  two  albatrosses, 
will)  deliberately  flew  away  with  two  of  the  eggs  in  their  beaks  in  spite 
of  all  his  efforts  to  prevent  them.  He  says,  "  These  penguins  are  the 
Eudyptes  clnysocoma ;  they  are  from  sixteen  to  twenty  inches  in 
height,  with  white  breast  and  nearly  black  back,  the  rest  being  of  a 
dark  olive  color,  with  the  exception  of  the  head,  which  is  adorned  on 


(* 


11 


11 


i 


504 


AMEUICAN   EXPLORATIONS    IN    THIO    lOE   ZONES. 


mm: 


n.'. ! 


M:M 


each  side  witli  four  or  five  yellow  feathers,  three  or  four  inches  lonfr 
looking  like  gracctal  plumes.  The  birds  stand  erect  in  rows,  wiijcli 
gives  them  the  apj)earance  of  Liliputian  soldiers.  The  sight  was  novel 
and  beautiful,  and  had  it  not  been  for  the  gabble,  —  enough  to  (Icurcn 
me,  —  I  could  have  stayed,  much  longer."  At  a  suDsequent  lauding'  on 
the  ccast  jNIr.  I'^ld  succeeded  in  taking  a  king  penguin  of  enormous  si/c, 
viz.;  from  tip  of  tail  to  the  bill,  forty-live  inches ;  across  the  llippcis, 
thirty-seven  inches;  and  the  circumference  of  the  body,  thirty-tlnc(> 
inches.  lie  was  taken  after  a  truly  sailor-like  fashion,  by  knockiiiiT 
hhn  down.     The  bird  remained  (juite  unmoved  on  their  approach,  or 

rather  showed  a  dis[)ositioii  to 
come  forward  to  greet  them.  A 
blow  with  the  boat  hook,  how- 
ever, stuiuied  him.  and  \)v{\n\\ 
his  recovery  he  was  well  soeiirod. 
He  showed,  on  coming  to  him- 
self, much  resentment  at  (he 
treatment  he  had  received,  not 
only  by  fighting,  but  by  an  iiioi- 
dinate  noise.  lie  was  in  due  thiie 
preserved  as  a  specimen  to  grace 
the  collection  at  Washington,  in 
his  craw  were  found  thirty-two 
pebbles,  fvom  the  size  of  a  p(;i  to 
that  of  a  hazelnut.  The  quartermaster  of  the  *'  Peacock "  secured  n 
large  species  of  penguin  and  some  green  paroquets  having  a  large  red 
spot  on  the  head,  a  purple  spot  at  the  root  of  the  bill  .md  a  straight 
beak.* 

*  Sir  C.  Wyville  Thomson,  chief  of  tho  scientific  staff  of  II.  M.  S.  ••  Challenger."  says 
of  the  Tenguins  and  their  retreats:  "The  well-known  tussock-grass  of  the  Falkiaiuls 
forms  a  dense  jungle.  Tlie  root-olumps  or  "tussocks'  are  two  or  three  feet  in  widtli  mul 
about  a  foot  high,  and  the  spaces  hefwccn  tlicm  one  to  two  feet  wide.  The  tuft  of  thick 
grass  stems, —  seven  or  eight  feet  in  hciglit,  —  rises  strong  and  straight  for  a  yard  or  so, 
and  then  the  culms  separate  from  one  another  and  mingle  with  those  of  the  neighlioiiiis 
tussocks.  This  makes  a  brush  very  difficult  to  make  one's  way  through,  for  the  heads  of 
grass  are  closely  entangled  together  on  a  level  with  the  face  and  chest.  In  this  scrub  oiio 
of  the  crested  penguins,  probably  Eadyptes  chrysocoma,  called  by  the  sealers,  in  conmioii 


PENGUIN. 


I:':E 


THK    PENC.UIN    AND   THK    AMtATUOSS. 


O05 


lies  loufT, 
ws,  wliicli 
was  nov(-l 
to  (U'iitVn 
aiuliug'  nil 
nious  si/.c. 
le  HiiijuMs, 
hii'ty-lliviH! 

kii()i;kin<jj 
)proach,  or 
)ositiou   to 
t  them.     A 
hook,  liow- 
aiul   hel'ore 
ell  securoil. 
n<v  to   him- 
cut    at    tla; 
iceived,  not 

by  an  inov- 

iu  clue  time 
len  to  oTiiee 
ington.    Ill 
thirty-two 
of  a  pea  to 
secured  a 
a  large  red 

d  a  straight 


lallensror,"  says 
the  Fiilkliuuls 
t  in  wiiUli  iuiil 
10  tuft  of  tliii'k 
)!•  a  yai'il  (ir  so, 
lio  iiciglil't'i'iii.i^' 
r  the  heads  of 
this  scnilioiu) 
er.s,  in  common 


THK    NOKTIJ    rACIKIC    ALBATKOSS. 

Tlie  species  of  this  remarkable  bird  named  l\v  Audubon  J)iomt'Uea 
Ait/i-lpcif,  the  black-footed  albatioss,  is  spoken  of  by  Mr.  E.  W.  Nelson, 
Naturalist  of  the  l'.  S.  Revenue  Steanu'r  "  Corwin,""  as  follows:  — 

"The  'gony,'  as  this  bird  is  called  on  the  North  Pacific,  is  an  abun- 

w  it h  otlier  species  of  tlie  genus  Kiuli/ittcs,  the  '  rock-liopper.'  has  established  a  rookery. 
From  a  great  distance,  even  so  far  as  tlie  hut  or  the  ship,  one  could  hc»i'  an  incessant 
noise  like  the  barking  of  a  myriad  of  dogs  in  all  i>ossible  keys,  and  as  we  came  ueur  the 
place,  bands  of  penguins  were  seen  constantly  going  and  returning  between  the;  rookery 
and  the  sea.  All  at  once,  out  at  sea,  one  himdred  yards  or  so  from  the  shore,  the  water  is 
sC'Mi  in  motion,  a  da'"k  red  beak  and  sometimes  a  pair  of  eyes  appearing  now  and  then  for 
a  moinent  above  the  surtace.  The  moving  water  approaches  the  shore  in  a  wedge  shape, 
and  with  great  rapidity.  A  baml  of  perhaps  from  three  to  four  hundred  penguins  scram- 
IjIc  out  upon  the  stones,  at  once  exchanging  the  vigorous  and  graceful  moveTuents  and 
attitudes  for  which  they  are  so  remarkable  while  in  tlie  water,  for  helpless  and  ungainly 
ones,  tumbling  over  the  stones,  and  api)arently  with  difficulty  assuming  their  normal 
position,  upright  on  their  feet  —  which  are  set  far  back  —  and  with  their  fin-like  wings 
lianging  in  a  useless  kind  of  way  at  their  sides.  When  they  have  got  fairly  out  of  the 
water,  beyond  the  reach  of  the  surf,  they  stand  together  for  a  few  minutes  drying  and 
(h-<nstni/  themselves  and  talking  loudly,  apparently  congratulating  themselves  on  their 
safe  landing,  and  then  they  seramhle  in  a  body  over  the  stony  beach,  —  many  falling  and 
ju(  king  themselves  up  again  with  the  help  of  their  flappers  on  the  way,  and  make  straight 
for  one  particular  gangway  into  the  scrub,  along  which  tliey  waddle  in  regular  order  up 
to  the  rookery.  In  the  meantime  a  party  of  abo,  t  equal  number  appear  from  the  rookery 
at  the  end  of  another  of  the  paths.  When  they  get  out  of  the  grass  on  to  the  beach 
they  all  stop  and  talk  and  look  about  them,  sometimes  for  three  or  four  minutes.  They 
then  with  one  consent  scuttle  down  over  tht  stones  into  the  water,  and  long  lines  of 
rl])ple  radiating  rapidly  from  their  place  of  departure  are  the  only  indications  that  the 
i»inls  are  speeding  out  to  sea.  The  tussock-brake,  which  in  Inaccessible  Island  is 
perhaps  four  or  five  acres  in  extent,  was  alive  with  penguins  breeding.  The  nests  are 
built  of  the  stems  and  leaves  of  the  spttrtinn,  in  the  spaces  between  the  tussocks.  They 
arc  two  or  three  inches  high,  with  a  slight  depression  for  the  eggs,  and  about  a  foot  in 
diameter.  The  gangways  between  the  tussocks,  along  which  the  penguins  are  constantly 
passing,  are  wet  and  slushy,  and  the  tangled  grass,  the  strong  aminoniacal  smell,  and  the 
dcalVning  noise,  continually  penetrated  l)y  loud  separate  sounds  which  have  a  startling 
resemblance  to  the  human  voice,  make  a  walk  through  the  rookery  neither  easy  nor 
pleasant. 

"The  penguin  is  thickly  covered  with  the  closest  felting  of  down  and  feathers  except 
a  longitudinal  band,  which  in  the  female,  extends  along  the  middle  line  of  the  lower  part 
of  the  abdomen,  and  which  at  all  events  in  the  breeding  season,  is  without  feathers.  The 
bird  seats  herself  almost  upright  upon  her  eggs,  supported  by  the  feet  and  the  stiff  feathers 
of  the  tail,  the  feathers  of  the  abdomen  drawn  apart  and  the  naked  band  directly  applied 
to  tlie  eggs,  doubtless  with  the  object  of  bringing  them  into  immediate  contact  with  the 
source  of  warmth.     The  female  and  the  male  sit  by  turns;   but  thfi  featherless  space,  if 


I 

lit 


li 


r>(M 


AMKUICAN    KXI'LOUATIONS    IN    TIIK    ICK    ZONKS. 


mm:: 


f''lM 


r     f 


I     i 


n 


(laiil  bird  over  (liis  entire  streleli  ol'  (lie  (»eeiui.  It  lakes  eoinpiuiv  wiih 
a  vessel  on  its  U'a  vini;^  San  l^'ranoisi'o,  and  follows  it  to  the  neii^lilxn  h,,,,,! 

jut'sonl,  is  iiol  iiciuly  s«>  iiiiirkcd  in  tlu>  mule.  Wiicii  tlioy  shift,  sillers  llicy  sidle  up  |.],,^,, 
toutMluT,  :mtl  IIk'  cliimuc  is  niatlc  so  riii>iilly  lliiil  llio  cj^tjs  luv  sciirccly  nncovcicd  loi-  i 
iiidiiu'iii.  'I'lic  yoimj;,  wliicli  aif  liiitclu'il  in  iiboiit  six  woeks,  aro  cnrioiis-liHjkiii"  lim,. 
Iliin^s  cDVcrcil  with  liiack  down. 

*' 'I'liiTc  sconis  lo  hv  lilllo  donl)!  Iliat,  in'njjnins  jM-oitcrly  IjcIoiij;  to  iho  sea,  wliicii  ii,,,y 
iidialijl  williin  niodciali' distances  of  the  sliorc.  and  tlicy  only  conic  lo  the  land  to  In,. id 
and  ni'tnll.  and  for  the  yonnu  t<>  ilcvch)i>  snilicicntly  lo  heconie  inih'iicndent.  I'.iii  ;i||  ihis 
lakes  so  join;  that  tlic  liirds  arc  piiu  tically  liic  .urcalcr  jiart.  of  tln-ir  time  iilioni  llie  >liiM('. 
W'c  have  seen  no  I'cason  as  yet  to  (|ncstion  tiw  old  notion  that  llicir  presence  is  an  iiiilica- 
tion  that  land  is  ih)I  very  far  olT. 

■■  /•J((////i/iN  ('/irijsoi-i'iiKi  is  the  only  species  fonnd  in  tht>  Tristan  d'Acnnha  ^imiii. 
The  males  and  fcinales  are  of  ecpiiil  size,  hnt  tin' males  may  lie  readily  distinmiislir,)  hy 
their  slomcr  beaks,  i-'rom  tlw  middle  of  Apr'"  till  tlic  last  week  in  .Inly  there  are  no  prn 
jjnins  on  Inaccessible  l>land.  In  the  end  of  .Inly  llu-  males  bcf^in  to  come  ashore:  at  liist, 
in  twos  ami  Ibices,  and  then  in  lai;:;cr  nnmbers,  all  fal  ami  in  the  bes;  plnma!;<'  and  con- 
dition, 'i'licy  lii>  la/.il>  aboni  the  shoi'c  ftu'  a  da\  or  two,  and  then  bej^in  lo  prcpaic  llie 
nests.  The  females  arrive  in  the  "niddlc  (,f  An-^nst,  and  repair  at,  once  to  the  lu-sock- 
l)rakc.  .\  forlniiihl  later  they  lay  two.  rarely  three.  ci:,u;s,  jialc  bine,  very  ronnd  in  sliape, 
and  about  the  size  of  a.  Inrktn's  cirsr.  It  is  sin^nlar  that  one  of  the  two  e.!4;,!:s  is  ahimsi  cdn- 
stanlly  considerably  lari;tMlhan  the  other.  One  or  the  other  of  I  he  old  birds  m)w  s]  cm  Is  ninsi 
t>f  its  time  al  sea.  tishinij,.  and  the  ymnm  are  fed,  as  in  most,  sea-birds,  from  the  enip  of  liic 
jia rents,  in  DcctMidter  yonn^and  old  icavt>  the  land,  and  remain  jil,  sea  for  aliont  a  forlniuhl, 
aftiM-  which  tl'.c  moulting  season  commenc(>s.  They  ow  spread  thcnisclvcs  aboni  Ilic  clitTs 
anil  alon^  the  slu>re.  often  clindiin;;  in  their  tniconth  way,  int(^  places  winch  one  wouM  liav(> 
imaijined  inaccessible  to  them.     Karly  in  .\pril  they  all  take  ibeir  ih'iiartnre." 

Of  tin  Albatross  he  says:  " 'I'here  are  three  species  of  alliatross  on  Inaccessible  Island: 
the  \\andcrini;' alliatross.  Dioiin  lUd  < .vithmti :  the  moilymawk.  which  appears  to  iic  hrn", 
/).  (  liliirorlii/iirlKi.  though  the  name  i.',  s;ivcn  by  the  scalers  to  dilTerenl,  sjiecies,  —  ccrlaiidy 
further  souih  lo  />.  M(  Idinii'liri/s ;  and  th(<  ])i(nv,  /).  fiiliiiiiiosa.  About  two  liiiiulrcd 
eonples  of  the  wandcrinu;  albatross  visit  tlie  islaml.  They  arrive  iiml  alij;ld  sin,i;ly  on  ilie 
npper  jdatcan  early  in  Dccemlier,  and  bnild  a  eirenlar  nest  of  grass  and  clay,  about  a  foot; 
hiiih.  and  two  fc(>i  or  so  in  diann-ter.  in  "n  open  space  free  from  tussock  srr.iss,  w'lcic  tlio 
bird  lias  roimi  toexpand  his  wonderful  wings  and  rise  into  the  air.  The  female  lays  one  cijg 
in  the  middle  of  .lannary.  abmil  the  size  of  a  swan's,  white  with  a  band  of  small  lirick-rod 
spots  round  the  wider  end.     The  great  albatross  leaves  the  islaml  in  the  month  of  .Inly. 

l.iculenani  !spry.  K.  \.  of  the  "Challenger,''  writing  of  this  same  visit,  says  that 
the  whole  of  the  wet.  soiiden  tlal  lands  was  studded  with  large  white  albatrosses  sitting  on 
their  ncsls.  These  magnilicent  birds  covered  the  ground  in  great  nnmbers.  It  was  evi- 
dently the  commencement  of  the  breeding  season,  as  few  eggs  ivere  obtainabjp.  "I'liose 
splendid  birds  weighing  twenty  pounds,  and  measuring  from  eleven  to  twelve  feet  from 
tip  to  tip  of  wing,  seen  to  such  advantage  while  in  their  glory  at  sea  as  they  sweej)  so 
giaeefn'.ly  through  the  air,  are  altogether  out  of  their  clement  on  sliore.  In  order  to  rise 
again  after  settling  on  the  land,  tluy  are  obliged  to  run  some  distance  before  thej  obtain 
sutVici.'ut  velocity  for  the  air  to  get  under  their  wings  and  allow  them  to  feel  tliciiiselvts 
masters  of  the  situation."' 


li 


"UK 


(iONV       OK   TIIK    NDHTII    I'M'.ihU' 


507 


ipany  with 
ighhorlKMiil 

si(ll(>  up  ciiisc 
icovcii'il  inr  a 
-looKiii;;  lilUc 

•a,  Whii-li  lliry 

liuid  Id  Ihvi'iI 

r.llliilltlu^ 

)()lll    llic  >llUll>. 

•f  is  ill!  iiidica- 
\('iiiihii  i;ri>ii]). 

isl'mi^llisliril  liy 
IM'C  iirc  IK)  lirli- 

asliorc;  :il  liist, 
iiiianc  ituil  coii- 
.  to  iirciMVi'  llii' 

1(1  till'  lii^MirU- 
roiiiul  ill  sIkiih', 
;s  is  aliiKKl  1(111- 
low  s\  ends  nidsl, 

the  cidii  (if  the 
)out  a  t'diMiii^^liI, 
;  alxml  llii'  clilTs 

(inc  would  liavt> 

0." 

(•ssil)l(>  ls]au(l: 
irs  to  lie  lii'ic, 
ics,  —  ccrlaiuly 

lit  two  liiiiulrcd 
it  siii,u,ly  on  tlio 
»y,  alioiit  a  foot 
iMss,  wluMi'  the 

\ialt<laysou(M"i,'!:; 
small  lirii'k-ivd 

onlli  of  July, 
visit,  says  thai 
(issos  sittiui;  on 
rs.  It  was  ovi- 
ualde.  'Tliose 
wi'lvi'  fiH't  from 
s  thoy  sw(>t"i>  so 
In  order  to  rise 
fore  they  obtain 
foci  Ihenisolvts 


(if  (lie  AlcntiiiM  Isliiiids,  wlicrt!  il  <lisii|>|»('iiis  ;  and,  as  \v(i  iiolcid  in  Octu- 
licf,  l(S81,  s<t(in  alter  \vt  Icll  Oiinalaska  llicsc  l»irds  iippcarcd  and  wvvv, 
will)  lis  (M)ntiniiallv  >'*  pl>'asiinl  <ii°  stoiiny  wcatlicr,  inilil  we  iipiHOiielicd 
San  l*'ran<'is('(».  'I'lui  niajurily  seen  were  yuiuii;',  llic  liijlil  (^(ilnrcd  hirds 
luiinof  ()l)S(nvtMl  only  at  inlcrvals.  Ncinly  all  arc^  daik,  smoky  Inown, 
lull    licrc    and    llicrc    may    he  scisn   one   witli   a   ring  of    wiiiltt    IcallicrH 


I 


TIIK  AI-lt.ATKOSS. 

iii'oinid  llie  ninij)  at  (Ik;  l)as(!  of  tin;  tail  ;  and  all  liav(^  a,  marked  Hik;  of 
white  surronndinf:^  the  base;  of  the  hill,  '.''hose  with  tlie  white  on  the 
t;iil  alii'ost  invariahly  liav(!  ii  whit(f  spot  under  eaeh  eye.  The  <^raeefnl 
evolutions  of  these  birds  ariord  oiu!  of"  tlio  most  i)leasiiit^  siolils  during 
a  voy;ig(>  across  tlie  Nortli  raeilie,  and  th(!y  ;ire  a.  sourtte  of  'continual 
interest  during  tlu^  ollierwis(Mnonotonous  passage."  "^Phe  black-fo  )ted 
albatross  and  another  sjx'eies,  Dlomedea  Bracliyura^  the  short-tailed, 
a|>])eiir  to  wander  occasional iy  even  into  the  Arctic  Ocean.  (C'ruise 
orthe''rorwin,"of  1881.) 

The  graceful  evolutions  of  tlu;  bird  attract  the  mariner  in  both  the 
Northern  and  the  Southern  Seas. 


\, 


4' 


J# 


50H  AMKUICAN    EXI'LOHATIONS    IN    THE    ICE    ZONES. 

The  lines  of  Coleridge  seem  to  come  unhidden  hefore  one,   - 

"The  ice  was  here,  the  ice  was  tlierf. 
The  ice  was  all  around. 
It  crack'd,  and  growl'd,  and  roar'd  and  liowl  d. 
Like  noises  in  a  swound  I 


"Till  a  pjrcat  pen-bird  called  tin- 
Albatross  caipo  throuKh  the  sno\v-fo(». 
and  was  received  with  great  joy  and 
hospitality." 


"  And  lo  !  the  Albatross  proveth  a 
bird  of  (/ootl  omen,  and  followoth  the 
ship  as  it  returned  northward  through 
fog  and  tloatiug  ice." 


At  length  (lid  cross  an  Albatross 

Thorough  the  fog  it  came; 
As  if  it  had  been  a  Christian  soul. 

We  hailed  it  in  God's  name. 

It  ate  tlie  food  it  ne'er  had  eat. 

And  round  and  round  it  flew ; 
The  ice  did  split  with  a  thunder-fit; 

The  helmsman  steered  us  through! 

And  a  good  south  wind  spriuig  up  behind, 

The  Albatross  did  follow. 
And  every  day,  for  food  or  play. 

Came  to  the  mariners'  hollo  I 

In  mist  or  cloud,  on  mast  or  shroud, 
It  perclicd  for  vespers  nine; 

Wliiles  all  the  night,  through  fog-smoke  white, 
(ilimmered  the  white  moonshine." 

—  lilii/Die  of  (lie  Ani'icut  Mariner. 

LAND   DISCOVER  EI). 

When  tlie  three  ships  lay  near  ciich  other.  January  1(3,  hefore  the 
occurrence  of  the  gale  which  has  been  noted,  iilbatrosses.  Cape  pigeons, 
and  petrels  were  seen  in  large  numbers;  tind  appearances,  believed  tit 
the  time  to  be  land,  were  visible  from  all  the  three  shi[)s.  "The  eoin- 
parison  of  these  observations,"  says  Wilkes,  ""wlien  taken  in  conncetion 
M'ith  the  more  positive  proofs  of  its  existence,  has  left  no  doubt  that  the 
appearance  was  not  dece])tive.  From  this  day,  therefore,  we  date  the 
discovery  which  is  clainied  for  the  squadron."  The  Lieutenant  miHle  a 
sketch  of  what  he  himself  saw,  giving  this  sketch  in  his  Narrative  of  the 
Expedition:  on  the  "Porpoise,"  Lieutenant-Commanding  Ringgdld 
reported  that  after  an  hour's  close  observation  to  see  whether  the  stiii 
in  his  decline  would  (diange  the  color  of  the  large,  dark  object  seen 
over  the  licld-ice,  and   resembling  a  mountain,  it  remained  the  same 


DISAIM'OINTMENT    HAV, 


509 


owl  (1, 


t>. 


e  white, 

}l  Mariner. 


)et"(in'  tlif 
»e  pigeons, 
elievi'il  iit 

Tlio  (.'oni- 
onncc'tioii 
)t  that  the 
e  (late  the 
lit  made  u 

ive  of  the 

Kingg-oUl 
Ir  the  sun 
[)ject  seen 

tlu'  same 


ft; 


with  a  cloud  over  it  like  that  which  hovnis  over  high  laud.  lie  was 
thoroughly  of  the  opiuiou  that  it  was  au  island  surrounded  by  ice-lielcls. 
Ou  the  "  Peacock  "  also,  Passed-Midshipnieu  Eld  and  Ke3'uolds  reported 
to  Hudson  laud  seen  from  the  nuisthead,  —  a  statouieut  afterward  re- 
newed ou  their  return  to  the  United  States.-  "The  mountains  eouhl 
be  distinctly  seen  stretciiing  over  the  ice  to  the  southwest."  'J' wo 
])eaks  especially  were  distinctly  visible ;  the  sun  shone  brightly  upon 
ridge  after  ridge. 

On  the  19th  land  was  again  visible  from  the  "  V^incennes,"  and  Lieu- 
leuant  (late  Admiral)  Aldeu  rej)orted  it  twice  to  Lieutenant  Wilkes. 
The  ships  were  in  lat.  «)(>^  20'  S.,  long.  154^  80'  K. ;  at  8.^0  v.  m.  laud 
seen  by  all  on  board  the  "'  Peacock  ''  appeared  to  l)c  three  thousand  feet 
in  height.  Shortly  after  this  interesting  event,  the  "Peacock"  made  a 
narrow  escape  froui  entire  destruction,  striking,  on  the  :24th,  with  her 
larboard  quarter  ou  an  ice  floe,  with  such  force  as  to  carry  away  her 
sjtanker  boom,  stem  boat,  spar-deck  bulwarks,  knee  bimling  the  davit  to 
the  taffrail,  and  her  stanchions  as  far  as  the  gangway.  Happily,  rebound- 
ing from  the  shock,  she  cleared  the  ice,  barely,  however,  escaping  a  greater 
danger  by  the  falling  of  a  mass  of  ice  and  snow  which  would  have 
crushe^^l  her  had  she  not  been  a  half  length  out  of  the  line  of  the  berg. 
Hudson  was  compelled  to  return  north  to  Sydney. 

Jauuar}'  28d,  the  "Vinceunes"  again  steered  south,  entering  an 
open  water  s])ace,  but  by  midnight  reached  its  limit.  The  appearance 
of  laud  Avas  observed  ou  either  hand  east  and  west.  But  foiled  in  this 
attempt  to  reach  what  Wilkes  now  believed  to  be  a  continent,  he  stood 
out  of  the  bay,  naming  it  I)isa[)pointment  Bay,  by  which  name  it  still 
a))pears  ou  the  charts.  A  gale  of  unusual  violence  prevailing  from  the 
southwest  and  southeast  during  thirty  hours  of  the  days  January  20 
to  81,  the  Medical  Officers  of  the  "  Vincenues"  after  its  moderating, 
found  the  sanitary  condition  of  the  ship  such  as  to  demand  of  them  a 
special  report  which  they  made  to  the  Commander,  with  the  opinion 
tliat  a  few  more  days  of  such  exposure  as  the  crew  had  already  uiuler- 
gone  would  reduce  their  number,  by  sickness,  to  such  an  extent  as  to 
hazard  the  safety  of  the  ship  and  the  lives  of  all  on  board.  The  Com- 
mander asked  the  opinion  of  the  ward-room  officers  on  this  judgment 


j«! 


no 


AMKKICAN    KXPLOltATlONS    IN   THK    ICK   ZONKS. 


or 


m 


mU.'i 

lit 


f. 


pt^''".i 


of  the  surgeons ;  l)iit  not  deeniiiig  that  there  was  sullieient  cause-  f( 
departing  from  his  original  pUin  of  })assing  ah)ng  to  the  rendezvous 
appointed    for  the   sciuadron,  again  steered  south,  an.d  eontinued  his 


th 


eonise  along  tne  ley  barrier 


b 


Feb 


th 


Vin 


d    til 


u  P 


I' 


U( 


icenues 
again  to  tlic  southward  among  iee  islands,  tlie  land  still  in  siglit  iiiid 
with  tlie  same  hd'ty  appearanee  as  before.  ley  eliffs  from  one  iiiUKhcd 
and  iifty  to  two  l;un(h-ed  feet  in  height  bounded  it  on  all  sides;  there 
was  no  ai)pearanee  wiiatever  of  rocks;  all  was  covered  with  iee  and 
snow.  No  soundings  were  had  with  one  hundred  and  tifty  fathoms, 
althougii  the  water  was  much  discolored,  in  recording  whicli,  Wilkes 
says,  "Tlie  badness  of  tiie  sea-line  was  a  great  annoyance  to  us,  for 
deeper  soundings  would  probably  have  obtained  bottom.  'J1u!  land 
still  trended  to  the  west  as  far  as  the  eye  could  reach,  and  contlnucil 
to  exhibit  the  same  character  as  before."  The  longitude  was  now  loT  ' 
O'l'  ]'].,  hit.  (j{\~  I'l  S.,  the  magnetic  declination  westwardly.  Within 
the  last  few  days  the  sick  list  increased  to  twenty;  ulcers  caused  liy 
till'   least  scratch  were  prevalent. 

On  the  7th,  many  whales,  penguins,  iloeks  of  birds,  and  some  seals 
were  reported  ;  the  outline  of  high  land  could  be  well  distinguislied 
beyond  the  perpendicular  icy  barrier.  At  the  trend  of  the  land  here, 
Wilkes  named  a  point  Cape  C^arr,  after  the  first  liieiitenant  of  tlu> 
'•  Vineennes,"  its  positit)n  was  long.  131'  40'  E.,  lat.  Ol"^  49'  S. 

"On  the  9tli,"  says  Wilkes,  "wo  had  the  finest  day  w'>  had  yet  ex- 
perienced on  this  coast;  the  wind  had  veered  from  the  east  to  the  soutli- 
Avest,  and  given  us  a  clear,  bracing,  and  wholesome  Jitmosi)here.  Tlu; 
barrier  exhibited  the  same  appearance  as  yesterday.  Our  longitude 
was  125°  19'  E.,  lat.  05°  08'  S.,  variation  32°  45'  westerly.  The  current 
was  tried  but  none  found;  the  pot  was  only  visible  at  five  fathoms,  the 
color  of  the  water  a  dirty  green ;  the  dip  sector  gave  3'  15".  I  never 
saw  a  clearer  horizon,  or  one  better  defined,  than  we  had  to  the  north- 
ward. The  icy  barrier  really  was  beautiful.  At  midnight  we  had  a 
splendid  disi)lay  of  the  aurora  Australis,  extending  all  around  the 
northern  horizon  from  west-by-north  to  east-northeast.  Bet\)re  its 
ai)pearaiiee  a  few  clouds  only  were  seen  in  the  southeast,  on  whieli 


THK    ICK    nAUlllKU. 


511 


L;iuis('  fur 
ndt'/.Vdus 
iiued   his 

sU'iM'iii^- 
sight,  iiml 
I  huii(li(Ml 
c'S  ;  there 
I   ice  and 
'  tathdiHs. 
h,  Wilkes 
to   us,  i'lir 
Th(!  hind 
continueil 

MOW  l^'i"  ' 

.     Within 
caused  hy 

;ouie  seals 

tiii<;'uished 

and  here, 

lut  of  the 

d  yet  ex- 
tlie  south- 
lero.  The 
longitude 
le  current 
lionis,  the 
I  never 
the  Horlli- 
\ve  had  a 
rouud  the 
Before  its 
ou  which 


i.  ; 


ihc^  sotting  sun  cast  a  red  tint  that  barcdy  reiKh'rcd  tlioni  visil)l('.  The 
hori/on,  with  this  exception,  ai){)cared  chnir  and  well  deiined.  The 
spurs  or  brushes  of  light  freciuently  reached  the  zcnitii,  converging  to 
a  ])()int  near  it. 

''Altliongh  uo  clouds  could  he  seen  in  the  direction  of  the  aurora 
hefore  or  after  its  ai)pearance,  yet  when  it  was  first  seen,  there  a])penre(l 
clouds  of  the  form  of  massive  cumuli,  tinged  with  j)ale  yellow,  and  he- 
hind  them  arose  brilliant  red,  purple,  orange,  and  yelhAV  tints,  stream- 
ing upwards  in  innunuu'able  radiations,  with  all  the  shndes  that  a 
(•ond)in.ition  of  these  colors  could  effect.  In  its  uu)st  brilliant  state  it 
lasted  about  twenty  minutes.  The  gold-leaf  idectrometer  was  tried  hut 
without  being  affected;  the  instrunuMit,  howi^ver,  was  not  very  sensi- 
tive, lieing  somewhat  surprised  at  the  vast  mass  of  cunudi  which 
ai)peared  during  tlu?  continuance  of  the  aurora,  I  watched  afti-r  its  dis- 
appearance until  daylight,  but  could  see  only  a  few  clouds  ;  I  am 
therefore  inclined  to  impute  the  phenomenon  to  some  deception  caused 
by  the  light  of  the  aurora.  T'he  ap[)arent  altitude  of  these  clouds 
was  H'\ 

"Running  close  along  the  barrier,  which  continued  of  the  saine  char- 
acter, although  more  broken  than  yesterday,  we  saw  an  appearance  of 
land,  although  indistinctly,  to  the  southward.  The  water  was  of  the 
same  color  here  as  before,  and  the  wind  being  frt)m  the  southeast,  we 
made  some  progress,  and  found  ourselves  in  long.  122°  35'  E.,  lat.  05'^ 
27'  S.,  the  vari.ation  had  now  increased  to  44"^  ?^'  westerly.  N^  aurora 
was  seen  this  night,  althf)Ugh  it  was  looked  for  anxiously. 

"The  baroujpter  had  been  stationary  at  29.080  in.  for  the  last  three 
days;  it  now  began  to  fall;  the  temperature  of  the  air  was  31",  of  the 
water  32^^.  The  fall  of  the  barometer  was  soon  followed  by  snow  and 
thick  weatlier.  The  trending  of  the  barrier  had  been  southwest-by- 
west,  and  a  good  deal  of  ice-tloe  had  been  met  with,  which  we  ran 
through.  ''J''iie  sea  was  quite  smooth,  and  many  icebergs  were  enclosed 
in  the  barrier  which  was  very  compact,  and  composed  of  flat  fields. 

"During  the  12th  we  had  pleasant  weather,  and  at  2  a.m.  lilled  away. 
At  8  A.  M.  land  was  reported  to  the  southwest.  Keeping  along  the 
barrier,  and  increasing  our  latitude,  I  again  had  hopes  of  getting  near 


512 


li 


AMEIUCAN    KXPLORATIONS    IN    TFIK    ICK    ZONKS. 


»?'iil 


mp^ 


r. 


Siill. 


tlic  liiinl.  Wv  piisHod  tliroiigli  j^reat  (luiintitioa  of  larj^e  floe-UT  umii 
1  p.  M.  when  tlio  solid  barrier  |)revente(l  our  further  i)ru<ri(>jss.  I.uiid 
was  now  distinctly  seen  iVoiii  eii^hteeii  to  twenty  niiles  distant,  hearinr 
iVoi.i  south-southeast  to  southwest  —  a  lofty  mountain  rano-e  covcifil 
with  snow,  i!iou<;h  showin<:j  many  ridges  and  indentations.  I  laid  ||,,, 
ship  to  for  thriH"  hours,  in  ho[)es  of  diseovering  some  openiu"  or  niovc- 
nienl  in  the  icH',  but  none  \,  .is  (ixporicmeed.  I  tiied  the  curr(>nl,  lnii 
found  none.  The  water  was  of  a  dark,  dirty  green.  We  sounded  with 
tiie  wire  line  in  two  hundred  and  lifty  fatlionis,  and  found  no  bottom. 
The  temperature  at  that  depth  was  iWV,  of  the  air  31 '.  The  hjuiitM 
had  in  places  the  ai)pearanct^  of  being  bvok'-u  up,  a. id  we  liad  decreased 
our  longitude  to  112  i(>'  IJ"  K.,  while  our  latitude^  was  (14  AT'  S.  This 
puts  Ih."  l.ind  in  about  i)5''  'JO'  S..  and  its  treiuling  nearly  east  and  \v(!st. 
The  lire  of  I  he  ic}'  barrier  was  ge.ierall_y  unlfonn,  although  it  was 
occasionally  pierced  with  deep  bays. 

"•'I'he  14th  was  remarkably  (;lear  and  the  land  ve^y  distinct.  \\y 
measurement  we  ma(U^  the  extent  ')f  coast  of  the  Antarctic  Continent 
then  in  sight  seventy-five  miles,  and  by  a{)proxiniate  measureineiii 
tli.-oe  thousand  feet  high.  Ofi  running  in,  several  icebergs  were  ])asse(l, 
which  were  greatly  discolorei  with  earth  ;  on  effecting  a  landing  on  an 
ice  island,  the  party  from  the  ships'  boats  found  endiedded  in  it  gravel, 
sand,  mud,  and  boulders,  the  larg"st  of  which  was  about  iive  or  six  feet 
in  diameter.  Alany  specimens  were  obtained,  and  it  was  amusin<i-  \n 
see  the  eagerness  and  desire  of  all  hands  to  ])ossesy  themselves  of  a 
piece  of  the  Antarctic  Continent."  On  the  ITtli  further  progress  to 
the  westward  was  cut  oil' and  the  squadron  obliged  to  retrace  its  ste|)s, 
a  large  number  of  whales  were  seen  of  the  liu-back  species  and  of 
vTXtraordinary  size;  their  close  a])proach  was  proof  that  they  had  never 
b  'on  exposed  to  the  pursuit  of  skilful  hu. iters.  Their  biowiups  re- 
sembled tliaf  of  a  number  oi  locomotives. 

The  Aurora  Australis  again  appeared  in  most  brilliant  fci-m,  ravs 
from    tie    horizon    to    Ihe    zenitli  in  all  directions    in    the   most    I.ri! 
liant  coruscations ;  others  proceeding  as  if  from  a  po^'nt  in  the  zenitli, 
Hashed   in   brilliant  })encillings  of  light,  like  sparks  of  electric  iluid  in 
vacuo,  and  reajipeared  again  to  vanish  ;  forming  themselves  into  -me 


(JHAirr  sKNT   ro  isoss. 


r)13 


-ii'c  until 
s.  Liiinl 
.,  Ix'iirin^' 

!    cnVtM't'il 

laid  I  he 
or  inovc- 
ITtMll,  hut 
iided  Willi 
:)  Ixittoiii. 
Hi  l)anii'r 
(UmtciisimI 
•  S.  This 
and  Nvcist. 
i;h  it   was 

:iiict.     lly 
Continent 
asurcniciit 
'IT  ]>ass('(|, 
ini4'  on  an 
it  gravel, 
or  six  I'ool 
innsing  to 
dvos  of  a 
ogress  to 
its  steps, 
s   and   oi' 
luul  never 
)winp;s  re- 

I'oi-ni,  rays 

most    i.vi! 

he  zointli, 

ic  lli'.id  in 

I  into  one 


body,  lik(!  an  miibrolla,  or  fan,  slmt  up;  tlioy  showed  all  tlie  prisnnitie 
colors  at  once  in  ([uick  siujcession.  So  renmrkahlc  was  the  phcMionu;- 
iion  thai  even  the  sailors  were  eonstantly  cxclainiing  in  admiration  of 
its  brilliancy.  The  best  [>osit.ion  in  which  to  view  it  was  by  lying  Ihit 
upon  the  deck,  and  looking  up.  The  electrometer  was  tricul,  but  no 
elleet  j)ereeived.  The  star  C'auopus  was  in  the  zenith  at  the  time,  and 
tiiough  visible  through  the  aurora,  was  nnudi  dimiiushed  in  brightnesa. 
On  this  night  also  the  moon  was  partially  (Mdipsed.  < 

Ifaving  reached  97°  east,  where  the  "Vincennes "'  found  the  ice  trend- 
ing to  the  northward,  the  ship  followed  it  closely  to  Within  a  few  miles 
of  the  position  where  Cook  was  stnjiped  by  the  barrier  in  177'>.  The 
weather  was  now  stormy,  and  tJie  season  far  advanced  ;  Wilkes  bore  up 
for  Sydney,  where  he  learned  that  news  had  been  re(;eived  of  the  dis- 
covery by  the  English  sealer,  '*  Bellamy,"  of  land,  in  long.  1(35°  E.,  soutb 
of  and  near  the  position  where  the  '"Vincennes"  had  struck  the  icy 
harrier.  lie  also  heard  that  C'aptain  Sir  ;Jiunes  Ross  was  expected  from 
Kngland,  and,  for  the  benefit  of  his  exploring  scpiadron,  Ibrwarded  to 
Captain  Iloss  a  tracing  of  the  chart  prej)ared  as  the  American  squadron 
had  [)assed  along  the  barrier,  laying  down  the  land  not  only  where  it 
had  actually  been  determined  to  exist,  but  those  places  in  which  (jvery 
;i|)pearance  denoted  its  exist(>nce,  forming  almost  a  continuous  line 
iVom  long.  100°  to  97'  East.  T'his  chart,  with  Wilkes'  notes  and  ex- 
jKMieuce,  and  the  sup[)osed  jiosition  of  Bellamy's  Islands,  was  received 
by  Uoss  at  llobart  Town  some  months  previous  to  his  going  South.  In 
connection  with  the  statement  of  this  i'act,  Wilkes  seems  very  justly  to 
hav(!  expressed  his  surprise  that  Captain  Ross  afterward  should  have 
asserted  that  he  had  run  over  a  clear  ocean  where  he  (Wilkes)  had 
hiid  down  the  land — Bellamy's  —  which  an  examination  of  the  chart 
would  have  assured  him  had  never  been  claimed  by  the  "  Vinceniies." 
He  also  remarks  that  "on  reference  to  Captain  Ross's  chart  and  track 
it  will  be  seen  that  he  did  not  approach  near  enough  to  our  positions 
cither  to  determine  errors  or  verify  results,  and  without  imputing  any 
intentional  misrepresentation  it  would  secin  somewhat  unusu:d  that  on 
the  Captain's  chart  the  discoveries  of  others  (though  of  nuich  less 
importance)  should  be  misrepresented,  while   those  of  the  American 


ii 


f\ 


M4 


AMERICAN    KXPl.OIlATTONa    IN   THK    TPK   ZONKS. 


U»fc«!Wtiiihh#* 


Expedition  were  f)mitte(l,  when  it  is  known  lie  was  in  possession  of  our 
operations  more  fully  than  tliose  of  others." 

It  is  to  he  regretted  that  this  controversy  occurred,  as  well  us  th,, 
rt'i)orted  declining  hy  the  Freneli  discovery  ships  under  DTtn  ilU..  i,, 
recognize  in  tiiis  region  the  Ihig  of  the  U.S.  Steamer,  "Peac(u;l<  ; ""  jt 
was  thought  still  niore  remarkable  even  in  Kngland  that  Sir  .luuics 
Ross  should  have  said  that  he  "would  have  expected  the  national  piidt! 
of  both  the  American  and  French  (\)mmanders  to  have  caused  tluni 
rather  to  choose  any  other  i)ath  for  i)enetrating  southward  tli;ni  ili(> 
place  for  the  ex[)loratiou  of  which  hin  expedition  was  preparing." 
Keferring  to  this  last  statement  the  North  British  lievieir  (vol.  viii. 
1847-48)  says:  "'We  cannot  concur  with  our  excellent  author  in 
blaming  either  the  French  or  American  Commander.  The  liriiish 
Expedition  iniglit  never  have  sailed,  or  might  never  have  reached  lis 
destination  ;  and  in  such  an  event,  the  commanders  could  never  have 
justified  themselves  to  their  respective  governments,  had  they  omitted, 
from  any  feelings  of  delicacy,  to  take  the  best. path  to  the  Antarctic 
Pole."  The  tribute  from  the  lloyal  Geographical  Society,  J^ondon, 
which  here  follows,  is  an  example  of  the  generous  unci  just  sentiments 
entertained  by  that  society  and  is  exi)ressive  of  the  general  ieelinn-  of 
explorers  and  geographers,  and  Sir  James  Ross  himself  has  testified  tlio 
merit  of  the  U.S.  Expedition  and  of  its  commander  in  i\u\  languan'c 
which  folhnvs  the  address.  Mr.  W.  Hamilton,  who,  as  I'residcnt  ot' 
the  Royal  Geogra[)hical  Society,  May  22,  1848,  presented  to  the  I'.S. 
Minister,  Mr.  Bancroft,  the  gold  medal  awarded  by  the  society  to 
Captain  Wilkes,  said  to  the  society:  — 

"  Gknti.f.jien,  —  Yoii  have  just  hoard  the  announcement  that  the  Council  has 
awarileil  the  Founder's  medal  to  Captain  Wilkes,  of  the  United  States  Navy,  i'ov  tlie 
zeal  and  intollifrence  with  which  he  carried  out  tlie  Scientific  Exploring  Expedition 
entrusted  to  him  by  the  Government  of  the  United  States  in  the  yciars  IMIiS- 
1842;  and  for  the  volumes  which  he  has  published,  detailing  the  narrative  of  tliat 
expedition. 

"  It  therefore  becomes  my  duty  to  endeavor  to  give  you  some  account  of  the  per- 
formances of  the  gallant  olTicer,  and  of  the  services  which  he  has  rendered  to  l!io 
progress  of  geography.  It  must  be  remembered  that  this  was  the  first  expoilitiori 
ever  fitted  out  by  the  Government  of  the  United  States  for  scientific  purposes. 
Greater  difficulties  must,  therefoi'e,  be  supposed  to  have  attended  its  organization 


TlIK   MKDAL   AWAUDKD. 


515 


\ 


v\\  as  llic 
'rvillc.  1(1 
(ick  : "'  it 
Mr  .liuiics 
)iiul  |ii'i(l(' 
isod  tlicni 
.   tliaii  (lie 
i'ei)iU'iiin." 
(vdl.  viii. 
author   ill 
10    liiilisli 
caclu'(l  its 

U'Vl'V  \\i\\{'. 

y  (»iuitlt'(l, 
1  Aiitaictit! 
/■,  L(iih1(iii, 
sentiiuciils 
I  ft'oliii*''  of 
stiticd  lli(! 
hni;j,ua<i;e 
sidciit  ni 

the  r.s. 

;-)(»ciuty   to 

C'ounc'il  has 

ivy,  for  llie 

■r  Expedition 

yinirs    lf^;!S- 

vtivc  of  tiiiit 

it  of  the  IMT- 
idored  to  the 
3t  expotlitioii 
do  purposes, 
orffivniziition 


i 


than  wotiM  Ikivo  liocn  iho  case  witli  more  Dxporienci! ;  on  the  other  hand,  merit  tlie 
of  suceesa  is  proportionally  increased. 

*' Tlio  expedition  left  the  Hampton  lloads  on  the  17th  of  Aiij^iist,  IH.'JS,  and  its 
first  seientilie  operation  was  the  e.stahlishnient  of  an  ol)servatory  at  Orange  Harbor, 
in  Terra  del  Fiiejjo;  hero  some  of  the  vessels  remained  while  others  were  detaehed 
to  the  wcstwaril,  and  Captain  Wilkes  himself  proceeded  on  the  2.jth  of  iMdn'iiary  to 
the  South,  for  the  jHirpose  of  cxpioritig  the  southeast  side  of  I'aliiK  r\i  Lund.  After 
rejiehinf^  Int.  t'liJ  '  2o'  S.,  findin<^  the  season  too  far  advanced  to  make  any  proiiress 
against  the  ice,  he  turned  his  ship's  head  to  the  North,  and  the  whole  squadron  was 
soon  coUeited  at  Valparaiso.  Heru  another  observatory  was  established.  A  seientiflo 
party  visited  the  bank  of  snow  from  which  the  city  is  supplied,  on  one  of  the  outlying 
r.'inges  of  the  Cordilleras,  the  princij)al  heights  of  which  rose  nearly  four  thousand 
feet  above  them;  others  visited  the  mines  of  Chili.  They  then  jn-oceeded  to  the 
coasts  of  Pern,  and  thence,  after  a  visit  to  the  interior  and  to  th(!  ruins  of  Pachiw 
camac,  commenced  their  explorations  in  the  Pacilic. 

"On  the  2(ith  of  December,  18;W,  they  left  Sydney,  and  first  fell  in  with  tlie  ice 
on  the  10th  of  January,  ls40,  in  lat.  01  8'  S.,  antl  long.  IG'2  o'J'  E. ;  and  on  the  lllh 
some  of  the  otlicers  were  confident  they  saw  indications  of  land.  Ca})tain  Wilkes 
does  not  rely  much  on  this;  but  on  the  IGth  these  appearances  became  more  posi- 
tive, and  on  the  19th  they  distinctly  saw  land  in  long.  154^  30'  E.,  lat.  G(J^  20'  S. 
Captain  Wilkes,  however,  only  dates  the  discovery  which  he  claims  for  his  expedi- 
tion from  the  l;md  seen  on  the  IGth.  I  mention  this  the  more  anxiously  on  this 
occasion  on  account  of  the  controversy  which  has  arisen  between  him  and  Sir  James 
Ross  who  sailed  over  the  spot  where  land  was  supposed  to  have  been  seen  on  the 
11th;  to  this,  however,  I  wish  to  allude  as  lightly  as  possible,  convinced  as  I  am, 
that  both  these  gallant  oflicers  have  only  been  anxious  to  establish  the  truth,  and  to 
.'idvance  the  cause  of  science.  Undoubtedly  on  the  tracing  which  Captain  Wilkes 
furnished  to  Sir  James  lloss,  the  land  supposed  to  have  been  seen  on  the  lllh  of 
.Funnary  is  sketched  in,  and,  as  a  measure  of  precaution,  it  was  perh^'ps  prudent  in 
Captain  Wilkes  so  to  do;  it  wonld  have  been  more  satisfactory  if  he  could  have 
stated  to  Sir  James  Ross,  as  ho  had  done  in  his  published  account,  on  what  slight  and 
imperfect  evidence  its  existence  in  that  position  was  laid  down.  After  continuing 
ills  explorations  of  the  Antarctic  Continent  as  far  to  the  westward  as  long.  97^  E., 
Captain  Wilkes  finding  his  provisions  short  and  the  season  far  advanced,  turned  his 
ship's  head  to  the  North  and  quitted  these  frozen  latitudes.  ...  I  regret  th;it  it  is 
iiiii)ossible,  within  the  limits  of  this  address,  to  do  justice  to  the  contents  of  the  five 
volumes  in  which  Captain  Wilkes  has  described  the  progress  of  the  expedition;  but 
I  trust  I  have  done  enough  to  show  that  the  exertions  of  Captain  Wilkes  and  the 
results  of  the  expedition  intrusted  to  him,  have  in  every  respect  been  such  as  to 
entitle  him  to  the  highest  mark  of  distinction  which  it  is  in  the  power  of  this  society 
to  bestow." 

In  his  "  Voyage  of  Discovery  and  Research  in  the  Southern  and 
Antarctic  Regions,"  Vol.  I.,  p.  116,  Sir  James  Ross  says:  — 


I 


I-' 


*^1 


ii 


) 


J 


i  i;.; 


ak; 


AMKIMCAN    KXPLOUAi'IONS    IN    TIIK    ICK   ZONKS. 


"'I'lic  JirdiKdis  uimI  persovt'iing  cxortions  of  the  Aiiu'iiciin  Kxiildiiurr 
Kx|u'(li(i(»ii,  (■(•iitiiiiu'cl  tlirouglidut  a  pt'riod  of  niDie  tliuii  six  wcjck 
undtT  circunistaiu'cs  <»r  <i;rt'at  peril  and  luirdsliip,  eaniiot  fail  to  i('|I,.(t 
the  liighcHt  credit  on  those  eii<j;a^ed  in  the  enterprise,  and  exciif  tins 
a(hniratioii  of  all  wlio  nvv  in  the  sniaUest  (U'gree  ae<|uainted  willi  the 
hdiorious  mitnre  of  an  icv  navigation."' 

Koss  was  ni(tre  snceessfnl  tlian  either  DTi'vilU;  or  Wilkes.  Tin 
French  eonitnander  had  heen  the  first  to  [iropose  an  .Vntarelic  Ivxprdi- 
tion.  Uoss's  scpiadron  was  better  titled  for  ice  navigation,  and  tlir 
circnnistanees  attending  the  date  ol'  his  ernise  were  more  favorable.  Ijo 
penetrated  to  7S'  11  ,  disi-overing  what  ho  named  N'^ietoria  I^and,  and 
following  its  toast  I'rom  70  toT!*  S.  lat.  On  its  northern  extremilv  lie 
discovered  two  active  volcanoes, — Mount  Krehus,  l'J,i}t)0  feet,  and  Miiiint 
Terror,  lO.S.SO  leet  in  height, — together  with  other  (devations  aloii"- ;i 
coast,  steep,  ii)(d<y,  and,  like  nearly  all  the  Antarctic;  lands,  utt('ii\  Imic 
of  all  hut  ice  or  snow.  lie  assigned  the  position  of  the  S.  Magndic; 
INde  to  iat.  TA  ,V  S.  :  long.  M'y^^  H'  D*  His  whole  line  uf  discoveiy 
retains  a  place  on  the  admiralty  charts. 


I  11    >  I    '" 


ii 


*  For  tlit>  botliT  iiifonniitiou  of  llic  };<>noral  loader  the  following  notes  are  slvon  in  re- 
gard to  the  Dip  and  the  Variation  of  the  Needle.  In  rej^ard  to  the  dip,  "  Iloheil  Noitiiiin 
lirst  discovered  in  l.")7((  that  if  a  t)ar  of  steel  he  supported  on  its  eentn;  of  f,'raviiy  so 
that  it  will  remain  neeossarily  in  any  position  in  whieh  it  is  placed,  it  will,  after  Imviii" 
been  magnetized,  swing  into  the  magnetic  meridian  and  place  its  length  al  an  aiiulii 
with  the  horizon.  In  the  northern  magnetic  hemisphere  the  north  end  of  tiie  needji! 
points  downward,  making,  for  example,  at  New  Vork,  an  angle  of  about  7o  "  wiili  (Jio 
horizon;  in  the  southern  magnetic  hemisphere  the  south  pole  of  tlui  nuignet  jioints 
downward.  This  phenonuMion  is  called  the  t7/y)  of  thr  needle.  We  shall  jjroeecd  id 
examine  the  behavior  of  such  a  needle  when  it  is  carried  over  the  surface  of  the  earlli. 
rrocceding  north  and  to  the  west  of  New  Vork,  we  shall  observe  the  north  end  of  the 
needle  dipping  ''.ore  and  more,  until,  having  reached  a  N".  Iat.  of  70*^  ">',  and  a  W.  loiii,', 
of  0(F  4t)',  we  may  have  attained  the  position  where  ronimandcr  .lames  Koss  in  lsl:i 
lirsi  observed  the  needle  taking  an  exactly  perpendicular  position.  This  point  is  ciilicil 
the  north  mnunriic  polo  of  the  earth.  It  is  inferred  from  observations  on  the  dip  in  iln' 
Southern  Hemisphere  that  a  soutliern  niaf/uetlc  pole  —  where  the  needle  will  be  vcriiiMl 
with  its  south  pole  downward — exists  about  Iat.  S.  70',  and  long.  125°  E.  of  Giveiiwicli. 
This  would  place  this  pole  in  the  territory  discovered  by  our  countryman,  Wilkes.  NO 
explorer,  however,  has  reachcil  the  south  magnetic  pole."  —  Johnson's  Encijclojicdid. 

In  regard  to  the  variation  of  the  compass,  it  is  matter  of  observation  that  the  iiiaj,'- 
net  when  delicately  suspended  is  always  shifting  its  direction.  The  declination  is  (mIIciI 
west  when  the  north  end  of  the  magnet  points  to  the  west  of  true  north,  and  east  wlion 


ix     weeks 

to  relleit 

ixcile  till! 

witli  llu! 

UcH.     Tlu 
e    I'iXpedi- 
I,  ami   till! 
ruble.    Ho 
liUnd,  iuid 
tremity  Ik; 
iind  Miiiiiil 
)us  al()ii<^  u 
illerly  hare 
'i.  Maoiielic 
f  discovery 

re  i^ivcii  in  ro- 

licit  Noiiii;m 

if  ^riivily  so 

;i[tt'r  li;ivin;,' 

ill   :ui  iiimlc. 

of  the  iiccillf 

1.;^  Willi  the 

la^iict  jioiiits 

iill  ju'oct'i'il  111 

of    tllC    .'illlll. 

•Ill  oml  of  llii' 
ml  ii  W.  loiii;. 
Uoss  in  ISI-J 
point,  is  ciillcil 
tho  dip  in  I  111' 
•ill  1)0  vciliciil 
of  (iivcnwiiili. 
Wilkes.    No 
Ucloii('<li(t. 
1  thai  Uic  iiia,!,'- 
nation  is  calii'd 
and  cast  wlum 


CONTIlinrTIONH   TO   TIIK   MUHKUM, 


niT 


I 


Of  tliLi  reported  discovfry  of  iiii  Aiitiiretit!  Coiitiiudit  by  Wilkes  tho 
line  will  be  loiiiid  laid  down  on  the  Aiitanitie  eluirtsof  the  II.  S.  llydro- 
<;nii)hie  Ollice,  as  takiMi  from  his  Ollieial  Ueport.  (leograpliers  at 
pres(!Mt,  however,  beliisve  that  in  place  of  the  existence  of  an  ind)ioken 
continental  coast  lin(^  {\ivvv,  is  a  chain  of  islands  in  this  i[iiarter  of  the 
Antarctii!  extending;'  from  the  lloth  to  the  ir)Oih  nieriiliaii.  As  in  the 
east!  of  I'alnier's  Land,  which  has  been  referred  to,  so  in  rcigard  also 
to  th(!  disuoveries  by  Wilkes,  very  little  credit  is  given  on  the  English 
charts. 

IlKSKAItCUKS    ANI>   (WUJ.KCTIONH. 

Whatever  inii)arlial  jndgnicnt  may  bi;  passed  upon  these  reported 
discoveries  as  to  their  extent  or  their  geographiiial  value  in  such  almost 
unapproachable  regions,  the  scientiiic  researchi'S  and  the  extensive  col- 
lections made  by  tlii!  expedition  are  of  much  practical  value  to  science 
and  to  Jiavigation.     Thi!  late  Professor  Henry  in  his  Annual  I{(!port  of 


the  Snuthsonian  Institution  to  the  Hoard  of  lleuents  fo*-  th 


ir  1871, 


ne  lioarci  oi  itegenis  lo'-  ini!  yeai 
while  acknowledging  the  recei[it  of  several  valued  coll  jctions  of  speei- 
iiieiis  for  the  National  Museum  (among  them  those  donated  by  ('a[»tain 
('.  F.  Hall  from  his  expedition  of  l8l)4-b'J)  says  of  the  collection 
hroiight  home  by  Lieutenant  Wilkes,  that  "the  basis  of  the  National 
Museum  is  tlie  collection  of  specimens  of  tlii!  United  States  Ivx[)loiiug 
Kxix'dition  under  Cai)tain,  now  Admiral,  Wilkes,  originally  deposited 
ill  the  Patent  Ollice,  and  transferred  to  the  Smithsonian  in  iSoH."  In 
his  Report  for  the  year  1SG7,  when  enumerating  the  collections  in  the 
Museum  at  that  date,  he  luul  said:  "'I'he  collections  made  by  the 
Naval  Expedition,  1888-42,  are  su[)posed  greatly^  to  exceed  those  of 
luiy  other  similar  character  fitted  out  by  any  government;  no  [)ublished 
series  of  results  com[)aring  in  magnitude  with  that  issued  under  the 
direction  of  the  Joint  Library  Conunittees  of  Congress.     The  coUec- 

it  points  east  of  true  north.  Observations  for  this  variation  from  the  true  north,  are  a 
most  important  I'lement  in  navigation,  tlic  want  of  tliese  having  doubtless  wreclced  many 
a  misguided  ship.     The  variation  at  Boston  in  1877  was  11°  .30'  W. 

For  a  most  interesting  and  full  historical  and  inatlicniatical  discussion  of  both  dii)  and 
variat'  'i,  see  Appendix  12,  "lieport  of  U.  a.  Coast  and  Geodetic  tjurvey  for  1882."  — 
C.  A.  Schott. 


Ill 


■il 


■ill 


618 


AMERICAN   P:XPL0KAT[0NS   IN  THE  ICE   ZONES. 


!:!ll 


tions  made  embrace  full  series  of  the  animals,  plants,  minerals,  and 
etiniological  material  of  the  regions  visited.  They  not  only  afford  a 
basis  for  a  comparison  of  the  different  modes  of  life  and  stao-es  of 
advancement  among  existing  tribes,  but  an  important  means  of  deter- 
mining tiie  ethnological  relations  of  the  natives  of  the  present  day  to 
tliose  whose  ancient  remains  lie  thickly  strewn  over  our  wliole  conti- 
nent. For  example,  implenients  of  stone  and  of  bone  are  almost  every 
where  found,  tlie  workmanship  of  races  that  have  long  since  disappeared, 
and  of  which  the  use  would  be  difficult  of  determination,  were  not 
similar  implements,  as  to  form  and  material,  found  in  actual  use  at  the 
present  day  among  savages,  particularly  those  inhabiting  the  various 
islands  of  the  Pacific  Ocean." 

Professor  Henry  is  at  pains  to  state  that,  "the  Museum  itself  is  not  an 
Institution  having  for  its  object  the  gratification  'of  the  merely  curious, 
but  is  iiitended  to  embrace  a  collection  of  specimens  of  nature  and 
art  which  shall  exliibit  the  natural  resources  and  industries  of  tlie 
country,  or  to  present  at  one  view  the  materials  essential  to  the  condi- 
tion of  high  civilization  which  exists  in  the  different  States  of  tlio 
American  Union;  to  show  the  various  processes  of  manufacture  wliich 
have  been  adopted  by  us,  as  well  as  those  used  in  foreign  countries:  in 
short,  to  form  a  great  educational  establishment  by  means  of  which  the 
inhabitants  of  our  own  country,  as  well  as  those  of  foreign  lands  wlio 
visit  our  shores,  may  be  informed  as  to  the  means  which  exist  in  the 
United  States  for  enjoyment  of  human  life  in  the  present,  and  the 
improvement  of  these  means  in  the  future."  In  this  connection  tlie 
reader  is  referred  to  the  recent  Reports  of  the  Smithsonian  now  in 
charjie  of  Professor  S.  F.  Baird,  for  an  account  of  the  educational  char- 
acter  of  this  inuseum  in  its  increasing  departments.  A  recent  arrange- 
ment made  under  the  sanction  of  Secretary  Chandler,  assigns  some  of 
the  junior  Naval  Officers  to  temporary  diity  at  the  Museum ;  a  most 
valuable  training  being  thus  provided  for  their  futnre  usefulness  as 
explorers  in  the  several  branches  of  science,  contributions  to  which 
they  will  be  led  to  secure  when  at  sea  and  in  foreign  lands.  The  total 
number  of  specimens  in  tlie  Museum,  not  yet  classified,  already  ex- 
ceeds 80,000. 


WlLIvES     ^U>D11ESS. 


519 


rals,  and 

afford  a 
stages  of 
i  of  deter- 
nit  (la)'  to 
lole  coiiti- 
lost  every 
iappeared, 

were  not 
use  at  the 
lie  variniis 

If  is  not  an 
slv  curions, 
nature  and 
neh  of  tlie 
tlie  eondi- 
ites  of  tlio 
(tare  wliich 
untrics :  in 
wliicli  the 
lands  who 
xist  in  tlie 
it,  and  the 
iiection  tlie 
an  now  in 
Itional  char- 
11 1  ar  ran  ge- 
ms some  of 
Ain ;  a  most 
lef Illness  as 
Is  to  which 
The  total 
lalreadv  ex- 


ilESX^LTS   OF   THE  CRUISE    UEPOHTED   BY   LIEUTENANT   WILKES. 

Of  the  chief  results  of  the  Expedition,  Lieutenant  Wilkes  in  his  Nar- 
rative and  in  an  Address  delivered  June  20,  1882,  before  the  National 
institute,  the  predecessor  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  thus  speaks :  — 

"The  evidence  that  an  extensive  continent  lies  within  the  icy  bar- 
rier must  have  appeared  in  the  account  of  my  proceedings,  but  will  bt, 
]  think,  more  forcibly  exhibited  by  a  comparison  with  the  aspect  of 
other  lands  in  the  same  southern  parallel.  Palmer's  Land,  for  instance, 
which  is  in  like  manner  invested  with  ice,  is  so  at  certain  seasons  of  the 
year  only,  while  at  others  it  is  quite  clear,  because  strong  currents  pre- 
vail there,  which  sweep  tlie  ice  off  to  the  northeast.  Along  the  Antarc- 
tic continent  for  the  whole  distance  explored,  which  is  upwards  of  one 
thousand  live  hundred  miles,  no  open  strait  is  found.  The  coast,  where 
the  ice  permitced  approach,  was  found  enveloped  with  a  perpendicular 
barrier,  in  some  cases  unbroken  for  fifty  miles.  If  there  was  onl}'^  a 
chain  of  islands,  the  outline  of  the  ice  would  undoubtedly  be  of  another 
form ;  and  it  is  scarcely  to  be  (Conceived  that  so  long  a  chain  could  ex- 
tend so  nearly  in  the  same  parallel  of  latitude.  The  land  has  none  of 
the  abruptness  of  termination  that  the  islands  of  high  southern  lati- 
tude exhibit;  and  I  am  satisfied  that  it  exists  in  one  uninterrupted  line 
of  coast  from  Ringgold's  Knoll,  in  the  east,  to'  Enderby's  Land  in  the 
Avest ;  that  the  coast  (at  long.  95°  E.)  trends  to  the  north,  and  this  will 
account  for  the  icy  barrier  existing,  with  little  alternation,  where  it  was 
seen  by  Cook  in  1773.  The  vast  number  of  ice  islands  conclusively 
points  out  that  there  is  some  extensive  nucleus  which  retains  them  in 
their  position ;  for  I  can  see  no  reason  why  the  ice  should  not  be  dis- 
engaged from  islands,  if  they  were  sucli,  as  happens  iu  all  other  cases 
HI  like  latitudes.  The  formation  of  the  coast  is  different  from  what 
would  probably  be  found  near  islands,  soundings  being  obtained  in 
comparatively  slioal  water ;  and  the  color  of  the  water  also  indicates 
that  it  is  not  like  other  southern  lands,  abrupt  and  precipitous.  This 
cause  is  sufficient  to  retain  the  huge  masses  of  ice  by  their  being 
attached  by  their  lower  surfaces  instead  of  their  sides  only."  Of  the 
scientific  work  of  the  Exjiedition,  he  says  :  — 


f 


520 


AMKUtCAN    EXrLGHATIONS   IN   THE  ICE   ZONIS. 


ii   ,1 


.   " 


"  At  nil  the  important  points  of  the  cruise  an  observatory  was  estab- 
lished, and  the  longitude  determined  by  moon-culminating  stars  in  con- 
nection with  similar  observitions  at  Cambridge  (Mass.)  llnivcrsitv 
by  Professor  Bond,  and  at  Washington,  by  Lieutenant  (iilliss.  The 
latitude  was  deduced  by  circununeridian  observations  of  the  sun  and 
stars;  meridian  distances  were  carried  througlumt  the  route  by  clu-ou- 
omelers  from  and  to  well  established  points;  every  opportiniity  was 
taken  to  determine  the  true  position  of  islands,  reefs,  etc.,  by  observa- 
tions made  on  shore  ;  the  labors  in  hydrography  were  extei^iive  :  in  all 
the  explorations,  the  constant  aim  was  to  obtain  useful  results:  i)artic- 
ular  attention  was  ])aid  to  ascertain  whether  wood,  water,  and  what 
kind  of  refreshments  (if  any)  could  be  had;  anchorages  were  lookinl 
for  and  surveyed  :  and  the  character  of  the  natives  and  the  kind  of 
treatment  that  nuiy  be  ex]»ected  from  them. 

"  In  magnetism,  observations  were  made  at  iifty-seven  stations,  for 
dij)  and  intensity  :  and  at  every  point  where  the  ships  remained  a  sni- 
ticient  time,  for  diurnal  variation  ;  the  dip  was  observed  at  sea  frc- 
quently.  and  the  ship's  head  always  kept  north  and  south  whilst  the 
observations  were  making;  very  many  attemjits  were  made  to  obstnve 
the  intensity  at  sea,  both  by  horizontal  and  vertical  vibrations,  bnt 
Wilki's  was  never  able  to  satisfy  himself  with  the  results,  whatever 
others  may  have  done. 

"•  For  the  determination  of  the  Southern  Magnetic  Pole,  h<!  had 
variation  observations  from  35°  easterly  variation  to  59°  west,  between 
the  longitudes  of  1*7°  and  1()5°  east,  nearly  on  the  same  parallel  ol'  lati- 
tude: whit'li  will  give  numerous  convergent  lines  through  that  space  for 
its  determination  ;  the  greatest  dip  was  87°  80'.  The  sunnnit  of  Mouua 
L(»a,  thirteen  thousand  four  hundred  feet  above  the  level  of  the  sea, 
was  among  the  magnetii;  stations;  the  ])endulums  Avere  swung  at  six 
stations,  one  of  these  at  the  sunnnit  of  Mouna  Loa  and  another  ;it  its 
foot;  fnll  nu'teorologieal  journals  were  kept  during  the  whole  cruise  — 
the  hours  of  observation,  8  and  9  P.  M.,  and  8  and  9  A.  M. ;  the  tempera- 
ture at  the  masthead  taken  at  the  same  hours  ;  that  of  the  air  and  water 
every  hour  during  the  cruise,  at  sea  and  in  port;  when  in  port,  thcr- 
nionieters  were  sunk,  and  the  temperature  of  springs,  wells,  and  eaves 
taki'u  fur  tho  mean  temperature  of  the  climate. 


fi 


it  ions.  Tor 
ued  ii  sul- 
,t  sini  Tro- 
A'hilst  the 
o  observe 
tions.  hut 
whalever 

\,  hv.    had 
:,  betwi'cni 
llel  ol"  liili- 
s])iif('  for 
of  Molina 
)t'  the  sea, 
liuio-  111  six 
ther  at  its 
eriiisi;  — 
tempeva- 
aiid  water 
lywrt.  ther- 
and  eaves 


COLLECTIONS    AND    I'UIJLK^ATIONS. 


621 


"In  botany  about  ton  thousand  speeios  were  obtained,  and  from  three 
to  five  specimens  of  each,  all  brouj^ht  or  sent  home  in  a  dried  state. 
About  one  hundred  specimens  of  livituj  plants  were  brought  home  in 
cases;  among  them  several  East  India  fruits  and  other  plants  from  that 
region,  sup[)os(!d  to  be  rarely  found  in  European  conservatories. 

"In  the  Geological  and  Mineralogical  I)e[)artments,  under  Mr.  Dana, 
much  industry  and  research  were  (ixjiended;  about  eleven  hundred 
specieia  of  Crustacea  were  figured;  among  them  many  new  forms  illus- 
trative of  general  anatomy  and  i)hysiology.  In  a  word,  extensive  col- 
hMjtions  of  specimens  were  made  in  all  the  Department",  of  Natural 
History." 

THK    COLLECTIONS    AND   TUBLICATrONS. 

Hy  a  liberal  appropriation,  (longress  [)romptly  made  provisions  for 
the  arrangement  and  preservation  of  the  collections  referred  to,  placing 
tluMu  iirst  in  the  charge  of  the  Patent  Ollice,  and  annually  a[)pr()priat- 
iiig  for  their  care  the  sum  of  't/),()00. 

By  very  a])preciative  furtluir  appro[)riations,  the  publication  of  the 
Narrative  of  the  Expedition  was  secured  in  iive  quarto  volumes,  and 
these  were  at  different  dates  followed  by  the  issue  of  eleven  volumes, 
exhibiting  some  of  the  work  done  by  the  several  gentlemen  of  the  Scien- 
tilic  Cori)S.     Parts  of  the  work  were  unfortunately  destroyed  by  fire. 

The  volumes  were  published  and  distril)uted  under  special  Acts  or 
Resolutions  of  Congress,  primarily  to  the  Libraries  of  Foreign  Govern- 
iMciits  and  to  those  of  the  States  of  the  Union.  One  copy  was  donated 
t(t  the  Commander  of  the  Exi)edition,  and  one  to  ('aptain  Hudson;  the 
distribution  being  made  from  the  first,  in  accordance  oidy  with  the 
I\ei)orts  of  the  Joint  Library  (Committee,  in  whose  charge  the  volumes 
which  may  remain,  still  are.  The  list  of  all  which  have  been  published 
is  as  follows  ((Catalogue  of  Library  of  (congress,  1804)  : 

Vols.  I-.").     Narratives.    4t().     With  Atlas. 

Vol.  0.     I'^thnoj^raphy  and  riiilolo^y.     4to.     II.  Hale. 

Vol.  7.     Zoiiphytes.    4to.     Atliis  folio.     J.  1).  Dana. 

Vol.  8,     Mammaloj^y  jind  Ornilholoj^y.     4to.     Atlas  folio.     John  Cossin. 

Vol.  12.     Mollusoa  and  Shells.     4to.     Atlas  folio.     A.  A.  Gould. 

Vols.  i;5,  14.     Crustacea.     2  vols.     4to.     Atlas  folio      J.  J).  Dana. 


I!, 


Vi 


'li' 

i 


;!) 

H 

V! 


1)1 


622 


AMERICAN    EXPLORATIONS    IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


Vol.  la.     Botany.     (Part  I.)     Phanerogamia.    4to.     Atlas  folio.     Asa  Gray. 
Vol.  16.     Botany.     (Part  II.)      Cryptogamia,  Filices,    incliuling  Lycopodiacete 

and  ITydroplerides.     4to.     Atlas  folio.     W.  D.  Brackonridc-o. 
Vol.  20,     Ilerpetology.     4to.     Atlas  folio.     Prepared  under  the  superintendence 

of  Prof  S.  F.  Baird. 
Atlas  of  Charts  from  the  Survey's  of  the  Expedition.     2  vols.     Folio. 

A  popular  edition  of  the  Narrative  in  five  volumes,  including  also 
sonic  of  the  notes  of  the  scientific  work,  was  issued  in  Philadel])hia 
under  the  supervision  of  Lieutenant  Wilkes.  This  edition  can  still  he 
procured  at  the  book-stores. 


m  ' 


ill- 


'  !i) 


'  m\ 


NoTK  I.  —  In  his  larger  edition  of  the  Narrative,  Lieutenant  Wilkes  has  some 
notes  on  the  iee  formations  in  the  Antarctic,  possessing  interest  to  the  general  reader 
as  well  as  to  the  navigator.     He  says:  — 

"  Much  inquiry  ard  a  strong  desire  has  been  evinced  by  geologists,  to  ascertain 
the  extent  to  which  these  ice-islands  travel,  the  boulders  and  masses  of  eartii  tlicy 
transport,  and  the  direction  they  take. 

"  From  my  own  observations  and  the  information  I  have  collected,  there  appears 
a  great  difterence  in  the  movements  of  these  masses;  in  some  years,  great  numbers 
of  them  have  floated  north  from  the  Antarctic  circle  and  oven  at  times  obstructed  the 
navigation  about  the  capes.  The  year  1832  was  remarkable  in  this  respect;  manv 
vessels  bound  round  Cape  Horn  from  the  Pacilic,  were  obliged  to  put  back  to  Cliili. 
in  consequ(>nce  of  the  dangers  arising  from  Ice ;  while,  during  the  preceding  and 
following  years,  little  or  none  were  seen ;  this  would  lead  to  the  belief,  that  great 
changes  must  take  place  in  the  higher  laL'tudes,  or  the  j)revalence  of  .some  eanse  to 
detach  the  ice-islands  from  the  barrier  in  such  great  quantities  as  to  cover  ahuost 
the  entire  section  of  the  ocean  south  of  lat.  50^^  S.  Taking  the  early  part  of  tlio 
(southern)  spring,  as  the  time  of  separation,  we  are  enabled  to  make  some  estimate 
of  th(!  velocity  with  which  they  move;  many  masters  of  vessels  have  met  tlieiu, 
some  six  or  seven  iiundred  miles  from  the  barrier,  from  sixty  to  eighty  days  after 
this  period,  which  will  give  a  near  approximation  to  our  results  heretofore  stated. 

"The  season  of  1839-40  was  considered  as  an  oj)en  one,  from  the  large  masses 
of  ice  that  were  met  with  in  a  low  latitude,  by  vessels  that  arrived  from  Eiuoj)o  at 
Sydney ;  many  of  them  were  seen  as  far  north  as  lat.  42°  S. 

"  The  causes  that  prevail  to  detach  and  carry  them  north  are  difficult  to  assign. 
I  have  referred  to  the  most  probable  ones  that  would  detach  them  from  the  parent 
mass  in  their  formation.  Our  frequent  trials  of  currents,  as  has  been  stated,  did  not 
give  us  the  assurance  that  any  existed;  but  thei-e  i."  little  doubt  in  my  mind  tiiattlicy 
do  prevail.  I  should  not,  however,  look  to  a  sui'face  current  as  being  the  motivn 
power  that  carries  these  immense  masses  at  the  rate  they  move;   comparative! 


for  vv 
eomp 
becon 


tec 


that  i; 


is 


NOTES. 


523 


iding  iilso 
iladel\»irui, 
an  still  l)e 


kes  has  some 
fenenil  rciuU'v 

;,  to  :iscerl;iiu 
i  of  earth  they 

,  there  appears 

jrreat  numliers 

ohstrueteil  iho 

respect;  many 

back  to  Chili,     | 

preceihiiji  ami     | 

Llief,  that  great     | 

some  cause  to     ? 

o  cover  ahuost     ; 
,vly  pu't  of  the     : 

some  estimate 
lave  met  them, 

jglity  tlays  after 

tofore  stated. 

[lo  hirge  masses 

[from  Europe  at 

Vicult  to  assign. 

Ifrom  the  parent 
stated,  iVul  not 
mind  that  llu\v 

leing  the  moiiv^ 
comparatively 


speaking,  theh*  great  bulk  is  below  the  intluence  of  any  surface  current,  and  the 
rapid  drift  of  these  masses  by  winds  is  still  more  iiiiprobaljle ;  therefore  I  conceive 
v\.  must  look  to  an  under  current  as  their  great  propeller.  In  one  trial  of  the  ileep- 
sea  thermometer,  we  found  the  temperature  beneath  four  degrees  warmer  than  the 
surface.  Oft"  Cape  Horn,  the  under  temperature  was  found  as  colil  as  among  the  ice 
itself;  repeated  experiments  have  shown  the  same  to  occur  in  the  Arctic  regions. 
From  this  I  would  draw  the  conclusion  that  changes  are  going  on,  and  it  ap{)ears  to 
me  to  bo  very  reasimable  to  suppose,  that  at  periods,  currents  to  anil  from  the  Poles 
should  at  times  exist  ;  it  is  true,  we  most  generally  lind  the  latter  to  prevail,  as  far 
as  our  knowledge  of  facts  extends,  but  we  have  not  sulHcient  information  to  decide 
that  there  is  not  a  reflow  toward  the  Pole;  the  vei-y  circumstance  of  the  current  set- 
ting from  the  Idgiier  latitudes,  would  seem  a  good  argument  that  there  mnst  be  some 
eoimter-current  to  maintain  the  level  of  the  waters.  Tiiese  masses,  then,  are  most 
probably  carried  away  in  the  seasons  when  the  polar  streams  are  th(!  strongest,  and 
are  borne  along  by  them  at  the  velocity  with  which  they  move ;  that  these  do  not 
occur  annually  may  be  inferred  from  f\.°,  absence  of  ice-i.slands  in  the  lower  latitudes; 
and  that  it  is  not  from  the  scarcity  of  them,  those  who  shared  the  dangers  of  the 
Antarctic  cruise,  will,  I  have  little  doubt,  be  ready  to  testify;  for,  altiiough  great 
numbers  of  them  studded  the  ocean  that  year,  yet  the  narrative  shows  that  vast 
numbers  vrere  left. 

'*  The  specific  gravity  of  the  ice  varies  very  much  as  might  naturally  be  expected ; 
for  while  some  of  it  is  porous  and  of  a  snowy  texture  other  islands  are  in  great  piirt 
composed  of  a  compact,  blue-liinty  ice.  This  difference  is  occasioned  l)y  the  latter 
becoming  saturated  with  water,  which  afterward  freezes. 

"On  the  ice  there  was  usually  a  covering  of  about  two  feet  of  snow,  which  in 
j)laces  had  upon  it  a  crust  of  ice  not  strong  enougli  to  bear  the  weight  of  a  man. 
Those  ice-islands,  which  after  having  Ixicn  once  seen,  were  again  passed  through 
innnediately  after  a  gale,  were  observed  to  be  changed  in  ap[)earance;  but  though 
for  forty-eight  hours  a  severe  storm  had  been  expeiuenced,  they  had  not  undergone 
so  great  a  transformation  as  not  to  be  recognized.  They  also  appeared  to  have 
shifted  theii  position  with  regard  to  one  another,  their  former  bias  and  tendings 
being  broken  up. 

"  During  our  stay  on  tiie  icy  coast,  I  saw  nothing  of  what  is  termed  pack-ice,  — 
that  is  pieces  forced  one  upon  the  other  by  the  action  of  the  sea  or  currents." 

Note  II.  —  The  English  Admiralty  charts  show  that  all  along  the  southern  part 
of  the  South  Atlantic  Ocean  ice  is  found,  brought  by  the  Antarctic  polar  currents  and 
reaching  different  parallels,  according  to  the  meridian  on  which  it  happens  to  float, 
as  also  according  to  the  season  of  the  year.  Diu'ing  the  southern  summ  r,  from 
January  to  March,  the  icebergs  reach  the  highest  points  and  sometimes  are  found 
nearly  up  to  40"'  S.,  between  20°  and  25'-'  W. 

Admiralty  Ciiart  No.  1,241,  issued  June  50, 1874,  is  an  Ice  Ghaut  of  the  Southern 
Hemisphere,  compi'-^'^  uom  the  voyages  of  Cook,  Bellingshausen,  Weddell,  Foster, 
Biscoe,  Balleny,  D'Urville,  Wilkes,  and  Ross,  the  chief  explorers  from  the  years  1772 


>    -1 

i 

Y 


','1' 


i 


I  9 


524 


AMKllIOAN    KXlMiOKATIONS    IN    THK    ICE   ZONES. 


to  1811,  .111(1  from  othor  sources  as  late  as  18().'>.  Tho  chart  has  boon  issued  because 
of  the  atloption  by  modern  navij^ators  of  routes  approac  hinj?  more  or  less  to  a  "-reat, 
circle  course,  shortening  the  distance  to  and  from  Australia.  Tho  dangers  to  l)c 
apprcluMided  froni  contact  with  the  ico  in  these  high  latitudes  is  stated  to  be  fm- 
greater  tiian  has  been  generall}-  supposed.  Tho  vast  disrupUul  masses  drifted  by  tjic 
iiillueiice  of  winds  and  currents  to  lower  latitudes  have  seriously  end)arrasscd,  de- 
layed, and  imperilled  navigation.  "T'he  gi-eatest  numb(;r  of  ic(!bergs  bitliciid 
.lighted,"  says  (^'ommoilore  Kvans,  U.  N.,  the  compiler  of  the  Chart,  "  in  the  tracks 
of  ordinary  navigators,  have  lieen  in  thi!  months  of  November,  l)eeemb(>r,  and  .Jan- 
uary, and  the  least  in  .Fune  and  .fuly,  tho  proportions  of  (hose  seen  in  these  moiiUis 
to  the  number  sciMi  in  I)eeemi)er  being  as  1  to  l.'l."  The  French  Sailing  Dirce- 
tions  of  I/ibrosse,  translated  by  Lieutenant  J.  W.  ISIiller  for  U.  S.  llyilrograpiiic  Otlicc, 
as  well  as  the  chart  just  referred  to,  give  the  latitude-limits  of  floating  icewhicii  from 
April  1  to  October  1  is  rarely  to  be  found  north  of  lat.  ,'>()'  S.,  or  evtm  there  cxccpi 
between  the  meridians  1  18  "  and  O.'V-  W.  From  October  1,  stray  bergs  sometimes, 
though  rirely.  drift  as  far  north  as  10  \  Tiiey  are  always  to  b(>  feared  diu-iiig  tiic 
soutiiern  winter,  during  wiiich  they  c<mstitute  :i  real  danger,  and  the  principal  dil'- 
licnity  in  making  a  passage  from  Australia,  Ntnv  Caledotii.a,  New  Zealand,  or  'I'aliili, 
to  Cape  Horn.  'IMiey  art",  however,  most  numerous  in  the  southcu'n  sumuK-r  wiicn 
ilie  nights  are  short. 

fFan.  1,  18()7,  Captain  (ru»'>rin  of  tho  "St.  Paul,"  sailing  between  4()"  and  17 
south,  and  1  and  IL'  east,  was  completely  siUToimded  by  icebergs,  the  principal  of 
which  were  from  one  hundred  and  sixty  to  three  lumdred  an^l  thirty  feet  iiioli. 
Xotlntii/  Jiiid  annoiiuccd  tlteir  approach,  the  thermometer  showing  no  sudden  change  in 
their  vicinity,  and  the  only  pecidiarities  noticed  being  thick  fogs,  the  absence  of 
birds,  an  miusually  smooth  sea,  and  some  old  pieces  of  wreck.  A  good  ice  chart  will 
be  found  in  Steiler's  Atlas. 


Note  TII.  — The  genenil  reader  will  not  have  failed  to  notice  the  dillereiicc'  in 
the  ice  formatit)n,  found  in  the  Antarctic  Ocean  from  thos(^  in  the  Arctic,  and  tixi  dif- 
ference between  those  of  the  (Jreen^and  Seas  and  those  north  of  Hering  Straits.  Hergs 
in  the  Antarctii*  h.ave  been  sightcil  whose  height  was  r(^corded  by  rcsp()nsil)l(^  cap- 
tains as  from  four  hundred  and  twenty  to  nine  hundred  antl  sixty  feet.  TIk^  cxtnii 
of  the  licMs  tilso  exceeds  that  of  the  bergs  in  thenortii;  the  largest  Held  reported 
according  to  Towson  (endorsed  by  Fitzroy),  being  sixty  miles  by  forty.  It  was 
passed  by  twenty-oiK?  ships  during  the  months  of  Januarj'  to  May.  No  icebergs  ex- 
ceeding iialf  the  height  here  named  have  been  seen  in  the  Arctic,  nor  have*  masses 
of  ice-lields  of  such  extent  been  met  with  in  the  sea  north  offering  Strait. 

"  In  another  respect  tlie  .Vntnrctie  bi'rgs  exceed  those  of  the  North.  The  colorinir 
of  the  crevasses,  caves,  and  hollows  of  the  icebergs  of  the  Antarctic  regions  is  of  tlie 
(Irepesf  blue,  a  more  powerful  color  than  that  seen  on  the  ice  of  the  Swiss  g]aci(>rs 
In  the  case  of  the  bergs  with  all  their  sides  exposed,  no  doubt  a  greater  amount  of 
light  is  able  to  ))enetrate  than  in  glaciers  where  the  light  usually  enters  only  at  llie 
top."  —  \'o}jaije  of  the  "  ChaUetujer.'''' 


40"  and  17 
!  princiiiiil  of 
,y  ft'l'l  liin-li. 
i!n  fhaiij;-!'  in 
:il)S('ii('i'  of 
ce  chart  will 


(litVtinMU'C!  in 
,  and  \ho  (lif- 
rails.  lU'r<i;s 
lonsihli*  v:\])- 
'Vho  Client 
iold  rciiiorU'd 
irty.  It.  WHS 
icebergs  cx- 
hav(!  niiissos 
\it. 

Tho  coloring: 
ions  is  (if  till' 
iviss  <);l;icii'rs 
,er  amount  o( 
•s  only  lit  tlu' 


CHAPTER   XriT. 

STTMMAllY  OV  THE    KXPEDITIONS,    BENEFICIAL  RESULTS. 

THE  AMKUKJAN  AIU!TI(!  EXI'EDITfONS. —  IlKillKST  I'OINTS  JIEACFIEI). — 
VAIATEOF  AUOTIC  EXI'LOIlATIONK  ENDORSED  MY  WEYPUEOFIT,  MAUllY, 
IIENKV,  IIAIMIE,  HAUltOVV,  AND  OSHOKN. —  METEOROLOOICAL  STA- 
TIONS IN  THE  ICE  ZONES. — TIIKIR  RURl'OSE  DISTINCT  FROM  THE  POLAR 
1  ROHEEM.  —  LIEUTENANT    WEYI'RECHT's    I'IMU'OSITION.  —  STATIONS 

under  the  international  commission  rei'ommended  ry  i'ro- 
kessor  henry.  —  preliminary  voyaoe  ok  the  "florence." — 
Sherman's  and  kcmlien's  reports.  —  skjnal  service  station 

AT    lady    KRANKi.lN    RAY.  —  UNSUCCESSFUL    ATTEMPTS    FOR  RELIEF. 

—  SMiNAL  SERVICE  STATION  NEAR  POINT  BARROW.  —  PliELIMINARY 
REPORTS. — (!EO(JRAPHICAL  DISCOVERY.  —  BENEFITS  TO  THE  WHALE 
FISHERIES. — SMALL   Nl'MBER   OF    LIVES    LOST    IN  THE  EXPEDITIONS. 

—  FIRTIir.R    EXPLORATIONS. 

IN  tlic  first  ( 'liii[)t»n-  of  this  Voluino  it  was  said  tliat  althoiigli  tin;  (tiii^i- 
iial  <»l)je(;ts  of  the  Ex])lorations  which  would  be  diHcussed  had  not 
been  secured,  their  incidental  results  liave  more  than  coni[)ensated 
for  all  expenditun;  of  thought  and  money,  and  all  of  exj)osure  and  disa[)- 
|)ointment  exj)erienced  by  the  explorers.  Tiie  record  of  their  labors 
which  has  now  been  made,  must  conlirm,  it  is  believed,  this  im[)artial 
judgment,  which  certainly  is  that  ex])ressed  by  some  of  the  ablest  and 
most  trustworthy  in  scientitic  circles,  both  at  home  and  abroad.  Rtjfer- 
ring  to  what  has  been  thus  far  accomplished  in  the  northern  zone.  Lieu- 
tenant Maury  has  said:  "Voyages  of  discovery,  with  their  fascinations 
and  their  charms,  have  led  many  a  noble  chami)ion  both  into  the  torrid 
and  frigid  zones  ;  and  notwithstanding  the  liardships,  sufterings,  and 
disasters  to  which  northern  parties  have  found  themselves  exposed, 
seafaring  men,  as  science  has  advanced,  have  looked  with  deeper  and 
(leej)er  longings  toward  the  mystic  circles  of  the  polar  regions.  There, 
i(!ebergs  are  franuMl  and  glaciers  launched.  There  the  tides  have  their 
cradle  :  the  whales,  their  nursery.    There  the  winds  complete  their  cir- 


|i 


IS 


HI 


526 


AMERICAN   EXPLOIIATIONS    IN   THE  ICE   ZONES. 


»',r|3- 


I! 


'  '•  1, 


M'l 


(  .■  ' 


ii'. 


mi  i 


H 


in 


cuits  and  the  currents  of  the  sea  their  round  in  the  wonderful  system 
of  oceanic  circuUition.  There  the  Aurora  Borealis  is  lighted  ui)  and 
the  trend)liiig  needle  brouglit  to  rest,  and  there,  too,  in  the  mazes  of 
that  mystic  circle,  terrestrial  forces  of  occult  power  and  of  vast  intlu- 
ence  upon  the  well-being  of  man  are  continually  at  play.  Willijn  the 
Arctic  circle  is  the  i)ole  of  the  winds  and  the  poles  of  the  cold,  the  pole 
of  the  earth  and  of  the  nuignet.  It  is  a  circle  of  mysteries  ;  and  the 
desire  to  enter  it,  to  explore  its  untrodden  wastes  and  secret  chambers, 
and  to  study  its  physicd  aspects,  has  grown  into  a  longi)>o.  NoMo 
daring  has  m-  ie  Ar  -  ic  >  and  wa+ers  cla'sic  ground.  It  is  no  feverish 
excitei  ient  nt;  vniu  nnbition  that  leads  man  there.  It  is  a  higher  feel- 
ing, a  holiei  inoin  :•,  -a  desire  to  look  into  tlie  works  of  creation,  to 
comprehend  the  economv  ^^  our  planet,  and  to  grow  wiser  and  better 
by  the  knowledge." 

Yet  higher  authorities  sustain  the  value  of  the  explorations,  as  well 
as  the  interest  inseparable  from  them.  Those  of  Professors  Hache  and 
Henry  only  need  be  cited.  Henry,  in  his  Report  as  Secretary  of  the 
Smithsonian  for  the  year  1858,  quotes  and  accords  with  the  judgment 
of  Professor  Bache,  as  expressed  before  the  American  Association, 
when  lie  says  that  some  of  the  most  important  contributions  to  our 
knowledge  of  natural  history  and  physical  phenomena  were  made  ny 
Doctor  Kane,  on  the  second  Grinnell  Expedition  ;  and  this  judgment 
of  both  the  learned  professors  is  expressed  in  terms  as  full  and  unquali- 
fied upon  the  explorations  subsequently  made  by  Doctor  Hayes. 

For  these  exjjeditions  to  the  Arctic  Ocean,  for  those  of  Lieutenant 
Wilkes  in  the  Antarctic,  and  indeed  for  every  expedition  sent  forth 
under  the  auspices  of  the  Government,  special  instructions  have  been 
successively  laid  down  by  their  respective  authorities,  for  the  investiga- 
tion of  such  questions  as  the  facilities  of  their  journeyings  bj"-  sea  or 
by  land  should  offer  for  the  advancement  of  knowledge.  The  obser- 
vations of  natural  jdienomena  in  newly-explored  regions,  and  the  col- 
lections of  typical  objects,  were  to  be  and  have  been,  continuously  and 
increasingly,  matters  commanding  the  labors  and  time  of  the  numerous 
corps  of  scientists  selected  from  the  Army  and  Navy  and  from 
civil  life. 


I 


1 1' 


C  ', 


AMERICAN    EXPEDITIONS. 


627 


To  furnish  a  reply  to  many  inquiries  on  the  part  of  those  interested 
in  Arctic  explorations,  the  dates  of  the  publication  of  the  chief  volumes 
narrating  these  are  given  In  the  Appendix.* 

*  The  Table  bolow  presents  a  list  of  the  American  Arctic  Expeditions  which  have  ex- 
ploud  tho  nort))<,asl  and  northwest  coast  of  America,  via  liatlin's  Bay  and  Bering  Straitb. 

Tahle. 


Year. 


1850-52 
1853-55 
1855  . 

1855  . 

1800  . 
1860  . 
186-1-69 
1871-73 

1873  . 

1878  . 

1879-81 

1880  . 

1881  . 

1881  . 


1881 


Ship. 


Commander. 


Position  Reached, 


Advaiice 
Rescue 

Advance 

Release 
Arctic  . 


Vincennes    ,    .     . 

George  Henry   .     . 

The  United  States, 

Monticello    .     .     . 

U.  S.  S.  Polaris  .     . 

U.  S.  S.  Tigress      . 

Juniata    .     .     .     . 
Land    Expedition, 

Jeannette     .    .    . 

U.  S.  S.  Corwin  (R. 
steamer)    .     .     . 

Do.  (Second  crjiise) 


Lieut.    DelTaven,    U.  S.  N 
Lieut.  Griffin,  U.  S.  X.  .^ 

Dr.  E.  K.  Kane     .     .     .' 

Lieut.  Hartstene,  U.  S.  N. 
Lieut.  Simms,  U.  S.  N.  . 


Com.  John  Rodgers 

Charles  F.  Hall 

I.  I.  Hayes    .     . 

Charles  F.  Hall 

Charles  F.  Hall 

Com.  J.  A.  Greer 

Com.  D.  L.  Braine    .     . 
Lieut.  Schwatka,  U.  S.  N. 

Lieut.  De  Long .... 

Capt.  C.  L.  Hooper   .    . 
Capt.  C.  L.  Hooper 


U.  S.  S.  Rodgers    .  '  Lieut.  R.  M.  Berry    .    .    . 


U.S.S.A-'iance 


In  the  Eastern  Hemisphere, 
Cspt.G.  H.  Wadleigh     . 


(  Bcechey  Island,  lat.  75°  24' 
\      N. 

By  sledges,  lat  80^=  56'  N. 
(  Relief  of  Kane,  lat.  78°  32' 
\      N. 
(  T^    -"Th  Bering  Straits,  lat. 

Frobi       •  Bay,  lat.  62°  N. 

i.    sieci je,  lat.  81°  35'  N. 

/liii    William's  Land. 

I>,  .ihi-.,  lat.  82°16'N. 

Tessiussak,  Greenland. 

'^.r-.jsiussak,  Greenland. 
(  iving  William's  Land. 

North  of  Bering  Straits, 
crushed  June  13. 1881,  lat. 
77°  14'  57"  N.,  long.  154° 
58' 45"  E. 

Relief  of  the  Jeannette,  lat. 
70°  55'N.,  long,  173°  .OO'  E. 

Wrangell  Land. 

Relief  of  Jeannette.  lat.  73° 
28' N., long.  179° 05' 02"  E. 
(Burned  in  St.  Lawrence 
Bay,  Nov.  30,  1881.) 


(  Lat.  80°  10' N.,  long.  11°  22' 


\ 


E.,  Relief  of  Jeannette. 


Closing  the  list  of  those  which  have  gone  out  under  the  Government  of  the  United 
States,  are  the  Arctic  Meteorological  Stations  for  the  United  States  Signal  Service  ; 

Under  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Greely,  U.  S.  A.,  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  lat.  81°  44'  N.,  Ion. 
ti4°  30'  W  ; 

Undei-  Lieutenant  P.  H.  Ray,  U.  S.  A.,  Point  Barrow,  Alaska,  lat.  71°  18'  N.,  Ion.  156° 
24' W. 

These  Expeditions  had  for  their  primary  objects  meteorological  observations  in  con- 
nection with  the  other  stations  of  the  International  Polar  Commission. 


f!  !^ 


628 


AAIERICAN  EXPLORATIONS  IN  THE  ICE  ZONES. 


]!:i::|^ 


THE  COLLECTIONS   OF   ILLUSTRATIVE  SPECIMENS. 

Reference  lias  already  been  made,  in  the  narrative  of  the  Wilkes 
Expedition,  to  the  extent  and  value  of  the  collections  brought  home 
by  that  expedition,  and  accredited  by  Professor  Henry  as  the  basis  ol' 
the  present  extensive  National  Museum  at  Washington. 

Of  the  Bering  Straits  Expedition  under  Lieutenant  (late  Admiral ) 
Rodgers,  the  Smithsonian  Report  of  185o  says:  "The  natural  history  re- 
sults were  of  great  magnitude,  and  embraced  many  new  and  rare  species; 
the  collections  made  by  tlie  naturalists,  Stimpson  and  Wright,  b(;iii(>- 
made  lirst  under  Commander  Ringgold  in  the  South  Pacific  and  China 
Seas  and  afterward  largely  increased  by  those  secured  around  Japiin, 
Kamtchatka,  in  the  Straits,  and  on  the  California  coast."  "  The  wholo 
of  a  very  rich  collection  of  invertebrates,  made  in  the  Arctic  Seas,"  says 
Professor  Henry,  "was  dredged  from  the  '  \'^incennes,'  under  the  iniuie- 
diate  sujjerintendence  of  Captain  Rodgers  himself,  while  the  Scientiiic 
Corps  were  engaged  in  anotlier  portion  of  Bering  Straits."  To  these 
valued  additions  were  also  made  by  the  Japan  Expedition,  under  Com- 
modore Perry ;  by  Captain  Page,  in  his  exploration  and  survey  of  the 
La  Plata  and  its  tributaries ;  by  Lieutenants  Herndon  and  Gibbon, 
from  their  work  on  the  Amazon ;  by  Captain  Lynch,  from  the  Dead 
Sea ;  and  by  C.  F.  Hall,  fiom  each  of  the  three  expeditions  that  have 
been  narrated  in  this  volume.  It  would  indeed  be  impossible  to 
accredit  here,  with  any  justice,  the  labors  of  the  very  numerous  explo- 
rations which  have  been  made  by  our  own  countrymen  within  the 
progressive  development  of  the  great  West,  in  the  northern  section  of 
the  continent,  outside  of  the  territory  of  the  United  States,  and  in 
the  waters  of  the  oceans  and  their  indentations.  The  catalogues  of 
the  Institution  founded  at  Washington  by  the  noble  liberalit}'  of  the 
London  philanthropist  must  be  consulted ;  in  its  Report  for  1857  will 
be  found  a  list  of  more  than  fifty  of  such  exi:)editions,  selections  from 
the  specimen  contributions  of  which  formed  a  part  of  the  Exhibition 
in  the  Government  Museum  placed  at  the  United  States  Centennial, 
Phihulcli)]ua,  in  1876 ;  but  the  exhibition,  as  well  as  the  list  now 
referred  to,  it  is  well  understood,  was  but  representative  of  the  work 
accomplished  by  Army,  Navy,  and  civil  scientists. 


iiji 


BAKUOWS   AND   OSBOUN'S  JUDGMENTS. 


o25> 


So  far  from  any  forgetfulness,  on  the  part  of  the  explorers  or  their 
supporters,  of  higher  results  to  be  hoped  for  than  the  extension  of 
geograpliical  discovery,  valuable  as  this  itself  is,  Arctic  history  incon- 
testably  shows  a  continuous  line  of  expectancy  of  scientific  results  in 
other  branches.  There  has  been  a  general  accord  with  the  sentiments 
of  Sir  .John  Harrow,  181H,  that  if  these  voyages  were  to  bo  pros(;cuted 
for  the  sake  only  of  making  the  passage  to  China,  their  utility  might 
fairly  be  questioned.  "  But,"  says  Barrow,  "when  tlie  acipiisition  of 
knowledge  is  the  groundwork  of  all  the  instructions  under  which  they 
are  sent  forth,  the  commanding  ollicer  is  directed  to  cause  constant 
observations  to  be  made  for  the  advancement  of  every  branch  of  sci- 
ence—  astronomy,  navigation,  hydrography,  meteorology,  including 
electricity  and  magnetism,  and  to  make  collections  of  subjects  of  nat- 
ural history —  in  short,  to  lose  no  opportunity  of  act^uiring  new  and 
important  infornu'i/ion  and  discovery  ;  and  when  it  is  considered  that 
these  voyages  gi\  e  employment  to  officers  and  men,  in  time  of  peace, 
and  produce  officei.*  and  men  not  to  be  surpassed,  perhaps  not  ecjualled, 
in  any  other  branch  of  the  service,  the  question,  Cui  bono?  is  readily 
answered,  in  the  words  of  Queen  Elizabeth's  minister,  'Knowledge  is 
power.' " 

To  this  judgment  of  Barrow,  expressed  at  the  revival  of  Arctic 
Exploration,  may  be  added  that  of  the  late  Adnural  Hherard  ()s])orn, 
R.N,,  confirming  what  our  own  Henry,  and  Bache,  and  Maury  had  said. 

"Those,"  said  Osborn,  "who  assert  that  our  labors  and  researches 
have  merely  added  so  many  miles  of  unprolitable  coast  .line  to  our 
ciiarts,  had  better  compare  our  knowledge  of  Arctic  phenomena  to-day 
with  the  theories  enunciated  by  men  of  learning  and  repute  a  century 
ago.  They  should  confront  our  knowledge  of  1874  with  that  of  1800 
u{)()n  the  natural  history,  meteorology,  climate,  and  winds  of  the 
Arctic  regions.  They  must  remember  it  was  there  we  obtained  the 
chie,  still  unravelled,  to  the  laws  of  those  mysterious  currents  which 
lluw  through  the  wastes  of  the  ocean  like  two  mighty  riven, —  the 
Gulf  Stream  and  the  Ice  Stream  ;  must  remendjer  that  it  was  there  — 
ill  Boothia  —  that  the  two  Kosses  first  reached  the  Magnetic  Pole,  that 
mysterious  point  round  which  revolves  the  mariner's  compass  over  one 


\? 


!!:: 


|;;| 


Mi) 


AMKKirAN    t-'.XlM.OUATlnNS    IN    THK    ICV.   ZONKS. 


lialf  o(  llic  ikhIIkmii  ln'iiiisplicic  ;  jiimI  let  lln'  world  siiy  wlirllicr  iln 
iiiMss  (tf  ohsciviititiiis  cdllct  (rd  by  tiiir  ('X|tlunMH  on  all  si<U's  ol'  that 
Ma^MM'tic  I'oli'  have  added  nolliinj;  li»  Mn'  kiiuwlcd^c  ol"  (he  \;\\\s  n|' 
inajj^iM'tic  dfclinatiim  and  dip.  I'lmy  .should  n'mcinlici'  liow,  a  fru 
years  ai;o,  il  was  ^'iiivi'ly  d«'i)al(«d  wiiclin'r  man  could  exist  (luoiiuli  ||i,. 
ri};ors  and  darkness  of  a  Polii'  winter,  and  liow  \\v  only  have  leceniU 
diseoNcred  that  I'lovidem-e  has  |ieo|iled  that  rejjjion  to  the  exliciut. 
latitude  yet  n-aehed,  and  that  the  animals  on  which  they  snhsisl  me 
there  likewise,  in  winter  as  well  as  in  summer.  All  this,  and  iuik  h 
moie,  should  he  home  in  mind  l»y  those  cynics  who  wctidd  have  Mm 
hclicve  we  have  loilco  in  v;iin  :  and  I  ho'd,  with  the  late  Admiral 
neechey,  'I  hat  every  voya_i;'e  to  the  north  has  tended  to  remove  the  veil 
vi'  obscurity  which  |)i'eviously  hunij  ovei'  the  ^eo}^ra|»hy  and  all  the 
jtheuomena  of  the  Arctic  rei,nons.  iiel'ore  those  voya_i;'cs  all  was  dark- 
ness and  terror,  all  lieyond  the  North  ('a|)e  a  blaidv ;  but,  since  then, 
oai'h  successive  voyauje  has  swept  siway  sonu;  ji[loomy  suiuMstilion,  has 
broujiht  to  lii^ht  siune  new  phemuuenou,  and  temled  L<»  (he  advance- 
ment  ol'  hunuiii   knowledge.'  " 


i.' 


;.; ; 


iUr 


'J'V 


mi:tk(M!(U-(>(;i(\\i-  stapions  in  the  wk  zoniw. 

In  the  prostH'ution  of  just  such  rcsoarehos  the  uuUiM)roloj;ical  sta- 
tions establisluMl  at  the  instance  of  the  Iutt>rnational  Connnission  of 
1SS1  have  been  planted  in  the  Arctic  and  Antarctic  Zones.  Ai;''  here 
it  may  In-  vv«Jl  to  iuv(dce  from  all  the  exercise  of  a  clear  anc!  just  dis- 
eriminatiou  between  these  objects  and  that  less  W(uthy,  and  at  ])reseiit 
unt'avtucd  object,  the  problem  of  the  Pole;  or,  n)ore  strictly  speaking-, 
between  these  scientitic  expeditions,  and  the  voyages  having  for  tlu'ir 
chief  or  sole  i)ur[)ose  to  reach  the  00th  degree.  For  no  advocacy  ol' 
that  purpose  has  the  jireseni  volume  been  attempted.  Its  chief  aim 
has  been  to  make  a  useful  record  of  what  American  enterprise  has 
secured  toward  the  elimination  of  errors  in  the  Polar  problem;  but 
more  especially  for  a  record  of  what  of  scientitic  value  has  been 
secured,  and  will  continue  to  be  secured  by  further  Arctic  and 
Antarctic  exploration.      In  this  connection,  the  labors  of  the  mctco- 


$■■4 


HTATIONM    ItOlINIl  TIIK   (il.OHK. 


nai 


rolo^inil  <)tiH(M'V(<rH  in  tlic  iro  /oiKts  will  olitiiiii  u  spticial  pliiiK-  in 
liistury.  TIk!  lirst  <  4  in  tliiH  lii.stoiy  is  nl  \nvHri\\,  lid'or*;  ns  in  tlio 
wtiik   (if 


TIIK    INTKltNATlONAI,   CONOUKHH. 

'^  In    Scplcnihcr,    lH7r>,   tin'    \n{v    ('ml    Wcyiiriiclit,  one;    of   llu;   coin- 

niiindcrH  of  Mic  Arctic!  I'^xpcdilinn,  in  lin;  ill-liitcd  "• 'rcj^c^tliolT,"  unllior 
(tl'  its  Niiri'iitivc,  iitid  (liscuvrrci'  (»!"  h'riin/  .InHcl"  liiind,  lirHt  propoHcd 
tliut  till*  iiidionH  1)1'  the  world  slionid  unih^  in  oik;  iinirotin  syHtcni  of 
HiMiulliin(*ons  niii^Mictii;  and  nuMcMtrido^iituI  oliHciViitionH,  at  as  many 
slalions  as  |»ossil)l(',  in  both  IIk!  Arctic,  and  Antarctic  rc;^ions.  Tlio 
rcsnils  lo  li(>  sccnrcd  in  those  /ones  wonld  Im;  coni|iaral)l(!  with,  and 
Mtili/c(l  in  connection  with  thos(!  deprived  from  ol)S(;rvations  in  tho 
tcnipj'ralc  /ones,  and  would  larp'ly  advuncie  the  domain  of  thi!  sciences. 
The  details  of  tlu!  |»lan,  elalK.ratcMl  in  1.S7I>,  ISHO,  and  IHSI,  rcissdtod 
in  tluM'stahlishment  of  an  OlVnual  Pohir  ('ommission,  all  tla;  nKMnhers 
of  which  were  clotlnMl  with  aiithoi'ity  by  their  r(fs|)ectiv(!  }r(jv(!rnmentH. 
I'nder  their  iins[)ic('S  tlu^  I'ollowin}^  stations  wert;  recommended  to  be 
occupied  by  observers  from  tho  respective  countri(;s  named. 


51' 


!('' 


(>i:'ical  sta- 
nussion  of 
Ai;''   here 
[\  just   dis- 
at  ])resi'nt 
[•  sj)eakiiii;', 
[V  for  tlieir 
Ivocacy  of 
chief  aim 
rprise  Ims 
ibleiu;  hut 
lias   been 
rctic   and 
Ithe  metoo- 


STATIONS    liKCOMMKNDKI)    HY    TIIK    I'OLAIl   COMMISSION. 

hy  the  United  Stiiten^  I^ady  Fraid<lin  liay,  (irinnell  Land,  N.  hit., 
Si"  44',  W.  long.,  ()4"  '{<)',  and  Ooglaamie,  near  Point  liarrow,  Alaska, 
N.  71"  18'  lat.,  long.  W.  15(1"  24';  by  Auxfrn-llunf/ar)/,  Jan  Mayen,  hit. 
N.7(r  r)8',  long.  8"8ry,  and  I'ola  lat.  N.  70"  02',  E.  long.  18°  f)!';  by 
DaniKirk,  Godthaab,  lat.  (14"  10,  W.  long.  51°  45';  by  Finland,  Soudan 
Kyla,  lat.  N.  ()7°  24',  K.  long.  2(1°  JW;  by  Frrmro.,  Cape  Horn,  lat.  S. 
Tti)  00',  \\  long.  07°  00' ;  by  Garmany,  South  (iecn'gia  Island,  S.  lat. 
54"  nO',  W.  l./ng.  38°  00',  and  Kingawa,  N.  lat.  07°  30',  W.  long.  07'^  30'. 
(Hogarth  Inl(  <,  Cumberland  Sound);  by  (rn-at  lirifain  aud  (■nnada. 
Fort  Kae  or  Fort  Simjjson,  on  Great  Slave  Lake,  N  lat.  02°  ?M\  W. 
long.  115"^  40',  and  Toronto,  where  observations  will  be  made  b}'  Can- 
ada, N.  lat.  43°  39',  W.  long.  79°  23';  by  Holland.  Dic^.soTi  Haven,  o; 
Port  Dickson,  N.  lat.  73°  30',  E.  long.  82°  00';  by  Italy,  Punta  Arenas, 


M 

i 

nil 

\ 

! 

'U 

532 


A>n<]KICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


I  (i 


Patagduia,  S.  lat.  53^^  10',  W.  long.  70^'  55' ;  by  liussia,  Nova  Zeinbla 
(Karinakule  Bay),  N.  hit.  72°  30',  E.  long.  53"  00',  and  Mouth  of  the 
Lena,  N.  lat.  73^  00',  E.  long.  124"  40' ;  by  Sweden,  Spitzbergen,  N.  hit. 
79^53',  E.  long.  IC."  00';  by  the  Aryentine  liepiddic,  steps  have  been 
taken  to  establish  a  magnetic  observatory  at  Cordoba,  S.  hit.  31"  30' 
VV.,  long.  (14^  30'.  A  number  of  "Auxiliary  Stations"  wt  re  also 
proposetl. 

\n  addition  to  tlie  two  stations  named  above  for  Russia,  the  (Jeo- 
graphical  Society  of  that  country  pro]V)sed  to  maintain  seven  s])eeial 
meteorological  stations  in  Si'-nia.  The  United  States  Signal  Ollicer 
reported  in  1882  that  the  following  named  countries  were  co-oi)eratint>- 
with  the  I'nited  States  in  the  work  of  Polar  research:  Germany  at 
Pendulum  Island,  North  Atlantic,  and  South  Georgian  Island,  in  tlic 
Antarctic  Ocean ;  England  and  Canada,  Russia,  Austria,  France.  Hol- 
land, Finland,  Norway  and  Sweden,  and  Dennuirk. 

Th.e  Pulletin  of  the   Geographical  Society  of  Paris  (^Premier  Trl- 
iju'sfrc,   1883),   reviews  the   proposed  plan   of  work,  and   locates  the 
observers  as  follows :  The  United  States,  at  the  points  before  named; 
England,  at   Fort  Rae,   Great  Slave   Lake,  02"  30'   N. ;  Germany,  on 
Cumberland  Gulf,  (SO"' 30' N. ;  Denmark,  at   Godhavn,  Greeidand,  (U' 
10'  N. ;  Austria,  at  Jan  ^layen,  betAveen  Norway  and  Greenland,  70 
58';    Sweden,   on   ]\Iosoel    Pay,  Spitzbergen,  70"  53'  N. ;    Norway,  at 
Bossekop,  the  north  cape  of  Finmark,  GO"  56'  N. ;  Holland,  at  Dickson- 
haven,  the  mouth  of  the  Yenesei,  73"  20'  N. ;  Russia,  at  Sokandyla. 
Finland,  07"  24'  N.,  at  Karmakuli  Bay,  north  coast  of  Nova  Zenibla, 
72"  30',  and  at  Cape  Borchaya,  on  the  east  of  the  Lena  Delta,  73°  N. 
For  these  stations  the  following  moneys  have  been  contributed,  chielly 
by  national  appropriations :     For  the  two  parties  in  the  United  States^ 
$100,000;  for  the  English,  *33,000 ;  for  the  Danish,  *40,000 ;  for  the 
Austrians,  by  Count  Wibczek  exclusively,  fj*40,000 ;  for  the  Swedish, 
-110,000;  for  the  Holland  observations,  $18,000;  for  Norway,  $8,000: 
for  Russia,  $00,000 ;  for  France,  at  Cape  Horn,  $00,000 ;  for  the  (J  m- 
man  observations  at  the  Georgian  Islands,  $30,000 ;  for  observations 
by  Italy  and  the  Argentine  Republic  at  the  South  Shetland  Islands, 
116,000. 


ances 
I)eriod 
tional 
t'ral  su 
pfoject 
heen  eg 
Adi 
toiy  an( 
<^lie  aid 
fuid  of 
nnd  the 


THIRTEEN   COUNTRIES   CO-OrERATING. 


533 


111'    (iCO- 

1  spi'ciiii 
1  oriicev 
)penitiiiji; 
■many  ai 
d,  in  lilt' 
uee,  llol- 


•mler  Trl- 
icates  Uu' 
•e  named  ; 
•many,  on 
iland,  M" 
nland,  TO''' 
onvay,  at 
it  Dicksnn- 
5()kan(lyla. 
a   Zembla, 
Ua.  73°  N. 
cd,  I'h'u'tly 
ed  States, 

0;  for  till' 
SAVtidisli, 

ay,  «8,000 ; 
V  the  ('« !V- 
servatioiis 
id  Islands, 


The  review  of  the  proposed  international  work  in  the  Bulletin  of 
the  SociSte  tie  G^ot/raphie  closes  with  tliesc  words :  "  If  we  add  to  all 
these  stations  those  already  existing  in  Russia,  Siberia,  Alaska,  the 
English  Provinces  of  the  North,  etc.,  it  will  be  seen  that  around  the 
whole  Polar  Circle  will  be  a  zone  of  observatories,  whose  observations 
will  form  the  study  of  the  globe  to  the  eightieth  degree  of  north  lati- 
tude ;  while  in  the  southern  hemisphere  England  has  a  meteorological 
observatory  in  the  Falklaiul  Islands.  .  .  .  The  larger  number  of  the 
civilized  nations  are  striving  by  seientiiic  means  to  wrest  the  myste- 
rious secrets  of  the  deep  from  their  hidden  recesses  of  the  North." 

At  the  date  of  the  issue,  by  the  United  States  Signal  Service,  Wash- 
ington, of  the  "Memoranda"  from  which  some  of  these  notes  of  the 
stations  are  cited,  it  is  stated  by  General  Ilazon,  that  since  the  organi- 
zation of  the  International  Connnission,  other  nations  have  enlisted  in 
the  work,  the    observing   parties   have   all   been  dispatched   to  their 
respective  destinations,  and  they  now  are  actually  engaged  in  the  con- 
templated observations.     Tne  stations  will  be  occupied  for  at  least  one, 
and,  in  some  cases,  for  three  years,  and  may  be  divided  into  two  classes, 
namely:  (1.)  The  special  polar  stations  within  thirty  degrees  of  the 
north  or  south  pole  ;  and,  (2.)  The  auxiliary  stations,  which  are  spread 
over   the    rest   of   the    habitable  globe.     Besides  these   land  stations, 
observations  made  on  shipboard   are  extensively  called  for,  and  it  is 
hoped  that  enough  observations  will  be  accumulated  to  allow  the  mak- 
ing of  a  complete  map  of  the  weather,  and  of  the  magnetic  disturb- 
ances throughout  tlie  whole  globe,  for  any  moment  of  time  during  the 
period  in  (juestion.     In  addition  to  the  main  work  of  these   interna- 
tional stations,  all  possible  attention  will  be  given  to  numerous  collat- 
eral subjects.     Thirteen  nations  have  thus  far  entered  heartily  into  the 
project ;  fifteen  polar  stations,  and  over  forty  auxiliary  stations  have 
been  established. 

A  distinction  was  made  between  the  observations  considered  obliga- 
tory  and  those  regarded  as  desirable.  Those  considered  obligatory  in 
tlie  aid  of  meteorology  are,  observations  on  the  temperature  of  the  air 
and  of  the  sea,  barometric  })ressure,  humidity,  winds,  clouds,  rainfalls, 
and  tlie  weather  and  optical  ])henomena ;  those  for  magnetism  are  for 


r  !i 


H- 


V   i-< 


n  \ 


I  V 


I  II 


iV:''' 

II,'' 


Ml 

lli.      : 


Ifel 


sill  1 
ii  'I 


I  i 


534 


AMERICAN    EXPLORATIONS    IN    THE    ICE   ZONES. 


absolute   declination,    inclination,  and   horizontal   intensity ;   and   lui' 
variations  of  the  same. 

In  the  Ollicial  Report  of  the  Chief  of  the  U.S.  Signal  Service  tcr 
tiio  year  1881,  he  had  said  that  "Owing  to  the  very  mobile  nature  df 
the  atmosphere,  the  changes  taking  place  on  our  portion  of  the  flolic 
especially  in  the  Arctic  Zone,  (]uickly  affect  regions  very  distant  thciv- 
froni.  The  study  of  the  weather  in  Kuropc  and  America  cannot  l.c 
successfully  prosecuted  without  a  daily  map  of  the  whole  norlluin 
liemisphere,  and  the  great  blank  space  of  the  Arctic  region  upon  (jui- 
simultaneous  international  chart  has  long  been  a  subject  of  relict  lo 
meteorologists.  .  .  .  The  general  object  is  to  accomplish  by  observntidus 
made  in  concert  at  numerous  stations  such  additions  to  our  knowhMl"c 
as  cannot  be  acquired  ])y  isolated  or  desultory  travelling  parties.  No 
special  attempt  will  be  made  at  geographical  exploration,  and  nrit/n'r 
expedition  is  in  any  sem^e  an  attempt  to  reach,  the  North  Pole.  'I'lio 
single  object  is  to  elucidate  the  phenomena  of  the  weather  and  flic 
magnetic  needle,  as  tiiey  occur  in  America  and  Europe,  by  means  u{ 
observations  taken  in  the  region  where  the  most  remarkable  disturbances 
seem  to  have  their  origin." 

In  the  expression  of  these  sentiments  and  in  the  carrying  out,  as 
General  Hazen  said,  the  promises  of  his  predecessor,  the  late  CJeneral 
Meyer,  by  co-o])erating  ^vith  the  International  Committee,  he  was  also 
furthering  the  objecsts  in  view  by  the  late  Professor  Henry,  as  exjiicsscd 
in  liis  letter  to  Hon.  I>.  A.  Willis,  dated  Jan.  31,  1877,  in  which  ho 
wrote:  "I  am  predisposed  to  advocate  any  rational  plan  for  ex  pi  (na- 
tion and  observation  within  the  Arctic  Circle.  Much  labor  has  been 
exj)ended  on  this  subject,  especially  with  a  view  to  reach  the  Pole;  yet 
many  ])roblems  connected  Avith  physical  geography  and  scuencc;  in  gen- 
eral remain  unsolved. 

"  I.  With  rcj^iinl  to  :i  better  determination  of  tlio  figure  of  the  earth,  ponduhiiii  (;x- 
perinients  are  required  in  the  region  in  question. 

"  II.  Th(!  magnetism  of  the  earth  requires,  for  its  better  ehiuidation,  a  larger  num- 
ber and  more  continued  observations  than  have  yet  been  made. 

"III.  To  complete  our  knowledge  of  tlie  tides  of  the  ocean,  a  series  of  observati'iii- 
siiould  \w  m.ade,  ;it  least  for  a  year. 

"IV.   For  completing  oiu-  iinowletlgo  of  the  winds  of  the  globe,  the  result- nf:! 


THE    PKELIMINAKV    EXPEDITION. 


586 


and 


lov 


ervicc  I'nr 
iiatvirc  (if 
the  gldlic. 
taut  tlicii- 
cannot  lie 
?,  noi'llicni 
\  iqion  iiiu' 
")£  ve;j;r('t  to 
bservatidiis 
kuowU'dge 
)ai'tu'S.     No 
and  neither 
Pole.     The 
tier  and  tlu; 
by  means  of 
disturhaiices 

ying"  out.  as 
hvte  (lenenil 
he  was  also 
as  ex]u'('ssc(l 
in  which  lie 
for  exjilora- 
)or  has  hcou 
le  Poh",  yet 
enee  in  ,^('U- 

I,  peniluluiu  ox- 

I,  a  liirgcr  nmn-   g 

ofobserviiti'Jiis 

tlu'  rcsull>  of  a 


larger  series  of  observations  than  those  we  now  possess  are  necessary,  and  :ilso  addi- 
tional obs(!rvations  on  temperature. 

"  V.  The  whole  field  of  natural  history  could  be  enriched  by  collections  in  the  line 
of  botany,  mineralogy,  geology,  etc.,  and  facts  of  interest  obtained  with  regard  to  tho 
ialluence  of  extreme  cold  on  animal  and  vegetable  life. 

"  All  of  the  branches  of  science  above  nientituied  are  indirectly  con- 
nected with  the  well-being  of  man,  and  tend  not  only  to  enlarge  his 
sphere  of  mental  pleasures  but  to  piunu'te  the  application  of  science  to 
llie  arts  of  life.  As  to  the  speciiil  [)lan  of  establishing  a  colony  of 
explorers  and  observers,  to  be  continued  for  several  years,  I  think 
favorably." 

The  plan  referred  to  by  Profes.'jor  Henry  was  the  one  embraced  in  a 
Memorial  which  had  been  submitted  to  Congress  bv  H.  W.  Ilowgate, 
then  on  duty  at  the  U.  S.  Signal  Service  Ollice.  The  efforts  for  this 
preliminarij  Polar  Expedition  had  resulted  in  the  dis^iatch  to  Cumber- 
land Sound,  by  the  aid  of  private  subscription  only,  of 


THE   SCHOONEK    "•  FLOHEXCIO "    IN    1877. 

The  "  Florence  "  was  a  fore  and  aft  vessel  of  lifty-six  tons,  built  in 
Wells,  Maine,  in  I80I,  for  mackerel  fishing:  afterwards  used  by  Wil- 
liams &  Haven,  Hall's  benefactors,  as  a  sealer  in  the  Southern  seas. 
Although  a.  staunch  and  fair  sea-boat,  she  was  too  small  for  the  purpose, 
ujid  sailed  at  least  two  months  later  than  was  desirable,  leaving  New 
London  August  3,  1877.  Her  three  professed  objects  were,  to  collect 
material,  dogs,  and  sledges;  secure  the  help  of  the  Eskimos  for  a  second 
steamer  which  it  was  propos(!d  should  fallow:  accomplish  some  scien- 
lilu^  work,  ami  re[)ay  the  outlay  by  whaling.  « 

Tlu!  ''Florence,'"  under  the  command  of  Captain  Cleorge  E.  Tyson, 
ihf  leader  of  the  Hoc  jjarty  from  the  ""  Polaris,"  lirst  anchored  in  Ni-an- 
ti-lic  harbor,  on  the  western  shore  of  Cumberland  Sound,  and  after 
securing  there  a  number  of  Eskimos  and  materials,  anchored,  October 
7.  in  4n-naw-nac-took,  in  about  hit.  ()7"  N.,  long.  G8''  40'  W.  A  small 
iiliservatory  and  W()rking-))lace  was  erected  inMler  shelter  for  meteoro- 
Ingical  and  other  observations,  and  as  soon  as  the  snow  became  compact 


\   f 


Ml' 


536 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS  IN  THE   ICE   ZONES. 


lllii'M^ 


liii; 


a  snow-house  built  over  this  tent,  which  remained  as  a  lining.  Sciontilic, 
work  was  begun  at  once  in  the  interests  of  meteorology  and  the  colloo 
tion  of  specimens  in  natural  history.  The  co-laborers  were  Mr.  Ludwi'p 
Kiimlien  and  Mr.  O.  T.  Sherman,  who  report  that  from  their  poculiar 
surroundings  and  isolation  they  "lost  much  of  their  wonted  enthusiasm 
during  the  long  dreary  winter,  and  found  rest  only  in  continued  work. 
Their  disapjiointments  were  increased  by  the  stormy  an.l  backward 
spring  of  1878,  the  treacherous  condition  of  the  ice,  and  the  de- 
parture of  the  'Florence'  from  the  harbor  as  early  as  the  18th  of 
July.  In  her  hasty  leaving,  valuable  preparations  were  of  necessity 
abandoned." 

Tho  collection  of  material  for  a  future  Arctic  colony  had  been  suc- 
cessful. Sixteen  Eskimos,  among  them  "a  nephew  of  Joe,  of  'Polaris' 
fame,"  twenty-eight  dogs,  and  enough  of  Arctic  clothing,  etc.,  were  on 
deck  and  in  the  hold. 

But  on  the  return  of  the  "  Florence  "  to  Godhavn,  July  31,  no  Ex- 
pedition steamer  was  to  be  seen,  nor  a  word  of  news  of  such,  or  ol'  let- 
ters from  home  ;  after  three  weeks  of  waiting,  therefore,  profitably  again 
emploA-ed  in  scientific  labors,  the  "Florence"  returned  to  Cumberland 
Sound,  and  re-landed  the  Eskimos  and  their  effects.  September  12  she 
headed  for  home,  reacliing  St.  Johns,  Newfoundland,  on  the  2Gth,  from 
which  port,  after  encountering  a  storm  of  unusual  fury.  Captain  Tyson's 
skill  brought  her  safely  into  Boston,  October  30,  1877. 

The  value  of  this  Expedition  will  thus  readily  appear  to  consist  in 
the  labors  of  the  scientific  officers  who  have  been  named.  The  "  Bulle- 
tins of  the  United  States  National  Museum"  furnish  the  catalogues  of 
the  specimens  in  natural  history,  now  on  deposit  in  that  Institution. 
Bulletin  No.  15  (Department  of  the  Interior)  is  prefaced  by  a  l)i'ief  In- 
troduction from  Mr.  Kiindien,  from  which,  and  from  "  The  Cruise  of 
the  '  Florence  '  by  Howgate,"  the  preceding  notes  have  been  drawn,  and 
by  a  very  interesting  Ethnological  Report. 

Professional  Paper  No.  XI.  of  the  Signal  Service,  is  a  quarto  Report 
b}  Mr.  O.  T.  Sherman,  the  meteorologist  of  the  Expedition.  Following 
a  brief  introductory  note  of  the  cruise,  Mr.  Sherman  in  this  voluiiio 
giv'^s  a;;  the  mcl:v;jrological  and  physical  observations  made  at  "Ananitu," 


PKt)r<)SKI)    I'EK.MANKNT   STATIONS. 


637 


Scieutilic 
he  coUoc- 
r.  Lu(l\vi'4 
L'  poculiiir 
titlmsiasiu 
ued  work, 
backward 
d   the   dc- 
e  IHth  (.f 
:  necessity 

I  been  suc- 
•f  'Polaris' 
;c.,  were  on 

31,  no  Ex- 

h,  or  of  let- 

itably  again 

umberland 

nber  12  she 

2<jth,  from 

ain  Tyson's 

p  consist  in 

The  ''  r.ulle- 

litalogues  of 

Institution 

a  brii'f  In- 

le  Cruise  of 

drawn,  and 

^arto  Report 

Following 

this  vol  n mo 

"Ananilu," 


"American,"  and  "Niantilic"  harbors  on  Cumberland  Gulf:  the  first 
trustworthy  observations  on  those  shores,  which  had  long  needed  a 
careful  survey  and  tidal  observations  for  the  benefit  of  the  frequent 
visits  of  whalers  there. 

THE  UNITED  STATES   SIGNAL   SERVICE   STATION  AT   LADY  FRANK- 
LIN BAY. 

Under  the  painful  anxieties  which  to-day  invest  one  of  tiie  United 
States  Signal  Service  Stations,  and  in  connection  with  the  return  of  the 
|)arty  which  had  located  at  the  other  station,  Point  Barrow,  notes  of 
their  history  are  instructive. 

The  colony  at  Fort  Conger,  in  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  kit.  81"  44'  N., 
long.  64"  30'  W.,  was  established  under  a  Special  Act  of  Congress, 
a])propriating  the  sum  of  $25,000  for  this  purpose.  By  direction  of  the 
Secretary  of  War,  First  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Greely,  U.  S.  A,,  in  June, 
1881,  was  charged  with  the  duty  of  establishing  a  permanent  station  at 
the  most  suitable  point  north  of  the  eighty-first  parallel,  and  contiguous 
to  the  coal  seam  discovered  near  Lady  Franklin  Bay  by  tlie  English 
Expedition  of  1875.  The  coal  vein  was  expected  to  aftbrd  sutiicient 
fuel. 

It  was  the  intention  of  Congress  that  this  station  should  be  main- 
tained for  three  years  at  least,  for  according  to  the  Rei)ort  of  Hon.  Mr. 
Whitthorne  from  the  Committee  of  Naval  Affairs,  House  of  Represent- 
atives, recommending  the  appropriation,  an  annual  visit  should,  be  made 
to  the  Station  to  carry  fresh  food  and  su[)plies,  m  I,  if  necessary.,  to 
bring  back  invalid  members  of  the  Expedition  i  carry  out  fresh 
observers  to  take  their  places. 

The  party  under  Lieutenant  Greely  ccmsists  Lieutenants  F.  F. 
Kislingbury  and  James  B.  Lf)ckwood,  and  Dr.  O  'avy,  Acting-Assist- 
ant Sui'geon  and  Naturalist,  with  a  force  of  ^  .v-ants,  corporals,  antl 
[irivates  of  the  LTnited  States  Army,  numl)eriiig  i-ighteen.  The  Lieu- 
tenant received  his  instructions  from  the  Chief  Signal  Officer,  who  em- 
liodiud  ill  them  specific  directions  fx)r  the  different  branches  of  the  work 
to  be  iiccomplished,  supplemented  by  special  instructions  from  "  The 
Coast  and  Geodetic  Survey,"  with  a  translation  of  tliose  adopted  by  the 


1 

J! 


'f\ 


I    ■ 


i-    .1 1 


r)38 


AMEUrCAi:    E.^PLOUATIONS    IX    THIO    ICE   ZOXES. 


■5';i   '   ' 


Tiiterniitioiial  Polar  Conference  of  1879,  and  ii  copy  of  those  furnislicd 
by  tlie  National  Academy  of  Sciences  to  the  Secretfuy  of  the  Navv  lor 
the  North  Polar  Expedition  of  1F71  under  Captain  C.  F.  Hall. 

The  directions  for  the  outward  voyage,  and  the  general  work  of  the 
party  after  reaching  their  station,  required  that  after  leaving  St.  .hilms 
Newfoundland,  ''except  to  obtain  Eskimo  hunters,  dogs,  clothing,  vie. 
at  Disco  or  U])ernavik,  only  sucli  stops  will  be  made  as  the  condiiion 
of  the  ice  necessitates,  or  as  are  essential  in  order  to  determine  the 
exact  location  and  condition  of  the  stores  cached  on  the  east  coasi  ol' 
Grinnell  I^and  by  the  English  Ex])edition  of  187").  During  any  en- 
forced delays  ulorig  the  coast  it  would  be  well  to  supplement  the  En<r. 
lish  depots  by  such  small  caches  from  the  steamer's  stores  of  provisions 
as  would  be  valuable  to  a  party  retreating  southward  1)3^  boats  iVoni 
Robeson's  Channel.  At  each  jioint  where  an  old  depot  is  examined,  or 
a  new  one  established,  three  brief  notices  will  be  left  of  the  visit  —  oni^ 
to  be  deposited  in  the  cairn  built  or  found  standing,  one  to  be  iilaced 
on  the  north  side  of  it,  and  one  to  be  buried  twenty  feet  north  (niag- 
netic")  of  the  cairn.  Notices  discovered  in  cairns  will  be  brought  awa;, 
replacing  them,  however,  by  oopies." 

The  steamer  ""Proteus,"  on  her  arrival  at  Lady  Franklin  IJay,  was  to 
discharge  her  cargo  with  the  utmost  dispatch,  and  return  to  St.  .lolms, 
bringing  a  report  of  the  proceedings  and  observations  made  during  the 
voyage,  while  the  ])arty  which  landed,  after  erecting  a  dwelling-lionso 
and  observatories,  were  to  make,  in  accordance  with  the  proposals  niado 
to  the  Navy  Department,  sledging  expeditions  for  geograi)hical  surveys 
to  the  high  land  north  of  Cape  Joseph  Henry :  their  chief  work,  how- 
ever, was  to  be  that  of  the  scientific  observations  wliich  have  been 
named. 

greely's  voyage  to  lady  franklin  bay. 

[From  (in  Unpuhllshed  Letter  loaned  by  the  United  Staten  Shjnul  Seriucc] 

Leaving  St.  Johns,  Newfoundland,  July  7,  Lieutenant  Greely  reaclicd 

Godhavn  on  the  16th,  the  voyage  being  made  in  face  of  continuously 

adverse  winds,  two  strong  northerly  gales  and  constant  cloudy  and  i'oguy 

weathiir.    Tiie  ship  behaved  admirably.    The  only  ice  seen  south  of  ( 'apo 


Farev 
and  5 

(11°  mi 

neithe 

delay. 

aI)ove 

di'iftec 

Strait. 

Fro 

that  tj 

."March. 

north 

I'avy   . 

dogs,  a 

with  a 

very  vj 

by  bart 

tobaccc 

The 

taken  o 

stored 

were  m; 

Leav: 

j     tenbenl^ 

(I I"  seals 

which  h 

1)1'.  Pav 

with  a  p 


FAVOr.Am  K   INDICATIONS. 


589 


iniislu'd 
»;ivy  lor 

k  (.1'  tlio 
..  •lolins, 
ing-,  CU;., 
onditiiiii 
nine  tin- 
coasi  o|' 
;niy  cii- 
tli(;  Va\'^- 
I'ovisiiuis 
lals  I'll  nil 
milled,  or 
sit  —  line 
!)('  plart'd 
rtli  (lua;!;- 
glit  away, 

ly,  was  to 

I.  JdllllS, 

ui'iiiL!,'  tlie 

illSJJ-linllSC 

sals  iiiavUi 

|d  surveys 

ork,  liow- 

ave  been 


h')'(cr.l 
Iv  veachod 
Itimionsly 
ind  i"o2;t;',V 
u  of  Cape 


Karewell  was  a  lew  iceberjvs  off  Funk  Island,  and  about  forty  in  52°  M. 
and  53°  15'  VV.  l*ack-ife  was  fallen  in  with  at  10.30  i'.  M.  .Inly  12,  in  lat. 
(il°  30'  N.,  53°  30'  W.,  and  a  second  paek  (Mieounten-d  tlie  same  day,  at 
■IM  1'.  >r,,  in  (12°  30'  N.,  52°  15'  VV.,  was  passed  tlirouoji  in  an  hour; 
neither  offered  any  obstructions  to  free  ])assage  oi'  caused  the  sli^litest 
delay.  The}'  l)()th  consisted  o'.  ice-lloes  varying  from  one  to  eight  feet 
above  the  water.  Coming  from  the  east  coast  of  (ireenland,  they  iiad 
drifted  with  the  soutlierly  current  froia  ("ape  Farewell  into  Davis 
Strait. 

From  Herr  Krarup  Smith,  Inspector  of  North  (ireenland,  it  was  learned 
tiiat  the  past  winter  in  (ireenland,  except  a  brief  i)erioil  of  cold  in 
March,  had  been  one  of  marked  and  unusual  mildness,  and  that  the  ice 
north  of  U})ernavik  had  broken  iij)  verj-  early,  duly  20,  Dr.  Octave 
I'avy  joined  the  Expediti(ni  as  Acting  Assistant  Surgeon.  Twelve 
dogs,  a  large  quantity  of  dog  food,  and  some  sealskins  wer(!  j)rocured, 
with  a  considerable  (quantity  of  '^ tnatfnk,'"  skin  of  the  white  Avhale,  a 
very  valuable  anti-scorbutk* ;  and  a  few  articles  of  fur  (dothing  obtained 
by  barter,  as  tliey  c  "Md  not  be  bought  fr-  inoney.  Hard  bread  and 
tobacco  were  principally  given  in  exchangv 

The  remains  of  ti;e  house  pnrchased  by  the  '•  Florence  "  in  1880  were 
taken  on  board,  as  well  as  thirty  thousand  pounds  of  buffalo  pemmican 
stored  by  the  same  Expedition.  A  good  set  of  observations  for  time 
were  made  Jnly  19-20,  at  the  only  hours  during  which  the  sun  shone. 

Leaving  Godhavn  the  morning  of  the  21st,  the  vessel  reached  llit- 
tcnbenk  the  same  forenoon.  At  that  point  were  purchased  a  number 
of  sealskins,  a  large  quantity  of  dog  food,  and  other  minor  articles, 
which  had  been  accumulated  for  the  Expedition  through  the  energy  of 
Dr.  Pavy.  Being  delayed  by  the  fog  Lieutenant  Lockwood  was  sent 
with  a  party  to  obtain  birds  from  Awe-Prins  Island.  lie  returned  that 
evening  with  sixty-iive  guillemots  (Alcaawa  or  Alca  Bruennichi).  It 
was  said  at  Rittenbenk  that  the  spring  had  been  the  most  forward  one 
for  years. 

From  Rittenbenk,  running  through  tlie  Waigat,  the  steamer  was  off 
Upernavik  9  p.  m.  July  23,  but  owing  to  the  fog  could  not  enter  the  harbor 
until  next  morning.     Two  Eskimos  who  were  expected  to  accompany 


1   r'l 


;:■,■,'' 


540 


AMERICAN    EXl'LOUATIONS    IN   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


!'>i 


IM 


the  Expedition  were  not  available,  and  in  consequence  atrii»  to  I'loveii, 
about  lit'ty  miles  distant,  was  necessaiy  to  obtain  others.  Skin  elothing 
could  not  be  obtained,  except  ten  suits,  which  having  been  made  by 
order  of  the  Danish  Government  for  the  use  of  the  Jnternational  Polar 
Station  of  Upernavik  of  1882-83,  were  now  sold  through  iIm;  kind- 
ness of  Inspector  Smith. 

On  the  morning  of  July  25  Lieutenant  Lockwood  left  in  the  steam- 
launch  "-Lady  Grecly  "  for  Proven,  taking  a  circuitous  route  insid(!  tin; 
islands,  rendered  necessary  by  bad  weather,  lie  returned  early  on  tlui 
28th,  bringing  for  service  with  the  Expedition  a  native,  Jans  Edward, 
and  a  half-breed,  Frederick  Shorley  Christiansen  ;  he  also  procured  about 
a  dozen  suits  of  skin  clothing,  which,  though  second-hand,  were  very  ser- 
viceable. He  had  killed  one  liundred  and  twenty  guillemots  during  lijs 
voyage.  The  launch  behaved  admirably,  both  as  a  sea-boat  and  under 
steam. 

Lieutenant  Kislingbury,  vuider  orders,  made  two  visits,  July  24  and 
25,  to  the  '"Loomery  "  near  Sanderson's  Hope,  bringing  back  the  liist 
day  three  hundred  fine  birds,  and  on  the  latter  one  hundred  and  lirtecii, 
all  guillemots  (Alca  Awa),  and  ten  dogs,  five  of  whom  died  of  dog  dis- 
ease, and  must  have  been  sick  when  sold.  Additional  dog  food,  sledge 
fittings,  dog  harness,  and  sealskins  were  also  bought.  It  was  through 
the  marked  interest  and  kindly  influence  of  Inspector  Smith  that  the 
Exp"  lition  secured  the  services  of  the  natives  and  obtained  so  fair  a 
stock  of  needed  articles. 

The  Meteorological  Records  of  the  past  winter  showed  it  to  have  been 
very  mild,  and  the  s})ring  very  early.  Inspector  Smith  remarked  that 
in  fourteen  years  Ui)ernavik  had  never  been  so  green.  Reports  from 
Tessi-ussak  were  to  the  effect  that  the  ice,  breaking  up  very  early,  was 
all  gone.  On  the  afternoon  of  July  29  the  anchorage  of  Upernavik  was 
left,  and  at  7  r.  m.,  having  run  out  the  southern  way,  the  vessel  was  dis- 
tant three  miles,  just  off  the  island  to  the  west.  Running  norihward  a 
i'ew  hours,  the  Middle  Passage  was  taken,  and  at  7  a.m.  July  31,  the 
engines  were  st()j)ped,  as  the  dead  reckoning  placed  the  vessel  only  six 
miles  south  of  Cape  York  ;  a  dense  fog  prevented  the  land  from  being 
seen,  but  an  hour  later,  the  fog  lifting  a  few  minutes,  showed  land  about 


LITTLiyroX    ISLAM). 


m 


five  miles  distant.  This  experience  of  the  "  Middle  Passaj^o '"  may  l)e 
fairly  said  to  have  been  without  parallel  or  precedent.  The  run  of  the 
English  Expedition  of  1875-70  from  Upernavik  to  seventy-live  nJles 
south  of  Cape  York  in  seventy  hours  was  said  to  have  been  unprece- 
dented ;  this  passage  by  the  same  route,  and  to  within  live  miles  of 
Cape  York,  was  made  in  thirty-six  hours,  half  the  time  taken  by  the 
Exj)edition  under  Sir  George  Nares  to  run  a  less  distance. 

Nothing  in  the  shape  of  a  pack  was  encountered  in  Baihn's  Hay  ;  but 
in  about  75°  08'  N.,  03°  40'  W.,  a  [)ack  wjs  seen  to  the  westward; 
whether  open  or  compact  was  inicertain.  At  8.15  A.  M.  July  HI,  the  fog 
lifting,  disclosed  I'etowik  glacier  near,  to  the  north  of  which,  in  small 
patches  of  dirty  reddish  color,  was  seen  the  red  snow  among  the  •■  crim- 
son cliffs  "  of  Sir  John  Ross.  Sighting  the  Carey  islands  at  8.10  P.  M., 
two  parties  were  landed  on  the  sout,Iieast  at  5.45  r.M.  The  i)arty  under 
Dr.  Pav}''  obtained  from  the  cairn  on  the  summit  the  record  left  by 
Cai)tain  Allen  Young  in  1875  and  1876,  and  with  Lieutenants  Greely 
and  Lockwood  found  and  examined  the  whaleboat  and  depot  of  pro- 
visions left  by  Sir  George  Nares  in  1875;  they  were  in  good  and  ser- 
viceable condition. 

August  2  Littleton  Island  was  reached.  Here  a  personal  and  ex- 
haustive search  of  seven  hours  was  necessary  to  find  the  English  mails, 
which,  in  four  boxes  and  three  kegs,  have  been  forwarded  in  order  that 
they  may  be  returned  to  England.  There  was  a  very  small  cairn  near 
the  mails,  but  with  no  record.  A  record  enclosure  was  left  licrt',  and 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  with  a  party  landed  about  six  and  a  half  tons  of 
coal,  as  a  dei)ot  of  fuel  for  possible  future  use.  It  is  in  and  around  a 
large  cask,  on  low  ground,  on  the  southeast  side  of  the  island,  facing 
Cape  Alexander.  Jjieutenant  Kislingbury  and  Dr.  Pavy  visited  Life- 
l)(>at  Cave  to  communicate  with  the  Etali  Eskimos  and  see  the  "  Polaris  " 
winter  quarters.  Several  photographs  of  the  surroundings  were  taken 
i)y  Sergeant  Rice,  and  a  nmnber  of  relics  were  brought  off,  which  will 
he  forwarde(L  The  Transit  instrument  of  the  "Polaris"  (not  seen  by 
the  English  Expedition  of  1875)  was  found  about  twenty  feet  from  the 
cairn.  The  Etah  Eskimos  have  evidently  (quitted  the  place,  as  ail  traces 
were  old,  a  year  certainly,  and  probably  two  or  three  vears. 


I 


li 

I' 


642 


AMKIIICAN    EXIM.OIIATIONH    IN     I'lIK    ICK   ZONKS. 


!,! 


I 


i  ,    Itl 


1'    ;fi:i' 


'lul 


In  soarcliing  on  liittleton  Island  for  tlio  Nares  cairn  about  fifty  small 
cairns  (many  evidently  for  jranie)  were  found,  in  two  of  wliirh  were 
records  from  the  steamship  "  ICrik,"  Captain  VValkei-,  June  20,  l87(>.  A 
cairn  carefully  built,  and  with  an  aperture  at  the  base,  probably  that  of 
Sir  (Jeorj^'e  Nares,  was  found  open  and  empty.  A  record  was  made  by 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  for  deposit,  but  u  message  sent  him  when  the 
lOnglish  mail  was  found  caused  him  to  withdraw  it,  or  he  was  erroneously 
informed  that  the  cairn  sought  for  had  been  discovered.  It  [)robably 
has  been  plundered,  as  a  piece  of  u  London  newspaper,  "The  Standai-d," 
was  found  in  the  snow  on  the  west  side  of  the  island.  It  contains  a 
notice  of  ii  lecture  by  Sir  George  Nares  in  1875. 

Some  repairs  to  the  wheel  of  the  shi[)  caused  several  hours'  delay; 
but  Littleton  Island  was  left  at  10.45  v.M.  The  weather  being  very 
fair,  and  no  ice  visible,  the  caj)tain  was  directed  to  run  direct  for  ("ape 
Hawks.  August  8,  Ca]»e  Sabine  was  passed  at  1.50  A.m.  and  Capo 
Camperdown  at  4.10  A.M.  At  8.30  A.  M.  the  "Proteus"  was  off  Cape 
Hawks,  and  at  'J.lO  A.M.  lay  to  about  two  miles  north  of  it,  between 
the  main  land  and  Washington  Irving  Island.  Lieutenants  (ilreely  and 
Kislingbury  proceeded  to  the  main  shore,  and  examined  the  Kngiish 
depot  of  1875.  The  jollyboat  was  found  in  good  condition,  and,  being 
short  of  boats,  was  taken.  Several  photograjjlis  of  the  surroundings 
were  taken  by  Sergeant  Kice.  Washington  Land  was  first  sighted  at 
3.55  P.M.  through  openings  in  the  fog  which  commenced  setting  in. 
About  5  V.  M.  the  80th  parallel  was  crossed,  and  at  5.30  the  ship  was 
abreast  off  Cape  Collinson,  where  two  hundred  and  forty  rations  are 
cached,  but  which  were  not  visited,  througli  fear  that  denser  fogs 
would  set  in  and  seriously  delay  the  northward  passage.  At  10  p.m., 
after  running  slowly  through  a  dense  fog,  it  was  necessary  to  stop  until 
the  next  day  (August  4),  when  the  fog  cleared  at  11.15  a.m.  Franklin 
Sound  was  sighted  about  eight  miles  northeast  (true)  ;  it  was  passed  at 
11.45  A.M.  At  2  P.M.  the  ship  stopped  in  the  northeast  end  of  Carl 
Kitter  Bay,  where  about  two  hundred  and  twenty-five  bread  and  meat 
rations  were  landed  by  a  party,  for  use  in  case  of  a  retreat  south  in  1888. 
Tlie  depot  was  made  on  the  first  bench  from  the  sea,  just  north  of  a 
little  creek  in  the  extreme  northeast  part  of  the  bay. 


THK   "I'HOTEUS"    IN   THE    I'AL'K. 


543 


About  7.4r)  1'.  M.,  ofV  Cupc  LiclxM,  a  lif  vy  pack  a<]faiiist  llio  land 
was  passed  by  ;i  <l»'t(Hir  to  the  eastward,  and  at  J>  r.  M,  Auj^ust  4,  tlu! 
voss(d  was  stopped  I'or  the  Jit'xf  tlinr  hif  ice,  in  the  extrenu;  soutlieast 
part  of  Lady  Franklin  Hay,  only  eij^ht  miles  IVoni  destination.  'I'ho 
pack  was  a  very  iieavy  one,  and  running  JVoni  Cape  liaird  northward 
in  a  senii(!irele,  roaehed  tlu;  (ireeidand  coast,  where  it  touched  the  land 
just  south  of  Olllcy  Island,  near  the  mouth  of  I'eterman's  Fiord.  It 
consisted  of  thick  I'olar  ice,  ranging  from  twenty  to  iifty  feet  in  thick- 
ness, cemented  together  l)y  harbor  ice  from  two  to  live  feet  thick.  It 
was  impossible  to  do  aught  but  wait,  'i'he  vessel  was  tied  to  the  pack 
off  ("ajx'  IJaird,  and  awaited  a  gale. 

August  '),  Greely  went  ashore  at  Cape  Lieber.  with  Tiieutenant 
]..ockwood,  l)o(;tor  Pavyand  a  party,  to  examine  the  ice  from  the  cliffs. 
Lieutenant  Lockwood  erected  u  cairn  on  the  highest  [)eak.  No  otiier 
cairn  could  be  seen  on  it  or  from  it,  nor  on  other  jjcaks  visited  by 
Greely  and  Doctor  Pavy.  Occasional  lanes  of  water  could  be  seen 
througli  the  rifts  of  the  fog-cloud  which  covered  Ilull-basin;  but  the 
main  pack  was  lirm  and  unchanged.  August  6,  the  pack  moving 
slightly,  obliged  the  vessel  to  change  her  mooring-place  from  time  to 
time;  it  drove  the  ship  out  of  Lady  Franklin  Hay,  and  during  two 
days  she  was  gradually  driven  south  ;  probably  twenty-five  miles  of  ice 
in  huge  fields  passed  southward.  Kvery  opportunity  Avas  improved  to 
steam  around  such  lields,  to  keep  head  against  the  southerly  current; 
but  by  the  evening  of  August  8  the  steady  nortli  Aviud  had  forced  the 
whole  pack  down,  while  the  fields  previously  driven  southward,  j)acked 
fast  together,  formed  a  huge,  compact  barrier,  stretching  from  Carl 
Kitter  Hay  across  to  Hans  Lshind.  Only  a  mile  or  so  of  o])en  water 
remained.  A  nip  appeared  most  probable,  and  jjreparations  were 
hastily  made  to  unship  screw  and  rudder.  During  the  night  matters 
improved  somewhat;  but  again,  during  the  9th  and  10th,  the  ship  was 
forced  slowly  southwards  to  within  about  five  miles  of  Hans  Islands, 
having  lost  about  forty-five  miles  of  latitude. 


It 


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IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


% 


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Li  12.8 

ISO     ^^" 
HI 

40 


25 
2.2 


11.25  III  1.4 


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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  145S0 

(716)  872-4503 


544 


AMEKICAJ^    EXPI.OHATIONS    IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


I 

.(.■■ 


RELEASE  OP  THE   "PROTEUS." 

About  noon  of  tho  10th  the  h)ng-<.le8iied  southwest  gale  set  in 
accompanied  by  snow,  starting  the  pack  northward.  The  snow  cl(!are<l 
the  next  morning,  but  the  gale  fortunately  continued,  and  ojien  water 
was  visible  on  the  west  coast  as  far  northward  as  could  be  seen. 
At  7.30  A.M.  the  ship  rapidly  ran  northward,  and  about  1  i».  m.  again 
passed  Cape  Lieber,  and  at  2.40  r.  M.  had  crossed  Lady  Franklin  Hav. 
Either  ice-foot  or  pack-ice  jannned  against  the  shore,  covered  Water- 
course Bay,  but  a  narrow  lane  permitted  the  vessel  to  enter  Discovery 
Harbor  just  inside  Dutch  Island,  where  harbor  ice  about  eighteen 
inches  thick  was  found,  covering  the  whole  harbor  as  well  as  the  western 
lialf  of  Lady  Franklin  Bay.  The  vessel  forced  her  way  about  one 
fourth  of  a  mile  through  ice  of  the  character  named  above,  and  there 
stopped,  pending  a  decision  as  to  the  locality  of  the  station.  Lieuten- 
ant Lockwood,  sent  to  examine  the  bay,  reported  the  place  an  excellent 
one  for  camp,  the  bay  partly  clear,  but  shallow.  He  thought  it  prob- 
able the  vessel  could  come  within  about  two  hundred  yards  of  the 
shore  ;  the  bay,  however,  was  of  such  shape  that  while  discharging,  the 
vessel  would  be  unprotected  against  ice,  as  it  is  exposed  to  all  winds 
from  northeast  to  south-southwest.  The  coal  was  so  located  that  it 
could  be  readily  mined  after  ice  formed,  and  could,  if  re<i[uired,  be 
hauled  without  diihculty  to  Watercourse  Bay  or  to  Discovery  Harbor. 
Lieutenant  Greely  reluctantly  decided  to  settle  at  Discovery  wintei- 
quarters ;  and  it  was  a  fortunate  decision,  for  Watercourse  Bay  was 
full  of  pack-ice. 

On  the  12th  the  vessel  broke  her  way  through  two  miles  of  heavy 
ice,  and  anchored  off  the  cairn  about  one  hundred  yards  from  shore ; 
the  men  were  divided  into  two  g.angs,  to  work  day  and  night  by  four- 
hour  reliefs,  until  the  general  cargo  was  discharged,  which  was  done  in 
sixty  hours.  Coal  was  landed,  of  which  there  was  about  one  hundred 
and  forty  tons,  enough  to  last  two  winters  without  mining  any.  Work 
on  the  house  progressed  rapidly,  though  but  three  or  four  men  could 
be  spared  for  the  work.  The  foundation  was  finished,  floor  stringers 
laid,  and  about  one  eighth  of  the  frame  set  up.     Fourteen  musk  oxen 


GEEELY'8  SUrPLIES  AND  CACHES. 


545 


set  ill, 

cleared 
u  water 
je  seen. 
^1.  again 
ill  liay. 

Watei- 
iscoveiy 
L'igliteeii 
western 
lout  one 
1(1  there 
Lieuten- 
jxcellent 

it  prob- 
is  of  the 
^ing,  the 

11  winds 
that  it 
lived,  be 

Harbor, 
winter 

Bay  was 

uf  heavy 
11  shore  ; 
by  four- 
done  in 
hundred 
,     Work 
3n  could 
tringers 
isk  oxen 


I 


were  immediately  killed,  and  enough  meat  procured  for  issue,  three 
times  a  week,  for  the  foUowinfr  seven  months,  besides  ten  days'  rations 
of  dried  birds.  "  The  post  has  been  named  Fort  Conger,  in  honor  of 
Senator  Conger  of  Michigan.  Photographic  views  have  been,  and  will 
be,  tak'jn  once  each  day.  From  these  one  can  best  judge  of  the 
progress  and  condition  of  affairs." 

It  is  proper  to  state,  says  Lieutenant  Greely,  that  a  retreat  from 
here  southward  to  Cape  Sabine,  in  case  no  vessel  reaches  here  in 
1882-83,  toill  be  safe  and  practicable  ;  although  all  but  the  most  impor- 
tant records  will  necessarily  have  to  be  abandoned ;  abstracts  could 
and  will  be  made  of  those  left. 

In  the  Reports  of  the  Signal  Officer  for  1881-82,  it  is  stated  that, 
"  The  station  has  supplies  for  tzvo  years ;  that  it  was  contemplated  to 
be  visited  in  1882  and  1883  by  a  seal  steamer  or  other  vessel,  bearing 
such  supplies  and  additions  to  the  party  as  might  be  deemed  needful ; 
and  that  in  case  such  vessel  is  unable  to  reach  Lady  Franklin  Bay  in 
1882,  she  will  cache  a  portion  of  her  sup])lios  and  all  of  her  letters  and 
dispatches  at  the  most  northerly  point  she  attains  on  the  cast  coast  of 
Grinnell  Land,,  and  establish  a  small  depot  of  supplies  at  Littleton 
Island.  Notices  of  the  locality  of  such  depots  will  be  left  at  one  or 
all  of  the  following  places,  viz. :  Cape  Hawks,  Cape  Sabine,  and  Cape 
Isabella.  In  case  no  vessel  reaches  the  permanent  station  in  1882,  the 
vessel  sent  in  1883  will  remain  in  Smith's  Sound  until  there  is  danger 
of  its  closing  by  ice,  and,  on  leavim/  tvill  land  all  her  supplies  and  a 
party  at  Littleton  Island,  which  party  will  be  prepared  for  a  winter's 
stay,  and  will  be  instructed  to  senct  sledge  parties  up  the  east  side  of 
Grinnell  Land  to  meet  this  party.  If  not  visited  in  1882,  Lieutenant 
Greely  will  abandon  his  station  not  later  than  September  1,  1883,  and 
will  retreat  southward  by  boat,  following  closely  the  east  coast  of 
Grinnell  Land,  until  the  relieving  vessel  is  met  or  Littleton  Island  is 
reached." 

THE   ATTEMPTED  RELIEFS   OF    1882   AND   1883. 

"  During  the  first  session  of  the  Forty-seventh  Congress  an  Act  was 
passed  June  27,  1882,  appropriating  133,000  for  the  supply  and  relief 


II 


646 


AMERICAN    EXPLOKATIONS    IN   THE   ICE  ZONKS. 


of  Lieutenant  f Jreely's  p.arty ;  and  under  this  appropriation  Mr.  Wil- 
liam M.  Beebe  was  sent  out  with  men  and  supplies  on  board  the 
*  Neptune,'  on  the  8th  of  July  following.  His  Kej)ort  to  the  Signal 
Oilicer,  dated  St.  Johns,  N.  F.,  September  28,  tells  the  brief  story  of 
tlie  failure  of  this  vessel  to  reach  the  station. 

"The  'Neptune'  met  the  first  field  ice  July  13,  lat.  (JO"  N.,  long. 
54°  W.  Mr.  Heebe  says  that  these  fields,  though  not  large,  were  vtiv 
heavy  and  solid,  and  this  was  undoubtedly  the  heavy  winter  ice,  Ijoriic 
from  the  eastern  coast  of  Greenland  by  the  strong  current  which  sets 
southward  from  about  Iceland,  turns  to  the  westward  and  northward 
around  Cape  Farewell,  and  flows  up  the  western  coast  of  (^reenland, 
until,  in  lat.  (about)  07°  N.,  it  meets  and  mingles  with  the  current 
from  Baffin's  Bay.  These  united  currents  set  southward  with  great 
strength  down  the  coast  of  Labrador,  and  trending  eastward,  pass 
around  and  down  the  eastern  coast  of  Newfoundland  and  into  the  (iulf 
Stream,  carrying  with  them  the  immense  icebergs  launched  from  the 
numerous  glaciers  of  West  Greenland  and  so  much  of  the  ice-fields  as 
had  survived  the  passage  from  Davis  Strait."  The  passage  of  the  ship 
did  not  exceed  three  miles  an  hour,  but  she  broke  through  the  frag- 
ments of  solid  ice-pans,  clearing  the  floe  within  two  days,  and  arriving 
at  Godhavn  on  the  17th.  Here  she  learned  the  death  of  the  Danish 
Inspector  Smith,  so  frequently  referred  to  in  all  previous  American 
expeditions.  Leaving  Godhavn  July  20,  the  "  Nei)tune  "  encountered 
a  blinding  snowstorm,  rendering  it  impossible  to  i)ick  her  way  through 
the  channels.  She  tied  up  to  the  ice-fields  for  the  night.  Working 
again  with  difficndty  from  the  23d  to  the  28th,  after  helplessly  drifting 
with  the  tides  in  i)lain  view  of  Cape  York  and  the  Crimson  Cliffs  of 
Beverly,  she  passed  Littleton  Island;  but,  a  half  hour  later,  was 
checked  by  an  unbroken  ice-ban  icr,  from  twelve  to  twenty  feet  thick, 
extending  from  Cape  Inglefield  on  the  West,  across  the  sound,  to  Ross 
Bay  and  to  the  northern  horizon.  Turning  again  southward,  and 
looking  in  only  at  Life-boat  Cove  and  Port  Foulke,  she  made  a  toler- 
ably comfortable  anchorage  in  Pandora  Harbor,  finding  here  Sir  Allen 
Young's  record  of  his  visit  in  the  "Pandora,"  1875 ;  and,  for  a  most 
accep.table  change  from  the  ordinary  ship's  fare,  abundance  of  game  — 


THE   "NEPTUNE"   RETUllNS. 


541 


Arctic  hares,  eider  clucks,  auks,  and  a  variety  of  gulls.  August  7,  the 
field  ice  having  been  thoroughly  broken  by  the  southwest  gales,  the 
"Neptune"  again  turned  northward,  reaching  on  the  10th  lat.  7l)°  20', 
twelve  miles  from  ('ai)e  Hawks  and  seventeen  from  Cape  Prescott. 
On  the  18th  she  anchored  in  Payer  Harbor,  lat.  78°  42'  N.,  long.  74° 
21',  finding  on  Brevoort  Island,  and  on  an  islet  near  it,  Captain  Nares' 
record  and  the  depot  established  by  Captain  Stepljcnson.  The  broken 
cache  was  rebuilt,  and  a  record  of  the  "  Neptune  "  placed  in  it. 

Making  a  third  northward  effort  on  the  23d,  but  checked  in  it. 
Captain  Sopp  found  the  condition  of  the  ice  and  the  i)revalenee  of  the 
southwest  winds  to  demand  that  the  ship  should  seek  a  harbor ;  he 
returned  to  Pandora  Bay,  and  from  thence,  after  several  unsuccessful 
attempts  even  to  establish  a  depot  as  far  nortli  as  Ca[)e  Hawks,  an- 
chored off  Littleton  Island  on  the  28th.  Mr.  Beebe  here  effected  a 
landing,  and  established  one  cache  on  Cape  Sabine  and  a  second  on 
Littleton  Island,  securing  these  so  as  to  be  invisible  from  any  point 
a  few  yards  distant,  that  they  might  be  safe  from  the  Etah  Eskimos, 
a  party  (tf  whom  had  already  twice  visited  the  "Neptune."  Minute 
directions  for  finding  these  stores,  as  well  as  a  whaleboat  placed  on 
Cape  Isabella,  were  left  on  another  part  of  the  Island,  as  had  been 
requested  by  Lieutenant  (xreely's  letter  of  the  i)revious  year.  Mr. 
Beebe  was  satisfied  that  if  Lieutenant  Greely  should  come  <h)wn  to 
Cape  Sabine  he  would  readily  find  these.  After  effecting  this  provi- 
sion for  the  future  of  that  party,  he  was,  however,  reluctantly  com- 
pelled to  assent  to  the  decision  of  the  captain  of  the  "Neptune,"  its  first 
officer,  Mr.  Norman,  ana  the  surgeo!i,  to  return  to  the  United  States. 
Further  delay  was  useless  and  extremely  hazardous,  and  the  safety  of 
the  ship  and  the  lives  of  all  on  board  demanded  an  immediate  depar- 
ture. On  the  8th  of  September  Godhavn  was  again  reached,  and  the 
dogs,  dog-food  and  lumber  put  on  shore  for  a  subsecpient  expedition : 
on  the  24th  the  "Neptune"  anchored  again  at  St.  Johns.  The  voyage 
was  another  and  a  striking  illustration  of  the  uncertainty  of  ice-navi- 
gation, especially  as  contrasted  with  that  of  the  "  Proteus  "  when  she 
took  out  the  party  under  Lieutenant  Greel}'  the  previous  year.  It  was 
disheartening  to  the  friends  of  Arctic  P]xi)loration,  as  well  as  to  the 


!l 


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I:' 


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■l 


I 


' 


548 


AMEUICAN    EXI'LOHATIONS   IN   THE   ICE  ZONES. 


relatives  of  tlie  explorers,  that  no  supplies  could  be  afforded  to  those 
at  such  distance  frt)in  home,  and  no  reports  of  their  labors  or  of  their 
condition  could  be  received.  Nothing  whatever  could  be  done  until 
the  summer  of  1883. 


m 


THE   KELIEP  SHIP    "PROTEUS,"   1883. 

In  obedience  to  orders  from  the  War  Department  and  from  the 
chief  signal  officer  U.  S.  A.,  Lieutenant  E.  A.  Garlington  left  New 
York  on  board  the  U.  S.  steamer  "Yantic,"  Commander  Wildes,  June 
12,  and,  on  arriving  at  St.  Johns  on  the  21st,  finding  there  the  steam- 
ship "  Proteus,"  which  had  been  chartered  for  an  expedition  to  relieve 
Lieutenant  Greely's  party,  nearly  ready  for  sea.  After  a  consnltiition 
with  Connnander  Wildes,  the  steamships  "  Yantic "  and  "  Proteus  " 
left  St.  Johns  June  29,  J^ieutenant  Garlington  having  been  joined  on 
board  the  "  Proteus  "  by  J^ieutenant  J.  C.  Colwell,  U.  S.  N.,  on  duty, 
under  orders  from  the  Navy  Department,  as  a  volunteer. 

Disco  Island  was  sighted  July  6,  but  Captain  Pike,  "by  some  error 
in  his  bearings,"  ran  by  the  entrance  to  the  harbor,  and  was  making 
about  due  course  for  Rittenbenk,  when  some  one  on  deck  discovered  a 
pilot-boat  steaming  after  them.  The  shi])  was  put  about  and  the 
captain  piloted  into  Godhaven. 

The  "  Yantic  "  arrived  on  the  12th,  having  come  all  the  way  under 
sail  and  encountering  no  ice.  Commander  Wildes  informing  the  lieu- 
tenant that  he  would  remain  at  Godhavn  probably  a  week,  and  then 
go  to  the  Waigat  Strait  to  procure  coal,  Garlington  left  the  harbor  on 
the  IGth,  determined  to  push  his  way  forward  without  further  delay. 
The  Inspector  and  the  Governor  of  Godhavn  both  assured  him  that 
there  would  probably  be  no  difficulty  in  reaching  the  station.  On  the 
17th,  when  passing  Hare  Island,  icebergs  wore  numerous  in  every 
direction.  On  the  18th  the  "Proteus"  was  forcing  her  way  through 
ice  varying  from  two  to  six  feet  in  thickness,  and  on  the  second  day 
following  she  was  stG^)ped  by  an  impenetrable  pack.  Lieutenant  Col- 
well determined  the  longitude,  by  an  artificial  horizon  placed  on  the 
floe,  to  be  (31°  30',  "  proving  the  captain  of  the  ship  to  be  entirely  in 
error  as  to  his  position  :  Captain  Pike  had  no  idea  of  what  was  the 


.a. 
ill 


A   MISTAKKN    LKAI>. 


549 


local  deviation  of  the  compass."     The  '•  Proteus  "  again  turned  south, 
Cape  York  in  sight :  on  tiie  22d  the  southeast  Carey  Island,  the  cache 
of  Narea'  Expedition,  was  visited,  and  a  record  taken  up  which  was 
made  there  Aug.  1,  1881. 
The  record  is  as  foUows : 

"  Intorn.ational  Polar  Expedition  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  fitted  out  by  the  War 
Department,  under  tiie  supervision  of  General  W.  B.  Ilazen,  Cliief  Signal  Ollicer 
IT.  ,S.  Army,  and  eommanded  by  First  Lieutenant  A.  W.  Greely  Fifth  Cavalr}-, 
A.  S.  O.  and  Asst. 

"Left  in  the  Steanisliip  'Proteus,'  island  of  Upornavik,  7  p.m.,  July  29,  1881, 
and  at  7  A.  M.,  July  .11,  stopped  by  a  heavy  fog  about  six  miles  south  of  land  supposed 
to  be  Cape  York.  Middle  passage  taken  and  found  to  bo  enlirely  unobstructed  by  ice. 
All  well.     This  notice  deposited  August  1,  1881. 

(Signed)  "J.  B.  LOCKWOOI), 

"  Lieut.  23d  Inf.  U.  S.  Army,  Third  Officer." 

(Memouanda.) 

"  One  keg  of  biscuits  opened  and  found  mouldy.  One  can  of  beef  opened  and 
found  good.  Stores  generally  found  api)arently  in  same  condition  as  when  deposited 
here  in  1875. 

(Signed)  "  J.  B.  LOCKWOOD,  Lieut.  U.  S.  Army." 


At  Cape  Sabine,  Payer  Harbor,  the  cache  of  stores  made  by  the 
party  from  the  "  Neptune  "  the  year  previous,  was  found  to  be  in  fair 
condition. 

THE   " PROTEUS "   CRUSHED. 

Under  the  ever  quickly  changing,  but  now  favorable  condition  of 
the  leads  in  the  ice.  Lieutenant  Garlington  determined  to  go  out  in  the 
harbor,  to  examine  these  and  endeavor  once  more  to  go  North.  By  his 
jfUiss  he  saw  that  "  the  pack  had  broken  and  open  lanes  of  water  had 
formed,  leading  across  Buchanan  Strait  along  Bache  Island  and  across 
Princess  Marie  Bay.  At  8  p.  M.  the  '  Proteus '  rounded  Cape  Sabine 
and  proceeded  through  the  open  leads  in  the  broken  ice  to  within  four 
miles  of  Cape  Albert,  where  the  ship  was  stopped  about  six  hundred 
yards  from  the  open  water,  and  Captain  Pike's  efforts  to  force  a  passage 
by  ramming  entirely  failed." 


is  1,1 


A? 


650 


AMKKKAN    KXPLOUATIONS    IN   TIIK    ICK   ZONKS. 


mi 


The  filial  issue  Jiow  came.  The  "Proteus"  on  arriving  next  day 
again  within  four  miles  of  Cape  Alhert,  discovered  that  the  open  liiuc 
was  now  iiUed  with  a  solid  pack ;  she  turned  southward  in  a  fruitless 
attemi)t  to  make  her  way  out ;  at  2.45,  movement  in  any  directi(»n  was 
impossible.  Ice  from  live  to  seven  feet  in  thickness  came  nga  nst  hir 
sides  an<l  then  piled  itself  U]>  on  the  floe  amidships  and  astern;  al  4..'iO 
P.  M.,  the  starboard  rail  gave  way,  the  ice  forced  its  way  through  tlu; 
ship's  side  into  the  bunker,  the  deck  planks  rose,  the  seams  opened  out; 
at  7.15  she  slowly  passed  out  of  sight  on  an  even  keel.  Alive  from  tlio 
outset  to  the  coming  crush  of  the  nip,  Lieutenants  (Jarlington  and  Cdl- 
well  and  Dr.  Harrison  had  succeeded  in  saving  one  of  the  boats  and  a 
(]uantily  of  the  stores;  the  Report  to  the  Signal  Ollicer  ullirms  that 
with  the  exception  of  the  Chief  Kngineer  of  the  "Proteus"  and  the 
Boatswain,  none  of  the  crew  of  the  "Proteus"  lent  assistance  to  this 
work,  but  em])loyed  themselves  in  opening  and  rifling  the  boxes  even 
of  })rivate  (ilothing.  With  some  of  the  stores  saved.  Lieutenant  ('(»]- 
well  made  a  cache  three  miles  west  of  Cape  Sabirie,  which  was  al'tor- 
wards  increased  by  the  two  sidereal  chronometers  and  a  (juantity  of 
clothing.     The  cache  was  intended  for  Lieutenant  Greely's  party. 


THE   BOAT   .lOUUNEV   SOUTH. 

To  render  assistance  to  Greely  being  now  impossible,  there  remained 
nothing  for  the  parties  from  the  "  Proteus  "  excei)t  the  choice  either  of 
spending  the  winter  with  the  Eskimos  or  attempting  to  cross  Melville 
Bay  in  boats.  Lieutenant  Colwell  headed  boldly  across  the  bay  to 
establish  communication  with  the  "Yantic";  the  rest  of  the  party 
started  to  coast  around  the  bay  and  reach  Upernavik ;  after  a  seveic 
Arctic  experience,  Colwell  reached  Upernavik  on  the  23d,  and  iindiiig 
that  the  "Yantic"  was  not  there,  pushed  forward  to  Godhavn  where  he 
found  the  tender,  and  gladly  learned  from  Commander  Wildes  that  on 
the  2d  of  the  mouth  at  Ui)ernavik,  he  had  received  on  board  all  of  the 
other  parties  from  the  "Proteus."  Lieutenant  Colwell's  boats  had 
spent  in  them  thirty-eight  days,  making  a  voyage  of  nearly  one  tli(ju- 
sand  miles. 


TiiK  coruT  Ml-   INgnitY. 


r,r)i 


Septeiiihcr  lo,  ('(HiiiuaiKlcr  NViliU's  trU'}^i;ipln'<l  t(»  the  Scrn'tury  of 
tln!  Navy  IVom  St.  .loliiis,  tlit-  anivul  »tl"  the  '•  Yuiitic,"  hriii^iii^Cuptiiin 
IMkc  ami  t;r»!\v  of  the  "  Proteus  "  and  Lit'iitciiaiit  (Jailiii^toii  and  tlio 
(irt'C'ly  Kclicf  Party,  (lailinj^toii  tcU'jj^ia plied  to  the  Chief  Sij^nial  Ollicer 
the  t«»tal  failiiif  of  the  Kxpeditioii  and  the  crushing  of  the  "  Proteus." 

The  history  of  this  Itelicf  Kxpedition  being  at  the;  (hitt^  of  this  writ- 
ing, a  snhj"ct  of  investigation  hefoic  a  Court  of  IiKjuiry  onU-red  by  the 
Prosi(h'nt  of  the  I'nited  States,  it  \v<tuhl  seem  luit  of  phie(!  and  prcnui- 
tnr«!  to  extend  these;  iletails.  It  is,  howtivcr,  eminently  proper  to  refer 
all  who  would  form  a  judguu-nt  of  the  voyage  of  either  the  "  Proteus  " 
or  the  "  Yantie,"  to  the  dilTerent  ex[»erienei's  of  the  Arctic  ships  which 
have  attem[)ted  this  northern  jKissage.  They  are  properly  commented 
U|>on  by  Commander  Wildes  in  his  letter  of  Oct.  1<»,  IHHJJ,  to  Hon. 
W.  K.  ('handler.  Secretary  of  the  Navy.  Tiiose  at  all  familiar  with 
Arctic  literature  will  be  slow  to  c(uulemn  either  Lieutenant  (larlingtou 
or  Comnuind(!r  Wildes;  the  first  for  his  conscientious  uttemj)t  to  go 
forward  for  the  ndief  of  (ireely,  at  u  time  when  the  open  leads  seemed 
to  make  such  a  decision  imperative  :  or  the  second  IVu"  not  pressing 
forward  his  shij)  well  kiutwn  to  be  ill-Htted  for  severe  Arctic  ex[»er- 
iences.  Commander  Wildes  has  justly  said:  *•  I  did  not  intend  to  run 
the  vessel  under  my  c(unmand  in  the  haphazard,  hap|>y-go-lu(ky  fashion 
which  linally  brought  the  'Proteus'  to  grief;  but  to  uud<e  sure,  so  far 
as  possible,  of  every  step  which  I  took.  I  was  goveriu'd  by  what  I 
have  previously  stated  in  regard  to  the  ])ossibilities  of  Melville  Bay 
and  the  probabilities  of  our  being  beset  in  the  |tack.  Once  involved  in 
ice,  I  knew  we  would  be  helpless,  and  our  imprisonment  of  indelinite 
duration.*" 

*  Tho  Koporls  of  Mr.  Beebo  (Signal  Service  Notes,  \o.  V.)  and  of  Lieutenant  (lar- 
iington,  No.  X.,  together  with  the  Letters  from  the  Hon.  Secretaries  of  the  War  and  Navy, 
and  the  Proceedings  of  the  Army  Court  of  Inquiry,  in  session  at  tins  thite.  will  present 
all  the  facts  in  the  history  of  an  Expedition  located  In  the  best  interests  of  Science,  and 
deprived  of  relief  only  by  the  unfavorable  condition  of  the  ice  in  the  northern  straits  for 
the  two  sununers,  which  followed  the  very  opposite  conditions  which  favored  the  party 
going  out  under  Greely  himself.  This  fickleness  presents  nothing  new  to  the  readers  of 
Arctic  voyages.  They  will  hope  that  the  sununer  of  1884  will  offer  free  passage  to  a  well- 
equipped  party  who  will  find  the  long-absent  observers  under  Greely  safe,  through  their 
endurance  of  three  Arctic  winters. 


n: 


:  i, 


I 


;  < 


If 


652 


AMKItKJAN    KXI'LOKATIONS    IN    TIIK    WK   /.lOIKS. 


TIIK   STATION    NKAK    POINT    IJAIMIONV,    ALASKA. 

For  llio  cstablislinHMit  of  a  station  in  a  forciirn  land  an  Act  of  ('dti- 
prcss  was  ncccssaiy,  hut  the  location  of  an  oUscrviiij;  party  in  Alusk.i 
was  made  nndcr  the  j^cneral  power  of  the  Siujnal  Ollicer  to  fstahlish 
stations  in  the  I'nited  States. 

\\y  direction  of  tlie  .Sceietary  of  War,  the  ( 'hief  Si^Mial  ( Xhccr  intrnslcd 
this  Kxpcdition  to  the  charjj^e  of  First  Licntenant  I*.  II.  Itay,  Hth  In- 
fantry, at  the  ilate  of  .June  "24, 1H81,  Acting'  Sijjfiial  Ollliecr.  LitMilcnant 
Kay's  party  consisted  «if  Acting-Assistant  Snrgeon  (J.  S.  Oldniixon,  with 
three  Serjeants  and  ei<;ht  snhordinates.  I  lis  onh'rs  were  to  sail  as 
soon  as  j)ractical)h!  from  San  Francisco  and  establish  a  permanent  Sta- 
tion near  Point  Harrow.  Special  instrnctions  in  regard  to  the  meteom- 
logical,  magnetic,  ti<hd,  pendnhnn  and  other  observations  and  for  the 
c<»lle(!tion  of  specimens  for  the  National  Mnstnim  were;  placed  in  tlu; 
Lientenant's  hands.  lie  was  informed  that  it  was  designed  to  visit 
the  permanent  Station  by  steam  or  sailing  vessel  in  1882,  '8^5,  and  '84. 

May's  party  sailed  from  San  Francisco  in  the  steamer  "  GohhMi 
Fleece,"  .Inly  18,  1881. 

On  the  15th  of  September  he  wrote  to  General  Ilazeu  from  Ooglaa- 
mie,  Alaska :  — 

"  Snt,  —  I  hiive  the  honor  to  roirort  that  the  Expedition  arrived  at  this  plai-t!  on 
the  8th  inst.,  and  after  a  careful  survey  found  the  most  suitahl(>  place  for  the  Station 
to  be  on  the  northeast  side  of  a  small  inlet,  which  I  have  named  (Holden  Flcoei-. 
about  eiglit  miles  from  the  extreme  northern  point  of  Point  Barrow,  there  beinjj  no 
high  land  between  here  and  there  and  all  the  intermediate  country  being  intersp«T.s('il 
with  small  lakes  and  Lagoons;  the  oiiiy  liigh  gi-ound  at  Point  Barrow  is  occupied  by 
an  Indian  village.  The  point  adjacent  to  Point  Barrow,  where  Maeguire,  II.  N.  lijul 
his  observatory.  Is,  I  am  told,  submerged  durhig  western  gales.  On  theopposit(!  sidi? 
of  the  ink:,  about  one  and  a  half  miles  away  is  the  Indian  village  of  Ooglaamie. 
from  which  I  have  named  the  Observatory.  The  voyage  has  been  a  long  one  and 
l)artieularly  a  trying  one  upon  the  party,  as  a  heavy  gaU;  was  encountered  off  Cipt; 
Lisburne,  driving  us  out  of  our  course  to  the  north  and  west.  And  there  will  still  be 
more  or  less  suffering  before  I  can  get  quarters  up,  as  the  ground  is  now  covered 
with  snow;  ice  is  foi'ining  rapidly  on  tlu!  iulet  and  lakes,  and  the  cargo  was  landed 
with  extreme  difficulty,  as  it  had  to  be  done  on  an  open  beach;  and  for  two  d;iYs 
through  a  heavy  surf  which  often  half  filled  our  boats  in  landing,  the  spray  freezing 
where  it  struck,  and  the  vessel  liable  to  be  driven  out  to  sea  at  any  hour.    On  the 


TIIK   r,K<». 


V2lh  a  Hnmll  wlifirf  wns  built,  nnd  lliiit  i;;lit  fortiinatnly,  tlio  wind  nml  hdi  ahjitod 
and  tlio  Imliinor  of  the  air;j;o  w:ih  liind<'d  on  tin;  l.'Uli  and  1  llli.  tlm  nativcH  n'nd«'rin^ 
vnliiahlo  a-ssistancc  wilii  tiirii-  ooniiulis.  Kvi-rytltin;;  is  now  on  tli«<  Itracli  abovo 
liiiCli  lidi'-niark,  notliin;;  daina<;i!d  or  broltcn  of  anv  iniiKn-tanct'  so  far  as  I  can  lintl 
onl.  It  is  iittct'ly  ini|)ossii)l<!  for  nut  to  statt!  now  wiiat  may  liavr  iu'cn  oniittt'd  with 
tli()  tinu-  I  liavo  ;;ot,  as  I  cannot  detain  tlic  vessel  for  fear  slm  may  itc  frozen  in  iic- 
fon;  passinj,!;  Hcriii;;  Straits;  I  will  ordy  he  ai)|c  to  clieclx  and  cornu't  as  I  put  my 
st<)i'(!H  in  the  luiildin};.  I  liavo  no  (;lian<;es  to  reconnnend  as  to  the  m«uni)crs  of  tho 
party. 

"From  what  Professor  HainI  said  to  some  meml>ers  of  the  party,  I  tind  tliat  he 
expected  me  to  procure!  specimens  of  nativt;  arms,  iioats,  impleiuents,  etc.  As  ilicse 
an*  of  v.ahic  to  the  natives  they  will  have  to  he  pnrchased  in  trade,  and  as  t  iiavc  not 
a  snlVicii-nt  supply  for  that  piu'pose,  liavin<;  only  tal<en  tinouj^h  to  purchase  fresh 
meat  and  to  hire  boats  and  laixtr  in  landing,  I  respectfully  ask  that  I  may  he  in- 
structed in  the  matter. 

"  In  my  report  from  Plover  Hay,  I  mentioned  the  necessity  of  the  vessel  next 
y«!ar  sailinji:  from  San  Francisco  at  an  earlier  ilate  than  the  Iv\p(;dilion  this  year;  tho 
s(!vere  experience  of  tho  last  fifteen  days  coiilirms  my  impressions  of  that  dilo. 
Ilav«!  not  .s«!en  tlu^  sun  since  I  have  been  here.  I  <;ive  tint  latitude;  and  lonj^itiule  by 
dead  ruckoning  from  my  own  lo;;-book  —  lat.  71     17   .V)"  N.,  lonj;.  lotJ    'J.">    li'>"  W." 


^ 


f 


lUOMKI-'    KXI'KDITION    TO    I'OINT    M.AItltOW. 

Jmic  24,  iHSi',  F.iiMilciiiiiit  J.  S.  Powell,  F.  S.  A.,  sailrd  from  Sjiti 
KiaiiiMSco  in  the  sclntoiicr  "  Leo,"  (Mic  himdrcd  and  (il'ty  toii.^  ItiirdiMi, 
with  sti|)i)lios  lor  llic  Sit^nal  ScrviiMs  Station  OosjflaaJnie.  At  St. 
Mi(!luiel,  July  -('»,  I*o\voll  shipped  as  caltin-hoy  a  native  naini'd  Kan-n- 
ark, to  net  as  interitreter  and  iiiessun<^or.  'i'his  was  orte(;t<'(l  oidy  alter 
iniic'h  persuasion.  The  news  ol"  the  loss  of  the  "■  .leanin.'tte "'  havinuf 
aheady  reached  the  ])oople,  they  seemed  loath  to  venture  abroad  in  tho 
white  man's  shi[)S.  "'riie  simple  native  of  these  shores,"  says  I'owc;!!, 
"when  he  sees  the  mighty  oomiuks  of  the  white  man  <^o  away  in  tho 
ufloom  of  th(!  mysterious  North,  refuses  to  vtjntiire  within  the  reacth  of 
the  baleful  power  of  tlui  ley  North." 

On  reaehiiif^  lierino;  Sea,  u  heavy  o-aU;  from  the  Norlb  was  exi)or- 
ieneed  with  weather  too  thicik  to  make  headway  toward  tlu!  straits. 
Tho  "  Leo  "  for  several  days  lay  without  sij^ht  of  land  or  sun  about  four 
miles  from  the  entranee  of  Plover  May  ;  the  fog  clearing,  she  was  towed 
iil>  the  bay  by  the  U.S.  Revenue  Cutter  "  Corwiii,"  Captain  J.  T. 
Ilealy,  and  again  brought  out  to  sea  by  the  same  shij). 


f 
is 


r.54 


AMKICMAN    KXI'LOUATIONS    IN    THE    ICK  ZONl-^*. 


rassiiij;  tlin>ii};li  a  reiu-wiil  of  dciistf  fo^s  and  of  a  heavy  j^iiU',  (he 
Hhiji  lay  at  aiudior  throe  thiys  at  I'dit  (Man-iice,  ami  thiMice  passed 
thr(tu;,'h  the  strait  ami  (-rosscd  the  Arctic  Circh'.  On  the  llth,  ('ap<; 
Lislmnu'  was  si^^htrd  iiii(h'r  the  t'X|K'rioU('('  (if  aii(tth«'r  heavy  ifalc;  luit 
at  1-  M.  (Ill  the  iHth,  Powell  was  in  a  ealni,  hm^'.  l.")H  ;")()  \V.,  hit.  71 
'J,\'  N.,  and  at  H  of  the  same  (hiy,  a  southeast  hree/.e  sjnaiij;'  n|i  whidi 
I'owell  thoii<,dit  would  (luickly  hear  the  ship  ti»  I'oiiit  Harrow.  'I'lic 
next  morning  lie  was  surprised  to  tiiid  himseli'  coiislderaldy  to  tlie 
northeast  ol' it,  hy  the  action  of  a  stroiiijf  northeast  current.  On  land- 
in<^  at  the  Station  Auj^nst  20,  Lieutenant  Kay  conlinned  the  ohscrva- 
tioiis  of  this  current,  adilint^  that  had  it  hecoim;  calm,  the  "l^eo"  mii;lit 
have  (hii'ted  to  the  northeast  and  heen  crushed  l>y  ice;  the  vessels 
caujijit  in  this  current  move  oil"  to  the  northeast  and  not  a  piece  of 
timher  ever  returns. 

I'owell  says  in  liis  Ueport  (Sifrnal  Service  Notes,  No.  X.):  — 

"Tilt!  prosiHH'l  from  tlu!  stntion,  (^vcn  in  suniiin'r,  wlifii  it  is  !it  its  ln'st,  i-;  inoiiot- 
onons  !iii(l  iiniiivilin;^,  iuitl  in  wintor  it,  nin-<t  !>«  tln-iiry  inilnoil.  TIk'  tnntlr.i  >i»i(;i(Is 
!i\v;iy  level  Miitl  Imiwn,  reli(!V«(l  hen;  iiiid  llicn;  by  ivUclies  (if  sickly  fxrcen.  ;:iittere(i 
in  all  <lin;ctir)ns  l)y  shallow  wator-coarsos,  and  coveretl  with  snuill  slmllow  pnnjs, 
while  at  no  point  witliin  vi(?w  docs  it  ntuch  an  chivation  of  lifly  feet  :\li()ve  the  le\el 
of  the  se.'i.  Vejjetation  is  very  scanty,  eonsistinjj^  chielly  of  moss  ;inil  lichens  .nul 
oth(M' cryptojjiimoiis  <;fo\vths.  with  occasional  piitehos  of  hai'd.  wiry  <,'r;iss.  ami  a  few 
simple  llowcrs.  'I'he  only  slnMih  to  be  foiinil  is  the  dwarf  willow,  which,  insfeaii  nf 
jri'owinir  in  an  erect  position,  creeps  .nlonp:  under  the  moss  as  if  tryin;;  to  hide  fiom 
tho  inclement  hl.asts,  and  in  snmmer,  it  shoots  forth  its  pi-etty  roscscoloreil  catskins 
and  fireon  lo:ivos  throuj^h  its  mossy  covcrinfj  in  a  timid  and  hesitatinj;  maimer,  as  if 
aware  of  the  uncon^jfcnial  character  of  its  surronndinjjs. 

*'  l)arin<;  ei<xht  months  of  tho  year  the  earth  is  frozen,  and  diirinj;  the  remaininij 
four  it  thaws  to  the  depth  of  ii  foot  from  the  surface,  but  below  that  dejitli  it  is  per- 
manently frozen  to  :in  unknown  tleptli,  probably  one  hundred  and  lifly  to  two  hun- 
«lred  feet.  It  is  a  desolate  l;ind,  int«'restin<j[  no  ilonbt,  but  destitute  of  btiauty,  one  in 
which  the  sfrnjrfjhf  for  existence,  both  by  animal  and  ve^retahle  life,  is  (»f  tin;  hardest, 
where  the  :is])ects  of  nature  are  harsh  without  p:randour  and  desolate  without  bein;; 
picturesipie,  and  wlier*;  the  de.ad  level  of  monotony  every  where  prevails,  the  i^reatest 
variety  beinij  in  the  lenjitli  of  days  and  ni<j;hts,  which  vary  about  seventy-two  days 
to  .about  as  many  minutes. 

"The  year  is  divided  into  seasons,  —  a  winter  oiijht  months  Ion;:?  and  a  rather 
uncertain  summer  of  four  months.  Tlie  latter  season,  if  summer  it  can  bo  called,  is 
only  such  by  contrast  with  the  procedinfj  winter,  for  the  temperature  rarely  reaches 
CO  ,  and  at  any  time  a  snow-storm  may  occur.  'Snow  fell  on  every  day  wo  were  at 


ADVANCK   IMI'OSSIIM.K. 


655 


passt'd 

[ll,  Vi\]M) 

)il(>:  hut 
,  hit.  71 
ip  wliicli 
\v.     Tlic 

V  to  tlu! 
)n  laiid- 
oltscrva- 
•  **  iiiii;lit 

V  vessels 


[,  'w  inoiiot- 
\v;\  >i»r(!i(ls 
n.  ;:Mttcrf(l 
ll(i\V  ivxils, 
(•  the  lfv«!l 

icllCIIS    Mllll 
Mill  !l   fl'W 

,  iiisti';nl  nf 
)  lii(l(!  froiu 
ctl  cat^kins 
uinci".  as  if 

rcniiiininij; 
it  is  i)(M'- 
()  two  liun- 
iity,  one  in 

K!  hiinli'st. 

lotit  bt'inj; 

10  irreaU'st 

-two  iliiys 

nd  a  r.itlior 
0  called,  is 
(>ly  roaches 
wc  were  at 


station.  Tlio  lowest  tctiipeniinn!  exporioncod  at  tlio  stiitiim  was  00'  Iwlow  zero. 
I)nrin<;  (Jeiitenanl  I'owell'.s  stay  tlicru  wu8  but  onu  day  only  un  which  thu  utin  tthuiiu 
suniciently  tu  tu.aku  oliMoi'valions." 

Of  till'  ietj  he  says  :  — 

"The  soil  ut  I'oint  Harrow  does  not  freezo  to  ii  fjroaler  depth  than  six  or  seven 
feet;  th«t  icuwitii  wliicli  it  is  tilled  comes  from  a  distanctsand  is  ^renerally  ii  uiixtiiro 
of  new  iinti  old  worn  ice.  Tiiere  is  nothing  in  this  si^a  approachin;;  an  iceher<;.  Ittit 
.still  some  very  respi'otuble  mass«?s  uro  formetl,  especially  near  the  coast,  where  tho 
pressin'o  of  tlm  moving  tloes  from  without  is  met  by  the  resistance  of  the  land,  and 
hu;;e  fields  of  ico  are  driven  over  each  other  until  they  become  jifroiiniled  in  water 
froiM  lifteon  to  twenty  fathoms  deep  anti  are  piled  up  some  forty  or  lifly  foot.  No 
doubt  the  jrrandeur  and  sublimity  <;iven  to  Arctic  .scenery  l)y  the  immensity  of  ice- 
ber;;.-  are  here  wanting,  but  tius  immensity  of  |M)wer  displayed  by  tin;  chaotic  Jundde 
of  these  enormous  ice  ma.sses  is  more  cidculated  to  impress  the  mind  than  tlie  mere 
bulii  of  lofty  bergs  that  stiul  the  .seas  on  tins  eastern  side  of  the  coiUinenl.  The 
broken  tloes  are  thrown  together  in  every  conceivable  position,  and  at  every  possi- 
ble Inclination  of  .surface,  in  a  profusion  of  irrogidarily,  of  which  no  languagt;  can 
convc^y  an  adequate  idea,  jvnd  which  nuist  neeils  be  seen  to  be  appreciated. 

"  Travelling  over  such  a  surface  as  this  is  next  to  impossible,  and  men  without 
enciunbrances  could  possibly  advance  eight  or  ten  miles  in  a  day.  but  if  laden  with 
food  or  otherwise,  their  progress  would  be  far  less  than  this  —  heavy  ice-sleds  would 
be  almost  impossible.  Wherever  there  is  land  there  is  always  an  ice-foot  —  a  nar- 
row strip  of  level  ice  .along  the  coast,  over  which  sled-travel  can  be  easily  carried 
on,  or  in  narrow  chaimels  without  ciuTonts,  when  tlui  ice  may  hv  comparatively 
.smooth,  l)Ut  in  tho  open  sea,  at  a  distan(!(!  from  land,  such  tr.avel  need  never  be  at- 
tempted by  any  means  now  at  our  command,  for  nothing  but  failure  will  attend  such 
atteni])ts.  The  fringe  of  groundtid  ice  along  th(^  Point  Harrow  coast  follows  an  irreg- 
ular line,  more  or  less  distant  from  the  shore,  depending  on  the  depth  of  tho  water, 
and  varies  from  three  to  live  miles  in  width. 

"  Heyond  tho  groundetl  line,  the  stu'faco  of  the  liunnnocks  and  Hoes  is  Just  as 
rough  .and  uneven  as  it  is  everywhere  else,  but  there  is  always  more  or  less  change 
going  on  —  sometimes  slowly  .and  sometimes  rapidly.  Although  to  the  eye  the  broad 
expanse  of  jumbled  ice-hummoeks  seems  :is  stable  as  the  .solid  land,  tho  stability  is 
oidy  app;irent;  .a  kind  of  vibr;itory  motion  takes  place  from  time  to  time;  the  press- 
ure increases  and  decreases  alternately;  currents  set  in,  and  the  whole  body  of  tho 
ice  seems  to  oscillate  to  .and  fro,  so  th.at  it  is  seldom  that  the  peculiar  noises  occa- 
sioned bv  the  grinding  .and  crushing  to<rether  of  the  slowly  moving  m.asses  cannot  be 
htiard.  This  song  of  the  icy  sea  is  a  very  peculiar  one,  and  can  scarcely  be  dcsscribed 
so  as  to  convc^y  any  clear  idea  of  its  nature.  It  is  not  loud,  yet  it  can  be  he.art'i  to  a 
gre.at  «listanc,o;  it  is  neither  a  surge  nor  a  sw.ash,  but  a  kind  of  slow,  crashing,  groan- 
ing, shrieking  sound,  in  which  sharp,  silvery  tinklings  mingle  with  the  low  thunder- 
uus  undertone  of  a  rushing  tempest.     It  impresses  onu  with  the  idea  of  nearness  and 


'Hi 
!: 

I  Li 


J*.' 


1 


566 


AMERICAN   EXPLORATIONS   IN    THE   ICE   ZONES. 


ti 


I:.,- 

lit"- 
iii'i  • 


distance  at  the  same  time,  and  also  that  of  immense  forces  in  conflict.    Whun  tliis 
confused  fantasia  is  lieard  from  afar,  througli  tlie  stillness  of  this  Arctic  zone,  the 
('flTect  is  strangely  weird  ami  solemn  —  as  if  it  Avere  the  distant  hum  of  an  active 
living  world  breaking  across  the  boundaries  of  silence,  solitude  and  death." 

AUKOKAS  AND  TIIEIU  INFLUENCE  ON  THE  MAGNET. 

"  A  description  of  auroral  display,  furnished  me  by  members  of  the  party,  would 
lead  me  to  suppose  that  no  known  iwrtlon  of  the  globe  surpasses  Point  Barrow,  and 
few  equal  it  in  the  intensity  and  brilliancy  of  tliese  displays.  The  brilliancy  of  the 
displays  bears  no  proportion  to  their  number.  It  was  only  occasioniiUy  that  great 
splendor  and  magnilioence  were  reached,  and  the  duration  of  the  greatest  brilliancv 
was  only  brief,  compared  with  that  of  the  display  of  which  it  formed  a  part.  Indi- 
vidual auroras  often  lasted  ten  or  twelve  hours  or  more,  but  the  great  bursts  of 
splendor  and  motion  seldom  lasted  more  than  thirty  minutes,  and  often  did  not  con- 
tinue even  so  long;  but  while  they  lasted  they  were  magnificent,  indeed.  On  such 
occasions  the  sky  became  a  gorgeous  canopy  of  flames,  all  splendor,  color  and  motion ; 
an-h,  column,  and  banner  flashed  and  faded ;  silvery  rays,  with  rosy  bases  and  fringcid 
with  gold  or  emerald  green,  danced  and  whirled  around  the  zenith,  and  broad  cur- 
tains of  ligiit  flung  across  the  sky  in  every  form  of  graceful  curve  and  convolution, 
shook  rainbow  tints  from  every  fold,  until  the  beholder  became  bewildered  and  lost 
in  the  dazzling  brilliancy. 

"  In  lower  latitudes,  the  aurora  is  mostly  seen  as  a  luminous  ai-ch  extending 
across  the  nortliern  sky.  At  Point  Barrow,  the  arched  form,  though  common,  was  not 
the  prevalent  one,  and  the  arches  that  .  ppeared  were  seldom  perfect,  or  if  so,  only 
for  a  few  moments  at  a  time,  and  the  changes  of  form  were  so  incessant  that 't  was 
hard  to  decide  which  was  the  prevailing  tjpe.  The  cu  "tain  form,  mostly  brokei.,  but 
always  convoluted  and  folded  on  itself  like  aii  immense  scroll,  was  a  common  form, 
but  whatever  the;  form,  the  phenomena  passed  over  the  sky  in  a  succession  of  waves, 
sometimes  from  north  to  south  and  vice  versa.  Intimately  connected  with  the  aurora 
was  the  disturbance  of  the  magnetic  needle  —  in  fact,  during  the  prevalence  of  the 
aurora,  thi  magnets  were  in  a  state  of  chronic  perturbation,  especially  during  the 
great  displays,  rhen  they  were  often  so  disturbed  that  some  of  them  could  not  be 
'•ead." 

"  ILaving  turned  over  all  supplies  to  Lieutenant  Ray,  Suiiday,  August  27,  and  re- 
lieved from  iluty  imder  my  charge  Sergeant  Joseph  E.  jNIaxfield  and  Privates  Ciiarles 
Ancor  and  John  A.  Guzman,  and  receiving  all  mail  destined  for  the  United  States, 
preparations  were  m.ade  to  leave  this  dreary  region  —  a  region  which  seems  to  me  to 
be  one  in  which  the  bright  sunshine  of  hope  enters  with  a  light  so  subdued  that  it 
is  but  the  gleam  from  a  far  distant  planet  iienetrating  the  cavern  of  ceaseless  solitude 
and  woe. 

*'  By  reason  of  the  severity  of  the  climate,  Sergeant  James  Cassidy  was  re- 
lieved by  Lieutenant  Kay  from  duty  at  Oogiaamie,  and  returned  with  me  to  San 
Francisco. 


NEWS   OF    PUTNAM. 


557 


**  Anchor  was  weighed  at  2  p.  M.,  Sunday,  and  our  homeward  voyage  begun  in  n 
snow-storm.  Heavy  drift-ice  was  moving  r.apidly  to  the  southwest.  This  ice  was 
of  very  peculiar  construction  and  of  varied  tints,  with  lieiglit  from  tln-ee  to  tliirty 
feet.  Before  the  gale  began,  wiiich  was  previously  mentioned  as  occurring  on  the 
2-4th,  the  ice  began  drifting  from  the  northeast,  in  a  contrary  direction  to  its  usual 
course,  .ind  I  judged  from  the  movement  on  Sunday,  beinu;  identically  the  same,  wo 
would  have  another  gale  from  the  same  quarter.  My  judgment  was  correct;  for, 
on  Monday,  the  gale  commenced  in  earnest.  We  passed  Point  Belcher  at  9  A.  M., 
August  28,  and  Icy  Cape  at  1 1  i'.  M.,  reached  East  Capo,  Asia,  Saturday,  September 
20,  and  lay  th  're  ^unilay  and  Monday.  There  is  (juite  a  large  village  located  at 
East  Cape,  and  the  natives  liave  a  regularly  installed  cliief — the  only  ])lace  wo 
visited  whei'e  we  found  a  chief.  We  sailed  from  East  Cape  to  the  Diomedes  Islands, 
reaching  there  in  a  gale  from  the  East.  Left  the  Diomedes  at  twelve  midnight, 
boimd  for  St.  Lawrence  Bay,  and  auihored  inside  the  harbor  at  3  r.  M.  next  day. 
Tliis  bay  is  full  of  historic  reminisce  .s  connected  with  the  burning  of  the  U.  S. 
steamer  *  llodgers,'  of  the  Jeannette  Relief  Expedition.  The  natives  came  o;i  board 
clothed  in  some  of  the  apparel  left  them  by  tiie  oHicers  antl  crow  of  this  ill-fated 
vessel.  Several  had  recommendations  from  the  Rodgers  party,  and  in  compliance 
with  requests  made  therein,  each  one  w.as  supplied  with  tobacco,  bread  and  molasses. 
w  le  of  the  natives  describeil  to  me  the  accident  which  befell  Master  Putnam  of  the 
Navy,  and  stated  that  some  time  after  the  ice-tloe,  bearing  Putnam,  drifted  out  to 
sea,  a  southeasterly  wind  brougiit  the  fioe  back  to  shore,  and  ho  saw  the  remains  of 
Putnam  on  it,  his  face  and  hands  much  discolored  and  the  body  swollen.  The  ice 
did  not  remain  long,  but  floated  out  ag.ain,  moving  toward  the  Arctic. 

"We  left  St.  Lawrence  Bay  on  September  S,  ;ind  reached  Plover  Bay  on  lltli, 
at  2  r.  M,  Owing  to  cloudiness,  I  failed  to  get  an  observation  of  the  sun  on  that  d:\y. 
On  Tuesd.ay  the  9th,  I  left  the  vessel  for  shore  at  7.30  A.  m.,  but  had  to  wait  an  liour 
for  the  fog  to  rise.  Succeeded  in  getting  two  sights,  but  had  to  suspend  operations, 
as  the  rain  began  to  fall.  It  cleared  up  sufficiently  by  the  afternoon  to  secure  six 
sights  through  the  clouds  —  three  upper  and  ihree  lower  limb. 

We  sailed  from  Plover  Bay  September  13,  for  Fort  St.  jNIichaers,  to  return  the 
native,  Kan-u-ark,  who  shipped  with  us  at  that  place.  Shortly  after  leaving  Plover 
Bay  a  gale  sprang  up,  which  compelled  us  to  alter  our  course  and  run  to  the  south 
of  St.  Lawrence  Island.  At  .')  v.  M.  of  the  14th,  the  shij)  struck  a  reef  of  hidden 
rocks,  not  marked  on  chart,  about  six  miles  south  of  the  island.  For  a  wliile  it 
looked  as  if  we  would  winter  in  this  region,  or  else  go  to  the  bottom.  The  heavy 
sea  favored  the  vessel  in  getting  oft'.  The  i)unips  were  manned,  and,  to  our  satis- 
faction, we  found  but  little  water  making.  INI.ado  St.  ^Micliael's  Septcimbm-  17.  While 
at  this  place  I  made  informal  inspection  of  the  Signal  OHico.  Left  St.  Michaera  on 
the  20th.  .and  touched  at  Goioviu  Lay  same  date.  On  the  28th  of  September,  in 
Bering  Sea,  the  barometer  commenced  falling  rapidh',  and  a  fierce  gale  sprang  up 
from  the  East,  which  soon  blew  with  so  much  violence  that  wo  were  obliged  to  take 
in  all  our  canvas  and  heave  lo  under  a  tlouble-reefed  mainsail  and  foresail.  We 
expected  by  the  next  day  that  it  would  have  blown  itself  out  and  the  worst  bo  over, 


558 


AMERICAN    KXI'LOUATFONS   IX   THE   ICE   ZONES. 


but  it  only  incrensed  in  fury,  and  for  the  next  <l:iy,  and  the  next,  and  for  full  five,  we 
were  tossed  to  and  fro,  at  the  mercy  of  such  a  storm  as  I  hope  1  shall  never  a<'ain 
exi)erience.  By  the  time  the  storm  was  over,  the  entire  party  were  worn  out  and 
the  i)atience  exhibited  under  such  circumstances  certainly  became  a  virtue.  We 
passed  through  Uniniak  l^iss  on  the  oth  of  Octoljcr.  Our  voyage  from  thence  across 
the  Pacilic  to  San  Francisco  was,  on  the  whole,  favorable,  and  we  reached  the  latter 
place  October  2." 

ray's    RETURN. 

Lieutenant  Kay's  party  were  unfortunately  recalled  by  a  positive 
enactment  of  Congress  at  its  Session  of  1882-83.  They  arrived  at 
Washington  in  October  1883. 

The  full  Rei)ort  of  the  work  executed  at  Ooglaamie  is  being  pre- 
pared by  the  Lieutenant,  while  these  sheets  are  passing  through  the 
press ;  his  reductions  of  tlie  observations  made  and  arrangement  of 
other  material  will  probably  require  a  period  of  some  months,  and  will 
be  i)ublished  by  the  Chief  Signal  Officer.  They  will  be  looked  for  witli 
much  interest. 


INCIDENTAL  BENEFITS  OF  EXPLORATION. 

A  most  important  gain  resulting  frc  "  \rctic  exploration  is  the  ex- 
tension of  geographical  knowledge  by  ■  -v  -  scoveries  which  have  added 
a  large  surface  to  our  maps  and  charts.  hey  have  done  more.  The 
discoveries  have  increased  the  domain  of  civilization  and  commerce, 
bringing  under  English  rule  a  new  and  large  section  of  the  American 
Continent,  and  opening  up  the  acquisition  of  Alaska  by  the  United 
States.  To  cite  the  language  of  Hon.  Judge  Daly,  President  of  the 
American  Geographical  Society  :  — 

"  Explorations  for  the  discovery  of  the  Northwest  Passage,  and  those  sent  out  for 
the  relief  of  Sir  John  Franklin  or  other  absent  explorers,  resulted  in  the  discovery  of 
that  great  region  lying  within  the  Arctic  Circle  between  60°  and  130"  west  longitiule 
up  to  Cape  Parry  71"  23'  west  longitude,  and  77"  6'  north  latitude ;  or,  from  Davis  Strait 
to  Cape  Rathurst;  embracing  Banks,  Prince  Albert,  and  Prince  Patrick's  Lands,  Mel- 
ville Island  and  Sound,  McClintock's  Channel,  Bathurst  Island,  Victoria,  Prince  of 
Wales,  and  King  William  Land,  Boothia,  andGulf  of  Boothia,  North  Somerset,  North 
Devon,  Melville  Peninsula,  Cockburn  Island,  Grinnell,  EUesmere,  and  Washington 
Lands,  Lancaster,  Eclipse,  and  Jones'  Sounds,  Wellington  Channel,  Kellett,  Barrow 


RESULTS   OF   EXPLORATIONS. 


559 


Straits,  Franklin  Straits,  Peel,  Sir  James  Ross,  anil  the  Fiiry  anil  Ileda  Straits,  Ke- 
gent's  Inlet,  and  the  discovery  iu  1833,  by  Sir  James  Koss,  of  the  North  Magnetic 
Pole.' " 

To  these  discoveries  in  the  West  are  to  be  added  the  lalids  ontl-'  ig 
the  Siberian  Coasts,  now,  for  the  first  time  in  the  world's  history, 
circumnavigated.  Tlie  Circumpolar  Maj)  to  be  found  in  the  pocket  of 
the  volume  shows  tlie  chief  localities  visited  and  the  names  of  the 
explorers,  the  latest  American  visits  being  noticed. 


At  a  meeting  of  the  Royal  Geographical  Society,  in  18G5,  Captain 

Sherard  Osborn  said:  — 

"  In  the  year  1818  Baflin's  discoveries  on  the  one  hand  and  those  of  Berinj^  upon 
the  other,  with  dots  for  the  moutlis  of  the  Mackenzie  and  Ilearn  Rivers,  were  all  we 
knew  of  tlie  stran<Te  labyrinth  of  lands  and  waters  now  accurately  delineated  upon 
our  charts  of  the  Arctic  Zone.  Sailors  and  travellers  in  thirty-six  years  have  accom- 
plished all  this;  not  always,  l)e  it  rememi)ored,  in  well-stored  ships,  sailing  rapidly 
from  point  to  point,  but  for  the  most  part  by  patient  toiling  on  foot,  or  coasting  in 
open  boats  round  every  bay  and  fiord.  Sir  Leopold  ISIcClintock  tells  the  Royal 
Dublin  Society  that  he  estimates  the  foot  explorations  accomplished  in  the  search  for 
Franklin  alone  at  about  forty  thousand  miles.  Yet  durin'j;  liiose  thirty-six  years  of 
glorious  cnterpi-ise  by  ship,  by  boat,  and  by  sledge,  England  only  fairlj'  lost  one  ex- 
pedition and  one  hundred  and  twenty-eight  souls  out  of  forty-two  sticcessive  expedi- 
tions, and  has  never  lost  a  sledge  party  out  of  about  one  hundred  that  have  toiled 
within  the  Arctic  Circle.  Siiow  me  upon  the  globe  an  equal  amount  of  geographical 
discovery,  or  in  history  as  arduous  achievement,  with  a  smaller  amount  of  human 
sacrifice,  and  then  I  will  concede  that  Arctic  Exploration  has  entailed  more  tiian  its 
due  amount  of  suffering." 

At  one  of  the  meetings  of  the  American  Geograi)hical  Societ}'  of 
New  York,  Mr.  Henry  Grinnell  rej)lied  to  questions  of  like  character 
by  stating  some  of  the  results  in  the  extension  of  commerce  and 
trade  :  — 

"  1.  ciir  n.  Gilbert's  discovery  of  the  cod  fisheries  of  Newfoundland. 

"2.  From  Davis'  discoveries  the  great  whale  fisheries  of  the  West. 

"3.  From  the  discoveries  of  Hudson  (who  also  discovered  and  sailed  into  our 
Nortii  River,  which  now  bears  his  name,  while  on  an  Arctic  voyage,),  Hudson's 
Ray,  and  the  operations  of  the  great  fur  companies. 

"  4.  Sir  John  Ross ;  the  vvh:i.le  fishery  of  the  North  and  northwest  of  Batlin's  Hay. 

"  5.  (^aptain  Parry ;  whale  lishery  of  Lancaster  Sound,  Barrow  Strait,  and  Prince 
Regent's  Inlet. 


^1 


"1 


it 


i 


r 


560 


AMKUICAN    EXI'LOKATIONS    LN    THK    ICE   ZONES. 


"  6.  Admiral  Beechey ;  whale  lishery  of  Bering  Straits,  in  which,  in  the  space  of 
two  years,  the  whalers  of  Nantucket  an'l  New  Bedford  obtained  cargoes  from  which 
it  is  said  they  have  realized  oigiit  millions  of  dollars." 

In  addition  to  the  last  of  these  statements  from  Mr.  Grinneli,  in 
wliich  he  refers  to  the  discoveries  by  Admiral  Beechey,  K.  N.,  must  be 
taken  into  account  the  later  and  still  more  profitable  explorations  made 
by  the  officers  of  the  American  Navy  and  Merchant  Marine.  By  these 
explorations  the  safety  and  success  of  the  whaling  fleets  have  been  very 
materially  forwarded. 

"  Far  beyond  the  profits  of  the  whale  fisheries  also  is  to  be  placed 
the  daily  increasing  value  of  the  trade  in  the  fur-seal  and  seal-otter 
skins  to  the  merchant  companies,  and  the  revenue  derived  from  these 
to  the  U.  S.  Government.  Ten  years  ago,  the  gross  value  of  the  fur 
trade  of  Alaska  exceeded  one  million  dollars.  The  revenue  of  tlie 
U.  S.  Government  from  the  seal-islands  alone  was  $300,000  per  annum. 
For  the  last  ten  years  respectively,  the  revenue  per  annum  as  stated  on 
the  books  of  the  Treasury  Department  lias  been  the  following :  — 

Table  of  Revkxuk  from  the  Alaska  Fisheries. 


Year. 

Tax  oil  Sealskins. 

Rent. 

Total. 

1873 

*2r)2,181.12 

.$.55,000.00 

$307,181.12 

1874 

301,010.42 

.55,000.00 

350,010.42 

1875 

202,494.75 

.55,000.00 

317.494.75 

1876 

2()2,584.00 

55,fAX).00 

317,584.00 

1877 

230,155.50 

.55.JtK).lX) 

291,1.55..50 

1878 

198.255.75 

55,000.  (K) 

253,255.75 

1879 

202.447.50 

53,000.00 

317,447.50 

1880 

202,4(X).25 

.55,00O.(X) 

317,400.25 

1881 

2()2,594.50 

55,000.00 

31 7,594.  .50 

1882 

201.88.5.75 

.55.0(K).0O 

310,88.5.75 

1883 

202,295.25 

55,000.00 

317,295.25 

The  increasing  facilities  for  safe  trading  with  this  newly  acquired 
territory,  are  to  be  credited  to  such  explorations  and  surveys  of  intricate 
passes  and  harbors  as  have  been  made  by  tlie  expeditions  named  in  this 
volume.     The  purchase  of  Alaska  has  been  fully  vindicated. 


REAL  GAINS. 


661 


SMALL   LOSS   OB^   LIFE. 

To  these  statements  of  results  may  be  added  witli  interest  the  fact 
tliat  the  loss  of  life  in  these  Arctic  liijcplorations  has  been  remarkaljly 
small.  The  number  of  deaths  occurring  in  all  the  ships  of  the  expedi- 
tions sent  for  the  relief  of  Franklin,  and  on  tlutse  engaged  in  later 
Arctic  explorations  up  to  the  date  of  1873,  had  not  ecjualled  two  per 
cent  of  the  officers  and  men  employed.  Nor  have  the  casualties  in  the 
recent  German,  English,  Danish,  Swedish,  and  American  expeditions 
equalled  those  ordinarily  occurring  among  the  ships  on  naval  duty  in 
other  regions  of  the  globe.  They  bear  an  inappreciable  proportion  to 
the  losses  in  the  Merchant,  and  especially  the  Whaling  Marine,  in  proof 
of  which  it  is  enough  to  recall  the  statement  of  Lieutenant  Maury, 
"  that  the  losses  by  wreckage  around  the  British  Isles  during  a  single 
year,  exceeded,  the  aggregate  of  all  those  within  the  history  of  Arctic 
exploration." 


CONCLUSIONS. 

It  has  been  shown,  ii:  the  beginning  of  this  volume,  that  Explora- 
tion in  the  Arctic  Zones  had  its  origin  in  the  desire  to  find  a  North- 
west passage  from  Europe  to  the  Indies,  a  problem  which  involved  a 
Crossing  at  or  near  the  Pole.  The  history  of  these  efforts  has  also 
shown  the  other  more  valuable  purposes  of  the  Expeditions  which  they 
themselves  from  time  to  time  developed,  the  extension  of  Geographical 
discoverj',  and.  of  the  domain  of  Science  in  its  various  departments,  to 
which  must  be  added  the  more  direct  material  benefits  to  Commerce 
and  Navigation. 

The  problem  of  the  Northwest  passage  is  no  longer  looked  upon  as 
of  hopeful  solution  or  utility.  Science  has  ceased  to  expect  from  its 
discovery  the  advantages  for  commerce  and  navigation,  the  hope  of 
which  stimulated  the  Explorers ;  and  perhaps  less  can  possibly  be 
realized  from  the  justly-renowned  completed  Northeast  passage  around 
Asia  than  this,  at  first  sight,  seems  to  promise.  Yet  the  incidental 
results  of  each  of  them  possesses  high  value.  Maury  may  again  be 
quoted : 


502 


AMKHICAN    EXPLOKATIONS    IN   TIM-:    Wil  ZOMls. 


mi 


m:t 


M 


■y 


"  The  expeditions  wliic'h  have  been  sent  to  explore  unknown  seas 
have  contributed  hugely  to  the  stock  of  human  knowledge,  an<l  they 
have  added  renown  to  nations,  and  lustre  to  diadems.  Navies  are  not 
all  lor  war.  Peace  lias  its  concjuests,  Science  its  glories ;  and  no  navy 
can  boast  of  brighter  chaplets  than  those  which  have  been  gatheied  in 
the  fields  of  geographical  exploration  and  physical  research." 

Of  the  problem  of  the  Pole,  Lieutenant  Payer,  of  the  German 
North  Polar  Expedition  of  1869,  has  justly  said  that  "  it  aims  at  deter- 
mining limits  of  land  and  water,  at  perfecting  that  network  of  lines 
with  which  comparative  science  seeks  to  surround  our  planet,  even  to 
the  Pole,  the  discovery  of  the  physical  laws  which  regulate  climates, 
the  currents  of  the  atmosphere  and  the  sea,  and  the  analogies  of  geol- 
ogy with  the  earth  as  we  see  it." 

It  must  be  admitted  that  the  hope  of  reaching  the  ninetieth  degree 
of  the  north  or  south  latitude  is  not  encouraging.  The  Paleocrystic  ice 
forms  an  impenetrable  barrier,  a  conflict  with  which  by  the  strongest 
iron-built  ship  were  hopeless,  and  the  forewarnings  of  Barrow,  ex- 
pressed to  the  Royal  Geographical  Society  more  than  forty  years  ago, 
against  all  efforts  toward  the  extremest  north  by  sledijing,  have  con- 
firmed themselves  in  the  severe  experiences  of  Markham,  in  lat.  83°  20 
N.  Even  that  reserved,  —  one  might  say  the  forlorn  hope  —  of  theo- 
rists, the  Bering  Strait  route,  has  been  eliminated  by  the  saddening 
shadows  of  the  "  Jeannette,"  an  elimination  in  itself  of  high  value. 

It  is  safe  to  say  that  at  least  long  years  must  elapse  before  even 
American  or  English  liberality  will  sanction  an  expedition  for  the  bare 
purpose  of  reaching  the  Pole.  Volunteers  from  naval  and  civil  life 
are  still  ready  to  offer  themselves  for  the  fascinations  of  the  most 
daring  Arctic  adventure,  but  no  branch  of  the  United  States  Govern- 
ment will  lend  an  ear.  But,  for  the  further  prosecution  of  researches 
in  the  collateral  branches  of  Science,  for  the  extension  of  geographical 
knowledge,  of  commerce,  civilization,  and  Christianity,  new  expedi- 
tions will  be  set  on  foot.  Arctic  Exploration  will  not  soon  be  aban- 
doned. Baron  Nordenskiold  is  at  this  moment  reported  as  proposing 
an  expedition  to  the  Antarctic,  in  which  ocean  no  expedition  has 
attempted  to  make  any  persistent  exploration,  or  even  to  winter  there. 


FruTiiKit  i:xi'L()Iiat:<)N's. 


563 


"Eiigland,"  says  Mauiy,  "through  Cook  and  Ross;  Russia,  through 
Bellingshausen;  France,  through  D'lhville;  and  the  I'nited  States, 
through  Wilkes,  have  sent  expeditions  to  the  South  Sea."  With  any 
renienibranee  of  the  unprecedented  a[)pliances  bestowed  by  Science  on 
this  generation,  who  shall  say  that  by  some  still  further  advance  prob- 
lems will  not  be  solved  on  which  the  fullest  light  can  be  thrown  only  by 
researches  in  the  regions  in  which  nature  exerts  her  extremest  forces? 
With  these  results  will  also  be  reaped  the  extension  of  the  blessings 
of  civilization  to  races  as  untutored  as  unknown.  To-ilay  the  Fiji 
Islanders  seek  a  confederation  with  Australian  interests.  But  before 
the  explorations  in  the  Antarctic  Sea,  what  were  Australia  itself  and 
New  Zealand  but  cannibal  lands?  What  limit  can  be  set  to  the 
result  of  exploration  and  survey,  and  the  closer  intercourse  of  the 
nations?  What  limit  to  the  advancement  of  knowledge,  which  for  its 
advance  needs  the  extension  of  lesearch  to  the  furthest  possible 
bounds  ? 


While  the  pages  of  this  volume  are  upon  the  press,  i)reparations 
have  been  made  for  the  relief  of  the  party  t  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  and 
the  remains  of  DeLong  and  his  comrades  oi  the  "  Jeannette,"  have  been 
received  with  appropriate  obsequies  in  New  York. 

The  Board  of  Officers  appointed  to  reconnuend  a  plan  for  the  relief 
of  the  Greely  expedition,  consisting  of  Gen.  W.  B.  Hazen  and  Capt. 
G.  W.  Davis  of  the  Army,  and  Capt.  J.  A.  Greer  and  Lieut.-Com.  B. 
H.  McCalla  of  the  Navy,  has  made  a  report  which  has  been  approved 
by  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  sanctioned  by  Act  of  Congress,  and 
places  the  outlay  for  the  expedition  entirely  at  the  discretion  of  the 
President. 

A  memorable  feature  in  the  history  of  the  United  States  Expedition 
for  the  reliof  of  Lieut.  Greely  is  the  addition  of  a  gift  vessel  from  the 
British  government,  the  "Alert,"  the  advance  ship  of  Sir  Geo.  Nares' 
Arctic  Expedition  of  1875.  This  ship  is  peculiarly  fitted  for  the 
intended  service  and,  as  will  be  remembered,  wintered  in  Lad}-  Frank 
lin  Bay.  This  international  courtesy,  accepted  by  the  President  and 
Congress,  is  a  grateful  reciprocation  of  the  presentation  by  the  United 


564 


AArEUICAN    EXPLORATIONK    IN    THE   ICK   ZONES. 


tJ 


States  of  tlie  "  Resolute,"  of  Sir  E.  Belcher's  Franklin  Squadron,  a 
ship  picked  up  at  great  personal  risk  at  sea  by  Capt.  James  liudington 
of  New  London,  and  delivered  to  Queen  Victoria  by  Capt.  Ilartstene 
in  person,  after  his  own  rescue  of  Kane.  Thus  ave  linked  the  imperish- 
able deeds  of  noble  daring  and  of  national  good-will :  proving  the 
story  of  Arctic  adventure  to  be  fraught  with  exhibitions  of  the  hnest 
traits  of  elevated  purposes  and  of  characters  formed  by  Arctic  experi- 
ence and  Arctic  study. 

This  last  remark  will  be  sensibly  appreciated  by  the  many  at  homo 
and  abroad,  who  are  sharing  to-day  in  the  last  tributes  to  the  brave 
DeLong  and  his  comrades.  The  records  of  this,  so  exhaustively 
furnished  by  the  Neiv  York  Herald,  closes  the  long  and  generous  sup- 
port of  the  expedition  by  its  proprietor. 

Homage  to  the  martyrs  fallen  in  the  cause  of  science  and  of  their 
country  has  never  been  so  fully  marked.  The  sending  out  to  the 
frozen  wastes  of  Siberia  home  caskets  for  the  dead ;  their  transporta- 
tion of  8,000  miles  through  foreign  lands,  which  everywhere  offered 
tributes  to  the  funeral  cortege;  and  the  heart-throbs  of  their  native 
shores  until  the  dead  were  safe  within  their  resting-places,  contrast 
themselves  strongly  with  the  cold  indifference  and  neglect  of  past  ages 
towards  the  'discoverers  of  new  worlds.  The  sufferings  of  the  fallen  in 
our  day  prove  the  occasion  of  such  exhibitions  of  national  good-will 
and  of  honor  to  true  heroism  as  relieve  in  part  the  sorrows  borne  since 
the  fatal  September,  1881.  There  are,  and  ever  will  be,  fair  fruits  born 
out  of  such  acts  of  high  aspirations,  energy,  and  fortitude  in  those  who 
have  gone  out  and  in  their  liberal  supporters;  exemplars  for  the  lifting 
up  of  the  discouraged,  the  education  of  the  young.  Certainly  volun- 
teers for  the  paths  of  discovery  will,  as  now,  freely  offer  themselves 
until  the  fullest  additions  to  the  domain  of  science  have  had  their 
ingathering. 


ron,  a 

ugtoii 

tstene 

lerish- 

ig  the 

I  tinest 

Bxpevi- 

t  home 
s  brave 


APPENDIX. 


istively 

i            1818. 

)us  sup- 

i           1819. 

1               " 

of  their 

1  1820. 
1           1821. 

to  the 

1' 

nsporta- 

1          18^^- 

!  offered 

I:       182;]. 

r  native 

H 

contrast 

i 

)ast  ages 

1          1824. 

fallen  in 

H 

jood-will 

■         1825. 

•no  since 

I 

lits  horn 

^B 

lose  who 

I        1826. 

le  lifting 
y  voluu- 

H        1828. 

3mselves 
ad  their 

^1 

^^^1 

BIBLIOGRAPHICAL  INDEX  TO  THE  CHIEF  PUBLICATIONS  ON  POLAR  EXPLORATIONS, 
FROM  THE  DATE  OF  THE  REVIVAL  OK  ARCTIC  EXPLORATION.* 

Chronological  History  of  Voyages  into  the  Arctic  Itegions.    Sir  John  Barrow. 

Journal  of  a  Voyage  to  the  Arctic  Regions  in  1819.     A.  Fisher. 

Voyage  for  Inquiring  Into  the  Probability  of  a  Northwest  Passage,  Baffin's  Bay, 

and  Davis  Strait.    Captain  Sir  John  Ross. 
Account  of  tlie  Arctic  Regions,  etc.,  Greenland  and  Spitzbergen.    W.  Scoresby. 
A  Journal  of  a  Voyage  of  "Hecla"  and  "Griper"  to  the  Arctic  Regions  in 

1819-20;  Parry  Islands.     A.  Fisher. 
Journal  of  a  Voyage  for  the  Discovery  of  a  Northwest  Passage,  etc. ;    Parry's 

Islands.     W.  E.  Parry. 
Journal  of  a  Voyage  to  the  Northern  Whale  Fishery,  Including  Researches  on  the 

East  Coast  of  Greenland.    W.  Scoresby. 
Narrative  of  a  Journey  to  the  Shores  of  the  Polar  Sea  In  1819-22,  etc.    Sir  J. 

Franklin. 
Private  Journal  During  Captain  Parry's  Second  Voyage;  Parry's  Islands.    Lyon. 
Narrative  of  a  Pedestrian  Journey  to  the  Frozen  Sea,  etc.     J.  D.  Cochrane. 
Journal  of  a  Second  Voyage  for  the  Discovery  of  a  Northwest  Passage,  1821-2-3, 

etc. ;  Parry  Islands.    Sir  W.  E.  Parry. 
Account  of  Experiments  to  Determine  the  Figure  of  the  Earth.     Also  a  Brief  Ac- 
count of  Captain  Claverlng's  Voyage  to  the  Arctic  Regions.      Major-General 

£.  Sabine. 
Brief  Narrative,  Repulse  Bay,  etc.,  Hudson  Strait.    Captain  Lyon,  R.  N. 
Journal  of  a  Third  Voyage  for  the  Discovery  of  a  Northwest  Passage,  1824-25, 

etc.;  Parry  Islands.    Sir  W.  E.  Parry. 
Narrative  of  an  Attempt  to  Reach  the  North  Pole  in  1827;  Spitzbergen.     Sir  W.  E. 

Parry. 
Second  Expedition  to  the  Shores  of  North  America.     Franklin  and  Richardson. 
Undersogelses-Reise  til  Ostkysten  of  Gronland,  etc.;   East  Greenland.      W.  A. 

Graah. 
Arctic  Expeditions  from  England  from  1497-1833.    Anonymous. 
The  Position  of  the  North  Magnetic  Pole.     Sir  J.  C.  Ross. 
The  Last  Voyage  of  Captain  J.  C.  Ross  to  the  Arctic  Regions,  etc.     R.  Hulsli. 
Supplement  to  Sir  James  Ross's  Second  Voyage  in  Search  of  a  Northwest  Passage, 

Boothia  Felix,  etc. ;  Parry  Islands.    S.  Braithwaite. 

*  The  list  here  given,  taken  chiefly  from  the  Manual  prepared  for  the  English  expedition  of  1875, 
aiul  continued  to  the  present  date,  presents  the  order  of  publication  rather  than  that  of  the  voyages 
narrated. 


566 


566 


AIM'KN'DIX. 


1830. 


ia37. 


1830, 


1835.     Narrative  of  a  Resldonce  In  the  Arctic  Regions  1829-33.     Captain  Sir  J.  Ross. 
•'       Tlie  Last  Voyage  of  Captain  Sir  J.  Ross  for  tlie  Discovery  of  a  Northwest  Passage 

R.  Iluisli. 
*'       Narrative  of  a  Second  Voyage  in  Search  of  a  Nortliwest  Passage.     Captain  Sir 
J.  Ross. 
Sur  les  Dt'couvcrtes  Faitos  en  (iWinland,  etc.     M.  de  la  Roquette. 
Narrative  of  a  Journey  io  the  Arctic  Ocean  in  1833-35,  etc.     R.  King. 
Narrative  of  tlie  Arctic  Land  Expedition  to  the  Great  Fisli  River,  etc.     Sir  (J 

Rack. 
Narrative  of  an  Expedition  to  the  East  Coast  of  Greenland,  etc. ;  Translation  liy 
MacDougal.     \V.  A.  Graah. 
18.'J8.     Narrative  of  an  Expedition  to  tlie  Arctic  Shores,  etc.     Sir  Geo.  Rack. 
1838-40.     Voyage  en  (ininlanil  pendant  1835  et  1830,  etc. ;  South  Greenland  and  Iceland. 
P.  Gainiard. 
Reise  aiif  deni  Eisnieere  in  1820-24,  etc. ;  Asia.     F.  von  Wnuigell. 
Sur  la  Frequence  des  Oraj^es  dans  les  Regions  Arcticjues.     K.  E.  von  Baor. 
"       Retour  en  France  «le  la  Recherche;  Rapport  sur  la  Seconde  Canipagne  au  Spitz- 
berg.    Captain  Fabvre. 
1840  and  1841.     Narrative  of  an  P:xpedition  to  the  Polar  Sea  in  1820-23;  Siberia.     F.  von 

Wrangell.     Edited  by  Major  E.  Sabine,  R.  A. 
1843.     Voya.i.;e  towards  the  North  Pole  in  1818,  etc. ;  Spitzbergen.     F.  \V.  Beechey. 
1845.     Americas  Arcliske  Landes  gandc  (Jeographie,  etc.     C.  C.  Kafn. 
1840.     Voyages  within  the  Arctic  Regions  from  1818,  etc.     Sir  J.  Barrow. 
1847.     Aper(;u  de  rAncienne  Geographic  des  Regions  Arctiques  de  TAmerique. 
1848-50.     A     uic  Expeditions.    A  Collection  of  Papers  Relative  to  the  Recent  Arctic  Expe- 
ditions, etc. 

1850.  Arctic  Expeditions.     Eskimos  and  English  Vocabulary. 
"       Eskimo  and  Englisli  Vocabulary.    J.  Washington. 

"       Arctic  Voyage  to  Baffin's  Bay,  Baffin's  Bay,  and  Lancaster  Sound.     It.  A.  Goodsir. 
*'       Narrative  of  an  Expedition  to  the  Shores  of  the  Arctic  Sea  in  1840-47.     North 

America  and  Southern  parts  of  Parry's  Island.     J.  Rae. 
"       The  Arctic  Expedition  of  1849,  etc.     II.  Kellett  and  others. 
''       The  Franklin  Expedition;  or.  Considerations  for  the  Discovery  of  our  Countrymen 

in  the  Arctic  Region.     W.  Scoresby. 
"       Narrative  of  Arctic  Discovery  from  the  Earliest  Period.     J.  J.  Shillinglaw. 

1851.  Arctic  Searching  ExpeditioTis  of  1850-51,  etc. 

"       IllustratedGeogriiphy  and  Hydrography,  Wellington  Channel  Section.    J.  Mangles. 
"       Arctic  Searching  Expedition  of  1850-51,  etc. 

"       Voyage  of  the  "Prince  Albert"  in  Search  of  Sir  J.  Franklin,  etc.;  Baffin's  Bay 
and  Parry  Islands.     W.  P.  Snow. 

1852.  Om  den   Geographiske  Beskaffenhcd  af  de  Danske.      Handels-distrikter:  Nord- 

gninland,  etc. ;  Greenland.     H.  Rink. 
1852-57.     Gninland  Geographisk  og  Statistisk  Beskrevet.     H.  Rink. 
1852.     Stray  Leaves  from  an  Arctic  Journal;  Baffin's  Bay  and  Parry  Islands.     Osborn. 

"       Remarks  on  the  English  Maps  of  Arctic  Discovery  in  1850-51.     Peter  Force. 

*'       Additional  Papers  Relative  to  the  Arctic  Expedition  (in  Search  of  Franklin)  under 
Captain  Austin.     Farlianientary  Paper. 

"       Further  Correspondence  Connected  with  the  Arctic  Expedition,  etc.,  in  Search  of 
Franklin.     Parliamentary  Paper. 

*'       Report  of  the  Committee  to  Inquire  into  the  Report  on  the  Recent  Arctic  Expedi- 
tions in  Soairh  of  Franklin.     Parliamentary  Paper. 

*'       The  Search  for  Franklin.     A  suggestion,  etc.     A.  Petermann. 


APPENDIX. 


567 


IS. 

'ussage. 
Lain  Sir 


Sir  C. 
ulioii  l>y 

Iceland. 

au  Spit/.- 
i.  F.  von 
ey. 

•ctic  Expe- 


..  Goodsir. 
n.     North 


18S2. 
1853. 


<< 


<< 
1854. 


1855. 


<< 
1850. 


^H 

<> 

^H 

« 

luntryinen          ^1 

<( 

^1 

1857 

r.  Mangles.           H 

« 

affin's  Bay           H 

<i 

ter:  Nonl-          ^| 

1 

(< 

Osborn.               ^| 
kltn)  under          ■ 

1858 
1859 

Search  of          H 

1859- 
1860 

tic  ExiH'di-         H 

(( 

^^1 

(( 

Journal  of  a  Voya<3;c  in  1850-51;  Davis  Strait,  Baffin's  Bay,  and  Franklin  Archi- 
pelago.    P.  C.  Sutherland. 
Across  to  an  Open  Polar  Sea,  etc.     E.  K.  Kane. 
Greenland  Eskimo  Vocabulary,  etc. 

Franklin's  Footsteps;  a  Sketch  of  Greenland,  etc.    C.  R.  Markham. 
Second  Voyage  of  the  "  Prince  Albert ";  South  Part  of  Parry  Islands.    Kennedy. 
Ten  Months  among  the  Tuski,  with  an  Arctic  Boat  E.xpedition,  etc.     W.  II. 

Hooper. 
A  Summer  Search  for  Sir  J.  Franklin,  etc.,  in  the  "  Isabel,"  in  1852;  Davis  Strait 

and  Baftin's  Bay.     E.  A.  Ingletield. 
The  United  States  (irinnell  Expedition,  in  Search  of  Sir  J.  Franklin,  etc.;  Souths 

cast  Parry  Islands.    £.  K.  Kane. 
Narrative  of  Three  Cruises  to  the  Arctic  Regions.    B.  Seeman. 
.lournal  d'un  Voyage  aux  Mers  Pohiires,  etc.     J.  R.  Bellot. 
Papers  Relative  to  the  Recent  Arctic  Expeditions  in  Search  of  Sir  John  Franklin, 

etc. 
Narrative  of  a  Boat  Expedition  up  the  Wellington  Channel  in  1852,  etc.     li. 

McCormick. 
Arctiske  Striimning.     C.  Irniinger. 
Last  of  tlie  Arctic  Voyages;  a  Narrative  of  the  Expeditions  of  Her  Majesty's  Ship 

*'  Assistance"  in  Search  of  Sir  J.  Franklin,  in  1832-54.    Sir  E.  Belcher. 
Conp-d'oeil  d'Ensemble  sur  les  Differentes  Expeditions  Arctiques,  etc.    V.  A.  Malte 

Brim. 
Voyage  in  the  Arctic  Regions.     F.  Mayne. 
Observations  Meteorologicaj  per  Annos  1832-54  In  6roenlandi&  Pactse.      C.  C. 

Ostergaarde  and  others. 
Arctic  Explorations.    The  Second  Grinnell  Expedition,  etc.;  Smith  Sound,  etc. 

E.  K.  Kane. 
A  Short  Narrative  of  the  Second  Voyage  of  the  "Prince  Albert"  in  Search  of  Sir 

J.  Franklin.     W.  Kennedy. 
Voyages  and  Travels  in  the  Arctic  Regions.    Copy  of  a  Letter,  etc.    J.  Rae. 
Discovery  of  the  Northwest  Passage,  18.50-54.     R.  C.  M.  McClure. 
On  the  Open  Water  at  the  Great  Polar  Basin.     R.  White. 
Discovery  of  the  Northwest  Passage  by  the  "Investigator,"  etc.;  Southern  Part 

of  Parry  Island.    S.  Osborn. 
Letters  from  High  Latitudes,  being  an  Account  of  Iceland,  Spltzbergen,  etc.     Lord 

Dufferin. 
The  Voyage  of  Her  Majesty's  "Resolute"  to  the  Arctic  Regions,  1852-54;  Parry 

Islands.     G.  F.  McDougall. 
Discovery  of  the  Northwest  Passage.     McClure. 
Erindringer  fra  Polarlandene,  1850-55,  etc.     C.  Petersen. 
Personal  Narrative  of  the  Discovery  of  the  Northwest  Passage.     Armstrong. 
Arctic  Explorations   and  Discoveries  during  the  Nineteenth  Century.      S.   M. 

Smucker. 
The  Northwest  Passage,  etc. ;  Southeast  Part  of  Parry  Islands.    J.  Brown. 
The  Voyage  of  the  "Fox"    In  the  Arctic  Seas,  etc.;  Southeast  Part  of  Parry 

Islands.     F.  L.  McClintock. 
-61.    Polar  Regions.    Sir  J.  Richardson. 
Astronomical    Observations  made  on  the  Northwest    Coast  of  Greenland,  etc. 

E.  K.  Kane. 
Tidal  Observations  in  the  Arctic  Seas,  etc.    E.  K.  Kane. 
Explorations,  Arctiques,  etc.    P.  Chaix. 


i 


568 


AIM'KNDIX. 


If 


if  !..  1 
u  ,  ,,< 

m 


'f) 


1800.    Arctic  Boat  Journ«y  in  IfVA,  etc.     I.  I.  Hayes.     Hoston. 

The  Career,  Last  Voyage,  and  Fate  of  Nir  J.  Kranlclin.    8.  Oaborn. 
On  tlie  Lost  Polar  Expedition,  etc.     W.  V.  8now. 
"       A  Sequel  to  tlic  Northwest  Passage.     J.  Brown.  ' 

l8tU.    Seasons  with  tl»e  Sea-horses;  Spitzlwrgen.    J.  Lainont. 
'*      Physical  Oeograpliy  of  the  Sea.     Lieutenant  Maury.     Enlarged  Edition.    London 
and  New  Yorlt. 
18«W.    Notice  sur  les  Pi'ciies  du  firoenland.    ('.  Irnilnger. 
*'      Ueogradska  Ortobestiimmningar  pa  Spetsbergen  af  Professor  A.  E.  Nordenskiold, 

etc.     D.  C.  Lindhagen. 
"       Geogrnfisic  och  Geognostisk  Beskrifning  ofver  Nordostra  Dclarne  af  Spetsbergen, 
A.  E.  Norden&Kiultl. 
Renselgnements  sur  les  Premiers  Habitants  de  la  Cote  Occldentale  du  Greenland, 

etc.    C.  C.  Hiitv.. 
Life  with  tlie  Eskimos,  etc.,  Frobisher  Bay  and  Davis  Strait,    C,  F.  Hall. 
The  Open  Polar  Sea,  etc. ;  Smitli's  Sound.     Dr.  .1.  J.  Hayes. 
Ueber  die  Polarliinder.     O.  Hcer. 
(ironland  uud  die  Grunlander,  etc.     H.  Helms. 
The  Tlnoe  Voyages  of  Martin  Frobislier;  by  Rear  Admiral  U.  Collinson.    London. 

(Hakluyt  Series.) 
Fate  of  Sir  J.  Franklin.    The  Voyage  of  the  "Fox"  in  the  Arctic  Seas,  etc.; 

Parry  Islands.     Sir  F.  L.  McClliitock. 
The  Polar  World.    Dr.  G.  Hartwlg.    8vo.    Harper  Brothers,  New  York. 
L.and  of  Desolation;  South  Greenland.    Dr.  Hayes. 
The  Threshold  of  the  Unknown  Regions.    Notices  of  Arctic  Discovery;  East  Coast 

of  Greenland,  etc'    Clements  R.  Markliam. 
Gateway  to  the  Polynia;  Spltzbergen.     J.C.Wells.    London. 
Whaling  Cruise  to  Baffin's  Bay,  and  Rescue  of  tiio  Crew  of  the  "  Polaris  " ;  Baffin's 

Bay  and  Southeast  Parry  Islands.    H.  A.  Markliam. 
Die  Zweite  Deutsche  Nordpolarfahrt.     The  German  Arctic  Expedition  of  186!l-70, 

under  Koldewey;  and  Translation  by  II.  Bates. 
TheGerman  Arctic  Expedition  of  1809-70;  tliellansa.    Captain  Koldewey.    Edited 

by  II.  W.  Bates,  Assistant  Secretary  Royal  Geographical  Society,  liondon. 
A  Whaling  Cruise  to  Baffin's  Bay  and  the  Gulf  of  Boothia.  A.  II.  Markham,  London. 
A  Selection  of  Papers  on  Arctic  Geography  and  Ethnology,  Reprinted  and  Pre- 
sented to  the  Arctic  Expedition  of  1875.    London. 
"       Instructions  for  the  use  of    the  Scientific  Expedition  to  the  Arctic   Regions. 

London. 
*'       The  Arctic  Navy  List,  or  A  Century  of  Arctic  and  Antarctic  Officers,  1773-1873. 

C.  R.  Markham,  F.  R.  S. 
"       Remarks  on  Davis  Strait,  Baffin's  Bay.  Smith's  Sound.    Compiled  from  Various 

Authorities. 
"      Tales  and  Traditions  of  the  Eskimos,  with  a  Sketcli  of  their  Habits,  Religion,  Lan- 
guage, and  other  Peculiarities,  by  Dr.  Henry  Rink.     Edited  by  Dr.   Robert 
Brown,  London. 
*'      Report  to  United  States  Treasury  Department  on  the  Condition  of  Affairs  in  the 
Territory  of  Alaska.     H.  W.  Elliott. 
1876.     Narrative  of  the  North  Polar  Expedition.     United  States'  Ship  "Polaris,"  Captain 
Chas.  F.  Hall,  Commander;  by  Rear-Admiral  C.  H.  Davis,  United  States  Navy. 
Imperial  8vo.    Published  by  the  Navy  Department ;  edition  exhausted. 
"       Two  Voyages  of  the  "  Pandora,"  in  1875  and  1876,  by  Sir  Allen  Young,  R.  N.  R. 
"      Yachting  in  the  Arctic  Seas.    J.  Lament,  F.  R.  G.  S. 


1864. 


1867. 


1860. 


1871. 
1873. 


1874. 


1875. 


Ari'KNnix. 


5(i9 


East  Coast 


187«. 


1877. 


1878. 
It 


1871>. 


18W). 
1881. 


1882. 


1883. 


The  Crulso  of  thp  "Pandora";  by  J.  A.  MoOahun, 

Wrllton  by  himspli.     IH.i;j-lH7t». 

111. 

1H72-74. 


Under  tho  Northern  Lightii. 

Lontlon. 
Meinolrn  of  IlauH  II<>nth-ick,  tho  Arctic  Triivcllci 

TruuHlatcii  by  Dr.  Kink. 
Dani-sh  (ht'ciilnnd.     Dr.  Ilcnry  lilnk.     Kditod  bv  Dr.  I{.  lirown,  London. 
New  LiiiidM  Wilblii  the  An-lic  Circle.     Tlic  Voyii^c  of  tlic  "  Tcjjcthoff."' 

Julius  I'iiycr.     2  v.d.s.  Svo.     I).  Applcton.  New  York. 
Arctic  Kx|>cditi()n!4  from  itritlMb  and  Foreign  .Miorc!*,  from  tho  Kariicst  Times  to 

tho  Kxpcditioiis  of  1H7.V7(I;  by  I).  Murray  .Smith.  V.  U.  (i.  S.      4to.     Edlnlmrnli. 
Th«  Dutch  ill  tho  Arctic  Soas.     iSamuul  K.  Van  Caiiipcn.  London. 
The  KuKllHh  Arctic  Kxpuditiun  of  187.'>.    Captftin  Narci.     (Parliamentary  Paper. 

C.  2170.) 
Voyage  to  the  Open  Polar  Sea.     Captain  Sir  Oeo.  Nares.  H.  N.     2  voU.,  ,Svo. 
The  Shores  of  the  Polar  Sea;  a  Narrative  of  the  Arctic  Kxpedition  187r»-I870.    Dr. 

E.  li.  Moss,  Her  Majesty's  Ship  "  Alert."     Imperial  folio.  London. 
The  (ireat  Frozen  Sea;  the  Voyage  of  the  '"Alert."      Captain  A.  II.  Markham. 

H.  N. 
The  Two  Voyages  of  the  •'  Pandora."  In  187.'>  and  \Hin.     Sir  Allen  Young. 
Narrative  of  tlie  Seconil  .Vrctic  Kxpedition   made  by  Chiis.  F.  Hall.     Professor  .1. 

K.  Nourse.  V.  S.  X.     Puldlshed  l)y  United  States  .Senate;  edition  exhausted. 
Arctic  Experiences  of  Captain  (Jeo.  E.  Tyson;  tlie  "Polaris."      Edited  by  E.  V. 

Ulake.     Harper  Brotliers,  New  York. 
Tlie  Cruise  of  the  "Florence."     Bulletin  of  the  United  States'  National  Museum; 

by  Lutlwig  Kitmlien. 
Report  upon  the  ('ustoms  District.  Public  Service,  and  Hcsourcos  of  Alaska:  by 

W.  (f.  Morris.    8vo.     Washington. 
The  Arctic  Voyages  of  Adolf  Erik  Nordenskiold.    Illustrated.    ls.jS-71),    McMillan 

&  Co. 
Report  on  Alaska  and  its  People.     Captain  (J.  W.  Bailey,  of  the  Revenue  Cutter 

"Rush." 
A  Polar  Reconnoissance;  being  the  Voyage  of  the  "  Isbjiirn"  to  Novaya  Zembia, 

in  1870.     A.  II.  Markham,  F.  R.  G.  S. 
The  Voyage  of  the  "  Vega"  round  Asia  and  Europe.    .\.  E.  Nordenskiold.     Trans- 
lated by  A.  Leslie.     2  vols.,  8vo.     London. 
Reports  of  the  Cruises  of  the  L^nited  States  Reveinie  Steamer  "  Corwin."  1880  and 

1881,  in  the  Arctic  Ocean.     Hooper,  Muir.  Nelson  Ar  Rosse. 
Reports  of  Captain  L.  A.  Beurdslee,  U.  S.  N.  :   Operations  of  the  "Jamestown" 

in  tlie  Waters  of  Alaska. 
Alaska;  by  Sheldon  Jackson,  D.  D. 

Report  of  Affairs  in  Alaska;  by  L.  A.  Beardslce.     8vo.     Washington. 
Nordenskiold's  Voyage   round   Asia  and   Etuope;  the   "^'ega."      A.  Hovgaard, 

London. 
The  Voyage  of  the  "  Jeannette.  '      The  Ship  and  Ice  Journals  of  George  W.  De- 
Long,  Lieutenant  Commander,  U.  S.  N..  and  Commander  of  the  Polar  Expedition 

of  1879-1881.     Edited  by  his  wife,  Emma  DeLong.     Houghton,  Mifflin  &  Co. 
The  Jeannette,  and  a  Complete  Encyclopa'dia  of  all  Voyages  and  Expeditions  to 

the  North  Pole.     Captain  R.  Perry.     Newman  and  Coburn  Publishing  Company, 

Cliicago. 
Narrative  of  the  "Jeannette."  Lieutenant  Danenhower,  U.  S.  N.   J.  R.  Osgood  &  Co. 
Proceedings  of  a  Court  of  Inquiry,  Convened  at  the  Navy  Department.  Washing- 
ton, D.  C,  October  5.  to  Investigate  the  Loss  in  the  Arctic  Seas  of  tlie  Exploring 

Steamer  "  Jeannette." 


'ii 


'I 


'\ 


'I 


570 


APPENPIX. 


tH83.     Work  of  the  Signal  Sei-vicc  in  the  Arctic  IJcaions.     Siffnal  Sorvico  Notes  No.  V. 
"       Report  on  Liuly  Franklin  Hay  Kxix'tlition.     Sij^nal  Service  Notes  No.  X. 
"       Meteoroiofjieal  ant!   Pliysical  Oiwervations  on  the  East  Coast  of   Jiritish  America, 
by  Orray  Taft  Sliernian.     Professional  Papers  of  the  Signal  Service,  No.  XI. 
1884.     American  Kxplorations  in  the  lee  Zones,  1K.')0-18S2;  by  Profe.ssor  J.  E.  Nourse, 
I  J.  S.  N.     D.  Lothrop  &  ^'o  ,  Boston. 


For  th(!  cliief  scientific  n^views  of  the  labors  of  Arctic  explorers  see  jonrnals,  bnlletlns, 
an<l  reports  of  the  American  and  foreign  Societies,  especially  those  of  the  American 
(jreo!,'raphical  Society,  the  Smithsonian  Institntion,  the  American  .lournal  of  Science,  the 
Hoyal  Geof^raphical  Society,  the  Societe  ih;  (Jeo^raphie  of  Paris,  and  the  bulletins  of  the 
Imperial  (Jeograpliical  Societies  of  llussia,  Sweden,  and  Holland.  Heferences  to  the 
volumes  of  these  which  contain  Arctic  material  will  be  found  generally  in  full  in  the 
"Die  Literatur  iiber  die  Polar  UcKioneni  der  Erdc,"  von  Drs.  Josef  Chavanne,  A.  Karpf 
and  F.  H.  LcMonnier,  Wien,  1(574.  For  a  synopsis  of  the  work  of  each  American  exi)l<)rer 
undiu-  commission  by  the  United  States  Government,  see  Reports  of  the  Secretary  of  tlic 
Navy,  the  Secretary  of  War,  and  the  Secretary  of  the  Treasury. 


INI)  E  X. 


AcTKA,  visited  by  the  Fenlnioro  Cooper  in  search  of  the  Monongahcla,  117 

Advance,  tlic,  equipped  by  (Jrinnell,  49;  sails  from  New  York,  50;  crosses  Melville  Bay, 
54;  reaclH!S  Beeehey  Island,  iV);  returns  to  New  York,  r»S);  loaned  to  Kane,  f55; 
equipped,  (iS;  in  Ilensseiuer  harbor,  71;  abandoned.  SH. 

Agloo,  or  Igloo  seal,  1!)5. 

Aglooka  ((Jrozier),  described  to  Hall,  248. 

Albatross  of  the  North  I'acific,  r)Or>;  of  the  Antarctic,  500. 

Allen,  William,  letter  to  Thomas  Penn,  27. 

Alliance,  tlu;  cruise  of,  485. 

Ambler,  .J.  M.,  surgeon  of  the  .Jeannctte,  :]82;  describes  Bennett  Island,  401. 

American  early  voyages  for  Northwest  Passage,  24. 

American  explorations,  table  of,  527;  beneficial  results,  558. 

Anioukta  Passag<!  the,  examined  by  Brooke,  Fillebrown,  and  Knorr,  129. 

Andromeda  Tetragona,  72. 

Angekos,  and  Ankooling,  190,  210,  245. 

Antarctic  zones  compared  with  Arctic,  18,  491;  discoveries  in  by  Palmer,  494;  by  Wilkes, 
.508;  by  Boss,  51:!;  by  D'Urville,  514;  ice  within,  522,  524. 

Antisell,  Dr.,  on  the  Kuro  Siwo,  ;{08. 

Arctic  exploration,  the  field  of,  17;  original  object,  20;  beneficial  residts,  20,525;  De- 
Haven's,  41;  Kane's,  05;  Itodgers',  108;  Hayes,  i;]2;  Hall's  first,  101;  se<'ond,  109; 
third,  209;  Schwatka's,  .'545;  DeLong's,  ;jO;5;  Hooper's,  428;  Long's,  458;  Kaynor's, 
40:i;  Berry's,  47:J;  Wadlcigh's,485;  table  of,  527. 

Arctic  night,  (hiscribed  by  Hayes,  144;  l)y  DeLong,  :{93. 

Argo,  the  voyage  of  ( 17515),  25. 

Auroras  seen  by  Hall,  2;]9,  241;  by  Mauch,  ;50().  ;509;  by  Powell,  556. 


Baukk,  (.i.  F.,  Midshipman,  lost  at  sea,  112. 

Bachc,  A.  I).,  Superintendent  Coast  Survey,  aids  the  Grinnell  expedition,  60,  65;  endorses 

Arctic  exploration,  526. 
Baker's  death,  76. 
Barrow,  Sir  John,  revives  Arctic  exploration,  .30;  sends  out  a  tablet  in  memory  of  Bcllot, 

57;  endorses  Arctic  exploration,  529. 
Barrow  Point,  meteorological  station  at,  S.'iS. 

Beeehey  Island,  visited  by  Dellaven,  .50;  visit  attempted  by  Kane,  78. 
Bennett,  James  G.,  ptn-chases  the  Pandora,  ;5(J4;  interview  with  Dr.  Petermann,  365;  sends 

Jackson  to  search  for  DeLong,  407;  Bennett  Island  discovered,  400. 
Bering  Strait,  voyage  to  by  Cook,  2iJ. 
Berry's,  R.  M.,  Lieutenant,  search  for  DeLong,  473,  527. 
Bessels,  E.,  sails  with  Hall,  270;  pendulum  observations,  307. 

571 


672 


INDEX. 


Bliss,  .S.  J.,  Acting  Lloiitcnant,  lost  at  N*>a,  112. 

Boats,  the  tlinie,  loavo  Heniiott'a  rsl.ind,  '102;  Scnicnovski  Island  403. 

Hoggs.  W.  H..  I'lirsor  on  the  Vinconnes.  111. 

Monsiill,  Amos.  .sU'tlfjc  i)aily  under  Kane,  TJJ. 

Blaine,  I).  L.,  Captain,  sails  for  relief  of  Hall,  a'.>';  returns  to  New  York,  320. 

Bridge,  W.  K.,  Acting  Lieutenant,  lost  at  sea,  112. 

Brooke,  John  M.,  Lieutenant,  II.  S.  N.,  on  the  Viucennes,  111;  notes  of  the  lo.ss  of  the 

Porpoise,  113;  survey  on  the  .Japanese  eoast,  114;  dee-*  sea  .sounding  apparatus,  IIH; 

notes  at  tSeniiavine  Straits,  123. 
Urooks,  lleiu'y.  second  olHeer  of  the  Hescue.  47. 
Budington,  S.  ().,  sails  with   Hall,  270;  eonunauds  the  Polaris,  298;  fails  to  get  North, 

312;  rescued  by  the  Havenseraig,  321). 


\ 


111''  I   I 


!'. 


Cahot.h,  the  voyages  of  the,  21. 

Capes,   .Mexauder,  S4,  S»3;  Athol,  137;  Beeehey,  ")7;  Constitution,  m;    East,  124;  Karc- 

well,  53;  Independenee,  SH>;  Isabella,  78;  Lieher,  148;  Lisburne,  433;  Hiley,  07;  .Sabine, 

542;  Serdze  Kanien.  377,  451;  Spencer,  50;  Union,  147;  York,  13«,  320. 
Carter,  B.  li..  Pa.ssed  Midshipman.  V.  S.  N.,  on  the  Bescue.  47. 
Chandler,  W.  K.,  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  telegram  to  by  Melville,  413;  orders  to  Danen- 

hovver.  414:  to  llarbcr.  418;  convenes  Helief  Board,  5(53. 
Chapell,  l{.  II.,  assists  Hall,  205. 

Chester,  II.  C.,  Ian<ls  Hall.  200;  sails  on  the  Polaris,  270;  boat  journey,  310. 
Chipp.  C.  \V..   Lieutenant,   U.  S.   N..  Naval   Hecord,  374;   attempts  landing  on  Ihuvild 

Island,  .'!S0;  aiuora  seen  by.  304;  on  sick  list,  307;  connnands  second  cutter,  402; 

.searched  for  by  Melville,  410;  by  Ilarber,  418. 
Clay,  Henry,  Hon.,  presents  the  (Jrinncll  memorial,  4(?. 
Clayton,  .lohn.  Secretary  of  State,  letter  to  Lady  Franklin,  42. 

Coast  survey.  United  States,  aids  Kane's  expedition,  05;  aids  Dr.  Hayes'  expedition,  133. 
Collins.  .Jerome,  .Tr.,  meteorologist  of  the  .Jeannett(\  373. 
Conger  Fort,  .5.37. 
Congress,  United  States,  resolution  for  Dellaven's  expedition,  44;  .appropriations  for  relief 

of  Kane,  80;  for  Uinggold's  exi)edition.  108;  for  Hall's  third  expedition,  200. 
Cook,  .James,  Captain,  Arctic  vuyage,  23;  Antarctic  voyage,  402,  510. 
Cooper,  .1.  Feniniorc,  the,  lOSt. 
Corwin,  revenue  steamer,  the,  sails  in  search  of  the  whalers  and  DeLong,  429;  second 

search.  447;  oflicers  of,  448. 
Currents  of  the  Arctic,  local  only,  308. 

Dam,,  W.  IL,  coast  snrvey  on  the  Ktn-o  Siwo,  307. 

Danenhower,  .!.,  Lieutenant,  U.  S.  N.,  joins  Deljong  at  Havre,  305;  placed  on  sick  list, 
383;  search  for  DeLong.  407;  returns  to  United  States,  408. 

Davenport,  Captain,  IT.  S.  N.,  commands  the  Congress,  275.  ••  ' 

Davis,  .JeiTerson,  objects  to  Arctic  appropriations.  47. 

Davis',  .John,  voy.ages,  22. 

Dellaven,  K.  J.,  Lieutenant,  comni.ands  first  (Jrinnell  expedition,  47;  instructions  of  the 
department  to,  48;  drift  in  Wellington  Channel,  50;  final  report  to  Navy  Department, 
55;  commciidation  by  Secretary  of  Xavy,  01. 

DeKraft,  .1.  C.  P.,  (-ommodore's  chart  of  Bering  Sea  and  North  Pacific,  115. 

DeLong.  G.  W.,  Lieutenant,  U.  S.  N.,  naval  record,  303;  proposes  an  Arctic  exploration, 
304;  chooses  the  Bering  Strait  route,  .305;  errs  in  this,  3(57 ;  sails  from  San  Francisco, 
373;  visits  Cape  Serdze  Kamen  for  Nordenskiiild,  377;  enters  the  pack,  378;  abandons 
theorj',  388;  discovers  Jeannette  anil  Henrietta  Island,  390;  abandons  the  Jeannette, 


it   ■ 


INDEX. 


578 


:M>8;  discovers  Bennett  Island,  40<);  Iiuids  on  Sonionovskl  Island,  40!{;  on  the  Delta, 

409;  last  journal  notes,  411 ;  buried  by  Melville,  414;  his  tomb  visited  by  ilarber,  420; 

brougbt  to  United  States,  427. 
Diligence,  voyage  of  tbe,  2.*). 
Disco,  visited   by   Dcllaven,  T>\);  by  Ilnrtstenc^  rescuing  Kane,  01;  l)y  Uraiue,  ^25;   by 

(Jreer,  .'520;  by  tbe  Neptune,  540;  by  tbe  Y'antic  antl  tbe  I'roteus,  548. 
Dobbin,  {Secretary,  instructions  to  llaristene,  01. 
Dogs,  Eskimo,  diseas*;  of,  25i{, 

KniKKuiNd  (.Foe),  first  met  by  iTall,  170;  seal  hunts,  230;  history  of,  IMO;  accompanies 

Hall,  second  expedition,  2(M>. 
Klder's,  Dr.,  biography  of  Kane,  51. 
Kothcn,  the,  sails  from  New  York,  .'547. 

Erebus  and  Terror,  visit  to  Tasmania,  ;J1 ;  sailing  for  Northwest  Passage,  32. 
Eskimos  or  Innuits,  first  met  by  ll.'ill,  170;  Arinon,  Artooa.  and  Ouela,  210,  212;  Arnion's 

coast  line,  2415;  feasts  of,  215;  games,  210;  Eskimos  of  Etab,  82,  80;  of  the  Northwest 

coast,  440. 
Expeditions,  Arctic,  (Cabot's,  21 ;  Davis',  Hudson's,  and  IJafllhi's,  22;  the  Argoand  Diligence, 

25;  the  Trent,  ill ;  Franklin's,  552;  for  relief  of  Franklin,  tables  of,  :55,  37;  DtsIIaven's, 

41;  Kane's,  05;  Uodgers',   108;  Hayes',   1.'52;  Hall's,  1(52,   l!K>,  200;  Scbwatka's.  .'545; 

Defiong's,  15(53;    Hooper's,  438;    hong's,   4(50;    Uaynor's,   40i{;    lierry's,   473;    Wiid- 

leigh's,  485. 


Fir-McnnowN,  T.  S.,  Lieutenant,  on  the  Vincennes,  and  naval  record,  111;  observa- 
tions, 122. 

Florence,  the  cruise  of,  .5.'55. 

Folger,  W.  .1.,  Secretary  of  Treasury,  tributt^  to  Uodgei  ,  115. 

Foidke  Fort,  Hayes'  winter  quartcsrs,  l.'}7. 

Franklin,  Henjamin,  Dr.,  secmes  a  voyage  for  Northwest  Passage,  25. 

Franklin,  Sir  .Fohn,  early  life,  30;  voyage  on  the  Trent,  31;  journeys  to  North  coast  of 
America,  31;  Last  expedition,  32;  relief  expeditions  for,  35;  moniunent  in  Waterloo 
I'Lace,  30;  in  Westminster  Abbt^y,  ^i):  discovers  Northwest  Passage.  30.  20(5. 

Franklin,  Lady  .).,  letters  to  I'residont  Taylor,  41;  numument  to  Sir  .John  at  Beechey 
Island,  .57;  invites  Kane  to  make  cxplor.ations,  (58. 

Franklin  expedition,  records  found  by  Ilobson,  1(52;  relics  of,  38. 

Frobl;,;. 'v's,  Martin,  shorter  route  to  Cathay,  21;  three  voyages,  18G;  relics  of  brought 
home  by  Hall,  203;  Admiral  Collinson's  voyages  of,  203. 

Fyffe,  J.  P.,  Tiieutenant,  attached  to  the  Jlelief,  01, 


(jKOOKAi'iricAL  Society,  American,  receives  Kane,  60;  receives  Hall,  10,5. 

Gilder,  W.  H.,  visits  the  Kinnepatoos,  .340;  sledge  journey  with  Schwatka,  3.">8;  sums  up 

the  rcsidts  of  the  expedition,  .'5(50. 
(JIacier,   Great,   of  Greenland,  visited  by  Kane,  70,  102;   system  discussed  by  Hayes, 

153. 
(JIassenapp,  observing  party  from  the  Vincennes  located  on,  121. 
(iodhavn,  visited  by  Kane,  89;  by  Hall,  71;  by  tlie  Florence,  536;  by  the  Proteus,  .5;i8. 
(Jraves,  the  three  found  on  Beechey  Island,  .50. 
tJreenland.  Northern  extension  of,  07,  95,  97. 

(Jreer,  J.  A.,  Commander,  sails  for  ndief  of  Hall,  324;  returns  to  New  York,  327. 
Greely's,  A.  W.,  Lieutenant,  expedition  to  Lady  Franklin  Bay,  537. 
Grier,  Wm.,  Fleet  Surgeon  to  exploring  expedition,  111. 
Griffin,  S.  P.,  U.  S.  N.,  commands  the  Kescue,  47. 


674 


INDEX. 


Grlnnell  Land,  discovered  by  DeHaven,  00;  East  coast  of  Grinnell  Land  discovered  by 
Kane,  96;  traced  by  Hayes,  132. 

Grinnell,  Henry,  visit  to  by  Lady  Franklin,  44;  memorial  to  Congress,  45;  equips  the  Ad- 
vance and  the  Rescue,  49;  fits  out  the  Advance  for  Kane,  65;  presentation  of  vase  to 
Kane,  104;  aid  to  Hall's  first  expedition  and  second  expedition,  205. 

Hauehsiiam,  a.  W.,  Lieutenant,  on  the  loss  of  the  Porpoise,  112. 

Hall,  C.  F.,  early  Arctic  studies,  162;  sails  on  his  first  expedition,  167;  at  Cyrus  Field's 
Bay,  174;  discovers  Frobisher's  relics,  182;  returns  to  United  States,  198;  sails  on 
second  expedition,  206;  at  Marble  Island,  209;  captures  a  whale,  233;  at  Fort  Hope, 
235;  first  journey  to  King  William  Land,  244;  to  Igloolik,  250;  to  Cape  Weynton' 
252;  to  Fury  and  Hecla  Strait,  256;  reaches  King  William  Land,  261;  sails  in  the 
Polaris,  270;  last  sledge  journey,  293;  despatch  to  Secretary  of  Navy,  295;  death,  297; 
character,  331;  medal  from  Geographical  Society  of  Paris,  333;  tablet  erected  by 
Narev,  338.  *  . 

Hancock,  the  steamer,  109. 

Harber,  G.  B.,  Lieutenant,  U.  S.  N.,  sent  out  for  the  bodies  of  DeLong  and  his  comrades, 
407;  report  to  Secretary  Chandler,  423;  return  to  the  United  States,  427. 

Hartstene,  H.  J.,  commands  the  relief  ship  for  Dr.  Kane,  87;  naval  record,  91;  brings 
Kane  to  New  York,  91. 

Hayes,  Isaac  L,  Dr.,  surgeon  of  the  Advance,  68;  explorations  with  Kane,  77;  commands 
the  expedition  of  I860,  132;  crosses  Melville  Hay,  136;  winters  at  Port  Fouike,  137; 
reaches  Cape  Lieber,  147;  discussion  on  "the  open  Polar  Sea,"  149;  on  the  Glaciers, 
153;  returns  to  the  United  States,  156;  receives  medals,  158. 

Hazen,  W.  B.,  General,  U.  S.  A.,  co-operates  with  International  Polar  Commission,  534; 
instructions  to  Greely,  538 ;  to  Ray,  552. 

Hendrick,  Hans,  joins  Kane,  69;  journey  with  Hayes,  72;  account  of  Sonntag's  death,  140; 
joins  the  Polaris,  275;  his  own  narrative,  141. 

Henrietta  and  Jeannette  Islands  discovered  by  DeLong,  .395. 

Henry,  Joseph,  Professor,  aids  the  second  Grinnell  expedition,  65;  endorses  Arctic  ex- 
plorations, 526,  528,  .534. 

Herald  Island  visited  by  Kellett,  453;  by  Rodgers,  125;  by  DeLong,  379;  by  Hooper,  453; 
by  Berry,  477. 

Holsteinborg  visited  by  DeHaven,  59;  by  Hall,  168;  by  McClintock,  109. 

Hooper,  C.  L.,  Captain,  Revenue  Marine  Steam  Cutter,  first  cruise,  429. 

Hudson,  W.  L.,  Lieutenant,  commands  the  Peacock,  500;  land  seen  by,  509. 

Hunt,  W.,  Secretary  of  Navy,  convenes  Relief  Board  for  DeLong,  474;  telegram  to  Mel- 
ville, 413;  to  Harber,  408. 

Hydrographic  Office,  United  States,  charts  of  the  Arctic  sea,  115. 


i^i  i'  '' 


Ice  of  the  Arctic  described  by  Hooper,  439;  by  Powell,  555. 
Ice  of  the  Antarctic  described  by  Wilkes,  522. 
Icebergs  met  by  Kane,  62,  70;  by  Hayes,  134;  by  Hall,  172. 
Irving,  Lieutenant,  R.  N.,  grave  discovered  by  Schwatka,  353. 

Jeannette,  the,  purchased  by  Mr.  Bennett,  364;  brought  round  the  Horn,  365;  equipped 
at  San  Francisco,  372;  officers'  roll,  .373;  reaches  Cape  Serdze  Kamen,  377;  in  the 
pack,  .378;  zigzag  course  northwest,  388;  crushed,  398. 

Juniata,  the,  sails  for  relief  of  Hall,  324. 

Kane,  E.  K.,  Dr.,  surgeon  of  the  first  Grinnell  expedition,  47;  naval  record,  48;  surgeon 
to  United  States  Embassy,  China,  51;  in  Mexico,  52;  joins  DeHaven,  47;  notes  of 


INDEX. 


675 


geographical  discovery,  60;  commands  second  Grinnell  expedition,  68;  in  Rensselaer 
Harbor,  73;  explores  the  Great  Glacier,  70,  05;  fails  to  reach  Beechey  Island,  81; 
rescued  by  Ilartstene,  89;  report  to  Secretary  of  Navy,  95;  graphic  sketches,  62,  100, 
102;  receives  medals  from  Koyal  Geographical  Society  and  Paris  Geographical  Society, 
105;   death,  105. 

Kane,  John  P.,  Dr.,  describes  the  navigation  of  Melville  Bay,  92. 

Kennedy  (Channel,  Kane's  exploration,  87. 

Kennedy,  J.  P.,  Secretary  of  the  Navy,  aids  Kane,  07. 

Kern,  E.  W.,  artist,  110. 

Key-low-tik  and  Ken-toon  performers,  217. 

Kislingbury,  F.  F.,  Lieutenant,  of  Franklin  Bay  Expedition,  537,  541. 

Knorr,  E.  R.,  assistant  draughtsman  on  the  Vincennes,  122;  observations  on  the  cruise,  129. 

Kiinilien,  Mr.,  naturalist  of  the  Florence,  536. 

Kuro  Siwo,  the  waning  influence  of,  367. 

Lady  Franklin  Bay,  station  at,  537. 

Lesscps,  M.  Ferd.,  de,  President  Societe  de  Geographic,  address  on  presenting  the  medal 

to  Schwatka,  301. 
Littleton  Island,  visited  by  Kane,  70;  by  Ilartstene,  94;  by  the  Proteus,  541. 
Lockwood,  .James  B.,  Lieutenant  of  Franklin  Bay  expedition,  537,  541,  544. 
Long,  Thomas,  fust  visits  Wrangell  Land,  460. 
Lovell,  W.  J.,  Midshipman,  U.  S.  N.,  attached  to  first  Grinnell  expedition,  47;  to  the 

relief  ship  Rescue,  91. 

Mauky,  M.  F.,  assists  first  Grinnell  expedition,  44;  the  second  expedition,  65;  endorses 
the  object  of  Arctic  expeditions,  525,  .'iOl, 

McClintock,  Sir  Leopold,  R.  N.,  crossing  the  North  water,  54. 

Medals  awarded  to  Kane,  105;  to  Hayes,  158;  to  Hall,  .333;  to  Schwatka,  302. 

Melville,  G.  W.,  Chief  Engineer,  naval  record,  379;  letter  from  St.  Lawrence  Bay,  370; 
boat  journey  to  Herald  Island,  380;  to  Henrietta  Island,  390;  rigs  a  windmill  pump, 
387;  commands  the  whaleboat,  400;  searches  for  DeLong,  413;  for  Lieutenant  Ghipp, 
410;  returns  to  United  States,  418;  receives  a  letter  from  General  Tchernaieflf,  427. 

Melville  Bay,  crossing  of,  by  DeHaven,  54;  by  Kane,  70;  by  Hayes,  130;  by  McClintock,  130. 

Meteorological  Stations,  under  the  International  Commission,  531-535. 

Miller,  Senator,  advocates  first  Grinnell  expedition,  46. 

Morton,  William,  reports  an  open  Polar  sea,  77. 

Mount  WoUaston  and  the  Vigilant,  search  for,  by  Hooper,  432. 

Muir,  John,  Professor,  exploration  of  Herald  Island,  454,  456. 

Murdaugh,  W.,  passed  Midshipman  on  the  Advance,  48. 

Museum,  National,  the,  collections  received  by,  517,  527. 

Musk  ox,  capture  of,  264. 


Nares,  Captain  George,  R.  N.,  commends  Hans,  69. 

Naval  Ofiicers'  Record  of  first  Grinnell  exi)edition  of  relief  ships  for  Kane,  91;  of  the  Vin- 
cennes, 111;  of  DeLong's  expedition,  476;  of  Wilkes',  496. 

Neptune,  cruise  of  the,  545. 

Nichol,  W.  L.,  Assistant  Surgeon  Vincennes,  111. 

Nindemann  and  Noros  sent  forward  by  DeLong,  412. 

North  Water,  the  crossing  of,  54,  136. 

Northwest  Passage,  origin  of  the  problem  of,  21;  attempts  for  by  Cabot,  Verrazani, 
Cartier,  Davis,  Hudson,  and  Baffin,  22;  by  Cook,  23;  by  the  Argo  and  the  Diligence, 
25,  20;  by  Franklin,  33;  by  the  relief  ships,  ;J5. 


576 


INDEX. 


Obbervatory,  Astronomical,  Kane's,  73. 

Osborn,  Admiral,  R.  N.,  commends  Dellaven,  50;  endorses  Arctic  exploration,  409. 


Palmer's  Land,  494. 

Pavy,  O.,  Dr.,  Assistant  Surgeon  of  Station  Lady  Franklin  Hay,  537,  .'i41,  543. 

Peabody,  Mr.,  of  London,  contributes  to  aecond  Grinnell  expedition.  05. 

Pendulum,  Dr.  E.  Bessels',  30(5. 

Penguins,  505. 

Pennsylvania  Historical  Society,  the  Penn  papers,  27. 

I'etiopolovski  visited  by  the  Vincennes,  110. 

Pliipps,  Captain,  voyage,  23. 

Polaris,  the,  sails  from  New  London,  270;  reaches  82°  10',  2S0;  drift  of,  284;  anchored, 

280;  attempts  to  go  north,  312;  carried  from  the  lloe,  310;  abandoned,  327;  sunken,  220. ' 
Polar,  open  sea,  the,  advocated  by  Maury,  40;    reported  seen  by  Morton,  79;    Kane's 

judgment  of  it,  98;  Hayes'  discussion,  149;  Nares',  151. 
Pole,  the  North,  voyages  for,  21,  22,  23,  24,  25,  20,  27,  34. 
Porpoise,  the  brig,  loss  of,  112. 
Potts,  S.  J.,  Jr.,  lost  at  sea,  112. 

Preston,  Secretary  of  Navy,  instructions  to  Dellaven,  48. 
Proteus,  the  voyage  of,  1881,  538;  of  1883,  548;  crushed,  549. 
Proven  visited  by  Dellaven,  .59. 
Putnam,  C.  F.,  U.  S.  N.,  470,  483.  . 


m' 


^m 


Ravenscraio,  the,  rescues  the  Polaris  party,  327. 

Kay,  P.  H.,  Lieutenant,  U.  S.  A.,  station  at  Point  Barrow,  547,  552. 

Kaynor,  G.  W.,  visits  Wrangell  Laud,  404. 

Keily,  W.,  Acting  Lieutenant,  lost  at  sea,  112. 

Keindeer  seen  by  Schwatka,  350. 

Relief  ship  for  Kane,  the  Release  and  the  Arctic  under  Hartstene  and  Simms,  80,  88,  91. 

Rensselaer  Harbor,  the  Advance  moored  in,  71 :  visited  by  Hayes,  72. 

Rescue,  the,  loaned  by  Grinnell  to  DeHaven,  47;  wrecked,  174. 

Resolutions  by  United  States  Congress  for  DeHaven's  expedition,  44;  for  relief  of  Dr. 
Kane,  80. 

Rewards  by  United  States  to  natives  at  St.  Lawrence  Bay,  484 ;  by  the  Czar  to  the  Isprav- 
niks  and  natives  who  assisted  Melville,  427. 

Ringgold,  Cadwalailer,  commands  the  exploring  expedition  of  1853, 108;  returns  to  United 
States  on  sick  leave.  111. 

Robeson,  Geo.,  instructions  to  Hall,  271;  Robeson  Channel  named  by  Hall,  280;  exam- 
ined, 288. 

Rodgers,  John,  Lieutenant,  exploration  in  the  Arctic  Seas,  108,  131;  sails  in  the  Han- 
cock, 109;  succeeds  to  the  command  of  exploring  expedition.  111;  surveys  North  Pacific, 
114;  Northern  cruise,  110;  sails  over  the  reported  position  of  Plover  Island,  125;  ap- 
proaches Wrangell  Land,  128;  returns  to  San  Francisco,  129;  report  not  published, 
114,  131. 

Rodgers,  the  cruise  of,  473;  burned,  482. 

Roe,  F.  A.,  Commodore,  Lieutenant  on  the  Vincennes,  and  naval  record.  111. 

Ross,  James,  Captain,  receives  Wilkes'  chart,  513;  commendation  of  Wilkes,  510. 

Rosse,  Dr.,  surgeon  of  the  Corwin,  notes  of  optical  illusions,  438. 

Russell.  J.  H.,  Captain,  Lieutenant  on  the  Vincennes,  and  naval  record,  111;  boat  land- 
ing at  Glassenapp,  119;  astronomical  observations,  121. 

St.  Johns,  Newfoundland,  visited  by  DeHaven  and  Kane,  08. 


ir-' 


INDEX. 


677 


St.  Lawrence  Island,  visited  by  Rotlgers,  119;  by  Hooper,  430;  and  by  DeLong,  376. 

Schoonmaker,  C,  M.,  Connnander,  brings  the  floe  party  to  Wasbington,  .323. 

Scbott,  C.  A.,  discusses  Kane's  observations,  74;  Hayes',  137. 

Schubert's  death,  70. 

Schuetze,  Master,  sent  out  for  the  bodies  of  DcLong  and  otlicers,  407. 

Schwatka,  F.,  Lieutenant,  sails  from  New  York,  347;  crosses  the  Wager  and  Back  river, 
361;  finds  Hall's  cairn,  352;  finds  Lieutenant  Irvlng's  remains,  353;  explores  King 
William  Land,  354;  sledge  journey  of,  350;  return  to  United  States,  300;  receives  the 
Roquette  medal,  362. 

Scientific  corps  of  the  North  Polar  expedition  of  1871,  of  Wilkes'  expedition,  498. 

Scoresby,  Captain,  reports  of  open  water  in  the  Arctic,  30. 

Sea,  an  open  Polar,  advocated  by  Maury,  49;  by  Kane,  08,  97;  by  Hayes,  149;  denied  by 
Richards,  151 ;  by  Nares,  152. 

Seals,  mode  of  capturing  described  by  Hall,  194;  United  States  revenue  from  Alaska,  500. 

Secretary  of  the  Navy  Preston's  instructions  to  DeHaven,  48. 
"  **        "      Kennedy's  instructions  to  Kane,  08. 

"  "        "      Dobbin's  instructions  to  Hartstene,  Ot. 

"  *'        "      Toucey's  report  on  the  cruise  of  the  Vincennes,  114. 

"  "        "      Thompson's  instructions  to  DeLong,  309. 

"  "        "      Chandler  convenes  Relief  Board,  503. 

Semiavine  Strait,  128. 

Seward,  Senator,  advocates  Grinnell  expedition,  40. 

Sherman,  O.  T.,  meteorologist  of  the  Florence,  630. 

Sherman,  Secretary,  instructions  to  Hooper,  429. 

Shock's,  Commodore,  truss,  382. 

Simms,  C.  C,  Lieutenant,  commands  the  Arctic;  naval  record,  91;  visits  Cape  Alex- 
ander, 93. 

Skin  scraping  by  Sek-Koons,  220. 

Smithsonian  Institution,  aid  to  Kane's  expedition,  67;  publication  of  Kane's  results,  74; 
aid  to  Hayes'  expedition,  133;  publication  of  Dr.  Hayes'  results,  160. 

Smith,  Watson,  Acting  Master  of  the  Advance,  91. 

Societe  de  Geographic  awards  medal  to  Kane,  105;  to  Hayes,  158;  to  Hall,  .333;  to 
Schwatka,  302;  notes  on  meteorological  stations,  532. 

Sonntag,  August,  astronomer  of  Kane's  expedition,  08;  his  observatory,  75;  astronomer 
to  Hayes'  expedition,  133;  death,  138;  Hans'  account  of  it,  140;  his  grave  visited  by 
Bessels  and  Bryan,  142. 

Spoon,  Franklin's,  sent  to  Miss  Cracroft,  o49. 

Stevens,  K.  K.,  Lieutenant,  commands  the  Hancock,  HI;  recommends  further  sur- 
veys, 130. 

Stimpson,  Wm.,  naturalist,  110. 

Stoney,  Lieutenant,  U.  S.  N.,  distributes  rewards  to  the  Tchuktchis,  484. 

Stuart,  J.  H.,  Assistant  Surgeon,  lost  at  sea,  112. 

Stuart,  W.  D.,  draughtsman,  110. 

Tagliabue,  N.  Y.,  contributes  instruments  to  Hayes'  expedition,  133. 
Taylor,  Z.,  President,  message  to  Congress,  43. 

Tchuktchis  described  by  officers  of  the  Vincennes,  120;  by  Hovgaard,  120. 
Tessiussak  (or  Tessuissak)  visited  by  Hayes,  130. 
Thompson,  R.  W.,  Secretary  Navy,  instructions  to  DeLong,  369. 
Tigress,  the  cruise  of,  325. 

Too-koo-litoo  joins  Hall,  176;  accompanies  second  expedition,  206;  loses  her  babe,  246; 
sails  on  the  Polaris,  270;  notice  of,  340. 


578 


INDEX. 


Tyson,  Geo.  £.,  sails  with  Hall,  270;  rescued  by  the  Tigress,  323;  commands  fche  Flor- 
ence, 535. 

Unitkd  States  Centennial  Arctic  exhibit,  104. 

Upernavik  visited  by  DeHaven,  59;  by  Kane,  89;  by  Hayes,  135. 

Van  Wyck,  W.  W.,  lost  at  sea,  112. 

Vincennes,  the  flag-ship  of  Commodore  Ringgold,  108;  Arctic  cruise  under  Rodgers,  114; 

extracts  from  log  book,  120. 
Vreeland,  B.,  Surgeon  of  the  Rescue,  47.  '       ' 

Whalers,  the  pioneers  of  discovery,  404. 

Wildes,  Commander,  U.  S.  N.,  of  the  Yantic,  548,  551. 

Wilkes,  C.  F.,  Lieutenant,  commands  Antarctic  expedition,  495;  officers'  record,  400; 

sails  from  Sydney,  501;  discovers  lanf',  508;  receives  medal  from  Royal  Geographical 

Society,  London,  514;  his  summary  of  the  cruise,  519;  volumes  published  by  Congress, 

521 ;  notes  on  the  ice,  522. 
Williams  and  Haven  aid  Hall,  106. 
Willis,  Hon.  B.  A.,  letter  from  Professor  Henry,  534. 
Wrangell  Land,  seen  by  Wrangell,  120, 124;  by  Rodgers,  128;  by  Hooper,  436;  drifted  past 

by  DeLong,  467;  visited  by  Berry,  478. 
Wright,  C,  botanist  of  the  Antarctic  expedition,  110. 

Zane,  a.  v.,  Passed  Assistant  Engineer  on  the  Rodgers,  477;  accompanies  Putnam,  with 
Hunt  and  Castillo,  483. 


Uifi  Flor- 


gers,  114; 


orU,  41)0; 
graphical 
Congress, 


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